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Puppies with allergies Physical Traits That Will Impact Your Choice Having a very short muzzle can present some challenges with lifting up and munching on food. English Bulldogs can also struggle sometimes with swallowing their meals, and with taking in sufficient oxygen while they are busy eating. Bulldog puppies often also have teeth that are overly crowded together in their smaller mouths. Rounded, triangular or other unique-shaped kibble are ideal, avoid the traditional large square bits. And if your English Bulldog puppy is still having a tough time with chewing, mix dry kibble with some wet puppy food. Portion sizes Begin by following the amounts listed on the packaging. How often to feed English Bulldog puppies Little and often is always the best approach when feeding a puppy. I start my puppies off with four meals a day, spread evenly over the daylight hours. Best dried food for English Bulldog puppies These three brands make some of the best food for English Bulldog puppies. You will notice each food is enriched with special nutrients, minerals and vitamins. Those that your English Bulldog puppy needs to develop healthily in every way. Royal Canin Bulldog Puppy dry dog food Royal Canin creates tailored recipes for the unique needs of different puppy and dog breeds. This has the same unique S-shaped kibble. Best canned food for English Bulldog puppies The best food for English Bulldog puppy can end up being a combination of dry puppy food mixed with a bit of wet puppy food. It also makes learning how to grab and chew the dry kibble just a bit easier! For both puppies and adult dogs, wet food can be more palatable than dry kibble. It is designed in a complete and balanced nutrition puppy formula. A great choice to mix with the Purina Pro Plan dry kibble, to help your English Bulldog puppy learn how to grasp and chew solid food! There are no artificial ingredients or by-products in this wet food either. Packed with vitamins, lutein, taurine and fish oils, your English Bulldog puppy will have the nutritional support to make the extra work of eating worth it. This is a great choice to mix with Royal Canin Bulldog puppy dry food for a little extra mealtime incentive! Best food for English Bulldog puppies with food allergies Treating food allergies in puppies often requires two phases: allergy testing and a limited ingredient diet. One of the known triggers for food allergies in dogs is grain. So the best puppy food for Bulldogs who have food allergies is often a grain-free diet. Plus DHA and plenty of vitamins and minerals to help with digestive support and immune system health. The kibble is a unique triangle shape which can be easier for your puppy to grab hold of and pick up. Best food for English Bulldog puppies with sensitive stomachs Finding the best dog food for English Bulldog puppies can sometimes be a challenge because of their unique anatomy. This can sometimes lead to digestive disruption. A limited ingredient diet may ease tummy upset, gas, diarrhea and other symptoms of a sensitive stomach. There is very minimal processing and no artificial additives of any kind. The kibble is both round and rectangular, offering a nice mix of shapes to help your English Bulldog puppy grasp it more easily. There is no corn or beef, both of which can be a source of digestive upset in puppies. This limited ingredient puppy food comes in two recipes: chicken and oats or lamb and rice. Both recipes include plenty of glucosamine and chondroitin, calcium and phosphorus. As well as vitamins and minerals to support healthy joints, bones and immune system. However, we selected them for inclusion independently, and all of the views expressed in this article are our own. This food appeals to those who pay attention to where their food comes from. Halo contains fatty acids and antioxidants but no DHA like most puppy foods. This recipe also contains legumes peas , which are ingredients of concern in canine diets, as we mentioned in a previous review. However, as we mentioned earlier, those fancy terms are primarily for advertising, not an actual reflection of the nutritional quality of the food. Also, grain-free diets come with their own cause for concern due to the high legume content. Although pet food makers use various sources for protein, dogs tend not to care whether the meat in their diet is cage-free or what form it comes in whole, meal, or by-product. English Bulldogs are prone to obesity, which is not healthy for any dog but is particularly dangerous for this breed. Flat-faced dogs, including Bulldogs, are prone to breathing issues related to their unusual anatomy. Being overweight makes these problems worse. Most foods come with a suggested feeding guide, but to be safe, ask your vet to help you calculate the ideal daily calorie intake for your bulldog. Your food choice may be somewhat dictated by any emerging medical concerns your pup is experiencing. Allergies, with their accompanying skin and ear problems, are one of the most common issues. We listed several allergy-friendly diets on our list for this reason. Do Your Research Before You Buy A Puppy Yes, you want to feed your English Bulldog puppy a healthy diet, but food can only do so much if your little dog comes with a host of inherited medical conditions. Our best value pick, Purina One , is both cost-effective and convenient. Royal Canin Bulldog features breed-specific nutrition. Merrick Classic Healthy Grains is free of ingredients from China and loaded with nutritious extras perfect for the Bulldog. We hope our reviews of these puppy diets help you navigate the crowded landscape of the pet food industry as you search for the best option for your wrinkly baby dog. She got her first cat at 5 years old and at 14, she started working for her local veterinarian. Elizabeth spent more than 20 years working as a veterinary nurse before stepping away to become a stay-at-home parent to her daughter. Now, she is excited to share her hard-earned knowledge literally--she has scars with our readers. When not writing, she enjoys reading, watching all sports but especially soccer, and spending time outdoors with her family.Read more Advertisement. The answer, however, is surprisingly simple. Commercial food itself is not necessarily the healthiest way to feed our pets, it is the most convenient way to feed our pets. Of commercial food available there is certainly a range of quality. We recommend that you do not use the very cheap supermarket brands. The more expensive super market brands are ok, especially if you are balancing it with plenty of quality home cooking. The best commercial foods include the following: Hills Probably our best choice Royal Canin Eukanuba Advance Which of these should you feed? The most important thing when choosing a commercial food for your pet is that he or she must like it, and it must agree with them. Canned versus dry: Another myth! There is no difference in quality between canned food or dry food, just the quality of the actual brand. This, to us, is an indication of a poor quality food. Open a can of Hills and there is no bad smell. The food itself is quite firm and looks good, this is an indication of a high quality food. So if you are using better quality foods, by all means give your pet a mix of dry and canned. They will love the choice and variety. Pets, like us, should have variety in their diet for both physical and mental health! Home cooking and table scraps, the good stuff! Ideally lamb ribs minimum portions and never a single rib , or lamb necks for dogs, and chicken wings or necks for cats The above in itself is very good however in addition to this, supplements such as a few sardines once or twice weekly, the odd egg, and vitamised finely blended green leafy vegetables such as spinach or silver beet are fantastic. Whether you are using home cooking entirely or just adding the occasional correct table scraps to whatever commercial food you are using, keep some of the following suggestions in mind: If your pet is a little prone to weight gain, just like us humans, watch the carbohydrates and fats. The biggest mistake people make is giving their overweight pets rice, pasta, bread and potatoes. These carbs go straight to the waist line. Lean meats of any sort are great. Do not feed spicy foods or rich foods, but lean meats. If using commercial foods, ideally use an appropriate life stage food such as puppy, light for overweight individuals, senior etc. If not using a quality commercial puppy food, make sure to add a calcium supplement for puppies, unless you are feeding quality bones times weekly. Lamb ribs never a single rib and necks times weekly is actually a better source of balanced calcium and phosphorous, so supplements are only needed for puppies on home cooked diets without bones. Our strong recommendation, feed bones to puppies from 6 weeks of age. There are lots of myths about feeding supplements such as yeasts, seaweed, vitamins etc. Give your pet a varied diet with lots of natural raw meaty bones and table scraps. It is very important to keep in mind that English bulldogs are somewhat different to most breeds. And correct feeding technics are of utmost importance during and after their full development. Your English bulldog puppy does not know anything about nutrition. He only knows what tastes good. It is up to you to know what and how to feed your buddy, so he will get everything he needs to stay healthy and happy. Best Diet for English Bulldogs Best Nutrients for English Bulldog Puppies Your English bulldog puppy needs proteins, carbohydrates, fats, vitamins and minerals for uptime growth and health Your puppy uses proteins for growth and repair of muscles, bones and other bodily tissues. They are also used for production of antibodies, enzymes and hormones. Vitamins and minerals participate in muscle and nerve function, bone growth, healing, metabolism and fluid balance. English bulldogs also need plenty of fresh, clean water. Adequate water intake also helps prevent formation of urinary stones, which is a potential problem for this breed. Food Brands for English Bulldogs We recommend to new English bulldog families to avoid drastic changes in the food of the puppies. We recommend the puppy keeps using the same food the breeder used before delivery. In our case, we like to use Royal Canin Bulldog Puppy. We have used several other brands over the years. And, so far, Royal Canin has worked great for our puppies and adults. When feeding our English bulldog puppy, we take into consideration several factors. Such as the amount of protein and fat they should receive in the first few weeks of age. There are other brands in the market that may provide the same or similar amount of protein and fat. However, you should consider important things such as ingredients of the food, allergies it might cause. As professional breeders of English bulldogs, we always let our clients know about the food we give to our puppies. In addition to other supplements that we use. That way, the new owners of the English bulldog puppies can continue with the same process. But, we do understand that a lot of times people may decide to go a different route. Both for the type of food and feeding technics. Sometimes, based on what they may consider, it is correct or better for their English bulldogs. Or perhaps after receiving veterinarian advice. Our recommendation is to continue to use the one we use. Feeding Frequency for English bulldogs The number of times you feed an English bulldog puppy is also very important. The younger the puppy is, the more often one has to feed the puppy. For breeders, it is a lot of work due. Mainly due to the fact that we have to care for the puppies since day one. We have to rigorously continue feeding them at least every two 2 hours. Usually, when we release our puppies; they will be at least eight 8 weeks old. And they will be eating solid food. At this stage, it is recommended to feed the puppies three 3 times a day. Once in the morning, afternoon, and early evening. Sometimes due to a matter of schedule or advice from friends, breeders or veterinarians; families will feed the puppy two 2 times a day. This will make things a little easy for the family training the English bulldog. If this is the case, the correct amount of food should be provided to the puppy. Always based on their body weight as well as the age of the puppy. A feeding guide or table should be available to you on the bag of food you use. In most cases it is recommended for an English bulldog to be on the puppy formula for the first year of life and then a gradual change to an adult formula containing the same nutrients should be given. It is important to keep in mind that if you as an English bulldog puppy owner encounter any issues with your dog such as allergies or other common illnesses among bulldogs, then veterinarian advice should be taken. Should I give supplements to English Bulldog Puppies? This food will provide the puppy with the nutrients needed to have a long, healthy life. But as breeders, we use other things to supplement the diet of our English bulldogs so that we can keep them away as much as possible from common illnesses among them. The use of the right type of supplements from an early stage in the development of the dog is key when raising English bulldogs than with a lot of other breeds. This is due to the fact that English bulldogs have a weaker skeletal system and a lower immune system than other breeds. Having the presence of supplements will help the puppy to develop into a healthier adult. Eggs, cod liver oil, chicken breast, some vegetables are also great for them. Along with the food we use, we also recommend the multi vitamin NuVet. It helps with a lot of the common issues the English bulldog breed encounters during their life. For detail information on NuVet and how to order instructions, please visit our website and click on the link on top that says NuVet. If you think you still have questions about the right food to feed your English bulldog puppy or the correct supplement or multi vitamins you can use; please feel free to contact us. Remember that English bulldogs are the best breed in the world; therefor quality food, treats and supplements are ideal when having them as pets. Share this post.

