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Exercises Grooming From ancient Germany precisely around the 19th century had the now extinct mastiff breed Bullenbeisser and bulldogs brought in from England. At the time of their arrival, they served as hunting dogs for bears, deer, and other ferocious beasts, it would capture the prey with the help of its awesome teeth and detain it until the hunter arrives. And in the first boxer standard club was launched with a comprehensive document that is still in use today. Shortly after, the breed made its way into other European countries and got into the U. S in the late 19th century with the American Kennel Club taking registration of its first boxer around .During the first world war, boxers played the role of a military dog as a pack-carrier, a guard dog, and an attack dog, later they were taken home by the soldiers and got introduced into the domestic world as a show dog, best companion, and a reliable guard. One with so much life, energetic, curious, attentive, active, smart, sociable and incredible fun with children is the boxer, they are also known to be very patient and highly protective of their family members making them the love and desire of many homes. As active dogs, they need a lot of exercise to keep them mentally fit, apparently having a mind of its own, you will find your boxer entertain itself by digging the ground often, chewing, and licking the mouth to beat boredom. They are also very stubborn in character which makes them a terrible choice for first-timers with dogs, they are generally a bit difficult with adult dogs including dogs of a similar breed but friendly with puppies. They usually do not bark unless there is a genuine reason behind it but they love to growl. If you have occupied home with people around all the time or you want a canine buddy the whole time, then a boxer is just the perfect breed to get. Being a highly active dog, they dread loneliness and they can cope finely in both a house and an apartment as long as you provide it with enough room and spaces for exercises and activities. What you must have is a large yard if you are living in a house for it to dig the ground and run around as it likes. And more so, if you are given to being away from home most of the time, getting a boxer may not be the best for you and the dog, because they usually get aggressive when left alone. Boxers are known as loud snorers and they drool greatly too. Boxers are playful and very energetic dogs as such regular exercises are part of a good canine relationship, especially a breed of this sort. Your boxer should be allowed to play in a fenced area and on-leashed since it is likely to jump and leap around in excitement. This puts a boxer as a bad choice for a frail owner as they may find it a tad impossible and daunting keeping up with its excessive activity demands. Being a breed with a short and thin coat its grooming demands are quite easy and little, all it needs is a light brushing of the hair twice every week to maintain its good and gleeful looks. Bathing should be a once in a while since boxers are generally clean dogs and its nails, be trimmed once every month or as often as they grow worn on surfaces, its teeth should also be brushed daily to avoid tartar formation and other dental crises. Our Boxer puppies for sale come from either USDA licensed commercial breeders or hobby breeders with no more than 5 breeding mothers. We only purchase puppies from the very best sources, and we stand behind every puppy we sell. Frequently Asked Questions Are Boxers good family pets? Yes, boxers are particularly fond of their family members especially when goodly trained. Are Boxers trainable? Though the boxers can be a little headstrong, they are very intelligent and with a proper training environment, they respond well. Are Boxers friendly with kids? They are very fond of children and they love playing games with them. Are Boxers friendly with other animals? Boxers are naturally patient with puppies, pooches and small animals but a bit unaccommodating of adult dogs and other animals. Are Boxers good apartment dogs? They can live anywhere you make as a home all you need is to provide it with enough space for exercise. How is Boxers shedding? Given the shortness of their coat, they shed minimally and occasionally, you can also regulate the shedding by frequent brushing of their coat. Are Boxers good for first-time owners? Not quite, as their exercise needs are way too high for their inexperienced hands. Are Boxers loud barkers? But growling is a thing they do most. Are Boxers tolerable to heat and cold? All they need is moderate exposure to heat and cold because of their thin fur body. How long can Boxers live? The average life-span of boxers is 10 years Are you interested in purchasing a Boxer? Fill out the below form and we'll get back to you as soon as possible. Our kennel is located in New Braunfels, Texas. It is about 45 minutes from Austin and 30 minutes from San Antonio. New Braunfels, Texas is best known for river tubing and for its awesome water park, Schlitterbahn. Our family consists of our sons Andrew and Alex, my wife Dalia and myself. Both my son and I are really into boxers. I got my first pair of boxers about ten years ago. It was a boy named Scooby and a girl named Chata. They both had awesome personalities and were really fun to be around. Unfortunely I had to let them go in when my son was born. Our first boxer was a boy named Max. We got him when he was about 7 weeks old. He and my son were inseparable. They would chase each other around the house, take each others toys and even took naps together. In , we got our girl named Sugar Diva. She is more laid back, but is always on alert. She sometimes thinks she is one of the big dogs. She likes to run along side our boxers and even out running them at times. She acts like my sons little sister chasing him around the house, pulling on his pants and sleeping next to him at night. Max and Sugar Diva had their first litter in December .From there we kept our second girl named Memee. My son got her name from watching Clifford the Big Red Dog. In the show Clifford has a friend named Memee. In , we got our third girl named Xena. She is very calm, but very smart. She knows how to sit, beg and speak. A couple months later we got our stallion named T-Bone. My son is also responsible for his name. He is everything we wanted in a male boxer. He is tall, obedient, lovable and playful. In , our little boston terrier Princess had her first and only litter. She had 5 puppies that all went to family members well except for one. We kept the biggest boy named Rusty. He is my wife's bubblegum following her everywhere she goes. In fall , we had our last 2 litters of American boxers. While our love for the American boxer is very deep, we are now focused on raising European boxers. European boxers are a little shorter but they have bigger chest, bigger heads and more muscle definition. They have the same great personalities as American boxers do: playful, lovable and intelligent. They are breed to be both show and working dogs. Sandman Boxers have been a big help to us because he has shown us what to look for in a European boxer. He has been been raising both American and European boxers for some time now and has a great deal of experience with breeders from overseas. In we got our newest import, Talia. She is high energy and very playful. We are looking forward to raising not only great family companions but also healthy, intelligent and show potential boxers. We hope that you find our website both entertaining and informative. Once again thank you for visiting our website and hopefully choosing one of our boxers to be your next family companion. 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Staff The puppies, just a day after we found them in a box. I know because I found one on an annual sojourn to Baja. But sometimes, the saddest thing can turn into something so happy it hurts. Such was the case with this story. It was a beautiful evening. My girlfriend Stevie and I were driving our rusty old camper van towards town, creaking our way along a washboard road towards a goodbye dinner. She had a flight booked for the next day to go back to work in northern Alberta, a cold, desolate place filled with money and unhappy, transient workers, and we were on our way to drink too much tequila and laugh about how incredible the last few weeks had been. Behind us, the sun dumped buckets of orange-hued paint at the foot of a rapidly darkening horizon. That incredibly fine Mexican dust swirled around the tires as we drove, coating the sidewalls and windows like soft velvet, shafts of light from the setting sun piercing it, setting it ablaze with dazzlingly bright motes of dust that caught the light and flickered like fireflies. To the north, an arroyo was stopped in its tracks by a massive rocky headland that fell dramatically into the Pacific. As we came to a bend in the road at the foot of a small hill, I spotted a tiny creature on wobbly legs being herded off the road towards an open patch by two skinny, mangy dogs. Should we stop? When our feet hit the ground, we changed not only our trip but the trip of everyone on the beach we were camping on. The trip was a long time coming. We ended up living on the street in Venice, parking in different spots most nights, pissing in kitty litter jugs, dodging the Venice two a. Mexico was to be my redeemer. It was to be the trip I promised… but what I promised did not include a box of diseased puppies that might soon be dead. Advertisement We stopped and got out of the van, then watched as the puppy was flipped into a wax lettuce box by the mangy adult dog. There was no sound from the puppy, nor from the box itself—not a whimper or a whine—but it was evident that the box was full. On closer inspection, we found what looked to be seven tiny puppies, perhaps five weeks old, covered in fleas, ticks, sores, and an incredible amount of vomit and shit. For a minute, we considered leaving them. I needed to get back to the office and Stevie needed to be back at her job in the northernmost reaches of Alberta. As it would be for anyone, though, it was impossible to drive away, so we began scooping the puppies out of the box and putting them on a blanket from the van. It was horrible. As it turned out, there were eight. The eighth, who would be named Emmy, was at the bottom, curled in a fetal position, her little eyes shut tightly. She was the runt, and her brothers and sisters lay on top of her, voiding themselves of their sicknesses as worms and parasites ravaged their tiny bodies. At first glance, she seemed dead. We pulled her limp and lifeless body out of the box, fleas leaping off her in frightening numbers, her patchy, wiry fur coursing with them. Setting her down on the blanket, however, she stood briefly on her own, opened her dull eyes slightly, looked up at us, then collapsed back into her fetal position. The adult dogs looked on carefully, growling deep in their throats, as we tried to clean the puppies up as best as we could. Instead, they were more likely to be two other strays that happened on the box and took it upon themselves to protect them as best as they could. With time, they backed off and watched from the roadside. For the next few days, they could often be found just a few hundred yards away pacing back and forth outside a camp nearby. After a while, though, they vanished into the dust and the puppies stayed with us. And then something incredible happened: the entire community of traveling campers on that beach came together to make sure these sick little creatures would be alright. There was one person in particular who assumed the brunt of the responsibility. Reynolds, a soft-spoken tree worker from North Carolina, became the surrogate father to all the dogs. About eight feet in length, it sat in front of his tent beneath a shade cloth, a donated kennel from another camper down the beach serving as a bedroom. Their bellies were massively distended from worms, their noses coated in glossy lice eggs. Their ears were infested with ticks that gorged on their blood, and the fleas were thicker than their mange-ridden fur. She spent her days and nights in his jacket next to his chest, soothed by his body warmth and his heartbeat. For days, the puppies hung on by a thread. Fed by hand with syringes full of puppy milk, they slowly regained their strength. Tentatively, they began playing with each other, nipping gently, mewling like kittens, and fighting over food. Their bellies, still swollen with worms, began to get smaller. With medication from a nearby vet, vast amounts of worms, white and thick as bean sprouts, came out in their shit. Mites infesting their skin died and came to the surface in pus-filled infections, and hatch after hatch of fleas was killed off by endless flea baths and powders. By this time, Stevie and I were supposed to be home. Her shift began the day after we found the box. I called my boss and asked for a more time in Mexico. As the puppies gained strength, the inevitable question arose: what were we going to do with them? We all asked around about local shelters, but most of them were packed to the brim with abandoned dogs. Over-populated and under-funded, Baja dog rescue operations are incredibly sad places run by people with hearts of gold. Slowly, the puppies gained strength. Photo: Lindquist For the next few weeks, a handful of us struggled to make it known that we had puppies that needed homes. We brought them to markets and spread the word through nearby towns, urging anyone and everyone interested in becoming a dog owner to come and have a look. Stevie and I were taking one, but we had no idea which. The other six puppies were homeless, skinny, and although they were rapidly getting better, they were still very sick. It was a worrisome situation. I thought often about what it would be like to drop a few remaining puppies at a shelter and walk away from them, and it was difficult to imagine. All of a sudden, though, things snowballed. A few of us had been wandering between the stalls with armfuls of struggling, floppy puppies, telling anyone who stopped us the story and letting them know they were available for adoption to good homes. The girl, whose name has escaped me, immediately took a shine to Distendo—later to be named Ruca, if memory serves—and, after a brief conversation with her boyfriend, decided to take her. Ruca, not so distended anymore. She was skinny as a rail, feisty as all hell, and desperate for love. By the next morning, Craig and Andrea had decided to become the proud new owners of the newly-named Renny, after Reynolds. A few weeks later, after Craig left, Andrea came and stayed at my house in Malibu on her way north. She parked the Delica on my street and brought Renny up for the evening. She was a different dog: active and happy, it was as though she knew just how lucky she was. Now, she lives in Tofino, Canada, and judging from the videos, is primed for a wonderful life. Renny, working hard on her beard. Firefighters in the winter, Brad and Robin are deep wells of adventure stories, permanently smiling and seemingly unfazed by anything and everything the rigors of travel can throw at them. They slept with the dogs in their camper for two months, continuing their exploration of Baja, before driving through the US and eventually dropping the dogs off in a small town on Vancouver Island to their to use a horribly over-used foster dog phrase forever-home. On the way home to their new home. Of the eight, I felt that she would be the last to go. Then, an extraordinarily nice family appeared on the road. A gaggle of giggling children and two even-keeled, amazingly happy parents chose her from the pack, and Chihuahua Girl became Daisy. Daisy in North Carolina, interested in these strange new creatures. After a difficult goodbye, he left Emmy with me and Stevie. Ocho Guacamole, testing out van life… better than box life. After a week with Emmy and Ocho in the van, Stevie and I packed them into kennels and squished them under the seats of a bound for Vancouver. Ocho, as he does, cried like a baby half the time, only quieted by handfuls of dog food. After a surprisingly easy border crossing thanks to an amazing Mexican vet who may or may not have fudged their birthdates by a few days , a short stay in a hotel, and another quick plane ride to Vancouver Island, we were home. The van stayed in Mexico in a storage area for quick strike missions, along with most of my surfboards, all my bedding, and nearly every pot and pan in my kitchen. Ocho on left, Emmy on the right. Their first day in Canada. Reynolds then flew from North Carolina to Seattle, rented a car, drove across the border to Vancouver, took a ferry to Vancouver Island, picked up Emmy, then turned around and did the whole thing in reverse, only this time, he had his little girl with him, hidden in the backseat of the rental car when he crossed the border. She was so small and so helpless in the bottom of that box on the side of the road. Now, after a chance encounter on a dusty road at the southern tip of Baja, here she was in Canada, waiting for the man who literally saved her life with body warmth, hand-feeding, and love. Reynolds, though, needed her. And she needed him. Emmy, a far cry from that shriveled little creature who had given up on life. Surf trips are fun, but ultimately not all that rewarding. Surfing is a selfish pursuit. A wave has to be mind-blowing for the memory to last a lifetime. Surfing is just the vessel for the real experience. Yeah, the waves were fun, but waves will always be fun. That box full of half-dead, shit-covered little dogs? Photo: Lindquist. Photograph by Robin Schwartz When I was a child, my greatest dream was to find a box full of puppies. And every shoebox, every discarded Manhattan Mini Storage vessel had the potential to change my life. By the time they were fully grown, they would follow me down the streets of SoHo, off-leash. In reality, I was deeply dog-less. My first and worst pet was a newt that choked to death on a bad worm. Next came a hairless cat my mother bought on Greene Street. We lived in what was essentially one big room, on Broadway. My mother had been the proud owner of Cindy, a shepherd-collie mix with serious aggression issues and a pathological obsession with Ritz crackers. At the age of six, my mother was both her captor and her protector. When it was really hot, he liked to run to the riverbank and roll in dead eels. He survived a German-shepherd attack in which he lost part of an ear. Both these dogs seemed to me like outcasts, kooks, pains in the ass who the adults secretly wished would just succumb to their own vices already. When I was fifteen, I took the box-of-puppies fantasy into my own hands. Walking down the main drag of Brooklyn Heights, where we now lived, I stopped to pet a tan mutt, the mascot of an animal-rescue group that had set up a booth at the corner of Montague and Hicks. There were several girls and a man. I do remember, though, that what came next was a very bad afternoon. It involved my dreams coming true and the empty dread that often follows that experience. I climbed into a van with Elias Koteas, who told me that there was a pit-bull mother dead in a box! Just think of the puppies—three of them, he had said, their bodies cold, starving. In the van, one of his colleagues, a silent frizzy-haired woman, filled dog bowls with dirty water. I could hear it sloshing as we rumbled down Atlantic Avenue. It was dusk by the time we reached the parking lot. It had started to drizzle. Elias Koteas told me to follow him, and I did, to a shipping crate in the corner of the lot. I peered in. They were barely puppies. More like kidney beans, slick and cool, eyes still sealed shut. They whimpered, but quietly, no louder than baby birds. Elias Koteas urged me back to the van. I wandered for blocks, the puppies hidden in my orange parka. I saw a laundromat and went inside to get warm. Someone noticed the puppies and suggested that I stuff them into the socks without mates sitting atop a dryer, which I did. The office was just closing, but I opened my coat and flashed the receptionist my puppies, like a freelance salesman on Canal Street, and she quickly ushered me in. The vet was a young, sweet man. Definitely Jewish, which is something I care about only in times of crisis. He checked each dog for a cleft palate and explained that I had to feed them every two hours, and that I should rub their anuses with a hot cloth to express their bowels. It never occurred to me to ask whether the vet might keep them there, at the office, where the staff was better equipped for transient pit-bull infants than a fifteen-year-old girl might be. After all, my parents were on a trip to California and my sister, Grace, was only nine. On the walk home, I named them—Uno, Bruno, and Devo. Imagine how lively our house would be when we had three grown pit bulls! I presented them to the babysitter, who reacted with the only appropriate emotion: horror. I was too old for a babysitter but still too young to be trusted alone with Grace. The first night, I woke up every hour on the hour, heated the bottles, rubbed the anuses. It was the weekend, so I had all the time in the world to spend with them. But by the end of the second afternoon I was an Octomom-style mess. She lived in Bay Ridge and was agoraphobic, she explained, so there was no way she could meet me to collect the puppies. Besides, she said, she had no room at all. I waited until my father got home, then made him do it, but I refused to join my family in the car, claiming that it was too painful a goodbye. While they were gone, I holed up with a boy I vaguely liked who had a very chapped lower lip. We did, eventually, get a family dog. I was very invested in him for a short while, until I started watching Criterion Collection movies and eating meat and getting generally more excited about human company. The misfit child no longer needed a companion, and the terrier was ignored, like the Velveteen Rabbit. Nothing about my life these days makes me an especially good candidate for having a dog. I have issues waking up. I am one step away from doing that awful rom-com thing where a New York City working woman with limited space but unlimited pluck fills her oven with sweaters and shoes. I also realize that writing about dogs is a very tricky business. Or perhaps your words will have the droopy intelligence of a Thurber dog. The same caveats apply to conversation about dogs. Just discussing your dog can be as tiresome and offensive as talking about the weather, your own dreams, or the newest wrinkle in your married sex life. At least when people talk about their children, there is a chance that the kid will grow up to be President. After what feels like decades of making ill-advised forays into Spartan Chinatown living rooms and pretending to enjoy wine, I have met someone I love and respect, and I want to make decisions that honor and consider him. It would be a mistake to create a situation that compromised his comfort or made him less likely to squeeze me all night long. My boyfriend is allergic to dogs. Nevertheless, the itch returned last year, when, during an extended existentialist spin-out, the same family dog I had abandoned so many years ago dragged himself to my side and refused to leave. Suddenly, I find myself Googling dogs, looking into their dumb dog faces, reading about which foods will poison them grapes, chocolate, some sugarless gums and which celebrities love them Glenn Close. I imagine how much better everything would be with a dog. Walks to get the paper or a bagel. Long car trips, a wild head of Einstein-y fur in my lap. Sitting on the couch, reading a book, and occasionally flicking his ear with my toe. The rescue people dump his tags and toys into a plastic evidence bag, as if he were leaving prison. It should be noted that this place is an entirely professional operation. Quiet, limp as a sack of laundry, he kisses me softly whenever he has the chance. Everyone tells me how lucky I am. Friday, I drop him at day care. That afternoon, my sister breaks up with her girlfriend. I tell her she should sleep over, and she agrees. We all go to dinner and then pick up Lamby, who bounds out of day care and into the sub-zero night to greet us. I am lucky. But the minute we arrive home it gets weird: Lamby picks up a stuffed toy in his mouth and shakes it hard, as if to break its neck. My boyfriend reaches his hand out to calm him and Lamby lunges, biting him. In the bathroom a little while later, we are brushing our teeth when Lamby saunters in, calm, like your college roommate the day after an acid trip, acting like everything is normal. I promise. He bounces slightly, shocked, then curls his tail around one crooked leg and heads for the front door, where he barks loudly at no one. At bedtime, I shut Lamby in the living room with my sister, who needs the comfort, but, a moment later, it starts: the sound. Something between a sob and a siren, it is how Lamby expresses a doleful emotion that he experiences roughly twice a day. My boyfriend nods, a good sport with a long red scratch on his forearm. Lamby trots in, does several laps around the room, then stretches across the foot of the bed. You know, a creature. That might bite my feet. What have I done? We had such a nice life. I cling to my boyfriend and pull my feet up close the way I did when I was a little girl and thought alligators lived at the bottom of the bed, waiting to snap. Finally, everything settles. It seems as though we could sleep this way every night and even come to love it. What was I so anxious about? A siren wakes me at 3 A. Lamby stands, ready to fight. I kneel over her and she shows me the offending text message. Lamby makes himself busy, circling her, placing a spitty chew toy on any exposed skin he can find. Once she calms down, he does, too. On the arm of the couch. This is where we will stay. But any attempt on my part to be alone—meditating, showering, walking out into the hallway to dump trash down the chute—results in that same siren sound. Sometimes he takes a break to flash his erection at me, red as a sunburn and made even more vulgar by the jaunty bandanna the groomer has tied around his neck. At night, he conks out around ten. My building skews old. So when an ambulance pulls up to our door I never panic. Lamby does. One night, an ambulance is parked outside from 3 A. I try shutting the blinds. Covering his ears. Pushing him out of my bedroom. The ambulance leaves, but Lamby starts again when the woman below me coughs, a deep weak rumble that I often mistake for male sounds of sexual pleasure or the evening news. At A. Before I even knew about you, I was waiting for you. When you were born, I was only twenty-five years old. But I needed you. He wakes up only one more time in the night, with a single bark that trails into silence. I kiss his little mouth, his ears that smell like corn chips and old water. I love you. I love you so much. He is mine, and I am old enough to have him. We are all adults here. Read More.

