bringing home a golden retriever puppy

Welcome to the UK Boxer Breed Council website, a site aimed at everyone involved in the world of the boxer. The Breed Council is made up of representatives from each of the breed clubs who are licensed to hold shows under Kennel Club rules. Boxer clubs outside the jurisdiction of the Kennel Club and Boxer Training Clubs may become associated members with full membership privileges other than voting rights. The objectives of the Breed Council are to maintain the Boxer breed in accordance with the breed standard approved by the Kennel Club. To co-ordinate all aspects and activities of the Boxer breed clubs in the United Kingdom for the improvement and protection of the breed, combing this with education for those who are interested in the breed. The A1 list indicates persons whom the council would support and who have been previously approved by the Kennel Club to award Challenge Certificates. These lists are compiled and reviewed continually throughout the year. The Breed Council holds the health of the breed as a primary importance and this was reflected in the reformation of a health sub-committee, all matters relating to Boxer health can be found on the health pages contained within this site. Please feel free to browse the site and check back regularly for any updates. Any items to be included on the agenda have to be submitted by a Boxer Club, not individual persons. Therefore, if you wish any item to be included for discussion you must submit it to the Boxer Club of which you are a member for consideration. The agendas for forthcoming meetings, and also the minutes of meetings, are circulated to Club delegates and secretaries by the Boxer Breed Council secretary. Breeder Referral Among companion animals, boxers are unmatched in their devotion, loyalty and friendship to humankind. Anyone who has ever loved a boxer can attest to its hundred-fold return. The excitement your boxer shows when you come home, the wagging tail at the sound of the leash being taken from its hook, the delight in the tossing of a tennis ball, and the head nestled in your lap-those are only some of the rewards of being a boxer owner. Owning a boxer is not just a privilege, it's a responsibility. These animals depend on us for, at minimum, food and shelter, and deserve much more. If you are considering taking a boxer into your life, you need to think seriously about the commitment that boxer ownership entails. If you already have a boxer, you need to consider if you are fulfilling all your obligations as its owner. The ABC does not recommend, guarantee, endorse, nor rate breeders, their kennels, or their stock. We also do not examine individual dogs. Buyers beware in all instances. For more information on puppies available in your area, contact our Breeder Referral Chairman: Fran Illuzzi Email: illuzzifran gmail. Find a Responsible Breeder To find a responsible breeder, go to a dog show or visit the breed's Parent Club for additional resources and contact information. Don't be put off if a breeder isn't immediately responsive. Hobby breeders often have full-time jobs and they don't always have available puppies. Be selective. Find a breeder who is knowledgeable and make sure you're comfortable with them. Visit the breeder's home or kennel and ask to see at least one of the puppy's parents. Get an idea of what the future holds for your dog in terms of temperament and appearance. Observe the premises. Dogs and puppies should be clean, well fed, lively and friendly. Pay attention to how the dogs and puppies interact with their breeder. Does the breeder appear to genuinely care for the puppies and their adult dogs? Both dogs and puppies should not shy away from the breeder and should be outgoing with strangers. Find out about the health of your puppy and its parents. Breeders should be honest about the breed's strengths and weaknesses and knowledgeable about the genetic diseases that can affect their breed - including what's being done to avoid them. Establish a good rapport with the breeder. You should be encouraged to call the breeder if your dog has a crisis at any stage of its life. Don't expect to bring home the puppy until its eight to 12 weeks of age. Puppies need ample time to mature and socialize with its mother and littermates. Breeders should be willing to answer any questions you have and should ask many of you as well. Breeders will want to make sure their puppies are going to good homes, with people who know what to expect and have made all the necessary preparations. Don't leave the premises without the appropriate documentation of the dog's pedigree, a. You'll need to send in this application form to register your dog with the AKC.

The PetSafe is an almost hybrid between a collar and a harness. There are also four adjustment points on the harness for a better fit. Possibly another option if you have had no luck with other harness types or you have sought expert advice on handling and controlling your dog. Dog Collar or Harness for a Boxer? Like the Bulldog and Pug , Boxers are a brachycephalic breed — meaning they have short noses which can restrict their airways and cause breathing problems. Although a collar works well on well-behaved dogs and those trained to walk on their lead, Boxers who have a tendency to pull on the lead may not have a great time on a collar. In addition to breathing considerations, dogs which are strong and have a tendency to pull on the lead are at risk of neck and throat injury. For walking and outdoor activity, a harness is often a great way not only to avoid injury to your dog but to help with training to reduce or extinguish pulling behaviour. Types of Dog Harness Not all harnesses for dogs are made equal. There is a range of different types and styles available — and depending on whether they are a puppy, adult or senior — may be helpful to different situations. Vest Harness Often made of breathable lightweight materials like nylon and mesh — these walking harnesses are designed for general wear and comfort. Not designed as a no-pull harness — these are better suited to Boxers who behave on their lead, Puppies who are getting used to harnesses and elderly dogs who may need assistance and where collars are unsuitable. Front and Back Clip Harnesses These are the more common types of harnesses — particularly for dogs who pull and who need training. A back clip harness is a harness that has its leash attachment at the back top. A front-clip dog harness generally has an additional leash point at the front chest. One end is attached to the back — the other attached to the front. This gives heightened control of your dog. Tightening and Control Harnesses These harnesses tighten when your dog pulls. Not only can they hurt your dog by pinching them or causing discomfort — they can result in an increase in pulling behaviour as they attempt to escape the stimulus. These are best used under the guidance of professional dog trainers. Leather Dog Harnesses Leather harnesses can be popular with several breeds, including Boxers. It is important to find a harness that not only works for their behaviour and temperament but for their personality. You may get lucky the first time, but be aware that like collars, harnesses are not natural to a dog. They may resist them at first — or perhaps with some completely. Firstly, be patient — it may just take some time and you may need to coax your Boxer into wearing it. Dogs which pull on a collar can put a lot of pressure on the neck. This can lead not only to discomfort but to gradual damage, throat problems and potentially tracheal collapse Many people choose a harness because of pulling behaviour, however, this is not the only reason. Even if your dog is well behaved on a lead, a harness is still a great choice for walking. How To Measure your Boxer for a Harness It is important to find the right dog harness for your Boxer and one that will fit snugly. If the harness is too loose it could sag or your Boxer could escape from it. Boxers are also prone to hip dysplasia so it is important to offer them the support they need you may also want to check out support and rehabilitation harnesses if your Boxer suffers from this and other mobility problems. For this article, we have based the harnesses around the medium mark on the sizing charts. If you find your Boxer measures between two different harness sizes e. Firstly, measure the widest part of the chest with a tape measure. This is usually a few inches, or roughly four fingers, distance from behind your Boxers front legs. Next, add a few inches to your total. This gives your dog a little bit of flexibility and will also allow for a small amount of weight gain. Secondly, you should measure the circumference of your Boxers neck if required. Finally, again if necessary, weigh your dog. We do this every time we visit the vet and keep a note of it. In this article, we will be taking a look at a number of what we feel are the best no pull dog harness for boxers currently available on the market right now. With boxers being a boisterous breed we have seen a number of boxer owners reaching out for assistance on no pull harnesses for their dogs. We have researched the suitable harnesses on the market and settled on six that we feel are perfect for our readers. All of these harnesses have an excellent reputation within the dog-owning community as well as current boxer dog owners using them as their go-to no pull harness. It is a very popular no pull harness with owners of multiple breeds using it as their daily walking harness. You can click here to read some independent reviews of the harness left by other boxer dog owners or you can read reviews from owners of other breeds here. The Kurgo Tru-Fit No Pull Dog Harness is currently only available in black but it can be picked up in five sizes to ensure you get a comfortable fit for your boxer. When choosing a size we recommend that you follow the sizing guide in the image below to ensure that you are able to get your dog a comfy fit. The Kurgo Tru-Fit No Pull Dog Harness has five key adjustment points in it to allow you to adjust it as required to fit your boxers unique shape. The harness also has multiple quick release buckles to allow you to quickly and easily get your dog in or out of the harness when required. The halt ring on the chest plate of the harness can be used to train your dog not to pull when in its harness with minimal effort. Simply put your dog in the harness and attach the leash then go for a walk, as your boxer pulls away from you, tension is applied to the halt ring turning your dog around to face you rather than being able to pull directly away. The video below offers a demonstration of this no pull system. Multiple reports have commented on how effective the halt ring system has been for them and that it was able to quickly stop their boxer from pulling while walking. Here is an independent report from the owner of a pound Rottweiler who says pulling was almost impossible for their dog with this harness on while out on their walks. Although not the primary purpose of this particular article, we would also like to mention that the Kurgo Tru-Fit No Pull Dog Harness comes with a ten-inch seat belt loop. This can help to secure your boxer in your vehicle to prevent distracted driving. Again, it is a harness that has a large number of dog owners of all breeds currently using it as their go to harness solution. There are a large number of third-party reviews of the product online and you can click here to read some that have been left by other boxer dog owners or click here to read reviews left by owners of other dog breeds. The Rabbitgoo No Pull Dog Harness is currently available in three different color styles and five different sizes. The image below shows the sizing guide for the harness to help you get the best fit possible for your boxer. Simply attach your leash to that ring rather than the ring on the back of the harness to discourage pulling while walking in your boxer. The easy on and easy off design of the harness means that you are able to get your boxer in and out of it within seconds. There is also a handle on the back of the harness to allow you to quickly get a firm hold of your dog while out walking in emergency situations. There are a good number of reviews of the harness online and you can read some that have been left by other third-party boxer dog owners by clicking here. It is currently available in five different sizes so we recommend that you use the sizing guide in the image below before ordering. It is also available in nine different colors allowing you to choose a color that matches your own personal style. Again, it is a very popular dog harness that has no pull technology letting you and your boxer go for walks without the problem of your dog pulling away from you. It had a very large number of dog owners who use it as their go-to harness and you can click here to read some independent reviews of the harness left by other boxer owners or click here for owners of other breeds. The Big Dog No Pull Harness is currently available in seven different colors and three different sizes. The size guide for the harness is shown in the image below to ensure that you get the best fit possible for your boxer. Just be sure to measure your dog across the widest part of its rib cage. Unlike some of the other harnesses on this list, the Big Dog No Pull Harness requires deliberate training to stop your dog from pulling away. As explained by this report, all you have to do is grab the handle on the back of the harness when your boxer tries to pull away and correct its behavior. In addition, the handle offers an excellent way to quickly and easily get a secure hold of your boxer in an emergency. This will affect everything from how comfortable he is eating, to bacteria in the bowl and also has a direct impact on the risk of developing bloat an issue with this breed. Size, height, material and overall design all matter. Read more about the best food and water bowls for Boxers Bed or Mat Boxers love to take over the sofa, make claim to their human's favorite chair or stretch out on the floor. We recommend a 6 food leash or retractable for house training Boxer puppies. You'll want to keep him close to lead him to and keep him in the exact designated area and to have him close to give immediate praise and reward. A short leash is also best when training your Boxer to heel, since his proper positioning is to your left and right by your side. A longer leash, or one that can extend out, is great for allowing your Boxer to run and have some freedom, when deemed safe. In regard to a collar or harness, this breed typically has strong enough neck and shoulder muscles to do okay with a collar. However, if your Boxer tends to launch himself forward or off to the side quite often when on leash, play it safe and get him a harness. This will remove the issue of pressure being applied straight to the neck and instead it will be displaced on a Boxer's stronger shoulders, chest and back. An ID tag is a must. Though your Boxer can tend to stay close and you're on-point in regard to not letting him off leash, it's just not worth the risk. Choose a stainless steel tag that is weather resistant and will be durable enough that the engraving does not wear down. It's suggested to put more than one type of contact info for someone to return your Boxer cell, address, email. The Right Toys It's best to think of toys as tool. Which ones are going to perform to meet the needs of your Boxer puppy or dog? All toys should serve a specific function. If not, you mind as well toss them or your Boxer may already have figuratively done that by ignoring them. And most toys cannot meet all of a dog's needs at one time though some can have a duel purpose. The main reasons for certain toys include: Teething, chewing urges, entertainment to stay busy especially when home alone , and owner interaction. Read more about choosing the best toys for a Boxer Brushes Boxers have short, dense coats that will shed mostly into themselves, rather than leave a mess on the floor. This is great for your house, but not so much in terms of health for the coat itself. Though Boxers can enter shedding seasons depending on where you live , most still or entirely shed minor to moderate amounts throughout the year. You will want to routinely brush the coat from head to tail at least once per week. During times of heavier shed, use a tool specifically to pull out dead hairs. Brushing has several benefits: It pulls out hairs that have shed but fallen back. If these are left, they can block natural air flow. It distributes natural body oils It removes fine dirt and debris Is healthy for the hair follicles, leading to better re-growth fur is in a constant renewal cycle The best brushes for Boxer dogs: For the type of coat that a Boxer has, the best brush will be a quality bristle brush. Be sure that it has a sturdy handle, is sized well for your hand, and has proper tension it won't do much good if it simply glides over the surface. For times of shedding, when you need to pull out any dead hairs, use a grooming tool that reaches deep down, latches onto hairs and brings them up and out. Dental Care Items Of all the supplies you might possibly get for your Boxer puppy or dog, do not overlook dental care items. What can happen: Plaque builds up on a dog's teeth every second of the day and chewing on treats and toys even great dental treats just doesn't get it all off. Within 3 days, plaque starts to harden into tartar. It encases the teeth and travels under the gum line. It eats away at the enamel of the teeth, causing decay and rot. Infection can travel up into the sinuses or even throughout the body, causing sepsis. Decay causes teeth to loosen and eventually fall out. And of course, this all happens comes at the cost of quite a bit of pain for a dog. The American Veterinary Dental College reports that periodontal disease is the most common preventable clinical condition in both cats and dogs. Without proper care, most dogs have some level of periodontal disease by the age of 3 years old; at this stage, there are not enough signs of unknowing owners to take steps other than bad breath yet can lead to damage to internal organs. What to do: Take measure to ensure excellent oral hygiene with your Boxer dog. Brush your Boxer's teeth with a quality toothbrush. Use an appropriately sized, 3 sided brush. Use an effective toothpaste human paste is toxic, look for a canine product that tastes good and works well to remove plaque. Don't be surprised when a good paste does not foam; they are not meant to since dogs are supposed to swallow the product. Offer one effective dental treat each day. We highly recommend Greenies; these are simply the best and are an accepted product of the Veterinary Oral Health Council. Think about using a water supplement that works to kill bacteria and help prevent plaque. Be sure that it does not contain a drying agent and tasteless ones work best. Bathing, Coat Supplies Everything that you use on the coat shampoo, conditioner, spray will either be beneficial to a Boxer or detrimental. You will want to have a really good shampoo that not only cleans great, but does so with the right pH balance to avoid over-drying and without harsh chemicals. The conditioner that you use needs to coat hairs without being so oily that residue remains which can clog skin pores. The coat should be protected with a spritz. A leave-in spray offers some great benefits: It smells great, protects the coat from static, contact friction and outdoor elements particularly the sun. Though, even with dogs that are outside much of the day and are super active, you can't depend on this to keep the nails short enough. If you want to do this at home, we recommend an electronic filer. It's much easier than clipping. Nose - A dog's nose is naturally pretty vulnerable to all of the elements it encounters. From arid air to cold winds to sun exposure. A big mistake is to only put something on the nose once it starts to look really dry or start peeling, because while a good product can indeed heal a chapped or cracked nose, it's better to be ahead of the game and prevent it in the first place. Every month or so, apply a quality nose butter and then keep it on hand for when you need to apply it more often, which is typically in the dead of winter and in during long, hot summers. Paws - You don't want to baby the paws, because they toughen up as a puppy and then dog walks on a variety of surfaces. However, if they become damaged this puts you back several steps and can even morph into serious issues. This is why a quality paw wax should be part of the supplies you have for your Boxer, it's a vital part of year-round paw care. Look for a good wax that allows the paws to breath and is absorbed quickly in just a couple of minutes. Car Restraint or Seat If you'd buckle up your child, there should be no hesitation to buckle up your Boxer. To not do this is to risk his safety. There are over 16, car accidents per day in the U. No matter how good of a driver you are, you just can't guarantee that someone won't crash into you or that road or weather conditions won't cause something to happen. So, of all the possible supplies that you might get for your Boxer, this one can literally save lives. There are some great options that are easy to use, can actually help with motion sickness and are comfortable for a Boxer puppy or larger, older adult dog. Read more about finding the best car seat or belt for a Boxer dog. Basic First Aid Supplies There are a few basic essentials that every owner should have on hand in the case of injury or emergency. If you've ever looked into this, you may have found some pretty extensive lists; and that's a shame because you don't need half of those things. Chances are, you'll never find yourself searching through your supplies as you try to set broken bones; things like this should be saved for the animal hospital. However, dogs do commonly swallow things that they should not according to the Pet Poison Hotline of the ten top breeds that they received calls about, the Boxer places at 8. You should always be prepared for this. Also, there can be insect bites, something in the eye and small scraps and cuts. Read more about which first aid items you should have for a Boxer dog Outer Gear - Optional, Based on Needs Many Boxers do just fine without any sort of additional layers via jackets or coats. However, some don't. Puppies, senior dogs, or those that are ill or recovering may have an intolerance to the cold. Additionally, just about any otherwise healthy dog can need some help during super harsh weather. If your Boxer is having a hard time in the winter and this is interfering with meeting exercise requirements or is getting in the way of house training, you may want to check into this. If so, read more about clothing for Boxer dogs. Supplements - Optional, Based on Needs If you are feeding your Boxer a high quality food, vitamins and minerals are already added to the mix. However, if you are offering a mainly home cooked diet which is great , you have to be the one to add in a complete vitamin and mineral supplement. Head collars are great for powerful pulling dogs or overly rambunctious dogs like the Boxer! Types of Head Collars Head collars come in a few varieties, depending on the brand. There are additional smaller straps located underneath the muzzle that are attached to an O-ring. This is where the leash clips too. The cool thing about this collar is it has a clip where you can adjust the tightness around the muzzle. This collar also has adjustments around the ears to fit a wide range of dogs. This type of dog collar was always more practical for both my Boxers. However, there are some differences that make this collar stand out, such as a pad on the nose strap to add comfort for the dog. Overall, this was my number one choice in terms of head collars for Boxers because of the minimal straps and muzzle adjustments along with the nose pad. As you know, Boxers are short-muzzled with short slick hair. The one strap around the muzzle is versatile for any sized muzzle and the padded strap prevents any chafing or irritation on their noses. They come in all different colors and sizes, and are available at your local pet store or even Walmart. Cons With anything, there are cons to using a dog head collar. Nothing is perfect. You can usually overcome these obstacles by making a positive association with wearing the head collar. Choose a head collar that best fits your Boxer. This way you have somewhere to start. All Boxer owners know how talented their Boxers are with their paws. This will prevent ill fitting collars and possibly negative associations to the collar. For additional information on the collars mentioned above, check out the links below. In Conclusion Buying the best harness for boxer dogs is not always easy to do since it depends on the activity the dog will be doing. Also, each dog is different and so some dogs might require specific styles of harnesses. A design with a few adjustments, including leather or strong straps, is perfect for that. If you have been looking for some good harness for boxer dog, then this post will definitely help you out. We share our detailed reviews and advice on how to choose the right harness for boxer dogs. Queries like what are the best harnesses for boxer dogs or which harness is good for boxer dogs. Why use a harness for a boxer dog? That is why many people opt to buy a harness instead. Harnesses also come in handy because they make it harder for your dog to escape from his leash. If you have an excitable Boxer, you might find that he slips out of his collar regularly and runs off when he catches sight of something interesting. With a harness, this is much less likely to happen. Boxers can be strong, active dogs. They can be a bit stubborn and difficult to train as well. It is important that you get the right harness for your boxer so that you can control him easily and keep him safe. There are many different types of harness for boxer dog to choose from. Some work well for certain breeds but not for others. You need to consider several factors before making your choice. The first thing you will want to consider is what type of dog you have. A big, strong dog like a boxer may need more support than a smaller breed such as a Chihuahua or Dachshund. This means that the material used in making the harness may not be strong enough for him to wear it comfortably without any pain or discomfort. Also, if your boxer has been trained already then he may not like wearing something new on his body! The next thing to consider when choosing a harness for your boxer is their weight. Boxers come in a wide variety of weights depending on the breeder and the age of your dog. So it is important to do some research before you buy a harness so that you purchase one that fits your dog correctly. You also need to think about where your dog will be spending most of his time while wearing the harness. If he spends a lot of time indoors then he may prefer a lighter weight model that allows him more freedom of movement while still being able to hold onto his leash securely. Type of harness There are a few different types of harnesses available on the market, and each type has its own unique features. For example, some come with padded straps, while others have extra leashes. Standard Harness: Simple in design and used by multiple dog breeds, this harness can be found in most pet stores. Adjustable Harness: As the name suggests, this harness allows you to adjust it for the perfect fit on your dog. This type is ideal for dogs that are still growing or dogs that change weight often. Step-In Harness: This type of harness features a hole where your dog steps through so the straps go over their back instead of under their stomach. It is then secured with Velcro or snaps in the front. Step-in harnesses are ideal for small dogs as they offer more control when walking them compared to other styles Training harness: This harness is used for teaching your dog to pull and for training sled dogs. The dog wears a collar, and the lines are attached to that, not to the harness. Figure-eight harness: This is a good choice for a dog who pulls excessively since it puts pressure against his chest when he pulls. The innovative placement of the Front Leash Attachment helps prevent choking. According to the PetSafe website, this harness is suitable for dogs that like to pull on their leashes. With a single leash attachment point at the front and four straps for a better fit, this harness might be a good choice for training your dog not to pull. The Tactical Dog Harness has been ergonomically designed to fit an array of dog breeds. Easy to adjust, please measure your pet before placing an order. The harnesses are not designed to carry heavy weights on their own, but provide a convenient way to attach your pooch to a leash or anywhere else you need. The Kurgo harness is a front-range harness that includes a seat belt attachment and a lifetime warranty. The harnesses are easy to put on, sturdy, and comfortable for your pet. Kurgo has designed a harness for dogs that is easy to put on and serves as a dog seatbelt attachment. It has many features that make it a sturdy, dependable dog harness. And because the affordable Kurgo harness is designed by people who love dogs, it also has plenty of comfortable padding for your four-footed friend. This harness uses a martingale loop at the back of its chest to help control large dogs that pull too hard. It is designed to make training your dog easier by using the top attachment point for walking and the front attachment point for more control. There are a few different ways of using this harness and it comes with a handy guide to help you adjust it. It has 2 lead attachment points and reinforced webbing at the chest to resist pulling, ensuring additional control. Suitable for everyday walks and training. Foam-padded straps across the chest and belly provide equal load distribution and comfort when running, walking, or resting. The Ruffwear Front Range Dog Harness is an excellent harness for hiking, walking, and training dogs of all breeds. The design offers increased control and comfort for both dogs and owners. It can be customized to fit your dog with 4 points of adjustment, allowing it to move comfortably and making it easier to train. The harness has reinforced webbing at the chest, which helps resist pulling while also giving you additional control. Boxers and other strong pulling dogs in the UK have been known to be difficult to walk with a step-in harness. They have a better chance of walking well with the heavy-duty and durable Julius-K9 harness. This harness is designed for strength, not for light pulling. Designed for urban walks, power harnesses are easy to fit and provide you with professional control. The sturdy construction of the harness allows you to control your dog with confidence. Reliability and durability are guaranteed by the shatterproof buckle, and the use of first-class materials. The reflective elements of the harness ensure good visibility, and the first-class lining provides comfort. The question of whether a dog collar or harness for boxer dogs is better for a Boxer is not easy to answer. It really depends on the individual Boxer, their training, and what you are using it for. Both collars and harnesses have their own pros and cons regarding these factors. If you are unsure which one to use, you can always try them both out to see which one suits your Boxer best. A dog harness is a more natural way to walk your Boxer. Dog collars create uncomfortable pressure on the trachea, cause coughing and gagging, and can even lead to serious damage to the trachea. Boxers have a tendency to pull when walking and a harness gives you much better control over your dog. In contrast, a dog collar puts pressure on the neck which could cause serious injury if your Boxer pulls or lunges. Boxers are very strong dogs, and if they pull on their leash, you could end up with a shoulder injury. A harness makes it easier for you to control your Boxer. A harness is also more comfortable for your Boxer than a collar. Many dog owners use both a collar and a harness. The harness is put on the dog when the dog is outside and the collar is used for identification purposes only. I would choose a harness for boxer dog because the leash can handle a bigger dog. A collar might break if you try to get the dog off of another dog. In Conclusion When deciding on a harness for boxer dog, there are a few things that you need to consider. One of the most important is deciding how you want them to wear and we will guide you through that process. Many different types of harnesses are available on the market today. Harnesses should not be used as a replacement for a collar but do offer an extra layer of protection against pulling and escaping from the owner. Hope this article has helped you choose the best harness for boxer dog! Have a point of view to share? Let us know! Share your training tricks below! Please feel free to ask any questions you may have about purchasing a puppy, owning a dog, training, or anything else related to pets.

