blond labrador puppies

There are some Boxers that appear to be black. However, a solid black coat is not indicative of the breed. So, how can this be? Read more about what markings and patterns can cause a black-like coat. Fawn- What exactly is the color fawn in regard to dogs? This sample is a typical fawn. However, as you will see, fawn is a range of hues. To the right below on mobile is a medium fawn is the standard hue when referring to this terminology. With nice white flash markings on the chest and with black on the muzzle, this Boxer meets color breed standard very well. Brindle - What is brindle? Brindle is not technically a color, it is a pattern. The base is fawn and there is striping. The stripes may be light or dark, and density of the striping can range from thin to thick. Some brindles will look almost fawn and some will appear so dark that they look black. This Boxer shows the standard brindle striping. With white on his chest, paws and ankles and black on the muzzle, this Boxer also meets breed standards perfectly. This is a red fawn Boxer. As you can see, this fawn is darker and deeper than that the common tan fawn; producing a slight shading of red. What a gorgeous coat. This Boxer is a dark brindle. As you can see, with dark brindle the black is over powering the fawn color. The black striping in this pattern is heavy; which would be called a reverse or even a seal. Which simply means that the dog is not officially a solid fawn; he is a mix of colors. Seal - The Boxer dog you see here on the left is Vesta; this color is often referred to as seal. This is a super tight brindle. Siennna, right, is a fawn. Photo courtesy of Nancy Dark Brindle Boxer. Turkish, at 7 years old, photo courtesy of Renata Boxer Dog Flash The white markings on this breed are called "flash". If a Boxer has a moderate amount, one often refers to this as semi-flashy. Those with prominent white on a good portion of the coat are called flashy. No Markings? Not all Boxers have white markings. These are known as plain Boxers, but the term is misleading, as it refers to the genes at work. Read more: Boxers without White Markings Brindle Explanation Brindle one of the colors of this breed is actually a pattern. Stripes running through the coat partial or full is brindling. These are often black hairs, but may be any color that is a darker shade than the hairs that run under it. Depending on the exact color of these brindling pattern stripes, one may refer to a Boxer using one of the following terms listed in order from a very light brindle to a heavy dark striping : Light super light. They were once working dogs on farms and later became popular guard dogs and police dogs. Brown Boxers are medium-sized dogs with a short, smooth coat. They can range in color from light brown to almost black. These dogs are very active and need plenty of exercise. They make great family pets and do well with children. They are one of the most popular breeds in the United States, thanks to their friendly nature and loveable personality. Boxer puppies are known to be very playful, making them great pets for families with children. Brown Boxer puppies are a beautiful breed that will bring joy to any home they enter. Brown Boxer Full Grown Brown Boxer Full Grown A full-grown brown Boxer typically stands between 21 and 25 inches tall at the shoulder and weighs between 50 and 70 pounds. They are known for their powerful, muscular build and their characteristic square-shaped head. The coat of the brown Boxer is short, smooth, and glossy. A full grown Brown Boxer is a massive, beautiful animal. They are very strong, and have an impressive protective instinct. Boxers are known for their loyalty, intelligence, and strength, and the dark brown variety is no exception. Dark brown Boxers are often thought of as being more gentle and easygoing than their lighter-colored cousins. The main difference is in the shade of brown. A light brown Boxer will have a coat that is closer to tan or cream, while a dark brown Boxer will have a coat that is darker, more like chocolate. Brown and White Boxer Brown and White Boxer When you search for photos of Boxers on Google, you will find that one of the most common colors of the breed is brown and white. They often have a sleek, solid brown coat with black mask and white markings. But even if you find this color combination common, brown and white Boxers still look regal, alert, and curious. Their differences depend on the originating country, coat colors, and mixed breeds. Although considered medium- to large-sized dogs at .Their legs are thinner and shorter. Their snout is also thinner that their German counterpart. Like their English Boxer brothers, they are medium- to large-sized dogs with short hair. The difference between English and American Boxers are easily recognizable because of their lack of wrinkles when fully grown. Moreover, their ankles, paws, and knuckles are shaped differently. This makes them stand in a distinct manner. They are known to be friendly, energetic, and intelligent dogs. Brown Boxadors make great family pets and are good with children. They need plenty of exercise and socialization. This hybrid dog is muscular and stocky, with a short coat that is brown in color. The Brown Pitbull Boxer mix is an intelligent and loyal companion, who is also good with children. This breed does require daily exercise, so they are not suited for a sedentary lifestyle. What is the rarest color for Boxers? White may be most controversial color when it comes to Boxers, but seal brindle is considered the rarest. With tight tiger stripes, seal brindle Boxers look almost black. As such, they tend to be more expensive than Boxers of other colors. Are brown Boxer dogs rare? While brown Boxers are not the most common color for the breed, they are not rare. The Boxer breed is thought to have originated in Germany, and the first recorded boxer was born in .Boxers come in a variety of colors including fawn, brindle, and reverse brindle. Fawn is the most common color, followed by brindle. Brown boxers typically have a white chest and markings on their face. Can brown Boxers change color? Do brown Boxers have any health problems? There are no known health problems specifically associated with brown boxers. However, as with all dog breeds, they are susceptible to certain health conditions that can be prevented through regular vet check-ups and vaccinations. These include hip dysplasia, elbow dysplasia, heart disease, and cancer. Some brown boxers may also suffer from allergies or skin problems. How much does a brown Boxer puppy cost? Boxer puppies are one of the most popular breeds and they come in a variety of colors. When considering purchasing a brown boxer puppy, be sure to do your research on reputable breeders. Email address: Leave this field empty if you're human: Popular Posts.

Ian discusses how we should learn to see the world from our dogs perspective and in doing so, how we can better earn their love and trust. Armed with this love and trust, we will form a better relationship and as a result, effective training becomes just that much more effective and enjoyable for both you and your dog. But please, first make sure to use the search facility in the footer of this website and browse our other sections as the subject may have already been covered: Labrador health and care , Labrador behavior , Labrador puppies , infobites and Labrador breed information. External Resources On Labrador Training Although referring to all breeds in general and not purely Labradors, for those of you that love to watch and not read, the series of dog training videos on www. If you like reading books then check out one of our favorite Lab books: The Complete Labrador Handbook. Helps ease anxiety in their new home. We love using Bully Sticks to help divert these unwanted behaviors. For a list of all the supplies we get for our new service dog puppies check out our New Puppy Checklist on the PuppyInTraining. If this is the case,…. How does it feel to be a new puppy parent? You must be chuffed. Take a look at these first few articles. All the ingredients you need for a happy home. But for now, beside your bed is the best place for your puppy to sleep — it will help them feel safe. Puppies like their crates rather cave-like; we suggest covering it with a blanket to block out light, but keep the front open so that they can see outwards. Make sure to make it snug inside with something like a vet bed or a blanket, or why not take it up a notch with a heat pad or hot water bottle to recreate the feeling of their mother. Nothing feels more comforting than that. Before you head to bed, take your puppy out for one last round of loo-going. Set your bedtime at a later time too — midnight sounds about right. Come back calmly, and place your puppy in the crate and turn out the light. Stuff you should know about Sleep Training your Labrador Your puppy will wake up several times in the night and will need the bathroom at least once! Be prepared for not-so-deep sleeps and tired mornings — just for the first few weeks. Having them sleep next to you is only temporary. Consistency is key! As for you, full nights of sleep will start getting closer and closer. Alone Training How can I teach my Labrador puppy to be ok on their own? Start by feeding your puppy in their crate during meal times. If they seem worried by you leaving, stay in view, and just pop right outside their confinement area. Keep it short and sweet: No need to stay away for long, 60 seconds tops will do for now. Repeat: Do this at least once a day to make progress go steady and smoothly. Socialization Exercises To Do this week Letting your Labrador puppy explore the yard Besides the gnomes and questionable yard furniture you may have, letting your puppy explore your own yard is a great and safe way to start showing them the sounds, lights and wonders of the outside world. Exploring different surfaces exercise Make sure that the surfaces you use are safe — nothing too crazy just yet. Gather surfaces such as An oven tray with a small layer of water A piece of astro turf A carpet tile A large piece of tin foil, cardboard or something crinkly PRO TIP: Set up for this exercise in the room your puppy spends most of their time in — it will help them to feel safe and confident. Pop the surfaces out safely on the floor and allow your puppy to investigate them. Nobody has ever enjoyed walking on those. Remember to be patient! Lucky for you — teaching them their name is easy peasy. Say their name in a happy jolly tone and reward with a treat. Repeat five times, 5 and take a break. Practice this 2 or 3 times a day so they get the hang of it. Teach your puppy to sit Teaching your puppy how to sit is a popular one. The first two are far more common though. Keep using this word when they do the right thing, and then follow it up with a food reward. In puppy logic, stinky means yummy. How to do it Start at home; where there are no distractions. Just make sure to shut off Gogglebox in the background. Recall — How to teach our Labrador puppy to come back when called Your puppy already knows their name at this point, so this should be a walk in the park. How to do it Treats and a cheerful voice will be what works here. Do these exercises before meal times so your puppy is more motivated. Practice this 5 times a day and in 3 different places in your house and yard to get them used to coming to you in all settings. How to do it Show your puppy that you have their favorite toy, and start to get them excited about it. When they show interest, throw it a little bit away from you. They will likely follow it and pick it up. If they do, encourage them back to you with your voice, so remember to sound happy! Swap the toy for a treat or another toy and do the process again. Repeat this about 5 times. Instead create more distance and excitement sounds to get them to come to you — spaniels like to show off, so they will likely want to parade what they have! Always swap the toy for something when they have it, this could be a treat or another toy. Resource guarding occurs when we force puppies to give up items or snatch things out of their mouths. For breeds like Labradors who are designed to want to hold things in their mouths, this is pretty important! Resource guarding is when a dog protects a resource from being taken by someone else — dog or human. For some reason, there is a solid list of things puppies find irresistible: Socks. Fact checked by Emily Estep Emily Estep is a biologist and fact checker focused on environmental sciences. Emily has been a proofreader and editor at a variety of online media outlets over the past decade and has reviewed more than articles for The Spruce Pets for factual accuracy. These smart, social dogs are known for their amiable temperaments and their patience. Traditionally bred as hunting dogs, Labs also are among the most popular service dogs, acting as guide dogs for blind people and as therapy dogs. By socializing these dogs early, you can tap into their natural instincts as protectors and companions. Socialize Puppies Labs are natural born people pleasers. Introduce your Lab puppy to as many new people and places as possible during the early months of its life. Keep each new meeting and experience positive and upbeat. Doing this will reinforce your Lab's natural tendency to be friendly and accepting of everyone. If you have young children in the home, be sure to socialize them to the animal as well as the reverse. Although Labs are patient and tolerant, they may still nip at a child who teases or hurts them during play. Make sure everyone knows the boundaries and rules. Exercise Every Day Labrador retrievers are high energy dogs, which is part of the reason they are such great pets for active families. But if Labs aren't given sufficient exercise, they can quickly become bored. This often leads to destructive behavior and other common behavior problems , such as barking, chewing, and digging. It's also why Labs are not well-suited for apartment living; they're too big and too active. Plan on giving your Lab an hour or more of exercise each day. Most Labs love long walks or a game of fetch. These are the perfect way to burn off your Lab's energy. Take advantage of their innate trainability by starting an obedience program as soon as you bring your Labrador retriever home. You can work on basic obedience commands on your own, or sign up for a dog obedience class with a local dog trainer. Classes are a great way to train your Lab while socializing at the same time. Since Labs get to be fairly large and have a tendency to pull on the leash, make walking on a loose leash your first priority. You should also teach your Lab to "come," "drop it," and "fetch," so you can take advantage of its natural tendency for retrieving. Use Positive Reinforcement Training Their eagerness to learn, playfulness, affectionate natures, and their love of treats make Labrador retrievers fantastic candidates for positive reinforcement dog training. Reward their good behaviors with a small treat, a game, or some cuddle time with you. You'll find your Lab is soon offering you the behaviors you like with little prompting. If you decide to use treats in your training, remember that Labs have a tendency to become overweight. Plan on a Long Adolescence One of the most endearing qualities of Labrador retrievers is that they remain very puppy-like long after they've reached adulthood. The downside is that their energy level and tendency to get into mischief continues well into adulthood as well. Therefore, it pays to have behavior management tools handy. The training to become a service animal will vary depending on what the dog will be doing; some are trained to be animal companions to sick children and adults in the hospital, while others are trained to serve as seeing-eye dogs. Others may provide assistance to people with mental illnesses, or behavioral problems. Check the requirements for licensing and training where you live; some places have more strict rules and requirements for service dogs than others. Problems and Proofing Behavior Many Labrador retrievers are happiest and the most well-behaved when they have a job to do. Consider getting involved with a dog sport or training your Lab as a service animal or pet therapy dog. Crate train your Labrador so it doesn't have the run of the house when you're not there to supervise Provide your Lab with a variety of interesting toys and chews to keep it from getting bored. Continue practicing basic obedience commands; it reinforces your Lab's training and provides mental stimulation. No matter what training you decide on, keeping your Lab busy and active is sure to keep one of those famous Lab smiles on its face. Article Sources The Spruce Pets uses only high-quality sources, including peer-reviewed studies, to support the facts within our articles. Read our editorial process to learn more about how we fact-check and keep our content accurate, reliable, and trustworthy. McGreevy, Paul D et al. Labrador retrievers under primary veterinary care in the UK: demography, mortality and disorders. Canine genetics and epidemiology vol. Print Raising a retriever puppy like the pros Your Labrador puppy can seem small and fragile during those first few weeks home from the breeder. Labrador puppies will learn quickly about acceptable and unacceptable behavior those first few weeks, if you, the owner, are willing to set and enforce boundaries. Here is the training you should be working on with your week-old Labrador puppy. About this series of posts This is post three of a step-by-step training and socialization program for Labrador puppies. If you read our first post , you know that this series follows our training of Bubba, a female chocolate lab puppy. Bubba is already sold as one of our Custom Trained Retrievers, so it is our responsibility to raise and train her until she has progressed to the level of training the owner has requested. In this case, Bubba will be with us for almost a year and a half. Training and socialization for week-old Labrador puppy — week three home Your week-old puppy has been with your family for approximately 3 weeks now. This week you should start noticing some bigger changes with your puppy. Here are some of the changes I notice with Bubba. First, she is growing fast! Bubba is almost ready for a new collar already. I have loosened her current collar twice, and there is no more room to expand it. She is also learning a lot. Bubba is also becoming more personable. She likes and has more interest in people now and wants to be petted and scratched more often. Training equipment for Lab puppy We added a couple new training tools this week. But a thicker check cord will also work. We use this check cord for longer outside marks and assistant-marks which I will discuss more in a bit. Puppy sized canvas or light-weight plastic bumpers In week two, we introduced formal retrieving in a hallway in the house. In week three, we move outside with retrieving and introduce assistant throws, so it is helpful to have a few more bumpers. Puppy training that will continue Much of the training I have been working on for the past two weeks with Bubba will continue into this week and beyond. Dog training is not something that has a definitive end-date. For instance, you teach your puppy to SIT and then you must work and practice that command daily or weekly, often for months before the response to the command is solid. But even once the response is solid, you cannot completely stop training. If you stop training, even an older dog, the dog can lose the previous training. So, realize that you are never done working with your dog, especially on obedience training. Some areas that we will continue training Bubba on are: Crate training Bubba is doing great at crate training. She rarely makes any noise while in her crate and settles down quickly after being put into her crate. In the upcoming weeks, we will work towards getting Bubba to enter her crate on command. Looking for more information on crate training? Housebreaking Housebreaking Bubba is going well. We have caught her in a few accidents, but she already seems to understand that she is not supposed to go potty inside. This does not mean that she is done housebreaking. We still expect accidents and will for a few months, so we watch her carefully while she is running around in the house. We also praise her for behaviors like going to the door and tapping the door or whining at the door. These behaviors are rewarded with us taking her outside to go potty. When she goes potty outside, we praise her and then take her right back in. We want her to start understanding that these cue behaviors will get her out to go potty and that is all. Looking for more information on housebreaking? But we will also add a few new ones. We will use this while teaching our puppy the SIT command. It also will be used going forward, anytime we are done working on structured obedience work. We will release the dog from formal work with the OKAY command. But we also use it to mean go to a certain place, such as on a mat or stand. Or, when we want her to go into her crate or kennel. This is an associative command, meaning the puppy will learn the command through our repetition of the word as we tie it to a behavior. But over time, she will make the association and will perform it on her own. This is very important especially if you ever plan on doing more advanced training with your retriever. You will use whatever your dogs name is. A few commands that we will continue to work on this week We will continue to work on obedience commands this week and in the weeks to come. Each week we will expect a little more and better compliance and performance to the command. She is sitting when I put the leash and chain collar on her and when I am taking it off. This week we also added SIT before eating. We only make her SIT for a few seconds; we are working on control. She does not SIT on her own yet, but she will be doing that within a week or so I would guess. Right now, I grab her collar and say SIT. In week three, I have a slightly higher expectation. On walks, I make her walk right beside me for a minute or two using the HEEL command before releasing her and letting her run back and forth a bit. This tells me that she understands the command. Then release her. If every time your puppy comes to you, you put her away or take something away from her, soon your puppy will not want to come to you. You must work hard to make coming to you a good experience for your puppy. So, call her, praise her when she comes and release. Remember: Never use a HERE command if you are not in the position of being able to enforce the command. Make every effort to socialize your puppy You should continue to take steps to socialize your week-old puppy. Anything you can think of. The more things and situations you expose your puppy to, the better your puppy will be equipped to adjust and learn in the future. Learn more about socialization. Hand throws with a puppy bumper you are throwing out a bumper done outside will carry a lot more distraction than retrieves in a hallway. Just pick up the bumper and try again tomorrow. When retrieving outside, make sure you have a long foot rope attached to your puppy. Never try to do retrieves outside without a rope. You will have problems and encourage bad behaviors. You must have a way to get the puppy to come back to you, otherwise you should not be doing retrieves outside. Once your puppy is doing well retrieving outside, you are ready to introduce assistant marks. Introduction to assistant marks The most important thing we worked on with Bubba this week is assistant marks. Assistant marks are retrieves where someone else is throwing the bumper, not you. This teaches your puppy to watch out in the field for a mark. It is very rare that a duck will come from behind you, fly over your head and you shoot it. The ducks and pheasants will be falling in front of you, so the dog must learn to look out and watch for the mark. We start assistant marks on very short grass with white plugs so that the puppy can clearly see the item on the ground. We hold the puppy in a SIT position facing a thrower who is about 20 feet from you. When your puppy picks up the bumper, immediately start calling her back to you. Remember, you should have the foot check cord on her so you can pull the puppy in if needed. Then, take the bumper from her, throw it behind you, make your puppy sit facing the thrower again and repeat. Only do retrieves and then call it a day. Soon your puppy will learn this game and love it. They will start facing the thrower on their own and sitting and waiting for a mark. Final thoughts on training for your week-old Labrador puppy week-old puppies are so eager to learn, so be sure and take advantage of this enthusiasm to teach new concepts and enforce previous ones. Continue to teach your puppy to handle more and more pressure and correction while maintaining a good attitude. Lastly, assistant marks are a big deal. Once a dog learns this part of the game, you can work to increase the distance and complexity of the marks. If you are struggling or need additional help with your new puppy, you can email me ottertailkennels gmail. I would be happy to discuss your goals for your retriever and tell you about the programs I offer. Until next time, happy retrieving. Print Early obedience first step to better hunting dog Labrador puppies start out sweet and innocent. All you want to do is cuddle up with your pup and love them! And you should! But rest assured the innocence will not last. As your pup gains confidence and courage, they will begin to test you in many ways. That is why you must obedience train your Labrador puppy. Early obedience training is key to establishing borders and boundaries that will help your puppy grow, learn, and adjust with a good attitude. There is no shortcut to doing this, just use the name often when you talk to your puppy. Over time, the pup will start to respond to the name. Socialization, while not technically obedience training, is the single most important thing you can teach your puppy during the first few months of life. If you are not sure how to do this, refer to this post. Tools needed to obedience train Labrador puppy You will need a few tools to teach your puppy obedience. The products I recommend I believe are a good