How much you feed the puppy will depend on how much they weigh. If you are using a brand of puppy milk replacer, they may have directions on the side of the box. Otherwise, you can follow these general guidelines: If they are under eight ounces of weight, you should feed them one cc of milk per ounce of weight. If they are between 8 and 24 ounces, you should feed them one and a half cc of milk per ounce of weight. If they are over 28 ounces, you should feed them one ounce of milk per pound of weight. You can buy powdered or premade puppy milk replacer at a pet store, vet's office, or online. You can also make your own. Prepare the milk substitute according to its directions, and place it in the microwave to heat it up for 3 to 5 seconds. Make sure that the milk is warm, but not hot, before feeding the puppy. You can make homemade puppy milk substitute by mixing 10 ounces of goats milk, one tablespoon light corn syrup, one cup of plain white whole milk yogurt, and one egg yolk. Always use whole not low-fat dairy products. You can buy these in pre-prepared cans or in powder form. If you cannot get puppy milk replacer or make a homemade substitute in the first 24 hours, you can use pedialyte instead. This is not a long term solution, however. In general, you should use a 12 cc feeding syringe or a syringe without the needle. Using the measurements on the side, fill it with the proper amount of milk substitute based on the puppy's weight. This is a long tube that will be placed down the puppy's esophagus. Once you have attached it, draw a little formula through the tube until a drop or two comes out the other side. Place this tube in the puppy's mouth. They may suck on the end of the tube, helping you slowly guide the tube to the back of their throat. If you have never tube fed a puppy before, ask your vet to show you how to properly do this part. Your vet may be able to provide you with a feeding tube, and they can mark on the tube exactly how far the tube should go. Lay the puppy on your lap with one hand behind the puppy's head. Hold the syringe vertical above the puppy's head, and slowly press down on the plunger. If you go too quickly, the milk might go up into their nose or they might get air in their stomach. If you notice milk dribbling out of their nose or mouth, stop. Once you are done, pinch the end of the tube, and quickly remove it from the puppy's mouth. Hold the puppy up against your shoulder, with their belly against your shoulder and their head on your shoulder. Gently pat their back until they burp. This will help release any air that accidentally got in their stomachs during tube feeding. Typically, the mother licks the puppy to help the puppy relieve themselves before or after nursing. In the mother's place, you will have to do this instead. Take a warm, damp washcloth, cottonball or tissue. Gently rub around the puppy's genitals and anus until they urinate and defecate. Newborns may need to be fed every two hours for the first week or two. After that, you can start feeding them every three to four hours. By the time they're 12 ounces, you can start feeding them every five hours. A cleft palate is an opening along the middle of the palate. This opening can range from small a few millimeters to severe the entire length of the hard and soft palate. This results in a lack of tissue connection between the mouth and nasal passages, creating problems for the dog that include eating, difficulty nursing, and poor growth. Symptoms of Cleft Palate in Dogs Symptoms of a cleft palate in dogs can be easy to notice and even visible. Cleft palate in dogs can also create various health issues due to its structure. These symptoms can include: Difficulty nursing: Puppies with a cleft palate are unable to create enough suction when nursing because the oral cavity is open to the nasal cavity. The milk or food the dog does manage to get travels from the mouth to the nose, causing sneezing, nasal discharge, nasal irritation also known as rhinitis , regurgitation, and gagging. Poor growth: Without the ability to nurse and eat normally, many puppies and dogs with cleft palate do not get proper nutrition and can be lethargic, with a poor rate of growth. Aspiration pneumonia: Breathing in food and water can cause an infection of the lungs. Facial deformity: Occasionally, dogs with cleft palate will also have a facial deformity, such as cleft lip. Other issues: Though they are not always apparent at first, and depend on the cause of the cleft palate, problems with the inner ear, middle ear, swallowing apparatus, nasal septum, sinuses, and teeth may develop. Causes of Cleft Palate in Dogs There are two types of cleft palate in dogs: Congenital cleft palate is present at birth if the palate fails to fuse properly during days of gestation. This can occur for a variety of reasons: Genes: Most congenital cleft palates are genetic. Therefore, dogs with any level of cleft palate should be spayed or neutered and not used for breeding purposes. Nutrition: Cleft palates can occur with too much dietary vitamin A or a lack of folic acid during pregnancy. Medications: Most notably, steroids, aspirin, griseofulvin, and some anti-seizure medications during pregnancy can cause cleft palate in puppies. Viruses: If the mother is exposed to certain viruses at a specific time during pregnancy, her puppies may be born with cleft palate. Acquired cleft palate is a new defect that appears in a previously normal palate. Some common brachycephalic breeds predisposed to cleft palates include Boston terriers, Pekingese, Boxers, and Bulldogs. Other breeds that may have congenital cleft palate include: Miniature schnauzers. A dog may only have one deformed nostril depending on the shape and position of the cleft. You can't immediately see the opening extending inside the mouth along the hard or soft palates that accompany a lip or nostril deformity. Upper or Bottom Teeth Stick out of the Mouth Depending on the shape and position of the defect, the dog's upper or bottom teeth and gums may awkwardly stick out of the mouth. This is due to the excess fluid entering the nasal passages. Coughing or Gagging When Drinking or Nursing Coughing or gagging when attempting to drink water will also occur since some of this water is going down the trachea instead of the esophagus. A dog breeder may recognize a problem if a newborn puppy is having trouble nursing because it can't latch on to its mother or a bottle. Milk may be coming out of its nose or it may cough and gag when attempting to nurse. Malnourished These deformities and the fact that food and water can go down the airway make eating difficult so a dog may be malnourished if it isn't eating enough. Difficulty Breathing Difficulty breathing may occur if too much fluid goes down the airway as well. What Causes Cleft Palate in Dogs? A cleft palate is a congenital problem. This means that a dog is born with this problem making it a genetic condition. However, the puppy's mother may have encountered nutritional deficiencies, viruses, and poisons during pregnancy that resulted in the birth defect, as well. Purebred dogs are more likely to have the condition than mixed breeds. Breeds with brachycephalic syndrome appear to be especially at risk. A cleft palate is often noticed when a newborn puppy is not gaining weight and eating well. This exam finding is a key indicator that there may be a cleft palate inside the puppy's mouth if it's not already visible. Since there are a few different kinds of cleft palates, it may not be externally visible and the inside of the mouth will need to be examined. The roof or back of the mouth will have an opening in it if the dog has a cleft palate. A small light or special oral examination tool called a laryngoscope may be needed to see the opening, especially in a small puppy. Occasionally sedation is needed to examine this abnormality. How to Treat Cleft Palate Depending on the type of cleft palate, corrective surgery may be necessary to try and fix the deformity. Depending on the severity, sometimes supportive care including tube feeding and starting the puppy on solid foods as soon as possible can be pursued until able to surgery can be performed. A temporary prosthesis or a mouth appliance is another possibility to successfully feed a puppy until it is old enough for surgery at about three or four months of age. Prognosis for Dogs With a Cleft Palate Many puppies that have cleft palates are often euthanized shortly after birth due to the difficulty in feeding. Though surgery may be an option, it is risky when done on young dogs that are possibly malnourished and may have other complications like aspiration pneumonia. It also is usually a costly procedure with a low success rate and major post-surgical care. However, if the cleft is small and surgery is elected, the post-surgical prognosis is very good. How to Prevent Cleft Palate Since cleft palates are a birth defect, selective breeding may be the only way to try and prevent a cleft palate in a dog. A dog born with a cleft palate should not be used for breeding. Cleft paletes tend to occur more in breeds with certain skull types, especially brachycephalic breeds. Read our editorial process to learn more about how we fact-check and keep our content accurate, reliable, and trustworthy. Pneumonia in dogs. Merck Veterinary Manual. Cleft palate american college of veterinary surgeons - acvs. The defect results in direct communication between the mouth and the nasal cavity. Cleft palate is due to a disorder in the processes that form the skull and jaw during embryonic development. Cleft palate is generally a congenital malformation, which means it is present at birth; unfortunately, there is no DNA test for genetic diseases that can predict the occurrence of this condition in puppies. Hare palates vary in their degree of severity: the defect is usually easily detectable, but a very small defect may be difficult to see in a newborn puppy. For this reason, immediately after whelping, puppies should always be examined for the presence of cleft palate: if cleft palate is identified or suspected, the puppy's chances of survival are very low, and the puppy almost always dies because instead of feeding on mother's milk, it ingests only air. In most cases, cleft palate is hereditary: the genetic determinism of the disease is complex and varies from breed to breed, and in most breeds, the biological determinism remains unknown. Some drugs can disrupt the normal development of the embryo or fetus; these are referred to as teratogenic drugs. Exposure of the mother of the puppies to teratogenic drugs taken during pregnancy can result in the development of cleft palate, which is why it is always a good idea to consult your veterinarian before administering medications and vitamins during pregnancy. Nutritional deficiencies have been identified in the development of cleft palate. For example,folic acid is important for normal neural tube development in embryos. Folic acid deficiency during pregnancy can lead to the birth of puppies with cleft palates. Cleft palate: clinical signs and treatment Clinical signs depend on the extent of the fissure and may include sneezing, coughing, and nasal discharge. Milk may be observed dripping from the nostrils when the puppy attempts to suck: other signs may include difficulty in sucking, weight loss. This situation inevitably leads to the death of the puppy. Puppies with cleft palates are predisposed to chronic rhinitis, laryngotracheitis and aspiration pneumonia. The latter can cause bronchopneumonia, which can be life-threatening for the puppy. Surgical correction may be an option in some cases but on a newborn puppy it is impossible to perform. The procedure is usually delayed until 8 to 24 weeks of age, when there is enough tissue to close the gap and when the puppy's anesthesia is easier to manage. Surgery can be challenging, and the technique used will depend on the location and severity of the cleft. In some cases, more than one surgical procedure may be needed to achieve complete closure. Pups with cleft palates require intensive supportive care, such asregular tube feeding, until surgical correction can be attempted. Tube feeding is not without risks, including regurgitation and aspiration pneumonia. If the puppy can survive for a few weeks, the surgery has an excellent long-term prognosis after surgical correction. Obviously, pups born with cleft palates should never be used in breeding. Prevention of folic acid and cleft palate In women, folic acid supplementation is recommended during gestation to prevent neural tube defects in newborns. In dogs, scientific studies have shown thatfolic acid supplementation has a preventive effect, especially in predisposed breeds. Because neural tube development stops at approximately day 30 of gestation, folic acid supplementation should be started early in pregnancy. In cases of cleft palate induced by drugs administered during pregnancy, folic acid supplementation will have no preventive effect. December 13, .Written by Dr. The result is cleft palates in kittens and puppies whose oral cavity communicates with their nasal passages. This leads to problems eating, swallowing, and receiving enough nutrition, but it also has respiratory implications. While environmental factors during gestation may theoretically yield cleft palates, this is generally regarded as an inherited condition. As such, cleft palates in puppies are far more likely to suffer these defects when they are purebreds. This is especially the case for brachycephalic short-headed breeds and bulldogs. That hole may be larger or smaller and may vary in location closer to the front or back of the mouth , but most are readily identifiable at birth. Some cleft palate defects may extend so far forward as to affect the lip. In that case, the most typical sign that one or more pups in the litter may have a cleft palate involves difficulty suckling and swallowing. Coughing, gagging, and milk bubbling from the nose are typical indicators of cleft palate in puppies, as are sneezing and snorting. Other signs usually in less obvious defects may include the failure of a pup to grow normally, a sudden onset of pneumonia typically from aspiration , or sudden death. This so-called CP1 mutation appears only in this breed. However, if handled with sufficient care and diligence, many of these puppies will survive. If elected, treatment of cleft palate depends largely on the size and location of the defect, and the degree to which the affected puppy is currently affected some pups may already suffer from pneumonia or malnutrition. Bottle or tube-feeding small quantities of milk every two hours is a typical recommendation for neonates. Older pups may transition to solid foods as early as four weeks of age. Assuming no serious complications ensue and pups are healthy enough, surgical correction may be advisable after four weeks of age. Several surgical procedures may be necessary as these pups grow and their palates expand. For this reason, as well as for reasons related to anesthetic risk, surgery is considered a last resort undertaken later in puppyhood when the palate is closer to its adult size. Note: Surgeries for cleft palates in kittens and puppies have historically suffered a low success rate. However, when performed by a board-certified surgeon or board-certified veterinary dentist, puppies tend to enjoy a far higher rate of success. These dogs are at higher risk of upper respiratory infections. Some will suffer a chronic nasal discharge that may or may not be definitively treatable. In general, breeding for exaggerated traits related to a shortened head, snub nose, and compressed airway structure will increase the risk of cleft palates. While there is no concrete evidence to state that cleft palates in puppies or kittens are hereditary, it is believed that genetics play a role in the development of cleft palates. The lifespan of cats and dogs with cleft palates varies, but, unfortunately, the overall life expectancy is relatively short. Unfortunately, because cleft palates are generally present and noticed at birth they are almost always considered a pre-existing condition by pet insurance companies. Veterinary pediatrics—dogs and cats from birth to six months. Philadelphia, Pa: WB Saunders, .Lawler DF. Neonatal and pediatric care of the puppy and kitten. Theriogenology ;70 3 .Macintire DK. Pediatric intensive care. Merck Veterinary Journal. Plunkett SJ. Fading neonatal syndromes. In: Emergency procedures for the small animal veterinarian. Philadelphia, Pa: WB Saunders, ;.The development of the palate includes the soft palate, the rostral frontal hard palate, the premaxilla section of the skull and the lips1. This defect creates an opening between the oral and nasal cavities. This opening is concerning because the puppy will have difficulties nursing leading to malnutrition and may inhale milk into the respiratory system which can lead to a sinus infection or pneumonia.Some dog breeds more commonly present with cleft defects than others suggesting a genetic component to this condition1. Genetic testing the appropriate dog breed may help reduce the chance of producing puppies with this defect, but a breeder must understand the parameters for this testing. When a new litter has one or more affected puppies, what are the treatment options and how successful are they? Hopefully, the more we understand about this congenital abnormality, the more it can be prevented. The oral and nasal cavities become distinct separate openings by fusion of certain tissues during the 23rd to the 28th day in embryonic development1,2,3. To achieve this separation of cavities, five different embryonic structures need to develop appropriately with coordination of a complex series of events including cell growth, cell migration, differentiation, and apoptosis cellular destruction 1,2,3. These five structures are the frontonasal prominence, which will become the primary palate and delineate into the incisors and medial portion of the upper lip. The right and left maxillary prominences, which will develop into the secondary hard palate and lateral portions of the upper lip. Successful fusion of the secondary palate results in complete separation of the nasal and oral cavities. Lastly, the right and left mandibular prominence will develop into the two halves of the lower jaw1,2. Genetics play a prominent role in determining this tissue development. However, the underlying genetic basis for cleft lip and palate is extremely complicated4. There can be many genes involved and only a few have been identified through research. The mode of inheritance for cleft palate depends on the breed of dog affected1. This is known as penetrance of a genetic variant or mutation. Likewise, the expression of a mutation that does present in a dog can be variable and inconsistent1. It may involve just the lip, the lip and palate or only the palate where the cleft is found. When a cleft is the only defect the puppy presents, this is classified as a nonsyndromic1. When a cleft is one of several abnormalities presenting in an affected puppy, these are considered syndromic clefts1. Nonsyndromic clefts are anecdotally more common than syndromic issues, but this may be skewed by the fact that many puppies with syndromic presentations are immediately euthanized and records are not always accurately kept1. Despite being presumptively more common, genetic testing for nonsyndromic clefts is lacking. This is in part due to a multifactorial inheritance pattern which limits the ability to study these types of clefts1. Multifactorial inheritance means many sections of DNA along with external environmental factors are involved. Skipping generations and presenting in atypical patterns, nonsyndromic clefts limit the predictability of inheritance1. The alternative to nonsyndromic clefts is, of course, syndromic clefts. The inheritance of this mutation was determined to be autosomal recessive with variable expression due to the variety of clefts demonstrated.In general, carrier dogs do not have features of the disease but when bred with another carrier of the same mutation, there is a risk of having affected pups. This mutation has not been found in other breeds so, at this time genetic testing is only appropriate for the NSDTR. Certain nutritional changes such as excessive amounts of Vitamin A, much higher than recommended therapeutic levels, or conversely Folic Acid deficiency has been associated with cleft defects5,6,7. When a chemical or drug causes a birth defect, this is called a teratogen. The effects of teratogens on the developing fetus or puppies are based on research across many species. Unfortunately, surgery should be delayed until the puppy is of an age when anesthesia is better tolerated and will not place the puppy at undo risk. This means until that time, the puppy must be carefully managed in terms of feeding and cleaning the oral cavity. Sometimes a stomach tube must be placed to ensure the puppy received adequate nutrition Complications during this time are always possible so owners must be aware of signs of distress or issues with the affected puppy. Non-resolving sinus infections or pneumonia regularly require lengthy and aggressive veterinary treatment. Clefts that only affect the lip may not be more than a cosmetic problem, but any defect in the palate will require considerable effort from the owner. Often, owners will elect to euthanize these dogs soon after birth. The best surgical time is at the discretion and experience of the veterinarian, but 4 to 6 months of age is a common time when this issue is addressed11, Surgery prior to the eruption of the permanent teeth may cause further dental issues later11, By 6 months of age the tissue around the cleft defect has mostly stabilized and the success of the corrective procedure is improved. The surgery itself depends on the planning of the veterinary surgeon. This can be done in a single procedure, but often requires multiple efforts to fully correct the defect. Post-surgical complications are common, and owners must be prepared for arduous postoperative care11, These defects create an opening between the nasal and oral cavities. This is concerning for the puppy as it prevents them from nursing properly. This leads to severe nutritional deficiencies or respiratory disease. Multiple locations during embryonic development produce the normal anatomy that separate the nasal and oral cavities. Any disruption in this development may produce a range of cleft defects. Although several breeds are suspected of having genetic mutations that cause cleft defects, the Nova Scotia duck tolling retriever has had two mutations identified. Reliable genetic testing is important for determining breeding practices. To eliminate this mutation from breeding lines and to avoid the potential of producing affected pups, breeding of known carriers to each other is not recommended. Palatogenesis: morphogenetic and molecular mechanisms of secondary palate development. Reproduction and prenatal development. Philadelphia: W. Saunders Company; .Padgett GA. Control of Canine Genetic Diseases. New York: Howell Book House; .Davies M: Excess vitamin A intake during pregnancy as a possible cause of congenital cleft palate in puppies and kittens. Vet Rec Vol 4 pp. Pol J Vet Sci Vol 16 1 pp. Can Vet J Vol 13 10 pp. PLoS Genet. DavidsonA P. Gregory C, Dedrick P: Successful management permitting delayed operative revision of cleft palate in a labrador retriever. In , I had the opportunity to save this puppy. It was not one of my puppies, but I took over on a mission to save him. Tube-feeding every two hours for weeks, around the clock. Saving puppies takes time sometimes, but it is really worth it. Most vets and breeders will tell you to euthanize, and for good reason, as they do not want to see the puppy suffer, and most people do not realize how much time it can take. If someone just tries to save the puppy by putting a little effort into it, instead of a LOT, the puppy will suffer, and slowly die. This is NOT fair. It is encouraging to hear that they can be saved with commitment and time. Many cleft puppies are being saved around the world, and the vets that recommended euthanasia are getting to see how good these puppies can do, and what normal, healthy, active lives they can live. The vets cannot be blamed for recommending euthanasia. That is what they learned in vet school, and it has been the normal recommendation for years and years. The vets also believe clefts have to be repaired ASAP for the puppy to survive. That is not always true. What is Cleft? A cleft palate is an opening in roof of the mouth. Clefts can be very different in size and placement. Pictured to the left is a cleft on a 4-month-old cleft puppy. This pup was bottle-fed for five weeks and tube-fed for six weeks. He now swallows kibble whole and drinks water from a bowl. We watched and waited for a natural close-down, but it didn't happen. Cleft puppies cannot nurse no matter how hard they try, as they cannot get any suction. It would be like you trying to suck on your finger without closing your mouth. The sign of a cleft pup is when the pup tries to nurse, there is no latch-on and it can only mouth the nipple. Some cleft palates are so severe that euthanasia is necessary. Cleft palate on a newborn puppy If you choose not to intervene, please take the pup to the vet and have him humanely put to sleep, as otherwise he will slowly starve to death. A Decision Must be Made The question you need to ask yourself is: Are you willing and able, and do you have the time and desire to devote to the care of your special pup. If your answer is yes, it is recommended you seek info from an experienced vet. Time is VERY important to intervene. We have had the most rewarding experience of saving one of these pups. I work full-time, so with the help of a friend, we did it! Bev from Canada. Timbit was born on July 23rd, with a cleft palate, which was eventually surgically repaired when he was 6 months old. At birth he was turned over to MistyTrails Havanese to ensure he received the best care and was raised and cared for by them and is now a happy, healthy, well trained little guy who fits right in with his home that adopted him after surgery about 9 years ago. Their reputation for being able to save cleft palate dogs has led many to seek out their help. They have since fostered and saved two more Cleft puppies, that are thriving in forever homes. Timbit at 10 years old Courtesy of MistyTrails Havanese.