Your breeder should be concerned with breeding healthy dogs, rather than focused primarily on selling them. Visit a potential breeder and observe his interactions with his dogs; they should be friendly and relaxed. The AKC advocates for the responsible ownership of dogs and promotes purebred dog events, such as the Westminster Dog Show. Go to source Look for breeders who are registered with national organizations such as the American Kennel Club [3] X Research source or with breed-specific organizations such as the National Labrador Retriever Club. Ask the breeder why these two particular dogs were bred. If they have had other litters, ask for references from people who bought those puppies. If you want a gun dog, don't choose a breeder who primarily raises cuddly pets or award-winning show dogs. These breeders will be able to assess puppies more accurately for the qualities you're seeking. Look for quantifiable measures. For example, select breeders with litters from parents who have hunt test or field trial scores if you want a puppy who will grow into a good hunting dog. These are organizations that work to find homes for Labradors who need a good home. While these organizations often have many adult and even senior dogs who need homes, they also place puppies. Charities or non-profits may offer Labrador puppies for auction as a means of raising funds. Because these auctions are often conducted without appropriate legal oversight and because they encourage rash decisions about pet ownership, they are opposed by groups such as the National Labrador Retriever Club. Country Life June 21, This picture could only be improved if the puppies were using their paws to cover ears, eyes and mouth respectively.But, well, you can't have everything. Credit: Alamy If you're after a labrador — aka 'the world's favourite dog' — you'll need to take some expert advice. It is one of the most versatile breeds, capable of working in search and rescue, as a guide dog, in medical detection, as a sniffer or assistance dog and in the theatre of war. Labrador tips from the experts Go to a specialist breeder, so that you can see the different generations of a breeding line. Make temperament, not sex, your overriding factor when choosing. As soon as your puppy wakes up, take it outside. When introducing the labrador to a lead, walk it with an older dog. A yellow Labrador puppy. Possible labrador problems to look out for Canine hip dysplasia is a genetic disease, causing the abnormal development of the hip socket, resulting in pain and lameness. Listen for a popping sound when the dog walks, and look for reluctance to use stairs, as well as sensitivity when you touch the hindquarters. Labradors can also be prone to retinal dysplasia, an inherited condition that affects labradors used for field work, and results in their developing blind spots. Generally, the dog can work around this by changing head position. Reputable breeders will be able to show certification that the dog has no eye conditions, which you should ask to see when buying a dog. Head and skull: Skull broad with defined stop; clean-cut without fleshy cheeks. Jaws of medium length, powerful not snippy. Nose wide, nostrils well developed. Eyes: Medium size, expressing intelligence; brown or hazel. Ears: Not large or heavy, hanging close to head and set rather far back. Mouth: Jaws and teeth strong with a perfect, regular and complete scissor bite. Coat: Distinctive feature, short dense without wave or feathering, giving fairly hard feel to the touch; weather-resistant undercoat. No need to scroll down: we can confirm that the Golden Retriever is indeed on the list below. Credit: Alamy Which is the more popular spaniel, the springer or the cocker? Shooting Times's David Tomlinson weighs up the pros and Close up of dog. Credit: Getty Images With a silken coat, affectionate nature and boundless enthusiasm for life, the Cavalier King Charles spaniel lives up to its Credit: Getty As the dog world prepares for Crufts , we take a look at the breed of dog which has been A sprocker spaniel Picture: Alamy Whether you own labradors, springers, cockers or a mix of all three, debate over which gundog is best has raged Related. We may earn money or products from the companies mentioned in this post. That sweet ball of fluff who will be your walking buddy, later snuggling up on the couch together. After all, your pup will probably be with you for a dozen years or more. So he has to be a great fit. It should never be a hasty decision. But it should also be FUN! That brings us to the question: how to choose the perfect puppy? Read on! You picture fun romps in the field, playing frisbee, and showing little Max off to all of your friends. But before getting a puppy, there are so many practical things to review in deciding whether to even get a puppy. My first dog as an adult was a shih tzu named Cuddles. My husband and I had discussed getting a dog for a while. We both worked and knew that the pup would take up a lot of time. Not to mention the expenses associated with a dog. But I saw the little gold and white week-old ball of fluff and was smitten. Luckily, I had a family member who could take her out to potty and exercise her during the day. In choosing your new pup, the following considerations are important. Are You Active or a Couch Potato? Can You Afford a Puppy? A puppy is more than the initial purchase. That can be a drop in the bucket compared with the lifetime costs of owning a dog. There are bills for: food and treats; chews; vets; crates ; beds; collars, harnesses, and leashes; training classes; dog walkers; dog daycare; pet insurance; enzymatic cleaners ; grooming—and more. These can really add up. You may decide not to get pet health insurance and not need pet walkers or doggie daycare, but expenses can really add up over the years. Do You Have Children? Children and pets can be a great match. You want to make sure that you choose the right canine. A toy breed may not be the right choice for a toddler. A tiny dog may inadvertently be injured by such a young child. We raised puppies for years before we had kids so we had a good idea of expectations for our puppy. If you have very young kids a rambunctious Lab may not be the right choice. Do You Have Other Pets? You need to take into consideration any other pets you have. If you have a senior dog, for example, a young puppy may not be a great choice. Are you gone too many hours to take care of a puppy? A friend of mine who works hour days decided not to get a puppy. The pup would have been alone too long. A puppy needs attention and potty breaks. Of course we need to work. You may be able to have someone come in and exercise, feed, and potty the pup. And give him attention during the day. As I discussed, you may need help with the new puppy. If you have reliable relatives or friends who can regularly help out, it can make getting a puppy much more realistic. Or you can hire pet sitters or walkers to help out. If you live in small quarters, a large, rambunctious breed may not be best. As young puppies, goldens can be wild, even inside. Of course, with a sufficient amount of mental stimulation and physical exercise, you can make it work. After Dalmations came out, everyone wanted one. Dalmations are high-drive, independent dogs. I was called to work with a family who got a Dalmation puppy that was wrecking their house. The minute walk the pup was getting was just a warm-up for the dog. We set up an exercise and training program for the puppy and the family was able to keep him. Do your research. The American Kennel Club lists purebred dogs and their needs and health profiles. Before choosing a certain breed, consider the following. Large or Small? You should have an idea what size dog you want. Conversely, if you want a frisbee or jogging partner, a chihuahua would be a bad choice. Why Do You Want a Dog? This may seem like a silly question. Most people want a dog for companionship. But you may have additional things in mind. You may want a jogging partner. Or a dog to do therapy work with. Or to show in obedience. Grooming Needs Would you love spending time every day brushing and combing a dog? Exercise Needs As you know, some breeds need a lot of exercise. We also do obedience training and she plays with puzzle toys. Lifespan Of course we want our pups to live forever. But some breeds generally live longer than others. Generally, larger—especially giant breeds—have shorter lives than their smaller counterparts. Friendliness or Independence Of course within any breed and litter you can have a wide array of personalities. But there are certain breed characteristics that can help guide your choice of which breed you want. I have dogs at both ends of the spectrum. My golden retriever Riley loves everyone and would do great in any setting. But my Lhasa apso Ralphie—true to breed—is more discriminating when making friends. So Riley would be great with well-behaved children and would love to be hugged by them. Health Problems Any dog can have unforeseeable health problems. But some breeds are likely to have more health problems than others. For example, bulldogs, pekingese, and pugs are among the breeds that are more likely to have breathing problems and overheat. Breed Types Of course there are many breeds and mixes to choose from. If you get your dog from a breeder, consider what lines your puppy comes from. If from working lines, the dog will likely be more intense than if from show lines. All of the below classes of dogs can make great companions in the right setting. Herding dogs were bred to herd, of course. Popular examples are border collies, Australian shepherds, and Shetland sheepdogs. Generally, they require more exercise than some breeds like toy breeds. And they may become destructive if left to their own devices. Also, some bark excessively and may not be good in an apartment setting. Sporting dogs were bred to hunt. They have a lot of energy and need regular, invigorating exercise. Popular examples are golden retrievers, labrador retrievers, and cocker spaniels. Just like other working-type dogs, hounds have almost limitless energy. So attention to you may be an issue. Also, some bay when excited. Popular examples are beagles, dachshunds, and greyhounds. Dogs from the working group are alert, intelligent, strong, and bred to work with people to perform various tasks. Some were bred to guard property, to pull sleds, or to perform water rescue. Some popular examples are Doberman pinschers, huskies, and rottweilers. They require not only exercise and precise training so that their natural instincts are kept in check. Terriers are feisty and energetic and vary greatly in size. They were bred to hunt and kill vermin, So a squirrel they see on their walk will be very alluring to them—and, without training, they may almost pull you off your feet trying to get to it. Some popular examples are Parson Russell terriers, Staffordshire terriers, or West Highland whirte terriers. Pit bulls which is a generic name for many types of terriers are also in this group. Toy breeds were generally bred as amiable companions. They may make great lap dogs and have big personalities despite their small stature. Shih tzus, Maltese, Yorkshire terriers, and chihuahuas are some very popular examples. Nonsporting group dogs are a catch-all group with various sizes and personalities. Some popular examples are bulldogs, French bulldogs, bichon frise. There are so many options. You may want a certain breed. So a breeder or rescue of that breed should meet your needs. Just make sure that the breeder is a good one. Good breeders do so to improve their breed. Bad ones care only about making money. They do any necessary health certifications. They put a lot of time into their litters socializing them to new experiences and people. Good breeders are invested in their litters and will help you choose the right puppy for you. They stand behind their dogs for life and will readily answer your questions and take the dog back if you need to give him up. You can get referrals to such breeders through breed clubs, dog clubs, and resources such as the American Kennel Club. A reputable, good breeder also will have questions for you regarding your family, work, home, activity level, and reason why you want a dog or their breed. The pups will also have been checked by a veterinarian and been given the appropriate vaccinations for their age. There are also breed rescues that rehome dogs of their chosen breed. However, they rarely have puppies. Shelters and rescue groups can also be great places to get a puppy. Many use foster homes, where a puppy or litter of puppies are located. Foster parents get to know the puppies and can help determine whether any particular puppy is a good fit for you. Many rescue groups try to place a puppy in the best home possible. When I adopted my Aussie mix puppy Mille, the rescue group would adopt her out only to people who had experience with herding breeds. Many shelters are first come-first served. In order to place as many dogs as possible, they will adopt out a puppy to the first person who wants him—barring any obvious reason not to. How to Choose a Puppy from a Litter There are many tests that can be given to determine whether a puppy is a good fit. This assumes you have a litter to choose from. There is a range of temperaments and personalities in each litter, No puppy may perfectly meet every test below. But look at the big picture. So, in addition to your own observations, you can bring a friend along to have another opinion about the litter. Or you could hire a trainer to help you choose. Overall, as a companion, a middle-of-the-road dog usually works out best. Also, a reputable breeder or good rescue group or shelter who knows the puppy can help guide you in making your decision. See the Mother and Littermates If you can, watch the puppy and his littermates and mother interact. The puppy you choose should be able to take a proper correction and back off then re-engage. The breeder should have the mother available. Check Out the Puppy The puppy should look healthy and alert, not lethargic. Inspect his coat and skin. He should be well-fed with a little fat around his rib cage. The pup should run and walk normally, without a limp. A puppy should engage with people and be curious, not slink away or cower. A scared puppy will probably be more difficult to socialize and train. Will he follow you if you walk away? Clap your hands and make a kiss sound. Will he come towards you or run for the hills? Hold Puppy on His Back Hold him on his back for about 30 seconds. Ideally, he should briefly struggle and relax. When I had two sheltie puppies to choose from and one fought constantly when held and the other struggled briefly, then settled, I chose the latter. I had already gotten another dog from this great breeder. I wanted a dog who was a companion but who I also wanted to show in competitive obedience. My choice turned out to be the right one. Duffy was a great dog to live with and became a nationally-ranked obedience dog. He also did agility for fun and was a therapy dog who visited a hospital on a weekly basis. Hold the puppy and touch and gently open his mouth. Look in and gently rub his ears. .Gently touch each paw, even putting slight pressure on them. The puppy should be comfortable with these activities. He may slightly struggle. But a puppy who really fights against such touching, even to the point of mouthing or growling may turn out to be difficult to groom, handle, and pet. Pet the dog calmly from head to toe. He should enjoy it and relax. Pick the Puppies Up If you hold each puppy around the middle, ideally he would be relaxed and not struggle. Also, cradle the puppy up against you. Ideally, he should relax and like the attention. He may startle at first but should rebound and even go and check out what made the noise. Social Dominance Fall to the ground at least a few feet away from the puppy. He should want to come over and see what happened. Even if you like the look of a certain puppy, he may not be the right puppy for you. Consider the above factors as well as the following when choosing a puppy. The dogs live in rabbit-type hutches or dark barns. They receive no proper socialization, vet care, or human contact. There are also small back-yard breeders which, essentially, are puppy mills on a smaller scale. The mothers are bred at each heat and have horrible lives. Dogs sold in pet shops and through the internet usually come from them. Of course, do your own research because no one will admit they are a puppy mill. But two puppies may bond too much with each other. And to train, socialize, and exercise each puppy requires a lot of time, energy, and money. The dogs in shows have been highly trained and specially selected for their jobs. Then pick a great breeder, rescue, or shelter. Final Thoughts Getting a new puppy is such an exciting time! Do you have a puppy? How did you decide to choose him? Please let us know in the comment section below. Helps ease anxiety in their new home. We love using Bully Sticks to help divert these unwanted behaviors. For a list of all the supplies we get for our new service dog puppies check out our New Puppy Checklist on the PuppyInTraining. I had wanted a female red lab, none were available. A trainer near me was getting a second dog from a renowned breeder in Ireland and she asked if he had a puppy for diabetic service dog work. Both her pup and my pup flew over from Ireland together. A pup with a desire to work, a willingness to please, and a calm demeaner. I received a cute ball of fluff, a male yellow lab pup with red ears and red highlights. A good breeder is able to match you with a dog that will meet your needs, give them all the information you can. I never met the breeder, but my pup arrived at 10 weeks old already already on his way to being well socialized, exposed to sounds, not nervous, liked the vacuum, fireworks are not a problem, loves the motorcycle sounds, handled all sorts of traffic noise at 3 months. We started his public training at 3 months old and he handled it like a champ. I had to buy a motorcycle with a sidecar as he always wanted to go out when the bikes were started up, so at 9 months he was in the sidecar with Rex Specs goggles. Did I mention he loves to travel and meet me people, when his tail wags which is all the time his whole body wags. I am new to this forum so should introduce myself. As you can imagine its left an uneasy quietness to the house so we are looking for her successor In our home its my wife, myself and our 8 yr old daughter and 6 yr old son. He says he breeds only for good disposition only as any good breeder should and our quick meeting with parents it looked to be accurate. The dad was in a large outdoor kennel and looked to be very friendly. She did a quick snarl when we first got near which I have to give a pass as i'm sure she's just being protective, right? After the breeder told her its OK she calmed right down. Anyways, there are 4 females that we get first pick of when we go back. Of course training and exercise play a huge role in this so that we'll have covered. Does it still hold true that when you are looking at the liter to see which ones come to you and let you hold them on their back and settle after a short period to determine good nature rather than overly squirmy? Such a big decision i just wanted to make sure we do this right. We were so spoiled with our last pup its hard to compare! Selecting Your Labrador Retriever Puppy Selecting your puppy Try to restrain your emotions when you are selecting our pup. Remember that the breeder has been with the pup from day 1 to selection day at 5 weeks. At Pawlinglabs, we will ask you to forward a list of the characteristics that your are hoping for, prior to selection. When you come to select, we will ask you to observe the litter before entering and handling the pups. Labrador pups are very cute and cuddly, but when it comes time to select the right one for you there is plenty to consider. Carefully observe Labrador Retriever puppies before buying them, ensuring that the pup you select looks healthy and is to breed standard. There are some basic points to note about Labrador Retriever standards. The coat of a Labrador is their most distinctive feature. Labs have two coats, the water resistant undercoat which is unseen, and the top coat which is dense, straight and short. There is might be a slight wave in their coat, however the coat should feel rough to the touch. Labrador puppies come in three different coat colors: yellow light cream to red fox , chocolate liver and black. There must not be any other colours in the coat. Labs have a broad skull and a well defined stop. Their head is quite large but the features on the head, such as the ears, look proportioned. The ears of a Labrador should be set far back from the face. The inside skin of the ears should be a pale pink and soft without any scabs or discoloration. There shouldn't be any odour coming from them. The eyes of a Lab pup are round, either deep brown or hazel with black rims. The eyes should be friendly and express intelligence. The Labrador Retriever has a wide black and well developed nose with distinguished nostrils. The nose should be clean and without discharge. Be aware that a wet nose is not an indication that the Lab is healthy, nor does a dry nose indicate he is unwell. The teeth should be set square to the jaws with the top teeth slightly overlapping the bottom. Labrador puppies have fewer teeth than adults and they will lose their baby teeth as their adult teeth grow in. Labs have a well developed and strong chest. It has good depth and width. Their barreled ribs are well sprung and their back is level. Their loins are wide and strong. The skin of a Lab should be without scabs or bumps. It is normal for Labrador puppies to have extra skin at the back of their neck; this is how their mother picks them up. The skin color of a lab is usually pale pink but it can also be brown or even spotted. The tail of a Labrador is thick at the base and tapers towards the tip. The tail is a moderate length and has no feathering. It is as smooth like the rest of the coat with a rounded appearance. The tails is even with the back or slightly upwards. It should never be carried over the back or hang down. Labrador have long and sloping shoulders that connect to the strong front legs. The hind legs are developed well and have a turned stifle. Both the front and hind legs should be straight. The feet of Labrador pups are compact and perfectly round. Their toes are arched and pads well developed. Feet should be straight, not turned inwards or outwards. The gait of a Labrador should be carefree. Labs take long strides and walk straight. Observe your puppies as he walk. Make sure it is not favoring any leg or paw. This can be a sign of a current or future health issue. Pawling Chocolate and Black Labradors. Tweet on Twitter Buying your first dog can be a life changing decision. Choosing the right dog will help to ensure that your life changes in a good way. There are some wise precautions you might like to consider before viewing any litter of Labrador puppies. Or choosing which one to bring home with you. Buying a Puppy from a Friend It is often tempting to buy a puppy in an opportunistic moment of enthusiasm. Perhaps because you happen to hear of a friend who has a litter that will be ready to go to their new homes soon. Or a neighbour who has a gorgeous litter of puppies that you fall in love with when you pop over to admire. But the puppy that lives just around the corner, and the puppy that is going to bring you years of pleasure, may be two very different things. It is a really good idea to put your sensible hat on at times like these, and to approach the whole business of selecting your puppy in business-like way. The first decision to make is to choose what type of Labrador you wish to end up with. Which characteristics are most important to you, and will help him to fit into your family best. Choosing a Working or Show dog? Those bred for work, and those bred for the show ring. The working bred dog is generally very responsive and easy to train. But he may also fall short of what you expect in appearance. If you are hoping to get involved in gundog fieldwork, or agility at some point it is important to purchase a field or working bred labrador. Of course choosing a dog is so much more than just weighing up the pros and cons. There are now a number of hereditary diseases in labradors that can be tested for. Routine testing under these schemes is gradually growing in popularity for a number of conditions. These include hip dysplasia, elbow displasia, and a number of inherited eye diseases. However, there are still many puppies available for sale in the UK whose parents have not been tested, or that have been tested and fall below the necessary standard for breeding. Amazingly, in the UK, the Kennel Club will still register puppies from parents that have poor hip scores. Hopefully this will change in the future. You will need to read up on these to make sure you understand what you are looking for. Finding the right dog breeder Knowing where to look for a breeder is not easy. Labrador breeders come in all shapes and forms. At their best breeders are dedicated experts on their breed, who produce a few litters each year of top quality puppies for their own kennels show or field and sell any surplus to quality pet homes. At their worst, breeders are simply puppy farmers who churn out litter after litter with no thought to the health and welfare of either the puppies or their mother. Telling the difference is not always straightforward. In some cases these may be excellent puppies, in other cases they will not. The key to a good litter is a quality female dog with excellent health clearances, put to a compatible quality dog with equally excellent health clearances, and given quality care throughout pregnancy and beyond. The female dog must have a purpose beyond producing puppies, whether that is as show dog, working dog or highly treasured family pet. On the whole, this is more likely to be achieved by an experienced breeder. The Kennel Club in the UK run an accredited breeders scheme, and members agree to meet certain minimum standards. However, there are many excellent breeders who are not members of this scheme so do not dismiss a breeder on these grounds alone. The scheme is not perfect yet, and its standards are not necessarily enforced, as the KC prefers a voluntary approach. If you are inexperienced it is very important that you get some help in finding a breeder. Choosing one from a newspaper advert or from the internet when you know nothing of the source can be a risky decision. If you want to buy a pup from top working parents, then you may find the pups are all spoken for very quickly, long before they are eight weeks old. It can be disheartening to phone advert after advert only to find all the pups are gone. It pays to plan ahead. If you do some research, locate a really nice female dog, and book one of her pups before they are born, you may find the whole process a lot smoother. You may also be able to enjoy visiting and photographing the puppies whilst they are growing. Check the ancestry of the dog If you are buying a Labrador for gundog work, or agility, make sure the parents of the litter you want to view are from working stock, look for a few FTCH and FTW field trial champion and field trial winner in the pedigree. If you are hoping for success in the show ring, you should be looking for CH and SH CH title SH CH is show champion, CH is a show champion with a working certificate which is not a demanding or difficult test of working abilities. Viewing the puppies Some puppies will be raised in the home with the family. This can be ideal, as the pup will have been accustomed to people and the hustle and bustle of family life from the very beginning. Be aware though that not everyone who has a litter of puppies knows what they are doing. Look at how the pups are handled and how clean their quarters are. The pups should smell nice, and look bright and healthy. The litter may have been whelped and raised in kennels. This is also perfectly acceptable provide the breeder has accounted for this. An experienced breeder will have made sure that the pups have had plenty of human contact regardless of where they are living. Again look at the surroundings. A responsible breeder will run a clean and tidy kennels. Always see a puppy with its mother. If possible see the father too. The parents should be friendly and relaxed. The mother may not look her best seven or eight weeks after giving birth, but she should look healthy. Again, if you doubt your ability to make a judgement on a puppy or his parents, take an experienced person with you. Dog or female dog? Until fairly recently male dogs were more popular than female dogs. Fashions come and go, and at the moment, female dogs seem to be in favour. You will hear various claims as to the differences in temperament between them, but most of these contradict each other and it really is a matter of personal taste. The main disadvantage of a female dog is that she will come into season twice a year each year from the age of months until the end of her life. This can be inconvenient. Having your female dog spayed will prevent her coming into season, but the procedure is a major and expensive operation, and recent research has shown a few problems associated with spaying that you will want to consider before making your choice. Because female dogs are currently fashionable, you will probably pay more