value or good investment for anyone working to train or maintain training on their retriever. When possible, I include links to the product. Some of these links may be Amazon or other affiliate links in which I am paid a small commission at no cost to you. All opinions and recommendations are my own. Collar — You should purchase a size appropriate collar for your new puppy. You may have to buy new ones as your dog grows, but it is important for your puppy to get used to wearing a collar early on. A simple nylon adjustable collar works great. Chain collar — If your puppy is more than a few months old, a chain or prong collar is extremely helpful in teaching obedience, but they must be used correctly. For more information on how to put a chain collar on your dog correctly refer to this video. A longer lead, called a check cord, is also useful for teaching HERE and retrieving. You can learn more about that here. Heeling stick optional — While optional, a heeling stick can be especially helpful in teaching basic obedience. Treats — Treats are good for teaching very young puppies. I use treats for pups under 12 weeks of age, but treats should be discontinued rather quickly. When to start basic puppy obedience training Obedience training can and should start within the first couple weeks of having your puppy home. Young puppies are ready and willing to learn and teaching obedience to a young puppy is much easier than teaching it to an older dog. How long should obedience sessions be? Most labs do not enjoy obedience training. For this reason, we aim to keep obedience sessions short, especially if your dog is under 4-months of age. Five to ten minutes of obedience a day can work wonders. Especially if you are consistent. Using rewards or praise to teach obedience Many people like to use treats or rewards for obedience training. And this can work, especially with very young dogs. But for hunting dogs, over the long-term treats can become a problem. We do not want our dogs, or the dogs we train to be obedient only because they are getting a food reward. We want them to be obedient because they understand their place in the family and respect the owners. To get these lasting results, we use praise words and petting and a reward that retrievers live for — retrieves! Well-timed praise is a particularly important part of dog training. A message that it is okay to ignore me the first 9 times! This simply means that after a few minutes of formal obedience training, we release the dog with an OKAY command and that means they can run around and be a dog. We then throw a bumper or plug a for the dog to retriever. We do this a few times with a lot of excitement and allow the dog to retrieve the bumper. For retriever breeds, this is often more effective than a food reward. Be careful that you are not letting your puppy get into bad habits with retrieving. For instance, if your puppy often goes out to retrieve the bumper but then runs away with it, or picks it up and drops it, do not continue doing retrieves. While retrieving is a reward for many Labs, it is not an excuse to engage in behaviors that are not going to be acceptable in the field. If you want to learn more about how to properly teach your Lab to retrieve, check out How can I teach my retriever puppy to fetch? Introduction to leash and nylon collar The very first step for any puppy obedience is to introduce your puppy to a regular collar and leash. This should be done in two separate steps, first the collar and then the leash. Introduce the collar by putting a nylon type collar on your puppy. This is normal and you should not react to it. Introducing the leash is a little different. We like to do this outside. After a few sessions of this introduction, you can start holding the leash by the end and walking with the puppy. When the puppy tries to run or walk away, hold tight to the leash, and just let the puppy get used to the resistance. Some puppies have a hard time with this and will growl or whine and whip themselves around at the pressure, but most will not. Remain calm and after a few sessions the puppy should get used to the resistance of the leash. Do not allow the puppy to pull you around. That will make for some bad behaviors that you will need to correct later. If you cannot control your puppy with just a regular collar and leash, you may need to move to a chain or prong collar to keep control. What commands to teach Lab puppy There are only four basic obedience commands that you need to teach your young puppy. Remember when it comes to commands, less is more. OKAY — this is a release command, basically tells your dog were done training, go be a dog. As your puppy grows and learns more, there are some other commands that may be needed, but for puppies I like to start with just the four above. Dog training requires consistency Before you start with obedience training, I want to make a note about the importance of consistency. Obedience training only works if you are consistent. This means that when you say a command, you expect the puppy to perform the command, and are willing to take steps to make the puppy perform the command. If you do not remain consistent in this expectation, you will confuse your dog and get poor results from your training. You and your family must be consistent! How to start obedience training Lab puppy The first command you want to start teaching your puppy is SIT. This is quite easy to teach with a small puppy but gets a little tougher as they get bigger. Then release the puppy with the OKAY command. Repeat this process several times, then stop. If your puppy is weeks old, you can repeat this training several times a day for only a couple minutes at a time. This will be a two-person job for a little while. The other person will put the food down a few feet from the puppy. Then release the puppy to eat saying OKAY. As the pup learns and understands the command better, you will no longer need a second person to hold the puppy. You must be a little careful here because young puppies do not have great bladder control and making them wait, even a few seconds, can mean the difference between an accident and them doing their business outside. But this is a great way to teach impulse control and manners to your puppy. I do not want to have to fight for a position by the door. You can usually start working on this within a week or two of teaching SIT. A great way to teach this command to young puppies is to use two people and sit in a long hallway, one at each end. Take turns calling your puppy with a HERE command. A toy or treat can often help the process. Let your puppy run around a bit but hold onto the end of the cord. Occasionally, call you puppy with a HERE command. It can be helpful at first to crouch down to encourage the puppy to run towards you. Then release the puppy with an OKAY command. Do this a few more times and repeat daily until the puppy is coming to you without you needing to pull the cord. It is also the command most of our clients struggle with the most. Mostly because they are using the wrong tool for the job. For heeling work, it is important that you work with a chain or prong collar. This will give you more control and stop the pulling and surging that many people struggle with. Using a chain or prong collar and a six-foot leash, start walking your puppy at your side. If your puppy is young, be sure to use a puppy chain collar which is smaller than chain collars for adult dogs. And make sure that you are putting it on correctly! An alternate tool to a chain collar and leash is the Wonder or Command Lead. These work great for teaching HEEL. As you start walking use gently tugs on the chain collar with the command HERE to keep your puppy at your side. If your puppy surges or pulls ahead, simply make a degree turn and start walking the other direction giving a sharp, upward tug on the chain collar and saying HEEL several times until the dog is back in a heeling position. Many of our clients have told us they never left their driveway the first few days! But if you are patient and consistent, your dog will quickly learn that if they want to go for a walk, they need to stay at your side. If you want to learn and progress in more obedience work, check out these obedience drills for retrievers. Final thoughts on how to teach your lab puppy obedience Teaching your puppy obedience may take a lot of patience, time and work, but it is such an important thing to do. You will never regret the time! A well-mannered dog is such a joy to be around both in the home and in the field. How to obedience train Labrador puppy. Labrador Retriever pups are working dogs. This means they live to please you for a treat. The more you engage them with different puppy training behaviors the happier they will be. Of course, Labs will be Labs, and this means that dogs do dog things unless they are trained to follow your expectations. Potty training your puppy is just the beginning of you making clear expectations for your Lab. Puppy training from long leash training to potty training, to not nipping is discussed in greater detail along with clear, easy to follow videos at www. But we will give you an expert training tip summary below. For this reason, you need to become an expert on puppy training. Contact us for a discount on the Puppy Trained Right positive reinforcement training program. Expose your puppy to as many different people and situations possible. Teach dog to dog manners when required. Use Positive Reinforcement. Allow for Play with Other Puppies. Play with other Lab Puppies not only allows your pup to get some exercise it is a form of puppy socialization. Bond with your Puppy. Once a strong bond is formed your Lab Puppy will want to please you even more. Potty Train Right Away. Learn how Dogs Learn. Training a Lab puppy is easy if you understand how to go about it. Give your Lab Puppy Play time to Explore. Labs need this as part of their natural development. Spend more time with your puppy when young. This is the time when your expectations should be clearly outlined and can decrease as she gets older. Begin Training day 1. This happens weather or not you intend it to. Every action and reaction is something your puppy uses to form new habits. So ignoring them jumping up as an 8 week old puppy is training them to jump up and will be much more difficult to un-train once they are 70 lbs. Relax and make learning fun. Your pup needs you happy and enjoying yourself! Use Positive Training Methods because they work. This means reward what you desire. Ensure most Experiences are Positive. Imagine a training session of No, No, No, No! Expose them to as Many Human Situations possible. One cause is that there was not adequate socialization with different men. Be Patient. You are building an amazing K9 personality. The window is between 8 and 20 weeks old. Make the most of it. The better your Lab is socialized the happier they will be. Anxiety in dogs comes from many things. The more things your dog is comfortable with the less chance for anxiety and therefore the happier they are. Prepare yourself, your family and your home before your puppy comes home. It is too late once you meet your puppy as simply interacting with her is training. Allow for Safe Experiences both in the home and outside. Seek professional trainers to help guide you when faced with a problem. Be consistent. Clear expectations are easiest to learn. Focus on Guiding not controlling. Best Start Training or Training Classes are beneficial for both you and your puppy. Expect Success. We tend to move in the direction we believe we will travel. Reward the Behaviors you want to see even something as simple as 4 paws on the ground if you are trying to train your Lab not to jump up on you. Become Well informed. You are teaching a skill like reading that takes clear expectations and builds upon last session. Lab Puppies need constant supervision either human, a crate, a fenced area or a baby gate across a doorway. Encourage a soft mouth. Keep your training up or it will be forgotten. Begin Walking on a Loose Leash Right away. This is always easier for your Lab when they are 12 lbs not 70lbs. Change direction before the leash tightens so they are followers not leaders. This is much easier to train before it happens than correct. Allow alone time for your Lab. Know when to end a training session. End training before your puppy quits. Make time for a few shorter training Sessions. Three fifteen minute sessions are better than one 45 min one. Teach your Lab to respond to their name. Teach your Labrador basic obedience before tricks-come, sit, stay, down, leave it. Have all humans learn the commands and be consistent. Ignore undesirable behaviors. Ignoring includes not saying no, bad dog, touching your dog or making eye contact. Find rewards that your Retriever loves and use them when you have breakthrough training moments. Adjust your expectations as your Lab puppy matures, the older more experienced the higher the expectation. Set Realistic Expectations. Minimize distractions when you begin training. Be aware of your Body Language, Labradors pick up cues from you. Be aware of your leash tension. A tight leash says anxiety from the handler. Know when to get Help .Have fun! Understand that Labs do Lab things. Make them work for food and treats. Exercise your Retriever properly for both intensity and duration. Learn some exercise games Labs love. Give lots of repetition. Stop before they get bored. Establish a Pattern by Praising. Redirect undesired behavior. Accept partial actions at first and gradually increase your expectations. When treats end Verbal treats and chin scratches rule. They will know. Enjoy your well balanced purebred Lab puppy for many years. Purebred Lab Retrievers, are they easier to train? The answer to that is definitely maybe! Not all purebreds are bred for intelligence. For example, if a Labrador Retriever breeder chooses to breed their dogs for a certain look then they may overlook intelligence as one of the important characteristics in order to get a specific Lab look. We however breed for intelligence, health and temperament. So in our case, yes, our Purebred Lab Puppies are easier to train than many because we choose the parents and their puppies specifically for their smarts!

Subscribe You deserve to come home to a wagging tail and a furry bundle full of excitement. As that bundle grows, so will their unconditional love for you. As any dog lover will attest, pets fill a special part of our hearts that nothing else can. At Allies Pet Corner, we help you find the perfect pooch for you. With puppies for sale, Rochester NY continues to fawn over the selection and sheer energy these pups have to offer. Learn more about the pups available for adoption today or visit our Rochester storefront and see for yourself. Dogs are loving, loyal, and always happy to see you at the end of the day, filling a place in your heart like only a dog can. From bulldogs and poodles to Yorkies and cocker spaniels, we work with ethical and licensed breeders from across the state and bring them to a central location in Rochester, NY so you can find the perfect addition to your family. Why Choose a Puppy in Rochester? Rochester NY is the perfect place to find a puppy for adoption, providing you with a wide selection of different breeds from licensed and locally sourced breeders. Allies Pet Corner, located within Marketplace Mall is your matchmaker for the perfect addition to your family. Visit our storefront today to see the puppies available for adoption, or browse the pictures on our website online. USDA regulated breeders regularly have their premises visited by licensed veterinarians, and inspected by the state to ensure they are adhering to all regulations, and ensuring a standard of cleanliness for their facilities, and adequate space and appropriate exercise for their dogs. These regulatory standards aim to not only ensure the health of all puppies but also their parents. These responsible breeding standards make a significant difference in both the personality and physical health of the puppies, dramatically increasing the chances of a positive experience with the puppy after adoption. Allies Pet Corner in Rochester NY is dedicated to only supporting ethical and licensed breeders who follow the regulatory system and provide adequate care for both the puppies and parents. Puppy Breeds for Everyone Whether you are coming into our Rochester NY store for a companion for yourself, or if you are looking for an addition to a family, puppies are a wonderful choice that can bring so much joy to a home. Forbes At Allies Pet Corner, we have a wide range of breeds available, provided by local and licensed breeders in the state of New York. We are the matchmaker helping you make the perfect choice for a lifelong companion. Bulldog Puppies in New York Bulldog puppies are some of the most loving breeds you can have in your family. Dependable and predictable, the bulldog is a wonderful family pet and loving to children. People-oriented as a breed, they actively solicit human attention and have one of the most unique looks of all dogs. Whether you are looking for American bulldogs, English bulldogs, or French bulldogs, we can help match you with the perfect pooch. These puppies are the perfect mix of genuine Labrador affection with the poodle-like look that everyone loves. With a unique coat and an adorable amount of tail-wagging, these puppies will steal your heart. Cavapoo Puppies For loving companionship, few breeds compare to the smart, cuddlesome, and playful Cavapoo, who are the popular, heart-melting offspring of a Cavalier King Charles spaniel and a miniature or toy poodle. A friendly social butterfly, Cavapoos are gentle with people and other pets, and they love to be where you are all the time! A Cavapoo is a terrific pup for first-time dog owners, families in search of an adorable playmate for children, or seniors who want an endearing companion. Adopt an adorable cavapoo today through Allies Pet Corner. Keeping Your Puppy Healthy and Happy Establishing a standard of care is critical, especially when it comes to the health of a living puppy. They may not look as cute and squishable anymore, but their love for you only deepens as they grow. In keeping them healthy and happy, you are responsible for ensuring they have the right diet, they go to all their veterinary checkups, and they get enough activity during the day. Daily enrichment is also an important factor. We stand behind our ethical sourcing and the attention to care before they are even put up for adoption. All puppies are given a wellness checkup by a licensed veterinarian, and you are provided with a health guarantee for up to six months on any congenital issues, and two weeks on viruses or diseases. Find your Rochester NY Puppy Today Are you looking for a furry addition to your family who will shower you with love and puppy kisses? We help you find pups that are the right fit for you, all sourced from resoonsible breeders to ensure they remain as healthy as possible throughout their life. Welcoming a new puppy into your home is an exciting time filled with joy, cuddles, and a few inevitable challenges. One of the most common questions new puppy owners ask is, "When can puppies go outside? Table of Contents Easiest Dog to Take Care of: Top 10 Breeds for a Happy Home Do you ever dream about having a furry best friend who loves to play fetch, gives the warmest cuddles, and greets you with the happiest tail wags every time you come home? A friend who is not just any dog, but the easiest dog to take care of? We know, it sounds like a dream come true, right? But we also understand that bringing a new puppy home is a big step. It's like adding a new member to your family, a little brother or sister.All French Bulldog Insights French Bulldog Breed Info If you're seeking an adorable companion with a charmingly squashed face, an easygoing personality, and a distinct penchant for lounging on the couch, the French Bulldog could just be your perfect match. With their signature bat ears and expressive eyes, French Bulldogs, or "Frenchies" as they are lovingly known, have captured the hearts of many dog lovers around the globe, consistently ranking among the most popular breeds. Renowned for their easy maintenance and the ability to thrive in apartment living, French Bulldogs are a city dweller's delight. Their small size, typically weighing under 28 pounds, makes them perfectly suited to compact urban spaces. However, their charming personalities and heartwarming companionship are universally loved, irrespective of city or countryside living. This breed's laid-back nature does not mean they're devoid of fun and play. On the contrary, French Bulldogs can be quite playful and are known for their often comical and entertaining antics, which only further endears them to their owners. Their affectionate demeanor, combined with a remarkably low barking tendency, makes them a joy to have around the house. French Bulldogs are sturdy, compact, and stocky, with a powerful muscular build that contradicts their small size. They have a smooth coat that comes in a variety of colors, from fawn and brindle to white and grey. Their facial expressions are human-like, and they're known to "talk" using a complex system of yawns, yips, and gargles. However, owning a French Bulldog does come with responsibilities. Their brachycephalic short-nosed nature makes them prone to certain health issues and less tolerant of extreme temperatures. Despite their muscular appearance, they are not the best swimmers, and care should be taken around bodies of water. View Our Available Puppies! They are also known as F1b pups-meaning a 2nd generation Beabull puppy. We usually have a few Unique Colored Beabull Puppies! In each litter of beabull pups, we are usually blessed with a few unique Lilac or Lilac Merle colored puppies in each litter. These puppies are unique and highly sought after. Our adult beabulls typically weigh between pounds once they are adults. They usually reach an average height of inches at the shoulders. The life expectancy of a beabull is normally years of age. Our second-generation beabulls are usually smaller in size than a purebred English Bulldog and have a lot of added benefits and genetic advantages over registered English bulldogs. They usually have a longer muzzle that allows them to breathe better than the snub nose of the bulldog. Giving your beabull regular baths will help keep their coats clean and shiny. So if you live near East Rochester New York and are looking for a healthy and beautiful beabull puppy then check out are available pups now by Clicking Here. Below are some beabull pups that have been adopted.

He is beautiful, loving, funny, and smart, and comes from a strong and healthy lineage. Marcellus was wonderful and supportive throughout the whole process. We love Buckeye Golden Retrievers so much! Marcellus is very responsive and professional! The facility is very clean and cozy. I would recommend Buckeye a million times over! Our Charlie girl is smart, cute, and such a joy in our lives! He is a spirited, loving, and playful boy who has brought so much joy to us all. I knew we were going to get a great puppy from the first time I spoke with them. Thank you so much! The 1 year health guarantee covers any major genetic defects such as a heart murmur. It does not cover treatable health issues. The remaining balance is due at pickup. We find great satisfaction in raising healthy, happy Goldens and placing them in your loving home! One of the most popular breeds in the United States, Golden Retrievers are eager to please and are great with children and other dogs. Additionally, Goldens are intelligent and skilled in whatever they do, whether serving as a therapy dog, aiding search-and-rescue, or being a devoted companion. Max Max is our handsome boy, an imported Jr Champion from Ukraine. Top of the line genetics and champion bloodlines make him an incredible addition to our breeding program. Max is intelligent and friendly, complementing his incredible physique and beautiful white coat! Max is available for stud service to qualified females. Skye comes from a long line of champions and is genetic tested clear. Skye has a happy go lucky personality and is a wonderful mother to her beautiful little snow white babies! She is truly a stunning European Golden Retriever! This mama is really great with children and other dogs and has been a wonderful asset to our breeding program. We kept two of her girls Maple and Bella to continue her incredible bloodline. Zoey loves nothing more than exercising and getting belly scratches! Use tab to navigate through the menu items. Golden Retrievers of Foxwater Farm Hi! I'm Mary English Cream Golden Retrievers For my husband and me, golden's have been near and dear to our hearts since and we've been breeding them since .That same year we began our search for a family dog. In the age before the internet, we conducted our search through conversations with other dog owners and veterinarians; as well as researching AKC literature on different dog breeds. We were looking for a laid-back, easily trainable, social dog that would be good with small children. The Golden Retriever appeared to be the perfect choice. We visited breeders and soon came home with our very first fluffy furry puppy, a Golden Retriever we named Joshua. The Golden Retriever turned out to be the most perfect choice! Since that day we have always had Goldens in our life. For the last 40 years we have been advocates for this breed and its beauty inside and out. We actively work to create the healthiest genetic line of Golden Retriever. Foxwater Farm is located just outside of London, Ohio. Our picturesque acre property is bordered by Oak Run and overlooks a small pond that has been great for fishing. The property also houses multiple mini tree orchards, an old Christmas tree farm, and seasonal gardens. We are so blessed to have dogs from different parts of the world in our current Golden Retriever family lines. We continue to keep a healthy line of dogs that are easily trainable as therapy dogs, capable of passing the Canine Good Citizen programs with ease and proven competitive in dog competitions such as Agility, Disc, Rally and Obedience. Additionally, we are proud to announce that one of our puppies has become an International Champion in the competition ring.