How often you should feed a German Shepherd puppy depends on their age and their activity level. Many owners also want to know when they can switch to adult food formulas for their German Shepherd puppies. Switch your GSD puppy to adult food when they are around 12 to 18 months old. Puppies can begin adult kibble when they are approximately 80 percent of their adult weight. This usually occurs around 8 to 10 months of age, but you can safely feed puppy food up to 18 months old as long as they are not putting on excess weight too quickly. If you want to know what to feed a German Shepherd puppy, keep reading. Finding the best food to feed your German Shepherd puppy is overwhelming at times. This means choosing what to feed a German Shepherd puppy is even more serious and intimidating! Follow this feeding guide when you need to know what to feed German Shepherd puppies. I understand! The following dog foods are all recommended for large breed puppies and meet and exceed regulated nutritional standards. Feeding a high-quality kibble from a name-brand company that uses feeding trials ensures the best quality and nutrition. Here are some of the best German Shepherd puppy foods that are research-backed. Packed with nutrients to help limit inflammation of the joints and uses fresh ingredients. Easily digestible formula for puppies prone to allergies and sensitive stomachs. Rich aroma with DHA fish oil to entice puppies to finish every last bite while giving shine to their coats. The better the food, the healthier your pup will be inside and out. Cheaper GSD puppy food lacks quality proteins that are essential for your working breed dog. Adding too much weight to your German Shepherd too soon can cause lifelong joint issues that are painful to your pet and expensive on your wallet. Most GSDs are healthy and fit on commercial dog foods that are high quality. These balanced formulas keep their bones and muscles strong throughout their growing periods and can ward off later joint issues, a common breed problem, as they mature. There is a greater demand for quality nutrition during the early growth stage. For these reasons, you must feed high-quality food. Now, consider what to feed a German Shepherd puppy based on their age. These feeding charts and guides will help keep your new companion growing strong and athletic. Tiny portions of canned, wet foods are introduced. Meals per day: 4 or more Puppies should stay with their mom for to keep them healthy. Nutrition Warning! At 8-weeks-old a GSD pup is eating more solid foods and develops a better appetite for kibble and other foods. Add in only a couple of small spoonfuls of canned plain pumpkin, unsweetened Greek yogurt, or cooked oatmeal to entice your pup to eat. Meals per day: 4 Week-Old Puppy Continue feeding the same as the 8-week-old diet. Treats are not only enjoyable for your German Shepherd, but help you to eneterain and build a positive relationship with him. Be sure to keep their zoomies under control by playing plenty of fun German Shepherd games for puppies. Meals per day: 4 Week-Old Puppy Continue to feed the kibble. Watch for excessive weight gain during this growth time as their bones cannot take extra weight! Too much weight gain too quickly can cause joint issues as an adult and prevent healthy development. Use their mental energy to help keep them more relaxed throughout the day by playing brain-boosting mind games for German Shepherd puppies. Meals per day: 3 to 4 Week-Old Puppy Keep your puppy trim and athletic by monitoring how much you feed your puppy and their body condition. You can write how much they eat and track this over time, and adjust how much your feed your German Shepherd puppy to keep them at a healthy weight. Try using fresh, raw, cut-up pieces of carrots as healthy treats or small, deseeded cubes of fresh apple as part of their training treats. Keep your eyes open for a growth spurt about to begin! Meals per day: 3 Week-Old Puppy Around 4 months old, you might notice your puppy finish their meal quickly and look for more food. Be sure to watch how many treats you give them throughout the day. You can do this by holding them safely in your arms and weighing them with you on the scale. Then, place them on the floor and step onto the scale without them to weigh yourself. Remember, around 16 to weeks old your German Shepherd puppy begins to rapidly grow. Instead, when looking overhead at your puppy their waist should look trim and not rounded outwards. German Shepherd puppies should appear sleek in their waistline. Meals per day: 3 Week And Older Puppy Continue to feed your German Shepherd puppy dry kibble with a small amount of healthy foods mixed in. You can lessen the healthy food you mix in gradually if you prefer. But, even as adults, German Shepherds love a bit of tasty toppers on their kibble. Around a year old, begin feeding your German Shepherd puppy 2 meals a day. Two meals, one in the morning and evening, are not only safer but also provide your German Shepherd with sustained energy to fuel their high-energy lifestyle. You can create a positive meal time by using the following tips: Always offer fresh water during their meal times. Keep the area where they eat their food in calm and out of the way of the family hustle and bustle. I found sitting with a book reading, just keeping my GSD puppy company, encouraged my dog to eat their meals while giving us time to quietly bond. Feed your German Shepherd at the same time everyday. The best time to feed a German Shepherd puppy is in the morning, before you leave for the day, and in the evening, about 2 hours before you put your dog to bed. Allow them to potty after eating to ensure their comfort. Your dog also needs to eat at other times of the day for their health and growth. How much you should feed a German Shepherd puppy really depends on a number of factors. Your GSD pup should eat enough to maintain their growth and energy, while not carrying any extra fat. Every dog is different. Keep in mind the number of calories in the kibble, which varies from manufacturer to manufacturer. Each puppy food company has a different amount of calories and size of the kibble. Here are a few things that might affect how much your German Shepherd puppy should eat. The more active a German Shepherd puppy is, the more calories he needs to eat to replace lost energy. For example, puppies need nearly twice the amount of calories as compared to adults. And older or senior German Shepherds who are less active need less food. Health Maintaining a healthy weight is essential to feeding your German Shepherd. Simply put, you can prevent some medical conditions and health problems by monitoring their waistlines. Instead follow the healthy way to bulk up a German Shepherd. To see if your German Shepherd is at the right weight you can find the average weight depending on their age. Blankets, pillows, and towels. The mother GSD and her litter need a quiet place to stay. It should be spacious, clean, and comfortable. If money is not an issue, you may purchase a commercial whelping box and a washable vet bed. But if you want to be thrifty, you can just make use of a clean cardboard box. Just make sure that the box is big enough for your GSD to stretch out comfortably. You may also buy a heat pad. It will provide warmth to the litter. Instead, put the heat pad under the whelping box, with one end on top of the box. Cover it with a towel to avoid overheating. The whelping box should be close enough to an electrical outlet so you can easily plug in the heat pad once you need more warmth for your Litter. Make sure they stay warm by providing a heating pad and lamp. You may add blankets, pillows, towels, or even old newspapers and a warm water bottle wrapped in a towel. Be careful though because puppies might get entangled and suffocate if the blanket, pillows, and towels are not taut. Puppy milk replacer, baby bottle, or feeding syringe If the litter is abandoned or orphaned, ask your vet to prescribe milk formulated for German shepherd puppies. Purchase a baby bottle or syringe for feeding. If you leave newborn German shepherd puppies with their mother, give her the first two days to bond with her litter and feed them. Once you see that your GSD has accepted her litter and is feeding them, you can put the puppies in a box beside their mother. She will take care of cleaning and nurturing her pups while continuing to feed them with her milk. But if she still refuses to take care of her pups, you must take matters into your own hands. To do this, place a clean towel or a washable vet bed inside a cardboard box. Keep the box beside your GSD but make sure that she cannot get in touch with her pups. Plug the pad into an electrical outlet and adjust the heat to maintain its temperature at 95 degrees Fahrenheit. The pups can get hypothermia if their body heat drops below 94 degrees Fahrenheit. See also How long should a puppy chew on a bully stick and when to take the bully stick away? Now, put your German shepherd puppies under the warmth of the heating pad at 95 degrees F and wait for them to feed. Only put three puppies per towel or one puppy per section of the vet bed for ease in feeding and monitoring. A mother GSD can produce about 4 to 5 cc of milk every hour. This means that she will need someone to feed her pups every 2 or 3 hours. To correctly use the eyedropper, put your puppy on its stomach and tickle its throat to induce swallowing. Repeat this process until you see that the pup has emptied the eyedropper. Pups will probably fall asleep after feeding. To avoid suffocation, place rolled-up newspapers in their box the pups can use them as pillows when they sleep. These are only temporary until the mother GSD starts to take care of them by licking them clean and keeping them warm with her presence. Weighing scale To make sure if the German shepherd puppies are gaining enough weight, monitor their weight by using a weighing scale at least 4 times a week. If the puppies are not gaining enough weight, they may not be getting enough milk or nourishment so consult your vet right away. Use a wet cotton ball or washcloth to massage or rub gently the anal region. A mother GSD can give birth to 4 to 9 puppies in one litter, 6 as the average. Newborn German Shepherd Puppies Newborns especially 1 to 3-day old German shepherd puppies are vulnerable so before you do anything, consult with your vet especially if you are inexperienced. Right after your GSD gives birth, check the 1-day old German shepherd puppies if they are breathing. If you notice a puppy having breathing difficulties, use a suction bulb syringe to suck out the blockage and clear its airways. Most of the time, they just sleep or eat. They usually eat every two hours during their first week of life. If the puppies are orphaned, you may wash them gently using a warm and moist cloth. Avoid over-bathing the pups because it can cause dehydration. You will notice some of them wagging their tails as well which is adorable to look at. The puppies will gradually open their eyes for the first time in 2 weeks. They will be curious so expect them to move around to inspect their surroundings. Instead of crawling, they attempt to use their legs even though their legs may shake. Check their weight to see if they are gaining well and continue keeping them warm and clean. Their ears will open so they can hear the sounds around them. Though their legs still shake when they attempt to walk, they can finally stand on their own. They will begin to socialize and explore their surroundings more so you should not separate the puppies from each other. They will start teething so they tend to bite everything. They will also be interested in eating solid food. The puppies can walk well at 4 weeks so they will continue socializing with their siblings, their mother, and their handler through playing. They can begin eating solid foods for the first time now that their teeth are fully developed. The puppies can be fully weaned when they reach 6 weeks because they become independent of their mother. They also improve their social skills by playing not only with each other but also with people. Not to worry because this is just a normal phase. This is a good time to expose the puppies to various sounds, places, and people. Teach them basic commands but focus on socialization and bite inhibition. If the puppies are not fully potty trained , train them now. At 9 weeks, the weight of male German shepherd puppies normally ranges from 9 to 10 kg while the females would be from 7 to 9 kg. Their height ranges from 12 to 15 inches. See also How to Crate Train a German Shepherd Puppy When the German shepherd puppies reach 10 weeks, their ears will become pointy but sometimes the ears are floppy. Their height and weight will continue to grow as long as they are adequately fed. By this time, your puppies should already know how to gently use their mouth in dealing with humans so you can enhance their training by teaching other basic commands. When they are done, let them play so that they learn how to do this on their own. Be patient because it takes time before they get the hang of it. If after 24 hours it still refuses to eat, use a baby bottle or feeding syringe to feed the puppy. Prepare a milk replacement formula using evaporated milk mixed with egg yolk, using two egg yolks for every half cup of milk. To avoid bacteria growth, boil the water first before mixing everything and store any leftover formula in the fridge. Gradually increase the proportion of milk replacement formula and decrease the proportion of puppy chow until you wean them off milk replacement completely. Your GSD puppy may have parasites because stools may look like pebbles or tan-colored, small balls which can be a sign that they have swallowed something in their litter box. This is particularly common when they are still with their mother because they tend to eat the feces of the other pups. Diarrhea can also be caused by stress, which is common for a newborn GSD puppy that has been removed from its mom. If this happens, make sure you give them enough attention and place your hand gently on their body to calm them down. Conclusion German shepherd puppies are truly a sight to behold from birth to adulthood. Peter My name is Peter and I am a dog lover. I have two German Shepherd dogs, one of which is called Biscuit because his coat is very light with brown patches. My wife and I moved from the UK to Ohio where we now live with our two daughters. We love squash on weekends and following the English Premier League closely! Previous Article. German Shepherd puppy development stages and ages — week by week guide Welcome to our German Shepherd puppy development stages and ages — week by week guide Different breeds like all different babies develop at different rates. There are going to be many exciting events for you to look forward to. Whether you are bringing your 8 week German Shepherd puppy home or about to be blessed with a litter of puppies. This is going to be an exciting, demanding but hugely rewarding journey. Newborn puppies are born at around days after fertilization. Newborn puppies are born with their ears and eyes tightly sealed. The reason eyelids are sealed shut is to form a protective barrier for the fragile developing eye. This helps to protect them from any foreign object, bright lights, bacteria or any other microorganism that can cause disease or damage. In the same way puppies ear canals are closed at birth to make them effectively deaf. This is a protective barrier to protect the fragile underdeveloped machinery needed to hear. In a mature ear the pressure caused by sound will mechanically move structures in the ear. German Shepherd puppies are highly dependent upon their noses. Puppies navigate by smell from the moment they are born. This helps them to identify their mom, the very important milk supply, siblings and surroundings. Newborn puppies are born with a fur coat however they cannot control their own body temperature yet. To keep them warm they are dependant on their mothers or another heat source. If you live in a cooler climate installing a heat lamp would be ideal to help keep the puppies nice and warm. Germans Shepherds make amazing mothers and will be relied on a lot at this stage. Mother dogs will only leave their newborn puppies to go to the toilet, eat and drink. However, when mom has gone the newborn puppies are not completely useless. They are able to use their front paws to drag themselves towards a heat source. When mom is away the puppies will crawl together to preserve their body heat. Along with being able to drag themselves to a heat source newborn puppies are also able to drag themselves to their mothers to locate the milk supply. They will move their heads around to search for a nipple, latch on and suck strongly. Newborn puppies are not born with teeth these will also develop in the next several weeks. Other than the above puppies are completely dependent upon the care of their dedicated mom. Newborn puppies have little control over the rear end of their bodies. To encourage their pups to pass urine and bowel movements the mom will lick their bottoms. Anything produced mom will then lick up and swallow to keep her puppies and nest clean. Some pups will even double their birth weight! Your German Shepherd puppy will still be highly dependent upon their mom at this stage. Beneath all their fur the vital organs will be working hard to mature. This includes the eyes. Your puppy will not be ready to open their eyes yet but lots of changes are taking place to prepare them for grand opening. The ear canals will begin to open around the same time as the eyes. When the ear canals do open, the ears are much more formed than the eyes are at this point in time. Their eyesight usually takes around 8 weeks to reach its full potential. When their eyes become wider, they will reveal blueish-gray eyes which are hazy in appearance. Their eyesight will continue to develop until around 8 weeks old. The ear canals will also open around 2 weeks. The puppies hearing has been developing much quicker than their eyesight and they will be able to hear most things by the time their ear canals fully open. However, their amazing hearing ability will continue to enhance over the next several weeks. At the moment your German Shepherd puppy will have cute floppy ears. Their adorable tall ears can come up anywhere between 8 weeks and 6 months of age. Floppy ears are common until your German Shepherd finishes teething. By then the ear cartilage will become strong and hard enough for the ears to stand up permanently. Now is a good time to start handling the puppies and get them used to your voice. Most puppies are wormed for the first time when they are 2 weeks old. All this development has happened so quickly, but things are about to get even more exciting. Between 2 and 4 weeks your German Shepherd puppy will begin to stand up this is when the real fun begins. Puppies milky teeth will also start to develop between 2 to 4 weeks. These sharp little teeth will remain until about weeks of age. These little daggers play an important role during the weaning process. Even the most patient moms will struggle to nurse with these sharp painful teeth. This reluctance to nurse will prompt the German Shepherds to seek alternative food sources. These sharp teeth will then help to make up for the lack of jaw strength when eating solid foods. Finally, these sharp puppy teeth play an important role in teaching the pups to gauge their bite pressure when playing with their mom and siblings. This is an essential life lesson that enables our powerful German Shepherds to become safer companions as they mature into strong adult dogs. During the last few weeks mom has done an amazing job of getting her babies strong and their mobility will have come on leaps and bounds well not quite yet but by 3 weeks of age your German Shepherd puppy will begin to trotter around. Most 3 week old German Shepherd puppies can stand and sit. With their baby teeth starting to cut through a lot of breeders. Especially those with large litters will start introducing some solid foods. This helps relieve some of the pressure for the devoted German Shepherd mom. When weaning puppies, you need to start off by soaking their food in either water or puppy milk replacement formula to make it mushy and more comfortable for them to eat. As they start to interact and play with their siblings their personalities will really start to show. You may also notice them starting to playfully growl at each other. At 3 weeks old it will become easier to start identifying different members of the pack. Breeders and moms will be kept on their toes and paws over the next few weeks. As the pups start getting more confident on their feet they will be running around and playing enthusiastically. At 4 weeks old they will begin to wag their adorable little tails. With solid food becoming a major part of their diet the pups will be passing bigger bowel movements. They will be able to show more control of their bowel movements as they take themselves away from their brothers and sisters to perform their business. At this stage mom will be taking a much more relaxed approach to parenting and there will be a lot more for the breeder to clear up. By this point mealtimes are a messy process. If it is warm and safe enough to do so we would recommend taking the pups out in the yard for feeding. German Shepherd puppies are becoming a lot stronger at vocalisations by 4 weeks old. When mom returns to her babies the litter will noisily greet her. Around 4 weeks of age your puppies will need to be wormed again. From this week onwards human interaction is very important in order to form relationships with people. Including different noises and smells. This exposure will ensure your German Shepherd puppy turns into a confident, friendly individual. Mom will also be doing an important job of teaching her puppies to not bite too hard. Even an 8 week old German Shepherd puppy would have the power in their jaws to break the smaller bones in humans fingers. This is why mom teaching her puppies bite inhibition is so important. For more information on bite inhibition please see our guide on German Shepherd bite inhibition. By 5 weeks old German Shepherd puppies will be eating a lot of solid foods, several times throughout the day. Those sharp little teeth would have done their job and mom will be gradually weaning her pups of the dependency on her milk. When mom does feed her puppies, she will only do so for a short period whilst standing up. They will be eating between five and six small meals a day. Although the pups no longer rely on mom for milk, they still need her help and guidance for the next few weeks. Mom will be teaching her babies important life skills to live alongside humans. In some countries 6 week old puppies are taken away from their mothers and moved into their new home. We would not recommend this as the puppies will miss out on continued bite inhibition training from their siblings and mother. This can result in a puppy who bites too hard which can be challenging to manage as they get older. In the USA your puppy will be due their first combined 5-in-1 vaccine at 6 weeks old. This vaccine helps to immunizes your puppy against hepatitis, parvo, distemper, parainfluenza and coronavirus. Most puppies will also need to be wormed again at 6 weeks old. Their last week together will consist of plenty of socialization and playing. Most breeders will arrange a 7 week health check up with the vet to make sure your bundle of fluff is fit and healthy to go to their new home. In the UK some breeders will arrange for the pups first 8 week vaccination to take place during this check. Although some vets advise against it. By the end of this week German Shepherd puppies are ready to leave their mothers and move into their new homes for good. The week you get to take your new puppy home. This will be a very exciting time, but you may also be feeling a bit nervous. There will be some challenged along the way for new puppy owners and your puppy will take some time to adjust to life without its mother and siblings. In the UK the first combined vaccination will help to immunizes your puppy against distemper, parvovirus, leptospirosis and hepatitis. The first puppy injection in the UK typically will happen between 8 and 10 weeks. Some breeders would have trained the puppies to poop and pee on newspapers or puppy pads. From the moment you get them home it is important to show your German Shepherd puppy where to pee and poop. Puppies naturally like to pee where they have done so before so to avoid building history of peeing in your home is best if you can to avoid it. The more you can avoid accidents from happening as much as possible from the start the faster the puppy training process should be. All puppies are different, and some will get this quicker than others. The main thing to remember is not to discipline your puppy for accidents. The most successful way to potty train is to reward success and ignore accidents. Just clean them up quickly and thoroughly. Your puppy will love nothing more than being praised. For more information please see our guide on How to potty train your German Shepherd puppy. Already your German Shepherd puppy will feel like part of the family. German Shepherds puppies are always adorable but at 9 weeks they are at the age where they are still puppy-like but very clumsy,curious and keen to play with her new family, which is very cute. Your German Shepherds unique personality will make you feel very proud. At 9 weeks your cheeky German Shepherd pup will be feeling more confident, with this the need to explore everything and anything may end up getting them into trouble. Your puppy will develop new sleeping patterns and feeding routines which you will need to adapt to. Most puppies will sleep between eighteen and twenty hours a day at 9 weeks old. During the day when you are with your puppy generally you will not need to shut them away in a crate to nap. German Shepherd puppies are often more than happy to sleep whilst family life goes on around them. However, there will be times when sleeping in a crate is better and safer for your puppy. You must not leave a 9 week old puppy to sleep outside the crate if you are not home to watch them if they wake. Puppies are into everything and many innocent items found in the house could be a potential hazard to your inquisitive pup. For more information please see our guide on how to puppy proof your home. Even if your puppy can barely keep their eyes open other pups and children will still want to play and your German Shepherd puppy may find it hard to refuse. After a hard day of play the peace and quiet of a crate will enable your pup to have a well-deserved nap. If your German Shepherd puppy does need to go to the toilet in the night make sure you keep it short and to a minimum. Establishing a daily routine is the best way to get your German Shepherd puppy to sleep through the night. Part of this schedule will involve mealtimes. Your 9 week old puppy will need four meals a day. Split these up throughout the day and try to stick to similar times. This is to stop encouraging your puppy to wake up earlier and earlier because they associate waking with food. You should always reward your puppy either vocally, with a favourite toy or treats for good behaviour and ignore bad behaviour. Puppies and dogs want to be praised so they respond very well to positive encouragement. Punishing puppies and dogs may have a short term positive effect on their behaviour but long term you could be setting them up to fail. It is very important to socialise and expose your puppy to other humans, dogs and different scenarios whilst they are young. This maybe hard before your puppy has had all its vaccines however getting many different people to come and visit you at your home will enable them to get used to visitors. Before their full vaccinations you can also, you can take you German Shepherd puppy out and about with you to expose them to the outside world as long as you can carry them. If you live in the USA, your puppy will be due their second combined 5-in-1 vaccine at 9 weeks old. In the USA a minimum of three sets of the combined vaccine are required for your puppy. Although you cannot put your puppy down outside until after their final vaccination. Puppies 10 week injection In the UK is a booster vaccination to help immunizes your puppy against distemper, parvovirus, leptospirosis and hepatitis. Check with your vet what date after their jabs your German Shepherd puppy will be able to go down outside. Your puppy will then need a booster between 6 and 12 months old. If you live in the USA at 12 weeks old your German Shepherd puppy will be due their booster for the combined 5in1 vaccine against hepatitis, distemper, parainfluenza, parvo and coronavirus and a vaccine against rabies and leptospirosis. If you live in a high risk area, they may also need to be given the vaccination to help immunize them against Lyme. If applicable at 16 weeks your German Shepherd puppy may need to have a fourth combined 5in1 vaccine. A minimum of three combined injections are required in the USA. Check with your vet what date they will be able to be out down outside. By 10 weeks old your German Shepherd puppy will be able to control their bladder a lot more. Potentially up to several hours. This is great time for you to introduce them to the big wide world and develop their social skills which you have already been building the foundations. When taking your German Shepherd puppy out try to introduce them to as many other friendly dogs, humans and noises you can. This will help your German Shepherd puppy to grown into a confident well-rounded dog. At 3 months old your German Shepherd will go down from four daily meals to three. These three portions will be larger than what they are used to which may cause stomach upset. If your German Shepherd puppy does get an upset stomach, try going back to four smaller meals for a couple of days and they try the three larger portions again. This can be a challenging time as your adorable German Shepherd puppy turns into a furry crocodile. Luckily the teething stage is only a phase as with human babies and short lived. In most cases your puppy biting should stop around when they are around 7 months old and have their adult teeth. You maybe noticing your German Shepherds gorgeous ears fluctuating between floppy and pointy. By the time your puppy has finished teething their ears should tick up all the way. This usually happens around months. As they grow their cartilage becomes stronger. Some puppies need another month or so to help them cope without going out for frequent toilet breaks. Even when your German Shepherd puppy is toilet trained occasional accidents are normal. German Shepherds do have large ears but they tend to grow into them as they get older. German Shepherd puppies will begin to grow their new adult coat between 4 and 6 months old. To make way for their adult coat all the puppy hair has to go. For several weeks you will notice an increase in shedding. This is a completely normal part of growing up for your German Shepherd. Being a double coat breed German Shepherds dogs have a topcoat and an undercoat. Twice a year your pup will shed their undercoat. Usually in spring and again in fall. They also shed in general days a year so be prepared for a lot of fur! They will very much look like a smaller version of their adult selves. Although your German Shepherd may look older on the inside, they are still very much a puppy. If you are looking to get your puppy neutered or spayed the recommended age is 6 to 9 months. However, it is common for some female puppies to get spayed at 4 months old. Summary: Your German Shepherd is bound to give you so much joy and happiness throughout its life. There will be challenges along the way but remember this is completely normal. German Shepherds are such an amazing breed and you will have a loyal friend for life. Related Posts. They cannot see or hear yet, or regulate their body temperature, and they require a lot of tender care from their mom. The new mom is usually very excited and concerned about each newborn, and sometimes overly enthusiastic about chewing off the umbilical cord, which may later result in an umbilical hernia that will take a little longer to close, but is no danger to the puppy. We record the ribbon color and weight of each puppy so that, when we weigh the pups throughout the next days and weeks, we can make sure that each one is gaining weight. Normal weight for a newborn German Shepherd puppy ranges from g to g 0. We take great care to ensure that our newborn German Shepherd puppies have the best chance for a healthy start. A German Shepherd female can be in active labor for 6 to 18 hours, sometimes even longer if she takes a break while having a large litter, and we of course do not leave her side during this time. I stay up making sure that the whelping box which is always in my office or bedroom is clean and dry after each puppy is born, and that the temperature stays constant 86 - 88 F in the room. We keep the temperature at this level for about 2 weeks, gradually reducing it down to normal F by the end of the third week. Someone is always present with the puppies during the first 5 days. I handle the puppies several times a day, as well as weigh them every other day during this period, to make sure that everyone looks and acts healthy, nurses well, and is gaining weight. I usually buy a dozen fluffy cotton towels, and use two at a time as bedding for the whelping box. I change these towels twice daily at this stage to make sure the puppies are always clean and dry. Starting from day 3, and until day 16, I follow The "Super Dog" Program for our puppies - an early neurological stimulation program described by Dr. Carmen Battaglia. It has numerous benefits later in life for puppies. Often, puppies that were born the smallest overtake the bigger ones. Even at this tender age strong individual differences can be noted among German Shepherd puppies. Also, there is difference in their color and markings, and long-hair German Shepherd puppies can often be identified at this age. The new mom is very attached to her puppies at this age and is very reluctant to leave them even for the shortest time. She spends a lot of time sleeping with the puppies nursing peacefully, and is also very happy to be busy cleaning each puppy several times a day and flipping them around gently with her nose. At about 2 weeks of age German Shepherd puppies actually start looking more like puppies, and not just fat black sausages with feet attached. We use undiluted evaporated goats milk from a can, warmed up to be pleasant to the touch. Most puppies readily accept the bottle, and we consider this to be very important bonding and social time as well. Three weeks of age is my favorite age of all. The puppies now can be recognized as German Shepherd puppies. They are alert, playful, and there is a lot of wrestling, tail-wagging, and even barking going on as they explore their surroundings and interact with each other and their mom, all of which is extremely cute. I will often just sit in the whelping box with them, letting them play with my clothes, climb up on my lap, and generally just enjoying their carefree company. We also provide them with various toys starting at this age, and make sure that they listen to loud music, banging on the door, vacuum cleaner, etc. They weigh around 1. At first, they may not have a lot of success with it, as some of them try to suckle on the meat, but in a few days they master this new type of eating very well. We also continue giving them goats milk, but in a shallow saucer pan now, and with some rice baby cereal added, so that they can practice lapping. At this age, the mom is no longer so keen on constantly staying with her puppies, and only visits them to feed them and for a clean up. We continue changing the bedding twice a day now, knowing very well that in about a week it will become times a day, as the mom will not be able to keep up with her cleaning duties any more. We wash soiled towels with a little bit of bleach and a little bit of perfume-free detergent. Four weeks of age is even more fun as the puppies keep developing, but the amount of cleaning starts to increase in geometrical progression, and it becomes a full time job to keep the puppies well fed and clean. The mom is only visiting now and then at this point, and enjoys spending her time in the office, so that she can hear and see the puppies, but not necessarily be with them. With mom visiting for a few brief feedings each day, we feed them three times a day with the following diet: 1. Cottage cheese 2 tbsp per puppy , mixed with plain yogurt 1 tsp per puppy , evaporated goats milk, rice baby cereal 1 tsp. Raw tripe, or beef liver cooked with all kinds of vegetables At about 5 weeks of age the duty of keeping the whelping box clean becomes nightmarish, and this is a good time to introduce German Shepherd puppies to the outdoors. This is a room that is a part of the house, but has free access to the outside world. This room is equipped with a wooden resting platform so that puppies do not lay on concrete, with a heating lamp above it, and the floor is completely covered with a layer of pine woodchips. The outside area is about 6 x 6 ft and the floor is made of paving stones. There is another wooden laying platform here. This is a very important period when we introduce our German Shepherd puppies to more noises, show them the way in and out of the house, introduce them to the other dogs, play tug-of-war, etc. Also, we introduce raw frozen sardines and "The Honest Kitchen" products to their diet, and will occasionally feed kibble, soaked well in warm water and mixed with green tripe from a can At 3, 5, and 7 weeks of age our German Shepherd puppies get dewormed with a high quality wormer, to be certain that they are free of intestinal parasites. At about 6 weeks of age the puppies get their first combination 5-way vaccine including Parvo and Distemper , and at 7 weeks of age we start welcoming visitors who are interested to come and look at the puppies. Often during weekends we have several groups of visitors of all ages coming to interact with the puppies, which is such a great socialization opportunity for them. Copyright .All rights reserved. Baby German Shepherds growing up! German Shepherd Dogs are one of the most popular dog breeds out there at the moment, with many devoted fans. They can be large and imposing as adults. But, like every breed, they have a cute puppy phase that many fall in love with. However, since most puppies are bought at weeks old, most of us miss out on this magical period of their lives. So what happens during those first important weeks? A typical German Shepherd litter consists of around puppies. The mean average, according to a study performed in , is 6. When they are first born, they will still have an umbilical cord attached and may be covered in amniotic fluid. Their mother should chew off the umbilical cord and spend the first few hours cleaning their pups. Then mom will focus on keeping her newborn pups warm while allowing them to nurse. At this stage, German Shepherd puppies will just sleep and avoid expending energy. They will frequently nurse from their mother. Newborn German Shepherds When baby German Shepherd puppies are first born, they are completely dependent on their mother. Their ears and eyes will be closed and they will be unable to regulate their own body temperature efficiently. A coat should be present, and the color will depend on the genes they have inherited from their parents. Black with tan markings is the most common for this breed. Additionally, they will be relatively immobile. They will be unable to properly support their own weight. Therefore, they will commonly crawl on their stomach to move about. They will also be unable to urinate or defecate on their own. Stimulation from their mother will be required to help them go to the toilet. One Week Old Baby German Shepherd In the first week, the puppies should bulk up significantly and double their birth weight. However, there will not be much change in their behavior. They will still primarily be focused on nursing and sleeping. To help themselves stay warm, the puppies will normally cuddle close to each other, except for when they are in a hot environment. At this stage, they will still be blind and deaf. While they are still unable to see very well, this is a big step. Eyes should open for the first time at around days of age. They will appear blue in color, but this will change into brown as they develop. They may become a little more inquisitive about their surroundings with their new-found eyesight, and may begin to crawl around a little more. We can expect to see them make some big steps at this stage. Firstly, at around days old, their ears should begin to open for the first time. They should now be able to both see and hear, though not too clearly. Their senses will continue to develop over the coming weeks. They will begin to be able to stand and support their own weight. Walking may still be tough, though! They will likely be pretty wobbly. You can also expect to see their baby teeth come in at around this time. While they still get the majority of their nutrition from their mother, they will begin to show interest in solid food. They will begin to become more independent at this age, being able to urinate and defecate on their own. Beginning Of Socialization With their sight and hearing, they are likely to show a little bit of adventure and courage for the first time, exploring their surroundings as much as their unsteady gait will allow them. This milestone also marks the beginning of the socialization period, a critical phase of their development. Things learned now can shape their personality and behavior for the rest of their lives. They may engage the other puppies in clumsy play and show body language such as tail wagging for the first time. They will form relationships with their den mates, their mother, and humans. This stage is critical in getting the puppies used to humans. This can be achieved by gently exposing the puppies to human presence and contact so that they can see that they are no threat. While their brains are still very much in development, they are still able to learn some simple concepts at this stage. Crate and potty training can begin at this age. They should now be able to walk pretty well. This mobility will allow them to further play with their family and be even more curious about their surroundings. On top of this, their baby teeth should now be fully formed and the weaning process should be fully underway. They should be offered soft but solid food. They may begin to show signs of more complex social behaviors towards their other den mates, and they should learn important skills like bite inhibition. The socialization process should continue, with the puppies gently being exposed to new people, sights, and sounds. The German Shepherd babies will also be further weaned off the mother at this time, slowly moving onto a fully solid diet. Six Week Old Baby German Shepherd At this age, you will begin to see the puppies become even more independent of their mother. Six week old puppies are gaining social skills rapidly, and love to play with people and each other. Seven Week Old Baby German Shepherd When we move into the seventh week of their life, a new significant phase of development starts to begin: the fear period. While this sounds disconcerting, it merely means that this is the time that many puppies begin to show fear towards new things, rather than curiosity. Things that the puppy may find scary or uncertain during this time can make for big changes in their personality throughout life. For example, if a puppy has a bad experience with a human at this stage, it may lead them to becoming fearful and distrustful towards people for the rest of their life. This is why gently exposing the puppies to humans and common sights and sounds beforehand is important. By preemptively socializing the puppies with humans, we can help this period run smoother. The puppies will have reached weights of around pounds and should be around inches tall. Their ears will lie flat but should begin to become erect and upright over the coming weeks. They will be fully independent of their mother at this age. They should be completely weaned, with some basic training and socialization. From here, new owners are expected to continue to train and socialize them, as they are still within a critical period of development. New owners will also need to continue to ensure the German Shepherd puppy is fed a good, nutritionally balanced diet. For more information, you can check out our full puppy development guide here. And make sure you also take a look at this guide to bathing a puppy!