for a female dog, but as the price of a puppy is such a tiny fraction of what you will spend on her over her lifetime this is probably the least relevant factor. The appearance of a male dog may be more pleasing to some. Males tend to develop a squarer, more chunky head which some owners prefer. The average male will also grow a little taller and weigh a little more than a female. These differences are however fairly minor ones. If you are not sure whether you want a dog or female dog, keep an open mind. At least you will have a wider choice of puppies. Which puppy? If you have booked a puppy in advance from a reputable breeder, there may be little or no choice as to which puppy you have. It is not unusual to find that all puppies due in popular kennels have been booked before birth. If you are keen to buy a dog with plenty of red ink on the pedigree, you may need to do some research and book the pup as soon as the female dog has been mated. If you do get the chance to choose your puppy out of several in a litter, how should you go about it? Puppy Health Having made sure that the parents of the puppy you are viewing have good health clearances is a good start. You still need to make sure your puppy is healthy. A thorough check up by your own vet soon after you get him home will help put your mind at rest. But how can you be sure the puppy you are viewing is not sickly even before you bring him home? Some puppies may be more lethargic than others when you visit, but this may be a reflection of how hard they have been playing before you arrived, rather than how healthy they are. A good breeder will not try and sell an unhealthy puppy and if relevant, will point out any minor defects to you. Puppies are sometimes born with slightly misaligned jaws for example, which may not matter to someone who has no intention of breeding from the puppy or working him, but such a defect should not be concealed from the buyer. Umbilical hernias are not uncommon and can be troublesome. When you go to view a litter of pups it is really important to take someone with experience with you. This is especially important if the breeder is unknown to you and does not come recommended by anyone. Arrange to visit your vet within a day or two of bringing the pup home, and try not to form an attachment until he has been given a clean bill of health. If you have any doubts about the health of the puppy or the litter in general, ask for time to think. This dog will be with you for the next 12 years or more. You will become deeply attached to him or her and serious health problems can be cripplingly expensive to fix. Not to mention very distressing for you both. This needs to be the right decision for you and your family. Whilst health problems in puppies can be devastating the majority of puppies are robust and healthy and providing you take the precautions outlined above, you are unlikely to have any problems. More information on puppies Check out our Labrador Puppies section for more help and advice on choosing your new friend. Published in April , the Happy Puppy Handbook covers every aspect of life with a small puppy. It will help you prepare your home for the new arrival, and get your puppy off to a great start with potty training, socialization and early obedience. This article was first published on 21st November , and was updated to include new information in March .Readers Also Liked. No doubt, selection of the right pup to meet one's particular expectations is extremely important. Making a correct choice can improve the odds of producing an excellent retriever with the least amount of frustration and perhaps even avoid disappointment. The first and most important point to consider is that one must approach puppy acquisition as a genetic selection process rather than trying to utilize methods to select a promising prospect from a particular litter. Focus not so much on picking a pup, rather pick litters. The way to pick potentially successful liters is to pick a breeder who has proven brood stock and a credible reputation for producing healthy pups genetically predisposed to perform in a manner you desire. Carefully consider your expectations for your future gundog. What are the desirable traits? What will the dog's primary functions include? What breeds interest you and why? Once you decide on a breed and the desired traits are defined based upon your intended uses, then seek a reputable breeder who has experience producing pups which exemplify the traits that best suit your purposes. Genes determine the reaction of the dog to its environment, as well as, confirmation and soundness. Genes are the building blocks of heredity and are passed from parents to offspring in a predictable manner. The topic of genetics can quickly progress into a lengthy discussion unsuitable for this article but one can count on knowing this-like begets like. Total outcrosses, matings of unrelated genetics, may produce the occasionally exceptional offspring, but this is an unpredictable undertaking. The only way to gain predictability of traits is to seek an experienced breeder with proven bloodlines which produce successful progeny. This will usually involve some form of line breeding. The mating of similar genetic relationships line breeding is conducted to intensify qualities within the line and to improve upon the predictable traits within litters. Line breeding is successfully practiced in all forms of livestock. Line breeding itself produces nothing, good or bad, it merely intensifies what is genetically there in the bloodline. Most professional breeders use some form of line breeding as soon as they find a successful combination. In other words, outcrosses, random matings, despite the parents' apparent abilities and or titles, will not assure that the traits of the parents will be passed to the offspring. Only line breeding can offer this possibility. Consider, too, there is often as much difference between litter mates in ability, temperament, and tractability as one might find between separate litters within a breed. The chance factor remains, but the odds improve if the buyer: 1. Buys from established, reputable breeders who know their business. Buys pups from breeders who specialize in producing the type retriever they desire. Buys pups produced by excellent gundog parents who have produced proven progeny from previous matings. Select litters with strong mother lines. Dams should be trained hunting dogs and she should possess the qualities you desire in your dog, not just in the sire. Dams project more influence on the litter than the sire. Good bitches are seldom mated to poor dogs, yet the opposite frequently occurs. A poor bitch is unlikely to produce good pups despite the virtues of the sire. Look closely for desirable traits and strength in the trailing bottom line of the pedigree That is the dam, granddam, great granddam, etc. Excellent mothers are important. Don't pick litters based solely on the number of titles in the pedigree. These are impressive achievements to be sure, but they are not indicators of natural tractability, temperament, and gamefinding ability. Nor do titles indicate whether the traits may be passed successfully to the offspring. Evaluate parents of pups based upon gundog standards important to your needs and their demonstrated ability to produce good pups. Seek out sires, dams and grandparents that project strong genetic traits that can be passed through to their offspring. Research has indicated grandsires and granddams prove to have more genetic influence upon the litter than the sire and dam. Genetics can influence natural gifts, such as: calm temperament. Normally Lab puppies travel well, find more on this here. For many people it can be stressful not knowing how to pick or why you should pick any specific puppy. We will try to clear things up here so that you have a few criteria to select with. For the most part, the genetics of the purebred Lab puppies in the litter are set once the parents mate. When we choose to keep parents to breed we are choosing the best specimens and mating them with the hope that we are going to be creating even better puppies through the combination of their genes. Improving on weak areas with each litter is what professional breeding is all about. Now that you understand the genetic potential is set, you will work within your litter to try to narrow down the puppy who goes home with you. Keep in mind, that all of the puppies in the litter are of high quality. So, standing over the puppy box containing the puppies have a look without saying anything or doing anything. The puppies will either have different colored collars or different colored ribbons on them to identify them. Each different color corresponds to a unique microchip number implanted in that puppy. What are you looking for? Well, observe which puppies are the most active and the least active. Observe which puppy is bossy and more of a leader, and, which is more of a follower. Are there any outgoing puppies? Are there any shy ones? Please understand that puppies and all dogs for that matter will feed off of the energy of the animals and the humans around them. So, if you bring your children and they are full of energy, talking loudly, excited, etc… then the puppies will pick up on that and imitate their behavior to an extent. We love to see the kids! The vet bills, training, the poop cleaning, nail clipping, taking out to go pee at 6 am, trips to the vet, and so on are yours. All yours! So unless you feel your children have better skills to choose the puppy than you, try to leave them out of it. You want to use the criteria here to select the lab puppy that fits your family the closest. Ok, there are a couple of things I need to say first. On your pick up day and depending on how many puppies are in the litter, your puppies may be sleeping. The good news to this issue is that there will not be a bad puppy in the litter. As professional Labrador Retriever Breeders our primary goal is to create better Labrador Retriever puppies with each litter we produce. Depending on what the issue was with the puppy we would care for them or home them with a person who fully understood any issue present and was willing to care for them. Getting back to selecting your puppy. As you watch over the litter try to narrow it down to two puppies you are interested in and watch them. Look for any excitement, playfulness, shyness, active or lying around, or differences in color, size, or other physical attributes such as tail size, ear size, forehead and snout size, etc…. This means that these dogs are super smart, even tempered, loving and willing to please all because of the Labrador Retriever breed and the selections we make in our breeding program. Training is key to having a well behaved Purebred Lab Retriever puppy. On the day you pick up your puppy it will be normal for the puppies to be on the shy side. Though they have been socialized by 5 or 6 of us they get use to us. So the new sights, smells, sounds etc… that you bring will all be a brand new thing for them. At 8 weeks old they are unsure if these new stimuli are safe and they may be cautious coming to you. Again, all normal. On the other hand, a puppy who comes right up to you with no apprehension may be the one you want. Especially if you are a hunter and you need your dog to work to retrieve game. You should also know that if a puppy runs from its pack to see you it is not choosing you! It could be the more dominant or most curious puppy and it would approach anyone coming to see the litter not just you. Can we pick your lab puppy? Sure we can! The latest research we have read on the topic indicates that how a puppy behaves at 8 weeks old when with its litter has no bearing on the puppy it becomes after you train it properly. This means that for most people the training and socialization you provide is much more important than which puppy you choose. We always suggest picking the most easily trainable puppy and we will be happy to do this for you. For the best explanation on setting yourself up properly to lead your puppy to becoming a well behaved dog, please sign up for the www. A generous discount is available for our clients to help you understand how to use positive reinforcement to train your puppy. So we are happy to offer advice and can absolutely choose your puppy in the event you cannot make it, but doing so on your own would be the best scenario. Another method we frown on is the breeder evaluating a puppy with a tool to grade their personality and then comparing that to a marking tool that you complete to grade yourself. Remember when I said puppies respond differently to different people? Well they have basic emotions similar to that of a two year old. If you are not in the room, and I am evaluating the puppy remember my experience with puppies and your lack of , then how can a score sheet be used to match the two of you together effectively? You need to see the puppy behave with you. So you have it narrowed down to two puppies, compare similar personality traits and physical features as I mentioned earlier. Toss in the fact that they have medium energy and poof! Please understand what you see the puppies doing on pick up day are not how they are going to act for the rest of their lives. Puppies are not born with any knowledge of these things and rather need to be trained to understand your boundaries. For this reason we have focused on breeding smarter puppies generation after generation. At least you have some guidelines to use when you arrive. For example, the largest puppy is not necessarily going to be the biggest one when full grown. At 8 weeks old the biggest puppy has been the one who is the pushiest at the food bowl and eats the most at feedings. This is why 8 weeks is the best time for your Lab puppy to go to bond with their human family. As some puppies get larger in size they can push the other smaller puppies around so size then becomes another factor in the development of your puppy. Take your puppy home at 8 weeks old and you have provided them time with their litter to learn puppy to puppy manners weeks 4 to 8 and you have eliminated the possibility of them being bullied by the larger pups after week 8. The larger pups also will not learn to become overly dominant because there are not smaller ones around them to boss around. What about people who want the runt? The first group feel that because the runt is smaller they will listen better when truly listening is a skill learned through training. And the second group feel that a smaller puppy is sick and weak and will not thrive. Again this is not the case as smaller puppies simply do not have as strong of a food drive than their siblings. The larger issue surrounding the runt is this. Professional Lab Retriever Breeders breed for consistency. It is this consistency in our breeding program that ensures the first picked puppy is of the same high quality as the last picked. So before you arrive to choose your Purebred Lab Puppy, have a couple behavioral qualities in mind and a couple physical qualities. Observe quietly and try not to bring too many people with you so that the puppies only pick up your energy and not the energy of the group. This is the best way to truly observe how the puppy will react to you alone. Narrow it down to a couple and compare them together measuring them against your list of traits. If you make a choice to not train you have to be ready to deal with whatever your Lab decided to become. And one final note. Some people have heard to wipe a blanket where the puppy sleeps or on the mother because the scent will calm the puppy in your home. Think of it this way, if your puppy smells the mother or one of its littermates what does it do next? So a blanket with this scent on it will cue your puppy to look for someone who is likely not coming back. Imagine the frustration of a puppy newly separated from its litter being able to smell them but not find them. We suggest you do not do this to your puppy. Our suggestion to help settle the puppy only if you need to is to put a t shirt into the crate with the scent of the person who they bonded the most to. This is their new pack. Get them accustom to their new pack and the quicker they forget their old pack the easier it will be for them. Love them, set clear guidelines, and enjoy them for years to come. Chocolate Lab with pumpkin.

The Personality of the Labradoodle Labradoodle puppies that are bred and raised well have excellent temperaments. They are curious, playful, and friendly. But they are happiest whenever their favorite human or family is around them. Aside from being a popular and terrific family dog, the energetic Poodle and Lab mix is also suitable for owners who enjoy being active. Just make sure to always supervise when the children and the dog are playing together. How much exercise does a Poodle-Lab mix need? Generally, Labradoodles have a moderate to high activity level. They require about 30 minutes to an hour of exercise a day. Labradoodles enjoy the great outdoors, and like their Poodle parent, this breed loves the water. They can even be athletic enough to join sports for dogs like obedience, agility , and rally! We know that they can be your next jogging companion, but Labradoodles need time off the leash to burn off steam on their own. If your Labrapoodle feels stressed, lonely, or even overly stimulated, she will let you know by barking. How to Train a Smart Dog Like the Labradoodle Thanks to the intelligent Poodle and the eagerness to please the Lab, their offspring inherited those amazing traits and is generally easy to train. You can have people over from time to time or let your puppy meet new people during your walks. Take her shopping in stores that allow dogs, spend some time in busy parks, or even enroll her in puppy kindergarten classes. You should not only teach her housebreaking or crate training , but you should also teach her proper doggy etiquette. She should know how to act around other people, as well as where to go and what signs to give if she needs to go. All dogs need mental and physical stimulation to grow up into well-rounded dogs. If you do not spend time training your Labradordoodle, and you do not correct her naughty acts, she might get out of control and can be destructive. You have to make sure that she gets the care and nutrition she needs, and be aware of the possible health problems that your Labrador-Poodle cross may encounter. Once every three months is enough. There is one trick that Labradoodle owners must know. If your dog gets muddy, just let it dry and then brush her coat. If your Labbidoo is mostly indoors, you only need to brush her coat every couple of weeks. Once your Labradordoodle pup is around 8 months old, regular brushing is needed to strip out all the puppy coat and avoid it from tangling and getting matted in the adult fur. Start brushing your Lab and Poodle cross from the feet first, working your way up to her body and face using a slicker brush. Deal with one section at a time, stopping on parts with tangles. Then run a comb to detect smaller tangles. Keep combing her fur to make sure every section of her body is tangle-free. Bringing her in every 6 to 8 weeks will keep the coat easy to maintain. Read our article about 9 Labradoodle Haircuts to help you decide which hairstyle is best for your pet. Wiping her ears using a cotton ball dampened with a vet-prescribed pH-balanced cleaner can help keep infections or problems at bay. All Doodles tend to have hair growing inside their ear, and you would need to pluck them out for better air circulation. Make grooming a pleasant experience. If you need to include treats, do it! Diet Requirements for Labradoodles Keep in mind that how much a canine needs to eat would depend on a lot of factors — size, age, build, and activity level. Splitting meals would keep your dog from getting bloated, or worse, overweight. You would know if your doodle is not overweight if you can see her waist and feel her ribs without putting pressure. The Labrador Retriever and Poodle mix are generally healthier than their purebred parents, as they benefit from having hybrid vigor. The term hybrid vigor means the improved vitality of the offspring of two different breeds. The Labrapoo may be susceptible to the health problems that Poodles Standard or Miniature and Labradors suffer from, some of them are:. In general, curly coats are the most desired of them all, especially if they have a wool or fleece texture. With F1 Labradoodles, knowing what type of coat a dog will have is nearly impossible. Still, after looking at hundreds of Labradoodles, it seems like the straight coat is the least common one. Labradoodles inherit straight coats from their Labrador Retriever parents. A straight coat usually comes with the hair texture, which only increases the amount of shedding, something no Labradoodle owner wants. Wavy coats seem to be the most common ones. They are something between straight and curly coats. Curly coats are inherited from the Poodle parent. However, a curly coat also requires lots of maintenance. It is very prone to mats, especially if it comes in the form of wool or fleece. F1 Labradoodle Coat Colors While Goldendoodles are still considered the best Doodles by many, Labradoodles hold a tight second spot and some might even argue that F1 Labradoodles are better than F1 Goldendoodles. The main reason for this is that Labradoodles can come in dozens of various coat colors and patterns. On the other hand, Poodles can come in almost any coat color imaginable. This allows for some very colorful color combinations in the offspring — even though the most common ones will be the Labrador coat colors, as they can be found in both parents. They come in a very light gold shade that is almost white. They come in various yellow shades that are lighter than the red coat. As a result, not only is this dog rich brown in color, but its nose should be brown instead of black, as well. They come in a deep red coat color, but with black noses and dark eyes. As such, blue Labradoodles have a diluted brown to blue coat with a blue nose and lighter eyes. There cannot be any black colors present on them. They are lighter than the cream Labradoodles, but their color is not truly white, especially if you were to place them next to some pure white dogs. Sable markings are common, so the dog might appear to come in two shades. These pups have a base color and specific markings in other colors. These doggies usually have a white base coat with large patches of color. The most common color combination is black and white, although other colors are possible, as well. In general, F1 Labradoodles might have fewer varieties in coat color than other generations. Still, they are much more colorful than the first generations of most other Doodles. For example, chocolate F1 Labradoodles are more prone to any health condition, and they appear to have a shorter lifespan. Similarly, blue and chocolate F1 Labradoodles might get a color dilution alopecia, but this condition seems to be more common in standard and medium Labradoodles than in smaller sized dogs. F1 Labradoodles are known to change colors as they go from puppyhood to adulthood. Similarly, some black and blue Labradoodles might experience graying. This is the process during which their coat colors get a gray or silver shade. As such, this is something you need to be aware of. F1 Labradoodle Shedding Labradoodle shedding is yet another aspect of F1 Labradoodles that will entirely depend on from dog to dog. If your pooch inherited lots of Labrador genes, he is likely to experience moderate to severe amounts of shedding. On the other hand, dogs that have inherited the coat type of Poodles will be non-shedding. F1 Labradoodles with a wavy coat that is somewhere in between are usually going to be shedding, but only a tiny amount. The good thing is that F1 Labradoodle shedding is usually easy to keep under control. Only the heaviest of shedders are going to cause you trouble. Once every few months will be enough. Otherwise, you are risking making their skin worse. They are easy to clean — all you need to do is remove them and put them in a washing machine. Excessive shedding and hair loss can be a sign of many health conditions. Are F1 Labradoodles Hypoallergenic? One of the main reasons why Labradoodles are so desired is because they are considered hypoallergenic. Still, there are a few things I want to make clear. First off, whether or not an F1 Labradoodle will be hypoallergenic depends on its coat type. For example, if your Labradoodle has a straight coat, he will likely shed a lot — although this amount should never be as high as in Labrador Retrievers. There are many great products on Amazon and similar websites. This is something all dogs secrete. This is why you might be sneezing or experiencing breathing problems after playing with your dog. Also, not all dogs will drool in the same amount, and some dog breeds are very tidy about where they go potty. Labradoodles are considered clean dogs that will hate to get dirty. Because of this, some F1 Labradoodles can be considered hypoallergenic. This will mostly depend on their coat. This is why most backcrosses are much more allergy-friendly compared to F1 Labradoodles. They are a perfect combination of a cheerful Labrador Retriever and a friendly Poodle, which can result in an amazing low-shedding family pet. These dogs are very adaptable, so they can get used to the change in the environment rather quickly. They are amazing with kids, as they see children as their playmates. At the same time, F1 Labradoodles have a very low prey drive. However, they can be energetic and playful to the extreme, so you should still monitor them while around very small kids, especially if they are in standard size. A large F1 Labradoodle might accidentally knock a child over during playtime, causing injuries. These are affectionate dogs that love to please their owners. They will want nothing more than to make you happy. Potty training and obedience training is a piece of cake when you have such a loyal and smart companion. All of this is a reason why they are some of the best service dogs you can find. No dog breed can make better therapy dogs or guide dogs than an F1 Labradoodle. Sure, other Labradoodle generations can also do a great job in helping people. F1 Labradoodles are a perfect mix of both parent breeds, making them some of the best family pets and companions out there. They have plenty of genetic variation that ensures they have lots of healthy genes to pick from. Theoretically, they can get any health problem their parents can get, which means they are prone to more health conditions than their parents, but their chances of actually getting it are rather slim. How long has the Labradoodle been known as a breed? Labradoodles have been intentionally bred in Australia since .Wally Conran, a breeder of guide dogs, was the first breeder, using a standard poodle and Labrador retriever. The main goal was to create a dog that had the laid back nature of the Labrador coupled with the intelligence and allergy friendly coat of the Poodle. As the breed gained popularity, many kennels have bred and cross-bred the Labradoodle. What is an Australian Labradoodle? Over time infusions of some other breeds were added to target smaller sizes and more consistent, lower maintenance coats. The breed then became known as the Australian Labradoodle. Over the years the Labrador and poodle have kept a high degree of function ie agility and freedom of movement within their breeding. Both breeds were originally bred to be gun dogs, were excellent at retrieving waterfowl and due to their intelligence and trainability they are still used for hunting to this day. Labradors have a strong and muscular body, are athletic and playful and well known for their easy going gentle nature, placid and are great around children. However, they do love their food and are at the larger end of the scale, so harder to fit in the car. Poodles are long lived, have good genetic strengths and a well-proportioned muscular frame, which is helpful in preventing joint problems. They love to be close to their human as they can be less self-sufficient than the Labrador. They can also be a little bouncy and excitable. Both breeds are popular as working and family dogs as well as therapy and service dogs. Bred together, the hugely popular Labradoodle, which seems to moderate the extremes of both breeds, is intelligent, easy going and an affectionate companion with a low to non-shedding coat. Proudly created with Wix. We may receive commissions from purchases made via our links. I remember looking into getting a Labradoodle as a potential companion for Molly. Researching them was overwhelming! I was bombarded with different types of Labradoodles - F1 and F2 being the most common. I did the research so that you don't have to! So, which one is better — F1 or F2 Labradoodle? But what exactly is the difference between an F1 and F2 Labradoodle? What are their characteristics? What about other generations like F1b and F2b? F1, F2, F3, F1b, F2b — this is the accepted nomenclature to distinguish any designer dog breed between different generations. F1 is the first generation of Labradoodles, F1b not F2 is the second generation, and F2 is the third generation. From the third generation onwards, they are known as multi-generation Labradoodles. A multi-generation Labradoodle is one whose parents are both Labradoodles. How are they bred? Be prepared to play with them a lot and give them plenty of exercise. They make great family pets. Since Labradoodles are quite intelligent, they