We are in-home breeders with long-term, ethical breeding practices. We partner with each other to serve the United States with excellent, low-tempered, family dogs that are blocky and stunningly beautiful. Our Breeding Program We are not a puppy mill. We are a family business. Bill and Rita live outside Pittsburgh, PA and are retired couple who enjoy our acre hobby farm and go to great lengths to ensure that our parent dogs and puppies are treated with the best care. We are small, professional hobby breeders and always strive to protect and improve the breed. Our interview process ensures that families are able to provide a good home and environment for our puppies. We stand behind our puppies and offer a 2 year health guarantee and have many happy customers that have ongoing relationships with us. They are carefully socialized every day with the ENS Super Dog Protocol , along with lots of love and kisses from all ages of children and adults. We feed the highest quality food, and our doggies enjoy being in a home where they are cared for all day long. Our dogs are family dogs that sleep in our home. They all are highly trained, groomed, exercised, and socialized. Breeders VS. The sad truth is that many pet store purchased pups actually come from puppy mills. Basically, there is zero authenticity with pet stores. When it comes to adopting any animal from a pet store, there is an increased risk of unforeseen health or genetic problems. You also cultivate a life-long relationship with the breeder, meaning support is available to you anytime you may need it. With My Golden Retriever Puppies, you have the option to come and visit both the puppy and the breeder in person! Golden Retrievers are an adaptable breed, meaning they are better at adapting to seasonal changes and various types of climate than certain other breeds. Goldens sport a double-coat, which ensures that these sweet pups are able to tolerate slightly colder temperatures than their friends from other breeds. Your pup deserves better than that, which is why here at My Golden Retriever Puppies, we ensure high-quality care is taken of your pet at all times. We even have all types of golden retrievers for sale! At My Golden Retriever Puppies, we pride ourselves on our golden retriever puppy price being fair and affordable for high quality puppies. Location Information for Pittsburgh Customers Our home office is located in Ohio, but we understand that long-distance travel can be inconvenient. If you prefer to meet a breeder in person, they may be able to offer private visits at their home. Of course! Here at My Golden Retriever Puppies, we value family and authenticity, which is why we always guarantee our pups through our 2-year genetic health guarantee. Like adopting a Golden Retriever from a pet store, there is an increased risk when adopting a pup from a rescue center or shelter as well. For example, pups purchased through a shelter or rescue center are far less likely to come with the kinds of health guarantees and reassurances that a breeder can provide. What type of Golden Retrievers are sold in Pittsburgh? We have some good news! Ready to make your Golden Retriever dreams come true? Take a look at our convenient list of golden retriever puppies for sale. How do I know which breeders to trust in Pittsburgh? Our independent network of trusted breeders have already been pre-screened and verified, so that you can focus on what really matters: choosing your dream puppy. Be the first to know when we have new puppies! All Rights Reserved. We have answers. The cost of Golden Retriever puppies for sale in Pennsylvania and throughout our network are determined based on the unique characteristics and availability of each. For instance, red Golden Retriever puppies for sale in PA, english cream Golden Retriever puppies for sale in PA, or white golden retriever puppies for sale in PA may be priced differently than puppies with more standard coloring. Other factors include sex, breeder experience, size, and temperament. We are confident we can match you with the right Golden Retriever breeders in PA! Does your network of breeders and businesses transport out of state? Yes, all of the breeders and companies we work with are able to safely transport your new pup to any major airport or the continental 48 states for you to pick up. Do you have reputable Golden Retriever breeders in PA near me? Absolutely, we do have Golden Retriever breeders PA within our network. All of the Golden Retriever puppies in PA are with breeders and businesses who have all been carefully screened and agreed to our Breeder Pledge. How do you screen breeders? We are committed to only working with highly experienced and ethical breeders and businesses who are trusted experts. We go above and beyond just trying to sell you a puppy, and provide a proprietary MatchMaking service to find the right puppy for a puppy match made in heaven. If you connect with a local breeder or company, you are able to drive to visit or pick up your potential new puppy! Our network of breeders and companies have a large range of puppies, ranging from multiple colors to purebred and mixed puppies. We created our unique MatchMaker experience to make a hassle free and fun way for families and owners just like you to find a puppy who will fit into their lifestyle and be a lifelong best friend. We use our questionnaire to find out exactly what you need in a new member of the family and then pair you with breeders and companies who have your perfect pooch! Is Uptown Puppies trustworthy? We hold ourselves to the highest standards of quality customer satisfaction and above board businesses practices and ethics.

Although a playful pup sounds endearing, consider how many games of fetch or tag you want to play each day, and whether you have kids or other dogs who can stand in as playmates for the dog. Click here for more information on this characteristic Goldendoodle Overview Also known as the Groodle, the Goldendoodle ranges in size from small to large, depending on the variant of Poodle that the Golden Retriever is crossed with. Originally bred as a larger alternative to the already popular designer breed known as the Cockapoo, the Goldendoodle has proven to be an excellent family dog. Goldendoodles have achieved success as guide dogs, service dogs, therapy dogs, and sniffer dogs one study tested their success at sniffing out peanuts in foods for owners with nut allergies. Goldendoodles have also done well in agility. The Goldendoodle is an affectionate and gentle dog that has gained popularity since he was first developed in s. Goldendoodles are usually highly social and get along well with everyone. Goldendoodles should not live outside or in a kennel, however, since they thrive when they are in contact with the people they love. Goldendoodles can be very easy to train and are a good match for first-time or timid owners. The best way to avoid any destructive behavior is to crate them and to provide toys and treats to keep them busy throughout the day. Goldendoodles are considered to be non- to light shedders and may be a good match for people with allergies. They do require weekly or biweekly brushing , and many owners opt to have them clipped. They have become popular quickly, and their star is still rising. They make excellent family dogs and provide gentle, intelligent companionship throughout their lifetimes. The Goldendoodle is the result of Poodle to Golden Retriever breedings. So far there are very few multigenerational breedings crosses between two Goldendoodles. The Goldendoodle is considered to be a non- to light shedder, but he requires regular grooming and clipping. If the coat is kept short, it should be clipped every six to eight weeks and brushed every few weeks. If the coat is kept in its natural state, it should be brushed once every week or two. He may not bark even if someone knocks on the door. He does much better in a home with a fenced yard. The Goldendoodle requires about 20 to 30 minutes of daily exercise. Being a wonderful family companion, the Goldendoodle generally gets along well with children and does well with other dogs and family pets. The Goldendoodle is a very social dog who should not live away from his family. The Goldendoodle can suffer from separation anxiety if left for long periods at a time. The Goldendoodle may make an excellent companion to people with allergies. To get a healthy dog, never buy a puppy from an irresponsible breeder, puppy mill, or pet store. Breeding began in the s, after both the Cockapoo and the Labradoodle gained footholds. The fact that the Goldendoodle is still a fairly young cross means that most pups are the result of first-generation breeding. That is, most are Golden Retriever and Poodle mixes; as of yet, breeding rarely occurs between pairs of Goldendoodles. Despite the fact that the Goldendoodle has gained some popularity, especially in Australia, there is still no breed club or registry in existence. There are, however, several online communities for the Goldendoodle lover and owner. Goldendoodle Size Goldendoodles vary in size. These dogs tend to range in size from 13 to 20 inches in height and 15 to 35 pounds in weight. The average height for a Small Standard Goldendoodle is 17 to 20 inches; the weight is 40 to 50 pounds. The Large Standard Goldendoodle averages 20 to 24 inches in height and weighs 50 to 90 pounds. Goldendoodle Personality The Goldendoodle has not become popular for lack of good reason. His positive personality traits are numerous — he endears himself to everyone he meets with his friendly, intelligent, accepting nature. He is loyal and, with proper training, can be highly obedient. He does have a playful side and can be mischievous if the mood hits. Temperament is affected by a number of factors, including heredity, training , and socialization. Puppies with nice temperaments are curious and playful, willing to approach people and be held by them. Meeting siblings or other relatives of the parents is also helpful for evaluating what a puppy will be like when he grows up. Socialization helps ensure that your Goldendoodle puppy grows up to be a well-rounded dog. Enrolling him in a puppy kindergarten class is a great start. Inviting visitors over regularly, and taking him to busy parks, stores that allow dogs, and on leisurely strolls to meet neighbors will also help him polish his social skills. Health clearances prove that a dog has been tested for and cleared of a particular condition. You can confirm health clearances by checking the OFA web site offa. Patellar Luxation: Also known as slipped stifles, this is a common problem in small dogs. The patella is the kneecap. Luxation means dislocation of an anatomical part as a bone at a joint. Patellar luxation is when the knee joint often of a hind leg slides in and out of place, causing pain. This can be crippling, although many dogs lead relatively normal lives with this condition. Ear Infections: These can be a problem for Goldendoodles because of their floppy ears, which trap moisture. Check and clean the ears regularly. X-ray screening is the most certain way to diagnose the problem. Either way, arthritis can develop as the dog ages. Elbow Dysplasia: Similar to hip dysplasia, this condition is also a degenerative disease. The disease varies in severity: the dog could simpy develop arthritis, or he could become lame. Treatment includes surgery, weight management, medical management, and anti-inflammatory medication. Progressive Retinal Atrophy PRA : This is a family of eye diseases that involves the gradual deterioration of the retina. Early in the disease, affected dogs become night-blind; they lose sight during the day as the disease progresses. Many affected dogs adapt well to their limited or lost vision, as long as their surroundings remain the same. An affected dog will have symptoms such as nosebleeds, bleeding gums, prolonged bleeding from surgery, prolonged bleeding during heat cycles or after whelping, and occasionally blood in the stool. However, it can be managed with treatments that include cauterizing or suturing injuries, transfusions before surgery, and avoidance of specific medications. Allergies: Allergies are a common ailment in dogs, and the Goldendoodle is no exception. Treatment varies according to the cause and may include dietary restrictions, medications, and environmental changes. Gastric Dilatation-Volvulus: Also called bloat, this is a life-threatening condition that can affect large, deep-chested dogs such as large Goldendoodles. This is especially true if they are fed one large meal a day, eat rapidly, drink large volumes of water after eating, and exercise vigorously after eating. Bloat is more common among older dogs. GDV occurs when the stomach is distended with gas or air and then twists torsion. The dog is unable to belch or vomit to rid himself of the excess air in the stomach, and the normal return of blood to the heart is impeded. Blood pressure drops and the dog goes into shock. Without immediate medical attention, the dog can die. Suspect bloat if your dog has a distended abdomen and is salivating excessively and retching without throwing up. He also may be restless, depressed, lethargic, and weak, with a rapid heart rate. Hypothyroidism: This is a disorder of the thyroid gland. It is treated with medication and diet. Goldendoodle Care The Goldendoodle can be easy to train. He should be trained with positive reinforcement, since harsh corrections could damage his confidence. Socialization is important for all breeds, but for a gentle dog like the Goldendoodle it can be instrumental in discouraging any shyness or timidity. The Goldendoodle has an average energy level and will require daily exercise through walks or a good romp in the back yard. Generally speaking, 20 to 30 minutes of daily exercise will be enough to keep a Goldendoodle from becoming bored. Since the Goldendoodle may grow large, he does require room to move. Goldendoodle Feeding Recommended daily amount: 1 to 4 cups depending on adult size of high-quality dry food a day, divided into multiple meals. NOTE: How much your adult dog eats depends on his size, age, build, metabolism, and activity level. It almost goes without saying that a highly active dog will need more than a couch potato dog. Keep your Goldendoodle in good shape by measuring his food and feeding him twice a day rather than leaving food out all the time. First, look down at him. You should be able to see a waist. Then place your hands on his back, thumbs along the spine, with the fingers spread downward. You should be able to feel but not see his ribs without having to press hard. A Goldendoodle should also be fed several small meals per day instead of one large one, since the Golden Retriever can suffer from gastric torsion, or bloat , a trait that can be easily passed on to any Goldendoodle offspring. For more on feeding your Goldendoodle, see our guidelines for buying the right food , feeding your puppy , and feeding your adult dog. Goldendoodle Coat Color And Grooming The Goldendoodle should have a wavy to curly coat of about two to three inches in length. He has longer hair on the tail, body, ears, and legs legs may be slightly feathered ; the hair on the head and muzzle tends to be shorter. The coat can be black, copper, white, cream, gray, golden, apricot, or red, although golden seems to be the common coat color. Owners generally opt to clip the coat for easier maintenance; but if you choose to leave it in its natural state, expect to brush it about once every week or two. Daily brushing is even better if you want to prevent gum disease and bad breath. Dog toenails have blood vessels in them, and if you cut too far you can cause bleeding — and your dog may not cooperate the next time he sees the nail clippers come out. His ears should be checked weekly for redness or a bad odor, which can indicate an infection. Handle his paws frequently — dogs are touchy about their feet — and look inside his mouth. As you groom, check for sores, rashes, or signs of infection such as redness, tenderness, or inflammation on the skin, in the nose, mouth, and eyes, and on the feet. Eyes should be clear, with no redness or discharge. Your careful weekly exam will help you spot potential health problems early. As with every breed, you should always teach children how to approach and touch dogs, and always supervise any interactions between dogs and young children to prevent any biting or ear or tail pulling on the part of either party. No dog, no matter how friendly, should ever be left unsupervised with a child. Goldendoodle Rescue Groups Goldendoodles are often purchased without any clear understanding of what goes into owning one. There are many Goldendoodles in need of adoption and or fostering. There are a number of rescues that we have not listed. Goldendoodle Breed Organizations Finding a reputable dog breeder is one of the most important decisions you will make when bringing a new dog into your life. Reputable breeders are committed to breeding healthy, well-socialized puppies that will make great companions. They will screen their breeding stock for health problems, socialize their puppies from a young age, and provide you with lifetime support. On the other hand, backyard breeders are more interested in making a profit than in producing healthy, well-adjusted dogs. They may not screen their breeding stock for health problems, and they may not socialize their puppies properly. As a result, puppies from backyard breeders are more likely to have both health and behavioral issues. More Info For You. We also offer Military, disabled and senior discounts! These puppies go home obedience trained for basic commands sit, stay, lay down , leash trained, potty trained, crate trained if desired. These puppies require a deposit to reserve. Perfect puppies go home at 12 weeks old. She is great with kids and other animals and loves to be right by our side. She is smart, loving and eager to please. She is the best mama! She is playful, silly and sweet. She is the very essence of a retriever, she lives to bring you anything you ask for, she is happiest when making her humans happy. Honey is a larger girl, with a buff, honey colored coat. He is a great big goof ball. He loves to bounce around the ranch right by our side in the action. He does like to settle in and pretend he is a lap dog in the evenings though. Doc is a big boy with an apricot color. Graicie St Bernard Gracie is a purebred St. She is the sweetest, most mellow girls you will ever meet! She has the best personality and we just adore her. She is sweet and smart. She loves to snuggle and loves herding. She loves to play tag and other games with the kids in the yard and always makes sure to make her rounds and make sure everyone is present, accounted for and happy. He is a 13lb, miniature poodle, registered from amazing lines. He loves his people and gets so excited to see you, you cannot help but smile. She is energetic, fun, and loving. She loves to play and loves to be held, kissed ans snuggles, she is about 5 pounds now, but will probably be about when she is full grown. We are so excited for Lolly to be a mama in .She is smart as a whip and loves to play. She loves to be held snuggled and loved. She loves people and loves to be loved. She comes from a long OFA family tree. She is loving and goofy. She loves long long hugs and lots of kisses and snuggles. She is going to be a BIG girl. She is a great big love bug. She comes from a line of health tested and OFA tested parents. Our goldendoodle, and golden retriever babies are adopted quickly, so reach out to reserve your furever friend or to ask any questions. Kelley's Goldenspoodlesanddoodles is always available to answer any questions you may have about our puppies. GoldensPoodlesandDoodles gmail. Reviewed by Monica Tarantino Dr. Monica Tarantino, DVM, is a small animal veterinarian and writer with five years of general practice, emergency medicine, and geriatric pet health experience. She is certified as a Fear Free doctor. They are the ultimate combination of good looks, smart wits, and playfulness. Thanks to their poodle heritage, they shed little and are hypoallergenic. Goldendoodles make an ideal family dog due to their extreme friendliness and social personality. They vary in fur types, colors, and size, so there's no doubt that you'll be able to find one that suits you. Read on to learn more about these high-spirited dogs that'll brighten your day! Their adorable name was coined in .While not officially a registered breed of their own, Goldendoodles are considered a "designer breed" because each of their parents is a purebred, but different breeds from each other. Poodles don't shed and are very athletic and intelligent, while Golden Retrievers are lovable and playful family dogs. The mix makes the Goldendoodle a great choice for a lifelong pal, especially for those with mild pet allergies , though no dog is completely hypoallergenic. It should be noted, again, however, that Goldendoodles are a mixed breed, and it's difficult to tell which traits they will eventually inherit. After all, every dog is a unique individual, regardless of breed. Continue to 2 of 11 below. Get a Goldendoodle! It is important to realize, however, that all dogs have dander dead skin cells , saliva, and urine, where allergens exist, so there is no guarantee a Goldendoodle won't set off an allergic reaction. Regular baths and grooming sessions can help reduce the chances of your pooch setting off your allergies. Continue to 3 of 11 below. With