Disclosure: This post contains affiliate links, and I will be compensated if you make a purchase after clicking on my links. You need the best exercise for German Shepherd puppies to keep them healthy, fit, and, more importantly… Out of mischief! Quite the opposite is true for your fast-growing breed! German Shepherd puppies should stick to only five minutes of continuous, on-leash leisurely walking at a time, based on their age in months. So, an 8-week-old puppy can walk for 10 minutes at a time on a leash, while a 6-month-old can walk on a leash for 30 minutes at a time. However, your puppy can enjoy low-impact, gentle exercises for longer periods of time. You can play games that work on sustained growth multiple times per day safely. Instead, exercise on soft surfaces, for example: Grass Sand Dirt paths or trails Stretching of soft ligaments at too early an age, strains on young, growing joints, and carrying too much weight on their overall framework can and will harm your young puppy. This leads to problems in adulthood, which you could avoid! Remember to watch for: Panting heavily with rapid breath Lagging on their walks for longer than usual Stopping on walks and standing Lying down on their belly or side If your dog is hyperactive and displays excessive chewing and destructive behavior, they may need engaging brain stimulation to help them use their brains to engage in their environments constructively. Ideally, you also need to teach them basic commands and house manners. Start now with basic obedience training to avoid later behavioral issues. Eventually, your active, adult GSD will need at least 2 walks of 45 minutes each source. Other great ways to exercise your German Shepherd puppy include working on their balance, enjoying mental stimulation, and playing gently with toys they love. Until your vet clears your dog as having their bones fully fused this is around 12 to 18 months of age , activity should be cautious and slow-paced. Up to twelve months of age, natural free running is the best way to exercise German Shepherds. With free running, your dog is off-leash and can stop or slow as they wish. Limit and monitor on-leash walks and activity while your German Shepherd is growing. When walking on a leash, allow them to Walk at their own pace Stop and start as they please Sniff around leisurely to explore the grass, flowers, and trees Lay down, roll around, and dig in approved digging places Use a no-pull harness with a design that allows for natural shoulder movement to avoid unnatural gait development. Try this padded no-pull harness on your German Shepherd to avoid any neck injuries to her while she is young. This design also limits pulling and helps teach nice leash walking manners. The handle on the back of the no-pull harness makes it easy to grab your pup to stop them from running into a hazard or just to catch them! Read more helpful information on the benefits and disadvantages of using a harness or a collar to help you choose the right equipment for walking your new puppy. There are plenty of other ideas to try with your new baby German Shepherd. Even better? You can find so many ways to learn what your new German Shepherd puppy likes to play with for their fun and games! Keep reading for a German Shepherd puppy exercise chart and specific, step-by-step fun games to keep your new pup happy and healthy. Exercising puppies heavily too early in life may lead to joint damage. This is especially likely in large breeds with rapidly growing and heavily loaded joints, such as your GSD. High-Impact Activity to Avoid Jumping, especially from couches, furniture, or cars Twisting such as chasing a toy that wildly moves in many directions Exercising over hard or uneven ground especially sidewalks and asphalt Keep exercise short and frequent, as this is more beneficial than long, infrequent periods of activity. Post header Skip post header How much exercise does a German Shepherd need? Making sure your German Shepherd gets plenty of exercise and mental stimulation is really important for keeping them healthy and happy. Regular exercise can not only keep them in good shape, but it can also help improve their behaviour and well-being. How much exercise does a German Shepherd need? German Shepherds are highly active dogs , originally bred for working and guarding flocks of sheep, and more recently used by military and police forces. All this means that German Shepherds are among the most high-energy dogs out there. Of course, their exercise needs can vary based on a number of factors including age, fitness level, general health, food intake and more. That said, most German Shepherds usually need at least 90 minutes of exercise daily. This can be spread across the day and include all sorts of high-energy activities, like walking, running and playing. To get an exercise goal tailored to your dog, simply download the free PitPat app and enter their details. How much exercise does a German Shepherd puppy need? This is especially true for this breed since they are prone to conditions like hip dysplasia. As a rule of thumb, puppies will need five minutes of formal exercise such as walkies for every month of their age. These walks should be opportunities to explore their environment, work on training and good behaviour outdoors, and socialise with other people and dogs in a controlled manner. How much exercise does a senior German Shepherd need? You can also set your own goals manually in case they have higher or lower exercise needs. What types of exercise are best for German Shepherds? German Shepherds excel at all sorts of exercise and canine sports thanks to their working background. In addition to their daily walks, you could try:. Conclusion: German Shepherds history and running distances: German Shepherds today come from a long successful line of herding dogs, dating back to the late 19th century. This means they have had many generations to improve their tolerance to long hours of running around herding farm animals. Particularly those that are descendants of a working line. For more information on different breed lines please see our article on German Shepherd breed types compared. An average a healthy German Shepherd is capable of running between 5 to 30 miles per hour; however, there are several factors which affect this big variance in speed including: Training: The level of training your German Shepherd has had can make a big impact on their speed. Like us dogs need to work on building up stamina and their muscles to help them become faster. Although dogs are naturally faster runners than humans over a short distance when it comes to long distances most human beings have more stamina so are able to keep going for longer distance without a break. Our lack of thick fur and ability to cool ourselves down easily via the sweat glands all over our bodies plays a massive role in this ability. German Shepherds have an upper paw on most dogs because of their herding history, in order for your German Shepherd to keep up with you for longer runs you will need to help them by building their strength and increasing their stamina. Later on, in this article we will go into detail on ways to help train your German Shepherd to run faster for longer distances. If you have a puppy or an older German Shepherd, they will not have the ability to run for a long distance. On the other hand, a well-trained and mature German Shepherd will be capable of running at fast speed over a long distance. Diet: The type of foods your German Shepherd is feds can play a significant role on their ability to run fast for longer periods of time. Unlike humans who rely on glycogen which is found in carbohydrates for energy our canine companions rely on fats. How much extra fat your German Shepherd will require will depend upon what kind of runs you want to take them on. The best fats for German Shepherds include extra virgin olive oil, cheese, whole eggs , fatty fish, chia seeds, coconut and coconut oil. When training your German Shepherd to be a runner you will also need to increase their protein intake slightly to help build and repair their muscles. For more information on how much protein a German Shepherd require please see this article. The best protein sources for German Shepherds include: beef, lamb, veal, chicken, turkey, duck, fish not shell fish , lentils, plain chickpeas, natural cooked beans, eggs, cheese for more information on best cheese types to feed your German Shepherd please see this article here At what age should you take a German Shepherd out running? The best time to start taking your German Shepherd out for a fast pace run is around 12 months of age. By 12 months your German Shepherds growth rate starts to slow down, although they will continue to grow until they are between 2 and 3 years of age. German Shepherds as young as 6 months have been known to join their owners for a slow-paced jog with no long-term effects. It is also ideal to teach your German Shepherd how to walk politely on a leash before increasing the speed. If you do decide to take your German Shepherd running before 12 months of age just look out for signs, they are over doing it. We will go into this later on in the article. For more information on how much exercise your German Shepherd puppy needs please see our article here. When introducing a 12 month old German Shepherd to running it is important to make it a gradual process. Ensuring that your German Shepherd is comfortable with your pace and running duration will help to reduce any injuries which could affect them in the long run. How much exercise does a German Shepherd need? Exercise is essential for your canine companion. Compared to many other breeds of dogs a German shepherd needs a lot of exercise. It is recommended your GSD gets at least 2 hours of exercise a day. Exercise is not only good for your Shepherds physical health and wellbeing, but it also plays an important part in protecting their mental health. If your GSD is not getting enough exercise it can cause both health and behavioural problems. Taking your dog for a run or jog is a great way to keep them fit and healthy. Not all GSD enjoy lots of exercise. You will often find dogs of the same breed who require completely different amounts of exercise. If your German Shepherd still has loads of energy after exercising, they may need an extra form of exercise. If they struggle or refuse to join in on the exercise being provided you may need to scale it back a bit. How to train your German Shepherd to run with you? Ok, so you believe you and your German Shepherd are ready to start running but where do you start? Before you start running with your German Shepherd its good to make sure they know basic commands such as stop and sit. This will come in useful when you have to cross road or give way to other pedestrians. Step 1: Leash training: It is important your German Shepherd is able to walk well on a leash before you pick up the speed. Leash training is good for numerous reasons when running, it helps to keep your shepherd with you, preventing them from getting lost and also helps your German Shepherd to maintain a similar speed to yourself. The average healthy German Shepherd adult can run around mph, whereas the average healthy human can run around miles per hour. So, to be able to keep your German Shepherd at a speed you are both comfortable with a leash plays an important role. Step 2: Interval training: Interval training is a great way to help get your German Shepherd get used to running. This variation of walking and running will help them to gradually build up their stamina and strength. When you first start out or are running for the first time in a while it is worth doing approximately 2 minutes of walking followed by 1 minute of running. Repeat this process for about 20 minutes. Over the next few weeks gradually increase the amount of time you spend running between your 2 minutes of walking. Once your German Shepherd can comfortably run a solid 20 minutes without showing any signs of distress or slowing down to a walking pace you might like to consider moving onto step 3. Step 3: Raising distance: Once your German Shepherd is used to running, you might consider increasing the distance. Depending upon your fitness level and ability your minute run will cover approximated miles. If needed take a few walking breaks in between. After a few weeks, once that extra 10 minutes is able to be comfortably completed add another 10 mins, repeating the process until you are able to reach the required distance. What are the signs you are overexerting your German Shepherd? It is important to not push your German Shepherd too hard, too fast. With patience and determination they will soon be able to join you for longer distances. There are several signs that show you are overexerting the German Shepherd. Some of these signs include; Missing the cues as well as commands Excessive panting and heavy breathing Limping. Of course not—you could seriously injure yourself. Building up to distance running takes time, dedication and effort. Even during the hunt, wolves, coyotes and foxes act only as master sprinters. Other times, they move like our domesticated friends—they lope along, stop, sniff and rest. Dogs might not choose to run like humans do, but many—German shepherds included—can be properly physically conditioned over time, making short runs safe for the dog and enjoyable for you both. Interesting fact: According to Dr. The Workout Windup Though exercise needs are based on age, breed, size and overall health, your dog should spend between 30 minutes to two hours on activity every day. Breeds in the hunting, working or herding groups e. If your GSD is younger than 1 year to 18 months of age, the vet should caution against distance running while bones are growing and growth plates are closing. For detailed advice on training plans, running intervals, distance advice and more, visit active. Allow for warm-up and cool-down periods before and after your run. Walking to the park or around the block beforehand should prepare the muscles for a decent jog. Watch his response to movement and react accordingly. Do a walk instead of a run that day, or do more frequent but shorter walks rather than one long one. Justine Lee, a board-certified emergency critical care veterinary specialist and CEO of VetGirl, the most common dangers associated with exercising with your dog are heat stroke, pad abrasions and soreness. For example, if the temperature is 75 degrees Fahrenheit and the humidity level is at 80 percent, the aggregate is .But, in general, only do intense exercise with your dog if temperature plus humidity are less than .Also keep in mind that dogs overheat quicker than humans. Fur, limited heat loss from sweat evaporation, an inability to self-regulate their pace, an eager-to-please demeanor and a few extra pounds all contribute to one furry combustion engine. Get your dog some water. And when in doubt, walk him home. Dogs play an important role in running companionship. Especially taking puppies to run, we need to be aware of certain facts. Puppies are allowed to run once if they are matured enough. The type of dogs that have short physical features such as Pug, Shih Tzu and Chou Chou cannot overwork because it has breathing troubles and short legs. So these types of dogs can be taken for running for a short duration only. Some breed of dogs such as Labrador, German shepherd, Golden retriever, and Dalmatians are considered good running partners. Puppies are too young like babies. The puppies start to walk at the age of twenty one-twenty eight days. The bone development of puppies takes place nearly six to eight months duration. The puppy has to be taken for a short walk. After going for a regular walk schedule, the puppy can start running practice. Image Credit: unsplash. So we can take the puppy to walk inside the home premises like a balcony, garden, and backyard once they are practised with the short walk schedule. These puppies can be taken for a long walk. After the long walk practice, the puppy can be introduced to running. After introducing the puppy to running, the puppy cannot be forced to run for miles. The puppy can run for a short distance. Comparing people puppies are too younger once which can be exhausted easily. Running creates a health-wise impact on the puppies. It is a repetitive action that affects knees, joints, bones as well as the muscle of the puppies. Speed is a major drawback in running which may exhaust the energy of the puppy. It creates an impact on cardiac and muscular systems. Initially while on the first day of running if the bones and knees become weak for the puppies. So repeated walking on successive days will result in major injuries for the puppies. Warm-up is the best way to make puppies adopt to run for a short distance. The puppies can do short-distance running that too in a lighter way. At the maximum, we should avoid giving heavy running to puppies. Jogging can be harmful to puppies? Jogging is an excellent form of exercise to maintain physical fitness. People who buy new puppies want to maintain the fitness of the puppy. It is a healthier thing to maintain fitness both for humans as well as dogs. In earlier days puppies have a soft skeletal system. For this reason, we must be cautious while taking puppies for jogging. It is best to avoid a rigorous workout during the first year of the puppy because the body of the puppy is not matured. Prolonged workout during jogging leads to injury of the growth plate of the puppies. This growth plate injury may lead to permanent deformities in bones. So it is better to avoid jogging at the early stage of the puppies. German shepherd running Image Credit: pixabay. The height and weight of the dogs are about cm and kg. This well-built appearance of these dogs helps them for long-distance running. It has excellent intelligence and potential working ability. If proper training is given, these dogs are capable of assisting police and military services, explosive detection and acting. It has a better sense of alert. A German shepherd is capable of running a long distance from five to twenty miles. It is because of Well built body muscles and longer legs. The German shepherd can be trained as an athletic type of dog depending upon the training period. A German shepherd is easy to train up as an athletic dog. The speed of the German shepherd is thirty miles per hour. These German shepherds are weight gaining breeds. So it is necessary to exercise regularly to maintain fitness for these dogs. These dogs are able to involve in walking, jogging, swimming as well as running. How to train a German shepherd running with you A German shepherd is one of the best breeds for running. These dogs have stronger stamina for long-distance running. The training steps are as follows: .This dog training starts with teaching basic commands like sit, stand and lay down. The puppy will start listening to your word at the 8th week of age. A shorter running session for 20mins in 2 weeks is more helpful for the dog to learn running strategy. Give rest to the dog in between training sessions with food and playthings. This makes the dog stress free and energetic. Hence the dog will become more active at another session of running practice. The person who is accompanying dogs while running must be friendly and supportive of your dogs. Give positive commands to your dogs during training. These dogs are more intelligent so they will learn the running strategy quickly compared to other breeds. At what age german shepherd puppies like going for runs? Image Credit: pixabay. This is the developing stage of bones and muscles of the young puppies. Puppies need plenty of rest and sleep. Till six months the puppies are ready to go for a walk. This makes the puppies physically active. After twelve months, the puppy will start to mature by growth. This makes the dog physically fit for running. German shepherd breed is strongly developed and well-built, so running is one of the talents in the breed. The character of this breed puppy includes loyalty, courage, and confidence ability to learn many tasks. If we train properly, the German shepherd breed will run for miles of distance. The puppies need training in social behavior and adapting to a new environment. Then it can be trained for running a long distance. Running the dog how much The running distance depends upon the training given to the German shepherd. A healthy German shepherd can run a distance of miles per hour on average. Above this running limit, it is too much for the dog to run a greater distance. Some of the factors are as follows, which influences the running speed of the dog. Here is our latest blog post- Labradoodle Breed Information I think you may also like. How to train a 4-month-old puppy of GSD? The training of puppy socialization is the main part of the GSD puppy. Socialization is nothing but mingling with new persons in the environment. At the early stage, the puppy will learn a lot things from mother. So it should not be separated from the mother. The puppy cannot be forced for over-exercise until one year of age. Then potty training is also essential for the puppy. GSD is an intelligent breed. Hence it is easy to train it. I hope now you have an idea about german shepherd running. We always welcome and appreciate your comments. You may also want to check out our article on how long can a puppy go without water and Is AC good for puppies. As the German Shepherd is such a fast growing breed compared to some other working breeds the opposite is actually more correct. The strain of over exercise on the skeletal make up of a youngster is often irreversible. The stretching of ligaments at too early an age, the strain on young growing joints, or the carrying of too much weight on the overall framework can and will do harm to the young puppy, and lead to problems in adulthood. Consider a young Shepherd in comparison to a 3 — 4 year old human child — certainly not ready to run a marathon even though the spirit may be willing! Should there be any chance that there is already some problem with wear on the joints of the hips and elbows, further advice would be sought as to appropriate exercise. Then, and only then, should you build the dog up to the desired level of fitness you require for whichever field you have chosen — be it show dog, trialing, agility or family companion with the adult animal — complete in growth. Up to twelve months of age, natural free running is the best form of exercise for a youngster, for a young pup, upon tiring, can easily stop when they wish, and not keep on performing because they wish to please and keep up with you! Of course you will wish to lead train and socialise your puppy, but exercise on lead should be no more than that. Maximum time walking the dog at a fast trot of a puppy up to six months of age should be barely five minutes at one instance equivalent to a short stroll around your local block or park and then rest. Puppies need plenty of rest and sleep, just like a young toddler. Certainly they can play and romp in your back yard or in their kennel run, but they will stop when they feel tired, rest and then play again. Over six months — training on lead could extend to ten minutes if you wish, but again, moderation is the best guide, and if a puppy shows an inclination to tire, then stop! Moderation and common sense are the guidelines. Allow your puppy to grow steadily and slowly, and the fun of having a companion with which you can run your kilometres upon adulthood of the dog will not be impaired by the damage you may do,by doing too much, too soon. Use tab to navigate through the menu items. This post may contain links to products that I may receive compensation for at no additional cost to you. View my affiliate disclosure here. The breed originated in Germany and was bred for herding sheep, so they naturally enjoy exercise and running around. GSD's are highly intelligent and keen to have a purpose, making them the ideal running companion. This is perfect as you have recently decided to run a half marathon! How exciting it is that you can train your dog to be ready to run with you! Keep in mind that not all breeds are compatible with a half marathon. S ee this great article in Runner's World that discusses which breeds are ideal for this notable feat. It is also vital that the dog is correctly socialized so that he does not become too territorial. While training, he will meet lots of people with dogs. Many runners take their dogs to run half marathon. Be sure to check your specific race rules and guidelines as not all races permit dogs. At the age of six months old, start him running gradually. By the time he is 1 year old he should be in peak form to run a half marathon. Note that it is highly frowned upon to start race training with your puppy before he is six months old. You both have a lot of consistent training to prepare for the event, and the first step is to take him to the vet to get the best diet advice and undergo a medical check-up. An examination by the vet ensures that the dog is healthy and can begin training for long-distance running. Commence Running Training It is advised if possible to train in the early morning hours prior to work. Not only is this a cooler time of day, but the sun angle is also low, and the traffic is practically non-existent. When you get home, your dog's mental and physical energy will be spent. In turn, he will be calmer and less likely to have separation anxiety while you're at work. Buy a hands-free harness to clip to your waist. With the weather warming and increasing distances, you will also need a running belt to hold both your water bottles unless you opt for a hydration pack , essential for the half marathon. Typically, when you run a half marathon, you will find dogs are well catered for with water bowls along the way. It will take a couple of months for the German Shepherd to get used to long-distance running with a harness, but he will become as committed to it as you are and ready for the next run. The Right Collar for a German Shepherd The collar is equally important for those that don't utilize a harness. A Martingale collar is a good choice as it applies gentle pressure when the dog pulls, and with this collar, he will soon learn to stay close to you. It is a matter of personal preference and what works best for you when running. Hydration for your German Shepherd Your dog can become dehydrated much more quickly than you can, so he must have regular water breaks. While you are running along, teach him some common cues, like: "run, walk, stop," and then he will get to recognize the change of pace. You may even be able to teach him to recognize the word drink, so he will be ready when you stop for that all-important water break. Your GSD will soon get used to half marathon training and will look forward to this bonding experience. Remember your GSD is still relatively young, and you want to build strength and endurance gradually. If oppressive weather conditions are common in your area and, if feasible, consider getting a dog-specific treadmill alongside your treadmill or consider sharing your treadmill. See our article here on training your dog to use a treadmill. Build Muscle and Strength Keep in touch with the vet to see if your dog requires any dietary supplements to aid his fitness training, as hip and joint supplements may be necessary with this breed. Get him checked for fleas and ticks if you live in a tick prone area. If your German Shepherd appears tired or lacking in energy, take him home to rest. When you finish your long-distance runs, allow him to walk slowly home to help him cool down. Since dogs can't utilize foam rollers themselves, give your furry friend a gentle full-body massage when he has cooled off. This will help with lactic acid buildup and help him not be super achy and sore the remainder of the day. This would also be an excellent time to apply balm to his paw pads, as they can become irritated and dry as the miles pile up. As the weeks go by, your German Shepherd will be building endurance and speed along with you. He should by now be running along next to you, and most likely, you will have trained him to run on a particular side of you; preferably, your left side is best. As runners should run against traffic, you put yourself between traffic and your dog. He should know by now that he is not to walk directly in front of you. Keep your training most days to around 3 miles a day, with a longer run of 6 miles once a week. As time goes on, build the 6 miles up to ten miles, but do it gradually. We highly recommend the Hal Higdon half marathon training plans A half marathon is .This is fine for the dog, as he will get plenty of rest in between, and a German Shepherd can build stamina and endurance. Nutrition Requirements As an athlete, your German Shepherd will require a highly nutritious meal plan. It is your job to give him the best food with the half marathon in mind. Not sure what the B. Read our article here. You can offer any cooked meat such as beef, chicken, pork, and duck along with cooked brown rice or rolled oats. It is vital that there are no bones within your cooked meat. A cooked bone can splinter and become fatal to your dog. Dogs also benefit from adding fresh vegetables. Cooked sweet potato is a good choice. Depending on your financial situation and time constraints, a quality dog kibble may be the best choice for you. See our article here on our 10 favorite quality dog kibble foods. Start by feeding your German Shepherd about three cups of good quality kibble per day. As he is training for the half marathon, give him the kibble in the morning and a proper meal of meat and vegetables at night. Give your dog plenty of fresh water. It should be available to him all the time. As with people, a dehydrated dog is an inefficient runner and prone to injuries and light-headedness. Supplements required for Long Distance Running Along with a well-balanced diet, your dog may need some supplements to keep him in optimal health. Consult your vet, but common supplements needed are: P.