can be taught to do tricks and tasks easily. They shed less. But a particular Labradoodle may shed more than others. They make an excellent guide and therapy dogs. Their loving temperament also makes them ideal therapy dogs for people with depression, autism, or other issues. F1 Labradoodles This is the first-generation Labradoodle, a product of mating a purebred Labrador Retriever with a standard or miniature Poodle. With an F1 Labradoodle, we move away from the flat coat of a Labrador and the curly face of a Poodle. We end up with something in-between — an adorable puppy with a rocking wavy coat. As first-generation hybrids, the F1 Labradoodles are believed to be healthier than their parents. These added health benefits are associated with heterosis or hybrid vigor. However, for the puppy to enjoy these health benefits, both parent dogs need to be thoroughly tested for diseases. Labradors are known to have hip problems, and Poodles can also suffer hip dysplasia and eye disorders. F1 Labradoodles can easily live in families with mild allergic reactions. If someone in your family is highly allergic, getting an F1b Labradoodle is preferable as they are more allergy-friendly or hypoallergenic than F1. The only difference between an F1 and F2 Labradoodle is the genetic mixture. In an F2, the genes are mixed further, resulting in a lot more color variants than an F1 Labradoodle. The tendency to breed F2 Labradoodles is just to get a specific color or a fleece fur. F2, F3, and other higher generation Labradoodles are much more random in terms of appearance and other traits. Their shedding and temperament are also hard to predict precisely. Higher generations like F2 or F3 can look more Labrador-ish or Poodle-ish. Labradoodle puppies get their adult coat only after 12 months of age. Breeders need consistent results to sell, and F2 Labradoodles are the most unpredictable of all generations. You have all the information to answer this question for yourself. However, when comparing F1 and F2 Labradoodles, we recommend not to go for F2. The traits can be unpredictable, and no responsible breeder would breed two F1 Labradoodles to produce a puppy with random characteristics. Regardless of which puppy you pick, remember to get all the details about their ancestors. F1 and F1b are usually thought to be decent choices when it comes to bringing a Labradoodle home. You can even look at F2b If you want some specific traits. Always make sure that you get your Labradoodle from an experienced, reputable breeder. There are lots of irresponsible breeders who only want to make money. F1 Labradoodle puppies. Today we share a complete introduction to the F1 Labradoodle. This Labradoodle puppy is playing in a way that only a puppy can. What does f1 Labradoodle mean? Labradoodles are a cultural phenomenon. The first intentional Lab and Poodle mix dogs were bred in the s as low shedding candidates for service work. At that time, mixed breed dogs were regarded with disdain by many people. And the rest, as they say, is history. Now almost everyone is familiar with what a Labradoodle is, and they have paved the way for dozens of other designer dogs too. But fewer people are acquainted with the filial numbering system for mixed breed dogs. Put simply, an f1 generation Labradoodle has one pedigree Labrador parent, and one pedigree Poodle parent. The number 1 describes how many generations removed a puppy is from their closest purebred ancestor. F1 Labradoodles are one generation apart from a purebred dog. F1 vs F2 Labradoodle Puppies? Breeders usually specify that their litter is an f1 generation in order to distinguish it from different filial generations. F2 Labradoodles have two F1 Labradoodle parents. Their most recent pedigree ancestors are now their grandparents — two generations away. The physical and behavioral traits of f2 dogs are harder to predict. This is because in the confines of a pedigree population, we usually have a good idea of what genes Labs and Poodles may be carrying but not expressing, and how those genes might affect F1 Labradoodles. But the unexpressed genes in an F1 Labradoodle are an unknown quantity. Did they come from the Lab or the Poodle parent? Will they be expressed in the F2 generation? Who knows? And finally, multigen Labradoodles are several generations removed from their most recent pedigree ancestor on one or both sides. What is a standard f1 Labradoodle? This describes the size of their Poodle parent. Poodles come in three sizes: Standard, Miniature and Toy. What does an F1 Labradoodle look like? Their coat is usually kept at a single length all over, known as a puppy clip. Furthermore, lots of owners report f1 Labradoodle coat changes as their puppy grows up. Firstly, the length, softness, and texture can change when their adult coat replaces their puppy coat. This process starts at about 6 months old, and can take several weeks or even months. Secondly, their color can change over time if they inherit the progressive greying gene from their Poodle parent. Labrador Poodle mix dogs can have a tall and leggy silhouette like a Poodle. Or be more long and sturdy-looking like a Labrador. Labradoodle dogs have floppy, v-shaped ears because both of their parents do. But their muzzle can be wider or narrower depending on whether they take after a Labrador or a Poodle more. F1 Labradoodle Size? Th adult size of a Poodle Lab mix dog depends upon things like: whether their Poodle parent was standard or miniature sized whether their Labrador parent came from working or show lines their sex and individual variation. In both Labs and Standard Poodles, male dogs are frequently bigger than females, so the same is true of a standard f1 Labradoodle. Females typically reach between 40 and 70lbs, and males weigh 60 to 80lbs. Working type Labs are usually leaner and lighter, whilst show Labs are usually stockier and heavier — and they can pass this onto their puppies. Miniature f1 Labradoodle size is much harder to predict. Male and female Miniature Poodles both weigh 10 to 15lbs. So most mini f1 Labradoodles will weigh between 30 and 45lbs, but outliers can weigh much more or much less! Breeding f1b mini Labradoodle litters with one Miniature f1 Labradoodle parent and one Miniature Poodle parent is a popular way of producing Lab and Poodle mix dogs which are consistently small. Do f1 Labradoodles shed? This means most f1 Labradoodles shed significantly less than a purebred Lab. But, this is not guaranteed, and exactly how much less they shed does vary. Moreover, a non-shedding coat does not mean that a Labradoodle mix or even a purebred Poodle for that matter is hypoallergenic. Training and exercising f1 Labradoodles Labradors and Poodles are both lively, energetic and intelligent dogs. In fact, they both started out as working gundogs, bred to spend long and physically arduous days retrieving shot waterfowl and returning it to their handler. Since a lot of those unlucky birds fell in water, Labs and Poodles were also favored by duck hunters for their natural love of swimming. With this heritage, Labradoodles are likely to pick up new commands quickly and easily, especially if their Labrador parent came from working lines. They benefit from activities like gundog training, agility, or canine freestyle to stretch their mental muscles as well as their physical ones. Speaking of physical muscle, Labradoodle dogs need at least 2 hours of outdoor activity every day, which can including walking on or off leash, or swimming. F1 Labradoodle health Just like everything else, first generation Labradoodle health is a mixed inheritance from both of their parents. Labradors and Poodles share a genetic predisposition to some health problems, such as hip dysplasia and elbow dysplasia. But they also both carry some recessive genetic conditions that the other does not. This is significant to Labradoodles because recessive diseases only affect puppies who inherit the faulty genes that cause them from both parents. So mixed breed dogs tend to be protected, if only one parent breed carries the faulty gene. Examples of recessive genetic diseases in Labs and Poodles that f1 Labradoodles are usually protected from include exercise induced collapse, and sebaceous adenitis. F1 Labradoodles are also susceptible to the acquired i. You can protect your dog from these by making smart lifestyle choices, such as measuring food out accurately, and drying their ears after they go swimming. Labradors and Standard Poodles typically live for approximately 12 years, so a standard F1 Labradoodle will be about the same. On average, mixed breed dogs live for 2 years longer than pedigree dogs, thanks to factors like the protection from some hereditary diseases described above. Miniature Poodles live nearly 14 years on average. This extra life expectancy might also be seen in mini f1 and mini f1b Labradoodle dogs. Are f1 Labradoodles good pets? Labradoodles have taken the world by storm, because they have the potential to be fantastic pets in the right households. Labs and Poodles are both affectionate with their human family, and patient with younger family members. However, the Poodle tends to be less interested in unfamiliar people and dogs than the Labrador, and an f1 Labradoodle could go one way or the other. Good breeders will have lots of questions about you, your household, your lifestyle, and what you expect life with a Labradoodle to be like. Finally, good breeders also have a waiting list, so expect to wait a while for your puppy to be ready. The letter and number F1 signify that a puppy is a first generation Labradoodle. What is an F1 Labradoodle? And the number after it tells you many generations a dog is removed from their closest purebred ancestor. An F1 Labradoodle is one generation removed from their nearest purebred ancestors — their parents. Predicting F1 Labradoodle Qualities Whenever two different dog breeds are crossed, the genetic inheritance of their puppies can vary significantly. So some puppies will look and act more like a Lab, while others will be the spitting image of the Poodle, or they could be a mix of both parents. For example, most people associate the Labradoodle with the low-shedding, curly Poodle coat. You never know exactly what the puppies will grow up to be like. There can even be big differences between puppies from the same litter! The good news is that both the Lab and the Poodle have a lot to recommend them. These sociable canines bond with everyone, including other pets. Despite their easygoing personality, Labs are high-energy dogs that need lots of exercise. They were originally bred as waterdogs, helping hunters catch and retrieve waterfowl. Labradors have a short, dense double-coat that comes in black, yellow, or chocolate. Adults will stand from .In reality Poodles are elegant, smart, versatile and athletic. While some Poodles can be a bit aloof with strangers, owners will tell you that they are very loyal, affection pets. In addition to Standard Poodles who typically stand about 24 inches and can weigh from 40 to 70 pounds, there are two other types of Poodle. The Miniature Poodle is under 15 inches, and the Toy Poodle under 10 inches. These dogs are all famous for their curly, low-shedding coat that comes in a wide array of colors and markings. F1 Labradoodle Appearance As we know, Labradoodles can inherit physical characteristics of either parent breed, or they can be a mix between the two. Standard Labradoodles are usually medium to large dogs, standing from 21 to 24 inches and weighing in the 50 to 65 pound range. But some outliers may stay smaller, or grow even bigger. Especially if they had particularly small or large parents. There are 3 different coat texture possibilities. F1 Labradoodle Temperament Labradoodles are prized for their good-natured, playful temperaments. These friendly dogs love to be around people and also take to other pets. Ideally, they find a home with an active family, because this high-spirited canine needs regular walks and playtime. However, any dog, mixed breed or purebred is an individual with their own unique character. Some of this is due to parentage, but puppies also need to be properly trained and socialized from an early age. This will ensure they know how to behave in any situation. Luckily, Labradoodles inherit brains from both sides of the family tree and both parents share an enthusiasm and aptitude for training. Are F1 Labradoodles Healthier than their Parents? On the one hand, inbreeding and overuse of popular sires has increased inherited defects in purebred dogs. However, this is a statistical average, meaning some Labradoodles still inherit the genetic conditions of their parents. The role of breeders As one of the first designer dogs, Labradoodles have played a starring role in the surge of enthusiasm for mixed breeding. Purebred enthusiasts argue that crossbreeding promotes unethical breeding practices. Because Labradoodles are popular, they are vulnerable to being exploited by puppy farmers and bad breeders. But the same is equally true of popular pedigree dogs. Unscrupulous breeders care nothing for the welfare of animals, and breed without regard to health or welfare, creating dogs that have terrible temperaments and an overabundance of health problems. F1 Labradoodle Health There are some health conditions that both Labs and Poodles are prone to, which means Labradoodles are as well. Hip dysplasia occurs when the ball and socket of the hip joint do not grow at the same pace. This deformity causes the joint to deteriorate over time and can lead to painful arthritis. Both breeds are also at risk for eye disorders, including progressive retinal atrophy PRA , a serious condition that begins with not being able to see at night and leads to blindness. Only purchase an F1 Labradoodle puppy from a breeder who has secured health tests for these conditions, for both parents. This is a life-threatening condition that affects larger dog breeds, and especially deep chested breeds like the Poodle. To protect your dogs against this, learn the symptoms, and how to protect against it through lifestyle choices. What is an F2 Labradoodle? It means both parents were F1 Labradoodles. Their closest purebred parent is two generations removed, i. The exact genetic inheritance of F2 Labradoodles is even harder to predict. So you may be wondering just how breeders can create more consistent litters. What is an F1b Labradoodle? Usually a Poodle, since the goal is typically to increase the odds of a non-shedding coat. In a Poodle-ish way! Is an F1 Labradoodle Right for Me? Due to being first generation, F1 Labradoodles can be variable depending upon whether they take after the Lab or the Poodle. Either of the parent breeds is intelligent, playful, and ideal for active families. What do you think of the F1 Labradoodle? Let us know in the comments box down below! References and Further Reading. Your spouse wants a dog that looks like a dog, not a small stuffed toy. Perhaps you want something more like a designer dog. The affable and adorable Australian Labradoodle dog is known not only for its personality and trainability, but especially for its coat, which can be easy to keep clean and sheds far less than other dogs. Most people know that the Australian Labradoodles hardly ever shed. That means your house cleaning routine just got easier, and the likelihood that you or your family will react to dog allergens is significantly reduced. You have two options: First, you can purchase a puppy to raise with your family. Of course, you can rescue a Doodle for less. The only problem is that the rescue may come with a host of issues you are not ready or willing to deal with, including everything from physical challenges to questionable emotional stability. How big were they? How healthy will your dog be? What kind of coats did they have? What kind of coat will your dog have? Will the dog shed? Before you start calling breeders and purchase the first brown-eyed pup you find, you should know that not all Labradoodles are created equal. First, there are two types of Labradoodle — the American Labradoodle, which is considered a hybrid dog, and the Australian Labradoodle, which is considered a purebred. Our focus is on the purebred Doodle, the Australian Labradoodle. The purebred Labradoodle from Australia is a cross between a purebred Labrador Retriever and a purebred Standard Poodle. Do you really need to understand the different generations of Australian Labradoodles? The resulting litter is expected to have the best characteristics of both parents, including better health. This generation of pups, however, could still present with health issues specific to their parents. Like the Standard Poodles and Labrador Retrievers, your puppy could develop hip dysplasia as it grows older. It could also have some of the eye problems Poodles are known for. Conscientious breeders are aware of these possible challenges, and so they health test their dogs to make sure they are not perpetuating physical weaknesses; breeders want to produce the healthiest offspring possible. The characteristic that makes Labradoodles desirable is their coats. Some offspring may look more like the Labrador Retriever, with hairlike coats, and some may be more similar to the Poodle, with tight curls. Pups from the F1 Generation are not recommended for people wanting a dog with fewer allergens and less shedding. The F1 Generation pups are most low maintenance Labradoodles. Other than that, grooming your F1 Labradoodle is simple and easy. That means that an F1 dog has been bred to a purebred dog, either a Labrador Retriever or a Poodle. The purpose behind backcross breeding is to enhance the characteristics of one purebred dog or the other. Breeders aim for the hypoallergenic wool and fleece coats. This is more similar to the coat for which Poodles are known. Theses dogs shed minimally, produce little dander, and make great canine companions. In the F2 Generation, your pup could have any type of coat — fleece, wool or hair, and it could be straight, wavy or curly. Unfortunately, you may experience more shedding than you had hoped for, so the way to correct this deficiency is through crossback breeding once again. The F2B dog that has been mated to a Poodle will have the soft, curly coat so coveted by Australian Labradoodle owners. This coat, which will be fleece or wool, is much softer to the touch, and it feels thicker, too. As you might expect, these dogs share equal parts of Labrador Retriever and Poodle. The offspring of these matings is the famed F3B Generation that saavy breeders and owners look for. These are the nearly hypoallergenic dogs that pet lovers adore. The most common choice for backcrossing is the Poodle, obviously for its coat. The dogs are rarely crossed back to a Labrador Retriever. These multigenerational dogs develop great coats of curly fleece. They shed very little, and they are perfect for those people who have allergies. Breeding beyond the F3B produces multi-generational litters of puppies , and these dogs are highly coveted because of their consistency in health, form and coat. They always look predictably like their parents. Opt for a dog from the F3B Generation, and you have less chance of having a throwback pup, which means a dog that looks more like its original purebred parent from several generations ago than the cute and hypoallergenic Labradoodle you were hoping for. Dogs from the F3B Generation will cost more, but in return, you get a designer dog that will be healthy and as hypoallergenic as a dog can be. The multi-generational Australian Labradoodle will be the smart family companion that will be funny, lovable, easy to train — just the kind of canine companion kids should grow up with. I went to meet Mike to talk about an upcoming litter and Bailey was sitting by herself. I pretty much changed my mind and wanted her immediately. She was introduced to a 6 year old cocker spaniel with and IVDD condition and they became best friends. Great Temperament, Incredibly smart and absolutely beautiful addition to my family. Mike has been following up since I got her checking to see if I had any issues. His training packet was detailed and if you follow the crate training and feeding regiment you will have no problems. Angelica I brought home an F2 labradoodle from here. My pups has already learned several commands within a few weeks of having him. The breeder has plenty of space for the pups and you can tell that there is a lot of care put into the environment. My dog has a great temperament and deals with people well. Upon the first meeting my pups was excited to greet people you can tell he had been socialized well. Mike does well with communication and answers any questions. Highly recommended! Javier Sanchez Got my black lab from Mike trained. He is very good and is comfortable with a crate, walking and great temperament. Overall an awesome dog from a great breeder! Maura Eaton My 12 year old son did all the research on Mike and his company. He had 5 star reviews across the board. Once we saw the picture of Zoey, a Chocolate Labradoodle, we knew we had to meet her. Mike's business is clean, the dogs are all loved by him and well trained. Zoey was Stage 1 trained. This is my first dog as an adult and Mike was excellent in providing advice and recommendations. After we adopted Zoey, Mike would periodically check-in on how Zoey was adjusting to her new family and home. As you can see in the pictures, she is very happy. Mike knew her personality well - smart, sweet and social. A perfect fit and addition to our family. He worked on training with the puppy before we brought him home, which was a big help in the adjustment! I would recommend Mike to anyone looking for a labradoodle puppy. Our puppy has been the best addition to our family and we have enjoyed working with Mike. John Schmadeke We were looking for a labradoodle puppy from a reputable and experienced breeder. Mike was super helpful, and we really appreciated that he cared so much about things like genetics and DNA testing for the dogs. Mike has always been available to answer our questions and to give advice. Tom Riniker We found Mike to be very professional, knowledgeable, and helpful when we purchased a puppy from him. His kennels are clean and organized, and his puppies are well cared for. He really loves his career and it shows! He has followed up with us on numerous occasions regarding the health and well-being of our puppy, and I always know I can reach him if I have questions. Thanks for everything, Mike! Yunhua Chen I have bought a stage 2 F1 labradoodle from Mike. His name is Zen, and just like his name, he is a well-behaved and well-trained little man. He only cried about 15 - 30 minutes during the first few nights and later he was sound asleep. I highly recommend Mike as a breeder because not only he deeply cares about the dogs, but also he has the expertise to make the dog the perfect match for you. Michelle Balchunas Mike was absolutely wonderful to deal with and very helpful with adding a new puppy to our family. If you are looking for a lab to add to your family we would highly recommend working with Mike. Charles Arnold Mike was a great help with our new puppy, Archie. Great experience… and a great dog. Junie is gentle, kind and very loving. She's also extremely athletic and smart. Working with Mike was a very smooth process and his "dog siting" service has proved helpful as I do travel on occasion. Having someone I could trust to care for Junie is super helpful. Mike James I recently had the fortunate privilege of working with Mike to find my next pup. For multiple reasons, the breed is perfect for me - the temperament, lifestyle often on the water , and hypoallergenic fits a tough lifestyle. I without hesitation recommend you work with Mike if you are looking for an amazing pup and great support network. Charlie is so gentle. He was just outside getting petted by his fan club, the neighbors. He licks. I got him the week of July 4th he was outside during that noise. He looks at noise. One of his other puppies was the same way, gentle. Day one he knew the trail through the woods back to our house. Charlie is a beautiful Chocolate lab with the softest hair. I got him at 16 weeks. You have no idea how helpful that is. Of course you want a healthy dog. Took the shots like a champ. The Vet remarked how firm his joints were. Yes he lets you brush his teeth! He goes to the door when he has to go. Another reason I wanted a 16 week pup. Peanut butter to continue gentle licks on my fingers. He always gets small chicken or liver for COME. You should see him come. Is Charlie gentle because some hunting dogs have a gentle mouth or is he gentle because Mike treated him right? Oh do exactly as Mike says on the take home instructions, he knows his dogs! Highly recommend! We brought our pup home with all the documentation of his superior genetics. Mike also sends several handouts which help prepare you for puppy ownership and ensure a smooth transition for your pup to his new home! In addition to his exceptional breeding he is exceptionally well-trained. We opted for a stage 2 puppy and not only does he sit, lay down, stay, he has an incredibly calm demeanor and his additional exposure to other dogs was also incredible. He is so well-tempered and well-behaved due to his additional training. We are so happy and in love with our sweet boy! Brent Viditz-Ward We were looking for a chocolate lab puppy for a long time from a reputable breeder and our experience with Mike was wonderful. He took time to get to know us and make sure that the dog was going to a good home and is always available to answer questions, give advice, etc. I highly recommend Mike and his puppies! M Fowkes Mike is a fantastic breeder. We got an F1 puppy from Mike. She is a sweet beautiful girl. Before she was born Mike knew what the puppies would look like generally, and was really easy to communicate with. He is very responsive when I had a lot of questions. He is like that even now that my puppy is 4 months old…available to answer questions and be supportive. Josie Palma-Aurelio We stumbled on this website when we were looking for our next fur baby. All the reviews speak truthful about Mike. He calls us to check on Nala for updates and gives us pointers on how to take care of her. Nala is such a lovable puppy and we are so happy to have her. We highly recommend! Juan Tellez Mike was a great helping my family and puppy get adjusted to our home. You can tell Mike has a lot of dedication and love towards his dogs. Snoop has been a great addition to our family! We are first time pet owners and Mike handheld us through the entire adoption process. His reference material, responsiveness and his genuine care for the puppies has helped us navigate the critical period of 12 weeks smoothly. The puppy is super smart outwitted me in a game of hide n seek when he was 10 weeks old! He is a bundle of joy! We are first time pet owners and had a lot of questions! He is always enthusiastic in answering any questions we have and supporting us before and after getting the pup! He cares about his dogs and pups and it shows in the research he has done and the knowledge he has about them! He has a lot of information on his website about the breed, food, toys and snacks! He also gives a couple of handouts when we book a pup with him and some when we take them home! Those helped a lot in the preparation for our pup! When you take them home, he also gives you details about the breed, vaccination records, and DNA testing done for the litter! Our girl, Shuri, is very energetic and curious! She does really well when we train her and has already learnt so much! For anyone looking for a labradoodle, Mike is the best! Jocelyn I highly recommend Mike. We are first time dog owners and he made the process so easy for us. Our labradoodle has made an excellent addition to our family! Can live in an apartment if given enough exercise daily, especially Mini F1 Labradoodles. F1 Labradoodles do not shed much at all. They are classified as as a light to non-shedding breed. One of the reasons why the Poodle was originally crossed with the Labrador Retriever was to reduce the heavy shedding trait of the Labrador Retriever whilst retaining its good nature and temperament. The best way to reduce the amount that your dog sheds is to regularly brush them. Slicker brushes are great for dogs with single coats and deshedding tools are great for dogs with double coats. Are F1 Labradoodles Hypoallergenic? Yes, F1 Labradoodles are considered to be hypoallergenic. That being said, there are other generations of Labradoodle that are more hypoallergenic than the F1 generation e. Very curly coats are generally seen in cross back generations such as F1b or F1bb Labradoodles as they have a higher percentage of Poodle genes. You can read our full Straight Coat Labradoodle guide here. They may have small white patches over their body like on their chest or paws however these as technically Black and White Labradoodles. F1 Chocolate Labradoodle F1 Chocolate Labradoodles feature a solid brown coat that can range from a very light to a rich brown tone. Their noses and eyes are brown. They have black or brown noses and dark colored eyes. F1 White Labradoodles are also known as Chalk Labradoodles as their coat color is a very similar shade to chalk. Their coats can be anywhere from a reddish cream to a rusty brown color. They have black noses and dark brown eyes. F1 Labradoodles with lighter red coats are usually called Apricot Labradoodles. Most of the time the secondary color is black, apricot, red or cream. Some popular ones include: Teddy Bear Cut.