a heritage of two retrieving breeds, Goldendoodles love to play fetch, accompany you on a jog, race around the dog park with the other pooches, or tussle with the kids. These dogs are great companions for active families. There are several different sizes of Goldendoodles, depending on whether their poodle half was toy, miniature, or standard, and their weight and size can vary from 15 pounds up to 60 pounds depending on their parents. Most love going on long walks, runs, and hikes with their owners, but of course you'll need to pace yourself if your Goldendoodle is on the small side. If you like bringing your pup along on outdoor adventures, consider the Goldendoodle for your next dog. Continue to 4 of 11 below. This breed loves to socialize and be near their owners; marry that with a penchant for playfulness, and you will have a buddy to enjoy plenty of time together in the park. They love to play with children as well, and a good romp in the backyard is a great way to burn off some energy from both your kids and your pet. And because this is an intelligent breed of dog, you can easily teach your Goldendoodle not just basic commands, such as sit, stay, and come, but also tricks like roll over, shake, and dance. Continue to 5 of 11 below. They also typically enjoy spending time interacting with other pooches at doggy daycamps or the local dog park. But it doesn't have to be all hustle and bustle with your pet. Although this doesn't make them the best watchdogs, their calm demeanor is part of what makes this adorable canine so friendly. Continue to 6 of 11 below. In general, however, they have thick coats that are medium-to-long. Many people choose to have their Goldendoodle trimmed every few weeks, similar to poodles. This is especially helpful if your dog has longer, curlier hair that's prone to tangles. If you prefer to keep your Goldendoodle natural, it's important to brush the coat regularly to remove tangles and debris. Continue to 7 of 11 below. That's not surprising when you consider that both poodles and golden retrievers were originally bred to serve as retrievers for hunters shooting ducks. Your Goldendoodle will be thrilled to join the whole family for summer fun at the beach, lake, or swimming pool, but be sure to provide your pooch with a doggy life vest in open waters, and teach him how to enter and exit a swimming pool by using the steps. But you'll want to stand clear when your Goldendoodle decides to shake off all that water! Continue to 8 of 11 below. They can be orange, cream, dark brown, gray, or black in color, although most are golden. Some Goldendoodles are somewhat darker along their upper body, with lighter hair along their chest and belly. Some are even multiple colors. Aging Goldendoodles can sometimes seem to "fade" a little in color. Continue to 9 of 11 below. While the first of these dogs were bred from golden retrievers and standard poodles, producing fairly large offspring, there was soon demand for smaller versions of this popular canine. Today, there are three basic sizes of Goldendoodle, each depending on whether the poodle parent was a toy, mini, or standard poodle. The mini Goldendoodle is around 15 to 16 inches in height and weighs less than 30 pounds. The medium Goldendoodle, which is the most common size, ranges in height from 16 to 20 inches and can weigh between 30 and 40 pounds. The standard Goldendoodle is the biggest size, with an average height of 22 inches and weight of 50 to 60 pounds. So whatever size dog you prefer, there's a Goldendoodle to fit. Continue to 10 of 11 below. For anyone needing a little cheering up, their happy demeanor will bring an instant smile to anyone's face. Goldendoodles also do well as medical alert dogs, which are service dogs specially trained to alert their owner or even call for help when the dog senses that their person is about to experience a seizure or that a diabetic is suffering from low blood sugar. Standard Goldendoodles can also work as mobility service dogs, which help people with mobility issues stand, walk, or balance better. Continue to 11 of 11 below. Groodles is one, while Doodles is another. This breed of dog is also sometimes referred to as the Goldenpoo. But whatever you call them, the Goldendoodle is an adorable, affectionate, intelligent, and lively breed of dog. These codes refer to the genetic makeup of your dog. How do you trim a Goldendoodle's face? For around the eyes, start with blunt-tipped scissors, gently trimming away the hair above them. Cut at an angle, like a downward V. Since the cut line will be blunt, a pair of thinning shears will help it look shaggier. Next, tackle the beard by brushing your dog's fur downward and creating an oval shape with the blunt-tipped scissors. Again, fluff up anything too blunt with the thinning shears. Then, brush the top upwards and trim away anything too long. Finally, brush her ears and trim away scraggly fur, finishing with the thinning shears. How long does a Goldendoodle live? Like their poodle parents, Goldendoodles are fairly long-lived dogs, with an average lifespan of 10 to 15 years. Available in both the larger standard size and as a smaller miniature, goldendoodles are playful yet gentle dogs that crave human interaction. They do best with daily walks or outdoor play sessions to fill their physical fitness needs and, because both of their parent breeds are friendly and highly intelligent , goldendoodles are ideal for families with small children , first-time dog owners , and as emotional support animals. Appearance Because poodles range in size more than golden retrievers, a goldendoodle's height and weight depend largely on his poodle lineage. Specifically, a standard poodle will result in a full-size goldendoodle, while a miniature poodle parent likely reduces a pup's full-grown stature. Standard doodles can stand more than 21 inches tall and weigh up to pounds. Miniature goldendoodles typically weigh no more than 35 pounds and stand less than 14—17 inches tall. While golden retrievers have coats that stick to the wheat or golden range, a poodle can be one of many colors—this variation also shows up in goldendoodles. While the teddy bear gold hue might be the most popular, breeding can also result in black, white, brown, cream, and red goldendoodles. In very rare cases, a pup bred from multiple generations of doodles will have recessive color traits such as gray, blue, or even be multi-colored. The most common eye color for this breed is brown. As a descendant of the poodle—a popular option for dog owners with allergies—a goldendoodle doesn't shed much , which means they can be a good fit for people who tend to sneeze or itch around pups. For owners who want a big dog that doesn't shed, a doodle that's 75 percent standard poodle and 25 percent golden retriever known as an F1B goldendoodle is a good option. These inherit a curlier poodle coat that's better for those with dog allergies. A goldendoodle can have very curly, poodle-like locks or inherit a more wavy mane from their retriever parent. And despite their allergen-friendly fur, doodles have a double coat that consists of a dense undercoat of short hairs beneath a top coat of longer hairs, called guard hairs. Dogs with this layered fur need regular brushing. Temperament Goldendoodles get their gentle nature from their golden retriever side, making them a wonderful option for families with young children. They're naturally inclined to be careful with infants and toddlers, and will be patient companions for children as they grow up. However, as with any breed, you still need to supervise small kiddos and dogs, and make sure your children learn how to properly interact with pets. As extremely affectionate dogs, they love to socialize and rarely meet a human or fellow animal they don't like—even smaller critters like cats. Instead of wanting to chase, goldendoodles are laid-back and almost bashful. Both poodles and golden retrievers score in the top five of the smartest dog breeds, according to the Goldendoodle Association of North America. So while playful, these pups are obedient with the proper training. They can learn some fun tricks, too. Near the foothills of the Appalachian mountains, Lynne Whitmire has been breeding goldendoodles for over 15 years. The GANA blue ribbon breeder believes the goldendoodle's temperament is one of the best things about them. With such an easygoing attitude, they'll flourish with additional playmates dogs and humans alike. Doodles are also known for loving water; swimming gives them another outlet to get their exercise. While outdoor time is still important, a miniature goldendoodle is more apt to enjoy apartment living than a standard-size doodle. And as long as your pup has been properly trained and socialized, neither the standard or miniature goldendoodles are excessive barkers , so you won't have to worry about any grumpy neighbors. Care Even with little to no shedding, goldendoodles, like all poodles and poodle hybrids, still need consistent grooming to keep their coat healthy. They'll need to see a professional groomer every 6—8 weeks, but won't need much bathing beyond that. Frequent baths can actually cause dry skin, so experts recommend only bathing doodles if they're smelly or dirty. The curlier the coat, the more often they'll need to be brushed. But in general, a goldendoodle needs daily brushing to avoid painful matting. However, if they have a straight coat or a very short hairdo, weekly brushing sessions will be sufficient. A fenced backyard makes exercise easy, but a brisk walk around the neighborhood will also do. Doodles love social interaction with humans and playdates with fellow pups, so they generally shouldn't be left home alone for long periods of time. A lonely or bored goldendoodle can develop separation anxiety and exhibit undesirable behaviors, including digging or barking. Proper socialization and attention should start early and continue throughout the dog's life to ensure good behaviors. Quick to learn and eager to please, these pooches are excellent for first-time dog owners. As with all breeds, they do best with positive reinforcement training and rewarding good behavior with treats. Even a young goldendoodle puppy can learn tricks and obedience through early training and socialization. Health Goldendoodles have a lifespan of 10—15 years, and in general they're very healthy dogs. But, as with all breeds, they can be susceptible to certain health issues. Varying types of cancer can also be passed down from the golden retriever parent, so a health clearance is important to ensure a healthy pup. Consult your veterinarian about warning signs to look out for. Their floppy ears can trap moisture, so owners should clean their dog's ears soon after any water-related activities or bathtime. As with any new puppy, it's important to request a health clearance from the breeder. And all reputable breeders should conduct the appropriate health tests and provide documentation when you buy your goldendoodle puppy. Because this hybrid is so popular , you need to do your research before working with any breeder. As a general rule, avoid breeders who sell multiple mixed breeds, offer to ship puppies, are difficult to contact, or don't let you meet your puppy's parents. In fact, goldendoodles have many similar characteristics to that earlier hybrid. However, goldendoodle coats can be longer and wavier, thanks to their golden retriever genes. Labradoodles, on average, are also slightly larger. Although both types of doodles are very friendly, goldens are generally more enthusiastic about meeting new people. They inherit a social, happy-go-lucky attitude from the golden retriever that differentiates them slightly from their Lab-mix cousins. Labradoodles were created to be guide dogs, and goldendoodles are also commonly used as emotional support animals and therapy dogs. As goldendoodles gained popularity, breeders began taking requests for more variations. They introduced new sizes and traits to please all sorts of dog owners: petites and minis, unique colors, curlier or straighter coats. The goldendoodle may be one of the newest poodle mix crossbreeds, but the breed's popularity is still on the rise. We have Aussies to thank for the growing popularity and the cool name variation. The TV personality and cookbook author has a cream goldendoodle named Gus , who loves to eat her homemade peanut butter dog biscuits. Meet Samson the goldendoodle , who has more than 1 million followers on Instagram. Was this page helpful? Standard Goldendoodles can weigh anywhere between 50 and 90 pounds. Personality The place where the Goldendoodle puppy really excels is its personality. Its breed is known for being simultaneously intelligent and adoring. A Goldendoodle puppy is very sociable, which makes them perfect animals for households with children and other animals or pets, even cats. Just like the Labradoodle, this breed requires correct socialization to ensure they get used to different sights, sounds and smells during puppyhood. This means taking your Goldendoodle to plenty of doggy-friendly parks so they can meet canine friends and introducing them to other people. Our Goldendoodle puppies for sale are fully trained Doodles, so you can focus on the fun bits, like bonding, eating food and playing. These dogs prefer to live in a house with a gated backyard where they can get regular exercise breaks. Do They Like to Play? Goldendoodle Puppy Training These clever dogs are perfect for first-time dog owners because Goldendoodles love to please and take great pride in learning new skills. Are Goldendoodles Intelligent? Both of its poodle and golden retriever parent breeds are known for their intelligence and trainability, and Goldendoodles have inherited this breed trait. This means the person training a Goldendoodle needs to be strong-willed, firm and consistent — but never harsh or aggressive. Much like a poodle, Doodles are sensitive dogs, and positive reinforcement is a must to bring out the best in them. How Obedient Are They? Goldendoodle pups adore human company, and making their pet parents happy brings them genuine satisfaction. As such, correct puppy training produces a highly obedient and loyal adult Goldendoodle. Older adults, people with disabilities and individuals with neurodevelopmental disorders can benefit significantly from the warmth and sweetness of these adorable Goldendoodle pups. Are They Easy to Train? Doodle puppies can be mischievous and cheeky, but aggression is practically unheard of. So as long as you treat them with the same gentle respect they offer, a Goldendoodle is one of the easiest dog breeds to train. Goldendoodles have loads of energy and require regular exercise to maintain a healthy weight and calm temperament. A Goldendoodle need a moderately high level of outdoor activity — usually a minimum of 30 minutes, but ideally one hour, of moderate to vigorous exercise per day will keep Goldendoodle puppies at their best. Unlike puppy mills, all good puppy and dog breeders provide a certificate that shows health clearances. At Pride and Prejudoodles, our tests cover common health conditions. As such, you have peace of mind when purchasing your new puppy from us. How Long Do Goldendoodles Live? Goldendoodles live for between 10 and 15 years. We hope you found our guide informative. Please contact us with any other questions you have about our Goldendoodle puppies for adoption. Vocality level 2 in 5 Disclaimer: While the characteristics mentioned here may frequently represent this breed, dogs are individuals whose personalities and appearances will vary. Please consult the adoption organization for details on a specific pet. Temperament As a crossbreed, it is hard to say for sure which behavioral and personality traits each Doodle will possess. Overall, pet parents report that Goldendoodles are friendly family dogs who do well with children and other pets. Good puppy socialization is key to their development as a well-rounded adult dog. They have an average to high energy level and require roughly minutes of exercise daily. Due to their loyal, people-pleasing nature, Goldendoodles can be easy to train, and if done properly with positive reinforcement, can be extremely obedient pets. They prefer room to run around, so would thrive with a fenced yard. They may not be the greatest choice for apartment dwellers, unless you are big on daily outdoor exercise. Upkeep With an average-to-high energy level, Goldendoodles do best with more active families who can dedicate time to playing games with them. They thrive on socialization and playtime with other dogs to help to burn their energy. Mental stimulation in the form of agility or ongoing training will help keep their adventurous spirit content. If not properly occupied, they can sometimes become destructive -- another reason why they might not be the best match for a small apartment. Goldendoodles have a double coated fur that can be quite dense. Some have fur that can be left in its natural state but you should still expect to brush it out roughly once per week. Others may have fur that will require more upkeep, including professional grooming every weeks the more dense the fur, the more it will trap dirt. Otherwise, bathe your Goldendoodle as needed, brush teeth regularly, and trim nails times per month. Be sure to check and clean their ears to remove any buildup and avoid infections! The mix of the two did not appear in America until the s, but has been gaining popularity as people value a type of dog that could possess the low dander levels of a Poodle and the intelligence and happy personality of a Golden Retriever. The Goldendoodle was originally offered as a larger alternative to the Cockapoo, one of the early intentional crossbreeds. Because Goldendoodles are so popular, they certainly can be found for adoption in animal shelters and Doodle-specific rescues. If sharing your home with a Doodle is your dream, be sure to consider adoption! Related Content. Therefore, a chocolate Standard Poodle and a cream Golden Retriever can produce a Goldendoodle that is either chocolate, cream, or somewhere in between the two colors. Poodles vs. Goldendoodles: Coat Type As I mentioned previously, Standard Poodles are so highly valued today for their hypoallergenic coats, and this is why so many Doodle designer breeds are available today. Poodle Standard Poodles have a very curly coat that is almost human-coarse hair-like in its texture. The coat needs to be brushed at least three times a week to prevent the coarse curls from matting and becoming compacted, which is incredibly painful for the dog. Standard Poodles will always have a coarse, curly coat. Poodles are considered the most hypoallergenic dog. This is because their coats barely shed at all, so they catch any of the dander that they produce. Incidentally, Poodles also produce much less dander than other dog breeds. Like Poodles, Goldendoodles need to be brushed at least three times a week because their fur can mat and become compacted in the same way. Unlike Poodles, Goldendoodles shed lightly seasonally. However, the shedding is very manageable with frequent brushing and bathing. An overall temperament and lifestyle match between human and dog means the relationship between the two will be more solid, and there will be less cause for headaches and less of a chance that the dog will be surrendered to the authorities or abandoned. Poodle The Standard Poodle is fairly aloof and prideful. They like their alone time and do not do well with a family that is constantly looking for affection. They can become tired of small children or other animals that constantly seek their companionship throughout the day. Goldendoodle Goldendoodles combine the grandeur of the Standard Poodle with the goofiness of the Golden Retriever, and what results is a personality like no other! The Goldendoodle is fun-loving, always up for cuddles, and a huge people pleaser who has almost endless patience for other animals and children. The Goldendoodle is very dependent on its owner and can suffer from separation anxiety if left alone for long periods of the day. Goldendoodles: Price Poodles and Goldendoodles will share similar costs during their lifetimes in terms of grooming, feeding , vet bills, and general upkeep. However, they do differ in initial purchase price for a few reasons. FAQs About Poodles vs. Goldendoodles Are Standard Poodles or Goldendoodles easier to train? Standard Poodles and Goldendoodles are both highly intelligent dogs. Untrained Standard Poodles are large dogs that can become very destructive and aggressive towards other animals as a fear reaction. Training and socialization for Standard Poodles and Goldendoodles is essential in maintaining their relationship with you and the world. Do Standard Poodles or Goldendoodles need more exercise? Standard Poodles and Goldendoodles need to have a minimum of 45 minutes of exercise a day. Are Poodles really hypoallergenic? This is because all dogs produce dander. Dander is essentially old skin cells that come off the skin as new cells are formed underneath and dirt. Poodles happen to produce a very little amount of dander. Rolling Over On Poodles vs. Goldendoodles… In reviewing Poodles vs. Goldendoodles, we can see that the main differences that will impact your life are the different temperaments of the two dog breeds and their price. The other differences between the two are superficial ones to do with looks and will ultimately come down to your personal preference. To sum up, Poodles and Goldendoodles differ in their: Origin.