Use tab to navigate through the menu items. How Much to Feed a Bernedoodle One of the most common questions we get is how much to feed their puppy, teenager and adult bernedoodle. Great question and unfortunately many do not understand the needs and requirements of an F1 standard bernedoodle bernese mountain dog x standard poodle that has Bernese mountain dogs in them. So to expect a bernedoodle to have a waist line like a Great Dane will put your bernedoodle into hunger mode and if young will lead to potential behavioral challenges and this is a time when they need calories due to them being a fast growing mixed breed. We shoot for always having a little bit of food left over and we let them have access to food for about minutes but this can be adjusted based on your schedule. We only do this for the breakfast. We will begin adding about tablespoons of different types of lightly cooked meats can go raw as well and sardines to the above topper along with a little bit of cut up or shredded carrots, blueberries and can add other dog friendly fruits and veggies but make sure you check before using. We would also add dog-based salmon oil according to the instructions about a tsp. Often in the morning we would do sweet potato, yogurt, and a meat and dinner some of the other ingredients. Lunch we keep plain. Be sure you are washing your food and water bowls once per day with hot soapy water. Lastly we recommend starting with TLC adult all life stages dog food for large growing breeds like bernedoodles and even for the puppies. The adult food exceeds AAFCO requirements for puppies and has glucosamine and chondroitin which is important for joint development. Many vets compare bernedoodles to what they consider a typical healthy dog build high thin waist line, etc but that is not the case for F1 standard bernedoodles as they will have a thicker build. Recent Posts. Frequency Of Feeding Bernedoodle puppies have different nutritional requirements compared to adult dogs. Puppies need more frequent meals as their stomachs are smaller, and they require regular energy to fuel their growth. Generally, Bernedoodle puppies that are two to six months of age typically eat three times a day. It is essential to maintain a consistent feeding schedule when raising a Bernedoodle puppy. Choosing The Right Type Of Food When it comes to choosing the right type of food for your Bernedoodle puppy, there are several factors to consider. First and foremost, you will want to make sure that the food you select is appropriate for their size and nutritional needs. Soaking Kibble For Easier Digestion One of the recommended feeding guidelines for Bernedoodle puppies is soaking their kibble in raw milk. Soaking kibble can make it easier for them to digest and absorb nutrients from their food. When puppies eat dry kibble, they tend to swallow large pieces whole, which can lead to digestive issues such as bloating and constipation. For example, by the time Bernedoodles are weeks old, they will be eating one raw meal per day and two kibble meals per day soaked in raw milk. Raw milk contains probiotics that can help promote healthy gut flora and improve overall digestion. It is also high in protein, calcium, vitamin D and other essential vitamins and minerals that support growth development at this stage of life. Factors To Consider When Feeding A Bernedoodle Puppy When feeding a Bernedoodle puppy, age, weight, activity level, and nutritional requirements should all be taken into account to ensure that they are getting the proper amount of food for their growth and development. Age As your Bernedoodle puppy grows and develops, their age plays a crucial role in determining the appropriate feeding regimen. Each stage of growth has specific nutritional requirements to ensure healthy development and weight maintenance. For example, at eight weeks to 12 weeks old, these fluffy pups need about one cup of food three times a day to fuel their rapid growth. Around four months of age, it is important for owners to establish a regular feeding schedule with meals served at consistent times each day. This helps develop good eating habits and prevents potential gastrointestinal issues caused by erratic meal timings. Weight One of the most important factors to consider when determining how much to feed your Bernedoodle puppy is their weight. Activity Level The activity level of a Bernedoodle puppy plays a significant role in determining the appropriate amount and type of food they require. Puppies with higher energy levels will burn more calories throughout the day, thus needing increased caloric intake to support their growth and development. A common rule for puppies is providing 5 minutes of exercise per month of age, times per day; this can help you estimate how much food your pooch needs. Additionally, consulting with your veterinarian about tailoring meal portions can further aid in promoting healthy weight gain and avoiding overfeeding issues. These adorable pups require high-quality, animal-based protein in their diets for optimal growth and development. Additionally, Bernedoodle puppies need higher amounts of calories than adult dogs due to their growth stage. As they grow older, the caloric requirement will decrease gradually before reaching adulthood at around two or three years old. It is recommended to weigh your Bernedoodle at least once a month, preferably more frequently during their growth stage. Moreover, regular weigh-ins can also prevent obesity, which is a common problem among dogs. Overfeeding or underfeeding can lead to various health issues such as joint problems, heart disease, and diabetes. Here are some signs of overfeeding or underfeeding your Bernedoodle puppy: Weight gain or loss: Sudden and drastic weight changes can indicate an imbalance in their diet. Ensure that you keep track of their weight regularly. Low energy levels: Overfeeding can lead to lethargy and low energy levels, while underfeeding can make them restless. Digestive issues: Overfeeding may cause digestive problems such as diarrhea, vomiting, or constipation. Behavioural changes: Overfed puppies may show lack of interest in activities, become irritable or overly aggressive, while underfed puppies tend to become anxious and overly active. Dull coat: Both overfed and underfed puppies may have a dull-looking coat due to poor nutrition. Increased thirst and urination: Overfeeding can lead to excessive water intake resulting in frequent peeing while underfeeding can cause the opposite effect where they drink less water than required. Reduced appetite: Underfed puppies often lose interest in food altogether leading them with a reduced appetite. As a general rule of thumb, the amount of exercise should be limited to 5 minutes per month of age until they reach maturity. Overfeeding can lead to obesity, which can adversely affect their health and cause other problems down the line. Also, be sure to measure out the exact portion sizes recommended for each meal as free-feeding or guessing can lead to overconsumption. Importance Of High-Quality Ingredients Choosing the right type of food for your Bernedoodle puppy is crucial, and one of the most important factors in ensuring their health and wellbeing is selecting high-quality ingredients. High-quality dog food should provide your pup with a balanced diet that includes all the necessary nutritional requirements, such as protein, vitamins, minerals, healthy fats and carbohydrates. When choosing a dog food brand for Bernedoodles puppies or dogs, look out for products that use real meat such as chicken or lamb rather than by-products. Additionally, avoid foods that contain artificial preservatives and fillers like corn gluten meal or wheat flour. This dog food brand also has wholesome grains like brown rice and barley which are easy to digest sources of complex carbohydrates; it maintains energy levels throughout long playtime sessions spent outdoor exercising while supporting digestive health thanks to fiber content from fruits and vegetables plus probiotic strains supplements found within each kibble bite-sized piece they consume. Consider the benefits and drawbacks of dry, wet, and raw food options to make an informed decision. Type of Food. You have done your research, and are ready to take the leap. It is no surprise that many people are adding Bernedoodles to their families. This large breed puppy has a friendly temperament and a fierce loyalty. We personally got a Bernedoodle last year, and she just turned one. I remember the day we brought her home trying to figure out how much to feed a Bernedoodle puppy. As a new puppy parent, the last thing you want to do is over or under feed your new pet, so hopefully this post serves as helpful for you with your new Bernedoodle puppy. This post may contain affiliate links All about Bernedoodles Bernedoodles are adaptable, making them a wonderful choice for novice or veteran owners. They are smart and protective dogs. This makes them great for young ages. If you are just doing your beginning research, the Bernedoodle breed is a combination of a Bernese Mountain Dog and a Poodle. They inherit their intelligence from the Poodle parent. It is obvious that the goofy traits are those of the Bernese Mountain Dog parent. These parent breeds create a perfect family dog. Their size is determined by the Poodle parent. They are broken down into size categories. Bernedoodles can be toy, mini or standard. One thing that is pretty surprising is that the different sizes do not typically affect their food choices during puppyhood. Bernedoodle puppies are known to love younger children. They are playful and gentle as a lifelong companion. Bernedoodles are smart but are also silly. This trait makes them a good choice for all ages. As a mom of four kids, this was very important to me. If you want to learn more about owning Bernedoodle — I have a whole blog post here with all the details on what is like to truly own a Bernedoodle puppy. How much to Feed a Bernedoodle Puppy As you prepare to become a bernedoodle parent, their growth and development are important to you. You are undoubtedly concerned about health issues or health problems that may arise. Did you know that there is a big difference between puppy food and adult dog food? It may be hard to know where to start, but I will break it down for you! In their full size, they are big dogs. At their full height, they are also very tall. Their looks can be deceiving. Even though they are larger dogs, they may not need more food than a typical dog. You want to be prepared with this knowledge before you decide if this dog is right for you. How do you ensure a healthy lifestyle for your pup? It is important to learn how much food is necessary in their different life stages. The Reasoning Behind the Puppy Food New dog owners have several choices to make when it comes to food. It can be overwhelming, but there are a few simple things to keep in mind for a balanced diet. Your main goal is a healthy, happy dog! Adult dogs and puppies have different nutritional needs. Puppy food is specifically designed for growing pups. As they grow, they are burning more calories. This means that they need more calories per pound of body weight to sustain their developing bodies. Bernedoodle puppies need more fatty acids and high protein diets. These puppies complete a majority of their growth within two or three years. In these first few years, they will need higher amounts of protein calories. Veterinarians will say that it is, however, not toxic for your puppy to eat adult dog food. They may suggest that you do your best to stick to these separate kinds of dog food for optimal health. This type of food is typically referred to as adult maintenance for day-to-day living. It should be clearly labeled on the packages. Once they have reached their adult weight, they can maintain the health benefits from their simpler diet. The transition from puppy food to adult dog food should be seamless. Bernedoodle dogs are laid back and not picky! Most of the time, they will eat what is put in front of them. Now that we have covered the difference between the types of dog food, we will get right to specific amounts for Bernedoodle puppies. Our Penny had a very sensitive stomach as a puppy, and we have stuck with this puppy food and been very happy with the choice. She seems to be happy and thriving on it. Specific amounts of Food for Bernedoodle Puppies Young puppies that are two to six months of age typically eat three different times a day. The daily amount of puppy food depends on weeks of age and how much they weigh. It will also depend on how much exercise they receive. I will break that down specifically. But, it is important to keep in mind that their food intake will increase as they grow. At around six months of age, Bernedoodle puppies can eat twice a day. This schedule may continue for adult Bernedoodles. They are growing very quickly. Setting your puppy up with proper nutrients will benefit growth, brain health and a long lifespan. It is helpful to stick to designated eating times for your puppy. Do not forget that It is a good choice to check the directions of the healthy dog food you purchase. On the back of each package, there should be a suggested serving size. As always, contact your veterinarian if you are concerned about how your Bernedoodle is developing. Interestingly enough, adult Bernedoodle dogs tend to only eat one serving a day. They can finish their larger amount of food in one sitting. When they reach an even older age it may be difficult for them to finish this serving in one feeding. It is helpful to spread these servings out for older dogs while it gets harder to finish a meal. At this point you will be in tune to what your Bernedoodle dog needs. Bernedoodles are known for their love of food! It is easy to over-feed your puppy. A general rule is to check their ribs. You should be able to feel the ribs easily but not be able to see them at a glance. This is a great way to check on your Bernedoodle dogs and their weight gain. It can be tempting to feed your pup food from the table. This seems innocent but can create poor eating habits down the road. It can also disrupt their digestive systems. You have worked hard to create a healthy diet and want to keep it that way. If a Bernedoodle puppy is hungry, they will eat from their designated spot and will not need anything extra. Do not forget that although the feeding schedule is important, we cannot forget about giving our dogs plenty of exercise! Long walks will encourage a healthy life for your Bernedoodle and for you. Overall health includes diet and exercise. This is another reason why Bernedoodle puppies are a wonderful family dog. They have plenty of energy to keep up with toddlers. It is also a helpful way to encourage your teens to get outside and away from their technology. Bernedoodle Puppy Food — Dog Food Options With a growing amount of dog food brands, it can be hard to pick the best food. As you browse the isles, it is obvious to note that wet food is more expensive than dry food. However, they are both great options! The standard Bernedoodle loves to eat and they are such large breeds that they can eat a lot. Fortunately for dog owners, many dogs love dry food. Wet or raw dog food has less carbohydrates than dry food and can be more hydrating. Many veterinarians suggest that either kind is a great choice! I would find a brand and type that fits into your grocery budget. Bernedoodles tend to eat what they are given. If only this trait would rub off on the human puppies we have. There is nothing wrong with the dry kibble choice! Each type of dog food has the nutrients it needs to help your dog grow. The biggest difference between dry and wet dog food may be the way it is digested. Keep in mind — that as with kids and yourself there may be adjusting to find what is best for your puppy. Start with a small bag the first time you purchase puppy food, and if you are changing them from what they were on at a breeder or in a shelter mix the new food with the previous food for a slower change on their gut. Now that you have been prepared with nutrition knowledge, you are ready to welcome that pup in to the family. Giving them proper puppy and adult dog food will help create a healthy dog. More than food, your Bernedoodle needs love and affection. This will not be difficult at all. Bernedoodles are easy to create a bond with. I know that you will love your Bernedoodle puppy as much as my family does! If you have any questions feel free to leave them in the comments below, and be sure to pin the photo below to find this post later. Related Posts:. This is important for all dogs but especially for a growing puppy. Protein is what essentially determines the quality of dog food. When you read the label, you will see one or more of the following protein types: Meat protein. As the name implies, this type of protein comes from other animals. It is usually made up of muscle or organ meat and is the closest protein to human quality. It is superior to other types of protein for dogs. Animal by-products. This protein type is made up of the parts of the animal that are not included in meat protein. It can be made of hair, hoofs, lips, and even eyelashes. Vegetable and grain proteins. These are mostly soy- or corn-based. The goal is to provide a diet with more animal protein than veggie protein, which you can do by choosing a food with at least two animal sources of protein listed within the first five ingredients on the bag. Carbohydrates Just like humans, Bernedoodle puppies get energy and dietary fiber from carbs. Many different types of carbs can be found within puppy food. High-quality carbs include rice, barley, and oats, while lower-quality carbs include corn or wheat. Fats and Preservatives Of all the ingredients in puppy food, fats are the most expensive. Because they are harder to extract and more challenging to preserve. The best usable fats for puppies are those from chicken, sunflower, or canola oil. Other fats you might see include fish oil and lactose-free dairy fats. Remember that vitamins are nothing more than organic additives that help give the puppy anything it needs that it is not getting from its food. If the food is of high quality, then there should not be a need for a significant amount of calories coming from vitamins. That said, some vitamins should be included within the food to allow your Bernedoodle puppy to digest it properly. There are two main types of vitamins: Fat-Soluble. Examples include A, D, E, and K, and these types of vitamins are stored in the liver and fatty tissue. Water Soluble. Examples include B and C. You will find plenty of foods with long lists of added vitamins. This might look impressive, but, again, if the food is of high quality, then less is more when it comes to vitamin additives. Consider the Ease of Obtaining Puppy Food Another factor to consider is how easily you can get a food. When it comes to ease of access, you will find three main options: Brands you can find anywhere. These are the most popular brands you have likely heard of, and they can be found at just about any grocery store, big-box store, and even some drug stores. These are also generally the least expensive options. However, they often choose meat from 4-D categories, which means the animals that make up the protein are dead, dying, or diseased. It is also common for the fats used in these brands to be of lower quality and not as easily digestible, which might require your Bernedoodle puppy to eat more to get the nutrients they need. Premium brands. Historically, they were found in specialty pet stores and animal hospitals. They generally use a higher grade of meat and higher quality fats, which means that puppies generally need less of these foods than those that are more commercially available. Holistic foods. These are only found in specialty pet stores or online. These are the cream of the crop and generally have human-grade meats and highly digestible fats. Even the grain carb mix will be made from high-quality foods. You will find many of these to be free from hormones and steroids. Of course, this quality comes with a high price, and they can be harder to find. Once again, the high quality means less food is needed compared to lower-priced options. Balancing Cost and Quality Not everyone can effort to pay for holistic food. The key is to find the best quality you can for the price you can afford. You do not need to spend that much money to keep your puppy in good health. Adult Bernedoodle Nutrition As your Bernedoodle ages, it no longer needs the extra calories for growth. Most dogs will become less active once they leave the puppy stage between 18 months and two years, which further reduces their need for calories. The type of Bernedoodle affects its total expected weight: Standard Bernedoodles get to pounds Miniature Bernedoodles