You've reached an American Bulldog website. John D. Johnson American Bulldogs, Summerville, GA The Johnson American Bulldog is a breed of dog unlike any other; their sheer strength and courage coupled with their undying loyalty and devotion make them the ultimate breed of dog for the general public and serious canine enthusiast alike. The modern American Bulldog is believed to have descended from the colossus breeds of ancient history similar to other mastiff breeds. The American Bulldogs earliest history is virtually unknown and little if any recorded records exist. The first documented history relating to the American Bulldog was during the late 19th century. These dogs were by no means pets, but rather utility dogs bred and raised for specific duties. These duties included baiting unruly cattle and swine along with guarding property against thievery. These tasks required a dog that feared no man or beast alive, but was still loyal and obedient to their master and keeper. These traits still exist with the Johnson American Bulldog. Since the early "butcher dogs" the American Bulldog had nearly gone extinct and until recently experienced an evolutionary rebirth. This rebirth is due in large part to two dedicated individuals; John D. Johnson and Mildred L. These bulldogs had grown scare in the Northwest region of Georgia, and John desired a dog with the same stamina and grit to protect his farm and livestock. Initially it was a small operation, but through the hard work of John and Mildred it grew into a life long commitment. He was also the first breeder to have his dogs officially registered. John and Mildred have literally supplied the world with their Georgia bred bulldogs. It was their female lines of Collettes, Sugar Dolls and Sugar Tuffies that when bred produced the big boned pups that mature into the lbs. The kennel has recently been trademarked and is now known as Johnson Kennels llc. A new partnership has also been established. This new partnership between two established dog breeders, Mr. John Johnson and Mr. Scott Weaver. All traditional bloodlines exist and new lines are being established. It contains heating and air conditioning for the dogs comfort. There is a separate whelping and nursery room for new litters and weaned pups. And a licensed vet makes regular on site visits. .We at Johnson Kennels llc. We continue to strive for only the best. Our focus is to produce a powerful, yet balanced American Bulldog with a very muscular body representing the standards created by John D. The Real American Bulldog is very stocky, athletic and imposing. For those interested in acquiring a truly magnificent animal for either companionship or protection. Visit our contact information page. We visited Mr. John Daniel Johnson at his farm in Summerville Georgia at the end of .We had a tour of the kennels and Mr. Johnson introduced us to all of his dogs and showed us the puppies that he had available. Johnson a deposit and arranged to drive back down to Mr. When Mr. The dogs registered as Johnson had to have a completely Johnson lineage. Dixie Luckman now owns the Johnson Kennel and the Johnson registry. The original difference between the Johnson and Scott types were the two men, John D. Johnson and Alan Scott. Johnson and Mr. Scott were friends, they both had american bulldogs. As the years went by the two men bred their dogs differently and the lines became more distinct. Johnson wanted as big a bulldog as he could possible get and Mr. Scott had a different idea. Also Known As Johnson Type All of the dogs that we have owned and produced over the years have been mostly Johnson bloodlines. We prefer the heavier boned dogs with shorter noses. Blue was about pounds and 25 inches at the withers. The influences are English Bulldog, some say St. Bernard and Dogue de Bordeaux. I see a lot of terrier and hound influence in the Scott line. These canines are generally white with patches of another color; however, Johnsons have also started appearing in other solid colors and brindle. Here are some shades these majestic pooches come in: Blue Johnson American Bulldog Blue is a faded variation of black occurring due to the presence of a rare mutation. Blue is actually an uncommon coat color for the Johnson Bulldog. Solid blacks are rare, and the black color usually appears on a white coat. In fact, white Johnson American Bulldogs are considered the breed standard. White Johnson American Bulldogs may be pure white or carry patches of another color. This color usually occurs due to crossbreeding the Johnson American Bulldog with another pooch with the brindle gene. Although crossbred canines cost less, they still make lovely pets. Johnson American Bulldog temperament The American Johnson Bulldog temperament can be described as patient, courageous, and protective, making them excellent watchdogs and family pets. They are quick to protect their family and home from any perceived threats. Due to the checkered history of certain bully-type breeds and their association with sports, many people are quick to label the Johnson American Bulldog aggressive. However, these canines are gentle, patient, and caring family pets that would never attack a person or another animal unprovoked. Do American Bulldog Johnson type make great family pets? The Johnson American Bulldogs are loyal, protective, and loving towards their family. Their high pain tolerance makes them excellent companions for children. However, be sure to supervise young children around this breed, as this giant pooch may accidentally hurt them. He can still get along well with other pets if they are properly socialized from an early age. American Johnson Bulldog training The Johnson American Bulldog is an intelligent breed that is easy to train for an experienced owner. They respond well to firm, consistent training, and positive reinforcement. If the training process is not started early, the Johnson standard American Bulldog may become stubborn and uncooperative. Here are some types of training that are essential for Johnson American Bulldogs: Socializing: Socializing your Johnson American Bulldog is one of the most important things you can do for him. Without socialization, he may become aggressive towards other animals and people. Start socializing your pup as early as possible by taking him to puppy classes, dog parks, and playdates with other pups. Obedience training: All pups should know basic obedience commands such as sit, stay, come, and down. Obedience training will not only make your puppy more well-behaved but also strengthen the bond between you and your furry friend. Leash training: All pups should be leash trained so that they can go on walks and hikes with their humans. Start leash training your Johnson American Bulldog as early as possible with a rope dog leash that is heavy-duty and durable. The best way to leash train your pup is to start with short walks around the house or backyard. Gradually increase the length of the walks as your pup gets more comfortable with being on a leash. Johnson American Bulldog living conditions A young Johnson line American Bulldog is a large high-energy pup who needs a spacious backyard with plenty of room to run and play. If you live in an apartment, this might not be the breed for you. Many Johnson American Bulldog owners allow their canine companions to roam freely in their backyard. However, we are aware that some towns or counties have zoning laws that prohibit physical fences. If this is the case with you, you can alternatively use a wireless dog fence to keep your pups safe. This way, they can still roam freely in your backyard and enjoy some sun and fresh air while staying safe and sound. But before you install a wireless dog fence, you may find it helpful to put in place an electronic dog door , especially if you let your K9 friends leave or come back into the house on their own. Many doggy owners love the automatic doggy door because it saves them so much time and headache from opening or closing the door every time their pooch needs to head outside or come back in. So if you work from home or at the office, you may find the electronic dog door to be a lifesaver, both for you and your furry friends. When it comes to bathing your Johnson American Bulldog, once every four weeks should do the trick. It is a good idea to bathe your Johnson American Bulldog after he or she played in mud, or puddle, or had a long hike. When you do bathe your pooch, make sure to use a dog shampoo that not only cleanses but also moisturizes the skin and coat. We specialize in Bully-type, also sometimes referred to as Johnson American Bulldogs. However on occasion we do produce fantastic standard- and hybrid-type American Bulldogs. We breed for functional and balanced temperament allowing for the American Bulldog to be a family member and a companion while having the drive and intelligence to perform desired functions. At Grand Future, we typically produce large American Bulldogs. Males range in lbs and females range in lbs. We have always bred to a significantly stricter breed standard than the current American Bulldog breed standards under U. Dogs with the following characteristics are not shown at conformation shows nor bred in our kennel: 1. Full black mask — this genetic trait is usually a result of another breed having been infused into the gene pool. Usually a dog with a kinked tail itself is not at risk of health complications as a result of the kinked tail. Teeth — dogs missing more than 3 teeth. Dogs lacking full pigmentation are more susceptible to various health problems. Lack of pigment is also responsible for deafness in dogs. We have never produced a deaf dog. Interested in a puppy? We have many repeat buyers — over 30 families have purchased 2,3,4, and even 5 dogs. Our dogs generally love children and have balanced temperament. Having produced over dogs in 7 generations, we have history and data that allows us to make some conclusions that we believe are significant. The very common problem of hip dysplasia that afflicts this breed is nearly non-existent in our kennel. Our dogs tend to have normal locomotion — good movement due to anatomically sound physical structure. Our dogs have never torn ligaments such as the Canine Cruciate Ligament CCL , which leads us to conclude that such problems are likely hereditary in nature. Our dogs have never prematurely died from heart problems, which leads us to conclude that such problems are likely hereditary in nature. Our dogs have never been diagnosed with tracheal hypoplasia — a hereditary genetic defect common in bulldog breeds that leads to potential deadly obstruction of the airway. Our dogs tend to live long. Our foundation dog lived to the age of 15 years and 10 months old. Our dogs have never been afflicted with cancer at a young age. The earliest instance of cancer has been encountered at 8 years of age by one dog. The remainder of cases have been documented at over 10 years of age. The biggest tragedy for an owner is in having to care for a sick dog as a result of poor breeding, and be absolutely helpless as that dog passes in their arms. Exorbitant medical bills end up being paid to prolong the time together even by just a little with the beloved family member. As with any animal breeding program, our kennel is not immune from problems. This drives us to continually improve. We maintain contact and help our owners in any way we can; even at 4AM or during a vacation since we have owners all over the world in various timezones. Our breeding expertise enables us to deliver healthy, beautiful, strong, and intelligent American Bulldog puppies. We provide a contractual health guarantee against the following genetic health problems — hip dysplasia, elbow dysplasia, Canine Cruciate Ligament CCL ruptures, cataracts, entropion, ectropion, heart, kidneys, thyroid, ichthyosis, cryptorchidism, epilepsy, and any neurological disorders including NCL. Our conversation with a prospective owner always involves questions to understand the kind of dog the person would like — the more details the better. If so inclined, the prospective owner can request guidance in picking the puppy based on personality and activity level, temperament, phenotype, and more. We evaluate our puppies at 6 weeks of age on a variety of parameters. We provide lifetime unlimited advice and guidance by phone to owners concerning all subjects relating to dog ownership. You can be sure you will have the information you need to succeed even if this is going to be your first American Bulldog puppy. Because we stand by the quality of our work, we want our owners to participate in our breeding program and we are happy to provide the necessary guidance. Our dogs are also ideal candidates for service animal work. Training a service dog requires a significant investment of time and money, making the genetic health and temperament of the dog even more critical. A service dog needs to be healthy, hassle-free, intelligent and receptive to training, have stable temperament to handle any type of environment, and of course lead a long life disease-free. All of these selective requirements for service dog candidates make Grand Future American Bulldogs an ideal fit. Join us in our mission of producing the best American Bulldogs possible! Professional worry-free shipping worldwide Of course our preference is for you to come visit our home, get acquainted with us, and pick up your new American Bulldog puppy in person. However, we understand that it is not feasible for everyone. Even if you do not live anywhere near Nevada, do not be concerned — we are highly experienced at shipping our American Bulldog puppies worldwide, as even just the list of our Grand Champions and Champions spanning 9 nations attests. We can prepare all necessary export documentation. Search this website.