We may earn money or products from the companies mentioned in this post through our independently chosen links, which earn us a commission. Check my five tips to understand what you should expect from a Lab, and how to offer her everything she needs to thrive. When you use it, start from the back of her head and towards the tail. Use it at the end of the brushing session. You can find more information on this topic in this video: 2. They need between 45 and 90 minutes of exercise each day. Five minutes of exercise for each month of their age should be enough until the age of 12 months. These dogs enjoy running, swimming, or playing fetch. You should measure all meals, including treats Labrador Retrievers are prone to obesity, as some of them suffer a genetic mutation that makes them feel hungry all the time. Divide the food across a number of meals: from 2 to 4 months - four meals a day; from 4 to 12 months - three meals a day. After the age of 12 months, a Lab should eat between 2 and 2. Normally, female Labs weigh between 55 and 70 pounds kg and males between 65 and 80 pounds kg. So if your Labrador is larger, you should reduce the food intake and discuss the option of a diet with your veterinarian. Start training early As Labradors have nice temperaments, many dog owners tend to stop training right after housebreaking. I think this is risky, especially when you have to deal with a large breed. Labs are very intelligent dogs and respond well to obedience training. Teaching your dog to answer your commands will not only keep her busy and mentally stimulated, but it can also help you keep your dog safe outdoors. Labradors need resistant dog toys It seems that this breed has the highest chances of chewing something and landing in the ER, according to veterinarians. A suitable toy for a Lab has the following characteristics: is big and specially-designed for large breeds; is made from a durable material, such as rubber; is not stuffed with dangerous materials, such as polystyrene balls. Keeping your dog busy is the best way to keep chewing under control. Labradors are working dogs, so they need to have a job to stay happy. Organize training sessions or hide objects and get her to find them for you. When you leave your dog alone, crate her to limit her access to places where she can harm herself, then make sure she gets plenty of exercise on your return. How to choose a reputable breeder Labradors are so popular that sometimes the number of puppies is too small and many people feel tempted to breed dogs just for profit. Irresponsible breeding can cause a series of health and temperament problems, so buying a puppy in the closest pet shop can be risky. If you want a good dog, buy her from a registered breeder. These dogs are adorable, loyal and always willing to spend time with their owners. What do you think about Labradors? Do you have one or would you like to get one? Tell us more about this breed in a comment below. About Alexandra Animalso I was raised to be a dog person. My first Shepherd grew up as I did and wanted to be where I was at all times. I got my second dog as a 16th birthday present, and her loyalty for me was just as strong as my first. I hope that my contribution to Animalso will help others find dogs who give them that same unconditional love. Leave a Reply Your email address will not be published. A wire mesh crate should be sized for an adult labrador to stand and turn around. I put a blanket over the crate leaving the only the front open. This creates a den as their own space and the labrador puppies love this. If you want to relocate the labrador pup to be with you, watching tv, you can easily relocate the ex pen. Both of these items are available off the shelf at good pet shops. Crate training is essential and the maturing labrador never grows out of their. We take a mature lab each time we visit her family in Noosa. The adult lab still sleeps in the closed crate without an ex pen. Of course, the mature labrador will not soil a crate in 8hrs. It actually cardboard, marketed as corrugated paper. With an 8wk old, I always place a 1. You should not go on extended walks with a Labrador or any large breed puppy for 14mths, until their growth plates are set. And you should carry your labrador puppy up and down stairs to guard again injury and unnecessary join load until 8mths and then only on leash. You will use twice the volume. And your waste clean up will be doubled and so will you veterinary costs. This means that you will train the 8 - 32 week old labrador pup for 3 min, 3 times a day at each feed time. Three feeds per day is a volume issue not so much a regularity issue. A pup cannot consume the daily necessary quota in less than 3 feeds. You can reduce the number of feeds to 2 at about 24wks and to 1 feed at approx 10 months. During this period, expose your pup to 1. People, 2. Vehicles, 3. New surrounding, 4. Other vaccinated dogs until you pup has had its 2nd vacc at 12 wks. The second imprint period is suggested to be at 1yr. Rather, withdraw and re-expose them to the same thing again. Puppy preschool immediately is great for the new handler and for the education, training and socialisation of your labrador puppy. Dog obedience training from approx 7mths of age is essential for the cognitive well being of all dogs. Digging is a sign of boredom and your labrador is needing mental stimulation. Regularly tether you labrador from day 1 on a light chain leash. They will chew cloth and leather leashes and this gets expensive. You should be aware that a labrador that free ranges for long periods of time makes its own rules. In my opinion, a dog is an outside creature that comes in side. I always restrain a puppy when they are inside. They are compulsive chewers. It not a question of if they will chew, only when and what. Play tug and let them win 7 out of 10 times. Their teeth draw my blood. Labrador puppies sleep hrs per day. Your labrador pup will invariably soil the water who knows why??? Labrador pups make all kinds of peculiar movements, breath and spasms at unforeseen times and particularly while sleeping. Scouring diahorea is generally the only issue to be concerned about. Puppies can dehydrate quickly if they scour. Immediate attention from a vet and this will not be an issue. Remember that a labrador puppy will not rehydrate with water. They will need electrolytes. How does it feel to be a new puppy parent? You must be chuffed. Take a look at these first few articles. All the ingredients you need for a happy home. But for now, beside your bed is the best place for your puppy to sleep — it will help them feel safe. Puppies like their crates rather cave-like; we suggest covering it with a blanket to block out light, but keep the front open so that they can see outwards. Make sure to make it snug inside with something like a vet bed or a blanket, or why not take it up a notch with a heat pad or hot water bottle to recreate the feeling of their mother. Nothing feels more comforting than that. Before you head to bed, take your puppy out for one last round of loo-going. Set your bedtime at a later time too — midnight sounds about right. Come back calmly, and place your puppy in the crate and turn out the light. Stuff you should know about Sleep Training your Labrador Your puppy will wake up several times in the night and will need the bathroom at least once! Be prepared for not-so-deep sleeps and tired mornings — just for the first few weeks. Having them sleep next to you is only temporary. Consistency is key! As for you, full nights of sleep will start getting closer and closer. Alone Training How can I teach my Labrador puppy to be ok on their own? Start by feeding your puppy in their crate during meal times. If they seem worried by you leaving, stay in view, and just pop right outside their confinement area. Keep it short and sweet: No need to stay away for long, 60 seconds tops will do for now. Repeat: Do this at least once a day to make progress go steady and smoothly. Socialization Exercises To Do this week Letting your Labrador puppy explore the yard Besides the gnomes and questionable yard furniture you may have, letting your puppy explore your own yard is a great and safe way to start showing them the sounds, lights and wonders of the outside world. Exploring different surfaces exercise Make sure that the surfaces you use are safe — nothing too crazy just yet. Gather surfaces such as An oven tray with a small layer of water A piece of astro turf A carpet tile A large piece of tin foil, cardboard or something crinkly PRO TIP: Set up for this exercise in the room your puppy spends most of their time in — it will help them to feel safe and confident. Pop the surfaces out safely on the floor and allow your puppy to investigate them. Nobody has ever enjoyed walking on those. Remember to be patient! Lucky for you — teaching them their name is easy peasy. Say their name in a happy jolly tone and reward with a treat. Repeat five times, 5 and take a break. Practice this 2 or 3 times a day so they get the hang of it. Teach your puppy to sit Teaching your puppy how to sit is a popular one. The first two are far more common though. Keep using this word when they do the right thing, and then follow it up with a food reward. In puppy logic, stinky means yummy. How to do it Start at home; where there are no distractions. Just make sure to shut off Gogglebox in the background. Recall — How to teach our Labrador puppy to come back when called Your puppy already knows their name at this point, so this should be a walk in the park. How to do it Treats and a cheerful voice will be what works here. Do these exercises before meal times so your puppy is more motivated. Practice this 5 times a day and in 3 different places in your house and yard to get them used to coming to you in all settings. How to do it Show your puppy that you have their favorite toy, and start to get them excited about it. When they show interest, throw it a little bit away from you. They will likely follow it and pick it up. If they do, encourage them back to you with your voice, so remember to sound happy! Swap the toy for a treat or another toy and do the process again. Repeat this about 5 times. Instead create more distance and excitement sounds to get them to come to you — spaniels like to show off, so they will likely want to parade what they have! Always swap the toy for something when they have it, this could be a treat or another toy. Resource guarding occurs when we force puppies to give up items or snatch things out of their mouths. For breeds like Labradors who are designed to want to hold things in their mouths, this is pretty important! Resource guarding is when a dog protects a resource from being taken by someone else — dog or human. For some reason, there is a solid list of things puppies find irresistible: Socks. The Labrador is a highly capable and versatile working breed as well as the number one most popular family dog in UK and several other countries around the world! But despite being a common pet dog, they are an extraordinary breed with a fascinating history and a breed profile full of superlatives. This includes fabulous intelligence and trainability, adaptability, friendliness and trust towards people and other animals, motivation for work, endurance, and a phenomenal sense of smell. This makes the Labrador a breed of choice for many canine jobs, for example, medical scent detection, military and security force scent detection, search and rescue, a service or assistance dog for the disabled and people with a broad range of medical conditions, an autism support dog, hunting dog and even a therapy dog! Adorable Labradors can make wonderful family dogs, but only if their needs are met. They have a really goofy and playful nature which is heartwarming for many people! And, their trusting nature and eagerness to please people means they fit in easily into a family and human society as a whole. They tend to be bouncy and full of energy, which makes for a great company on countryside walks, jogging and recreational dog sports. Their boundless affection makes them particularly lovable, which is highly important for a family dog. Labradors: What To Consider As with all dogs, there are some things that you absolutely must consider before you add a Labrador into your home. And, Labrador training is always going to be a big essential. With all of their amazing energy, intelligence, enthusiasm for work, and highly social nature, also comes a list of requirements for potential owners. Unfulfilled and untrained Labradors are likely to find themselves a job or another outlet to release that energy and frustration. This can lead to destructive or inappropriate behaviours and a dog who is simply out of control. Typical challenges can include pulling on the lead and lunging towards anything that interests them, boisterous and over-excited behaviour including jumping up, grabbing the lead in their mouth, crashing into people and objects, stealing food and other items, and running off to greet people and dogs instead of coming back when called. But what do you need to do to make sure that they grow up into perfect family pets? Check out our top tips below to find out more about training this sweet and fun-loving breed. Socialise them early! Early appropriate socialisation is key with this breed. This includes all kinds of places, people, animals and sensations that will be a normal part of their life by the time he or she is 12 weeks old. Self-control is a big part of Labrador training Teaching your dog self-control is a really important skill for a Labrador, or any dog really, to have. You can help teach them self-control through impulse control games and real-life situations. This will help with teaching them basic doggie manners such as how to politely greet people and other dogs with all four paws on the ground, how to wait for their food bowl or their lead to be clipped on, how to pass through the door politely without dashing through, and so on. All those skills require mental self-control and focus despite distractions, which is essential for an excitable and boisterous dog. Lead etiquette is always needed Teach your Labrador to walk politely on a lead from as early an age as possible. For a Labrador, the world is full of fascinating scents, posts and tufts of grass that must me scent-marked immediately, especially for males, dogs and people that he or she is absolutely delighted to see including strangers , and objects that must be immediately investigated. This makes it hard for them to remember that there is a person on the other end of the lead. But with lots of practice, patience and a smart way of rewarding that works for them, keeping an eye on their human counterpart can become a habit for your dog that will last a lifetime! Once this happens, training will become a lot easier. Even better, the whole family can get involved and play with the dog. Recall is vital Teach your dog a reliable, fast and enthusiastic recall as soon as possible. This is so that no matter what other fascinating things are going on, they will always turn on a penny and run like the wind back towards you! Having a great recall is not only useful for your day to day lives, but it is also a safety concern. If there is a potentially dangerous situation for your pup ahead, you can always recall your dog back to you and keep them safe! Their mental wellbeing and happiness is important too! So, make sure to provide plenty of exercise and mental stimulation, including walks, swims, and sniffing opportunities. So, make sure that you provide them with something appropriate to do if you have to leave them alone. Food dispenser toys, puzzle games for dogs and appropriate raw bones can keep your dog busy and calm, and your furniture and shoes whole! Keep health and wellbeing in mind Always try your best to keep your dog slim and fit. Labradors have a tendency to become overweight because of their keen appetite. You can help to keep your dog lean by feeding them the right amount of nutritious food for their age and activity level, using their normal food as training treats wherever possible so that they can work for their food, and a versatile and appropriate exercise regime that you really stick to! And their appearance! And, regular health checks at the vet are important for any dog, to ensure that they are well and any potential health issues are caught early. Labrador Training Video We love our Labrador customers who come into Royvon for training or boarding! They really do make the perfect pets, especially with a bit of training to help them along their journey. Check out this video featuring Archie the Labrador to see more about what a well-trained Labrador can look like! Here at Royvon, we are passionate about training dogs of all breeds, and this includes Labrador training! Many owners come to us for a whole variety of reasons. Or, they may simply just not have the time to train their dog as they wish, and want to leave it up to the professionals. Whatever the reason, there is no shame in getting dog training help! In fact, you will be amazed at the difference it can make and how well behaved your dog will be, especially for problem pets who are hard to handle! We offer everything from group puppy classes to residential training tailored to aggressive or anxious dogs. Simply visit our website today! Enjoyed this post about Labrador training and want to learn about more dog breeds? We think you will enjoy this post about Rottweilers, or this one about Shiba Inus! Print We recently brought home Bubba, a female chocolate lab puppy. Bubba is already sold as one of our Custom Trained Retrievers, so it is our responsibility to train her and raise her until she has progressed to the level of training the owner has requested. That means Bubba will be with for almost a year and a half. We train one or two of these puppies each year, and over the years we have gotten pretty good at it. We also train adult dogs for hunting and competition, so we see a lot of dogs come into our program. Dogs that have each been raised differently. There are some definite training tips that can help you help your lab grow up to be the best version of himself. Training and socialization for very young Labrador puppies — week one The first week of a puppy being away from its litter is very stressful for the puppy. Most often, the first two days, the puppy will sleep a lot! The pup is adjusting to all the changes, and they need time to do that. After the first couple days you may notice a spike of energy. This is your sign that the puppy is adjusting well and is ready to be exposed to a few more things. Labrador puppy training that first week home Here are the things we work on during week one. A nylon adjustable one is usually best since puppies grow quickly. It often takes the puppy a few days to adjust to having a collar on. Intro crate We introduce our puppies to a crate on day one. Literally the day we bring them home. Most puppies will cry, bark or howl while in the crate the first few or many times. Ignore it, it does not hurt the puppy at all. Always wait until the puppy settles down and is quiet, even if that quiet only lasts for just a minute or two. Learn more about crate training. Intro to housebreaking Another day one lesson and one that will last for a few weeks or months. We introduce housebreaking day one by allowing the puppy to run around an enclosed area under close supervision. If your puppy then goes potty outside, great! The thing to remember about housebreaking, is that your puppy should never be allowed to roam the house or a room without supervision. The only way to housebreak a dog is for them to get caught in the middle of an accident. That is how they learn that what they are doing is not right. Learn more about housebreaking. Intro leash We introduce a leash to our puppies around day three of being home. But once they start getting more energy and get more inquisitive, we use a Flexi-lead attached to the nylon collar to take the puppy outside. This accomplishes two goals. The gentle tugs on the leash and pressure when the puppy strains against the leash are great training for handling pressure as they get older. Intro to pressure and correction The last thing we introduce to our new puppy during the first week home is pressure and correction. This is an often-missing element to training that can severely handicap a dog that you want to be a hunting companion or competition dog. The kind of pressure I am talking about is very mild such as saying NO to the puppy when they are chewing up your shoes or scratching through the carpet. This is the way mama dogs carry their puppies and it does not hurt them at all. This does not hurt the puppy; it is exactly what a mama dog does to teach her puppies. Learn more about introducing pressure and correction. Commands to start using that first week home The first week there are some commands we start using so that the puppy will associate the words we use with actions. Puppies play and explore with their mouths, and often they will think it is great fun to bite your hands and feet. If this does not curb the behavior, I grab her lower jaw, wrapping her gums around her teeth and squeeze. I have found this to be very effective, especially if you start this the first week you have the puppy home. The longer you wait to start, the harder it becomes to stop this behavior. It takes very little pressure to stop a 7-week-old puppy from biting. Learn more about how to stop your Lab puppy from biting you. Off command The OFF command is also started day one. The OFF command is used to stop a puppy or dog from jumping on you. It can also be used to keep a dog off a sofa or other furniture. Starting day one, I gently use my knee to push down the puppy each time they jump on me. I say OFF when I do this. Usually, a gentle push with the knee is all it takes with a very small puppy. They learn this command very quickly. If your puppy is a bit more energetic or stubborn and tries to jump on you despite your gentle pushes, then you may need to use a little more force. Even if you were to knock your puppy backwards onto her back, that is not going to hurt her seriously. But it will likely make a good impression and cause her to think twice before jumping on you again. With jumping, consistency is important. You must knock your puppy off every time she jumps on you. Learn more about how to stop your Lab from jumping on you. We use this as a que when we are taking the puppy outside to go potty. We use this while the puppy is on a leash, and we are pulling them toward us. I only use this command for very young dogs. Your goal is to get the puppy to rest in your arms and not move. But if you keep at it, you will see your dog settle for longer and longer periods of time. Introduction to retrieving Lastly, since all our puppies are retrievers, we start introducing the puppy to retrieving. The first few times are simply throwing a toy a few feet and if the puppy runs out and gets it and comes back to you, great. Then take the item and throw it again. If the puppy does not come back or does not even run out to get the item, then stop for the day. Just let the retrieving develop naturally. Next week we will start more formal retrieving training. Final thoughts on what you should do that first week with your new Labrador puppy As you can see, there is a lot of training that you can do with your seven- or eight-week-old puppy. And while you can wait for training, your puppy is ready and able to learn quickly right now. I will be posting weekly on the training we are doing with Bubba, so you can get a week-by-week snapshot of how we raise and train a puppy up to be a excellent, responsive hunting or competition dog as well as a well-mannered family dog. If you are struggling or need additional help with your new puppy, you can email me ottertailkennels gmail. I would be happy to discuss your goals for your retriever and tell you about the programs I offer. Until next time, happy retrieving. Learning to be alone Happiness is a Balancing Act Your job is a bit of a balancing act. Keeping your little one happy, while ensuring that he is educated in the ways of our curious human world, and that he learns to behave himself Here are a few tips to help you along the way. This is natural and normal. It makes them feel safe. Puppies also feel safe if they have a den, a place of safety, like the whelping box or nest where they were born, to rest in when they are on their own. But you can hurry that process up by leaving the door open all day and leaving food and nice toys in there for your puppy to find. If you or your children are very excited, your puppy will get excited too. He may get very overexcited, which is when biting can get very out of hand. Of course, there are bound to be times when, despite your best efforts, your puppy gets a little too over-excited. But, learning how to deal with this can help calm things back down. Outdoor Time To Potty I get a lot of questions from people that are struggling with potty training because they are expecting a new puppy to go too long without a wee during the day. Sometimes two or three hours. Some eight week old puppies will empty their bladder in the garden, come indoors and wee again just 15 or 20 minutes later! This is very annoying, but it is a short-lived phase. Restricted Access Many people find it hard to cope with their puppy simply because they are giving him access to too large an area of the family home. He has no chance of learning to be clean if he cannot be watched constantly by a family member and is far more likely to have accidents on carpets, than on hard floors. He will also be constantly in trouble for chewing things he should never have been able to reach. Baby gates are a brilliant way of restricting very small puppies to a fairly small designated part of your home with washable floors. The puppy can then be gradually introduced to more rooms as they mature. The Right Feeding Routines Puppies often have sensitive tummies. Especially in the first few days and weeks in their new home. Most Labrador puppies are greedy and will eat large meals. The quantities on food packet are daily rations and should be divided into at least four portions to begin with. And the result is can be a nasty attack of diarrhea, although of course there are other causes of upset stomaches too! Puppies need to be out and about. There is a small period of time during which puppies can easily accept new experiences. And after which they become fearful of strangers, strange objects, and strange experiences. This unique time slot is called the window for socialization, and it is all but closed before the puppy is 14 weeks old. So you need to get your puppy out and about, meeting all kinds of people, vehicles, shops, machinery, and so on. Positive Reinforcement Leads To Happiness! Nowadays we train dogs using positive reinforcement. Essentially this means with rewards. These rewards can be anything he enjoys, from toys, to food, to simply running around. But puppies need to be shown how to earn rewards the right way. So that we get the right responses from them. It is all too easy to reward your puppy for doing the wrong things. Lots of puppies learn to bark to get attention for example or to jump up to get a stroke. There are lots of games you can play with puppies to help them learn how to earn rewards. Let the puppy know what you like them doing with a marker word like YES and follow it up with a treat. You can start rewarding your puppy like this, for making eye contact with you, right from the very first day. Learn To Be Happy Alone? All companion dogs need to be alone at times. And the best time to learn this skill is when he is small. As soon as your puppy has settled in to his new den, after the first few days it is time to start leaving him alone for short periods of time. Pull up a chair and start by getting the puppy used to being shut in the crate with you next to him. When he is happy to be crated while you are there, you can start leaving him for very short periods of time. Just a few seconds to begin with. Time Off The Leash! Small puppies have a powerful following response — I call this the safety response because they do it to feel safe. If you put and eight week old puppy on the ground and walk away, he will follow you. If you keep your puppy on a leash for the first six months of his life, when you let him off he will no longer have this following reflex, and you will have wasted a great opportunity to establish this good behavior. Check out below for a demonstration, on teaching the puppy recall. So that he can learn to follow in your footsteps as you lead the way in exploring the great wide world. Obviously this needs to be done in a very safe space. Later on when you take your puppy into a more distracting environment, you should attach a trailing line to their harness for safety. If your little one is allowed on the sofa today, he may think he is allowed on the sofa tomorrow. Decide what your rules are, and work out how to achieve them. Find out everything you can about how puppies learn so that you can teach your puppy how to live in our world, with love and kindness. However, a healthy six-month-old labrador will grow significantly in size. Some of them can weigh up to 50 pounds. For a more balanced diet at six months, you can shift from feeding your puppy three smaller meals per day to two meals a day. To counteract this, you can drop the amount of food and gradually increase it. Setting Your Lab Puppy Up for Successful Potty Training Training an animal to control their bladders until you get outside is no different than potty-training for toddlers. In other words, crate training speeds up the potty-training process for your pet. Effective crate training depends on two things: Praising and rewarding your puppy for relieving itself outside. They come to understand this as a desirable behavior. Preventing your puppy from going to the toilet within the home. So, why is using a crate to train your puppy to go outside so effective? Initially, this should be every hour or so. As labs grow older, you can reduce the frequency as they learn to hold and release independently. Step 2: House Training a Lab Puppy Housetraining or potty-training small labs can be, well, frustrating. As a pet owner, there are simple ways to train your puppy to understand ideal behavior quickly. Instead, they simply forget that they should control it. This helps avoid any issues early on. Keep small labrador puppies off the carpet. How to Feed Your Dog for Optimal Growth Feeding your labrador puppy a balanced diet could be an entire guide all on its own. It can feel overwhelming because you do have many options when it comes to feeding your dog. For example, if you work from home, it would be easy to feed your dog homemade dog food. Similarly, you might work a and yet want to reap the health-related benefits of a raw diet. Make sure to speak to your vet first. You do have choices for what to feed your puppy and you can mix and match these. Popular feeding options for any animal include kibble, wet food, raw food, and home-cooked food. Remember, a puppy is still growing, and they need a complete profile of nutrients and minerals to support their development. There are many commercial brands of dry food or kibble to choose from and you can adjust what you buy based on the ingredients. Do your research and find a brand you trust, with as much bioavailable nutritional content as is helpful. These can harm your puppy. In order to maintain good health and prevent simple ailments, your puppy can also benefit from taking a supplement. Some families choose to mix scraps or raw food with kibble to provide moisture and decrease the amount of food versus the calories consumed. Any veterinarian will tell you that a hard and fast rule is not necessarily the type of food but the amount. Obesity is a condition that can lead to many health issues for this breed. Over-exertion, especially for a puppy, is possible. This includes activities like playing fetch or tug and release. However, breeds that worked as a hunting companion for humans love to be active. Again, this goes back to the strengths of the breed. Keeping up with your puppy could be a task-and-a-half, so in the first months of life, you should be keeping them in your backyard or playing with them at home. As they become house trained and get all their vaccinations, you can turn walks into light jogs or runs if you want. In the long-term, exercise will help keep dogs healthy and disease-free. However, early dog training can eliminate common problems with puppy temperament and help make sure that your fur friend is always as friendly and happy as possible through the years. Puppy socialization simply means making your puppy open to and familiar with new experiences. You want to provide stimulation and encounters with experiences that they will probably face as adults. The window of opportunity to make sure your puppy is always a happy and friendly pooch closes around 14 weeks. Pre-Vaccination Lab Puppy Socialization Any veterinarian will tell you that a puppy is all done with their vaccinations after 12 weeks of age. The main point is to keep your puppy away from other dogs who may not yet be vaccinated or the excrement and markings of other animals that could carry data diseases. You can head to an off-leash dog park to allow them to explore and meet other fur friends. You can also take them beyond your backyard to the countryside to enable them to swim or set up obstacle courses and play with them. Another thing that people forget about is spaying or neutering their dogs. Spaying or neutering your dog could help with behavioral issues and can also reduce the onset of certain health conditions. At the same time, spaying or neutering a puppy too early may also lead to health issues. For many people, this is a worthwhile and even enjoyable trade-off. A happy, sociable dog is always the result of consistent training. Training your dog is a significant aspect of their early years. The different stages include: Get it — Using positive reinforcement, trainers will help your dog carry out actions without commands. Teach it — This stage harnesses the progress you made in the previous stages. Your dog now knows the word and the action that goes with it. Proof it — Proofing is where many people get stuck. Your dog will learn to listen and obey commands at this stage even when they are engaged in other things. Maintain it — Consistently using the techniques you learned to keep your dog following the same desirable behavior. All breeds of dogs respond best when you train them. Every labrador retriever relies on their human taking control and showing them how to respond in any situation. You can be sure that if you follow these tips that you will be taking proper care of your new puppy and will be able to make sure that your puppy will live a long and healthy life. Share on. Labrador Retriever pups are working dogs. This means they live to please you for a treat. The more you engage them with different puppy training behaviors the happier they will be. Of course, Labs will be Labs, and this means that dogs do dog things unless they are trained to follow your expectations. Potty training your puppy is just the beginning of you making clear expectations for your Lab. Puppy training from long leash training to potty training, to not nipping is discussed in greater detail along with clear, easy to follow videos at www. But we will give you an expert training tip summary below. For this reason, you need to become an expert on puppy training. Contact us for a discount on the Puppy Trained Right positive reinforcement training program. Expose your puppy to as many different people and situations possible. Teach dog to dog manners when required. Use Positive Reinforcement. Allow for Play with Other Puppies. Play with other Lab Puppies not only allows your pup to get some exercise it is a form of puppy socialization. Bond with your Puppy. Once a strong bond is formed your Lab Puppy will want to please you even more. Potty Train Right Away. Learn how Dogs Learn. Training a Lab puppy is easy if you understand how to go about it. Give your Lab Puppy Play time to Explore. Labs need this as part of their natural development. Spend more time with your puppy when young. This is the time when your expectations should be clearly outlined and can decrease as she gets older. Begin Training day 1. This happens weather or not you intend it to. Every action and reaction is something your puppy uses to form new habits. So ignoring them jumping up as an 8 week old puppy is training them to jump up and will be much more difficult to un-train once they are 70 lbs. Relax and make learning fun. Your pup needs you happy and enjoying yourself! Use Positive Training Methods because they work. This means reward what you desire. Ensure most Experiences are Positive. Imagine a training session of No, No, No, No! Expose them to as Many Human Situations possible. One cause is that there was not adequate socialization with different men. Be Patient. You are building an amazing K9 personality. The window is between 8 and 20 weeks old. Make the most of it. The better your Lab is socialized the happier they will be. Anxiety in dogs comes from many things. The more things your dog is comfortable with the less chance for anxiety and therefore the happier they are. Prepare yourself, your family and your home before your puppy comes home. It is too late once you meet your puppy as simply interacting with her is training. Allow for Safe Experiences both in the home and outside. Seek professional trainers to help guide you when faced with a problem. Be consistent. Clear expectations are easiest to learn. Focus on Guiding not controlling. Best Start Training or Training Classes are beneficial for both you and your puppy. Expect Success. We tend to move in the direction we believe we will travel. Reward the Behaviors you want to see even something as simple as 4 paws on the ground if you are trying to train your Lab not to jump up on you. Become Well informed. You are teaching a skill like reading that takes clear expectations and builds upon last session. Lab Puppies need constant supervision either human, a crate, a fenced area or a baby gate across a doorway. Encourage a soft mouth. Keep your training up or it will be forgotten. Begin Walking on a Loose Leash Right away. This is always easier for your Lab when they are 12 lbs not 70lbs. Change direction before the leash tightens so they are followers not leaders. This is much easier to train before it happens than correct. Allow alone time for your Lab. Know when to end a training session. End training before your puppy quits. Make time for a few shorter training Sessions. Three fifteen minute sessions are better than one 45 min one. Teach your Lab to respond to their name. Teach your Labrador basic obedience before tricks-come, sit, stay, down, leave it. Have all humans learn the commands and be consistent. Ignore undesirable behaviors. Ignoring includes not saying no, bad dog, touching your dog or making eye contact. Find rewards that your Retriever loves and use them when you have breakthrough training moments. Adjust your expectations as your Lab puppy matures, the older more experienced the higher the expectation. Set Realistic Expectations. Minimize distractions when you begin training. Be aware of your Body Language, Labradors pick up cues from you. Be aware of your leash tension. A tight leash says anxiety from the handler. Know when to get Help .Have fun! Understand that Labs do Lab things. Make them work for food and treats. Exercise your Retriever properly for both intensity and duration. Learn some exercise games Labs love. Give lots of repetition. Stop before they get bored. Establish a Pattern by Praising. Redirect undesired behavior. Accept partial actions at first and gradually increase your expectations. When treats end Verbal treats and chin scratches rule. They will know. Enjoy your well balanced purebred Lab puppy for many years. Purebred Lab Retrievers, are they easier to train? The answer to that is definitely maybe! Not all purebreds are bred for intelligence. For example, if a Labrador Retriever breeder chooses to breed their dogs for a certain look then they may overlook intelligence as one of the important characteristics in order to get a specific Lab look. We however breed for intelligence, health and temperament. So in our case, yes, our Purebred Lab Puppies are easier to train than many because we choose the parents and their puppies specifically for their smarts!