get to pounds Tiny Bernedoodles get to 10 — 24 pounds If you are not sure how much your particular dog is likely to end up weighing, you can talk to your vet. Smaller Bernedoodles might be at their adult weight by six or seven months old, while standard Bernedoodles often grow well beyond 12 months of age. Once again, look at the package for its breakdown of nutrients. The two main options for adult dogs are adult maintenance all-stages. Adult maintenance is generally the better choice for dogs that are overweight or not as active, while all-stage food contains extra nutrients for more active dogs. Senior Bernedoodle Nutrition As your Bernedoodle becomes a senior dog, its nutritional requirements will change. Many senior dogs deal with a wealth of health issues , including obesity, arthritis, and cognitive issues. Meanwhile, they can also suffer from appetite loss. The opposite is actually true. A healthy senior Bernedoodle will need more protein to fuel their muscle. As dogs age, they begin to lose muscle mass — sometimes so much that they cannot move around with assistance. Find the Right Calorie Balance Younger senior Bernedoodles are often overweight, but as they get older, they tend to become underweight. You will need to know the calorie content of the food you are feeding and adjust it accordingly if your dog gains or loses weight when you do not want them to. Because many of the elements that you want a lot of — or none of — vary widely or are not listed at all on regular senior dog food. For example, a dog with heart or kidney disease should have low sodium food, but the amount of sodium on the most popular senior dog food brands ranges from 33 to mg per kcal. Likewise, a dog with kidney disease would need a diet that is low in phosphorous, but no dog food label notes how much phosphorous is in a diet. If your senior Bernedoodle develops a health condition that requires strict control over specific elements of their diet, a prescription diet might be the only place to achieve that goal. You Will Need to Find a Food That Your Dog Likes When it comes to feeding younger Bernedoodles, unless your dog is particularly picky, you can likely feed them whatever is healthiest, and they will be happy to eat it. The same cannot be said for senior dogs, who often do not have a healthy appetite. In addition to loss of appetite, senior Bernedoodles might have dental issues that make it hard to chew their food, or digestive issues that make them uncomfortable after eating certain food types. At this stage, you might choose canned or soft food that they enjoy eating more. You can also help your dog eat more easily by feeding them on a raised platform or while they are lying down so that they do not have to bend down. Bernedoodle Treats When your Bernedoodle is still a puppy, you will need treats for training. You will need to experiment to determine what this is for your puppy. One of the most popular options is freeze-dried liver. Your dog might prefer small pieces of chicken or other proteins. For training, treats should be very small so that your dog can quickly eat them and move on to the next part of the training. If you are training for an extended period and offering a significant number of treats, then you should reduce the amount of kibble you give your puppy to balance the calories they received via treats. As your dog grows, you might still want to treat them from time to time, but you will not be offering them as many treats as you did when they were training. Feeding Schedules for Bernedoodles The amount of food you feed your Bernedoodle will depend on the food you choose for them. Look at the bag to see the recommended number of cups. If you have a puppy, there will be a chart with weeks or months of age along with weight. Find where your puppy fits and feed based on that amount. Note that these are just starting places. Your food might suggest 3 cups of food, but if you find that your puppy is constantly hungry and not gaining weight as quickly as they should, then they might need more. Feeding Frequency Until six months of age, puppies should eat three times per day. After they reach this mark, feeding them twice per day is recommended for the rest of their life. However, if you cannot feed your puppy three times per day, trust that your puppy will adapt. The number of times you feed them is not nearly as important as feeding them the correct amount. If your lifestyle allows for it, feed your puppy or dog at the same time every day. This helps comfort the pup because it will learn that food is coming. It also helps keep their digestion regular and makes it easier for you to notice if your dog is eating more or less than they usually do. If their appetite varies slightly from day to day, there is likely nothing wrong. However, if your Bernedoodle suddenly loses its appetite or changes its diet preferences for several weeks, it is time to call the vet. Post navigation. My Bernedoodle is 18 months old and around 60 lbs. She currently eats 1 cup three times per day and has maintained a healthy weight. Bernedoodles perfectly pair the loyal and laid-back Bernese Mountain dog with the intelligent, low-shedding Poodle. Their gentle but playful nature makes them a popular choice for families with children, but even active seniors and singles can enjoy the company of a Bernedoodle. Also referred to as the Bernese Mountain Poo, Bernedoodles love to eat! Because of this, many new owners have concerns about whether their Bernedoodle is getting enough food. Variations in breed types toy, mini, and full-size , as well as the specific activity levels, age, and health of each dog, can further complicate the feeding time and schedule required for optimal health. Gain more insight on feeding your Bernedoodle in this guide , including the amount, type, and frequency of food. Dogs need a well-balanced diet to support a healthy immune system and proper growth like all living things. As omnivorous animals, dogs need a diet of animal and plant proteins. Malnutrition, or failing to supply any nutrients, can result in serious health complications for a Bernedoodle. Protect your pup with a varied, high-quality diet rich in protein, grains, vitamins, and minerals. Each has its own set of pros and cons. Wet dog food can ease the transition for a weaning puppy, but the prolonged feeding of wet foods particularly canned versions can lead to digestive problems. Dogs who consume a diet primarily of wet foods also tend to have more dental problems, such as plaque buildup and tooth decay. While you can counteract this effect by offering whole bones to your dog, it may not be sufficient in helping them avoid dental issues. Kibble dry dog food is generally the preferred feeding method for dogs, particularly among large dog breed owners. It is often because kibble tends to be less expensive per pound than other dog foods. Kibble also typically lasts longer than raw or cooked food, so there is less potential for waste. The hardness of kibble can also protect a dog from dental issues, as it helps to wear away plaque, the leading cause of tooth decay. If you choose this feeding method for your Bernedoodle, take some time to research and compare the various brands. Pay special attention to major recalls. Opt for a trusted and reputable brand. Consider using dog brand comparison sites for an in-depth look at the ingredients. Avoid by-products and focus, instead, on kibbles that contain mostly whole-food ingredients. Cooked and raw dog food diets have emerged as a trend over the past few years. These diets typically involve the preparation of human foods like liver, eggs, cottage cheese, sweet potatoes, chicken, and beef cuts. However, there are commercial selections available for purchase. The potentially large size of a Bernedoodle can make raw and cooked food diets cost-prohibitive for some owners. Even those that can afford it should talk to their vet. Should it be administered incorrectly, a raw or cooked diet can lead to serious nutrient deficiencies. This can lead to long-term and even life-threatening health problems for your Bernedoodle. Regardless of the age or size of your Bernedoodle, a feeding schedule should be used to prevent overeating and obesity. The only exception is when the pup is weaning during its first three months. Grazing can be permitted during this stage to help them adjust to regular dog food. When Bernedoodle puppies reach four months of age, owners should move to a regular feeding schedule. The pup should be fed at the same time each day, three times daily. At around six months of age, the growth of a Bernedoodle begins to slow, and obesity becomes more of a risk. To minimize it, Bernedoodle puppies should be transitioned to twice-daily feedings once they reach six months of age. Older senior dogs may sometimes need to return to grazing, as they may struggle to eat their entire serving in one sitting. Just be sure to watch your dog for excessive weight gain. Bernedoodles tend to be voracious eaters, so they can quickly become overweight when allowed to graze. Puppies can be especially prone to bone problems if permitted to gain weight too quickly, so watch them closely for any signs of excessive eating. Also, be sure to feed your Bernedoodle the right amount of food. Larger Bernedoodle dogs will need more. However, the amount of dog food should not be determined through charts alone. They are only guidelines. Health, age, exercise and activity levels, and sub-breed can alter the amount of food a Bernedoodle needs — sometimes significantly. Healthy Bernedoodle pups can eat as much as three times the food as an adult dog of the same weight. As such, Bernedoodle owners should start at the minimum amount of food and then monitor the dog for weight loss and weight gain. An observation journal can help you note small changes over time while also allowing you to keep track of how much your Bernedoodle is eating. Dogs getting the appropriate amount of food usually have visible ribs and a tucked tummy. This is when viewed from the side. When viewed from above, they should have a visible waist. If your dog continues to appear underweight, despite increases in food intake. You may need to schedule a trip to the vet to rule out parasites or underlying health conditions. Should you start noticing a rounded stomach, a waist disappears when viewing your dog from the side. Reduce their food amount slightly until their shape returns. You can also take your Bernedoodle out for more exercise to reduce their weight. Bernedoodle Treats — Yes, No, or Sometimes? Treats are often used to train young Bernedoodles. Of course, senior dogs love treats, too! Yet, because Bernedoodles can be prone to overeating, avoiding excessive treat giving with this breed is important. Bernedoodles rarely mind. Give only limited amounts of commercial dog and protein-dense treats to minimize the risk of obesity in your Bernedoodle. Bones with marrow should only be given on occasion. Keeping Your Bernedoodle Healthy Diet is not the only health consideration that Bernedoodles owners need to make, as it is not the only pillar to good health. Depending on their age or specific health needs, your dog may also need additional vitamins or supplements; your vet can advise you further. Such as malnutrition, tooth decay, excessive weight gain, sluggishness, unusual shedding, or other alarming symptoms. Regular check-ups and vaccinations are also important for ensuring good health in your pet. From puppy to senior, you can keep your Bernedoodle happy and healthy. Whereas by feeding them a well-rounded, high-quality diet rich in nutrients, vitamins, and minerals. Good health allows them to be a loved member of your family for years to come. Below is a Pinterest friendly photo…. Sharing is caring! They are smart dogs, family-friendly, and very loyal. They can vary in size from 10 pounds to 50 pounds because poodles come in different sizes toy, miniature and standard. Their personalities can vary quite a bit as well, making each Bernedoodle unique! It really depends on which parent breed they take after. They can differ even more the original litter is bred with other Poodles or Bernese Mountain Dogs. Additionally, the Bernedoodle is a newer breed so people are still learning about them with each generation. They usually have curly or at least wavy coats that tend to shed less and cause fewer problems for allergy sufferers. They do not like to be left alone and can develop separation anxiety. Good training can help to prevent this, however, and this quality makes them wonderful canine friends anyway. Feeding Your Bernedoodle Puppy Thorough knowledge of puppy feeding can help deter bad behavior and potential health issues down the road as your puppy blossoms into an adult. Your puppy needs a well-balanced diet just like a human baby. It should contain a combination of proteins from both plant and meat sources, as well as some grains. Also, puppy food and adult dog food are not the same. Puppies require more nutrients and more calories than adult dogs because they are growing so quickly. You can choose between dry food, canned food, cooked food, or raw food. Dry and canned foods are designed to provide all of the nutrients that your puppy needs to grow and be healthy. There are also size-specific food types you can choose from that contain different nutrient amounts or smaller kibble. As puppies transition from nursing to puppy food, it may be easier to feed them a mixture of wet and dry food. This will help them adjust to eating just kibble as they get older. Bernedoodle puppies tend to overeat, so they must be kept on a feeding schedule. Puppies younger than four months can be allowed to graze as needed as they transition from nursing to puppy food. At four months old, Bernedoodle puppies should be fed three times per day, at the same times each day. At six months old, you should transition your Bernedoodle puppy to feedings twice per day instead of three times. Be sure to feed your Bernedoodle puppy early enough in the evening that he has time to digest and go potty or he may have accidents overnight. The amount of food you feed your Bernedoodle puppy can vary greatly based on the size of poodle the Bernese was bred with toy, mini, or standard. Smaller Bernedoodle puppies, those that were bred from toy or miniature poodles, will require much less food than the larger Bernedoodle puppies. Keep an eye on the shape of your puppy. You should be able to see his ribs slightly and his tummy should tuck upward. You should not be able to see his hips, however. Begin feeding your Bernedoodle puppy the smallest amount for their weight, but if he looks underweight, increase that amount gradually. If he looks overweight, decrease his food intake. The first step to determine how much to feed your puppy is to figure out approximately what your puppy will weigh once he is an adult. The following chart show approximately how much to feed your puppy based on weight and age range: Bernedoodle Puppy Feeding Chart 6 weeks to 3 months 4 — 5 months. Totay How much should I feed my puppy? Visit this link to find where you can purchase this food near you: Diamond Naturals Website It is good to let your puppy have free-choice access to his food for the first week of being re-homed. After that, we recommend them being on a schedule of eating four times a day, offering as much as they will eat in the time frame of seven minutes. As your puppy gets older, he can be fed less times per day 3x at 12 weeks old, and then cut it down to twice a day. Please read the article below by Dr. Becker and see condition chart. The article is talking mostly about large breeds growing too fast, but this can happen in the doodles, too. After all, they have large breeds in their genetics. Becker By Dr. Becker Serious Health Problems Often Develop in Puppies Who Grow Too Fast There are several factors that contribute to the skeletal development of puppies, including genetics, exercise, trauma and nutrition. One of the most important factors is nutrition. The good news is that nutrition is something you, as a pet owner, have complete control over. Many large and giant breed dogs are genetically predisposed to grow too fast. Unfortunately, humans continue to help the process along by feeding inappropriate, high-growth pet food formulas to these puppies. Rapid bone growth can result in structural defects of the bones, which makes the skeleton even less able to bear the increasing body weight. Also, big dogs have less bone density than smaller breeds, meaning their bones are more fragile and prone to injury. Overfeeding a puppy during the active, rapid growth period right after weaning leads to skeletal problems. The goal for large and giant breed puppies should be controlled growth — not overgrowth. The size a dog ultimately becomes is primarily dictated by genetics. But the time it takes a dog to reach full adult size can be controlled to a large degree by nutrition. Protein is Not the Culprit — Excess Calories and Minerals Are Researchers have studied the diets of large breed dogs for over 30 years to understand the link between improper nutrition and skeletal problems. Studies have repeatedly concluded dietary protein levels have no effect on the development of skeletal problems in large and giant breed dogs. But still today, many breeders of large dogs, owners and even some veterinarians will tell you protein is the problem, even though there is no evidence to prove it. Protein excess is not the problem. The elements of nutrition that have been scientifically proven to negatively impact skeletal development in puppies are excessive calories and high or unbalanced mineral content, specifically calcium and phosphorus i. Absorption, of course, occurs through the intestines. The higher the calcium and mineral content of the diet, the greater the level of absorption and assimilation into the developing bone structure of the puppy. This can disturb the natural process of bone growth and result in lesions in the skeleton and joints. High mineral concentrations in the diet can quickly cause bone mineral changes that play into skeletal abnormalities in a growing puppy. These include hypertrophic osteodystrophy, also called HOD. This is a severely painful bone disease that affects multiple limbs and causes lameness. Also craniomandibular osteopathy, a disease that affects the bones of the skull, including the lower jaw. A high mineral content diet has also been shown to cause conformation problems and abnormalities in both stature and weight gain. Puppies who get too big, too fast and go on to develop orthopedic issues are typically fed a very tasty, high energy, high mineral content diet. Many of these puppies are free-fed. Others are simply fed too much at each meal. The problematic high energy nutrient in all these diets tends to be too many carbohydrates. A healthy, large or giant breed puppy will thrive on a portion-controlled, balanced, species-appropriate diet. You can feed a spot-on balanced homemade diet or an excellent quality commercially available food. What about those large breed puppy foods? Traditional puppy foods often provide much higher calorie content than large breed puppies require, causing them to gain too much weight too quickly. This is why pet food manufacturers began producing formulas specifically for large breed puppies. These are typically diets lower in calorie density the number of calories per cup or gram of food than a regular puppy diet. These are two very important factors for reducing too-rapid growth in big puppies. Some adult foods may also be low calorically, but often they have high calcium content on an energy basis, which is not what you want for a growing large or giant breed pup. I do not recommend feeding a traditional high growth puppy food to large breed puppies. How Much to Feed Most vets and breeders agree puppies can be moved to adult foods between six and 10 months of age, depending on the breed, size, and current physical development. Several factors will play into the amount of food you feed your puppy. Puppies eat much more for their weight than adult dogs, and young puppies actually eat quite a bit more than older puppies. Very young puppies should be fed three to four times a day, in fact, whereas older puppies often do well with twice-daily feedings. Following feeding guidelines on the back of a dog food bag can give you some guidelines on portions to feed, but remember those are only general guidelines. Raw-fed puppies need a larger volume of food than kibble-fed puppies, because raw food contains less fat and calories per ounce. Another common feeding guideline is to allow your pup to eat at her own pace for about 10 minutes three times a day. Most importantly, I recommend you feed your puppy the amount of food required to keep him lean, which is about a 2 out of 5 or a 4 out of 9 body condition score.