Two young golden retriever brothers Harry Winston and Louis Vuitton got the joy of experiencing their first big snow. The canines, who live with their owners Lisa and Rusty Hanafin in New York, were recently given the opportunity to explore their backyard after a snowstorm that left behind over 3 feet of the white stuff, according to Daily Mail. Luckily, the Hanafins thought to record their dogs' first snow day. In the clip, Rusty can be seen opening the door out to the yard, while the two pups stand inside and marvel at all the snow. After a few paws at the snow and a little encouragement from their owners, the dog duo decides to jump in. Tennessee Dog Celebrates 20th Birthday as Oldest Golden Retriever in History Even though the pooches practically disappear under the snow, the golden retrievers seem to enjoy the new twist to outdoor playtime. The video concludes with Harry and Louis happily jumping and play-fighting in the snow. The dogs allegedly loved the change in weather so much, that they had to be lured back inside with hot dogs. Golden Retrievers absolutely love playing in the snow! So, how long can a Golden Retriever play in the snow before it becomes unsafe? A Golden Retriever should only play in the snow for 30 minutes at a time. Any longer than that, and you run the risk of your dog getting too cold, and suffering from frostbite. This article may contain affiliate links and loyalgoldens may earn a commission if a purchase is made. Unlock your goldens natural intelligence and see just how quickly problem behaviors disappear. This is the best at home dog training I've ever used! Their warm fur coat certainly helps them tolerate some cold temperatures and stay warm for a while, but not for as long as you might think. Golden Retrievers love the experience of chasing snowballs and jumping in giant drifts of snow. But try to limit his time in these conditions to about thirty minutes at a time. This Golden Retriever puppy gets to play in the snow for the first time! Here are a few signs to look for that will tell you that your Golden Retriever is too cold: Shivering and shaking A lot of whining or barking Stillness or slowness while walking Limping or continuously lifting their paws off of the ground General discomfort or anxiety this is not a sign by itself, instead would be coupled with other signs Seeking warm places to go These signs and symptoms may not be an exhaustive list, but at least some of these signs will be apparent if your Golden is in the cold for too long. Your Golden Retriever is likely to be a little damp and maybe even icy after playing in the snow. Leaving your dog with damp or wet fur will keep him feeling chilly, even in the warm temperatures of your home. For perspective, think about how hard it can be for you to warm up when you have wet hair. Give him a heated dog bed. These innovative dog beds have plenty of safety features to avoid overheating your dog. They also have chew-resistant cords and are waterproof. Discover how to train your Golden Retriever by playing games : 21 games to play with your Golden that will make them smarter and better behaved! Winter Accessories for Golden Retrievers There are a few options that make winter weather more tolerable for your Golden Retriever. First, you can get your dog a warm jacket. It should also be compatible with the leash or harness that you already use. While a jacket might not be necessary for a healthy adult dog, a senior dog or a Golden Retriever puppy will be more susceptible to cold temperatures. Second, you can get your dog booties. Third, apply some paw butter. Alternatives to Outdoor Play For Your Golden Retriever During the colder months, your Golden Retriever will, of course, have to go outside to go to the bathroom, but it might be best to avoid frigid temperatures as much as possible. There are tons of ways you and your dog can still have fun inside. Invite another puppy friend over to play with your Golden Retriever. Playing with other dogs is an excellent way for your pup to exercise and practice critical social skills. Play fetch. Even in medium-sized apartments , your dog can get some exercise by chasing a ball or toy around. Best of all, Golden Retrievers love to play fetch. Give him brain teasers. These games are great for mental stimulation, which can tire your Golden Retriever out almost as fast as exercise. This is an interactive treat puzzle toy that will keep your dog entertained. These are especially good toys for food-motivated dogs like a Golden Retriever. If your dog really wants to play out in the snow, let him play for a bit when he goes out to use the bathroom, but keep playtime limited to a few minutes before calling him back inside. Final Thoughts Golden Retrievers are amazing pets, always doing their best to make you happy. As pet owners, we want to do our best to reciprocate their love and affection. One way to do that is to ensure that their safety is your top priority during cold and snowy weather. Even though your dog cannot tell you when he is too cold, you now know all of the warning signs. Playing in the snow is perfectly safe for short periods of time about 30 minutes , but keep an eye out for those symptoms. Otherwise, consider getting special outdoor apparel or avoiding the cold temperatures altogether. Pin on Pinterest Snowfalls can be a beautiful sight to see. There is nothing cuter than puppies enjoying snow for the first time in their lives. In a viral video, a little Golden Retriever named Annie goes outside and ventures out into the cold. Just like a little kid, the only thing she can think of is to run right through it and have fun. The two pups are seen running around, rolling in the snow, and having a blast. Watch cute Golden Retrievers playing in the snow… YouTube Watching the puppies play in the snow is a reminder of the joy and innocence that animals can bring into our lives. In addition to being adorable, videos of puppies playing in the snow can also serve as a reminder to take some time to enjoy the simple things in life. The pure joy that Annie exhibits in the video is a reminder to enjoy the simple joys of life. No matter how fast life gets, we should all take some time to enjoy the simple things in life. Please share this cute video of a Golden Retriever puppy playing in the snow for the first time with your friends and family.

How does it feel to be a new puppy parent? You must be chuffed. Take a look at these first few articles. All the ingredients you need for a happy home. But for now, beside your bed is the best place for your puppy to sleep — it will help them feel safe. Puppies like their crates rather cave-like; we suggest covering it with a blanket to block out light, but keep the front open so that they can see outwards. Make sure to make it snug inside with something like a vet bed or a blanket, or why not take it up a notch with a heat pad or hot water bottle to recreate the feeling of their mother. Nothing feels more comforting than that. Before you head to bed, take your puppy out for one last round of loo-going. Set your bedtime at a later time too — midnight sounds about right. Come back calmly, and place your puppy in the crate and turn out the light. Stuff you should know about Sleep Training your Labrador Your puppy will wake up several times in the night and will need the bathroom at least once! Be prepared for not-so-deep sleeps and tired mornings — just for the first few weeks. Having them sleep next to you is only temporary. Consistency is key! As for you, full nights of sleep will start getting closer and closer. Alone Training How can I teach my Labrador puppy to be ok on their own? Start by feeding your puppy in their crate during meal times. If they seem worried by you leaving, stay in view, and just pop right outside their confinement area. Keep it short and sweet: No need to stay away for long, 60 seconds tops will do for now. Repeat: Do this at least once a day to make progress go steady and smoothly. Socialization Exercises To Do this week Letting your Labrador puppy explore the yard Besides the gnomes and questionable yard furniture you may have, letting your puppy explore your own yard is a great and safe way to start showing them the sounds, lights and wonders of the outside world. Exploring different surfaces exercise Make sure that the surfaces you use are safe — nothing too crazy just yet. Gather surfaces such as An oven tray with a small layer of water A piece of astro turf A carpet tile A large piece of tin foil, cardboard or something crinkly PRO TIP: Set up for this exercise in the room your puppy spends most of their time in — it will help them to feel safe and confident. Pop the surfaces out safely on the floor and allow your puppy to investigate them. Nobody has ever enjoyed walking on those. Remember to be patient! Lucky for you — teaching them their name is easy peasy. Say their name in a happy jolly tone and reward with a treat. Repeat five times, 5 and take a break. Practice this 2 or 3 times a day so they get the hang of it. Teach your puppy to sit Teaching your puppy how to sit is a popular one. The first two are far more common though. Keep using this word when they do the right thing, and then follow it up with a food reward. In puppy logic, stinky means yummy. How to do it Start at home; where there are no distractions. Just make sure to shut off Gogglebox in the background. Recall — How to teach our Labrador puppy to come back when called Your puppy already knows their name at this point, so this should be a walk in the park. How to do it Treats and a cheerful voice will be what works here. Do these exercises before meal times so your puppy is more motivated. Practice this 5 times a day and in 3 different places in your house and yard to get them used to coming to you in all settings. How to do it Show your puppy that you have their favorite toy, and start to get them excited about it. When they show interest, throw it a little bit away from you. They will likely follow it and pick it up. If they do, encourage them back to you with your voice, so remember to sound happy! Swap the toy for a treat or another toy and do the process again. Repeat this about 5 times. Instead create more distance and excitement sounds to get them to come to you — spaniels like to show off, so they will likely want to parade what they have! Always swap the toy for something when they have it, this could be a treat or another toy. Resource guarding occurs when we force puppies to give up items or snatch things out of their mouths. For breeds like Labradors who are designed to want to hold things in their mouths, this is pretty important! Resource guarding is when a dog protects a resource from being taken by someone else — dog or human. For some reason, there is a solid list of things puppies find irresistible: Socks. Umbilical cord training Throughout the rest of this guide I will be referring to each of these 4 methods and when you should or could be using them. Once used to using the paper or the pads, you slowly cut the area covered until they reliably use just a couple of sheets and never miss. You then slowly move the paper toward the outside where another set is placed and you begin to encourage your puppy to go outside only, before completely removing the papers inside. At this point they will have made the transition. A top tip when paper training is when you clean away soiled paper, you should hold one piece back and place it as a middle layer of the new papers. Puppy pads have a scent that attracts a puppy, paper does not. Effectiveness: On a scale of 1 to 5, I give it a 3. This is confusing and will make the learning process take longer. Best suited to: Either people who are going to have an indoor bathroom spot long-term, or people who will not use a crate for training yet cannot commit to constantly supervising their puppy when inside the home. Ease of use: On a scale of 1 to 5, definitely a 5. But it does result in more mistakes from your puppy until later in life. Equipment needed: Nothing but stacks of old newspapers! A very cost-effective method. Description: The method takes advantage of the fact dogs have a natural instinct not to soil the area where they eat and sleep. Key to this is making the crate just large enough to stand in, turn around easily and lay down stretched out but no bigger. The rest of the time you watch them and regularly take them outside to potty to teach them good habits. Best suited to: Everybody! This is because you will have to crate train your puppy before you can use a crate for house training which does take time and effort. Click here for my free and detailed guide to crate training your puppy. Equipment needed: A suitable crate. I have a guide to help you select the right size and type that you can read by clicking here. Effectiveness: On a scale of 1 to 5, I tentatively give it a 3. It could actually score higher or lower depending on how committed you are and how successful at supervising your puppy you are. Best suited to: People who are against any kind of confinement and can stay at home to watch their puppy all day every day. Mostly people who work from home and the retired. But this method also forms a part of every house training plan, whether you use other methods alongside or not. This is because when a puppy is free inside a home, they MUST be closely supervised to prevent any mistakes. Ease of use: On a scale of 1 to 5, I give it a 2. It scores low as it requires a lot of input from you as the owner. It is quite draining never being able to take your eye of your puppy. Equipment needed: None. Not a crate, newspapers, puppy pads or anything. The cheapest of all the methods…unless you put a price on your time. But it is highly effective. Description: This technique calls for you to tether your puppy to you by leash and have them follow you wherever you go when inside your home. You will notice and be able to intervene and correct every possible mistake, taking them outside every time they need to relieve themselves. Used correctly, the opportunity for your puppy to make mistakes is completely removed so every single time they need to visit their bathroom spot is a training opportunity you will take advantage of and no mistake goes uncorrected. Best suited to: People who spend all their time at home with their puppy and would also enjoy literally being tied to their pup all day. Further Info: for a detailed discussion of this technique, the benefits, downside, and many more tips, please see my article: Umbilical Cord House Training: What is It? How Does It Work? A Mix Of 3 Methods I use and recommend a mixture of crate training, constant supervision and paper training. I use constant supervision extensively because when a puppy is outside of the crate you have to watch them diligently to avoid puppy mistakes. Admittedly this is somewhat going against my advice because I always recommend to avoid paper training if possible. It encourages or allows your puppy to toilet inside the home, before then training them not to do so. This is confusing to your puppy and harmful to our house training efforts. But even though I recommend against it, using paper training ever so occasionally as a fall back plan works well for me. Most dogs love being outside and will use any excuse to get out there and stay there. You do this by using a cue word and walking them on leash to their potty spot, not allowing them to do anything else and if they do not potty, taking them back inside and trying again in a few minutes. Because a full bladder or bowel is uncomfortable, dogs are happy to relieve themselves, but some may try to hold it if they think they can get to stay outside and sniff around a while. If people use different words, your dog will get confused. This will slowly teach them the command. And this is fine for the first couple of weeks while they have no bladder control and will perform their business very quickly. And some dogs even learn to actively hold their bladder just so they can stay outside to explore for longer. Before you can do this you need to first get your puppy used to wearing a collar and leash. Have You Got Everything Prepared? A Check-list Before You Start Like everything in life, house training runs smoother if you have everything ready before you start, hopefully before you even bring your puppy home. Have you: Decided on and marked out a suitable bathroom spot? Chosen and purchased a suitable high-quality nutritious food? Figured out the times of day you will feed your puppy? Got a collar and leash? Put in place a leash training plan? Bought a suitable crate and set it up in a suitable place? Bought bedding for the crate? Bought chew toys to occupy your puppy in the crate? Decided on the commands you will use if any? Purchased either baby gates, a pet barrier or an exercise pen for longer term confinement? Sourced stacks of newspapers or puppy pads to use in the long-term confinement area? Bought some small but highly tasty training treats to use as a reward? Bought specialized pet stain removing and odor neutralizing cleaning products? Bought a UV light to find hidden spots of urine that must be removed to prevent repeat accidents? Sat and discussed with every member of your household your finalized plans so everybody has the same info? Successful House Training Is All About Schedules And Routine Dogs thrive when living to schedules and routine, doing best when they have set times for eating, going to toilet, exercise, training and play. But because the passage of food through their digestive system stays roughly the same, if you feed your puppy at the same times every day they will need to defecate at roughly the same times every day. This results in fewer mistakes, more opportunities to praise your puppy for going in the right place and so speeds up their learning. Depending on their age a puppy will need to poop 3 to 6 times a day, and wee many more times than that. Can these times be predicted? Mostly they can. When a puppy needs to potty depends on when they last ate, drank and their recent activities. Mostly they need to go: First thing in the morning The instant they wake up from a nap at any time of the day Just before going to bed Within a few minutes of eating or drinking Immediately after a play session Immediately after any excitement But a puppy also needs to go many times per day regardless of recent activities, so you should also take your puppy to their bathroom spot on a consistent schedule such as the following: At 8 weeks old — every 30 mins. At 10 weeks old — every 45 mins. At 12 weeks old — every 1 to 1. At 16 weeks old — every 2 hours. At 20 weeks old — every 3 hours. Some will need to wee within 2 minutes of drinking, others after 20 minutes. Some will need a bathroom break within 2 minutes of waking, others 15 minutes later. You have to determine your puppies own natural tendencies and create a schedule to suit. To achieve this, you need to follow this 5 step process: Feed them to a strict schedule. Decide on exercise, play and training times. Develop a schedule including feeding, exercise, play, training and all scheduled potty times. Use the information gathered in your diary to learn from any mistakes and adjust your schedule for the following week. The more you can stick to schedules and routines, the smoother and faster the process will be. But you can stray from the path when necessary and still find success, it will just take a little longer. You should feed your puppy 3 times a day when 12 to 26 weeks old. From 26 weeks old and onwards, feed your puppy just two times a day For 2 meals a day you need to space them out 8 to 12 hours apart. What works for me is shortly after I get up at and when we have our evening meal between PM and PM. Availability Of Water: You should make sure fresh water is always available but because drinking too much or too little can be a sign of health problems, you do need to monitor their water intake. Physical activity often leads to a puppy needing to potty very soon after. So to encourage predictable potty times for your puppy, you want to schedule their exercise and play. Deciding when to exercise, train and play with your puppy is entirely up to you. You should fit it around your lifestyle and commitments, but try to make it the same times each day if you can. Enter all the following details into a single column in an excel spreadsheet, or write them down as a day schedule with a pen and paper: When you wake and add an instant bathroom break before you do ANYTHING for yourself! Enter the times you will play with, train and exercise your puppy. Enter a scheduled visit to the bathroom spot after each of the activities listed in points 1 to 3. Add scheduled bathroom visits after any length of time longer than your puppy should be expected to hold it according to their age. Write in scheduled sleeps for your puppy, place them in the crate or confinement area. After writing down this schedule, tick off each task as you go through the day with your puppy. This way you will always know what needs to be done and when, and there will be no confusion about whether someone else in the house fed, exercised or took the puppy to the loo. I discuss this further in step 5 below. You should be able to pick up on any patterns and adjust your own behavior to avoid mistakes in future. Was puppy left alone and peed in the living room while you made breakfast? Puppy should never be left alone unsupervised, learn from this mistake. Or maybe puppy peed in the crate after an hour? Learn from this mistake. Well done for watching them closely enough. So increase the frequency. Therefore you should stretch out the time between visits by 10 to 15 minutes for the following day. This is how you find out. And Now House Training is So Much Easier By writing out the schedule as in step 3, you should never forget to feed, train or take your puppy to potty. And by using the schedule as a diary as in step 5, you get feedback on how you and your puppy are performing, and are armed with the necessary info to make changes to your schedule over time. You, your puppy and their needs all stay in sync and house training becomes that much easier. Just make a spreadsheet in excel and print it out, or simply buy some lined paper. Keep it somewhere you can always see and know where it is, alongside a pen or pencil and write entries in it as you watch your puppy throughout the day. After this, continuing with a diary every day is the best advice, although keeping one for 3 consecutive days each week will be sufficient for you to pick up on any changes as they mature. Once your puppy is 5 to 6 months old, they will have sufficient bladder control and experience to make a schedule and diary unnecessary. Just make sure they get access to the outside at least once every 3 hours and all will be fine. Extending The Time Between Toilet Breaks I discussed earlier how a puppy will need regular visits to their bathroom spot, something like every 30 minutes at 8 weeks old, every 45 minutes at 10 weeks old and so on. But every puppy is different and their progress in having longer time between needed toilet breaks will vary too. You do this because as a puppy grows, the size of their bowel and bladder increases, so they will be able to hold more for longer and you want to take advantage of this. This is also teaching them necessary bladder and bowel control. Use your cue word before you take them: By using your chosen cue word every time before you take them to potty, your puppy will learn what the trip is about and what they must do. This eventually leads to faster results as they know what is expected of them. Lead your puppy to the bathroom spot on leash: This gives you the ability to keep your puppy at the bathroom spot and prevent them wandering off, getting distracted and forgetting what they are there for. Make sure you stay with them at their bathroom spot: If you have them on leash, then of course you will be. When they start to go, say your chosen cue word in a soft warm voice. Mix up the reward between play, time off leash and a food reward to keep them guessing, but keep the food rewards to a minimum as what goes in must come out and random feeding promotes random elimination times! Many people pop out, stand for 1 minute and then come back in. Some people recommend to stay out there for 10, 15, 20 minutes, whatever it takes until they go, then praise profusely when they do. I recommend you give them 3 to 5 minutes, saying your cue word every 30 seconds or so but otherwise standing silently still just holding their leash so they cannot wander off. Take them back to their bathroom spot in 10 minutes or so. If using a crate for house training: Pop them back in the crate and leave them for 10 minutes. Then take them back to their bathroom spot. Take them to their bathroom spot after 10 minutes. If not, take them away from their bathroom spot and watch them for 10 minutes before returning them to their bathroom spot. And if crate training, do not leave them in the crate too long else they may be forced to soil in there. Prevent this at all costs. Rinse and repeat the visits to and fro like this until they do potty, then follow the next sections advice. What You Should Do Between Scheduled Bathroom Breaks Between scheduled bathroom visits you should do two things: Allow some supervised free time in your home, and use your chosen house training method. By free time I mean time outside of their crate, or off leash, or out of their confinement area. Time free to roam, explore and live life. When 10 weeks old they may need to toilet every 30 minutes, so they only get 5 to 10 minutes free time. When 12 weeks old, they may need to toilet every hour so they can get 35 to 40 minutes free time. You allow this free time because you are of course working toward a time when they will always be free and trusted unsupervised. To get there they need the experience, to get used to being free in your home and begin seeing it as a place they need to keep clean. They also need social interaction and life experiences. But what are the signs a puppy is about to potty? Heading toward, barking at or scratching the door to the outside. The minute you see any of these signs you should take your puppy to their bathroom spot immediately. There may well be some false alarms, but better safe than sorry. Carefully watch them and you should soon notice what body language means a wee or a poop is imminent. There will be recognizable signs. We do this because the time is fast approaching when mistakes are most likely to be made. If using constant supervision: Carry on as you are. Then at their scheduled potty time, attach a leash and lead them to their bathroom spot. If using a crate for house training: Encourage your puppy into their crate and close the door, leaving them there until their scheduled potty time and then release them, instantly attaching a leash and leading them to their bathroom spot. If using umbilical cord training: Attach a leash and tether your puppy to you, ready to react if they make moves to eliminate. Take them to their bathroom spot at the scheduled time. If paper training: Take your puppy to their confinement area where their papered bathroom spot is and supervise them, ready to intervene if they make moves to potty away from the paper. Not good when you need to be there to encourage them for doing it in the right place. If they do, you can pick them up and carry them, or take them by the collar and gently lead them to their bathroom spot, then encourage them to finish where they should. But to me this seems foolish. Instead of a little pile or puddle, you then have a long line of wee or poop from where you caught them all the way to the bathroom spot that you then have to deep clean instead. Then think how they were able to make such a mistake and tweak your plans so it cannot happen again. But any corrections or punishment now will be futile. House Training For Full Time Workers This advice applies not just to full-time workers , but also if you must occasionally leave your puppy home alone for a few hours. Most importantly, follow all the advice in this guide so far for the times that you are home. Supervise them, correct any mistakes, set feeding and elimination schedules and everything else I have advised. First of all, if like me you use a crate, you simply cannot leave your puppy in the crate for many hours. This is very unfair on your puppy and it will destroy the crates power as a house training tool if they lose the instinct to keep it clean. Secondly, please do your best to enlist the help of a family member, friend, neighbor or hire a dog walker to periodically pop in to visit your puppy, take them to their bathroom spot, give them some social interaction and so on. But I also freely admit to using paper training myself occasionally, for the unavoidable times I have to leave my puppy home alone for a few hours. If you have to leave your puppy home alone for any reason, usually because you work, then paper training in your absence is the only thing you can do. You then have two options available to you: Buy and use an exercise pen, or confine your puppy to a single, puppy-proofed room. As they get used to pottying on paper, reduce the area covered one sheet at a time until just a small area remains covered. Once you know your puppy can hold their bladder for longer than they have to be left alone, remove the paper altogether. By 16 to 20 weeks, they should be able to last the 3 or 4 hours max they will be left alone and somebody comes to exercise them and allow a bathroom break. Between 8 and 12 weeks when weeing seems spontaneous , my puppy spends a fair bit of time in there and I paper train them to use puppy pads. Our kitchen and dining room was separated by an arch where a door used to be, with tiled flooring, making it ideal. I used a baby gate across the arch between the kitchen and dining room, and initially covered the dining area with paper, over time reducing it to just two sheets with the puppy pad holder on top. The dining area is completely empty, with no furniture, nothing in there. Skirting boards, the corners of furniture items, anything within reach is a potential target for teeth and claws. My girlfriend works from home, we crate trained and we had no problem finding house sitters in an evening if we needed one, so we all but had things covered. But this is something you need to be mindful of. Whatever the reason, there just WILL be times you cannot supervise your puppy. The essence of house training is to prevent mistakes and praise your puppy heavily when they potty in the right place. If you cannot watch your puppy, the