The pugs unintentionally create chaos when they go to the symphony. The pugs look after a puppy who turns out to be a BIG handful. The pugs push Bob's office chair to a theater to see his favorite play. The pups go looking for a neighborhood kid's missing costume. When the pups find a doggie toy that isn't theirs, they go on a mission to find its owner. Bingo and Rolly look for the first snowflake of the season while helping other animals prepare for winter. Bingo, Rolly and A. When a squirrel in the attic keeps distracting Bob, the pugs make it their mission to return it to its family. To change Bob's fortune, the pugs travel to Ireland to bring home some good luck. Bob's mother's pet-sits the pugs while Bob's at work. When Bob brings home a pet fish, the dogs try to play puppy games with it. Their thrill-seeking appetites take them on exhilarating adventures throughout the neighborhood and around the globe. Whether helping their owner, Bob, or assisting an animal friend-in-need, the pugs are always there to lend a paw. Puppy Dog Pals chronicles the adventures of Bingo and Rolly, the spirited siblings who go on exciting adventures around their backyard and around the world while their owner, Bob, is at work. The series, which debuts today at a. We recently spoke with Williams pictured below right , who also serves as consulting producer and writer, as well as the voice of Bob; and executive producer Sean Coyle pictured below left Mickey Mouse Clubhouse about what you should know before you watch. First and foremost, Puppy Dog Pals is about friendship and family. For example, we have an episode coming up later in the season where the Mona Lisa goes missing, and Bingo and Rolly deduce that the greatest painting in the world must be hanging on the greatest wall in the world—so the puppies figure out that they need to go to the Great Wall of China to look for the Mona Lisa. The puppies were always, always going to be pugs. Kids will travel the world with the puppies. Episodes are set in Italy, England, Paris, and China, to name just a few of the locales the globetrotting dogs will visit. Coyle reveals that one of his favorite parts of the recording process is watching actors portray animals. Sniffing, growling, licking, and slurping—in character, no less—is harder than it sounds. Families can enjoy Puppy Dog Pals together. The stories contain messages about friendship, creativity, problem-solving, togetherness, and adventure, designed for younger kids, but Coyle—a father of two young children himself—thinks that the rest of the family will watch right alongside them.

Do Father dogs know their puppies? By two weeks of age, they should be alert and trying to stand. By three weeks, they should be trying to climb out of their nest or whelping box. By four weeks, all the puppies should be able to walk, run, and play. How long do puppies stay in whelping box? During the first 3 weeks most dams like to be in a warm secluded area, not in the family living area. Pups remain contently in their whelping box for the first 20 days of their life. How do you transition a puppy from a whelping box? By the time the puppies are weeks old, the mother should have an area near the whelping box, but separate from the puppies to allow her time to rest. At about this time, the puppies will start trying to leave the box to explore. They should be well supervised and have safe toys available. Can I move the whelping box? We have found that moving the whelping box or puppy pen set-up on a weekly basis exposes the puppies to new scents and air currents and increases their adaptability and development by about two weeks, especially compared to puppies who are raised in the same corner until they go to their new homes. Is whelping box necessary? As the last week of pregnancy approaches, your female dog will often begin looking for a secure and comfortable place to have her litter of puppies. Before this time comes, it is essential to create a whelping box so she becomes comfortable with it and knows this is the preferred place to have her puppies. Do 4 week old puppies need a heat lamp? Young puppies cannot maintain their own body temperature for a week or two after birth. Heating the area over the whelping box with the aid of a heat lamp is usually all that is necessary. When should I remove the whelping box? I usually take them out at about 3 — 4weeks. This is what I have in My box they just stay there all the time. When can puppies go all night without nursing? A six or seven week old puppy can go through the night without needing to feed as long as they have had enough food during the day. Should newborn puppies sleep with Mom? A newborn puppy is completely helpless and dependent upon her mother. Puppies should remain with the mother and littermates until about age eight to 12 weeks. How do you keep a puppy whelping box clean? Clean the bottom with a chemical-free disinfectant cleanser. Spray a bit of chemical-free disinfectant cleanser on the bottom and sides of your whelping box, and use a paper towel to wipe this up. When can I leave my dog alone with her puppies? Can you leave newborn puppies alone with their mom overnight? Should I leave my dog alone while she is in labor? Should I be present during the whelping? Some dogs like the owner to be with them the whole time they are in labor. Others prefer to have their puppies in seclusion. If your pet chooses to be left alone, try to avoid intruding any more than necessary. What is the best bedding for a whelping box? Many breeders use shredded newspaper to line whelping boxes, but others prefer towels and blankets, wood shavings, or even sand. Should I keep my dog in the whelping box? A whelping box is designed to keep the newborn puppies safe, warm, and comfortable. Whelping means the process where a female dog gives birth to puppies. And a whelping box is a container or box designed to keep the puppies safe and warm. Having a whelping box makes it convenient for the mother to give birth comfortably. Female dogs are very protective of their puppies. Hence the nesting box offers a sense of security. Female dogs need assistance and a safe place to give birth. Hence, a whelping pen would be of great help. If your dog is about to give birth, it would be better to get a box or make it yourself. For a small dog like Pomeranian, you can convert a large card box into a whelping pen. You can put your creativity into the process and make a nesting box for your dog. If your dog is big, she might probably give birth to a large number of puppies. Hence, the size of the box should be large enough to fit the puppies and the mother. Furthermore, you can get the box from a pet store if creativity and DIY are not your forte. Here are some of the factors that you need to consider: The sides of the pen should be high enough that can keep the puppies safe for three weeks. Also, make sure that the mother can move to and fro freely. The size of the pen should be spacious enough for your dog and puppies. It should have enough space where the mother can feed her pups comfortably. In addition, it should allow them to move freely. It will help to keep the pups warm when the mom is not around. These are the factors that you need to consider while getting a nesting box. It helps the mother and the pups in the long run. You would notice the growth within the first few weeks. They can move and stand up over the sides of the whelping pen. By three weeks, they become mobile and able to move towards the edge of the nesting box. However, before it reaches that stage, you should take care of it diligently. Some pups would go astray and get lost. Hence, getting a box with proper height is essential. Sometimes the mother has to go out of the box for a nature call or food. The box offers a sense of security both to the dog owner and the mother. When the puppies are born, they have no control over their body temperature. So, while the mom is out, the box will keep them warm. However, you have to make sure that the bottom of the box is covered with a soft blanket. By three weeks, they will start moving, and some puppies might even get out of the box. So, the real chaos begins when they reach three weeks. It would be best if you were more careful than ever. How to Keep the Nesting Box Clean? Taking care of puppies can be quite tiring. Once the puppies are born safely in the box, it would be better to change the sheet or the beddings. The mother will take care of it. However, from the second to the third week, the real work starts. It will help if you make sure that the box is clean. While cleaning the box, you can keep the pups temporarily in a warm blanket. You need to replace the sheet or newspaper at least twice or thrice per day. However, keeping the box clean prevents the puppies from possible bacterial infections. It also helps to keep the puppies clean. You should see that the nesting box is clean and dry. So, like a responsible dog owner , make sure that the box is clean and warm. Changing the Whelping Box to Other Areas Once the puppies have passed the first week, you place the box in other areas. It will help them to get used to the new smell and sounds. However, make sure that the place is quiet and warm. Some kids would like to hold the pups, which would be too early and maybe dangerous. During the first two weeks, puppies are pretty delicate. So, it would be best to keep far away from children. The first three weeks are a crucial moment for you and the pups. The puppies are in their developing stage, and they need a quiet and calm environment to grow. So, you should make sure that puppies are kept safe and warm. They would be too young to take the regular food and would cause indigestion. But you can keep water for the mother. They get very thirsty while taking care of the puppies. She requires good protein and energy to keep the pups fed through her milk. You can place the food in the water once they can move or walk. However, make sure that the food is easily digestible. Also, puppies tend to eat food without a limit. So, you should give the food moderately. Overeating can cause indigestion and vomiting. Hence, it would help if you were careful not to overfeed them. It offers a sense of security to the mother and the dog owners as well. Having a nesting box helps to keep the puppies from going astray. The first three weeks are crucial for the puppies to grow and develop healthily. Having the right size of the whelping box can help both the puppies and the mother move freely. It allows the mother to breastfeed the puppies comfortably. If your dog is about to give birth, it would be better to arrange a whelping box. It offers safety and assurance to both the mother and puppies. These links are affiliate links, so if you do end up using the links, I will earn a commission. Dog Food: Every dog needs to eat correctly, and finding the best food for your dog can be challenging, as the market is absolutely flooded with products. A whelping box is an important item to have when puppies are about to be born. You can construct something yourself or buy a specifically designed boxes from pet stores. When can puppies leave the whelping box? Puppies can often leave the whelping box at 3 weeks old. At this age, puppies can move out of the whelping box as they become more mobile. Puppies can stand up and even climb out of the whelping box nest. At this age, puppies start to explore outside of their nest, to find out more about the wide and exciting world around them. Well, I can tell you that a whelping box will help you and the mother cope better with a horde of tiny puppies in their first few weeks. What is a whelping box? Also known as a nest or whelping pen, the whelping box is a container designed to keep the newborn litter in one safe and cozy place. The mother also likes to have a place where she can give birth to her puppies in comfort while having a sense of security. Whelping means to give birth hence the name of the box. It should be placed in a quiet part of the house and set up a couple of weeks before your dog gives birth. This gives her time to get familiar with the box. Image via Pixabay. What can I use as a whelping box? If your dog is a little girl, you could convert a large, sturdy cardboard box into a nesting box. You can make your own if carpentry is your hobby or you could go to the local pet store and buy a whelping box. What to look out for when picking a whelping box You need to make sure you pick a whelping box that takes into consideration the following factors: The sides are high enough to keep the puppies safely contained in their first 3 weeks but low enough for the mother to move in and out freely. The size is big enough to accommodate all the puppies being born. The bottom of the box may come with whelping pads or you can simply line it with newspapers and a soft blanket. Some breeders will use wood shavings to cover the floor of the box. Some whelping boxes come with an extension which is great for more active puppies who are still too young to leave the pen but are moving around quite a bit. Picking the right whelping box goes a long way to keeping mum and pups comfortable and secure. When is the right age for puppies to leave the whelping box? Puppies develop and mature very quickly in their first few weeks. A whelping box is designed to keep the newborn puppies safe, warm, and comfortable. Keeping the puppies in one place and even using a heat lamp will help keep them warm. And, when the mother needs time out, she can leave the box and get some space knowing her pups are all safe in one spot. A whelping box gives you peace of mind your puppies are well-protected, staying warm, and not disappearing once they start crawling. But be ready for the exodus once they reach 3 weeks old and might start walking! How do I keep the whelping box clean? If your dog gave birth to the puppies in the whelping box, you would need to change the bedding once all the puppies are safely delivered. Keep them warm with a blanket. Use a non-chemical cleaning detergent and warm water to wash out the box. Remove any dirty bedding and replace with clean blankets, newspapers or wood shavings. Some breeders do put in a litter box for puppies once they start crawling. This could be the first step to house training your pups. Do regular inspections throughout the day to make sure the whelping box is always dry and clean. Can I move the whelping box to other areas? Once your puppies have passed their first week, you could consider moving them to different areas in the house. But remember, you need to keep them warm so make sure there are no draughts and the puppies are not too intimidated by the new environment. Be careful also with handling newborn puppies when moving them. For the first 3 weeks, the puppies are small, developing, and can be easily disturbed by too much activity around them. Do I need to put food and water in the whelping box? The puppies will be drinking milk from their mother for the first 3 to 4 weeks, before moving onto water. For the first 3 weeks, you could keep a bowl of water in the box for the mother. She will be very thirsty while nurturing her puppies. However, once the puppies start becoming mobile keep both the water and food outside the box. Conclusion Get ready for a whole lot of fun, but also stress. She will take them no doubt but being able to help just a little with whelping boxes, nesting, and more will make it so much easier for you. You might also like…. During that first three weeks we weigh the puppies daily, trim their toenails every days, and put new collars on them every days as their growth is so rapid. The standard puppies are weighed on a regular digital scale and should gain an ounce a day at first and then up to ounces daily, whereas miniature puppies gain in a tenth of an ounce to start with and then an ounce or two a day. Jenny with litter at birth in 4' x 4' whelping box with lots of absorbent padding. Tasy in her "birthing bed" with the first three pups of the TS5 litter "Tasy" moves into her "doll crib" after the puppies are born - shown here at 3 weeks of age. We find it essential that the dam have food and water inside her whelping box the first week, however once she is willing to leave the box for short periods of time it can be set just outside the box, otherwise she will not eat and drink enough to provide all the milk needed for the puppies well being, and if you are not supplementing with goats milk, your puppies can suffer from dehydration. The standard dam has to produce almost two gallons of milk a day by the time a litter of puppies is two weeks of age. That's twice the amount a good dairy goat gives, who is at least double the dam's body weight. We find that goat milk, canned or fresh, is a much better supplement than the commercial formulas, as we have better weight gains and hardly ever have diarrhea in our puppies. If you have more than 8 puppies it is also essential that the dam's tail area and vulva be washed each time she goes out to go, as since there are not enough teats to go around there will always be a puppy trying to latch onto the vulva. The puppies can pick up bacteria and worm eggs, and a one celled organism called coccidiosis in this way which can lead to diarrhea. Mandy with AM3 Litter x Sterling at 1 week old. We practice what we call "giving the puppies an opportunity to learn" as a puppy raising method. We whelp the puppies in one corner of the living room where we have easy access to the box. We have found that moving the whelping box or puppy pen set-up on a weekly basis exposes the puppies to new scents and air currents and increases their adaptability and development by about two weeks, especially compared to puppies who are raised in the same corner until they go to their new homes. This is the first stage of their house breaking. Within hours the smartest puppies of the litter, barely able to crawl, will crawl out to use the paper and then crawl back into the whelping box. Within a few days the entire litter will usually be using the paper. Supplementing the puppies these first weeks gives us a good chance to play with the puppies feet, and get them used to their faces being handled for grooming, however even when we don't supplement we take time daily to handle every puppy and get them used to different textures, smells, and having their feet, faces, ears and tails handled. At three weeks of age when the ears open we start their cereal feeding, and use a soft clap with a "come, babies" command each time they are fed. This leads to the next step in the transition of removing the second box and the addition of a paper lined exercise pen to the whelping box at four weeks of age. At this time we start walking the puppies outside about every two hours from AM to PM. During this time ,the 4th-5th week, we teach them some basic commands - "in", "out", "potty outside", "walk", "watch", and continuing with their "come" command. Once they have understanding of these basic commands we then take them out to an outside play yard, regardless of the weather. It's really important to have this set-up close to an outside door if possible, or to use sections of an exercise pen to make an aisleway directly outdoors. Puppies can be carried outdoors, however their "potty outside" is learned much faster if they walk out the door in tune to the "out" command and the "potty outside" command at the same time. Usually within two days my standard puppies have quit having messes on the paper and are actually asking to go "out" - often at AM at this stage, and I do get up to accommodate them as this speeds their training amazingly, and I have a lot less mess to deal with - and less dirty crates when that time comes along. You can see that I do sleep within hearing of the puppies - usually until those we are continuing training with for their new families are weeks old. TS5 Miniature Litter - 2nd day of cereal feeding and 1st trip outside to the "big" world. We also start the grooming training at 4 weeks of age - starting with a bath with a soft water spray in a utility tub, and using a soft flow warm air dryer and a slicker brush - brushing the coat up the body toward the head, and up the legs toward the back as it dries. We always groom on a table, or the washer or dryer, or a counter - this is essential in getting the puppies used to being groomed on a grooming table and getting over any tendency toward the fear of heights. We cuddle them in our arms on the table to help them feel loved and secure, and to build their confidence level. We try to take pictures at birth, day old individual pictures, then every week thereafter for their new families, and for our albums. We also try to take litter shots as well at the various stages. I find that special touches add a lot of enjoyment, both for us raising the puppies, and for our families who are kept in the "link" of their puppy growing from infancy to toddler weeks. A Tasy x Promise Puppy before his first grooming and after his first grooming. My, oh my, what a difference!! We also start the worming program at four weeks of age - and this is really essential if you occasionally have a puppy that coughs after feeding, or vomits back up milk or cereal. Round worms are the one type of worm that the puppies can get in utero, and they grow as fast as the puppies. A heavy case of worms can often mimic other serious conditions in young puppies. It is also essential to use a low dosage of wormer in cases of heavy infestation, and at times give the puppy a few drops of oil by mouth, and possibly even an enema with a few drops of oil to help pass the worms. We use pyrantel pamoate for our first series of wormings. It is essential to worm every days until no worms are seen - these worms look like spaghetti - and once you see a litter of puppies pass them you never forget them. The wormer works in about six hours and is very effective. We have a computer generated health record that we complete on each puppy, and note all the worming's on it and on the litter weight records as well. Once the worming has been done, and if the teeth are coming in on the entire litter we start adding softened and mashed with potato masher kibble to the puppies cereal mixture - gradually reducing the rice baby cereal. During the next two weeks we gradually start adding cooked rice, cooked oatmeal, scrambled eggs, cottage cheese, ground apple and carrot, and a supplement Green Vibrance which has microbials in it to their soft feed. As soon as the puppies are able to eat dry kibble well and not just play with it we gradually reduce the soft feedings to AM and PM. The puppies often prefer dry kibble during times of heavy teething, however dry kibble no matter how well promoted does not meet all of their nutritional needs. Also the more organically chemical, steroid, and low grade antibiotic free a puppy can be fed, the better for its health and longevity. We keep our puppies on microbials their whole life as this keeps their intestinal system in optimal health - they absorb more nutrients, they produce less fecal material, they are less prone to other bacterial infections, they don't have smelly gas, they are less prone to bloat typical in a number of large breeds , they have better pigmentation as a result of absorbing more nutrients. We have also found that since taking this approach to diet that puppy and show coats on adults are more luxurious. As you can see their fourth week involves a lot of changes for the puppies. At six weeks of age we start the weaning process - although most "mothers" have already started it. A poodle "mom" is the most devoted creature ever the first week or two, but after that usually reclaims part of her own life to be with her human family. She will return to the whelping box every few