Special Note: You can also check them out on Facebook and Instagram. Gridiron Bulldog — Colorado Gridiron Bulldog kennel owner Shawn Ashbaugh has been in love with English Bulldogs since the mids and has entered his fair share of dog shows throughout the years. Gridiron Bulldogs only breeds occasionally and it does so for preservation, so you can expect amazing pups that conform to the highest standards whether it comes to health or temperaments. However, if you want to verify their legitimacy, read our ultimate puppy buying guide for some proven tips on how to safely find a breeder online or how to find a puppy for sale while avoiding scams. In cases like that, interested adopters are often put on a long waiting list that could take months or even years. Infinity Pups — This is a family-owned business that does a bit of breeding of its own but spends most of its energy focusing on helping loving families connect with the right breeder and puppy for them. If the AKC recognizes them then you can trust them. PuppySpot — This website helps potential dog owners find the dog of their dreams by allowing them to search for their breed of choice, then doing all the breeder vetting, health checks, and travel coordination to make the whole process that much easier. Puppy Prices and Expenses The price of a happy and healthy English Bulldog varies significantly depending on the caliber of the breeder and the pedigree of its parents. Can you tell the difference between a reputable breeder and Brillianenglishbulldogs. Nowadays, most people start their search for a English Bulldog puppy on the internet. Current Screenshot of Brillianenglishbulldogs. In the report, PetScams. Using images stolen from genuine breeders websites, they advertise on classified websites as well as Google and Yahoo search. It is not as hard as it might seem. Before you become hoodwinked by the cuteness, check out a few of these ideas. The easiest way to determine if you are working with a legitimate breeder is to find a English Bulldog breeder near your own home. If you found the English Bulldog of your choice that is not close by, insist on speaking to the breeder over Skype, Facetime or any other video conferencing software. Excellent breeders will not sell their English Bulldog puppies for rock bottom prices. It is not cheap to raise a litter. Vet bills, health testing, food and supplements, time and effort go into a litter. So, if the price seems too good, it probably is not legit. If you have been checking the price of English Bulldog puppies that you are interested in buying and a puppy comes up that is way below the going price, there is a reason for it. Read on for more information about prices. Free or nearly free shipping: Many scammers will offer shipping at a ridiculously low price with their choice of Pet Delivery Agency. Scammers entice you to purchase knowing that shipping is not going to be an added expense however, if you fall for the scam, the cost of shipping continues to grow almost daily. Scammers will normally insist on shipping the puppy to you. They will make up excuses for why you cannot pick up the puppy in person. This is because they will charge you much more for the shipping that you have paid for the puppy. If you are adamant that you will pick up the puppy in person the scammer will eventually relent and arrange an appointment to meet. Scammers do this as there is a possibility that you will relent and pay for shipping. It does not cost them anything if you insist on driving cross country to an address that has no connection with the scam. There are several stories of home owners who were unaware that their address was being used as part of a English Bulldog puppy scam 3. Whare are , located? A genuine breeders website will have a location, phone number, email and probably social media links. This is because genuine breeders want to be contacted by what ever method is convenient to you. Scammers spend time creating multiple new websites. It would take them a lot longer if they needed a new email, phone and address for each one. The simplify it by having as few methods of contact as possible 4. They prefer not to speak to you as this may arouse your suspicions. Scammers are also happy to correspond by email. Read the email carefully. The wording in the email should be proper English. If you are in the US, scan the wording and determine if it is a native speaking US citizen. Puppy scams often originate abroad. Ask questions. If it is a scammer the first replies to your questions will be well written however this a script that they are coping and pasting. If you ask continue to ask questions about the puppy the scammers answers deteriorate and become much shorter. If the response you receive seems odd, or does not conform to the local vernacular or how you would expect a native to speak or respond to your questions, chances are you are not corresponding with a local person. While not a definite sign, that should at least send up a red flag. Odd use of grammar is a telltale sign that you are not dealing with a native speaker. No Visiting Permitted There are very valid reasons why a breeder might not want to allow you full access to their kennel, but if you get the feeling that the person refuses to allow visits, there is a problem. Some breeders will allow a visit to their home but not tours of their kennel facilities. Do not immediately rule these breeders that refuse admittance to their kennels, as they may have a good reason for not allowing access to their kennels. Infectious disease is one such reason. Some breeders have been hurt by people visiting their kennels and introducing parasites or viruses. For example, if you visit one site that may have a parvo outbreak and then travel to another breeder, you can unwittingly pass on the parvovirus to the dogs in the second kennel creating a biohazard to the breeder. One such instance is likely to prompt the breeder to close off the kennel to outside pathogens. There is no excuse for a English Bulldog breeder to not have a video call with you. If you are going to spend a lot of money on a puppy they should oblige you with a video call! Now, there is nothing wrong with a testimonial, but when you cannot confirm the legitimacy of the person providing the testimonial, you should question their authenticity. You can search part of the text to see if the testimonial has been used on other scam websites. There are normally beautiful photos of small puppies all appearing to be between 6 weeks and 12 weeks. Study the photographs well. If the photos look professional then they should all share the same background as they would have been taken at the same time. If they are not professionally taken then they should all be of the same quality and appear to be from the same location. The site normally will have little actual information about the puppy other than a fake birthdate and a price. If there is information about the breed you can use Copyscape to see if the content has been stolen. No Physical Address Do you have a real physical address of the person you are sending money to? Google it to see if it exists. Do not accept a PO box for an address. Many breeders have been hurt by people who send bad checks, but if the payment requirement seems odd, such as a Walmart money order, postal money order, Western Union, Zelle or other anonymous money transfer you may want to do a bit more research. You may find many legitimate sites that accept these types of payments, but contact them before you send any money. Photos Virtually Nonexistent but Surprisingly, a video exists. A site that can only provide pictures of an 8 or 9-week-old puppy may be a scam. If they have no pictures of the puppy prior to 8 weeks old, that should send up a red flag. Most good breeders will start photographing their puppies from birth onward. Can they keep you up to date with pictures of the puppy as they grow? Many scam sites will only have one or two pictures of a puppy that is 8 or 9 weeks old. Ask to see newborn pictures. Where did the video come from? It is relatively easy to steal a video or ask a legitimate breeder to send you photos and videos. Once the scammer has both in his possession, it is simple to add them online. Ask for a new video of the puppy you are buying. Tell them that you want your name and their website written on a piece of paper in the video. The Urgency to Ship Right Away The urgency to ship your puppy right away often within 24 hours is a big red flag. They want your money. Ask them if they can ship in two weeks and see what they say? Beyond that, there is no way that someone can secure a flight that quickly. If the puppy pictures were stolen from another website, this site would find the original source. Check out the Owner of the Website at Whois Whois is a database that will allow you to look at the person who owns the site. It should provide identifiable information about the website owner, their host server, where the host is located and the and IP Address. Look for the date the website was established. If it is recent, it could mean you are dealing with puppy scams. According to Whois, Brillianenglishbulldogs. It only has a 1 year registration. This unusually short for a genuine website but is common for a scam website. Scammers often use privacy protection to hide their details but also use false information. The information used to register Brillianenglishbulldogs. Are they on any social media sites? Scammers often display links to social media sites like Facebook, Instagram, Twitter or Pinterest order to look legitimate however the links do not lead to a brand page. Not all good breeders are on social media, but many are on at least one form of social media, often Facebook. Ask to chat with them on their Facebook page. Do they have Skype? Some breeders use this form of communication. It is worthwhile to see what their Skype number is and contact them there. The more places you report it, the better chance you have to shut Brillianenglishbulldogs. The address will have no connection to the actual scam as they will be an innocent third party Brillianenglishbulldogs. They use stolen credit cards and invent identities to defraud people shopping for a english bulldog puppy online. In the first email, the scammer will ask all the right questions, putting you through the motions to prove your suitability: how would we care for our puppy, how would we train him, how often would he be alone? Then the fraudsters emails will get shorter and normally keep to sms messages. This is because the first email is a template where as you are now dealing with the actual scammer. The main focus now is convincing you to pay as soon as possible. The puppy will be shipped to you by the scammers perferred delivery company. There is no other option. If you insist on picking up your new english bulldog they will eventually agree. It makes no difference to them if you travel for 4 hours because they are not at the address they claim to be. To see more scam websites involving english bulldog puppys have a look at English Bulldog Puppy Scams.

As with most purebreds, French Bulldogs have in-built health issues. This causes some major problems when it comes to giving birth, and special care is needed if you are to avoid the pitfalls and dangers ahead. The mother needs to be given medication to let her body know that her babies have been born, as the natural hormones would not have been released. She may not bite through the birth sacs or the umbilical cords, so you should be prepared to help out here. Special DAP Dog Appeasing Pheremone collars are often used to combat the problem of mother dogs not bonding with their puppies, usually starting several days before the C-section. However, the owner or breeder should be fully prepared to step in and take over the job of caring for these tiny bundles of joy. They will need all the help and love you can give them. Some breeders and owners prefer to allow a natural birth, despite the risks. Being Prepared Preparation is key to the safe and successful delivery of the puppies. It pays to have everything on standby in case the mother begins to whelp before the scheduled C-section appointment. Although the date can be predicted pretty accurately, the time can be out by about 24 hours. However gentle they usually are, they might snap at little hands that get too close. Plastic whelping boxes are lightweight and easier to keep clean than wooden ones, which can harbor parasites and germs. Make sure the box is large enough for the mother to stretch out but small enough to keep her precious puppies close, with easy access for her to get out without the puppies escaping. Any equipment you use should preferably be sterile. Placing a plastic sheet around the whelping area and under the box will help. What To Expect Photo from: ansem. As the hour approaches, she will pant a lot and become restless before lying down, upon which she will begin trembling. Soon after this, she will begin to push. The best sign of the start of labor is a sudden drop in body temperature, from around .Once she starts to push, the first puppy should appear within twenty minutes. If there is no sign of birth after this time, then call for assistance immediately as there is a good chance that puppy number one is stuck. Hopefully, all will be well, and the puppy is born safely. Help momma dog out if she needs it by cleaning and cutting cords. She should lick her babies clean as this will help her bond as the scent causes hormones to be released. The birth process is exhausting for the mother, so help her whenever you can. If at any time she becomes distressed, or things go wrong, call for help immediately, or both she and her Frenchie baby could be at serious risk of death. Clean up the area as much as you can without disturbing them, and leave them to it. But your work, in some senses, has only just begun! Caring For A Newborn French Bulldog Whether whelped at home or delivered by C-section, both mom and her new babies will need your help. One new puppy is a challenge. You might have two, three, or more, plus their tired mom to look after! However, in some cases, the mother may not naturally take to feeding. This can be a problem when the birth has not been natural. If you need to step in, ready-made puppy formula is available, or you may wish to make your own. Allow enough flow to let them feed easily without it overflowing around their mouth and nose. For the first week, they need to be fed every two hours. This can be extended to three or four hours in the second week, especially if they look healthy and are a good size. Potty Training Like any newborn baby, they will look to their mother for guidance, but you will most likely have to lend a hand. They will not poop or pee of their own accord, and mom has to stimulate this action by licking them. After this, you will obviously have to clean them up. Newborn French Bulldog puppies lack the ability to regulate their own body temperature in the first week of their lives. Overheating can be fatal. Check the areas for drafts and plug any gaps where cold air is flowing, but do make sure there is a slightly cooler area for mom and her babies to escape to if they want to. Frenchies, in general, due to their flat face, can be prone to overheating throughout their lives, so you should always keep this in mind. Keep Them Clean Any newspaper that becomes soiled should be replaced as soon as possible, and blankets or sheets should be washed regularly. These precious pups are vulnerable to staph infections and can get sick really quickly. Diarrhea or vomiting are serious problems, leading to dehydration, which can be a killer. If they are feeding naturally from mom, they will be getting the nutrition they need and protection in the form of antibodies to help fight infection. Development They will need to nurse or be fed formula for about three to four weeks before weaning. By this time, they will have changed significantly. When born, and for the first week, they are blind, deaf, and only able to move by wriggling. They will also react to sound even though their ears are just starting to open. By now, they are able to defecate and urinate by themselves, without help. This is a good time to begin things like toilet training. Place a shallow water bowl within reach, and be sure to remove any small objects from the area as they are likely to choke on them! They will be more independent and will play with their siblings, sometimes getting pretty rough. By the sixth week, they should be fully weaned and eating good-quality puppy food. As well as interacting with their siblings and mother, they should be showing interest in humans too. This is the time to book them in for vaccinations. Up to this point, the puppies have been courageously investigating their little world, their natural curiosity overcoming any fears. Now, however, they should start to display caution, especially with new objects or experiences. An eight-week-old French Bulldog puppy should now be fully formed, with deep brown eyes and weighing between 5 and 7 pounds. As loyal, fun, playful, and cute as they can be, this breed faces a host of health issues. They require special care and consideration, and you should only take them on if you are prepared to do what it takes to keep them healthy and give them the love they deserve. Pin64 71 Shares When we first brought Claude home, we had no idea on how much food we should be giving him. We spoke to our vet, and this is what he told us about how much you should feed a French bulldog puppy. A French bulldog puppy should be fed 3 times a day whilst there are still 2 to 6 months old. Once the French bulldog puppy reaches 6 months, you can reduce the feeding schedule down to 2 meals a day. But now having been a French bulldog owner for 3 years, I can now look back and give you some more detail on exactly what our French bulldog puppy feeding schedule was like and how it worked for us and him. French bulldog puppy feeding chart Below you can see a French bulldog puppy feeding guide I put together. It contains some rough guidance on how you should schedule and plan his feeds, and what other factors you might need to take into account. Please do print it out and put on your fridge. How many cups of food should I feed my French Bulldog? Before you look at the French Bulldog feeding chart below, you might want the quick answer to how many cups of food to feed your French Bulldog. As a general rule of thumb, you should feed a French Bulldog puppy aged 8 to 12 weeks around 1 and a half cups of food a day, in 3 separate meals. As your Frenchie gets older, the number of cups of food you should feed them will change. You can see the cup amounts and frequencies in the French