Aggression towards people, other animals Hyperactivity Sadness, depression and being withdrawn Counter-surfing Digging …to name just the most common few! As previously stated, many of these are perfectly normal behaviors but unwanted when living with a human family. But some are real psychological or pathological problems that need to be properly researched and skillfully addressed, most likely by a vet or professional behaviorist. If the behavior problem is just one of normal canine behavior such as digging, barking, chasing small animals or pulling on the leash, natural behaviors but that are unacceptable or unwanted by an owner, then training alternative and acceptable behaviors in their place is the answer. This still takes knowledge of the particular cause and motivation of the behavior, knowledge and skill to choose and train an alternative behavior and patience and dedication to see the solution through. But these types of problems are solvable by the average owner and solutions for these problems will soon be appearing on this site. The sort of advice that can only really be given and be correct if offered by a qualified and knowledgeable professional. The first step is to see a vet to either identify or rule out any physical or pathological problems, and then be referred to a certified and reputable behavioral specialist. Many cases require a unique approach for which the only advice that can really be given is to seek professional help. We have to remember that Labradors were bred for a particular job and come with hard-wired instinctive and driven behaviors that we developed in them through many generations of selective breeding. Labs have needs and desires that have to be satisfied. They have traits and behaviors so deeply genetically ingrained that you simply cannot eliminate them. Although in most cases you can train alternative more acceptable behaviors. There are of course also more severe and worrying behavior problems, stemming from either pathological or deep-seated psychological issues. With understanding, patience, dedication, a caring attitude and a carefully planned scientific approach, almost all problems can be overcome or at least successfully managed. Helps ease anxiety in their new home. We love using Bully Sticks to help divert these unwanted behaviors. For a list of all the supplies we get for our new service dog puppies check out our New Puppy Checklist on the PuppyInTraining. Some may have seen i wrote a post about my muppet the other days in regards to his appalling behavior when coming inside the house. .We have tried suggestions on there and he's still mental as ever but we're trying to remain positive and patient with him. .My other issue is this behaviour is now becoming more apparent than before both inside and outside the house.He was normally quiet calm, hypo at times like any lab but was content with his surroundings and listening to us. At the moment he is completely different, he's destroying beds just lost number 4 , he's pulling washing off the line while i'm standing there hanging it out which he's never done we have it guarded off normally , he gnawing on my arms, legs, feet and even his toys are copping it surely he can't be teething at 10 months , he's jumping way more than normal, won't listen to commands which he always has listened too and feels that every time we open the door to go inside he will ignore us and come rushing in and run away so we can't put him outside. The only way we have managed to put him outside is with a treat and slowly walk with him to the door and gentle push him outside, which i feel is praising bad behaviour. Nothing different has changed in our routine, we have breafast, he gets a bone, we go for a walk in early afternoon, have a game later than afternoon then dinner around 5. He also repeated all this bad behaviour at my parents house yesterday when he too pulled washing off there line, nearly knock my father over from jumping up at him and wouldn't listen even to a deep mans voice. .He is desexed, and is getting a good decent walk everyday, only thing i can put it down to is slight separation anxiety, yet there is no whinging or crying like he has when he was a small pup, or his brain is on holidays. .Any help would be greatly appreciated. Many things that we call behavior problems are just Labradors following their natural tendencies. Most bad behaviors are caused by ignorance or lack of training. When we start seeing bad habits in our Lab we need to work on redirecting him toward more acceptable behavior. Fortunately, Labradors are eager to please and are easily trained, but it does take time and consistency. Natural vs. Abnormal Behavior Natural Behavior Many behaviors that become problems are just natural tendencies for your Lab. Barking, digging, and chewing are just a few of the things that Labradors naturally do but when they become a nuisance or destructive these behaviors need to be corrected. Owners need to keep in mind the natural tendencies of the breed of dog they have chosen. Many people choose Labs because of their intelligence. You need to keep in mind that with intelligence comes a tendency to get bored if not properly stimulated mentally and physically. They also choose Labradors because they are loyal and great companions. Since they are loyal they are also protective which means they will bark at any intrusion they think may be a threat. They love your companionship, so when left alone they may get anxious and chew on things. Part of being a good owner is to teach your Labrador acceptable behaviors that still help to meet the needs of his natural tendencies. Abnormal Behavior Abnormal behaviors tend to be more psychological. Many Labs can suffer from anxiety, excessive fear, and aggression issues. These behaviors are not part of their natural inclinations. Usually, for these types of issues, you will need professional help from a dog behaviorist or your vet. You will need someone who is trained to find the root of the problem and help treat your dog. Correction Methods There are several different methods that you can use to help keep your Labrador from destructive behavior. Redirection When your Lab misbehaves he is usually bored or looking for attention. If you yell at him to correct him he still perceives this as a form of attention and this only reinforces the behavior. Remember most of these behaviors are just natural Labrador tendencies. You need to calmly stop him from the behavior and redirect him to a similar activity that is acceptable. Once he is engaged with the acceptable toy, reward him for that behavior. You will see some more examples of redirection listed in the Common Behavior Issues section below. This just means removing the objects that tempt your Lab into bad behavior. It may mean keeping items off of lower levels where he can easily reach them and chew them up, or perhaps putting up a small wire-mesh fence to protect your garden. However, basic commands give your Labrador a foundation of structure. These commands start to teach him to listen to you and obey. If he learns to follow these verbal directions you can use them to redirect his attention and guide him toward better behaviors. Keep a Schedule Labs like structure. They like to know what to expect throughout their day. If you stick to a fairly firm schedule for eating, walking, play time, and bedtime your dog will know what to expect throughout his day and will be less likely to misbehave. Exercise Labradors often partake in destructive behavior out of boredom or to burn off excess energy. A good way to deal with this is to make sure he gets plenty of exercise. Take him for walks, play fetch, or go for a jog. A tired Lab is a well-behaved Lab. Mental Exercise This one goes along with the one above. Labradors are intelligent and need to be mentally exercised as well as physically exercised. Play a game of hide-and-seek or find-the-toy with your Lab. Teach him some new tricks or let him play with some type of puzzle toy. All of these things will help him use up energy and not act out because of boredom. Keep Them Indoors Labradors are social animals and love to be near people. If you tend to leave him outside a lot he will become lonely. This can lead to issues like excessive barking, howling, and digging. It is best for Labs to be kept indoors. Nipping and Rough Play Puppies tend to nip all the time. Their mouth is what they use to explore their world. If you allow them to continue with this behavior it can become a biting issue as they get older. Puppies who stay with their litters until they are 8 or 9 weeks old tend to learn the consequences of nipping from their littermates. They learn that if they nip too hard their playmate tends to yelp and run away. This teaches them that when they nip it can lead to the end of playtime. It is important for you to reinforce this information. When your puppy nips you, yelp like a dog and walk away. Let him know that this behavior puts an end to playtime. The same training can be used for rough play. When you rough play with your puppy you are teaching him that this is an acceptable behavior. That may be fine when he is a puppy but think about a pound Labrador wanting to play rough. When your Lab starts to play too rough then end the play time. Walk away and let him know that this is not acceptable. Once your puppy learns that certain behaviors end his playtime he will stop doing them. It is your job to teach your puppy to play correctly. Chewing Your Labrador loves chewing. You need to teach him. Once you have taken the object away give him a toy that he is allowed to chew on and reward him for chewing on that. Puppies usually chew to explore or expend energy. Older dogs usually chew out of natural habit but sometimes they chew out of anxiety, boredom, or fear. If your dog is chewing when you are around this is probably a regular behavior. However, if he only chews when you are away it may be stress-related. You will need to deal with the root of the problem and find ways to relieve his anxiety before you can resolve the chewing issue. Digging Digging comes naturally to dogs. They like to dig to bury things, to create a cool place to lay, and to hunt for critters in the ground. Unfortunately, when they are doing this they are often digging up your garden or lawn. A good redirection for this is to create a digging box for your dog. All you need is a sandbox filled with soft, diggable dirt. You may want to bury some toys to encourage him to dig in this area. When he digs in the box reward him for his good behavior. Excessive Barking All dogs bark. This is a normal behavior for them. They bark to let you know that someone is outside, that they are hungry, that they want to play… and the list goes on. Constant barking is not normal and it can be quite annoying for you and your neighbors. If your Labrador is barking excessively try to figure out why. Is he lonely? Is he bored? Labs that are left outside a lot tend to bark a lot, especially at night. They are bored and lonely and missing interaction. They want your attention and are making noise to get it. The best way to end this type of barking is to bring your Labrador inside. Some other ways to curb unwanted barking are to make sure your Lab has plenty of exercise and block out things that can cause him to bark. Play soft, calming music to keep him from being anxious. When he is barking excessively redirect him to another activity. It is usually a good idea to get him to sit first and calm down. Once he is calm give him something else to do. An occasional cheese or peanut butter filled toy is a great redirection. It is hard to bark when your mouth is full of peanut butter. Jumping Up When your Labrador is a puppy you probably encouraged him to jump up on you. It was so cute to watch him do that. Labs get so excited when they see you or any other human that they can befriend. They want to jump up and meet everyone face-to-face. One way to redirect this behavior is to start when your Labrador is little. Teach him to sit when he hears someone at the door and to stay until you allow him to get up. Quietly and calmly introduce him to the new person and reward him with lots of petting. If he does jump up, politely ask the person not to pet him but to turn away. He will learn that jumping up does not get him the attention that he is looking for. Occasionally you may have to remove the dog from the situation until he calms down. Begging Labs love food! He is also an optimist. He hopes that if you have food and he keeps begging eventually a tidbit will come his way. Redirect by teaching him to sit or lay by your feet during meal times. NEVER give him anything from the table. You will only be fueling his optimism. If you want to reward him with some scraps do it at the end of the meal in his regular dinner bowl away from the dining table. House Soiling If your Labrador has been house-trained for a considerable time, but then suddenly starts having accidents, he may have a medical issue. Sometimes these issues are caused by bladder problems, diabetes, or several other medical issues. If your Lab has arthritis it may be painful for him to go outside as often as he needs to. If you think it may be a medical issue take him to the vet and have him checked over. Sometimes this is a stress issue. Has something changed in the house? Did you get a new pet? If there is a reason for his stress try to work through that and see if it ends the soiling issue. If your dog is still young he may just be regressing a little. Go through the potty training steps with him again. Take him out frequently and reward him when he goes outside. Separation Anxiety As I have said before, Labradors are highly social animals. They do not like being left alone. That said, you will inevitably have to leave the house at some point. If your dog becomes overly anxious when you leave this could lead to other destructive behaviors like chewing, barking, etc. Try to desensitize him to being left alone. Start out by leaving him alone for short periods of time, then gradually lengthen the duration. You may also want to leave the TV or music on for your dog. Crating you Lab is also an option. It helps him feel more secure and less fearful. Dogs are pack animals and having another playmate in the house can help keep him occupied. Another option is to find someone who can stop by and take him for a walk every day. If your Lab remains extremely anxious then there are medications that can help. Talk to your vet and see what she recommends. Aggression Dog aggression seems to be on the rise. About 4. Roughly 10 people are killed by dogs every year. Most people-directed aggression is caused by stress. Sometimes it is also caused by pain. If your Labrador is in pain because of arthritis or another issue he can be quite snappish. Also, if your dog is losing his sight or hearing then he can be easily startled and snap at the person who startled him. If your Lab is acting out aggressively you need to look for professional help. Talk to your vet or find a good behaviorist. If you keep him entertained, well-exercised and give him lots of attention then chances are the behavior issues will decrease. Teach him alternate, acceptable behaviors and reward him when he behaves. If you see signs of major stress or aggression then seek out professional help. Taking care of your Lab and teaching him proper behavior takes time but in my opinion, the love and affection you receive make it all worth it! Featured Photo courtesy smerikal Did you find this article helpful? Click on one of the Share Links below to share it with a friend. Related articles:. When learning how to decipher the different types of dog speak, you need to understand why your Labrador is barking so much. Labradors bark for many reasons, including alerting you of danger, such as a stranger. Here are some examples: A warning or alert bark will be quick and sharp and may become more intense. A Labrador demanding something such as food or attention will have a piercing and persistent bark directed at you. A bored dog will have a repetitive monotone bark. A Labrador suffering from distress such as separation anxiety, or panic, will have a high-pitched and highly repetitive bark. As the dog gets more stressed, the barking may become even higher pitched or howling. A fearful or suspicious bark will be fast and low. A playful bark will be high-pitched, more tonal, and modulated. Labradors are creatures of habit, thrive on routine, and are one smart cookie. So, if your Lab constantly barks at you, you may wonder why? Your Labrador will bark at you demand barking to communicate various things to you, especially when he wants to get your attention or get something specific from you, such as food, play, or to go outside. Dogs soon learn that they can get what they want, mainly if you usually give in. The secret is to try and understand why your dog is barking in the first place and prevent it from occurring, for example, by ensuring he is sufficiently exercised. When your Labrador barks at you, and notably, if he also stares at you — this is known as demand barking. He will eventually learn that when he is calm, he receives something positive. Is your dog keeping you awake at night? Other than occasionally needing a toilet break or if he is ill or in pain, if this has become a regular occurrence, you will want to put a stop to it — quickly! So, why does your Labrador bark overnight? Your Labrador might bark at night to alert you of a danger or if he is anxious, fearful, or purely wants attention. Here are some tips to prevent your Labrador from barking at night: Use a crate from the first night you bring your dog home. Choose something like the all-inclusive Midwest for Pets icrate from Amazon. It comes with everything you need, such as a divider and a removable wipe-clean tray. This one also gives you the option of a single or double door, which is handy. But should you let your Labrador Puppy sleep with you? You have to ignore him. It can be hard to do this on the first night you bring your new puppy home, but you will undoubtedly thank me for this advice! Ensure your dog is comfortable whether you leave him in a bed or crate. Have water and toys handy. Make sure your Labrador has been exercised enough throughout the day. Most well-exercised dogs are desperate to go to bed at night to enjoy a sound sleep! Why Do Labradors Howl? Most people will associate howling with the wolf-like Siberian Husky. But did you know your Labrador also manifests this wolf-ancestry behavior once in a while? Labradors howl for many reasons, such as to warn you about a danger they can sense or respond to another howling dog in the neighborhood. They may also howl when reacting to high-pitched sounds such as sirens or music, seeking attention, if in pain or distress, or if suffering from separation anxiety. Usually, howling is a form of communication that dogs use outside their usual barking, groaning, or whining. Unless it is incessant, you have a normal dog. If your Labrador is howling to get your attention, treat this behavior similarly to demand barking. You need to ignore him and teach him that howling at you will not work. When he goes quiet and stops howling for a few seconds, use positive reinforcement, such as treats, and toys, with lots of verbal praise. Why Do Labradors Whine? Have you ever taken your dog on a car trip and heard the most horrendous whining as you park up somewhere? You may wonder why your Labrador is whining. Consult your vet if stress and anxiety have become an issue for your dog, as anti-anxiety medication may help. Separation anxiety. Treatments include counterconditioning that focuses on developing an association between being alone and good things, like treats. Desensitizing techniques can also help, along with medication. Again, consult your vet or a professional animal behaviorist. Attention-seeking whining is similar to demand barking, as mentioned in the section above. You will need to teach your Labrador that remaining quiet will lead to a more positive outcome. Appeasement whining is normal canine behavior and occurs when your dog tries to appease people or other dogs when they perceive aggression or a threat. Never yell or physically punish your Lab, which only causes fear and resentment. Why Do Labradors Groan? My dog will often groan with pleasure after eating a meal and flopping down with a full belly! Sometimes, it can be really amusing. But why does your Labrador groan? Medical reasons can also be the cause, e. Behavioral groaning is of no concern and is normal canine behavior. However, consult your vet if you suspect your Lab is groaning due to a medical reason. Labrador Retriever behavior consisting of lying or sitting on your feet can be cute — but sometimes annoying! So what exactly does it mean? When your Labrador lays on your feet, it can mean a few things, such as seeking and offering protection, wanting attention, or initiating play. Other reasons are to seek or show affection, feel warm and cozy, or mark his territory by spreading his scent on you. Here are a few examples of why your Labrador may lay on your feet, sit on your feet, or even lay on you! Seek and offer protection. Your Labrador will lay at your feet to feel safe and offer you protection simultaneously. Among pack dogs, the alpha has a prominent position. So, laying at your feet shows that he recognizes you as the alpha. But he also feels safe and secure alongside you. To seek attention or initiate play. Seek and show affection. Your Labrador may lay on your feet or sit on you to seek affection or show you their devotion. Labs are very affectionate and friendly, have a warm temperament, and love to cuddle. For warmth. Have you ever wondered why pack dogs would lie close together, especially in cold weather? Most pack dogs would lie close to each other to keep warm. Territory marking. Your Labrador will communicate that he belongs to you by spreading his scent on you. So, laying or sitting on your feet, lap, or belly whenever you sit or lie down is his way of labeling you with his scent. A study of 32 dogs showed that dogs preferred to be closer to pleasant people. You may wonder why your Lab will circle his bed, an area of the carpet or rug before lying down. Dogs may also assess their laying spot for anything harmful, such as vermin, or could cause them injuries before making a comfy nest. Despite centuries of domestication, there is little scientific data to prove the above — except for the belief that dogs circle before lying down to make a comfy nest. This small study of 62 dogs suggested that dogs are more likely to circle before lying down when presented with a soft, uneven surface to make a temporary nest to sleep. OCD is a psychological condition that often has a genetic tendency. Stricken dogs will repeatedly perform normal canine behavior and often fail to respond to therapy. Dogs worried about predators and protected their bellies by sleeping on them in the wild. Sleeping belly-down also allowed them to get up quickly if needed. So why do Labradors sometimes sleep on their back? Labradors sleep on their back with their paws in the air to cool down or when they feel very relaxed with their environment and are at ease exposing their belly. This shift is the result of hundreds of years of dog domestication. One of the cutest sleeping positions of puppies is when they sleep upside down — they are just more comfortable sleeping on their backs! Adult Labradors that sleep on their back for a while are also adorable. They are trusting of you and will no doubt sleep anywhere. Labradors may roll on their back for many different reasons. This dog behavior might occur when your Lab is alone, playing with you, or when with other dogs. Labradors roll on their back when seeking attention from you, e. Or to groom or scratch themselves, mark territory, change their body smell getting rid of a shampoo aroma , show confidence or contentment, or regulate body temperature. A roll on the back is often interpreted as being submissive during dog play. However, research has shown that rolling on the back is a combat tactic, not an act of submission. Your Labrador may roll over when playing with other dogs for two key reasons: To avoid a bite on the side of the neck be defensive. To launch an attack be offensive. Labradors will often roll over to scratch their back — since they cannot reach it with their paws! This could be normal scratching, but it could also be due to a flea or tick infestation. How To Solve Scratching! Labs will roll on their back to get a rub or tickle on their tummy when playing. So, avoid it if you do not want him to always ask for it! Your dog may also roll on his back to cool down. Why Do Labradors Roll in Poop? This is one of the weird dog behaviors that we find a little difficult to understand — rolling in stinky things, such as fox and badger feces or bird droppings! Some dogs love to cover themselves in foul smells that leave you spluttering in disgust. So, why do Labradors roll in poop? Dogs like pungent scents, and they encourage rolling action. Wild dogs had to hunt to survive. Your Labrador is leaving his scent behind. Your dog might be trying to leave his scent, similar to marking or spraying behavior. Your dog is interacting with you, his pack! Other packmates would track the scent back in the wild, which helped with their hunting. So, now you know why your Labrador rolls in poop, how do you prevent him from returning with a foul, pungent stench? When out on a walk with your dog, stay alert and limit his poo-rolling activities. Learn to anticipate it right before it begins. If I notice my dog sniffing or tracking the ground with greater intensity, I know she can smell the strong scent of the fox. Excitement urination is mainly associated with puppies, and most dogs will grow out of this behavior. But why do Labs pee when excited? Labradors pee when excited due to becoming exceptionally excited during greetings and playtime. Other causes are incomplete housetraining, accidental reinforcement, genetic predisposition, or a medical condition such as urinary bladder dysfunction or incontinence in elderly dogs. I have a complete guide to potty training your Labrador if you need any help in that department. Once you have ruled out medical causes, there are some things you can do to prevent your Labrador from peeing when excited: Keep greetings low-key; stay calm and quiet. Greet your puppy outside when you return home. Take him outside to potty, and use positive reinforcement. Clean up the mess with an enzymatic cleaner. This is when dogs will pee to mark their territory. Do you find it funny when your Labrador chases his tail? Labrador Retrievers are high-energy dogs, and most behavioral issues stem from monotony and insufficient exercise. Healthy adult dogs need at least two hours of daily activity, consisting of various walking, off-leash running, fetch, frisbee, agility, or swimming — Labs love to swim! If you laugh every time your Labrador chases his tail, you inadvertently reinforce his attention-seeking behavior. Labs are eager to please you, and your encouragement acts as positive reinforcement. He will, therefore, keep doing it, especially if he needs you to notice him! Has your Labrador been keeping an eye on you? Do you sense him intently staring at you from the corner of the room? Some stares may be cute, others not so. Your Labrador stares at you to communicate with you. Examples are expressing love and devotion, seeking attention, or manipulating you to get what he wants, such as food or playtime. He may also stare at you to communicate displeasure, sense your mood, or when resource guarding. Here are some examples: Seek Attention. Labradors will stare at you to seek your attention. His stare serves to remind you that he needs his meal too! Manipulate you to get something. When your Lab stares at you with eyes of pity, he wants you to concede and let him have his way! My dog will sit in front of me every evening and intensely stare when she wants me to play. In the wolf world, staring is rude and threatening, and some dogs may retain that trait. So, if your dog stares at you intensely, without blinking, and has a stiff stance, he might be communicating some displeasure. And if the uninterrupted hard stare is directed towards a stranger, they should back away and not stare back! Resource guarding. This is often combined with a hard, aggressive stare where your Lab will guard his food or toys. Resource guarding is a behavior problem, and you may need to consult a professional dog behaviorist. Check out this article for greater insight into this topic, Resource Guarding in Labradors. Final Thoughts As you have now learned, there are many Labrador behaviors. Most are entirely natural and designed to seek attention, protect, show dominance or defensiveness, express feelings, show affection, or mark territory. However, some dog behaviors may be a sign of an underlying medical issue. But you should now be able to identify those concerning ones where you should visit your vet. Related Posts You May Like:. Of course, it all happens much faster in them though, because they pack it all into and average of just 12 or 13 years. Between 6 and 12 months old, they will enter adolescence. At a year old, they are a mature adolescent. Sometime between 2 and 3 years old they become physically and mentally mature. And at 9 years old, they start to become seniors. Labrador behavior by age: the first 6 months Infant Labradors are champion nappers, attached to their primary carer to the point of clinginess, playful, and impulsive. Sleep patterns Young Labrador puppies are growing and learning fast, and they need a lot of sleep to support their development. So, they make up for it by napping frequently during the day. Which is alright for them, even though it can be cripplingly tiring for us! But hang in there — most puppies are sleeping through the night at 14 weeks old. After that they will gradually start waking earlier in the morning too. There is a double whammy of reasons for this. Firstly, they are instinctively aware that they are still too small and vulnerable to survive alone. Secondly, Labradors have been bred over many generations to be innately people-focussed, since dogs who were naturally motivated to remain close to their owners made better workers. Playfulness Labrador puppies spend more time playing than at any other time in their lives. But lots of first time puppy parents are taken aback by exactly how ferocious puppy play behavior can be! Barking, growling, lunging, pouncing, and biting are all completely normal elements of puppy play. In the wild, they would be valuable practice for hunting in future, and the natural instinct to start practicing early lives on, even this long after domestication. Impulsiveness Puppies of all types are generally a chaotic presence. They have very little impulse control, so they rarely sit still for long, and they cannot resist temptation. Make sure those shoes are kept out of reach in the first place, and give your puppy plenty of suitable toys instead. The sweet spot There is a point when a Labrador puppy is roughly akin to an 8 year old child. They sleep well, use the toilet in the right place, understand instructions, and hang off your every word. A whole new stage of Labrador behavior is coming! If we think of it in terms of their wild ancestors again, they are no longer so vulnerable and reliant on the protection of adults around them. And time to start thinking for themselves, in anticipation of being an self-sufficient adult soon. You might start to discover that the little puppy who never left your side off the leash will suddenly cross soccer fields to say hello to another dog. These are all normal parts of growing up. During this stage, you need to protect your cues by not using them when your dog is likely to ignore you, and manage their opportunities to make unwanted decisions instead. For example, by using a long line, or exercising them in a secure field. Adolescence is also associated with the onset of sex differences in behavior. For example, unneutered male dogs tend to carry out more scent marking than either spayed or intact females, or neutered males. And unspayed female dogs will start going into heat every 6 months or so. As they become more independent, and stop relying on others to look out for them, they instinctively become more cautious about new and unfamiliar things as well. If this happens, the key is not to push them to handle more than they are comfortable with — given them space, and and gradually restore they emotional response to a positive one using treats. Labrador behavior by age: adulthood By the time your Labrador is 2 or 3 years old, their physical and emotional journey to adulthood is complete. Hopefully, if you socialized them carefully as a puppy, and trained them consistently until now, they have become all the things you dreamed of. And at last, they have reached a point where if you treat them consistently, their behavior will remain consistent too. The Labrador breed is famous for being friendly and easy company. They are exceptional at learning and remembering new cues, and famously food motivated, so teaching and maintaining good manners should be straightforward. But without enough exercise they might resort to unwanted behaviors such as chewing furniture, barking or digging in the garden. Factors which will affect the behavior of your mature adult Labrador include: The temperament of their parents Socialization they received as a puppy Training How much physical exercise they get How much mental stimulation they receive Diet How much time they spend alone Health factors Positive and negative experiences An example of how health factors and experience can affect behavior is if a Lab experiencing joint pain from hip dysplasia is jumped on by a playful younger dog. This could make them reactive towards encounters with other dogs in future, because they want to warn off another potentially painful experience. Labrador behavior by age: the senior years In veterinary terms, Labradors are considered senior from roughly 9 years old onwards. However, many Labs remain active long past this point. The average retirement age of Labradors working as gundogs is 10 years old , and this is more likely to be due to physical factors such as arthritis or deafness than not being mentally up to the job any more. But, old age is associated with a broad range of physical changes, and increased likelihood of illnesses, many of which can cause behavior changes. For example Senior dogs are more likely to be diagnosed with diabetes , and are less able to fight off infections like UTIs. Which means their toilet habits might change, including needing to get up in the night to pee again. Sensory changes such as sight and hearing loss mean they might become less responsive to your cues, or less confident in unfamiliar situations. Physical changes like loss of muscle mass and degeneration of their joints means they might slow down, and be less interested in things they used to enjoy, like walks or playing fetch. The older they get, the more likely dogs are to show signs of canine cognitive dysfunction CCD , which his akin to dementia in humans. CCD may include behavior changes such as night waking, forgetfulness, and becoming disorientated. Take your senior dog for regular veterinary checks to help manage these changes, and for practical advice on making their golden years as comfortable as possible. Labrador behavior by age — summary Labrador behavior by age can be viewed in terms of four distinct periods — puppyhood, adolescence, adulthood and senior years. Adulthood is the easiest, and thankfully the longest too! Whilst all the other stages present their own unique challenges, they are just that — stages, which will pass. Knowing what to expect makes them easier to manage, and realizing they are transient helps us appreciate the privilege of spending a lifetime with our Labs. Have you got any tips for surviving the puppy and adolescent stages?