hours to take care of her puppies needs, but other than that spends her time on a blanket or pad outside the box. Using a higher powered water spray, a higher powered table dryer, and if the coat is still thin enough a palm pro clipper again to clip the face, feet, tummy and tail. At this time Mishelle also adds standing the puppy properly on the table and does the first scissoring around the tail head and up the rump - as much to get the puppy used to the sound and feel of the scissors as because there is that much coat to scissor off. This is also when we try to take the first pictures of the puppies in a nice stance to send to everyone. This also helps to train the puppy for standing on the table which benefits when we do the conformation evaluations at 8 weeks of age. Puppies fearful on the table are very difficult to assess. This is also essential for miniature puppies that are going to be shown. It's very sad when a miniature is put on a table in the show ring for the judges inspection, and is fearful. Just minutes a day on a table, being encouraged to stand and be touched, can make a remarkable difference in just a week. A Maddy x Calvin puppy at 6 weeks of age after her 2nd grooming Six weeks is also when we remove the whelping box, as the mother now just gets in with the puppies about 4 times a day and either sits or stands to nurse them. She also starts to regurgitate her feedings for the puppies at this stage. The teeth are starting to come all the way in at this time, and the puppies will start sparring, and at times will really yelp. They learn at this stage not to bite each other too hard, and this is the first step to them learning not to bite humans too hard. We often have families who want to get their poodle puppies at this age, especially if they are going to training in agility. We do not allow any puppies to go to their new homes until they are weeks of age, as we feel that they need the "sibling rivalry" stage to learn aggressive and defensive behavior - which is learned by their interplay with each other. Many of our poodles go to homes with runners, and I can't tell you how many times they have had to defend their owners from aggressive dogs of other breeds, and always successfully. You never know when your poodle may have to come to your defense, and the maneuvers they learn as puppies at this age are the foundation for their defensive techniques, increase their alertness, and the speed of their thinking and their reactivity time. I love watching the puppies develop their skills during playtime at this stage. It is their transition from infancy to toddlers. It is also at six weeks that we remove the whelping box replacing it with two small crates without the gates on. Our favorite crates are the Furrari's, as they just snap together, and the gates can be opened from either side and simply lifted off for this stage of training. The first night all the puppies will crowd into one small crate - then I will hear them in the middle of the night groaning and grumbling, and in the morning the puppies will be divided between the two crates. That day we add a third small crate, and go through the same process - which we repeat until there are two puppies per crate. We never put the gates on at this stage, just allow the puppies the freedom to sleep in or out of the crates, and to play with them. We estimate that a poodle puppy develops 21 years in it's first year. From infancy to toddler, to preschool, to kindergarten, to pre-adolescent, to adolescent, to pre-teen, to teenager, to post teen, and early twenties. Their intelligence is equivalent to that of many humans, and the learning of human vocabulary in a standard poodle is amazing. They are a joy to work with and to train, many almost training themselves. At this point we start giving the puppies rawhide chew bones to help with their teeth cutting, the cardboard rolls from toilet paper, paper towels, tape rolls, and small boxes that they can pack around, tear up and destroy. Much like a toddler builds a stack of bricks and then knocks it down destructive stage so also does a puppy need to go through this stage. So we give them things that don't cost anything, that are light weight, and the right size around for a puppy jaw to pick up. They love it. We also start giving the puppies soft and hard toys to play with, and also try to observe which puppies in the litter are water lovers - they play in the water and empty the container almost as fast as we can fill it. We often get asked for puppies that like water by families that boat, or live on rivers or lakes, or on house boats. We start watching closely for the different types of personalities that the puppies have, how they relate to each other, to new situations, to new people, to other animals they come in contact with. Those that are more adventuresome, more curious, more courageous, etc. We are also watching for activity levels and how they move. It is also at weeks that we take the puppies to the back yard to play - as they are then big enough to be taught to go up and down steps. We have closed back steps, and open backed steps like condos and the steps at the air cargo depots for them to learn on. This can be quite a challenge to some, and we usually have to delay this training with the miniatures for a couple of more weeks when they are a bit bigger. They are so proud of themselves when they achieve success in going up and down the steps, even though it is just three steps - and will run up and down just for the joy of it. In the back yard they also learn to drink from an automatic waterer, so that they don't fear the hissing sound as it refills. Having nice clean feet, faces, and tail head and rump helps us to evaluate the puppies much better, and they will score better when all can be seen and evaluated. We do not give the puppies any treats prior to testing, nor do we do any actual crate training in closed crates. At this age the puppies get their first bath in the grooming tub with a harder spray of water instead of in the utility tub. The Force dryer is used for the first time, and the Andis or Oster clippers. This is also the clipping that helps us to determine the color that the puppies might end up as - blues and silvers are born black, silver beige and cafe-au-lait can be born very dark brown, light apricots that are going to cream out - we study the nose, feet, heels, and under the tail and neck for signs of color change. Tasy x Promise Pup - Black - at 8 weeks! A Mandy x Sterling Pup - Silver - at 8 weeks. Silvers and blues are born black and change gradually - starting with the muzzle and feet We try to schedule temperament testing 16 tests and conformation evaluations a three page form using AKC breed requirements, International breed requirements, and Puppy Puzzle testing at 8 weeks minus or plus three days, as this is the most accurate time for assessing conformation before the puppy starts its rapid growth spurts. This is at times a little early for temperament testing, however as so many families want their puppies at 8 weeks of age, it is necessary to do this before the litter starts to go to new homes. Often our entire litters are reserved before they are even born, or at least by the time they are 6 weeks of age, and this helps us to match puppies and their capabilities and personalities and temperament to the homes they are going into, especially the puppies that are shipped across the United States. This also means asking our prospective families for lots of details about their home style, their activities, other pets or animals in or around their homes, and what they want to do with their puppy as an adult. We also help families at this point to decide the best age of puppy to suit their lifestyle, as many families in todays age have difficulty getting the time those first weeks to house train a young puppy. The weekly cost covers food, treats, training, vaccinations and wormings. Temperament testing is beneficial, although there are those that disagree. It is done in a strange place by a strange person. It's purpose is to note the natural instincts and adaptability of the young puppies, and our families have found our assessments to be pretty accurate as their puppies have developed. The disadvantage of testing at 8 weeks versus 12 weeks, is that puppies can be conceived over a ten day period. The gestation period is days, with all of the body development being in the first 50 days, and the weight gain being in the last days. If the bitch whelps according to the first puppy conceived, then the last puppy or puppies conceived may not have had much weight gain - however due to genetics it will not always be the smallest puppies. When we do temperament testing we also try to be aware of which puppies opened eyes first and last, which had teeth coming in first and last - as these can be indicative of which puppies in the litter are the oldest and the youngest - as the psychological development can also be different, with the thinking processes of the youngest not being quite as developed as the thinking processes of the gestationally oldest puppies. In temperament testing we are looking at social skills, inanimate object retrieving instincts, sensitivity testing, chase response, bird retrieving instincts, perseverance and motivation. These help to determine which puppies might be best suited as companions, service and therapy candidates, agility and obedience prospects, those with "bird" instincts, and very important today those with good search and rescue and tracking instincts. Conformation evaluations are where we literally take a puppies body structure apart and put it back together again - all on paper. We are looking for the few puppies in a litter that are the most correct by breed specifications in bone structure. As companions for runners, horse back riders, hikers, bikers, etc. Most of our standard puppies, after 10 years of breeding are quite structurally correct - however we try to match structural correctness, temperament and personality to the needs of a family. To be a pick of the litter puppy it must score high in all three areas. At times a structurally correct puppy may not have the best temperament for competitive events, and a senior family doesn't need a puppy with a high working drive. When we complete the testing we vaccinate each of the puppies and tattoo them with their individual identification number - that designates their dam, her litter number, and the number of puppy within the litter - in their left ear. This tattoo must be read and entered in the medical records of the puppy by the families veterinarian at the time of the "well puppy check" within 10 days of receiving the puppy for our 2 year from date of birth guarantee to go into effect. As soon as the testing is completed we start crate training the puppies. The first night two puppies are put into a crate with the gate on, and given 3 small treats. They are cuddled before being put into the crate, and we use the "in" command which they are used to. When they are taken out in the morning they are hugged and cuddled again, and given their "go potty outside" command as we take them "out" the front door. The second night they are crated individually, and are also crated during the day for short periods of time, to get them used to taking "naps" in their crates. They are always given three tiny biscuits when we want them in their crates, and usually within three days they compete to see who can get in the crates first and turn around for their treats. Usually at this age the puppies will crate from approximately PM to about AM without having accidents in their crates, however I do get up in the middle of the night and let them out if someone gets really fussy. In hot summer weather they at times need out during the night to get a drink just as much as they need out to go potty. We always make their last soft feeding of the day by PM, so that they have plenty of time to evacuate before bedtime. Remember poodle puppies are very smart, and if they get me up several nights in a row - I watch very carefully to see if they really needed to go - and if not they have just decided to get me out of bed for some extra attention and playtime - remember the pre-adolescent who wants another drink of water, etc. They will test their new families in the same way, and if they win they are ruling the family instead of the family ruling them. At this point the puppies are ready to go to their new homes to families living locally, or those driving from other states to get their puppies. If they are flying we keep them for two more weeks - and ship when they are approximately 10 - 12 weeks old. This allows us to start travel training and leash training of the puppies, and allow them to develop better holding capacity for daytime crating before shipping. Also it gives us time to receive family t-shirts worn until sweaty and placed in ziploc bags to give to the puppies in their crates three days before shipping. Having items of clothing which we tie into knots for a pillow or toy allows the puppy to get used to it's new families scents, and helps it to adapt and bond much more quickly. It also gives us time to ship their puppy pack to them, before the puppy is shipped. We follow up on our puppies for years, and encourage our families to keep in touch with us and contact us with any questions regarding nutrition, training problems or needs. We also board our own puppies back, which is wonderful as then we get to assess their development and personalities as adults. We have families now who purposefully plan their vacations for the Oregon Coast just so they can leave their much loved poodles with us - they come from as far away as Montana, Idaho, north eastern Washington, California, Utah, and of course the closer regions of Oregon and Washington. Unless we are expecting a litter imminently they get to come back and live in the house with us, and always enjoy playing with so many other poodles in our huge back yard, and side yard play areas. We also continue any training that is in progress on the younger puppies. A Mandy boy at 15 weeks! A Lucy daughter at 1 year - sent by her family in Idaho Many of our families also return with their puppies to take the one-on-one grooming classes with us - with Mishelle now being the primary instructor. Many of our families are now doing all of their own grooming, and even if they aren't have found the class very beneficial as they have learned what to expect from a good groomer. Many have returned for second and even third classes to learn advanced scissoring techniques, and several are now learning show grooming and handling from us as well. It's biblical that the older are to teach the younger - and we feel very strongly about this after not finding anyone willing to assist us when we first started out. We want those who have a true desire to become breeders of the poodles to start in the right way, learning to do the proper testing and research, taking part in genetic research projects, learn to groom their poodles properly, and to breed properly, caring for their whelping bitches and puppies correctly. Mishelle should have been in the picture with "Eve" but was in the Show Ring with her instead. She groomed 14 standards and 2 miniatures for this show. The poodle is a wonderful and unique breed - sharing life with it's family. Stages of Puppy Development Birth to 3 weeks The first 20 days of a pups life it is not capable of much learning. The mental capacity is about nil. The pup will react when it is in need of food, sleep, warmth and its mother. During the first 3 weeks it is VERY important to look after the dam as well. She will in turn, look after the puppies. Once or twice a day the puppies should be handled by a human and they should be weighed daily. During the first 3 weeks most dams like to be in a warm secluded area, not in the family living area. Pups remain contently in their whelping box for the first 20 days of their life. Newborn puppies sleep most of the day away. No matter what the breed, this is the time when the dormant senses wake up. From day 21 to 28 puppies are in need of their mom more than any other time as their brains and nervous systems begin to develop and they become aware of their surroundings. As mom jumps out of the box, they suddenly watch her wondering where she went. Pups may start climbing out of the whelping box at this age, so it is time to expand their home. At this stage we add a small potty area beside the whelp box. If a puppy were to loose his mom at this stage it would greatly affect his emotional wellbeing. Emotional growth is just blossoming as the puppy realizes it is alive. It is also at this age that characteristics can develop like shyness and fear. Any negative characteristics that develop at this stage in life are often permanent personality traits. The puppies sleep 20 or more hours a day. They will not go far, but they will begin to explore. At this time we expand their area to add a play and eating area in the daytime. This is the time to move them out to the kitchen and family room area, where life is happening in the home. This is not the age to be in the back bedroom, garage or barn. During this time, a puppy will learn to respond to voices, sounds and recognize different people. The puppies in their group will establish a 'pecking order', some will want to lead and some will want to follow. The dominant ones will eat first and the omega ones will wait. The dominant ones can become bullies and hog all the toys. This is an important stage to watch to learn the temperaments of each puppy and should be used for placing puppies into the proper homes. Some scientific studies prove that if there is a bully in a litter that is making others cower and be shy it can set in traits that are very hard to turn around, but it is also important to leave puppies in a social group long enough to be adventurous and for the puppy to acquire some social competitive skills. On the same note, a puppy should never be allowed to get too pushy. While shyer puppies have to learn to handle themselves in social groups, a dominant puppy needs to learn it is not acceptable to be a bully. Different breeds need to be separated at different ages. Often if the bully is adopted out first the remaining puppies will loose some of their shyness. Puppies at this age sleep 18 to 20 hours a day. By 7 weeks, a pup is considered emotionally developed and ready to learn, but the pup does not possess an adult brain yet. At 7 weeks old the breeder of the pups can start crate training for an hour or two a day with 2 pups in a crate. This helps with separation anxiety. By 8 weeks of age a puppy should be able to go in a crate alone for a nap, and it is almost ready for its new home. A puppy should never be taken away from it's mother before weeks of age. The mother dog teaches the puppies in the litter manners, respect, social skills, and proper etiquette, along with many other valuable lessons. When a puppy misses this stage it can cause the pup to have future behavior issues as most humans do not understand natural dog behavior enough to teach the pup these things. What a puppy learns now will be retained and become part of who the dog becomes and his personality. Most dams stop caring for their pups by 7 weeks, as they have teeth and she pushes them away. If a pup is left with the dam during this period it's emotional development can be altered, as it remains dependent on her. The same can happen if littermates are placed together. They rely on each other instead of the new owner and they often do not find adequate security in their mom or littermate. They need their new owner to take over the role and it is important that the humans understand natural dog behavior in order to fulfill the puppies instincts and needs. First shots should be done at 7. When a puppy stays with his litter after 8 to 9 weeks of age without adequate human contact it doesn't adjust as well to a human social life. The optimum time to take a new puppy is from 8 to 9 weeks of age. It is always best to have a pup do his learning from his new owner and in his new home. Puppies are often adopted out at 8, 9, 10 or 11 weeks. Older puppies can do just fine if the breeder has spent a lot of time socializing them away from their littermates. Ideally 9 weeks seems to be the perfect age for most breeds to go to new homes. What the dog learns from 8 to 12 weeks will be with him forever. At this time the puppy must be introduced to other people and go for walks on the pavement street avoiding dirt or grass until it has had its 2nd shots. If the first shots are done at 8 weeks and second are done at 12 weeks it is a good idea to enroll in puppy kindergarten that starts right at 12 weeks. At this age on up to several months old, puppies will sleep 16 to 20 hours a day, give or take depending on the puppies energy level and the activity around them. Sleeping more during rapid growth sprurts. The sleep is broken up between night time sleep and naps during the day. It is common for a puppy to play hard, running around with bounds of energy, then suddenly crashing into a deep sleep. It is important to keep in mind that all puppies by this time have formed a general personality. Some are natural born leaders, some are middle of the road and could go either way and some are very submissive and really prefer not to lead anything. All puppies have an instinct to have a leader who can provide structure, because in their minds without it the pack cannot survive. Therefore even the most naturally born submissive dog may feel the need to take over as an alpha should they feel everyone else around them is too weak to care for the pack. These dogs are often very stressed out about their role because they really do not want it, but feel the need to lead just the same. After all, to them it's a matter of life or death. One of the biggest questions new owners call about is that the pup is an angel for the first couple weeks and then it starts to nip in an attempt to control things around it. This happens when a puppy does not see the humans as natural born leaders to which it can respect and it attempts to get the pack in order. If this happens it does not necessarily mean you got a bad puppy, but often means you are not being a good canine owner. Owners must be calm but firm and follow through. Set the rules of the home and stick to them. Teach basic obedience and how to heel on a leash. Do not let the puppy bolt out the door. Stay calm and confident and remember that dogs can feel your emotions. If you have emotional problems your dog knows and will see you as a weak being. Always remember to a dog anger is a weakness, so take a deep breath and control yourself. Should the puppy feel it is stronger minded than the humans it will not want to be at the bottom. Puppy owners should be prepared that the pup may attempt to establish itself as the dominant one in the family. This is where you need to understand a dog's natural instincts and learn their language so you can read them. It may see whether it can physically strike out at his owner like some teens and could nip or growl. Should this happen be prepared to stop the behavior immediately. It is kind of like kids wanting dessert before dinner or to stay up later. You just have to say NO. Each dog is different, just as kids are, therefore you need to figure out what works for you and your situation. If it is being aggressive one method is to pin it on its back and hold him there with a firm NO. If a pup is allowed to get away with bad behavior it will lose respect for the owner and learn that rebelling gets him his own way. The key is for the humans to be calm, confident and firm all at the same time. If you find yourself yelling