Bulldog feeding chart graphic below. This French bulldog puppy feeding chart tells you how much you should feed them Source: Canin The French bulldog puppy feeding chart shown above is taken from the Royal Canin dog food range. This is exactly what we fed Claude as he was growing up. They range a specific French bulldog puppy food, and on the packaging you will see a version of the chart above, including how best to feed your own puppy. Handy Hint: To stop your Frenchie from bloating and possibly choking you should use a suitable feeding bowl. Here are the best French Bulldog food bowls that vets recommend. When you take your puppy to his new home, he should already be used to eating puppy food. As I mentioned earlier, you should be feeding your French bulldog puppy 3 times a day. They need that regularity as they are growing and burning a lot of calories. You know how energetic they are! How much you feed them at each mealtime will typically be half a cup of their dry puppy food. Across the day, that will equate 1. However, their weight and health will then determine how much you feed them as they get older. Calories matter, but are hard to count As French bulldogs get older, you should try to feed them according to their weight. For every pound, they should be fed between 25 and 30 calories. However, for the rest of this French bulldog puppy feeding guide, I am just going to talk in cups. Puppy weight How can weigh your puppy at the vets or, and this is can be a more interesting and fun way if your puppy already knows how to sit, have them sit on a scale at home. It will not be as accurate as a scale at the vet, but it could be a cheap and fun experience for you and your pet. Because of this, your puppy may be a little stubborn about eating dry and wet food if they were only just recently weaned. Here is where the math gets a little more detailed, but not too complicated. When they are between 8 to 12 weeks old, the puppy should be fed about 1. This food should be high in calories since they need extra nutrients that they are no longer getting from their mother. This kind of follows the main rule when it comes to spreading out the meals to 3 times a day. But for younger pups, many owners will split the 1. Because feeding them 0. Once they are between 6 and 9 months old, they should be used to their eating routine. That is when the main rule is applied because by then, the pup will be maturing into its adult size and should weigh between 20 and 25 pounds. What about older dogs? Also, if you are wondering how much they should be fed once they start hitting their senior years, they should be fed a little less as long only if they are not as active. Make sure you still stretch out the meals to 3 to 4 times like when they were puppies because it is not uncommon for their stomachs to weaken with old age. Overweight or underweight? French bulldog puppies usually weight between 8. Once they reach 6 to 9 months, they are just at or are closer to reaching their adult weight, .If the puppy is underweight, then add very small increments to each meal every day until they are no longer underweight. It is important to not add too much food because of the possibility of them getting a twisted stomach. If the puppy is overweight, you can either slightly reduce the size of their meal until they lose weight, or you can give them more exercise. Many people prefer the later since it helps the pup to get stronger and adds more bonding time. The same methods apply to grown French bulldogs as well. Handy Hint: Read this guide which explains how to check if you have a fat French Bulldog who needs to lose weight, with tips on how to get the pounds down. If the dog does not appear to be gaining weight when they are underweight or vice versa if they are overweight, you might want to take them to the vet since it could be a sign that something is affecting their health. Health conditions Since not every animal is the same, ask your vet the next time your pup has a check-up what a French bulldog of their size and age should weigh. Health factors like diabetes yes, dogs can have diabetes , can make your pup need a more strict diet or feeding routine. Here are some different diets and feeding routines. Raw food vs. Many dog lovers say that there are too many preservatives, fillers, wheat, corn, and protein in dry and wet food. While the raw food diet can be more natural, especially if it is organic, you also have to make sure your pup would be getting more foods with vitamins and minerals mixed in with the raw food that your pup would need. Raw food diets can be more expensive, require more storage room for the meats and veggies, and take longer to prepare. However, you would be personally ensuring that your little French bulldog pup is getting their full daily nutrition without harmful by-products and additives. Is there a good dry food diet? Possibly the biggest questions out of all of them: is there any good dry dog food out there and how do I find them? The answer is yes, there can be some healthy dry dog food products, but it takes some time to look for. The key is to look for dog food that does not contain any preservatives, fillers, wheat, corn, and too much protein. Fillers basically do not provide any nutritional value and can even harm your dog since most of the ingredients they use as fillers are common allergies for dogs that can cause skin conditions, bowel issues, and more. Wheat and corn are included since they are also a popular allergen for dogs. Too much protein is even more dangerous for them since it can put more pressure on the organs, throw off nutritional balance, increase the likelihood of diabetes, and can harm dogs that already have diabetes. To see the safe and dangerous fruits list, click here. Another two meat choices would be duck and turkey, but these are a little less common to find, especially if you are looking for a French bulldog specific dog food. Your dog eats his food too quickly Another common problem is how do you control how fast your French bulldog puppy eats. French bulldogs love to eat their food and eat it fast, which is one of the primary causes of GDV. Frenchies will stop eating for a number of reasons, some more serious that others. Conclusion So there you have it, your guide to how much you should feed your French bulldog puppy. Everything in this feeding schedule and the French bulldog feeding chart you see is based on personal experience. Once in the morning, and once in the early evening. Keep a regular feeding routine, and your Frenchies will stay as healthy as ours has! Pin1 1 Shares Frenchie puppies are adorable and it would be very tempting to take one home as soon as you can. However, you need to be aware that there are certain ages at which they cannot leave their mother for both health and legal reasons. If you want to know what the best age to get a Frenchie puppy is, read below for a quick primer on the important factors regarding age. What is the best age to get a French Bulldog puppy? The best age you can get a French Bulldog puppy from is once they have reached 8 weeks of age. Any time past this is the best age to take them away from their mothers as they will no longer be in the weaning stage. We got Claude after he had turned 8 weeks old or two months. I think any time past this date is the best age, and I am going to explain why and what you need to know if considering getting a French Bulldog yourselves. The bottom line is this; do not buy a French Bulldog before the age of 8 weeks old. Frenchies are a massive bundle of fun at any age, the 2 month or 8-week mark is the perfect age range to bring a Frenchie puppy home. Aside from the weaning issue, there are lots of reasons why too, some of which I will go into below. Why 8 weeks is the best age to get a French Bulldog puppy 1. This crucial moment of their life will determine almost everything about their future. During this period, French Bulldog puppies are raised by their mother and learn the core basics about being a dog. This is what Claude looked like when we first got him. He was just over 8 weeks old and was ready to leave his mother. French Bulldog puppies are properly nursed and naturally weaned up until 8 weeks of age. They are fed with the right kind of milk for puppies of their age and they receive the proper parental care and attention. Frenchies are renowned for having a whole range of health problems see the list of issues here and many of these can be picked up in the 2 month period after they have been born. French Bulldog puppies that live with an expert breeder up until 8 weeks should get the proper medical attention and a health maternal environment that is favourable to their development. By taking home a younger pup at 8 weeks and over, you are almost starting with a blank slate and in theory should be able to train them easier. They are a stubborn breed, but getting the training initiated from the age of 8 weeks will mean you should get far better results. Younger dogs will adapt better as will other pets When we brought Claude home for the first time, we were very nervous about how he was going to adapt to being away from his mother. We were also worried about how our cat would react to having a strange dog in the house. However, because Claude was 8 weeks old, he was still smaller than our cat. I think this made the introduction and adapting so much easier. I think if we have brought a 6-month-old puppy home, it would have scared our cat and made things a lot harder for us. Our cat thought she was in charge, and in fact, she still does to this day and they get along just fine. I have put together some tips on how to introduce Frenchies to cats which you might find useful. You can see a video below from when my young son met Claude on his first day coming home to our house. Claude was 8 or 9 weeks old at this point. The fun is just endless. As I mentioned earlier, it is hard work as the puppy will poop and pee on the floor, so you have a lot of hard work ahead of you. However, at this age they are full of excitement, are inquisitive, adventurous, and want to play constantly. You will never get that time back again unless of course you get another puppy and we are so happy that we were able to share these formative weeks and months with Claude. You can start socialising your Frenchie early Puppies who have not been socialised properly with other dog and people can be a handful. The sooner you can start the socialisation process the better it will be easier if you have two French Bulldogs instead of one. We took Claude to puppy socialisation classes at our local vets. The idea here is to get lots of young puppies in a room with some older dogs so they can get used to each other. Here you can see a Frenchie puppy at 20 weeks old. It also helps that we our son was around 4 years old at the time, so Claude was also able to get used to the way young children can approach dogs. Why you should not get a Frenchie before 8 weeks of age Only ignorant people and breeders would let a French Bulldog puppy leave their mother before 8 weeks of age. They are very difficult and expensive to breed Breeding your own Frenchies is a difficult and expensive process. If you are not an experienced or professional breeder, the chances of you doing it right are very low. It will be a lot easier than trying to breed them yourselves. You will have a lot of sleepless nights If you bring a French Bulldog puppy home before they have been weaned from the mother, you are in for a full-time job. You will need to nurse the dog, keep them warm, steadily rub them to stimulate bowel movements, bottle feed them with special puppy milk supplement for up to eight times a day or more — and a whole lot of other necessary and demanding breeding measures. Looking after a Frenchie puppy younger than 8 weeks of age will be so exhausting and could lead to them having health problems. You will visit the vet more often Sickness is a huge risk when you take home a Frenchie before the time is right. What to look for when buying a Frenchie puppy No matter what the age you buy, there are some key things to look out for. The main things are to make sure you see the dog with the mother, to check the background of the breeder, and to check overall health and signs for infections such as flaking skin, bare spots, bruises, lesions, scabs and cuts that are caused by bacteria. Here are some more… Know the age of the puppy before buying. Never buy a puppy without seeing the parents the mother at least. This will help you know that the puppy comes from a healthy background and you can find out more about the circumstances surrounding the dog. Find out if the parents of the puppy have been health tested. Make sure that the puppy has had the first vaccinations as these should be done by a vet before they leave the mother. Only buy puppies from reputable breeders. Ask about any potential genetic health and behavioural problems of the parents before buying. For more details on what to look out for and the warning signs to be aware of, read this guide on what you need to know before you buy. Clean their ears regularly with a damp, warm cloth. Maintain and trim their nails regularly. Prevent infections by always cleaning and drying the wrinkles between their skin folds. Brush their coat once or twice every week to help keep the coat healthy and clean. Feeding advice The most important aspect is how to feed the puppy. Related questions on age And finally, here are some answers to some common questions people also ask when researching what the best age to get a French Bulldog puppy is. What is the best age to neuter a French Bulldog? Recommendations on this will vary, but your vet will typically say that a Frenchie can be neutered between the ages of 4 and 9 months. We waited until Claude was 6 months for this short and simple procedure. He had no recovery time, just a few stitches, and was his normal self within a few hours. There is some opinion that this can lead to longer-term health benefits and can even stop negative behavioural problems including aggression. I can only speak from experience when I say that we noticed no differences with our own French Bulldog. He was just as mad and fun after he was neutered. What age do French Bulldogs come into season? The age French Bulldogs are said to come into season will vary from 6 to 8 months old. Once they have come into season, they will typically come into heat a couple of times a year. What age to French Bulldogs stop teething? Just like humans, dogs will also teeth and start to lose their milk teeth as they grow older. French Bulldogs tend to stop teething once they read 7 to 8 months of age. Teething can start at around 4 months old. You can read all you need to know about the teething stages and what to expect in this teething timeline. I remember us finding small teeth on the carpet in our lounge when Claude starting teething. I wish I had kept them now! Conclusion To conclude, the best age to get a French Bulldog puppy is once they reach the age of 8 weeks of age. In the first week we had Claude, he would cry and whine at night which I can only put down to being scared and wondering where his mum and siblings were. The bottom line is this; having an adorably cute Frenchie puppy as a new family member is really exciting… but very manic at the same time. In fact, I would almost compare it to having a baby. You need to keep a constant eye on them, they mess everywhere, and need constant attention. You might also like… This month I published a new blog post which talks about the pros and cons to male versus female French Bulldogs. You might want to read that before deciding what gender puppy you will be getting. The early care and environment of the French Bulldog newborn puppy are very important. Reasons a French Bulldog puppy might die early on are usually due to difficult whelping, congenital or genetic defects, environmental factors i. However, the following formula is cheaper and provides all the nutrition. Many use it instead of evaporated milk — both can be found in the bakery section of your grocery store. If this seems to be, change to bottled water to make the formula. Keeping the litter box tempature between degrees with no drafts for the first few days is usually adequate. Other sources of warmth can be heating pads or heat lamps. If using a heating pad, monitor the intensity of heat, as pups have been known to cook on pads set on high settings! There are many excellent heat lamps on the market, but remember that caution is needed. Heat lamps have been known to start fires! The temperature on the French Bulldog puppies 1 inch above the bottom of the box should be about degrees with a corner that is slightly cooler and allow them to scoot to wherever they like best. There should also be plenty of clean blankets, as this will allow for regulation of temperature. Hydration is one of the most important things to monitor in new Frenchie pups, as it can be one of the first signs of problems. Check hydration by by pinching the skin on the back of the neck or on the top of the back. If the pinched skin stays creased, the French Bulldog puppy is dehydrated and needs fluid replacement. Dehydration can either be a result of inadequate nourishment, too much heat, or sickness. It is strongly suggested that you use regular newborn or infant bottles and nipples. The ones available for purchase for cats, dogs, ferrets, etc. Bottle feeding is far more preferable. The sucking on a nipple, the handling and holding of the French Bulldog puppy is so very important to their overall development. The French Bulldog puppy should be held with his head upwards and his body and tail down in a 45 to 90 degreee angle when bottle feeding. If French Bulldog puppies and their blankets are not kept clean, it is very easy to come down with a staph infection and diarrhea — which is serious, as Frenchie puppies can go downhill quickly. As mentioned before, it is equally serious if the French Bulldog puppies get chilled so avoid drafts. Even if you have them in a basket with a heating pad, you need to cover the basket with a towel to keep out drafts. A chilled French Bulldog puppy must be warmed up. There are lots of little ways to accomplish it. Priority should be to get the Frenchie puppy warmed up slowly. Newborn French Bulldog puppies cannot regulate their body temperature or body functions like urinating and stools. It is important that they are pottied at each feeding. They might not have a stool each time, but they will urinate. This is what the mother does when she licks them. After that, she will become a good mommy. Some might start off being good, then after a few days, or even a couple of weeks, not want to be bothered and might even be nasty