chances of them making a mistake go through the roof. So even if you choose to use a constant supervision method exclusively, you will still need to confine your puppy sometimes to a paper covered area just in case. I mean literally none at all. One minute they are trotting along, the next they are leaking. No warning signs for you, not even any warning signs for them. I recommend setting up an exercise pen with the entire area papered, or do as I do and confine them to a room with the entire area papered. Use this time to paper train them, to get them used to weeing on paper and gradually reduce the area because you will use this method if you ever have to leave them home alone during the next 4 or 5 months. They will sniff, circle and so on as I mentioned before. At this point you can now move on to using your chosen house training method. Start encouraging them to potty in the right place from the minute you get them home. So the good news is, even at 8 weeks they will be able to last 4 or so hours and you will only need to wake once during the night. Also, make sure to take them to their bathroom spot right before you go to bed so they can empty themselves. Then set an alarm for 4 hours after their bed time when you must get up and take them to their bathroom spot. No excuses, you simply must do this. If you find your puppy has soiled in this time, you should set the alarm for half an hour earlier the next night 3. After a few days of not having a night-time accident, set your alarm for 15 minutes later and increase the time by 15 minutes for each successful night they do not have an accident. If you find they make a mistake one night before you wake, set the alarm back half an hour, make sure they stay dry a few days and then increase 15 minutes nightly again. And by using this schedule, you strike a good balance between a couple of inevitable accidents while stretching out the time at a good pace to lasting a full night. If they soil their crate more than once in any given week, you may have to progress slower add 15 minutes every 2 or 3 days , or perhaps sleep them in a papered exercise pen or their confinement room. Maintaining their instinct to keep the crate clean is of utmost importance. What To Do At The Bathroom Spot At Night When you take them out at night, say your chosen cue word, take them straight to their bathroom spot, praise them gently when they finish their business but do not reward them with anything else. The last thing you want is to teach your puppy that during the night is a time for play or food treats! This will come back to haunt you in a big way and result in noisy sleepless nights. You want your puppy to learn that night-time is for sleeping and for nothing else. Do nothing else. Some will be able to last the whole night without a potty break at 10 weeks rarely , and some may not be able to at 15 weeks also rarely. But certainly by 16 weeks old your puppy will be able to last a 7 hour night without needing to potty if you do not feed them for 3 hours or provide water for 2 hours before bed time and allow them to empty themselves right before you lay down for the night. No Progress? If you are feeding, exercising, training and playing with your puppy to a schedule, and when you look at your diary there seems to be no pattern to the times they need to potty, you should seek the advice of your vet. Common ailments such as gastroenteritis, urinary tract infection and health issues affecting internal organs and the genitalia can lead to a dog needing to potty much more frequently, often leading to eliminating in the house. Again, seek the advice of your family vet. You cannot successfully house train a puppy who is ill because their bodily functions will be too unpredictable. But 6 to 7 months is the ball park figure to aim for. A single mistake in the home can cause a major setback. A puppy may not make a mistake for 2 weeks, then you give them too much freedom, they make a mistake and all of a sudden they are regularly trying to potty in the home again. Also, some puppies just seem to forget everything for a few days now and then while growing up, even after being perfect for a couple of weeks. Just stick to your plan and they WILL eventually get it. Conclusion With house training, the fewer mistakes you allow your puppy to make and the more they are rewarded for doing the right thing, the quicker they will learn and the faster you will find success. Because of this, the more effort you put in and the more time you spend with your puppy at the beginning — supervising to correct mistakes and taking them to their bathroom spot many times each day — the better. But there are many other things you can do to help yourself and your puppy to find success. This guide has provided you with all the theory, strategies, tips and tricks you will ever need to successfully house train your puppy as quickly and efficiently as possible, with the fewest mistakes along the way. Please see the entire series linked to below:. Print Potty train your puppy quickly Housebreaking is one of the least desirable tasks when adding a new puppy to your family. It is never fun but consider it a necessary task. You will never regret having a dog that knows your home is not a bathroom. When to start housebreaking Housebreaking should begin the day you bring your puppy home from the breeder. It is important to establish quickly that there is a right and wrong place for your puppy to go potty. How long does it take to house train a lab puppy? I wish I could give a definitive answer for this, but the truth is that every puppy is different. Most puppies can be completely house broke by the time they are months. But assume there will be a lot of ups and downs through the process. Some puppies learn very quickly and rarely have an accident. Others take more time to make the connection. Here are some things you can do to help the process go smoothly. Have the right attitude! Keep your attitude in check to help this process go quickly and smoothly. Have patience! As already stated, potty training can take some time. It may happen, but it is unlikely. Instead, plan for a long haul and then you will be more patient and understanding when mishaps happen. The products I recommend I believe are a good value or good investment for anyone working to train or maintain training on their retriever. When possible, I include links to the product. Some of these links may be Amazon or other affiliate links in which I am paid a small commission at no cost to you. All opinions and recommendations are my own. Step 1: Establish a place for your puppy to go potty To get started housebreaking your puppy, you must first establish a place where it is okay for your puppy to do his business. Find a place outside that is not too far from your home, but an area where you are not worried about killing the grass or trampling plants that are important to you. Consider this carefully, because once your puppy starts going potty in this area it will be exceedingly difficult to move or change the area. Once the scent is there, it is natural for dogs to continue going potty in the same area over and over. Do I have to potty train outside? In some areas of the country, winters can be very cold. Some new puppy owners wonder if it is too cold for their Labrador puppy to go outside to potty train during these times. The answer is no. Most Labs can easily be outside for a few minutes even during the coldest nights to go potty. A pee pad is a disposable, leak proof pad that is scented to attract your dog and encourage going potty on them. We highly discourage using pee pads because in the long run it is confusing to your dog. If you spend time teaching your puppy to NOT go potty inside your home and then flip-flop and begin letting them go inside your home on a pee pad, your dog will be confused. Besides, eventually you must retrain them to going outside, so the best policy is to never start letting inside be an option. Step 2: Establish a routine and schedule for your puppy Establishing a routine is the single most important step for housebreaking. The more consistent you are, the faster your puppy will learn to go outside for potty. This time will increase rapidly over the next few weeks, but that first week is going to take a lot of time and energy on your part to consistently let your puppy out on a schedule. To make being consistent easier, consider this: Set a timer When housebreaking puppies, we find that setting a timer is helpful. An hour flies by and you hardly realize it. For the first few days at least, set a timer and let your puppy out hourly, especially if your puppy is not in a crate. We will discuss that more in a bit. Timing is everything There are other times when you need to let your puppy outside. Immediately after eating or drinking your puppy should go outside. Eating and drinking will trigger a need to go potty, so to avoid accidents, take your puppy out every time they eat or drink. And if they drink a lot of water, you may have to take them out several times before they are back on schedule. Anything you can do to make going potty a routine will help your dog learn and associate that going outside is where I need to go to go potty. Use a command I know this sounds crazy but using a command can help your dog form an association between the command and going potty. At first this is meaningless to the puppy. And you cannot discipline your puppy for a potty accident in the house that you never saw happen. The solution for this is never let your puppy go unsupervised. This can be exhausting, that is why we suggest using a crate to help. The stern words must be said during the accident or immediately after to have any effect. Using a crate to house train your puppy First, while your puppy may not love his crate right away, if properly introduced and used consistently, Labs usually come to love their crates. As den animals, dogs will view their crate as a den where they can go to sleep or get away from the business of the home. Learn more about crate training your Labrador puppy here. When using a crate to housetrain your puppy, you first want to make sure that you have a very small crate. One that is just a little bigger than your puppy. This is particularly important because you do not want your puppy to be able to move around much in the crate. If they can move around, they can and often will go potty in the crate. So, start with a very small crate and get bigger crates as the puppy grows. Whatever you choose to use to block off the larger area, make sure that it is not something your puppy can chew on or ingest. You will still need to find a way to gradually increase the area that the puppy has access to, so I just find the multiple crate solution easier. You should still set a timer and take your puppy out on a regular basis, and you will want to schedule some time each day for the puppy to run around the house and play while supervised. Step 4: Using praise to speed the house breaking process You can help your puppy more quickly understand that going potty outside is the right thing to do by giving your puppy well-timed praise. But the praise must be well-timed. You should give the praise while your puppy is going potty outside or immediately after. Timing is very important! Lots of people get upset when the dog goes inside but fail to praise when the dog does the right thing. Not all dogs are the same. Some puppies will whine just before they go potty in the house, or whine at the door when they need to go. Some will hide somewhere you cannot see them and do their business there. Still others may scratch at the door. How long can a puppy hold it overnight? With young puppies, weeks old, you will need to get up several times a night to let them out. It can be helpful to limit the amount of water your puppy has access to close to bedtime. We usually aim for every 3 hours and then steadily increase the time as they get older. But each puppy is different. Final thoughts on how to house train your Labrador puppy Remember that housebreaking is a process. It rarely follows a straight line and more often there will periods of success and occasional mishaps. Stick with it and before long your puppy will understand that going potty in the house is not okay. Until next time, happy retrieving. How to housebreak your Labrador puppy. Learn to spot the signs Never punish your Lab after an accident Use potty pads as a temporary indoor alternative Recognize excitement urination Be aware of submissive urination Allow more freedom as your puppy improves The ultimate aim of housebreaking your puppy is to prevent accidents. Control His Environment When potty training your puppy, the first thing to do is to control his environment. Use a long leash and attach your pup to your waist, even when inside the house. This allows you to look out for warning signs. Your pup will sleep in the crate, whereas the playpen provides extra space. Make sure to choose a pen with a door so that you can attach it to the crate, such as the Midwest Homes for Pets Folding Exercise Pen from Amazon. I also recommend the Midwest Homes for Pets icrate. Introduce the Crate Slowly introduce the crate when crate training your Lab over the first few days. When you let your pup out of his crate, immediately take him outside. When he is away from his own room, make sure you closely supervise him by keeping him attached to you on a long leash. Allow Frequent Potty Breaks Give your dog lots of opportunities to go outside. Create a Puppy Potty Schedule Dogs thrive off routines, including mealtimes, exercise, and potty training! You can set an alarm on your watch or phone to remind you to take your dog outside to his toilet area. Your pup will need to go first thing in the morning, after a meal or drinking, when he wakes from a nap, after playtimes, and before bedtime. Look for clues such as sniffing the floor or carpet, circling, restlessness, becoming overexcited, whining, or making towards the door. This includes whether you catch him in the act or if it happened a while ago. Moreso, the latter, as your dog will have no idea what he is being punished for! This is because dogs have a terrible short-term memory and will forget an event in two minutes. Instead, take him straight outside and reward him with a treat and lots of praise if he finishes off his business. Use Potty Pads as a Temporary Indoor Alternative Potty pads can be handy in extended periods of bad weather or if you live in a high-rise apartment and it takes longer to get outside. They can also be useful when traveling. This is when your Labrador gets so excited he will pee a small amount. It may happen when a family member or friend visits. To prevent this, allow your dog to eliminate before a visitor arrives and ensure visitors make their entrance low-key with no fuss, even ignoring the pup for a few minutes. Dogs will usually grow out of excitement pee by 18 months of age. Be Aware of Submissive Urination This is also common, but your puppy will outgrow it. It occurs when your Labrador wants to show submissive status to a person or another animal. He may squat and urinate during specific situations. To prevent it, avoid yelling and physical punishment, appear less intimidating when approaching, kneel down, and stroke under his chin instead of the top of his head. At first, keep his sleeping area small and then gradually increase the size slowly and methodically. Remove the divider in the crate or make the playpen area larger if you arent using a crate. You can use a crate to your advantage as it helps your pup develop quicker bowel and bladder control. To potty train a Lab puppy with a crate, use the crate as a tool. When the door is closed, your Lab will let you know he needs to eliminate by whining or scratching. He will learn self-control quicker. Crates are great when you cannot fully supervise your puppy and are an ideal way to control his environment. However, you still need to keep a close eye on him and spot the signs when he needs to go. Make it smaller using a divider. He will be less likely to eliminate in a smaller sleeping area. Check out my recommendations for the Best Dog Crates for Labradors and Playpens , including soft crates, travel crates, and furniture styles. Just be aware that it will probably take a little longer. Use dog gates to section off an area of the house. When away from his confinement, tether your pup to you with a long leash and establish a strict potty break schedule. If you choose dog gates, there are many styles you can choose to match your decor and configure how you like. This area should contain training pads or newspapers. Potty Training Puppies Between Months Old Most puppies are around eight weeks old when they leave their mother and littermates, but occasionally your pup may be a little older when you first bring him home. You may wonder how to potty train an older puppy and whether you should do anything different. Generally speaking, you should follow the same principles as training an 8-week-old Lab. However, a more mature puppy should be able to grasp housebreaking quicker. Labrador house training routines. We want them to learn to wait until they are outdoors before emptying their bladder or bowels. It is about maturity too. We need to understand that tiny puppies have immature bodies and are not physically capable of waiting very long. On your side There are two factors on your side in the potty training process. When it comes to bladder control, fortunately your puppy improves with every day that passes, so this factor does not work against you forever. The same applies to the fact that the puppy has been removed from his nest, he will soon learn to accept his new nest. The principles of puppy potty training The puppy is learning the principle of extending the nest area, which he keeps clean instinctively, to include your entire home. Punishment is counter-productive in this process as it teaches the puppy to avoid emptying himself in your presence. Rewards are helpful, but given the right routine, a puppy will naturally learn to be clean without them. The secret to successful house training lies in selecting targets that the puppy can achieve. If your puppy sometimes needs to wee every 15 minutes whilst he is awake and active, you will have to take him outside every 15 minutes. Restricted access Start small applies here too. Allow your puppy access only to a small part of your home. Increase the area he has access to, only when he is capable of keeping the current area clean. Just because he can. And because the sensation of a filling bladder is a new one. Your job is to teach him to wait a little longer. You do this by confining him for a short time, every time his bladder fills. You can confine him in his nest within a crate , or in your arms. He will be reluctant to wee in either location. If he wets himself, you have waited too long! It takes two You need to go outside with your puppy, and stay out there with him, each time he needs to wee. A tiny puppy is unlikely to empty himself on his own. This especially applies in cold or wet weather. Routines Matter When House Training a Labrador Retriever Based around these practical requirements you can create your own house training routine. For a puppy that needs to wee every half an hour, it will go something like this Take puppy outside to the toilet area and wait with him until he empties himself Bring him indoors and allow him free access to your kitchen for fifteen to twenty minutes Crate or cuddle the puppy until it is thirty minute since his last wee Take the puppy back out to the toilet area If at any time the puppy does not empty himself then confine him for another ten minutes and try again. As soon as he is regularly not needing to wee after thirty minutes you can extend the duration of free access to your kitchen. Provided you stick to these principles and strategies, the house training process, though quite intense for a short while, will pass smoothly. Time to start potty training your Labrador Puppy Potty training or house training is one of the first things that you will have to focus on after bringing home a Labrador Puppy. However, you must know what to expect when toilet training a Lab puppy, you must be prepared with patience and dedication since house training can be difficult in the beginning. Here are the house-training basics that you will need to follow to train your puppy. House training is done over time, and here is how. You can also take your puppy into your yard if you have one. Teaching your lab puppy go potty in the yard is the best idea since Labradors produce a lot of waste when they are grown. If you live in an apartment you have no other option but to take your Lab outside to evacuate. Lab puppies love to go outside and explore new territories. So for apartment dwellers, the first months of potty training will happen indoors. Puppies can refuse to go potty on surfaces that they are not used to. For example, if your puppy gets used to evacuating on hard floors, going potty in the grass will feel awkward to your puppy, and will prefer to do it on the sidewalk. So, using an artificial grass puppy pad while you potty train your Lab indoors can help to transition to real grass when your puppy is ready to explore the outside world. How to toilet train a Labrador Retriever Puppy Keep an eye on your puppy for signs like circling, sniffing, and scratching the floor. This means that your puppy needs to potty. Take your puppy outside or to the designated potty place in your house or apartment. This will help your dog know that is the place to go do the thing. If the activity is successful praise your puppy for doing a good job. You can also give your Lab puppy a treat for doing a good job, Labs are a food-motivated breed, so yummy treats help a lot with training. Positive reinforcement will help your Labrador to go potty in the right place. Limiting the movement of your puppy will make it easier to keep an eye on during this process. Consider using baby gates to close an area of your house. The area must be big enough so that your puppy can move and play inside. It should be close to your yard or the area of your house where you want your Lab to go potty. Also, this area must be easy to clean, you can expect accidents in this part of the potty training. Then take the puppy to the potty place and let it finish there. Do not scare the puppy if you catch it in the act, the goal is to get its attention and let it know that it is not doing the right thing. This is something you must teach your dog. Do it patiently and be consistent with the training and eventually, you will get your Labrador fully house-trained. Use some white vinegar diluted in water or an enzymatic odor remover to thoroughly clean the area. For this period, you might need the following items to begin potty training your Labrador puppy. Make sure they are all pet-friendly and of a reputable brand name. Absorbent pee pad : Dog training pads mostly come in handy in the first stages of house training, before your puppy can go potty outside. The benefit of a pad is that the mess your puppy makes will be confined to just one place and it will be easier for you to clean up. Stain Remover : As a routine, accidents are bound to happen. And this is why having a good cleaner is extremely important. Along with a pet, cleaner make sure you also have ample small towels on hand. Dog poop bag and Pooper scooper : Having these is also very important. They will come in handy when you have to pick up and discard the mess your little friend makes. You can carry these in your bag or even in your pocket when you go out on a walk with your dog. Treats: Many dogs are motivated by food, and this is why you will need food treats that your Labrador puppy enjoys. After your dog listens to your commands and goes to the right place, give him a treat, so he understands that food comes after he goes to the right place. A leash and collar: This will allow you to show your dog where the right place is. Barrier gates : This is also an essential supply as it will confine your dog to a specific place. Barrier gates make it easier to keep your house floors clean. Pee finder : Finding and cleaning dried pee will help prevent future accidents. You might also want a car seat cover in case you have to travel somewhere with your little friend. An artificial grass pad to train your puppy for the outside. When to start house training your Labrador puppy: On a general note, younger Labrador puppies have very short attention spans. At what age should a lab puppy be potty trained? House training should begin as soon as your Lab puppy arrives at your home. Which is normally at 7 to 9 weeks of age. So, if your little Labrador puppy is a few weeks old, you might begin with basic command words to get familiar with the house routine and also your voice. You can use this time to show your new Lab puppy the areas of your house it is allowed to be in, and close off any part of your house that is off-limits to your dog. The best moments to train your Lab puppy are: After a nap. Supervise Your Puppy Your second job is to supervise or contain your puppy when his bladder is filling up. You can do this by crating him for a few minutes, or by cuddling him in your arms. I recommend the cuddle option for the first few days, that way you can introduce the crate gradually once he has settled into his new home. Either spend your first day together in the yard getting a feel for how frequently they pee. As you can see, there is some guesswork involved in house training a puppy, but not too much. The secrets of successful outdoor toilet trips Not wanting to pee outside is a common toilet training puppy problem and one we look at in more detail in this article. Keeping your puppy company is the key. You need to go outside with your puppy and wait there with him until he has done a wee. This may take longer than you would like, and you probably have better things to do than stand in your yard while your puppy chases butterflies or plays with your shoe laces. But stay outside you must, until he has done that wee. Coming Indoors Early If you must come indoors before your puppy has relieved himself, you need to supervise him very closely. Hold him in your arms — or put him in a small crate for a few minutes — before going back out to try again. It is a new puppy problem, and it will pass. And if you teach your puppy to pee on command, it will pass even quicker! Rewarding success If you put plenty of effort in, and take your puppy out a great deal in those first few days, he will quickly learn that the place you have allocated to him for potty purposes is the place to pee. You can praise him and give him a little treat for doing so. Have your treat on hand keep them next to your poop bags so you remember to grab both on the way out , and deliver it right after your puppy has completed their business. Rewarding his successes and ignoring his accidents is the quickest way of successfully communicating what you want, and quickly potty training your puppy. Stage 2 — Learning self control During stage 2 your puppy begins to develop some self control. This means he can wait a few minutes before emptying himself when his bladder starts to feel full. Keep an eye on your puppy for the tell tale signs that he needs to use the toilet: whimpering, whining or barking sniffing about, especially sniffing in circles! Using Your Crate If your puppy is now used to his crate, you can start using it stretch out the gaps between toilet trips. Accidents during stage 2 At some point during stage 2, many puppies will be able to last an hour or so between wees. This is when puppy parents often relax their vigilance, and their puppies start having accidents in the house again. Simply go back to shorter gaps between trips to the yard for a few days. Then start to space out those trips again, but more gradually this time. Stage 3 — Extending the clean zone This is where all your hard work starts to really pay off. Once your puppy is confidently and consistently toileting outdoors, and you can further stretch out the gaps between toilet breaks, and start to introduce your puppy to the rest of your home. Take it slowly, and if accidents occur, to go back to shorter gaps between trips outdoors for a few days. Bear in mind that your puppy may be used to peeing in the yard and not in the kitchen by now, but they might not automatically understand which rule applies to the lounge. Method 2: How to potty train a puppy indoors This section has a lot in common with how to potty train a puppy when you work. So follow method 2 if you need to know how to potty train a puppy in an apartment as well. And that means using pads. How to potty train a puppy on pads The simplest way to do this is to restrict the puppy to a smallish room with washable floors. Cover the floor with puppy pads to begin with, with their bed in one corner. How do you train a puppy to pee on a pad? With this arrangement in place, as long as your puppy leaves his bed to pee which his mom will have encouraged him to do , he will pee onto the pads. So over the next few days, reduce the area of the floor that is covered with puppy pads by half. You should find he begins to make an effort to pee and poop on the part of the floor that is covered — but it needs to be a sizeable part to get this good habit established. How to potty train a puppy fast using pads — reducing the toilet area By the end of the first week, you can begin to reduce the part of the floor that is covered with puppy pads right down to a small area, preferably near the back door. It is usually best to do this when you have some time booked off work — or during a long weekend when the weather is fine. But if you choose to crate train your puppy LINK alongside potty training him, the crate can be a useful aid for potty training too. Once your puppy thinks of the crate as their bed, they will be reluctant to soil in it. You Still Need To Watch Your Puppy Always watch puppies closely in their crate during potty training, and whisk them out to the right spot at the first sign they might need to relieve themselves. You can find out a lot more about crate training and the role it plays in rapid house training on this page. As well opportunities to use the toilet, Labrador puppies need company and socialisation while they are small. So, if you are going to go back to work you need to arrange someone to look after him, or to come in at intervals throughout the day to play with him and take him out. Here are some articles which will be of interest if you are thinking of getting a puppy and work full time:.