or angry you as the human are out of control and need to learn how to portray yourself as someone your dog can look up to and respect. Dogs do not listen to unstable humans and anything but calm, confident and firm, to them is unstable. There should be zero tolerance for aggressiveness. Heaps of love and understanding will not stop bad behavior. A pup must be shown fast and firmly that you are the one in charge. If you have a good breeder who understands the dog even returning him for a few days can help as the breeder gets the dog back under control and you assess your own behavior and understanding of this animal you are trying to live with. Sending a dog away to be trained without training yourself never works, as the way your dog is acting often has more to do with the humans it is living with. This goes for any dog of any age. Learn how to groom your dog. Teach it to lie still for grooming and nail trimming. If you are having trouble call the breeder or a behaviorist for help. It is best to have earned a dog's respect and trust in regards to grooming by 16 weeks of age. A pups natural instinct will be to periodically try to test the order in the pack. Especially if there are children. If the owner is submissive, quiet and week, thus making the dog feel the need to lead the home, its respect for its owner will weaken and the owner will become inferior in the dogs eyes. In these cases the owner is destined to be owned by the dog and you will surely see behavior problems emerge. A puppy should have a good start on crate training when it leaves a breeder's home. Help your puppy feel secure by giving it its own bed and crate in a place where it can be alone when it needs some quiet time. It should be crated for one or two naps per day, especially when making and eating dinner and crated at night. It should not ever have the run of the house till after 6 months of age or housebreaking and training can become very difficult. A puppy should start formal obedience by 6 months of age, preferably sooner. Remember when you choose to adopt a dog you are choosing to take an animal into your home. The animal is not a human baby and humans are not born with canine instincts. Take some time to learn about the canine and be prepared to change your way of life to accommodate the new member of the family. The puppies have arrived. They have been weighed and identified; they have nursed and are now sleeping quietly except for the normal twitching. Now what? Your job is not over yet, in fact, it's really just beginning. Nutrition and Feeding The mother will be ready for some food and water. Bring the dishes to the whelping box, as she will not want to leave the newborn puppies. Do not leave the dishes on the floor in the whelping box, as the puppies could crawl into them. Hang the dishes from the side of the whelping box or offer her food and water at least every hours to start. She should be taken outside on a frequent and regular basis to relieve herself. Within days, the mother's appetite will dramatically increase to times her pre-pregnancy intake. She will need a near constant supply of a high quality puppy food do NOT use large breed puppy formulas, which are generally lower in protein, fat, and minerals and water to maintain her weight and health while feeding the puppies. She should not look gaunt or thin if her weight is maintained. Ideally, she should weigh the same at the time of weaning, as she did when she was bred. A healthy puppy is firm, plump, and vigorous. Puppies should nurse every 2 hours or so. If they nurse until their stomachs appear round and they sleep quietly, they are eating enough. If they are crying and moving a lot, they are not eating enough. They may be swallowing air, which makes the stomach appear larger. As they become weaker, they will lay still and not cry. Their weight should double in the first days. Before, during, and after nursing, the mother will lick the stomach and perineal area to stimulate urination and defecation. She will continue to do this for weeks. Weigh the puppy daily for the first 2 weeks, then weigh at least weekly. A food scale typically works well for weighing the puppies. Failure to gain weight is often the first sign of illness in puppies. At about 3 weeks of age, the puppies will begin to imitate the mother's eating and drinking. A secure shallow water dish should now be available at least part of the day. Prepare the puppy mush by placing 2 cups of high quality dry puppy food in a blender with .This should be blended until the consistency of human infant cereal. This feeds puppies of a medium-sized breed. The puppies should receive meals a day of this to start. Once the puppies have checked it out, walked in it, and have eaten some, the mother can be allowed to finish it and clean the puppies off. Each week, increase the amount of food, decrease the amount of the milk replacer and water that is added and the time of blending, so by 7 weeks of age, the puppies are eating dry food. Once they are on dry food, it may be left in with the puppies when the mother is out of the box or the meal times can continue. As the puppies eat more solid food, the mother may be let away from the puppies for an ever longer period of time. If the weaning is not rushed, she will naturally start decreasing milk production, as the puppies increase their intake of solid food. As the puppies begin eating the puppy mush at 4 weeks of age, start changing the mother's diet back to adult food to also help her decrease milk production. Keep increasing the adult food and decreasing the puppy food until by the 7th week postpartum she is eating only adult food. Hopefully she has been fed well during pregnancy and lactation so she weighs the same at weaning as she did before pregnancy. Want to learn how to save on your dog's veterinary care? Click here Sanitation and Housebreaking During and after whelping, the mother should be allowed to go outside to urinate and defecate. Take her out on a leash bring a flashlight if it is dark , and watch her closely, as she could have another puppy. The whelping box needs to be changed at least once a day at this stage, and times a day as the puppies begin eating solids and the mother is not cleaning up after them. A large heavy paper may be laid on the bottom, several layers of newspaper over that, and a tightly stretched blanket over the newspaper. The blanket should be large enough to fit under all 4 sides of the box. If the box was made so the sides set into the floor, the sides are picked up, the blanket stretched, and the sides set down to hold the blanket in place. Puppies can become lost under blankets or under wrinkles in blankets. When cleaning, check the consistency and color of the puppy stool. It should be brown and formed, but not overly firm. Any deviations and the veterinarian should be contacted. To facilitate housebreaking, the puppies should be given definite feeding, playing, sleeping, and elimination areas. Once the puppies are mobile, they will use one area for elimination. Cover this area with a layer of newspapers with cedar or pine shavings on top. The new owners then place a small amount of cedar or pine shavings in the preferred location of their yard to aid in housebreaking. Keep the elimination area clean and dry. Puppies head toward the heat source to nurse so do not have the heat source warmer than the mother. Hanging a household thermometer on the inside of the whelping box will help you know the temperature in the box. Puppies typically lay side by side or on top of each other to share warmth. If the puppies are scattered throughout the whelping box and away from the heat lamp, the temperature is too warm. If they are all piled on top of each other, it may be too cold. Puppies need the extra heat, as they are unable to regulate their body temperature until several weeks old. Health of the Mother Each mammary gland and nipple should be checked at least once a day for redness, hardness, discharge, or streaking color. If mastitis develops, the veterinarian should be notified immediately. If caught early, milking out the affected gland and applying hot compresses will help prevent a spread of the problem. Sometimes, antibiotics are necessary. If she gets multiple glands with mastitis, the puppies will need to be bottle fed. The puppies' nails should be trimmed weekly starting within days of birth. This will help prevent some of the scratches on the mother's mammary glands. The deciduous teeth start coming in around day .Check the mammary glands of the mother daily for bite marks. The mother will have a bloody discharge from her vulva which may be quite heavy for several days. It should decrease in amount and become darker and be almost gone within weeks. The mother's hair may have become very thick and luxurious during the pregnancy. Around the time of weaning, the mother starts to shed. This extreme loss of hair coat is natural and it should be back to normal in about another months. This shedding is more extreme than a normal shed cycle and some mothers become quite bald. This is often called 'blowing a coat. Click here Puppy Healthcare Puppies who are not thriving should be examined as soon as possible by a veterinarian to check for birth defects. Some defects, such as a cleft palate are not compatible with life. These puppies should be humanely euthanized. Dewclaws are removed and tails docked at days of age. Make an appointment with your veterinarian for these procedures to be done. Check your breed's standard, as some breeds need to have dewclaws left intact in order to show. Tail length changes, so again, the current breed standard should be consulted. When the puppies are at the clinic and having these procedures done, the mother should be taken for a walk around the block until the puppies are done. She should not be close enough to the clinic to hear the puppies crying. Once they are put back with the mother, the puppies normally nurse and then sleep. Vaccinations are started at weeks of age. Some breeders give a parvo virus vaccine at 5 weeks of age, if the puppies are at a high-risk. Ask your veterinarian if your puppies should be vaccinated early for parvo virus. They recommend puppy deworming for roundworms and hookworms start at 2 weeks of age and be repeated at 4, 6, and 8 weeks of age. Thereafter, use a heart worm preventive medication that is also effective against hookworms and roundworms. Foster and Smith suggest that owners of newly acquired puppies obtain the deworming history of their new pup and contact their veterinarian to determine if additional deworming is needed. The mother should be dewormed at the same time as the puppies. A health check done by a veterinarian at weeks of age before the puppies head for new homes should include checks for heart murmurs, hernias, cryptorchidism, demodectic mange, other parasites, eye disorders, etc. Normal puppy development The umbilical cord normally falls off within days of birth. Infections of the umbilicus are rare in clean, well-managed kennels. Puppies normally twitch and jerk while sleeping. This helps with the development of their nerves and muscles. The puppies crawl well by days, walk at 16 days, and have a normal gait at 21 days. They need to be on footing that offers traction. By 4 weeks of age, the puppies follow each other and carry toys in their mouths. They will play-fight with each other and learn how to inhibit their bites. If a puppy bites a littermate too hard, the littermate will yelp and stop playing with him. If the puppy is allowed to bite humans, he will not learn to inhibit his bite. It may be cute as a 7-week old, but it will not be as a 7-year old. Puppies are born without teeth. The deciduous baby teeth start to erupt at weeks of age. All of the deciduous teeth are usually present by 8 weeks of age. The puppies' eyes will open around days of age. The retina matures around 21 days of age. Puppies should see clearly by 4 weeks of age. Do not pry open the lids for any reason, as the immature eye is not yet ready to handle light. If the eyes appear swollen before they open, take the puppy to a veterinarian immediately as an eye infection may be present that needs to be treated to prevent loss of vision. Some puppies will take a day to open the eyes while others will take days. The eyes will have a bluish color to them at first and then change to their adult color over time. If the eyes appear white or solid blue, take the puppy to the veterinarian right away. The ears open at days of age. They should hear clearly by 4 weeks of age. Deafness may not be noticeable while the puppies are together and first noticed when the puppy is in her new home. Interactions Between the Mother and Puppies By the time the puppies are weeks old, the mother should have an area near the whelping box, but separate from the puppies to allow her time to rest. At about this time, the puppies will start trying to leave the box to explore. They should be well supervised and have safe toys available. The box at this point should be big enough to be divided between eating, sleeping, playing, and eliminating rooms. At this stage, a crate with the door removed and lined with sheepskin or a dog bed can be given to the puppies for sleeping quarters and to familiarize them with crates. Puppy Socialization Early socialization of the puppies will help them become confident and develop fewer behavior problems. The puppies should be exposed to everything possible from metal food dishes dropping, to vacuums, garage doors opening and closing, thunderstorms, sirens, garbage trucks going past, cats, and other pets, etc. Do not try to keep the area quiet during the day. The puppies need to get used to normal household noises. Children should be allowed to play outside the whelping box supervised so they do not enter the box or drop toys in , as children behave differently than adults. Everything the puppy is exposed to now, will help her become a well-socialized, unafraid adult. The puppies should be handled several times a day. They can be picked up, their teeth looked at, ears checked, toes played with nails will need a weekly trimming , and have anything that may be done as an adult started slowly now. Play helps to develop the puppy's mind, as he needs to find solutions to problems he encounters. If the puppies are not in new homes by 10 weeks of age, they should be separated from each other for a large part of the day and given one-on-one time with humans. They can have play times during the day, but they should eat, sleep, and be handled separately. Being in a kennel group situation beyond weeks of age decreases trainability. Ready to start saving money on pet wellness care? Then take a look at Mint Wellness, the pet wellness plan that provides fast reimbursement on routine pet care. Save on vaccinations, wellness exams, preventatives, dental, and more! Understanding how dogs physically, mentally and emotionally develop from birth to 6 months — Part 1 — By Jennifer Broome, QK Owner I decided to write this article because I am amazed at the lack of understanding out there in our society when it comes to dogs. Our newer puppy programs have been incredibly successful with our diligent introduction of crate work, patience training, manners, proper socializing and obedience and it is wonderful to educate new owners. However, we sadly still see many dogs that just are handicapped mentally and emotionally as adolescents due to their owners lacking leadership and early puppy training to establish rules, confinement, patience and manners. I am someone who lives my life with dogs and for dogs. This article is not based on scientific research, veterinary information, or other technical sources rather it is based on my ongoing observations from a variety of experiences. Those include my own revolving pack of dogs over 25 years, my professional time at my kennel with dozens upon dozens dogs even upwards of at times as well as my countless hours training dogs at all levels from puppies to adolescents, problem dogs and sporting dogs from basic to advanced training. They do this for comfort, security and protection. Any good dog breeder equally has a whelping box which is typically a 4 foot by 4 foot box with sides, maybe a heated dish and nice bedding for Mom to birth her puppies. Pups are born into a sheltered environment and they feel secure. By 4 weeks Mom starts to wean her pups, all heck breaks loose as the pups now are very mobile, their eyes are opened and this weaning is the first big stressor in their lives. At this point puppy kibble is offered, the pups make a huge mess in their boxes, and soon they learn how to climb out. There is MUCH more that goes on during the whelping, nursing, puppy rearing and puppy development during these 8 weeks however I want to concentrate this article on what happens once the new owner acquires the pup. A very cleverly designed whelping box with escape resting area for Mom, sleeping area for pups and separate potty area. NOTE: I am talking about pups that come from responsible breeders and were raised in a safe, healthy environment. Sadly we see all too many rescue pups that were birthed by an already unstable, unhealthy mom, they were born under a shed, an alley, or at a puppy mill and their young lives are already stressed. Between 7 and 8 weeks is a great time to get a new puppy. I certainly do not oppose some breeders keeping pups longer I do NOT advocate pups going home before 7 weeks! As long as the pups are well monitored by the careful breeder, they can stay longer to mature more. YES, all puppies typically hate their crates at first. More like they hate the alone time as they are used to a pack of friends for safety and security. While the first week or 2 of crate training may be horrendous, noisy and stressful for you and puppy, once the pup learns to accept this alone time and controlled down time, it is one of the very best training achievements that you can master right away! There will be screaming, wailing, temper tantrums, messes in the crate and pup may sound like he is dying… BUT with patience, persistence and a good strategy crate training is typically easy to master. Why go through all of this stress? Why subject a puppy to this trauma!? Well, honestly think about it… as a baby did you sleep in a crib? Yes, that may work…. BUT what happens when you want to leave your house? Do you think that it is ok to leave a puppy home alone and loose with free roam or even confined to a room? An 8 week old puppy is about the same in maturity as a toddler. Would you leave a toddler home alone? A 6 month old puppy is like a 6 year old child. Again would you leave alone? A year old puppy is like an 8 to 10 year old child. Home alone? They are not even mature adults until 3 years old. That is like an 18 year human. We all made such great decisions and had complete maturity and responsibility at 18 right!!?? See where I am going with this? What does a crate help to accomplish? Forced down time, patience time, alone time, relaxation time. The pup can sleep or keep busy with a good chew toy to keep self-entertained. A tired puppy is a happy puppy is a happy owner! Pups often sleep upwards of 18 hours a day. Why not make those sleeping 18 hours safely confined to a crate? Maybe 8 hours overnight straight and the remaining 10 sleeping times divided up during the day. This type of schedule allows pup to be safely contained therefore not chewing, getting hurt or going potty in the house. It also enables the pup to feel secure and not just loose in a big scary area. Here is where most people go wrong, they feel the crate is cruel and they leave a pup out loose. Well, they could not be more wrong. Sadly, when a dog is left alone in an entire house, part of a house or even a room, the pup still feels the need to guard and protect that area. That is like asking a toddler to stay home alone and watch the house! Believe it or not the more rules and structure you can provide to your pup the more secure they feel! Puppies that learn to relax in a crate grow up into dogs that have a great off switch and can be loose to feel secure and safe. We talked about the importance and reasons for crate time, how about the human interactions? Do YOU instigate play jumping and biting by showing excitement around your pup. Do you rough house, play tug, chase or wrestle with your pup. Human interactions should be gentle in touch and kindness, however assertive to correct unwanted behaviors right away. If you want a bad behavior to stop, then use as little pressure as you can but as much as you need to in order to STOP the bad behavior. Just because he is a puppy does not mean he will outgrow biting, jumping, etc. Rather it will only get worse. Stop it right away. Wow I love this! I treat my dogs the same way. The more you stroke, pet, pat, or rough up a dog the more they will challenge you. Those are actually antagonistic interactions. How about you calmly, lightly, endearingly touch your pup. What spots can you find that sooth your pup to relax and fall asleep just by your touch? They close their eyes and relish in your touch. This gentle interaction calms, soothes and connects you to your dog and teaches them to chill, be still and respectful around humans. Sadly what do most people do? The wigglier a dog is, the more excited they are. Excitement in dogs is anxiety, so basically you are initiating a panic attack by causing your dog to quiver with stress. Why not use animal savvy and teach them your touch calms them. I promise! What does this mean? He or she can walk on a leash, they can learn to do stairs, get into a car, go into a crate by themselves, listen to the vacuum, and they can be exposed to early stressors and be just fine as long as you show a calm, strong, positive leadership! People are so quick to lift up their pups, do the work for them, make excuses or simply let them refuse to face a challenge. This only makes the pups better quitters and ones that show a very strong resistance with a fight, freeze or flight when asked to tackle simple physical challenge. So fellow dog lovers, I hope that this article gave you some things to think about! Whether you are getting a new puppy or can go back and think about the mistakes you may have previously made, our goal at QK is to help you better understand your dog, how they think and what you can do to help be a better leader. In turn I promise your dog will be happier, healthier and better behaved. Look ahead in the next series of this topic to explore the 6 month pup and how they grow, mature and develop. For heating the pups in the whelping box particle board construction with adjustable entrance and pig rails , we have a lectro-kennel pad in part of it. There is a window into the rest of the shop from the room; for mama dogs' sake, I wish we had a window to the outside.But it's not a kennel setup, so it's not perfect. The pups stay in this room for weeks.When they are big enough to move outside, they spend the nights in a chain-link fenced kennel about 8 x 13 feet on gravel. If they have to be kenneled while we're home, then we can open that up to an adjacent kennel the same size. Puppy pen- I wouldn't use hogwire. We've had pups almost hang themselves in the stuff really young pups can hang up in diamond chain link too ; albeit I think the hogwire type fence we used had smaller increments than regular hogwire. Anyways, we supervised them closely when they were in this pen. Size-wise I think the largest you can provide, the better, as long as it's safe. We've used 10x10 too but it just seemed too small especially when they were weeks old. The cement blocks should work fine. Our puppy pens are on the grass and then we just move it around the yard when the grass seems to be getting too worn out.