to the puppies such as snapping and biting them. Always be careful and watch. If the mother will not clean the babies, you must be sure to do it. Using a kleenex, gently rub the area to stimulate their potty. Then be sure to clean them well. Make sure to check them even if the mother cleans them. Often the stool will get stuck to the tail and be dry. If that happens, or if the French Bulldog puppy seems to be straining and constipated, try the following: Run warm water in the sink slowly. Put a drop of soap on their behinds, and wash and massage their behinds; it will get the tail and poop unstuck, clean them up, and cause them to potty very well. If the little bottoms are red and sore, use some Desitin ointment. You may see green puppy stools and stools that have an appearance of bunches of tiny seeds. If all else seems normal, this seems to be harmless and short-lived. However, watery diarrhea can be very serious if left unchecked. Diarrhea together with vomiting usually means infection. It should be broken into feedings every 2 hours 5cc per feeding. If it is a good sized Frenchie puppy 1 lb. Towards the end of a week, you should increase the food needed to about cc or more. For the first week they should eat every two hours. If they are good size Frenchie babies, you can sometimes go longer. An average weight for newborn French Bulldog puppies is around ounces. Good size puppies are oz. New born puppies are very helpless. They are born blind and deaf and unable to regulate their body temperatures, so we have to use an external heat source when the puppies are not in direct contact with mom. During this time period, their mothers have to stimulate them in order for them to urinate and have bowel movements. This is a very busy time for us and we are usually very sleep deprived because we assist the mothers every 3 hours around the clock to make sure that all puppies are latching on well, growing, and being stimulated to urinate and defecate. It is a critical time in which the puppies are so small that an unaware Frenchie mother could accidentally smother one or more of her pups, so we monitor them very closely. Lacey takes a video of each litter at 3 weeks of age and posts them on our website under New Puppies so that our clients near the top of the list, as well as other clients and prospective clients, can get a early look at them. They continue to gain weight rapidly over the next several months of their lives. At two weeks age their ears open and they are able to hear, and another big part of their new world opens up. Prior to this event, about all they do is grunt or mew, but afterward their vocabulary includes yelps, whines, and even little barks. At three weeks of age the more advanced puppies start taking their first shaky steps; prior to this their basic mode of transportation is basic army crawling. They are now able to urinate and defecate on their own and will move away from their sleeping area to do so. Up to this point it is strictly the mothers and us Donna, Lacey, and Bick who have handled the pups with lots of hand sanitizing before and after and they have been kept in their kennel. Even though it is hard on the kids, we do not let them or their friends handle them until 4 weeks of age. At four weeks we start introducing them to solid food initially crushed and moistened. By the end of the 4th week they are eating their crushed puppy food, with no water added, three times a day. Because they are not nursing as long or as often, we provide fresh water for them at all times. The kids are allowed to hold them now closely monitored and with clean hands and we allow the puppies to run around and explore our large main room in the house. At 5 weeks of age they are starting to run around all over the place when they are let out to play, and, when they are in their kennels, they play sometimes rather roughly with litter mates. It is during this time when some of their adult personalities will start coming out. By the end of this week their puppy teeth are all in, and they love to chew on things, including fingers if you let them. However, even at this age, they will spend most of their time sleeping, probably close to 20 hours per day, with only short times between naps when they are alert and active. By the end of the 6th week they are completely weaned from their moms and eating solid food well. We frequently take them out of their kennels to scamper around. They are full of energy and love to play with their litter-mates and the kids. This is the time that we really focus on socializing them and we even start their paper training. By 7 weeks they have already passed through most of their puppy milestones and are continuing to grow rapidly; they are generally in the 4 to 6 pound range. This is when their personalities really start coming out! It is so fun to watch them play with the kids and their litter-mates and observe their new fascination with toys. They have become somewhat accustomed to going potty on pee pads so that when they are out running around the room they often recognize them on the floor and will go potty on them. Though they are fast, active, playful little puppies at this point in their lives, they still are like babies and require lots of sleep probably over 18 hours per day and are still quite fragile. This video will show the color and conformation of each puppy, in addition to its personality. Their their third DAPP and 2nd Bordetella vaccinations are given at 12 weeks and then a yearly booster thereafter. The rabies shot can also be given at 12 weeks no later than 16 weeks. They are also regularly de-wormed and given a medication for the prevention of coccidia and giardia. Occasionally we hold onto puppies a little longer if we do not feel they are quite ready to go to their new homes. Our clients are encouraged to come to our home to meet their fur babies if this is feasible. When this is not possible, we arrange for one of our responsible puppy chaperones to hand deliver our puppies to meet their new owners at their nearest major airport. In fact, even as adults they will sleep at least half of the day in a series of long naps, and probably closer to 14 hours per day. Have More Questions? The bat ears, large bright eyes, stubby tail, compact and muscular body, playful nature and remarkably docile demeanour; some of the innumerable qualities that make the French bulldogs an excellent companion animal. Due to their smaller body size, these dogs make good travel companions as well. Additionally, their intelligence and quick adaptability ensure that they are safe to be let about around infants and old members of the family as well. To these statements, I can attest myself for I have a 4 years old female French bulldog — one of the most brilliant dogs that my family has ever had the privilege to own. However, during these past four years, one major concern surfaced itself time and again to my veterinarian parents: Pyometra. Pyometra is defined as an intrauterine accumulation of pus accompanied by a persistent corpus luteum and failure of oestrus. Apparent failure of the endometrial luteolytic factor or endogenous prostaglandin to cause luteolysis makes bitches appear and behave as though they were gestating. Risk factors for pyometra include increasing age, nulliparity, breed, and exogenous oestrogen or progesterone administration. Spaying Ovariohysterectomy completely and promptly removes the infection, prevents uterine rupture and peritonitis, and prevents recurrence, in most cases. Spayed animals do very rarely develop pyometra in the uterine stump. Even so, ovariohysterectomy is currently considered the most effective and safest treatment. It is thus, a very important disease to be aware of for any dog or cat owner because of the sudden nature of the disease and the deadly consequences if left untreated. While it is observed that this condition may occur in any dog regardless of age and mating history, it is more common in bitches that have not whelped even once throughout their life nulliparous. Therefore, after a proper discussion and consultation with scientific literature, we decided to allow our French bulldog to mate with a healthy adult male of the same breed. Little did we know what was in store for us in the next few months to come. Our dog conceived successfully and started showing some symptoms of gestation such as gradual enlargement of abdomen, quick exhaustion, reluctance to run or play, enlargement of mammary glands, etc. However, she lost her appetite abruptly and refused to eat her meals about two weeks into her pregnancy. As her abdomen rapidly grew in size, her appetite reduced alarmingly. To manage the issue, she was given appetite inducers, liver supplements and shifting of meal ingredients from fish, to egg, to chicken, to pork alternatively, in an attempt to spark her interest. She ate almost nothing. There was gradual loss of condition as her abdomen distended significantly. At merely 30 days of gestation, her general appearance was of a bitch at full term. A general abdominal ultrasound was conducted on the 40th day of gestation and roughly 7 puppies were observed even though the number could be greater since unlike X-ray, the number of foetuses cannot accurately be determined using ultrasonography and we were unwilling to conduct radiography due to radiation hazard. She instead preferred to sit close to walls and furniture and lean for support, thus keeping her thorax elevated than her abdomen to reduce pressure on her diaphragm while breathing. There were a couple of concerns we were ailed with. Since French bulldogs are known to have a narrow pelvic girdle and foetal head size is typically large, normal parturition could lead to lodgement of the head of the foetus in her birth canal leading to dystocia. This is why being a veterinary surgeon; I had made all preparations for a caesarean section. Additionally, on an average, French bulldogs have no more than 5 puppies per litter but in the case of my dog Paris, her litter size appeared considerably larger upon ultrasonography, which could be correlated with her abnormally distended abdomen. On the 58th day of gestation, she displayed vivid signs of labour such as nesting, restlessness, panting and straining. We were alarmed due to her pre-term parturition since there were still days of pregnancy remaining. At pm in the winter evening she delivered her first puppy via normal parturition without incident and continued to deliver 8 more over the next 7 hours and delivered a total of 9 puppies of which one was still-born. It was severely cold and raining outside. She displayed admirable maternal instinct and licked away the foetal membranes from all the puppies enabling them to breathe and stimulated them by licking their faces and bodies until the pups let out their first cries. The puppies were cleaned and stimulated further by rubbing gently with sterile absorbant cotton. Unlike most other breeds of dogs, Paris readily allowed us to handle and care for her pups, trusting us completely to keep them safe. On the first two nights, the puppies were allowed to remain with the mother however; we lost another pup as a result of crushing injury inflicted due to her lack of experience. It was then decided to undertake human intervention so as to ensure the safety of the remaining 7 puppies and avoid such accidents in the future. On the 4th night however, the mother managed to get into the basket housing her puppies, reached in with her mouth and carried out one puppy then took her to her bed. The puppy was licked thoroughly by the mother and was only discovered approximately 4 hours after the incident. By then the puppy was hypothermic and dehydrated. Due to severe dehydration and subsequent hypoglycaemia, she was very weak, unable to suckle milk and twitched in frequent intervals. Intensive care was initiated immediately and the puppy was separated from the rest, kept constantly warm at 39 degrees Celsius, fed artificial milk in intervals of 1 hour. However, not much improvement could be observed. After repeating the procedure thrice, she visibly regained strength and began suckling on the finger showing intent. I continued to feed her the milk replacer at 1 hour intervals and 0. This is an essential step since most puppies at neonatal stage are unable to void faeces and urine independently and require stimulation from the mother by licking or artificially using soaked cotton balls. In the case of Paris, she would tend to lick using excessive pressure perhaps due to her overwhelming maternal instinct, which is why we had to deter her from doing so and took charge of the issue ourselves. From the 4th week, feeding was repeated at 4 hour intervals and subsequently increased to 6 hours at the age of 6 weeks. They are currently 12 weeks old and in the past couple of months, I have put my theoretical knowledge on neonatal care of puppies into practical application. General status of health could be assessed by observing faecal consistency and frequency. Neonates void yellow or brown semi-solid faeces with a seedy appearance at intervals of 2 to 3 hours. Faeces solidify gradually and take the form of small boli in healthy puppies without gastrointestinal ailments and having sufficient hydration. Anaemia was assessed by colour and dryness of the oral mucous membranes, dehydration could be assessed by pulling the skin on the back using thumb and index finger as well as the colour of urine. Healthy puppies void clear, colourless to slightly yellow urine, and dehydrated puppies have dark yellow urine voided in scanty quantities. The first two weeks are very crucial since the puppies were prone to hypothermia and hypoglycaemia if optimal room temperature and feeding schedule is not carefully maintained. Methylcellulose eye drops were instilled at 6 hour intervals for one week to prevent corneal desiccation. The mother resumed feed consumption the morning after her delivery. Her diet was supplemented with multi-mineral and multivitamin syrup Multistar Pet and calcium chew tablets Drools to help her regain optimal health as well as to sustain the high nutritional requirements during lactation. All puppies were vaccinated with Puppy-DP Distemper and Parvovirus at 30 days age considering the facts that Paris missed her vaccination during her pregnancy and a Parvoviral infection was on-going as an epidemic in the city. Additionally, the puppies were kept under complete isolation and I had to place myself under home-isolation since I would encounter multiple Parvo and Distemper cases at my workplace. It is with great pride that I can say that all seven puppies have shown remarkable growth and development, are healthy, happy and playful. A healthy female French Bulldog Paris , 4 Year age. A photograph of Paris at 30 days of gestation, with distended abdomen and mildly enlarged mammary glands. A photograph of Paris resting with her fully fed puppies after nursing. Six French bulldog puppies of 60 days age, sitting attentively for a photograph.

GHGRC supports the dedicated volunteers who work hard to help Goldens in need and find them new homes. We thank all those who adopt dogs from rescue, bringing them into their homes and hearts. GHGRC does not endorse or recommend any particular rescue organization. Please take your time to evaluate the practices of any organization before adopting from them. Please take your time to carefully consider any specific dog before adopting. The Golden Retriever Club of America National Rescue Committee provides additional information on adopting from rescue, and nation-wide listings of Golden Retriever rescue groups. When adopting from a rescue, you should expect to be required to complete and submit a detailed adoption application. Some organizations may require a home visit before approval to adopt. Organizations vary in their policies regarding adoption to families with young children; some may make exceptions, others will not. Rescue organizations make every effort to carefully match potential adopters with dogs needing homes. Dogs are often promoted on a group's web site. While you may find a particular dog appealing, please respect the experience and knowledge of the rescue if they determine that dog is not well suited for your situation or visa versa. Dogs in breed-specific rescue programs are generally fostered in volunteer's homes. Once a rescue organization determines you may be a potential match, you can expect to visit with the dog and its foster "parent. While dogs land in rescue through human error and no fault of the dog, many are young adults that had not previously been given sufficient time, socialization or training. They may need time and attention and basic obedience training. Some rescues focus on pure-bred Golden Retrievers. Others with have both pure-bred and Golden mixes. You should NOT expect to adopt a puppy purebred Golden puppies are very rare in rescue and generally spoken for quickly. You should not expect to adopt a young adult with perfect training and perfect housemanners.Please consider adopting a senior 8 yrs or older or special needs dog. Their time with you may not be long, but it can be rich in love and very rewarding. We are an all-volunteer group dedicated to the rescue and placement of Golden Retrievers in the greater Houston, Texas area. The organization was established out of our deep love for Golden Retrievers and the desire to help the many homeless Goldens find homes where they will be well cared for and loved as part of the family. We work to rehabilitate Goldens with physical or behavioral needs prior to placement. Our ultimate goal is to ensure that the dog is placed in the best home possible for both the dog and adopter. For example, fostering is a tremendously rewarding way to help the wonderful Goldens that need a safe haven in which to stay until they find their forever homes! We cannot do this alone. You are the ones who truly make the difference! Thank you for taking your time to learn more about GRRH. We hope to have the opportunity to meet many of you in the days ahead as we strive to find forever homes for the beautiful and loving Goldens that we cherish so much. Mission Statement Golden Retriever Rescue of Houston is a non-profit organization dedicated to the rescue, foster care, welfare and placement of Golden Retrievers in the Houston, Texas area. GRRH is an all-volunteer group that provides temporary shelter, quality medical care and permanent homes for unwanted, abused or abandoned Golden Retrievers. We seek to: Reduce the number of unwanted Golden Retrievers in the community by ensuring that each Golden Retriever will be spayed or neutered prior to adoption Give preference in our program to Goldens facing certain death in institutions e.