Labradoodles come in several sizes. Mini Labradoodles are typically under 16 inches tall and weigh about 15 to 25 pounds. Medium Labradoodles have a height of 17 to 21 inches and weigh from 40 to 65 pounds, while the Standard Labradoodle weighs in at anywhere from 55 to 90 pounds and reaches a height of 21 to 26 inches tall. While giant Labradoodles do not technically have a category all their own, they do fall under the standard umbrella of a typical Labradoodle, often weighing in at 80 pounds or more and are taller than 30 inches. In other words, giant Labradoodles technically fall under standard but trend on the larger end of the scale. A large size Labradoodle facing the camera for a photo. What Factors Result in Giant Labradoodles? The most dominant factor in achieving the stature of a large Labradoodle is parentage. A good breeder will take a bigger Poodle and breed it with a substantially hefty Labrador Retriever to produce a giant Labradoodle. While this does not always guarantee the offspring will be giant, it could still result in pups that grow within the territory of standard and large Labradoodles. Always consider that a trustworthy breeder will never give a percent guarantee that the offspring produced will be large, even if the parent breeds are big. Genes do play a significant factor, but sometimes other things can come into play when determining the height and weight of a dog, including birth order, what type of food the dog eats, how much they consume of it, and their early growth rate. The Poodle and Labrador Retriever are both in large sizes. Puppies require proper nutrition to aid in their early development. Ideally, puppies get fed 3 to 4 smaller meals per day instead of 2 meals in a day for older puppies and adult dogs. Puppies can be prone to upset stomachs and diarrhea, and overfeeding can only exacerbate the issue. Be sure to keep their bellies full at a slow and steady rate, as this will help improve their overall digestion and immune systems. Depending on their feeding habits, Labradoodles could potentially grow larger even after their typical early growth rate ends , which lasts for a year. Longer growth rates can also occur in larger breeds, such as the Labradoodle. The Giant Labradoodle and Health Problems Another reason not to overfeed Labradoodles is that it increases the chance of health issues when the dog matures. Due to both the parent breeds being prone to skeletal problems, Labradoodles have a higher risk of hip dysplasia, resulting in arthritis and chronic pain. Do your research. Find a reputable breeder, as they will only breed Labrador Retrievers and Poodles who are in good health. Labradoodles are also prone to excessive weight gain if fed improperly, leading to heart disease, diabetes, and other respiratory problems. The solution is to stick with a scheduled feeding system and ensure the Labradoodle receives anywhere from thirty to sixty minutes of daily exercise. Labradoodles have high energy and need a diet with plenty of protein and adequate exercise, and giant Labradoodles are no exception. Labradoodle sitting in the studio. However, this delay is likely to cause additional problems later in life, such as joint issues and hip dysplasia. Because of this, vets often recommend neutering larger breed dogs upon maturity, usually after the first year. How Long do Giant Labradoodles Live? A Labradoodle comfortably sitting on the road. Where to Find Giant Labradoodles? Despite being a popular designer dog, sometimes it can be challenging to find and adopt large Labradoodles. Research breeders in your area to find one with good reviews and trustworthiness. A reputable breeder will never guarantee that the Labradoodles will grow to be giant, but if they have a reputation for mating large dogs with reasonable success rates then you can be sure to trust them. Another way of finding Labradoodles is by looking into local animal shelters or rescue services. Many factors can contribute to a dog ending up at a shelter, including being lost, given up, or even neglected, and while Labradoodles are very sought after, you may find one there. In addition, there are often specific breed rescue organizations. Giant Labradoodles Make a Great Addition to the Family Giant Labradoodles have all the charisma and intelligence of their parent breeds while also being extra cute with their curly textured coat, high energy, and modest temperament. Most larger Labradoodles can grow to be over 30 inches tall and weigh in at about 80 pounds or more with the proper diet and exercise regimen. My wife and I love playing with our active miniature Labradoodle Max. We want all Oodle puppies to be healthy and happy, have lots of fun and be part of the family. Load More. Use tab to navigate through the menu items. Deer Creek Comfort Dogs Shaping future companions for families and those in need of comfort Our family has been raising puppies for over 20 years. Our children have always had a passion for dogs which began our journey and now our grandchildren enjoy growing up with our wonderful dogs by their side. Deer Creek provides emotional support dogs, therapy dogs, service and therapy prospects, canine good citizen dogs as well as family pets. Deer Creek assists our families with puppy selection to help ensure the families get the puppy that will work well with their needs. Someone once said, "Acquiring a dog may be the only opportunity a human ever has to choose a relative" and we hope you choose one of ours. If you are interested in finding your new family member, fill out our puppy application and we will be thrilled to work with you. We recognize that our dogs have the capability of changing peoples' lives on a therapeutic level. Many of our Doodles have become therapy dogs at funeral homes, children's advocacy centers, hospitals and nursing homes, and others have found homes as anxiety, PTSD and emotional support dogs. Learn more about our nonprofit organization Deer Creek Paw Prints at www. Learn More Molly, Rhys, and Beau! Although a playful pup sounds endearing, consider how many games of fetch or tag you want to play each day, and whether you have kids or other dogs who can stand in as playmates for the dog. Click here for more information on this characteristic Labradoodle Highlights Friendly and intelligent: Labradoodles are known for being friendly and intelligent dogs. They are good with children and other animals, and they are easy to train. Hypoallergenic: Labradoodles are often considered to be hypoallergenic, which means that they do not shed as much as other dogs. This makes them a good choice for people with allergies. Active and playful: Labradoodles are active dogs that need regular exercise. They enjoy playing fetch, going for walks, and swimming. Loyal and devoted: Labradoodles are loyal and devoted dogs that make great companions. They are always happy to see their owners and they love to cuddle. Versatile: Labradoodles are versatile dogs that can be trained for a variety of tasks, including therapy work, obedience, and agility. They can be expensive to purchase and maintain. They require regular grooming, especially if they have a curly coat. They are prone to some health problems, such as hip dysplasia and elbow dysplasia. Overall, Labradoodles are wonderful dogs that make great companions for people of all ages. If you are looking for a friendly, intelligent, and hypoallergenic dog, a Labradoodle may be a good choice for you. Labradoodle History Wally Conron, who was in charge of the breeding program for the Royal Guide Dogs Association of Australia, purposefully crossbred a Standard Poodle and Labrador Retriever in to develop the Labradoodle as a hypoallergenic guide dog. The first cross produced Sultan, a dog with a hypoallergenic coat, aptitude, intelligence, and personality suitable for being an effective guide dog. Sultan worked successfully with a woman in Hawaii. Other breeders saw the merit of crossing these two breeds, and the Labradoodle quickly rose in popularity like its Labrador Retriever parent. These dogs are often produced by crossing a Labrador Retriever with a Poodle, but multigenerational breeding has begun in an attempt to produce a viable and recognizable breed. The Australian Labradoodle Association and the International Australian Labradoodle Association are taking steps to move this designer breed into registered breed status in the next few years. These groups have made great efforts to bring breeders together so that they are working to achieve the same standards through multigenerational breeding. Labradoodle Size The Labradoodle comes in three size variations, depending on the size of the Poodle used for the first-generation breeding. The three sizes are Standard, Medium, and Miniature. The Standard Labradoodle should be 22 to 24 inches in height for a male and 21 to 23 inches in height for a female, while both can range in weight from 50 to 65 pounds. The Medium Labradoodle should be 18 to 20 inches high for a male and 17 to 19 inches high for a female, with both weighing from 30 to 45 pounds. The average size for a Miniature Labradoodle is between 14 to 16 inches and 15 to 25 pounds. All of that said, there is a lot of variation in Labradoodle sizes. Some can be smaller or larger than expected. Labradoodle Personality The Labradoodle is an intelligent dog who can make the ideal family pet if properly trained. They are friendly and accept and treat everyone like their best friend. They can be gentle, but they can also be joyful, showing their happiness through exuberant jumping and playing. They also tend to be easygoing, since the Labradoodle was bred not to be aggressive. Temperament is affected by a number of factors, including heredity, training, and socialization. Puppies with nice temperaments are curious and playful, willing to approach people and be held by them. Meeting siblings, parents, or other relatives of the dog is also helpful for evaluating what a puppy will be like when they grow up. Socialization helps ensure that your Labradoodle puppy grows up to be a well-rounded dog. Enrolling them in a puppy kindergarten class is a great start. Inviting visitors over regularly, and taking them to busy parks, stores that allow dogs, and on leisurely strolls to meet neighbors will also help them polish their social skills. Here are a few conditions to watch out for: Ear Infections: These can plague Labradoodles because of their floppy ears. The ears trap moisture and should be regularly checked. X-ray screening is the most certain way to diagnose the problem. Either way, arthritis can develop as the dog ages. Dogs with hip dysplasia should not be bred. Elbow Dysplasia : Similar to hip dysplasia, this is also a degenerative disease. The disease varies in severity: the dog could simply develop arthritis, or they could become lame. Treatment includes surgery, weight management, medical management, and anti-inflammatory medication. It can cause mild or severe seizures that may show themselves as unusual behavior—such as running frantically as if being chased, staggering, or hiding—or even by falling down, limbs rigid, and losing consciousness. Seizures are frightening to watch, but the long-term prognosis for dogs with idiopathic epilepsy is generally very good. Allergies: Allergies are a common ailment in dogs, and the Labradoodle is no exception. Treatment varies according to the cause and may include dietary restrictions, medications, and environmental changes. Diabetes Mellitus: This is a disorder in which the body cannot regulate blood sugar levels. The dog will lose weight because food is not being used efficiently. Symptoms of diabetes are excessive urination and thirst, increased appetite, and weight loss. Diabetes can be controlled by diet and the administration of insulin. Progressive Retinal Atrophy PRA : This is a family of eye diseases that involves the gradual deterioration of the retina. Early in the disease, affected dogs become night-blind; they lose sight during the day as the disease progresses. Many affected dogs adapt well to their limited or lost vision, as long as their surroundings remain the same. Hypothyroidism : This is a disorder of the thyroid gland. It is treated with medication and diet. They require about 30 to 60 minutes of exercise per day and would do better with a fenced yard in which to expel some energy. Some Labradoodles, especially in the first generation, can require even more exercise. The Labradoodle makes an excellent jogging companion but also needs some time off-leash to burn off steam. The Labradoodle is an intelligent and eager-to-please dog. Training should be easy as long as consistency and positive reinforcement are the methods. Socialize them from puppyhood, since they tend to hurl themselves headlong into canine situations without regard to the feelings of other dogs. This can lead to some problems if the unknown dog is aggressive. Despite their activity levels, a Labradoodle can adjust to living in suburban or city environments and can do well in rural settings. A crate is also a place where they can retreat for a nap. Crate training at a young age will help your Labradoodle accept confinement if they ever needs to be boarded or hospitalized. Never stick your Labradoodle in a crate all day long, however. Labradoodle Feeding Recommended daily amount: 1 to 2. NOTE: How much your adult dog eats depends on their size, age, build, metabolism, and activity level. It almost goes without saying that a highly active dog will need more than a couch potato dog. Keep your Labradoodle in good shape by measuring their food and feeding them twice a day rather than leaving food out all the time. First, look down at them. You should be able to see a waist. Then place your hands on their back, thumbs along the spine, with the fingers spread downward. You should be able to feel but not see their ribs without having to press hard. For more on feeding your Labradoodle, see our guidelines for buying the right food , feeding your puppy , and feeding your adult dog. Labradoodle Coat Color And Grooming Although a Labradoodle can have one of a range of coat types, the desired length is four to six inches. They have a single coat with hair ranging from straight to loose curls. There are three types of texture: The Hair coat, which is similar to fur in shedding breeds, is the least popular. Hair coats shed and usually have a normal doggy odor. This coat is seen in first generations, although breeders try to avoid it. The Fleece coat has a silky texture often described as an Angora goat texture. This coat ranges from straight to wavy. Labradoodles are considered to be non- to low shedders, especially those with a Fleece or Wool coat. Hair coats tend to shed just as they do in other breeds, ranging from very low to average shedding. The Labradoodle comes in a wide variety of colors. They can also have parti-colored coats, which consist of brindles, phantom, patched, or sable colors. Grooming requirements vary depending on the length and type of coat the dog has. Generally speaking, you can expect to brush a Labradoodle about once or twice per week. Some can be clipped or trimmed every six to eight weeks to keep the coat easy to maintain. Like Labs, Labradoodles can be prone to ear infections, so take a little extra time caring for their ears. Dry and clean them after a swim, and check them once a week for dirt, redness, or a bad odor that can indicate an infection. Then wipe them out weekly with a cotton ball dampened with gentle, pH-balanced ear cleaner to prevent problems. Daily brushing is even better if you want to prevent gum disease and bad breath. Dog toenails have blood vessels in them, and if you cut too far you can cause bleeding—and your dog may not cooperate the next time they see the nail clippers come out. Handle their paws frequently—dogs are touchy about their feet—and look inside their mouth. As you groom, check for sores, rashes, or signs of infection such as redness, tenderness, or inflammation on the skin, in the nose, mouth, and eyes, and on the feet. Eyes should be clear, with no redness or discharge. Your careful weekly exam will help you spot potential health problems early. Labradoodle Children And Other Pets The Labradoodle does well with children and can be an affectionate and gentle companion for any child. They can also be exuberant and might knock down smaller children, but they will love them with all their heart. As with every breed, you should always teach children how to approach and touch dogs, and always supervise any interactions between dogs and young children to prevent any biting or ear or tail pulling on the part of either party. No dog, no matter how friendly, should ever be left unsupervised with a child. Labradoodles usually get along well with other dogs and pets. Like most dogs, they need training and socialization for optimum success at living with and visiting other animals. Labradoodle Rescue Groups Labradoodles are often brought home without any clear understanding of what goes into owning one. Many end up in the care of shelters or rescues because of this. It may be hard to find a breed-specific rescue for Labradoodles because they are a mixed breed. However, you may want to try Labrador Retriever or Poodle breed-specific rescues, as they often care for mixes, as well. Reputable breeders are committed to breeding healthy, well-socialized puppies that will make great companions. They will screen their breeding stock for health problems, socialize their puppies from a young age, and provide you with lifetime support. On the other hand, backyard breeders are more interested in making a profit than in producing healthy, well-adjusted dogs. They may not screen their breeding stock for health problems, and they may not socialize their puppies properly. As a result, puppies from backyard breeders are more likely to have both health and behavioral issues. More Info For You. Their adorable curly fur and expressive faces make you want to cuddle them — and these little guys love nothing more than a good squish. All this and more makes our labradoodle puppies for sale one the most in-demand in our center. Activity-loving families adore these dogs for their propensity towards sports, and anyone who prefers low-shedding pooch benefits from their wooly or fleecy fur. Labradoodle puppies for sale are so cute and come in such a wide range of colors that it makes choosing your new best friend super-hard! While spearheading the Royal Guide Dogs Association of Australia breeding program, he conducted the crossbreeding of a standard poodle and Labrador retriever in view of it being a hypoallergenic guide dog for blind people. The first example of this type of dog, called Sultan, went to live with a lady in Hawaii, where other breeders saw him as an inspiration and this is how Australian Labradoodle puppies started. Both the International Australian Labradoodles Association and the Australian Labradoodles Association of America are working hard to incorporate more intergenerational breeding so these dog breeders can register this type of dog as a purebred dog. Its gentle, obedient and intelligent personality combined with a hypoallergenic coat make it ideal for family members with allergies, but it also makes an excellent service or therapy dog. Labradoodle Puppies Lifespan When properly taken care of, healthy dogs tend to live anywhere from 10 to 13 years. The lifespan of our Labradoodle puppies for sale is slightly above average at 12 to 14 years. Here are the life stages of multigenerational Australian Labradoodles: Puppyhood: First five months Adolescence: Between five months and two years Adulthood: Between two and three years Middle age: Between seven years and 10 years Senior: Over 10 years Labradoodles need the most attention and care in the first and last stages of their life. During puppyhood, their minds are highly impressionable, which is ideal for training. During their senior years, Labradoodles are more susceptible to health problems, which means owners need to keep a watchful eye. Labradoodle Size The size of labradoodle puppies for sale directly relates to the size of their parents and which generation of breed Labradoodle breeders chose. The larger the puppies, the larger the adult dog will be, and the faster their growth will be coming out of the puppy stage. A standard labradoodle puppy will weigh from pounds by the time it reaches two months of age. By a year old, it will have grown dramatically to up to 80 pounds, depending on the size of its parents. Medium Labradoodles occupy a spectrum of sizes between standard and mini Labradoodles, with the specifics depending heavily on the details of the breeding pair that birthed them and the breeding program they come from. Labradoodle Puppies Temperament While Labradoodle breeders originally bred the Australian Labradoodles as therapy dogs, their fun, friendly personalities made them popular pets. Now you can find these sociable dogs in homes across the globe. Here are some of the top personality traits of our Labradoodle puppies for sale. They tend to do best in active households where they can work off all that pent-up energy. You can fulfill their needs through the following activities: Walks or jogs: Labradoodles make great walking companions and can even keep up with you during a jog. Playing in the yard: Enjoy a game of fetch with your furry friend in the yard or just let it loose on its own. Dog sports: If you stay active through sports, consider making your labradoodle a part of your routine. Bring it on bike rides, go for a run together or kick a ball around in the yard. Obstacle courses: Set up an obstacle course for your dog using household items. Scavenger hunt: Creating a scavenger hunt for your canine is a great way to exercise its body and brain. In general, Labradoodles need anywhere from 30 to 60 minutes of exercise a day. You can also enroll them later at a Labradoodle puppy alumni school for proper training. Friendliness What makes Labradoodles the perfect puppy compare to other dog breeds is their ability to get along with just about anyone. They inherit this trait from their Labrador retriever parent, a breed also known for its outgoing nature. You can trust your labradoodle to form friendships with everyone, from children and older adults to strangers and other puppies. Thanks to their affectionate, sociable personalities, Labradoodles make great pets for first-time owners, families, or anyone looking for a companion. Intelligence Thanks to their poodle parent breeds, Labradoodles are incredibly intelligent dogs. Because Labradoodles are intelligent, they often crave mental stimulation. Labradoodle Puppies Grooming Our Labradoodle puppies for sale have a variety of coat textures that dog owners enjoy, but in general, their low shedding coat needs brushing at least twice a week. Not only does this keep them tangle-free but it also removes excess debris from their coat, keeping them fresh and hygienic. Regularly trim the hair around their eyes and in between their paws to prevent these problem areas from causing irritation. Pooches with fleece coats tend to have longer fur and benefit the most from going to a professional groomer — although every dog loves getting pampered once in a while. At Pride and Prejudoodles, we send a can and a bag of the foods we use for free with your hand-delivered bundle of joy. If you need to change it for any reason, it must be done gradually to avoid stomach upsets. Just bear in mind that a diet is such a crucial aspect of wellness that feeding them good quality food will add years to their lives compared to opting for low-quality feed. Pride and Prejudoodles is here to help. We hope you found our guide informative. Please contact us with any other questions you have about our Labradoodle puppies for adoption. Like the American Labradoodle, the Australian variety comes in three standard sizes. Miniature: 15 to 30 pounds, 14 to 16 inches tall Medium: 30 to 45 pounds, 17 to 20 inches tall Standard: 50 to 70 pounds, 21 to 24 inches tall So, according to the breed standards available, there is no way that an Australian Labradoodle can qualify as a giant breed. Parentage is a great way to predict how large your puppy may grow to be. Like most dogs, adult male Labradoodles tend to be larger than females. In some cases, males can outweigh females by 10 to 15 pounds! Predicting Adult Size from Labradoodle Puppies Standard Labradoodle puppies typically weigh between 7 and 12 pounds when they are 8 weeks old. But, there will be some variation. Dogs do most of their growing in the first 6 months of life. By the time they reach 10 months, a Labradoodle can weigh as much as 80 pounds! But, remember, the bigger a dog is, the longer the growth cycle. Some people that want a giant Labradoodle think feeding a puppy more food will help them get a larger adult dog. Giant Labradoodle — Problems with Overfeeding Puppies need good nutrition in proper amounts to develop at their optimal rate. A slow, steady rate will help them achieve this and will also improve immune functions. Overfeeding can put a strain on their digestive system, leading to stomach upset and diarrhea. This is why young puppies need 3 or 4 meals a day, rather than 2. Smaller meals will be easier on their small stomachs! Overfeeding can also overstimulate growth. This is a particular issue in larger dogs that are already at risk. Skeletal Problems for Labradoodles One of the most concerning skeletal problems that Labradoodles are at risk of is hip dysplasia. This is a condition that can cause pain, lameness, and arthritis. Heavier and faster-growing dogs are also at higher risk. Reputable breeders will only breed from parent dogs that have good hip scores. Obesity On top of skeletal disorders, dogs that have too much food are also prone to obesity. Excessive weight can lead to a number of health issues, including: Heart disease. They have beautiful wavy fleece coats that will be non shedding and allergy friendly. Both Parents are easy going, affectionate and willing to please. He is a willing to please funny and goofy all while keeping his person in his sight. He has great eye contact and a nice connected intituive temperament. Possible therapy type dog. He has advanced training and is ready to explore the world, house trained, crate trained and learning more every day. He is a willing to please and a great learner with good intuition and great eye contact, he is easy going peaceful and calm. He has great eye contact and loves to be with his people, plays nice with all of the other dogs of all sizes. He will be a great family dog or dog for an individual. She is started on all of her basic training and well advanced with a calm easy going nature. She will be an excellent family dog or possible therapy type dog. She wants to please and learns quickly, going over and through obstacles, with great leash manners and offering good behaviours, she is house trained and crate trained.

Lisa Chiarelli Without hesitation, Chiarelli agreed to rescue the puppy. She spent the rest of the night planning his freedom ride but woke up the next morning to a shocking update. He was accompanied by four littermates , and they all clearly needed help. Chiarelli was determined to save the entire little family. But she could tell right away that they had a long road to recovery ahead of them. On top of round-the-clock medicine, the puppies were given consistent cuddles by everyone at the clinic, and, before long, they started to thrive. Soon, they were all healthy, and finally ready to live the carefree puppy life. As soon as they were given a clean bill of health, the puppies were placed into foster homes. Lisa Chiarelli For now, the remaining puppies will continue to learn and grow with the help of their loving foster families. And, as Chiarelli sees it, the best is yet to come. To inquire about adopting the puppies, you can reach out to Lisa Chiarelli via Instagram or email. To help these puppies and other animals get the care they need, you can make a donation to Frankie Lola and Friends here. Our experienced dog nutritionists will learn about your dog and guide you towards a customized fresh dog box. We handmake different treats and chews every 4 weeks. We use roughly lbs of quality fresh meat and seafood. At one low price, you get everything in the Treat And Chew Box. Do you need a few mins? Let us keep them busy. Every month we send 8 to 10 freshly air-dried chews of different strength levels. Our treats come in every shape and size to break into whatever size you need. We air-dry lbs of fresh meat and fish for days to make one of these boxes. Make that a healthy snack!! That is why we have the Mini Treat and Chew Box, it has 2 different types of treats and a bag of chews. No seafood or heavy chews. Let us help you save your shoes with our Super Chews. Add as many Super Chews as you want to any box or as a standalone subscription! Just like our treats, we make a fresh new Super Chew every 4 weeks. You decide how many shoes you want to save! Made with approx. They are air-dried just like all of our treats and chews and made with lean muscle meats, poultry bone, organ meats, seafood and fur for fiber. Secreting organs may include spleen or kidney. Proteins vary every box cycle! But you can make yours any way you want. A closer look at the Golden paper dog: And a better look at the sweet little Border Collie paper dog: Inspiration for these paper dog boxes came from paper-replika, who made some super cute printable dog paper toys a while back and shared them under a Creative Commons license. I converted their basic design to the Cricut and made my own design tweaks — a longer body my dogs have long tube bodies! Then I thought this paper toy would be even better if it were a box! So I designed a trapezoidal box that fits under the dog. So now let me show you how to make paper dog boxes! Read my full disclosure policy. I have three different dog designs — one is modeled after my border collie puppy, one is a malamute, and the other is modeled after my golden retriever dog. Feel free to change the size of these, too! Need help with the scoring lines? Check out my tutorial on Cricut Scoring, Grouping, and Attaching! Fold your head piece along the scorelines, both big folds and tab folds. Everything gets folded IN. Glue everything on the head, saving the back of the head for last. Now, glue up the paper dog body, saving the rear end for last. If you are going to put a collar on your dog, fold and glue it to the body now. Now you can stop here and just have a paper dog or paper puppy. But if you want a paper dog BOX, keep going! Take the box piece and fold it in, both big folds and tab folds. Now, glue the tabs to the sides to form the box. Here are all of the cute paper dog boxes I made! Which one would you like to adopt? You can really make a lot of different dog breeds just by using different color of paper, different styles and sizes of ears and tails, and different markings. If you made yours look like your dog, be sure to include a photo of your dog, too! Please share a photo in our Facebook group , or tag me on social media with jennifermaker. Love, Jennifer Jennifer Marx is a designer, an enthusiastic crafter, a lifelong teacher, and a proud overcomer of a variety of life's challenges. She lives a full, happy life in beautiful Ann Arbor, Michigan with her partner Greg, her teen daughter Alexa, and their two dogs, Hunter and Chloe.