They will want to be with you. Have a crate or bed next to your bed for at least the first few weeks while you get them into a Puppy night-time routine. Here is how to get a puppy to sleep through the night. Alone Training Teaching your Pug puppy that they can be totally fine being left alone can be done with stuffed chew toys, time and patience. Remember to do it slowly to avoid any stress! Toilet Training Training Practically every website you read may tell you that Toilet training your Pug puppy can be a challenge. As with alone training, start sooner rather than later. Of course, if they run into any birds, butterflies and hear planes flying over, it will be great for them to get acquainted already. Have fun gathering surfaces with different textures for them to explore, like synthetic grass, tiles, and soil. Use treats! Remember to use lots of treats and praise when training. They love making your tail wag! Repeat their name to them a lot in the first week, so it really starts to click. Recall — How to teach your Pug puppy to come back when called — This is important for safety. Pugs generally stay close, but they can be very friendly and want to run up to people and other dogs for a bit of a cuddle, so a good recall will always help. But they can enjoy fetch games on a smaller scale, get on the floor and interact and play with your Pug puppy to learn what they enjoy. This will help to avoid resource guarding. Husbandry Tasks Pugs love affection but should be handled with care. Be mindful to not treat them like toys. Not going to blame children to think they are toys though — the resemblance is uncanny. To do this we want to teach them that hands will do nice things to them so use plenty of treats when handling your puppy. Week 2 — Training your Pug puppy Week 2 already! Pug Exercise Overview Exercising your Pug plays an essential role in long-term health and is a vital part of overall care. While you must take care when exercising your little guy or gal, by no means should you avoid it or be afraid of it. A sedentary Pug is an unhealthy Pug. The key is to find the right balance. The Benefits of Exercising a Pug There are many reasons to keep your Pug active: 1 It helps maintain muscle tone which in turn promotes good posture and proper support surrounding the hips and knees. Since this breed is prone to elbow dysplasia, Legg-Calve-Perthes and hip dysplasia, this is a very relevant benefit. Exercise Restrictions for Pugs Pugs can and should be exercised every day. However, there are some restrictions to keep in mind. You will want to avoid: 1 Excessive exercise when under 10 months old. This is a time of rapid growth and very excessive exercise can affect growth plates, the soft areas at the end of bones where cells continually divide, allowing bones to properly grow as the pup matures into his adult size. Once growth is complete, the plates close. If a puppy is put under too much physical stress, there can be damage to those plates which can lead to malformed or shortened limb s. Normal walking and play are not considered excessive. You will want to avoid lengthy full-out runs or forcing activity when a pup has reached his limit. This breed is prone to bloat. To help prevent this, avoid having your dog run around in the yard or taking a purposeful, brisk walk until one hour has passed after a meal. Pugs, being a brachycephalic breed, have some level of stenotic nares narrow nostrils and elongated palate soft tissue at the back of the root of the mouth partially blocks the windpipe. This can cause noisy breathing and it limits to what extent a Pug can endure physical activity. Heavy breathing is also an indication of heat stress that if not addressed can lead to heat stroke. During an exercise session, breaks should be taken every 15 minutes or so; but, should be halted if a Pug is struggling to catch their breath. When the temperature is soaring and especially if the air is very humid this can exacerbate breathing issues. Activity may need to be scaled back or brought inside. Age to Start Exercising a Pug If you just brought home a new puppy, you may be very eager to start taking your Pug for walks around the neighborhood or head out to the dog park. However, Pug puppies should not be brought out to public places for exercise until all puppy shots have been given. This is typically by the age of 12 to 14 months old. You will want to confirm this with your Pug's veterinarian. This should be a light to moderate cardio that slightly increases heart rate and keeps a Pug's body in motion. This can be greatly extended for Pugs that are healthy and enthusiastic to stay more active than this. With precautions in place, a Pug can go for an hour walk or more and there can be 3 to 4 exercise sessions per day. Exercise frequency and duration can be adjusted as needed. Weather including hot summer days or freezing winter days can affect a Pug's tolerance for outdoor activity. It can help to split up exercise sessions into shorter intervals, for example, four minute walks as opposed to two minute walks. And, as a Pug transitions into the senior years or if there is a develop of hip or joint issues, exercise may need to be scaled back. In most cases, there is never a valid reason to completely stop exercising a Pug since remaining sedentary often leads to a wide range of health issues. Going for walks is the most traditional method of ensuring that a dog meets their exercise requirements and for good reasons. There is always a Point A and a Point B which gives you both a goal and helps ensure proper duration. And, unlike free-running, intensity can be adjusted by you, as you see fit. This is another excellent way to keep a Pug active. This refers to a controlled physical activity session, often with alternating short bouts of cardio and rest. The classic game of fetch fits into this category and is a good choice since most dogs find it to be very enjoyable and it helps strengthen the owner-dog bond. In addition, fetch can be played both indoors and out, making this perfect no matter the weather. Tips for Walking Your Pug By following some easy guidelines, you can take your Pug for walks knowing that you are allowing your dog to reap the benefits of exercise in a safe manner. When exercising a Pug, breathing-related issues must always stay a top priority. And, the accessories that you place on your Pug play a huge role in this. Collars place pressure and tension against the windpipe which can severely impact a Pug's ability to breath. Each pull on the leash or lunge to the side puts compression on already stressed airway structures. Avoid this by using a harness. This distributes tension from the leash onto the shoulders, back, and chest where Pugs have strong skeletal muscles. There are different types of harnesses including step-in and pull-overs, straps and vests. One recommended one is the Puppia Soft B Vest Harness which is an easy step-in design nothing needs to be pulled over the head with an air-mesh fabric that keeps a Pug comfortable and cool, and an easy-close Velcro flap on the back. When you take your Pug for walks, you will want to be in control of the pace and the easiest way to accomplish this is to have your Pug in a heeling position; this means to your immediate left and no further ahead than the extension of your foot. For this, you will hold the handle of the leash in your right hand, allow the leash to cross past your body, and then grip it near your left hip. Using a 6-foot leash or a retractable leash will help you feel comfortable when doing this. For this, you may wish to consider the Flexi Retractable Dog Leash which has a very comfortable grip and a one-handed brake button. Offer a break for rest and hydration at the halfway mark of a short walk and every 15 to 20 minutes on a long walk. This should be done even if your Pug seems to be handling their exercise just fine and there are no signs of overheating. You may wish to bring along a collapsible bowl and a chilled water bottle or an all-in-one option like the Tuff Pupper Portable Water Bottle. Concrete, pavement, and brick can all reach over F degrees during the summertime which can cause burns to the paws. If you cannot hold your palm to the surface for a count of 5, it's too hot for your Pug to walk on. Paw wax see tip 7, ahead , staying in the shade, or rescheduling walks for early morning and later in the evening can help with this; generally taking your Pug out before 10 AM and after 5 PM will help you avoid the hottest parts of the day. Keep your Pug securely in a heel position so you can react to and help with any traction issues. Paw wax see next tip can help with this. On days that the temperature is below freezing, limit the duration of the walk. And, during stormy weather snow or ice storms your dog's safety is more important than that one exercise session, so the walk may need to be put on hold. Paws take a beating when a dog is out and about. Hot walking surfaces, frozen walking surfaces, allergens, irritants, and slippery small gravel or ice surfaces are all possible issues. Applying a paw wax can help with all of these aspects. A good one to use is Musher's Secret Paw Protection Wax ; this absorbs pretty quickly, only has to be applied once every 2 weeks, and does a great job at offering a breathable layer of protection and better traction. The last thing you want to happen is that your Pug tires out once you're at the halfway mark and still need to turn around and cover the same amount of distance to return home. On the first day, go half the distance and see how your Pug did. You can then add on more distance the next time. With your little guy or gal on a harness and in the heeling position previous tip 1 , you can speed up, slow down, go around telephone poles, swerve around bushes, etc. This can be played in many places including your own yard or a park or can be kept inside on days with bad weather as long as you have room in your house. Some dogs naturally know how to play and others need a bit of time to catch on. Here are some tips to keep this a fun and beneficial activity. If this is going to replace a walk, set a timer for 15 to 20 minutes. The more animated you are and the more you let yourself laugh, the more your Pug will want to chase after the fetch toy and enjoying bringing it back to you for another go. Even if your Pug can't catch the ball in the air or is a bit confused about what to do, your encouraging words will keep things moving along. Give praise for 'good tries' and effort that your Pug puts into the game. And, offer a reward treat when the game is complete. A fun fetch toy for outside games is the Chuckit! Flying Squirrel Spinning Toy ; this brightly colored fabric toy does some pretty wild soaring and is easy for a dog to mouth. And, if you have some space in your house like a large room or a long hallway, you can play fetch with your Pug using a toy like the Chuckit! Indoor Roller Dog Toy. There is an optional launcher that shoots the ball for you, if your arm needs a rest. While you do want to keep your Pug moving for at least 15 minutes, it's best to end the game while your little guy or gal is still having fun. This will help your puppy or dog look forward to the next session. If your Pug has a hard time accepting that the game is over and is clamoring at you to continue, you can give one last throw and then offer a reward treat as a sign that the session is truly over. Switching to a new activity like brushing the coat can help your Pug make the transition. Alternative Ways to Keep a Pug Active 1 Dog parks can be a great place for a Pug to move around if he is otherwise reluctant at home. Interacting with other dogs can be motivation to run around and can be a good way to build social skills. You will want to be sure to visit a park that has separate areas for dogs based on size. Never let your Pug into an area with much larger dogs. Keep an eye on your Pug to assess breathing and separate him for breaks and re-hydration as needed. Keeping visits to the park to 1 hour is a good time limit. This is a low-impact exercise that is sometimes used in recovery therapy for dogs being treated for joint issues. This said, since the Pug has a barrel-shaped body, this breed is not the most proficient swimmer. Play it safe by having your Pug wear a canine life vest and staying by their side for close supervision. Be sure to rinse your dog off afterward to make sure chlorine and pool chemicals are washed from the skin and coat. Pugs can go on hikes and explore many places with their humans. If you search for hiking places to bring your Pug, the 3 aspects to focus on are distance, difficulty, and terrain. It's recommended to stick to trails no longer than 2 miles if you plan to loop around , those rated as easy or introductory, and with a terrain of solid, soft, or gently rolling hills avoiding those marked steep or rough. A Final Word Since the Pug breed is prone to weight gain and certain joint issues, exercise is an important part of care that will help keep your dog's body in good shape, maintain important muscle mass, keep the heart healthy, and burn calories. Pugs tend to mimic their owners; if their human is happy to sit around all day, a Pug may be perfectly content to snooze the day away. But, if their human sends out a vibe that engaging in exercise is fun, a Pug is often more than happy to join in. Keep your Pug active while being away of their limitations; it's an important step in extending your Pug's life span to be as long as possible. Did you find this to be helpful? Are you a PetPugDog Member? If not, join us today by becoming a free Membe r; this will allow you to receive newsletters that announce new articles and important information. Other articles you may like: Pug Paw Care - Great tips to keep the paws in good shape and remedies for common yet troublesome paw issues. Leaving a Pug Home Alone - It's not easy heading out to work, school, or even to run errands if you know your Pug has a hard time being alone. This article offers super-helpful tips for keeping a Pug occupied and happy while you're away. Top Pug Care Tips - A helpful round-up of the 15 things you can do to ensure your Pug puppy or dog for optimal safety, health, and happiness. Taking Care of a Pug's Teeth - Ignoring the teeth now can have terrible consequences later. Learn how to keep your Pug's teeth strong and healthy. Includes breed bite set and common issues. All rights reserved. Privacy Policy We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon.

If your poodle has recently become pregnant, there's likely one question plaguing your mind: What color will my poodle puppies be? Believe it or not, you can actually predict—and even control—the coat color of your soon-to-be poodle puppies! These tests are used to help dog breeders make more informed decisions and manage the traits of their litters. His online resource contains Hundreds of Excellent Dog Training Videos that will take you step-by-step through the process of developing a healthy, happy well-behaved dog. Understanding Dominant and Recessive Genes: The First Step in Predicting Poodle Puppy Colors Determining the color of your poodle's puppies isn't as easy as it may initially seem because of one factor: hidden genes. Here's the thing about poodle parents: alongside the colors they display as adults, they may also carry the genes of other colors that have been passed along their ancestral tree. Poodles —and dogs in general—can carry either dominant or recessive genes. In some cases, they can carry both. They're usually identified by capital letters; e. Recessive genes are overruled by dominant genes. If a puppy has inherited both dominant and recessive genes, he'll appear as the dominant color but will still carry the recessive color. Black is a dominant color, so if one of the poodle parents is black, there's a high chance their puppies will also be black—unless they're carrying the Rufus gene, in which case the puppies may appear red. But this is where it gets a bit tricky. If a black poodle carrying a brown gene is mated with another black poodle carrying a brown gene, there's a possibility that some of their puppies will be brown. This means that the pup has inherited both copies of the recessive gene, one from each parent. This makes the pup a recessive color. For a poodle to be born with a recessive color, he must have two copies of the recessive gene. For it to be born with a dominant color, he needs only one copy of the dominant gene. Solid-color coats are also dominant genes. When a solid-colored poodle gets together with a parti-color or piebald poodle, most of their pups will either be solid-colored or have residual white markings. Note that this rule doesn't apply if the solid-colored parent carries a parti-color gene. If a puppy inherits two copies of the piebald gene, he'll be born with a lot of white in his coat. How to Determine the Coat Color s of Poodle Puppies According to Parent Coat Scientists have yet to master the science of dog color genetics, so coat color predictions are just that: predictions. Still, researchers have determined some possibilities and likely outcomes depending on the poodle parents' colors after decades of testing. If either of the parents has a hidden gene, the color predictions can go in a completely different direction. It should be no different for your dog. But you need to help him. The Ultimate Guide to Dog Health is the answer. This handy guide will help you recognize the symptoms of the health problems above. Get the knowledge to stay ahead of these terrible issues that can rob your lovely dog from vigor and life. Still, genetic testing is the only way to test a puppy's coat color before it's born. They also determine possible genotypes. Here are some locus types found in dogs , as well as possible genotypes: E Locus L Locus determines the relationship between the Black dominant gene and the Yellow recessive gene. The Yellow gene represents a variety of light colors, like reds, creams, apricots, and whites. In the past, these dogs were culled as an attempt to remove them from the gene pool. This did not work, and as simple recessives they pop up often even in seemingly all solid bloodlines. Just one copy of dominant black KB will cause a dog to be black or brown. Seal and ghost tan are potential exceptions, but we're not getting into that just yet. The pattern produced will depend on what the dog has on the A locus. The 4 genotypes on the A locus in order of dominance are; agouti aw , sable ay , phantom at , and recessive black a. Agouti poodles are breathtakingly beautiful. Certain poodles are sometimes mistakenly referred to as "phantom sables". This isn't genetically possible, and oftentimes these dogs are in fact agouti, and may have characteristics of both a phantom and sable dog. A sable dog can be nearly solid cream, or appear agouti. Often, they will be mostly solid cream or apricot with black ears and tail, along with black hairs mixed in on the back. Sable puppies change significantly as they grow. The only thing you can guarantee is they won't be the same color as an adult as they are as a puppy, and that they will be gorgeous no matter the final pattern! It produces the pattern most commonly associated with breeds such as the doberman or rottweiler. Phantom poodles will usually have tan "eyebrows", cheeks, chest spots, lower legs, and under the tail. It is striking and beautiful! There are also modifiers that can cause what we call creeping tan or saddle tan which can cause the tan areas to grow and spread, much like what is seen in some German shepherds. This modifier is still being studied and isn't fully understood. It is unique as it doesn't produce a pattern, but actually causes the dog to be just black or brown. This is one reason color testing is important. A solid black dog could produce patterns very unexpectedly in a breeding program. Combinations Patterns can be produced on a dog at the same time. You can have a dog that is both parti and sable. The dog would have the white areas to the coat, and the colored areas would be sable. The same goes for brindle. That would cause the colored areas of the coat to be brindled. You can have a dog that is parti, phantom, and brindle. This would be a parti colored dog that also had tan points, and within those tan points there would be striping. There are many possibilities and combinations. It all depends on what the parent dogs both express and carry. Two such patterns are seal and ghost tan. Both of these patterns will express occasionally in dogs that are genetically dominant black. For some reason in these dogs the pattern from the A locus leaks through and expresses in a unique way. If a dog is sable or agouti on the A locus, this pattern will show up slightly. If they are phantom, you will be able to see faint tan markings. It does seem to be inheritable as some poodle breeders are breeding these dogs and getting consistent results. Each Poodle puppy receives one color gene from each parent. The coat color you see in your dog will be the result of the dominant gene. For a recessive coat color to be displayed, no dominant coat color gene should be present. Some genes also result in various markings and color patterns in purebred Poodles. What are the different colors of a Poodle? Black is the most common color for Poodles of all sizes, with other solid colors including blue, apricot, brown, cream, red, silver, silver beige, white, gray, and cafe au lait. Also, purebred Poodles can have multi-colored coats; while accepted by the breed standards , these are not recognized for the American Kennel Club AKC conformation show ring. Apricot Poodle Along with red, apricot is one of the newest color variations to be accepted in the breed. Apricot poodles are the result of a recessive gene. A real apricot Poodle will have a black nose and darker ears. Liver points are also accepted but not preferred. An apricot dog can produce a red, while some apricot Poodles are so light they can appear to be cream. While challenging to differentiate from cream-colored Poodles, apricots still have a slight red tint to the fur, giving the dog a more vibrant appearance. Apricots can also fade to cream with age. Black Poodle A black Poodle is the most common variant with this coloring caused by a dominant coat color gene. All blue Poodle puppies are born black and lighten as the dog gets older. The blue color results from a black Poodle carrying both a dominant and recessive version of the silvering gene. As a result, this is quite a rare color to find. Blue Poodles have dark brown eyes and black points. Although brown is a common Poodle color, it results from the dog carrying two recessive brown color genes. Brown Poodles can come in various shades, from light brown to deep chocolate; however, there should be no black coloring anywhere on the dog. All brown Poodles should have dark amber eyes and liver points. There should also not be any silvering genes in a true brown Poodle. The Cch gene causes brown Poodles to show up as cream, while these dogs can also have the apricot gene with a dominant and recessive version of the silvering gene. Lighter than apricot, many cream dogs can turn white. Gray Poodle Gray poodles are typically born a charcoal color, fading to a lighter gray as they age. That said, some Poodle puppies can be born a glorious medium-gray color, staying this color throughout their lifetime. Red Poodle Red only became an official poodle color around and today is one of the most sought after shades of Poodles, primarily due to their rarity. Red poodles can come in several shades, from light coral to deep, dark mahogany. The red gene is a recessive one that tends to appear in apricot lines due to the Rufus gene. True red Poodles will have black points, and while liver points are sometimes seen and accepted, they are not preferred. Silver Poodle Source: cookie. This is similar to the blue Poodle with the silvering gene present in an otherwise black dog; however, there should be two recessive genes in this instance. Many silver dogs may look black as puppies, but you would see the silver hair at the roots if you were to shave them. All silver Poodles should have dark brown eyes and black points. If you were to shave these dogs, you would see the silver coloring at the roots of the coat, as well as the cream undertones in the fur. Silver Beige dogs have either black or liver noses. White Poodle White Poodles are typically a pure white color, although some can be tinted with a light apricot or beige. Small black spots are sometimes also accepted on white Poodles; however, ticking should not occur on solid white dogs. Real white dogs have black points. The main difference between the color variations being that Cafe Au Lait dogs always have a liver nose and are slightly darker. Poodles were originally bred to be more than one color, with this feature being bred out of the dogs in favor of the solid coloring. However, nowadays, multi-colored Poodles are making a comeback. The brindle color looks like tiger stripes on their fur. Poodle purists say that although DNA tests prove brindle Poodles as purebred dogs, as a non-naturally occurring variant, it must have been introduced by a different breed at some point. This can occur with any coat color but is more common on brown dogs, giving the appearance of a burnt toast color. Sable is a dominant gene, but despite this, these dogs are hard to find. Sable Poodle puppies also normally only display this color for a very short time. Puppies will look very dark but start to fade by around six months, with the black tips present only on the ears as the dog matures. The term parti refers to dogs with a white base coat and patches or spots of another white color. The piebald gene causes this white coloring. This is similar to the patterns one might see on a Doberman Pinscher or Rottweiler. Tuxedo Poodles will have a white throat and chest, a white stomach, white legs and white under their tail, with a colored saddle on their back. Although typically occurring in white and another color, tuxedo markings can happen in any colored Poodle. Mismark Poodles do not have enough white on the coat to be called parti Poodles. Do Poodles change color as they age? Most Poodle puppies change color as they grow up. If they get to keep the same coat color, it is called holding. The clearing is usually uneven over the coat, ears, and thicker guard. A reputable breeder should know if their puppies will hold their color or if they will clear as they age. For instance, gray Poodles are born black, clearing to their color fully by about four years old. Also born black, blue Poodles and silver Poodles show their proper coloring when they are about a year or two old. True black Poodles, on the other hand, will not fade. Cafe Au Lait Poodles are born brown and change to a lighter shade around two years old. Silver beige Poodles are also born brown, with the lighter coloring appearing by six weeks on the feet and face, covering the full coat by two years old. True brown Poodles should not fade as they age. Apricots and creams also lighten as they age, with some even fading to white, while red Poodles can also fade to apricot. White Poodle dog Why do Poodles lose their color? Some Poodles can also carry the Progressive Graying or G locus. This dominant gene causes the coat color to dilute as they get older, with the graying even starting to come in from two or three months old. This change can be seen most on the belly, with darker spots sometimes appearing on the skin. Do Poodle colors affect behavior? A red Toy Poodle puppy While some people say that brown Poodles are very naughty or red Poodles very shy, none of these claims have been scientifically proven. Coat colors do not relate to temperaments, and this has to do more with the parent dogs and how the puppies are raised and trained. Do Poodle colors affect health? While skin color changes are common in the Poodle breed, this is more prevalent in lighter dogs. There is cause for concern if any dark spots are raised as this could indicate skin cancer. Always be wary of Poodles that have no coloring around their ears. No pigment in the ears can be a sign of deafness. An oddly spotted or mottled coat on dogs that make them appear merle can also be a sign of pigmentation issues, indicating deafness or eye disease. How about Poodle eye color? Most Poodles have dark brown eyes; however, blue or yellow eyes can occur with Poodles. Sometimes light eyes in Poodles are simply a sign of a genetic mutation; however, this can also indicate eye disease of blindness. If you choose to keep your dog in a longer clip, you will need to brush them daily to prevent tangles from forming. Which Poodle color will you choose? Now that you know a bit more about the various beautiful colors available for the Poodle breed, do you have a favorite? Will you opt for the common but no less attractive black, or will you hold out for that a picture-perfect red Poodle? Do you already have a Poodle of your own? Let us know what color they are in the comments below. Further reading: Poodle mixes In addition to coming in a range of colors, Poodles are often crossed with various other dog breeds to form some gorgeous Poodle mixes. Take a look at some of our favorites here:. The health issues that commonly afflict them are deafness and blindness. I will be discussing all of these in one of the succeeding sections. For Poodles, the usual colors are single-toned like apricot, black, and blue. You can learn more about these and seven other shades through the descriptions and samples below. They are actually dilute of red, so there are times that they almost appear similar. Some Poodles who possess this color may have a lighter shade of orange which is already bordering on cream. If their face is shaved, it should be almost as dark as their hair. Their coat should also never fade to gray, and they should not have any white hairs. Blue Poodle Photo from toodlesthebluespoo IG A blue Poodle does not actually have a blue coat but a dilute black tone similar to charcoal gray. All blue Poodles are born having a black coloration, and then they clear or lighten as they grow. Usually, this takes place within their first year, but some pet owners claim that they turned blue when the dog reached two years of age. Blue Poodles are often mistaken as black because their outer coat is dark-colored. You can distinguish them from black Poodles by looking at their roots which are lighter. Brown Poodle Photo from choco. True browns do not have any black points on their body and may appear reddish-brown when seen in sunlight. Some also confuse this coat for the cafe au lait and the silver beige, but a true cream Poodle has a black nose. Most cream Poodles also have black points, and this is completely acceptable. Gray Poodle Photo from mellowie. Some of them are born jet black and eventually clear, while others are already gray when they were born. Red Poodle Photo from ludo. They may appear almost similar to an apricot Poodle, or they may have a dark mahogany coat. Just like the blue pups, they are born dark-colored, but they lighten as they age. When they reach six weeks, their face and feet should already be silver. Note that this coloration may vary from a sparkling platinum to a pewter color. It is also expected that they have black points and deep brown eyes. Silver Beige Poodle Photo from ms. At six weeks, their face and feet should already be silvery. The majority of them are born with apricot or beige tinted ears, but this still adheres to the standard. Black points are allowed on their coat, but any tickings that make them appear dirty is not permissible. Here are the 18 colors that currently on non-standard standing: Black and Cream Poodle Photo from nicolelirak IG Black and cream Poodles