The bad news? Housebreaking is hard. Getting started early on their training will pay off in the long run, saving you lots of unwanted accidents and surprises throughout the house. If your pug starts to actively sniff, circle the room, or run around excitedly out of the blue, they may need a bathroom break. Whining, sitting near the door, or giving you anxious, nervous stares are other common signs of a full bladder. To do this, hang a bell by the door at pug level, of course and use treats to get them comfortable with it. Establish a routine Pugs are little dogs, and that means they have little bladders, too. Get in the habit of taking them out as soon as you wake up, shortly after they eat a meal, after playtime, before you go to bed, and every hour or so in between. Each time you take your pug outside, return to the same spot. No luck? Bring them back inside and try again in 20 minutes. Your pug wants to please you, so seeing how proud you are when they do their business outside will encourage them to keep up that behavior. The shame may actually encourage them to find hidden spots around the house to pee and poop. Instead, clean up the accident with a pet cleaner so that there are no lingering smells in the house that would encourage them to keep going to the bathroom inside, and focus on taking them outside regularly to prevent repeat accidents. If you do catch your pup starting to pee or poop indoors, firmly say no firm, but not yelling! Reward them if they finish their business outside so that they know that they ultimately did the right thing! Consistency is key in many things, and housebreaking your pup is no different. Related Blog Posts. They will want to be with you. Have a crate or bed next to your bed for at least the first few weeks while you get them into a Puppy night-time routine. Here is how to get a puppy to sleep through the night. Alone Training Teaching your Pug puppy that they can be totally fine being left alone can be done with stuffed chew toys, time and patience. Remember to do it slowly to avoid any stress! Toilet Training Training Practically every website you read may tell you that Toilet training your Pug puppy can be a challenge. As with alone training, start sooner rather than later. Of course, if they run into any birds, butterflies and hear planes flying over, it will be great for them to get acquainted already. Have fun gathering surfaces with different textures for them to explore, like synthetic grass, tiles, and soil. Use treats! Remember to use lots of treats and praise when training. They love making your tail wag! Repeat their name to them a lot in the first week, so it really starts to click. Recall — How to teach your Pug puppy to come back when called — This is important for safety. Pugs generally stay close, but they can be very friendly and want to run up to people and other dogs for a bit of a cuddle, so a good recall will always help. But they can enjoy fetch games on a smaller scale, get on the floor and interact and play with your Pug puppy to learn what they enjoy. This will help to avoid resource guarding. Husbandry Tasks Pugs love affection but should be handled with care. Be mindful to not treat them like toys. Not going to blame children to think they are toys though — the resemblance is uncanny. To do this we want to teach them that hands will do nice things to them so use plenty of treats when handling your puppy. Week 2 — Training your Pug puppy Week 2 already! House Training a Pug Overview One of the most important things that you will ever teach your Pug is house training. And, while it can be a bit challenging and you'll have to devote quite some time to this, if you follow these guidelines you are sure to find success. These tips will be applicable for both young puppies and adults of any age that need to re-learn the rules. The main goal will be to train your Pug that one certain area outside is the bathroom area. And, that when you are not home to take your Pug there, pee pads are used for bathroom needs. While the exact time needed for potty training varies depending on how often you are there to actually teach the lessons, expect for this to take about 3 months for your Pug to be fully trained. Also, plan for there to be little setbacks here and there as your Pug learns these important lessons. Above all else, do not give up. The Pug is a breed that aims to please. With proper prepping and patient guidance, your Pug can be a very well-trained dog. Step 1: Prepping No doubt, you want to get right into housebreaking your Pug; however, prepping is a vitally important step and is needed to ensure your Pug is set up for success. Certainly, while you are setting things up, bring your Pug outside as needed details ahead. And, once you have everything in place, you'll find that house training is easy and accidents are few and far in between. Those that do happen will be nicely contained. Choose a designated bathroom area. Your Pug should not just go to the bathroom somewhere outside. Pick on certain area that will be used. This should be away from family foot traffic like outdoor barbecue areas and easy to reach no matter what the weather. Choose a containment method. If your Pug is allowed to roam the house or even just an entire room like the living room or family room this will inevitably lead to puddles of pee and piles of poo all over the place. So, the goal is to keep your Pug in one spot any time that you cannot closely supervise. This means when you are busy cooking dinner, taking a nap, etc. The goal should also be that the area is very comfortable, with everything a Pug needs to be content: Quality bed, lots of fun toys, and food and water bowls. One of the best methods to create this sort of contained area is via an indoor canine playpen. These are square or circular heavy-duty plastic open-topped pens. Some have doors and these are recommended. This is 24 inches 61 cm high and offers 8 square feet of space perfect for a Pug puppy. It has a nice little door to easily get your Pug in and out, and the door can be left open when you're home and watching your pup and closed when you're away. What's nice about this is that as your Pug grows, you can add on panels to increase its size. And, it comes in 7 different colors, to blend in nicely with your home decor. This is a bit taller at 34 inches 86 cm and it's circular in shape, offering 21 square feet. Though it's roomier, it will still keep housebreaking accidents contained and serve the purpose of keeping your Pug in a comfortable spot while you work on training. No matter which option you choose to create this sort of defined area, it should be lined with pee pads. While a puppy will not automatically know that the pads should be used, they will be used by default. If you find that that your Pug doesn't use the pee pads , urine and feces end up near them instead of on them, or they are moved or chewed on, this can be addressed by using larger ones, using a method to keep them in place, or using alternatives like reusable pads or even real grass patches. Have a supervision method. Since your Pug will be in a contained area see previous point 2 any time that you cannot closely oversee your pup, it's now time to choose a method of effective supervision when you are there to do so. The goal will be to have your Pug close enough that you'll be able to interrupt any attempts to pee or poo in the house. It's important that you don't just assume you'll somehow do this. Puppies dart around quickly and Pugs of any age can move around a corner and leave you a nice little present in the blink of an eye. You'll want to avoid accidents like this since each one is a step in the wrong direction and a missed opportunity to instill house training lessons. One of the best ways to keep your Pug right near your side is the tethering method. Your Pug will be on leash and harness and you will have the other end connected to you. Please note that a harness must be used, not a collar. Brachycephalic breeds like the Pug should never be on leash and collar no matter what; it can constrict the trachea and cause breathing problems. Next, under point 4, you'll see details of what you'll need to tether your Pug while house training. Have two leashes and at least one harness. As mentioned above, you'll want a leash and harness combo for when you are supervising your Pug. You will also need these items for when you take your Pug outside for bathroom needs. There are several types of accessories that will be used for these purposes: 1. A comfortable, properly fitting harness. This is for any time your Pug is on leash indoor tethering to you or being taken outside. Unlike collars that put strain on the neck and trachea and is a big no-no for brachycephalic breeds, a harness distributes pressure over the much stronger back, shoulders, and chest. This is super easy to place on you just slip your Pug's front paws through the leg holes and then there is an adjustable buckle and Velcro on the back to secure it. There is an o-ring right between the shoulder blades to connect the leash. This is padded for comfort and the material is a breathable air-mesh. It also comes in 13 different colors, so your Pug always looks stylish. A short soft-handled leash. This is the type of leash you'll want to use when you are with your Pug indoors and supervising him during house training. You'll want the leash to be short about 6 feet to keep your Pug close. And, the soft handle will allow you to either slip it over your wrist or secure it through a belt loop, which allows both of your hands to be free. A retractable leash. For when you take your Pug out to the designated bathroom area, it can be useful to have a retractable leash. And, these are great for taking walks as well. Being able to adjust the length at any time is a huge plus and helps you stay in control of your Pug. It can extend out to 16 feet and even comes with a lifetime guarantee. Have effective training treats. A big part of housebreaking is being able to let a puppy or dog know that they did something right by going to the bathroom in the designated area. This teaches them what is expected and offers motivation for doing that action again. Praise works to some degree; however, the fastest method is to combine praise with reward in the form of a training treat. There are a few elements to keep in mind: The treat should be something reserved for reward not given as a snack at any rate , small so it doesn't interfere with appetite , moist which is often more appreciated over dry , and packed with flavor. You'll also want it to be up to the standards of any food that your give your Pug, meaning made in the USA, no chemical preservatives, no artificial additives, and no fillers like corn or soy. Choose the cue words. Dogs always learn best when they can connect a word or phrase to an action. So, when you are potty training your Pug puppy, you will want to use one certain phrase each time you head outside for bathroom needs. You'll also use this phrase again to mark the moment that the deed was done and when you give reward details ahead. Common choices are 'do the deed', 'pitty-potty', 'bathroom', 'potty time', and 'get busy'. Choose whichever phase you like, but make sure that it's one you don't mind saying out loud in front of other people. Arm yourself with an enzyme cleanser. It's important to clean any accidents the right way. Urine and stools contain certain enzymes that soap and water do not remove. If these enzymes remain, they will produce a lingering odor. You may not smell anything, but your Pug with exceptional canine senses will indeed pick up the scent. It is a strong motivator to go to the bathroom in that area again. To prevent this from happening, clean any accidents with soap and warm water, blot it dry, and then spray the area with a cleanser like Simple Solution Enzyme Formula , allow it to stay there for 5 minutes, and then blot the area dry one last time. To summarize your housebreaking prep: You have a method of keeping your Pug in one area like a playpen that is lined with pee pads for any time that you are not closely monitoring things, you have a supervision method for when you are watching your pup, a designated bathroom area has been chosen, you have training treats to hand out for reward, you have a leash and harness for your Pug, you've chosen cue words, and you have an enzyme cleanser to deal with any accidents in the house. You're now ready to fully house train your Pug. Step 2: Taking Your Pug Out for Bathroom Needs You will want to take your Pug to the designated area: Right after your puppy or dog wakes up About 20 minutes after a meal Every so-many hours, depending on age. This is typically every 2 hours for a 2-month old, every 3 hours for a 3-month old, etc. Before each walk allowing a dog to pee and poo along the walking route is a missed opportunity to teach house training rules Before bed Any time that you are supervising your Pug and there is a motion to pee or poo Right when you get home if you've been away As you can imagine, you'll be quite busy bringing your puppy outside many times each day. Fortunately, as a puppy matures, the bladder and bowel muscles become stronger and there is a gradual ability to hold bathroom needs for a longer duration. Still, an adult Pug will need to be brought out 4 to 6 times per day. The exact steps are as follows: 1. Quickly bring your Pug to the exit door. If you must, carry him or her. It's okay if some urine dribbles; as long as your pup finishes urinating outside, consider it a 'win'. As you are heading out, grab the training treats. Also be saying the cue words out loud. Example: 'Let's go do the deed, do you have to go do the deed? Bring your Pug to the designated area and stand in the center of it. With your Pug on leash and harness, allow them to sniff around and choose the perfect spot. Plan to be patient. Some dogs can take up to 15 minutes, particularly if there's a need for a bowel movement. If your Pug pees, but you think he may need go number two, remain in the area. As the deed is being done, offer praise, 'Good dog, you're doing the deed! The very moment that your Pug is done, offer both praise and reward, 'Good dog, you did the deed, good dog! Both of you need to work as a team. If you find that things are not going as planned, re-read the rules and see how closely you are following them. Ahead, we'll touch on some commonly seen house training issues and how to deal with them. Going to the bathroom right after coming back in the house: A very common complaint by owners is that their Pug is peeing in the house soon after being brought back into the home. It can seem as if a pup is doing this on purpose, as if the dog is mocking the training system. But the answer is far more logical than that. In most cases this is because the owner did not have the patience to wait outside while the puppy chose the perfect spot and the body relaxed enough for urination or the muscles had time to push out a bowel movement. After the body relaxed or the bowel muscled readied, the pup was brought back in and of course, went to the bathroom where he or she was at the time: in the house. Stay outside for at least 15 minutes while your Pug is learning his or her housebreaking rules. This can seem like a very long time while standing there and waiting for a dog to go to the bathroom. For this reason, it can help to set up an outside chair, bring a book or take the time to check emails and messages. Barking at night - Is it a bathroom need or a call for attention? One of the hardest elements - but one that you will soon conquer - is to learn your Pug's signals that there is a bathroom need. One of the most challenging times to figure this out is at night when you are awakened by barking. If you are unsure, it's always best to bring your dog outside. However, it will be important to make it very clear that this is a serious time. No playing, no talking and right back to bed afterward. If you are quite certain that barking is due to attention seeking behavior and not for housebreaking reasons, as long as you are sure your Pug is safe and comfortable, all yelps and whines should be ignored. Constant bathroom needs: Puppies may need to pee every couple of hours and adult Pugs depending on how much they drink and often often they eat may need to head out 6 or more times per day. If you feel that your Pug needs to urinate much more then normal, this can point to a health issue with bladder infection and UTI being the most common. So, it's always best to check with the veterinarian. Correcting vs punishment: Pugs are very sensitive and do not react well to being yelled at. For housebreaking, that sort of reaction to accidents will not get you anywhere. Pugs tend to have their feelings hurt if not disciplined the right way and therefore rubbing a dog's nose in poop or getting upset will not be beneficial to actually teaching what is expected. It is best to give tons of enthusiastic praise for deeds done right and forgive accidents. Did you find this to be helpful? It's a page massive book that guides you through every aspect of your Pug's life. All rights reserved. Privacy Policy We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon. Plenty of wipes and toilet tissue 1. Build a potty-training routine When you first start house training your Pug puppy, you should aim to build a routine around their toileting needs. Luckily, their bladders and bowels are fairly predictable, as they are determined by not only their sleeping pattern, but also what they eat and drink. You should always take your puppy out to the toilet first thing as soon as they wake up — and this goes for whenever they wake up from naps too! As well as taking them out first thing in the morning, you should also take them out last thing at night or before you are going to leave them alone for an extended period of time: this is to prevent any accidents overnight or whilst you are gone! On top of this, you should also aim to take your puppy out to the toilet every thirty minutes to an hour. We actually started up a diary of what our puppy had eaten and and how often and what times he tended to urinate and defecate. Take your Pug outside as soon as you see any signs that they need a pee or poop. All puppies have immature diet systems, which means that each meal tends to stimulate their digestive system faster than it would in adult dogs. Generally, puppies need to urinate within fifteen minutes of eating and then do a poop within half an hour of eating. Once your dog has finished eating, take away the food bowl until the next scheduled mealtime. This will prevent your puppy from overindulging. You should also ensure that the food you give your puppy is of the higher possible quality — this means avoiding dog food with artificial colours and preservatives and ensuring that real meat is the primary ingredient. Confinement and consistency When your Pug puppy is in the early stages of potty training, it is good to confine to a small area such as a room, a crate or via a lead until you are confident that they can roam the house freely without accidents. Furthermore, consistency goes hand-in-hand with confinement, and it involves introducing your dogs to select areas to toilet in so that, over