Articles Pugs are among the most easily recognized dog breeds, but have you ever seen a pug that just seems too small? These are mini pugs. Mini pugs, also called miniature pugs or chugs, are a cross between pugs and Chihuahuas or by breeding two very small pugs together, typically the runts of the litter. The first method is preferred, as serious health problems can come from breeding two runts. This does not mean that mini pugs are free from health problems. We take a look at the temperament, lifespan , and health issues associated with mini pugs as well as how they compare to teacup pugs. But first, let us explore the basics of this breed, from their size to what makes them special. Is There A Mini Pug? Image from Instagram: peggie. The mixes come from pug and Chihuahua parents. Miniature pugs come from the runts of a pug litter or from introducing a dwarfism or achondroplasia gene. Mini pugs that have Chihuahua and pug parents are also called Chugs, Chuggs, and Pughuahuas. This is the most accepted definition of mini pugs. The AKC recognizes miniature pugs as a type of pug. Importantly, this designation does not apply to the mixes that come from breeding a pug with a Chihuahua. When full-grown, mini pugs typically weigh 3 to 10 pounds. By contrast, full-size pugs typically weigh 14 to 18 pounds. Like full-sized pugs, mini pugs have large round heads with wrinkled brows and large, dark eyes. They have smooth coats that are short and require minimal grooming. Mini pugs, like pugs, are brachycephalic. This type of breed has deep facial folds and a face that is short and flat. Pugs of all sizes are usually all black or have a black face on apricot-fawn or silver coloring. Miniature pugs share their history with their full-sized counterparts that they were bred from. Pugs have been around since at least B. They are associated with Buddhist monks and Chinese emperors. Yes, but the teacup pug is not an officially recognized independent breed. Because neither mini pugs nor teacup pugs are recognized AKC breeds, the terms are sometimes used interchangeably. Both describe pugs that are smaller than average, typically around 3 pounds. Although naming conventions vary, the most common depends on the breeding history of the pup. A miniature pug is a cross between a pug and a Chihuahua. A teacup pug is the result of breeding two runts or pugs with dwarfism. Based on those naming conventions, miniature pugs have slightly longer snouts than teacup pugs. This comes from their Chihuahua genes. Visually, teacup pugs look just like pugs but much smaller. Miniature pugs, on the other hand, will have some obvious features of Chihuahuas, like that previously mentioned slightly larger snout. Put simply, they will not look purebred. While mini pugs are usually 3 to 10 pounds when fully grown, teacup pugs are usually 2 to 5 pounds. Mini pugs usually live 10 to 13 years, but teacup pugs have a life expectancy closer to 6 to 10 years. Both mini pugs and teacup pugs are closely related to full-sized pugs but very small. Their small size leads to similar health problems and concerns, from difficulties with birth to overcrowded mouths. The issue is that runts tend to not meet the breed standard. As such, they have a higher risk of heart defects, hypoglycemia, and other health issues. Intervertebral Disc Disease If you were to instead use the dwarfism gene, the mini pug would have a high risk of intervertebral disc disease, known as IVDD. This is a degenerative condition typically related to age, but it can occur in younger dogs in the case of mini pugs. The short snout blocks their air passage, this increasing the risk of respiratory problems. It also makes it harder for a mini pug to regulate his body temperature. As such, if you get a mini pug, you need to avoid long walks in hot weather and always ensure your pug gets enough water. The airway problems also make it harder for pugs to recover after exercise. But you cannot skip walking your pug, since he needs exercise. Bulging Eyes The large eyes of mini pugs pose their own problems too. There is a higher risk of scratches due to their size and they can be prone to corneal ulcers, a problem inherited from Chihuahuas. Deformed Bone Structure The screw tails of pugs are cute but occur due to misshapen bones. This can be painful for pugs and lead to neurological problems, like incontinence or even paralysis. Dental Problems Since mini pugs have small mouths, their teeth crowd close to each other. This increases the risk of gum disease and tooth decay. Crowded teeth make it easier for food to get caught between them and harder to get them clean. This leads to more tooth decay, and eventual periodontal disease. Healthy Diet Start by giving your mini pug a healthy diet that caters to his needs. Make sure to feed it only the essential nutrients and no filler ingredients that are commonly found among cheap dog food brands. Some of caring for a mini pug comes down to being aware of his potential health problems. Warmth In the winter, you will need to prevent your pooch from getting cold, as he has less body heat. Always invest in clothing for cold weather and rain gear. You will need to pay close attention to get all of their crowded mouth to avoid plaque buildup. Tiny dogs that weigh as little as three pounds require delicate handling, especially when they are still growing. You need to place them down gently, pay attention to not stepping on them and generally treat them delicately. Be cautious at all times. In your home, make sure you always pay attention to where the pug is when walking. Even a child stepping on a miniature pug could cause serious damage. Their small size also means you should avoid having your mini pug sleep in your bed. Not only could you roll onto it, but they may suffocate under your blankets. Mini pugs may also take longer to potty train since their bladders are smaller. The mini pug temperament remains the same today, making them a great house dog. In fact, thanks to their royal breeding, some people compare the demeanor of mini pugs to that of humans. Mini pugs, like full-sized pugs, tend to be shadows that follow their human everywhere. Mini pugs are obedient, caring, and loving. Your miniature pug will get along well with your family. It will also be friendly towards other people. Mini pugs even do well with babies, cats, and other dogs. Like their larger cousins, mini pugs prefer not to be left alone. They also do very well in the country with plenty of space to explore as well. You should be aware that mini pugs can be strong-minded. This makes them a bit harder to train if you lack patience. With patience, however, they will be well-behaved. Pugs want to make their humans happy, so rely on positive reinforcement. You should also know that mini pugs tend to bark more than other breeds. Because of this, you should start training your canine not to bark as much early on. No, the AKC does not classify mini pugs as hypoallergenic. Brush him weekly, outside your home and bathe him every three months. Teacup pugs are the smallest pug breed. They weigh just two to five pounds and many can easily fit in a teacup. Because teacup pugs are small, they require extra caution as they can get injured easily. The price depends on where you get the pooch. Because of the health concerns of mini pugs, always be sure to buy from a reputable breeder that makes the health of the canines a priority. These Pugs may be sold as miniatures, micros, pocket pugs or even teacups. However, the term teacup usually refers to a dog that is around 4 to 6 pounds 1. It is incredibly unlikely, if not impossible to get purebred Pug down to this size. Despite this, Teacup Pugs are still advertised and sold, and it is possible that they may be recognized by some designer dog registries. However, it is important to be cautious when considering purchasing a Teacup Pug as many of these dogs are the result of unethical breeding practices. This way, pug owners may buy a teacup Pug puppy, only to have them grown to typical Pug size as adults. Another way is through breeding dwarves , which can result in health issues for the dog and even if you do breed dwarves, dwarfism is not always passed onto offspring. Breeding runts or smaller Pugs, often with inbreeding, and withholding food to stunt growth are also unethical practices used to create Teacup Pugs. Crossbreeding Pugs with smaller breeds like the Chihuahua is another way that Teacup Pugs are created, but this can lead to unpredictable traits and health issues. Nevertheless, Crossbreeding Pugs with smaller breeds is probably the most ethical way to get a genuinely smaller Pug type dog. In conclusion, while Teacup Pugs may seem like a cute and desirable option for some, it is important to be aware of the unethical breeding practices that often go into creating them. It is recommended to instead seek out a reputable breeder who prioritizes the health and well-being of their dogs. The Pug breed originated in China, where they were bred to be companions for royalty. The Teacup Pug is believed to have been bred in the United States in the s, by crossing a Pug with a smaller breed such as a Chihuahua or a Pomeranian. In fact, many breeders and veterinarians caution against breeding Teacup Pugs and other teacups due to the potential health problems associated with breeding dogs to be unnaturally small. Pugs are already classified as a toy breed because of their small size. Breeders achieve this size by selecting the smallest pugs from litters and breeding them together. However, because of their very small size, they can sometimes face additional health challenges. Toy Pug: This term is a bit redundant since pugs are already in the toy group. Despite this, Teacup dogs have gained popularity in recent years due to their small size and cute appearance. However, it is important for potential owners to do their research and understand the potential health risks before deciding to bring a Teacup Pug into their home. Physical Characteristics of a Teacup Pug Teacup Pugs are small and compact dogs, with a height of around 6 to 10 inches 15 to 25 cm and a weight around 4 pounds 1. They have a short, smooth coat that comes in a variety of colors, including black, fawn, silver, and apricot. Their coat is easy to maintain and requires minimal grooming. The Teacup Pug has a distinctive wrinkled face, which is one of its most endearing features. Their eyes are large, round, and dark, and their ears are small and folded over. They have a short, stocky body with a broad chest and a curly tail. Teacup Pugs have a friendly and affectionate personality, and they love to be around people. They are playful and energetic, but they also enjoy lounging around and cuddling with their owners. They make great pets for families with children, as they are gentle and patient with kids. Overall, the Teacup Pug is a charming and delightful little dog that is sure to bring joy and companionship to any household. Help Dogs In Need Our blog posts aim to provide comprehensive, accurate, and objective information on all types of dogs, helping our readers make informed choices that fit their lifestyle. We don't endorse any specific breeding practices, but advocate for ethical breeding and dog welfare. We encourage exploring adoption first. Countless wonderful dogs, from all breeds, await their forever homes in shelters. Remember, with AdoptDontShop, you can give a deserving rescue a second chance at happiness. Teacup Pug Behavior Teacup Pugs are known for their playful and affectionate behavior. They are intelligent dogs that are easy to train. However, they can be stubborn at times and may require a firm hand during training. Teacup Pugs are social animals and enjoy spending time with their owners. They are loyal and protective of their family, making them excellent watchdogs. They thrive on attention and love to be cuddled and petted. Despite their small size, Teacup Pugs are energetic and require daily exercise to keep them healthy. They enjoy short walks and playing in the yard. However, they are also content to snuggle up with their owners on the couch. Teacup Pugs are known for their friendly nature and get along well with children and other pets. They are not aggressive and rarely bark, making them ideal apartment dogs. Overall, Teacup Pugs are wonderful companions that bring joy and love to their families. With proper training and care, they make excellent pets for individuals and families alike. These include genetic disorders and physical health issues in Pugs as well as issues that affect teacup dogs. Genetic Disorders Teacup Pugs are prone to a number of genetic disorders, such as brachycephalic airway syndrome and brachycephalic ocular syndrome. These conditions are caused by the shape of their skulls and can lead to respiratory and eye problems , including red eyes and wheezing. They may also suffer from dental problems due to their small size and crowded teeth as well as obesity. Other genetic disorders that teacup pugs may be prone to include hypoglycemia, collapsing trachea which can affect their ability to bark , hydrocephalus, and neurological disorders. These conditions can be serious and require immediate veterinary attention. Physical Health Issues Teacup Pugs may also be prone to a number of physical health issues. Obesity is a common problem for teacup pugs, as they have a tendency to overeat and are less active than larger dogs. This can lead to joint problems, such as hip and back issues. Teacup Pugs may also be prone to skin and ear infections, sliding knee caps, and other issues. It is important to keep their skin and ears clean and dry, and to monitor their mobility and overall health. Caring for a Teacup Pug Teacup Pugs are adorable pets that require proper care to maintain their health and happiness. In this section, we will discuss the essential aspects of caring for a Teacup Pug, including their diet and nutrition, exercise and play, and grooming. Exercise and Play Teacup Pugs are energetic dogs that require daily exercise and playtime. They enjoy short walks, indoor play, and interactive toys. Grooming Teacup Pugs have a short, smooth coat that requires minimal grooming and the occasional wash with a gentle 5-in-1 Dog Wash. Dog eye cleaning wipes like Dog Eye Wipes With Tear Stain Remover can gently eliminate residue build-up around the eyes and lighten existing stains. In addition, Teacup Pugs require regular nail trimming, and dog ear cleaning wipes like Dog Ear Cleaning Wipes can help eliminate ear wax, dirt, and odors while keeping their ears itch-free. Training a Teacup Pug Training a teacup pug requires patience, consistency, and positive reinforcement. These small dogs are intelligent and eager to please, but they can also be stubborn and easily distracted. Keep training sessions short and frequent, as teacup pugs have short attention spans. Make the crate a comfortable and inviting space for your pug, and never use it as a form of punishment. Socialize Your Pug Socialization is important for teacup pugs, as they can be timid around strangers and other dogs. Introduce your pug to new people and animals in a controlled environment, such as a dog park or obedience class. Be Consistent Consistency is key when training a teacup pug. Use the same commands and techniques every time, and make sure that all family members are on the same page when it comes to training. A certified dog trainer can provide personalized advice and guidance to help you and your pug succeed. Choosing a Teacup Pug Teacup Pugs are a popular breed due to their small size and adorable appearance. However, choosing the right Teacup Pug can be a daunting task. This section will provide some guidance on how to choose the perfect Teacup Pug for you. Adoption Adopting a Teacup Pug from a rescue organization can be a great option. Adopting from a rescue organization not only gives a loving home to a dog in need, but it also helps to prevent unethical breeding practices. Rescue organizations typically provide this information to potential adopters, which can help in making an informed decision. Buying from a Breeder While adopting is recommended, some individuals may still choose to purchase a Teacup Pug from a breeder. Avoid buying from a breeder that prioritizes appearance over health or that has a history of breeding dogs with health issues. This can help ensure that the puppy comes from healthy and well-cared-for parents. Whether adopting from a rescue organization or purchasing from a breeder, taking the time to do research and make an informed decision can lead to a happy and healthy life with your new furry friend. Frequently Asked Questions Are teacup pugs real? Yes, teacup pugs are a real breed of dog. Do teacup pugs shed? Yes, teacup pugs do shed. However, their short, fine coats require minimal grooming and shedding is generally not a major issue. What is the difference between a Mini Pug and a regular Pug? How much do teacup pugs cost? How small do Teacup Pugs get? Teacup pugs are typically smaller than regular pugs, but their size can vary greatly depending on the breeding. Some teacup pugs weigh as little as pounds, while others may weigh up to 10 pounds. What is the smallest breed of Pug? The Pug is a breed of dog, and there is no smaller breed of Pug. However, teacup pugs are often bred to be smaller than the average Pug. Are Teacup Pugs generally healthy? Teacup pugs can be prone to a number of health problems, including respiratory issues, dental problems, and joint issues. Final Thoughts In conclusion, the teacup pug is a delightful and charming breed that is perfect for those who want a small, affectionate, and low-maintenance pet. They have a lot of energy, but they also love to cuddle and be near their owners. Despite their small size, they are very sturdy and can handle rough play with children. One thing to keep in mind is that their small size can make them more prone to health issues, such as respiratory problems and joint issues. With proper care and attention, they can make wonderful pets for many years to come. Tamsin De La Harpe Author Tamsin de la Harpe has nearly two decades of experience with dogs in rescue, training, and behavior modification with fearful and aggressive dogs. She has worked closely with veterinarians and various kennels, building up extensive medical knowledge and an understanding of canine health and physiology. She also spent two years in the animal sciences as a canine nutrition researcher, focusing on longevity and holistic healthcare for our four-legged companions. Tamsin currently keeps a busy homestead with an assortment of rescue dogs and three Bullmastiffs. Got Questions? With the Pug dog being the largest of all toy breed dogs, there is confusion among many people as to whether there is an actual breed of the Miniature Pug or "Pocket Pug" The Answer There is no such recognized breed as the Miniature Pug dog, toy, teacup or other term used to denote a smaller than average dog. However, there is a dog that is called a Miniature Pug One dog that is referred to as a mini Pug is a mix of a Chihuahua and a Pug dog. It is also called a Pughuahua or a Chugg sometimes spelled 'Chug'. Some refer to this crossing of two purebreds as 'designer' or 'hybrid' dogs. The result is a canine that looks extremely similar to a Pug, however one can notice a difference in the length of the snout which will be just a bit longer. The body of a matured "mini Pug' will be leaner with longer legs. This will depend on the Pug to Chihuahua gene ratio that is passed down to the puppy; though most will be smaller than a typical Pug. Final adult weight will range from 3 pounds 1. Is This Safe? Yes and no. Many discourage the mixing of purebreds. It does not help toward breeders' goals of maintaining integrity and improving the bloodlines of either purebred. Breeding and subsequent pregnancy can pose risks. If a Chihuahua is chosen as the dam, with a Pug being the sire, the puppies will have larger heads due to Pug genes than otherwise. The breed is already prone to needing C-sections and this sort of crossing only increases the chances of that. Pocket Pugs While a breeder can in fact breed a Chihuahua with a Pug to produce what the public knows as a Miniature Pugs, there are others who claim to have "Pocket Pugs" Some breeders will take 2 runt Pug dogs dogs that are the smallest of their litter and then breed them together, hoping to produce smaller than nature intended dogs, and will dub them teacups. When you take two tiny dogs, that are smaller than the breed standard, these dogs may require more care. Bones may be more fragile, there may be issues with hypoglycemia, etc. To pair two tiny Pugs will only serve to produce more Pug puppies that are too small and with more potential health issues. Others will falsify the pup's age so that one will believe that they are receiving a small Pug when that dog is actually younger than the papers show. As you can imagine, this is highly unethical and is very dangerous for the pup's health. Caring for an Undersized Pug If you have obtained the so-called "Miniature Pug" or "Teacup", care will follow along the guidelines of the care of smaller toy breed dogs such as the Pom or toy Poodle. Because this dog will can be as small as 3 pounds 1. You may also have a Pug that happens to be smaller than average due to Mother Nature. What is considered small? However a pocket pup these sizes may be growing slow. He or she may have a growth spurt later on and reach the standard size. Here are things that you can do to best protect your undersized or mini Pug: When driving in the car, any dog should be fastened in safely with a seat restraint. However, a Miniature Pug will be especially vulnerable to falling off of the car seat during a sudden stop or quick turn and can be injured very easily. Care must be taken when family members are walking around the home. Small children must be aware that this dog can scoot under their feet quickly; if a child or any person stepped on a Miniature Pug by accident, great harm would be done. Having a mini Pug sleep in an owner's bed can have risks. Being so tiny can hold the risk of suffocating under thick blankets or being rolled onto unintentionally during slumber. This smaller type of Pug will not be able to hold their elimination quite as long and time and patience should be given in regard to house training. This very tiny dog will be considered an "underfoot dog"; as they should be. Very tiny pups and dogs can be easily stepped on or tripped over.The weather may affect this Pug more than usual. It is recommended that any small toy breed dog have dog clothing for outdoor elements. A small dog should be protected from the cold, most importantly. Rain gear is also suggested. If your Miniature Pug is a cross between a Pug and a Chihuahua, there may not be any extra health concerns. However if your tiny Pug is a result of unethical breeding, health issues can be many. Did you find this article helpful? All rights reserved. Privacy Policy We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon. What is a teacup dog? How are teacup dogs made? Teacup versions of already small dog breeds include Pugs, Pomeranians, Shih Tzus, and Chihuahuas, amongst others. Puppies are often photographed sitting inside of teacups, to showcase their small size. But how are these teacup versions made? There are a few ways. Teacup dogs are usually produced by breeding runts together to create the smallest version of the dog possible. Unfortunately the small dogs chosen to breed are sometimes also not the healthiest. They may be small because of a birth defect or other medical condition, and that can then be passed on to their offspring. Health risks for tiny versions of dogs can be significant, and breeders often take these risks because they want to rake in the big bucks. Another way a teacup dog might be bred is by mixing smaller breeds. For example, a teacup pug might have a small amount of chihuahua in them, to ensure a smaller size. What is a Teacup Pug, or a Toy Pug? What is the pug breed standard? Glad you asked. What is a very small pug called? In the United States and Canada, the pug breed standard only has one classification — standard. However, people do use certain words to describe purebred pugs that happen to be on the small side. They often just have one goal: to breed smaller and smaller dogs. Common health risks that come with breeding small versions of dogs include: Hydrocephalus: also known as water on the brain, hydrocephalus is a build-up of fluid in the brain. Hypoglycemia: a condition where the blood sugar glucose level is lower than normal. Collapsing Trachea: Tracheal collapse is when rings of cartilage in the trachea begin to flatten out, making it difficult for air to get to the lungs. Patella Luxation: or sliding kneecap, is a condition where the knee cap rides outside the femoral groove when the knee is flexed. They can also be prone to seizures, respiratory issues, and liver shunts. These health issues and complications result in higher vet bills, and dogs with shorter life spans. Share your comments below. Pin for later! This is largely due to their natural charm and loving temperament, which usually extends to children and other pets. Distinctive physical features include a large round head, big dark eyes, and a wrinkled brow. An adult Pug stands between 10 and 13 inches and weighs between 14 and 18 pounds. To be classed as a Miniature Pug they simply need to fall below these parameters when full grown. In some ways, a small dog seems like having a puppy forever. There are three ways to miniaturize a dog breed. The first is to mix a standard breed with a smaller breed, as in the case of the miniature Pug. The second way is to introduce the gene for dwarfism, also known as achondroplasia. The final way is to repeatedly breed from the smallest, or runts, of litters. Mixed Breed Minis Chihuahua Pug mixes can look quite Puglike as puppies, albeit often with shorter muzzles. But their personality will be quite different to your average Pug. Both the Chihuahua and the Pug are already very small dogs. Each of these breeds has more than their share of inherited health problems. The Chihuahua and the Pug have the same amount of teeth as any dog. The problem is that little dogs have little mouths, and their teeth crowd together. This puts the miniature Pug at a high risk for tooth decay and gum disease. Due to their small size, Chihuahuas have trouble giving birth and often require cesarian sections. If a Chihuahua is the dam and the Pug is the sire of a miniature Pug, the mother is very likely to have difficulty producing a litter. Dwarfism Genes A popular method of shrinking a puppy down in size is introducing the gene for dwarfism, which shortens the legs and therefore their height. However breeding for extreme conformational traits has been shown to result in an increased risk of certain diseases. And using the gene for dwarfism has been linked to intervertebral disc disease along with some other painful conditions. Breeding From The Smallest Dogs There are breeders who try to create even smaller dogs by breeding two runt Pugs together. These dogs are referred to as micro mini Pug puppies or pocket Pugs. When dogs are way under the breed standard , they can already possess health issues like hypoglycemia and heart defects. Breeding two extremely small dogs together is very likely to cause even more health issues and is highly unscrupulous. General Pug Problems Any Pug or Pug mix is at risk of the two main health complications this breed is prone too. The endearing short muzzles, wrinkled facial skin, and bulging eyes are associated with brachycephalic airway obstructive syndrome. This makes them prone to seriously compromised respiratory systems. Their short flat faces make it very difficult for them to regulate their body temperature. This means they can overheat very quickly in warm weather. Abnormally shallow eye sockets , which make the eyes protrude, are another issue for brachycephalic breeds. Screw tail is another disease brachycephalic breeds are genetically predisposed to. If the deformity occurs higher in the spine, it can be very painful and cause severe neurological problems. How to Avoid Unscrupulous Breeders Miniature Pug puppies, like many miniature breeds, are a hot commodity, and breeders are getting thousands of dollars for these pint-sized pups. Unfortunately, this is a huge incentive for disreputable breeders to create smaller and smaller dogs. If you see advertisements for micro mini Pugs or teacup Pugs, this is definitely a breeder to avoid. Another red flag is if there is no waiting list and puppies are immediately available for purchase. Ask questions about their breeding practices. Any reputable breeder should be informed about the health issues surrounding miniature breeds. Miniature breeds are usually prone to more health issues. Their unnaturally small size means they also become injured more easily. When you have two small breeds like the Chihuahua and the Pug, who already have many health problems, you can see that this is a dog who is greatly at risk. The only way to stop breeders from creating very small dogs is to not buy them. Perhaps this is a fad that will soon cease to be popular. But in the meantime, dogs specifically bred to be tiny and fragile are suffering.