have a dark coat with lowly saturated medium yellow markings. Black and Apricot Poodle Black and apricot Poodles have a black base coat and apricot markings. Black and Brown Poodle The black and brown Poodle combines two dark colors in their coat. Their base is black, while their markings are a deep chocolate shade. Black and Gray Poodle Photo from olivethetoyblackpoodle IG Black and gray Poodles possess a rich black coat with markings that are a lighter shade of blue. Some people mistake the markings for silver, but this color is entirely different. The base is jet black, while the markings are different red varieties including mahogany and chestnut. Black and Silver Poodle Photo from queenpearlharbor IG Black and silver Poodles can be distinguished from the black and gray through examining their markings. They should have a light gray tint on their chest, feet, and face contrary to the dark charcoal gray shade. Black and Tan Poodle Photo from ostrovgrez IG A black and tan Poodle has a black base coat and tan markings on some parts of their body made possible by the pigment called pheomelanin. The tan coloration is one of the many dilute varieties of the color red. Black and White Poodle Photo from diego. According to the AKC, this coat is often mistaken as parti-colored, but they are a separate coat variation. Blue and White Poodle Photo from yarrafay IG Instead of having the usual black coat, blue and white Poodles possess a dark gray base and white markings which are quite aesthetically pleasing. Brown and Apricot Poodle A brown and apricot Poodle has a brown base which is a bit reddish when viewed in the sun. There are visible apricot markings on their body which are medium-saturated orange in color. Brown and White Poodle Photo from aseasister IG Brown and white Poodles also have a brown base coat, but instead of apricot, their markings on their chest, feet, and face are plain white. Cafe au Lait Poodle Photo from amber. Most of them have liver points and amber eyes. Cream and White Poodle Photo from nomi. They are cream or lowly saturated yellow, while they also have whites in them. Gray and White Poodle Photo from congee. The markings found on their body are all white. Red and Apricot Poodle Since the red and apricot colors are almost the same, it is quite hard to identify if a Poodle is solid red or it has apricot markings. You should keep in mind that the red coat is usually dark, while the apricot markings are more orangey. Red and White Poodle Photo from lifetimewithdogs IG Red and white Poodles are just that, red-based dogs with white markings found on some areas of their body. The red coloration may vary so you may assume that your dog is tan and white or apricot and white. This is understandable, but remember that Poodles only have the red and white combination and not some other shades. The apricot coloration only serves as their markings. White and Silver Poodle Photo from sympleepoodles IG White and silver Poodles are predominantly white with silver or platinum markings that can be found on several areas of their body, including the face and chest. Some colors are either not allowed on the show ring or completely excluded by the AKC because they are associated with multiple diseases. This is considered a major fault by the AKC, but they still allow their registration. Silver beige White Apricot - This and red were two of the last colors recorded for this breed; so they are the newest and quite interesting. An apricot can produce a red. Some apricot Poodles are so light that they appear to be cream, however you will notice a red tint to the hair. A true apricot poodle will have some points or black spots on their skin. Liver points are acceptable but not preferred in the U. All blue Poodles are born black and then "clear" lighten as the pup grows. This often happens within the first year but this change can take place as late as 2 years in some cases. For this reason, many blue Poodles are registered as black. The outer coat of a blue poodle is usually as dark as that of a black, but hairs at the root is a mix of colors. The amount of each color depends on the age of the dog. In middle-aged dogs, medium brown predominates. True blue Poodles will have black points and dark brown eyes. Brown - A brown Poodle is a deep, dark color and in no way can be confused with Cafe Au lait which is much lighter. Pure brown Poodles must have liver points and dark amber eyes. Brown is created by the bb gene, as opposed to the BB gene of black Poodles, and therefore will have no black pigment anywhere on the body, including the eyes and nose. Cafe Au lait - This is a shiny light tan color and some confused this with silver beige. It is not uncommon for the pup to be born brown and 'clear' to this color. A Cafe Au lait should have liver points and dark amber eyes. Black - A true black Poodle is a deep ink black. The dog's coat will have zero blue or silver tinting and not have any white or silver guard hairs. The face when shaved will be deep black, as well. A true black will not "clear" or "fade". Blacks will have black points and dark brown eyes. See More: Black Poodles. Silver Beige - This is a diluted brown, therefore a true silver beige Poodle is born brown. By 6 weeks, silver beige will appear on the face and paws with a full coat change by the age of 2 years. The dog will have liver points and dark amber eyes. Red - This only became an official color in and now many breeders in Canada have come together to form the Apricot Red Poodle Club. A true red will have black points. Read about the fascinating history of reds here: Red Poodles. Silver - A true silver Poodle is born black and "clears" by the age of 2. However, you will know a true silver by the age of 6 weeks, when the face and paws "clear" and the rest of the coat will follow in suit over the next year or two. Silvers will have black points and dark brown eyes. This color is a diluted gray, caused by the silver allele V gene. White - Most white Poodles are a pure, snow white. However, some breeders will dub a white tinted with apricot or beige as being white. A bit of black spotting is acceptable on a white, however there should never be any ticking in the white. The ticking gene is a totally separate gene that makes the coat appear dirty. Gray - While a Poodle can be born gray and stay gray, it is also not uncommon for a black Poodle to turn gray at the age of years old. Cream - These Poodles will have black points; you'll know that a Poodle is cream and not Silver Beige or Cafe au Lait if his nose is black. It is the Cch gene which causes an otherwise brown Poodle to be cream. Color Changes When a Poodle puppy is a solid, one must understand that many variables can affect what will become the adult coat. When a pup keeps the same color coat, this is known as "holding". However, many Poodles 'clear'. To clear means when the coat fades or lightens to another color. A lightening of the coat does not necessarily occur evenly all over the coat, rather Poodle color will often hold more on the dog's ears and the thicker guard hairs. Cafe Au lait Poodles are born dark brown and change to cafe around the age of 2 yrs Blue Poodles are born black and change over by the age of 2 years Sliver Poodles are born black and change over by the age of 2 years Apricots are often born a dark shade that lightens by the age of 2 years Many owners can become confused as their Poodle takes on a completely different color as they grow. For example, a blue Poodle puppy could be misinterpreted as black, although a reputable breeder should be able to know the difference. If that puppy has parents with parti in the bloodline, as the coat clears during the first 2 years, other colors may appear and the once black looking puppy who was actually a blue parti becomes a parti with a wide array of possible colors. Fixing a Dull or Yellowing Coat It is common for a Poodle's coat to dull, become brassy or yellow as the dog matures. Sunlight, air pollution and constant bombardment of minuscule debris are at work here, in addition to the natural aging process cycling out a duller color than a Poodle once had. At all times, each hair strand is in 1 of the 3 phases: Growth, rest or release. Therefore, it is a gradual process.Owners may not notice a difference in the richness, depth and shine of the coat until the process has been going on for a while and enough hairs have grown in faded or dulled to make a drastic difference. The key to fixing and maintaining a beautiful color on a Poodle is to use a color enhancing shampoo. There are some great ones manufactured specifically for canines. In addition, while in general one does not want to use a human product on a puppy or dog, as long as the PH balance is correct, it most certainly can be used with excellent results. When a black, blue, or brown dog has the mutation in this gene, they gradually fade in color as they grow. Not all black, blue, or brown poodles have the mutation, but some do. You will begin to see the change in color starting at a months of age and it is usually complete by the time the dog is mature. In some dogs there may be small changes throughout the life of the dog. Skin Color Skin color can change as well. The most common reason for a Poodle to have a change of color on the skin is exposure to sunlight and this most commonly happens on the belly. It is not uncommon for a pink belly to have darker spots appear. An owner should be concerned if those darker spots are raised above the skin and should have the dog's veterinarian take a look at any raised, dark areas. In the monthly Poodle blog Topic of the Month , you'll find new, helpful articles on a regular basis. All rights reserved. We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon. Share Us. People want to know what color puppies they will get if they breed this color to that color. All you can do is make a guess. With some research and knowing the background of your lines, one can make a more educated guess, but once again its just a guess. I have spent a lot of time and effort to study pedigrees and colors but even I am still learning. Especially when it comes to the multi colors its all still a guess. Vet gen does have a DNA test that will supposedly tell you the color genes that your dog carries. I will warn people that you should never bank all your money on that test. I have known of quite a few people that have tested their dogs and gotten strange colors in their litters that were not even talked about in the test. I am also unsure if this test takes into account the multi colors. I am going to take this page and talk about what I have learned and what I have had personal experience with colors. First off what you personally are breeding for in color, is what you have to take into account. Just throwing 2 poodles together and hoping for the best is NOT good breeding practices. Once you have established that two dogs are proper breeding material and that they offset each others faults, then you have to take into account, color compatibility and what you are working towards in color. Most reputable breeders you will find will specialize in certain colors. Trying to work on too many colors at once can become frustrating and confusing, even though the temptation is great! Just throwing 2 colors together can seriously destroy the colors and their points pigment of the nose, lips, eye liner, and pads are considered the points. All other colors should have black or self colored points. This also comes into play when talking about Multicolors and mixes of the above colors. You can pretty much count on a Sable ALWAYS carrying the fading gene and that the puppy will not stay the color that it is when it is born. There may be a color hidden there that you did not know about and need to consider. Its a good way to tell the recessive color genes in your dog. This includes the parti colors. This is why many breeders think blues are a great basis for a breeding program, depending of course upon what colors you are breeding for. Mixing of these colors will cause incorrect pigment on the points since the brown shades have liver colored points and Red, Apricot, Cream, and White should all have jet black points. Breeding red or apricot to silver causes the color to fade even more than they already do as the silver and blue colors carries the fading gene. True I have bred blue to red before due to the fact that was what I had to work with at the time. But if you are truly working to deepen and darken reds and apricots and produce beautiful dogs that hold their color, you do not want to introduce any more of the fading gene into these already fading colors than you have to. These colors once again will introduce the fading gene into your browns that you are trying to keep dark. These colors will ad a yellowish tone to your whites. However, there are some breeders out there that do breed for creams and off whites by using these color combinations. Other than the absolute DO NOT's listed above, how you combine colors totally depends upon what your end goal color is in your breeding program. When using a black every few generations in a red breeding program you will hopefully help to keep dark points on the puppies and also to darken their color. HOWEVER, be very careful what colors are in the background of said black that you do not inadvertently introduce more of the fading gene. Many people consider a color bred red to have apricot in the background. This is because apricot is a dilute of red so still in the same color family. HOWEVER, do not forget that this apricot causes more fading gene to be present in your reds, so the fewer apricots used the better to keep the color. Breeding true blacks to a brown is a great way to help reduce the fading that we see in most browns. HOWEVER, once again be very careful what colors are in the background of said black that you do not inadvertently introduce more of the fading gene. Remember white is already a fading color so breeding it to another fading color will not hurt the color. You really do have to be careful when breeding whites as it is easy to loose the pigment in the points. Putting a Silver, Blue, or Black in the background will help to keep these points nice and dark. Your best chances exist when one parent being bred to these colors is a silver. I would stay away from using whites, as I have said above, or you will have to worry about pigment on resulting white offspring. When it comes to color and pattern breeding in the parti colors and by parti I mean the old definition of more than one color , it is VERY difficult to say what you are going to get. This is probably due to breeders here in the US focusing on the solid colors for so long and looking down upon the parti colors as something that is undesirable. NOTE: If you are breeding for a specific color pattern it is recommended to breed like pattern to like pattern for best results. It is very hard to say though how heavy of markings you will get in a breeding as of yet. I have had very heavily marked piebalds that have been bred together and have produced piebalds will very little spotting at all. Since each and every piebald has a unique pattern and no two are alike its very hard to guess at how the genes will come together. You also have the new trend of people trying to produce heavier marked piebalds. These piebalds are know as true Tuxedos a dog that has white in a bib around the neck that may or may not go all the way around the neck, totally white on the belly and up into the chest, white on the legs that may extend all the way up to the elbow and or knees, may or may not have white markings on the face or head, and with the rest of the dog being predominately the darker color. There are many breeder out there that are incorrectly calling their abstract mismarked poodles a tuxedo. These puppies are usually produced from solid dogs or a solid bred to a piebald and not from two piebalds bred together. They are heavier on the dark color than the white but still are considered to be a piebald and are produced by piebalds. Once again your best chance of getting a tuxedo is to breed to a tuxedo. However you will also get regular piebalds in the litter. Since these tuxedo piebalds are just a heavily marked version of a piebald, the exact formula of breeding to get these markings is still being worked on. It all depends upon what the background of that phantom dog is and if that dog will carry the piebald gene. If the phantom carries the piebald gene I have found that the phantom gene is recessive to that of the piebald gene. If the phantom does NOT carry for piebald, then usually what you will get is a mixture of heavily abstract mismarked and even solid colored puppies. Every once in a while you will get a phantom patterned puppy but as I said it seems to be recessive so that would mean that the piebald would carry the gene for phantom. Puppies produced from such breedings are usually referred to as parti factored. Meaning that they carry the gene for parti. However this is still debated among parti people. Genetically they should carry for parti regardless, however when some of these parti factored are bred to a piebald they will not produce piebald puppies. It all will depend upon how these recessive gene line up in the produced puppies. Also remember that you can breed a pair together one time and get totally different results the next time they are bred together. Some colors seem to be more conducive to producing piebalds when bred to solid colored dogs such as white and silvers. It is still unsure as to why these solid colors seem to produce piebalds more than others but is speculated to be because they are recessive colors and not dominate to the piebald color. I personally have noticed that blues will tend to produce piebalds as well as other parti colors when bred to a parti patterned dog. Once again I believe this is because blues carry the gene for all colors. Once again as with the piebald puppies it may or may not come through in your breeding. It depends upon how the recessive genes line up. Also as with the piebalds there are some colors that are more conducive to producing phantom when bred to a solid than other colors. There seems to be a link between the phantoms and the red poodles. It is unsure what the correlation is yet but there is a lot of speculation. I have also noticed that whites and silvers will allow the phantom gene to come through. Also surprisingly I have known of quite a few solid blacks that will throw phantoms that have not had phantoms in their background that we know of. Many of these solid blacks have had a lot of red in the background, which leads us back to the correlation between reds and phantoms. If you look at the dogs that were used to create the poodle, such as the Portuguese water dog, you will see where these abstract markings come from. Abstract markings are called mismarks by many of the older breeders. I find that the term abstract used by the UKC is a lot more pleasing to most people. Contrary to the belief of the old time solid breeders this is not a flaw but something that is in the poodle genes from the beginning as I explained above. These dogs will usually have white on the chest, some white on the feet or toes and may or may not have white markings on the face or head. In the old days all the parti patterns were lumped into the mismark category, however today we know that the abstract gene and the genes for the other parti patterns are separate genes. Since most dogs carry for the abstract, you can get abstracts in any litter, whether its solid bred to solid or solid bred to another pattern. On the other hand I have bred to poodle that were abstracts together and gotten some of my most beautiful solid colored puppies. You do have to be careful as these solids will then carry this gene recessively and if you are working to produce only solid colored puppies you will have to breed accordingly. It is unsure as to where that particular gene originated but I believe this gene too comes from the dogs used to create the poodle breed. I have found that most brindles are produced from a blue parent. Once again this would go to show that blue carries for everything. Brindle bred to brindle will produce almost nothing but brindle as this gene seems to be quite dominate. Brindle bred to a solid color will usually produce a litter with mostly brindles and a few solids. These solids produced WILL carry and produce brindles. The brindle pattern can be produced in a variety of colors. SABLES Sables have also been around since the beginning in poodles and in my opinion is a difficult color to reproduce. A sable bred to a sable is of course your best bet to produce sable but it does not always result in sables. I have seen two sables bred together and the result was nothing but solid colored puppies with no markings what so ever. I have also noticed that many sables will come from a blue parent just as with the brindle pattern. I have also seen sables produced by solid silvers and whites. It is difficult to try and tell someone how to breed for sable when not much is known about the sable gene. I also do not know of a lot of breeders out there breeding just for sable. Like piebald markings on the body and phantom markings on the face, or a brindle with abstract markings, or a piebald with brindle or sable being the spotting color. These are the most difficult to determine where they came from. Its all in how these usually recessive genes line up. Sometimes they appear out of seemingly thin air. Until more is know about how the parti genes combine, and more test breedings are done to try and produce more multi patterns, its almost impossible to tell someone what to breed together other than the obvious combinations that may or may not produce the desired effect to produce a multi patterned parti. Just for an example, many people think that breeding a piebald to a phantom will produce a dog with piebald markings on the body but phantom markings on the face. Where this may have been the way some have been produced in the past, it will usually not result in a multi patterned dog. Article written by Keisha C. It just wastes my time and yours. I do not have any puppies or adults for sale. All articles on this site unless otherwise states are written by me, Keisha of Arpeggio Poodles. Articles by other people have been given their due credit. I am sorry I have to post this but I am finding my articles being stolen and being placed on other peoples sites. All photos are sole property of Arpeggio Poodles unless otherwise noted. Reproduction of photos without express written permission is prohibited! All pictures and graphics unless otherwise stated are of my own design. Please do not take them. Most of the information on my site is from my own views, opinions, or research that I have done. Where appropriate I have sited my sources and links to their sites. Do not take my opinions as that of a licensed vet. Any person that relies solely on my information does so at their own risk. Thanks for all the support! We have reached so many visits that our counter that only goes to 1,,, has started over for the 6th time now. Thanks everyone for making this site such a success! This site is dedicated to my Mother and Father. Bless you both. I know you are happy once again being reunited. Thank you for being my friends, my teachers, my heros and my parents. I miss you both greatly. Your loving daughter. Poodle Colors March 18, Poodles come in all shapes, sizes, and colors, to the point that the terminology can become quite bewildering. In this article, we shed some light, rather than hair, on the rainbow world of Poodle colors, exploring the most common coat hues and patterns before delving deeper into the weird yet wonderful world of ticked and parti Poodles. Table of Contents 12 Common Solid Colors of the Poodle Most Poodles, regardless of size, come in solid colors, some of which are more common than others. Although black Poodles are often overlooked in favor of lighter-colored puppies or rescues, they are no more aggressive or less intelligent than any other color Poodle. There is one slight health discrepancy, however, in that studies have found that black and other dark-colored Poodles are more susceptible to squamous cell carcinoma of the digit SCDD than other lighter-colored dogs. Due to their poor visibility at night, these dogs should always wear an LED collar when getting walked in the dark. Some may take a year to develop the blue tinge to their coats, while others hang onto the vestiges of their puppyhood black for 24 months. A quick examination of their paws may also reveal some silver or white hairs between the pads. As a blue Poodle puppy ages, so its color clears, becoming almost gun-metal grey. Some shading is acceptable in blue Poodles, but to be true to the breed standard, they should, like the black Poodle, have black noses, dark eyes, and black toenails. Silver Another diluted version of the black Poodle, like the blues, silvers are born black but will start to clear much earlier. By the time they reach six weeks, silver hues will be apparent around the face and paws, with the rest of the coat following suit over the next year or so. Silver is recessive color, making it more difficult to breed for, and silver puppies are only really guaranteed if both parents are also silver Poodles. This process is caused by the Progressive Graying gene which is found in some black, blue, and brown Poodles. Although some Poodles are born gray and remain that way throughout their lives, others will start to change color at around two or three months of age, gradually fading as they mature. Regardless of how the gray coat is produced this color is recognized by the AKC. Like the black, blue, and silver Poodles, gray dogs should also have black noses and nails and dark-colored eyes. Cream Cream is one of several off-white colorations found in all sizes of Poodle, and distinguishing one from another can be challenging. A cream Poodle is fairly easy to identify as it is one of the few light-colored Poodles that have black rather than liver-colored noses. Establishing whether a Poodle is white or cream is more difficult as both have black points and a pale cream, in certain lights, may appear white. Experts will no doubt dismiss this confusion as pure ignorance as the two are very different. While white indicates the complete absence of color, the cream is a very diluted brown, not far from apricot. Indeed, many cream-colored Poodles are born light or even medium brown and then clear as they mature. White White is one of the most popular and most common colors for Poodles. Despite being white, a white Poodle belongs to the black hair type and therefore has a black nose, nails, and eye-rims, as well as dark-colored eyes, giving it a striking appearance. In the past, a white Poodle with pink toenails or a patch of pink skin would still have succeeded in the show ring but, these days, the AKC insists on white Poodles with black extremities only. This color needs to be washed with a special shampoo for Poodles often to stay bright and clean. Both the Toy and the Miniature Poodle carry this trait, however, and it does appear to affect those with white pigmentation more than other colors. Brown Once lumped together with Red Poodles, brown Poodles should ideally be the color of dark mahogany or a rich walnut brown, as opposed to chestnut. Nevertheless, brown Poodles boast more color variations and a wider range of hues than almost any of the other colors. Most brown Poodles are born dark and then fade as they mature, producing stunning shades of cinnamon brown and coffee. One of the biggest problems facing the brown Poodle is its tendency to have very pale yellow, almost green eyes. This is an undesirable trait in the show ring but difficult to eliminate in breeding. The most sought-after brown Poodles have amber-colored eyes, a liver nose, and dark toenails, as per the breed standard. Rufus is a recessive allele, which is perhaps why red Poodles are so rare. Red Poodles are particularly prone to color change, with some fading as they age and others darkening. Apricot Like red, apricot is a relatively new color for Poodles, having only been accepted into the breed standard comparatively recently. The first apricot-colored Standard Poodle was born in but categorized as liver at the time. Since then, apricot Poodles have won a variety of prestigious awards, and their popularity has continued. Last year, world-famous Lionel Messi welcomed an apricot Toy Poodle named Abu into his family, adding a splash of color and cuteness to the Messi tribe. Although Poodles of this color may look similar to red ones, the cafe au lait hue is closer to silver than red. Silver Beige Unlike cafe au lait, silver beige is a diluted shade of brown, and most silver beige Poodles are born brown, clearing around their face and paws within the first six weeks of life. Silver beige is much more popular than cafe au lait, but the two are frequently confused. While cafe au lait puppies are usually born that color, silver beige Poodles are born brown and subsequently fade to silver beige. Parti Poodles Parti Poodles have large amounts of white on their body. This can be mixed with any of the regular colors: red, black, brown etc. These dogs are highly sought-after. You will probably have to look for a bit in order to find the Parti Poodle of your dreams! This is produced by a specific gene and can even be seen in pure white Poodles that, if they have the ticking gene, will appear dirty. More of a marking than a color in its own right, it can be difficult to spot the spots on a Poodle puppy. More commonly found on parti Poodles than solid colors, ticking becomes increasingly obvious as the puppy matures. While the United Kennel Club sees ticking as an acceptable trait in a Poodle, the AKC disqualifies such dogs from conformation classes, as it does parti Poodles. Some Poodle owners are convinced that certain colored dogs are cleverer than others. The idea behind this theory is that black and white Poodles were the original breed standard colors and have therefore been bred for temperament and intelligence, rather than color. You may indeed have a particularly intelligent white Poodle at some stage in your life, but you could equally have an Einstein-style Tuxedo Poodle. At the end of the day, Poodles are as varied as humans, and some are blessed with superior intelligence just as others are endowed with an especially friendly temperament. What is the Most Popular Poodle Color? Whites are common and much-loved for their regal appearance, while the black is easier to keep to clean, making it popular among more practical Poodle owners. Are Parti Poodles More Expensive? Do Poodles Have a Favorite Person? While most dog breeds adore whoever feeds them, Poodles are a little more particular, selecting their favorite human based on their personality, rather than their ability to provide care and sustenance. The Bottom Line The world of Poodles is full of color and variety. While traditionalists may prefer to stick with the standard breed colors, those drawn to the exotic may find the parti Poodles more attractive. An ancient breed dating back to the 15th or possibly even 14th century, it seems unlikely the Poodle will ever lose its popularity. She spends all her waking hours with her Australian Cattle Dog, Koala, either walking, horse-riding, running, or just hanging out. Originally from the UK, Nicky been living with dogs for over 40 years and is a passionate dog-owner. With a Masters Degree from the University of London under her belt, Nicky has had a diverse career, training and riding horses, running safari lodges, and hosting volunteers. Unleash the real potential of your companion! 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