time, they will learn to associate going to the toilet with that area of the house or outside. A good way to ease your dog into this component of toilet training is via puppy pad training or crate training. Handy Hint: Never shout or punish a dog for getting it wrong; there are better ways you can discipline a Pug. Essentially, the purpose of the puppy pad is not only to reduce mess, but also to get your puppy used to the idea of doing their business in an approved, select area indoors an area that is easy to clean up! Overtime, your puppy will learn to associate the pad itself with areas where it is okay to toilet, and at this stage it is good to move the mad outside to help them adapt. You can buy puppy pads on Amazon. Here are the ones we used which also have very good Amazon reviews. Crate training Crates are an effective and approved way of toilet training your Pug puppy at the beginning. It helps to avoid mess, helps you keep a closer eye for signs he needs to go and, most crucially, teaches the pup to hold it until they are let outside to go toilet. You can find a suitably-sized crate on Amazon which work well with the Pug breed. Learn to pick up on the signs To avoid accidents in the home, it is good to learn to recognise signs that your Pug needs the toilet. Commons signs include: Sniffing the floor. Looking restless and anxious. Going into an area they have previously toileted in. If your puppy shows any of these signs, take them out to your chosen toileting spot immediately. However, if accidents do happen, it is best to stay calm and not get angry at your puppy, as this will just make them fearful and cause them stress, which will actually result in more random accidents. Use a phrase they will learn to understand One of the most important aspects that goes a long with in potty training your Pug puppy to use a phrase they learn to identify with. By doing so, he would learn to identify the phrase and location with the action. Reward the puppy for a good job When your Pug puppy has finished his pee or poop in the right place, you should give them a reward or positive reinforcement with praise. By rewarding good behavior you will start a pattern of success which can lead to far faster house breaking and training. Never scold them Accidents are going to happen a lot, and whilst this can be frustrating, never shout at or scold the puppy. I remember countless times where I would have just cleaned a pee up from the kitchen floor, only for our puppy to crouch and pee again just seconds later. When should I start potty training my Pug puppy? It is generally recommended to start house training your Pug puppy once they are between 12 weeks and 16 weeks old. This is a good age to start because whilst it means that your puppy is still young enough to learn life-long skills and have their behavior moulded, at this stage your puppy should have enough control over their bladder and bowels to hold it when necessary — making the potty training process easier for them, and cleaner for you! How long does it take to potty train a Pug puppy? There are other factors which come into play though, such as individual temperament and environmental factors. Be prepared for accidents, but above all, have some wipes and tissue paper on hand all the time as you will get through a lot of this stuff! Once you have potty and house trained your Pug puppy he will only ever do his business outside. Get in touch via social media and leave a comment. Similarly, if you have better ideas on how to potty train a Pug puppy, please share those in the community too. The bottom line is this; do not underestimate to the work that goes into taking care of a new puppy. Toilet training your puppy might feel a bit difficult at times, but with the right attitude, attentiveness and patience, they will learn this life-long skill. However, if you have any concerns about their ability to toilet train, always contact a vet or a professional trainer. As unlikely as this is, there are some Pugs who will need expert help. You might also like…. How long does it take to potty train a pug? Most pug pups will be should be relatively trained with within weeks. How often do pugs need to pee? In other words, you should be taking your 3-month old puppy out every 3 hours, your 6-month old puppy every 6 hours, etc. As an adult, I took my pug out once in the morning and once at night. Consistency is important when potty training a pug. With a consistent schedule, your pug will quickly learn when and where they should do their business. Potty training a pug can be accomplished in a few short weeks with patience and consistency. Even better if you let your dog out in your backyard as it helps soil just one area instead of the entire backyard. When potty training a pug, it is important to have patience. Pugs are a unique breed of dog and they require a different approach to potty training than other breeds. But you can their to his strong suit… 5 — Use positive reinforcement: Rewarding your pug for going potty outside will help them to understand that this is what you want them. Positive reinforcement can be done with treats, praise, or even a favorite toy. It is important to be consistent with the rewards so that the pug knows that they are being praised for going to the bathroom in the correct spot. Another way to reward a pug is to take them for a walk or playtime immediately after they go to the bathroom. This will show them that good things happen when they use the restroom outside and will help reinforce the behavior. Crate training can be helpful when potty training a pug. I found that it worked, but I phased it out within a few months of use. I had it indoors and eventually moved it the patio… then completely phased it out when I moved from Downtown Portland in about a year. So this saved me a lot of hassle of getting rained on and cleaning Benji on the way back in. At first, I bought the cheap one from Petco and that was a mistake — it ended stinking! These ones were much better and you can buy replacement turfs. More tips for potty training your pug… 11 — Avoiding Accidents and Setbacks One of the best ways to potty train a pug is by avoiding accidents. If you can keep your pug from having accidents, then they will be less likely to have accidents in the future. One way to avoid accidents is to take them out often, following tip 2 accompanied with positive reinforcement is really all you need. This will help them to learn when they need to go and will also give them a chance to relieve themselves before they have an accident. Another way to avoid accidents is to keep their living area clean. This means keeping their crate or designated potty area clean and free of any debris that could cause an accident. Finally, you should avoid giving your pug food or water right before bed. This will help to prevent any accidents that could occur overnight. Instead, clean up the mess calmly and continue working on their training. While there are definitely some benefits to getting professional help, it is important to keep in mind that potty training, and house training a pug in general, is something that you can do on your own if you are willing to put in the time and effort. A chug — ie. How to discipline a pug? There are many different theories with regards to discipline, and many advocates argue that you can train your dog on positive reinforcement alone. Overall, I would find a trainer online that you can learn their methodology and stick with it.

I am familiar with common and uncommon health problems they may face so when my boyfriend and I decided we were ready to adopt our own english puppy finding a reputable breeder that prioritizes health was most important to us. Erica and Mitch of Bruiser Bulldogs are just that. They are experienced, ethical and quality breeders. I was referred to them by my friend that I trust after I saw their gorgeous healthy puppy. Our Puppy Primrose is the light of our lives! Bruisers was there to assist us every step of the way. We would highly recommend Bruisers Bulldogs to anyone looking for their own happy, healthy pup! Leah H. We were lucky to have come across Bruiser Bulldogs and even more so the fact that they were near our family and hometown made it even better. We have had Clementine Callie for four months now, and she is a wonderful dog. Her personality is amazing, and I think part of it is breeding and the other part is Erika and her family lovingly raising the puppies in their home with plenty of attention and snuggles. I also was impressed that, rather than send the puppies out right at 8 weeks, Erika kept ours for a few extra weeks because she was tiny and not read to leave her mom yet. It's that care that differentiates Bruisers from other breeders. Emily R. Erica was easy to work with thru the entire process from application to adopting and now beyond as we host our new family member, Chief. Her on-call support and willingness to provide open, honest advice to all of our questions and concerns continues to be appreciated. We would highly recommend Bruiser Bulldogs to anyone looking for an English Bulldog to join their family. Elizabeth W. Lady L. They are experienced, responsive and knowledgeable about all things bulldog related. They went above and beyond for us and are truly dedicated to all of their pups! We love our little girl so much and would recommend Bruiser to anyone looking for a healthy beautiful bully. Jonathan E. Erica and Mitch are trustworthy, excellent communicators, fair, passionate, and produce the best bulldogs. We were at the top of the waiting list for months and Erica reached out every litter to see if we were finally ready for a bulldog. When we were, she was very easy to work with. Her knowledge on bulldogs is outstanding. We had many questions on the process and she always knew what was best for the puppy. We've had Penny formerly Blair for two months and she is very healthy, energetic, playful, and sweet. She is great with other people and dogs. We are so happy with our pup. When we are ready for bulldog 2, we will only consider Bruiser Bulldogs. Mitch C. Bowser was born April and is an integral part of our family. When we were first exploring English Bulldog breeders our biggest concern was the overall health of the dogs. We decided to work with Erica at Bruiser Bulldogs because we liked their focus on improving the breeds breathing abilities and the fact that the puppies are raised within her family environment before coming home with their new owners. Bowser also breaths clearly and our vet was impressed with his overall health from the moment we brought him home. All that said we know English Bulldogs have a predisposition to many health issues and that his current health can not predict the future. With that In mind its important to start with a breeder that open to answer any of your questions as Erica has ours, and that strongly believes in improving the breeds overall health profile. Adam B. My sister ended up finding Bruiser Bulldogs and we knew right away that they were the breeder for us. In September we ended up driving 9 hours to pick up two Bruiser bulldog puppies- one for my husband and I and one for my mom. Jackson and Penelope have been nothing but a joy. They are both very athletic and healthy. They are also HUGE snugglers and always want to be with you. It is an absolute pleasure having these two bullies in our lives! Erica is very knowledgeable about the breed. She is very hands on throughout the process and is just overall a kind and honest person to work with. With all that being said I cannot recommend Bruiser Bulldogs enough! Collyn C. One of the reasons we chose Bruiser Bulldogs was due to the claims about breeding for health. During our first visit at our vet's office, he told us that our pup was one of the healthiest English bulldogs he had ever seen. He is healthy, happy and social. Would recommend to anyone. Christina S. We seen our dog on their website and sent them an Email. Mitch called us and personally walked us through the process and made sure we had the right dog for our family. We couldn't be happier when we picked up our dog Ramsey, Erica made sure we had everything we needed and then some. They are truly amazing people who breed truly amazing dogs! Jim T. Free Bulldog Puppy Starter Kit! While there is no specific gene that causes the lilac color, it nevertheless requires a combination of two dominant genes—one for chocolate and one for blue—for it to appear. In that respect, the only chance for a puppy to be lilac colored is if both parents carry the chocolate and blue dominant gene. This is what makes lilac colored English bulldogs so rare. Do lilac tri bulldogs have health issues? While some English bulldogs will deal with health issues sometime during their lifetime, it is never a result of their color. If you adopt a lilac colored puppy from Bulldog Angels, then you can rest easy knowing that your pup will be just as healthy as all of our other English bulldog puppies. Blue English bulldogs Lilac colored English bulldogs will have blue eyes. A blue-eyed dog is extremely uncommon and typically the result of a recessive gene that not even the best bulldog breeder could control. Some owners fear blue eyes are a sign that your dog will eventually go blind, deaf, or suffer from some other genetic defect. This, however, is not always the case, and blue eyes do not automatically mean that your pup will suffer from any health issues later down the line. As an AKC certified breeder, we at Bulldog Angels have lovable, lilac colored puppies that are looking for their forever homes. Take a look at our available puppies online or give us a call at to learn more. Our website offers a comprehensive list of AKC registered English Bulldog Merle puppies, each waiting to become a cherished part of your family. Join us as we delve into the beauty and origin of Lilac Merle English Bulldogs and explore their delightful temperaments to find your ideal furry friend. What is a Lilac Merle English Bulldog? The Lilac Merle English Bulldog is a captivating variation of the classic English Bulldog breed, known for its unique coat coloration. This enchanting appearance sets them apart from the standard Bulldogs and makes them irresistible to dog enthusiasts. The emergence of Lilac Merle coat pattern in English Bulldogs is the result of a fascinating genetic interplay. It is not a separate breed but rather a unique trait that arises due to specific gene combinations. Responsible breeding practices are essential to ensuring the health and well-being of Lilac Merle English Bulldog puppies. At CheapPuppiesForSale. Temperament of English Bulldogs Proper socialization, training, and regular exercise are essential to nurturing a well-rounded and well-behaved Lilac Merle English Bulldog. About Misty If you are looking for the perfect puppy, then you can just stop looking because I am the one for you. If you want a puppy who will be by your side for years to come, pick up the phone and call about me now! Reviews There are no reviews yet.

Why Is My Dog Shaking? Dogs are known for their loyalty and companionship, but when they start shaking, it can be a cause for concern for pet owners. Shaking in dogs can be a sign of various issues, from dog anxiety and dog fear to dog medical conditions. In this blog post, we will explore the common causes of a dog shaking and what pet owners can do to identify and treat the problem. We will also offer tips for preventing dog shaking and ensuring.By doing regular grooming at home, you can help your dog look its best between visits to the groomer. You also get to bond more closely and build stronger trust with your dog. Routine grooming sessions will keep your dog clean and feeling fresh, but it will also.Their personality is lively, their nature fun-loving, and their disposition affectionate. As even-tempered, sweet, and playful dogs, Pugs make wonderful playmates for kids of all ages and lovely companion pets for couples, singles, and seniors. These little joy bringers love to cuddle and are generous with their Pug love. When it comes to their family, Pugs attach like magnets. They are known to happily shadow their humans in every activity and are just as happy lazing on the couch all day as they are going for a long evening stroll around the neighborhood. Nicknames: Sadie Girl. Sadie the Lady. Sex: Female Weight: 21 lbs. Energy Level: Lower with little bursts of playful energy. Descriptor Words: Middle-aged Pug…. .Expert In: Sidekick-ing. At home, she is also thrilled to cuddle up right with you, but she'll play independently when needed. Her exquisite Pug noises. Her excited dance. Her mastery of the downward dog position. How she makes room to snuggle, even if there is no room. If she wants to snuggle, you are snuggling. What she loves most: Hedgehog toys or most any toy for that matter. Mealtime, which is evident by her dancing and subsequent full-steam-ahead running towards the bowl. What she knows: Not much tbh! She is very good on leash though, if that counts.Kids: Though she has not lived with any, we expect she will do well with any dog-savvy, respectful kiddo. Dogs: Sure! She would often play with her son Jack and now co-exists with her Pug foster brother. Heads up, she does like to eat alone and in peace. Cats: Has not met a cat yet, though we do not imagine she would have any issues living with one. House-trained: Yep! Crate-trained: Yes, loves her crate. Sadie is spayed, vaccinated, heartworm negative, and microchipped. She is available for adoption to CT and surrounding states. If you are interested in adopting, please complete an application from omdrescue. Daisy Dukes. Before OMD: Owner surrender to the rescue when they determined she had more energy than they could handle. Energy level: So. We know she looks like a Pug, but she has the energy of an Australian Shepherd. She has SO much energy and will need to be exercised accordingly. What we love: Her zest for life; she is always so happy. The funny little noise she makes when she yawns. What she loves: Food. She would sell you down the street for a moldy French fry. Watching the world go by from the porch. She has a vendetta against using blankets — active blanket use if forbidden — folding blankets also really pisses her off. She comes alive at night. She will bark at noises outside and likes doing laps around the house. She is better behaved in her crate at night with a blanket over the top. Independence level: Extraordinarily low. She wants to be with you, on you, kiss you, touch you at all times. Think of her as your new appendage. Campaign slogan: A Pug for the people. She loves everyone immediately. What she knows: Sit, maybe? Going potty outside. Not smothering you in your sleep. Dogs: Sure! She lives with two male dogs one large and one small now and does great. Not mandatory though as long as she can get enough attention from her family. Kids: Respectful, dog-savvy kids. House-trained: She is pee pad trained to perfection. Crate-trained: Yes, and settles down after a few minutes. Daisy is spayed, vaccinated, heartworm negative, and microchipped. She is available for adoption to CT and surrounding states. If you are interested in adopting, please complete an application from omdrescue.

Puppy food is high in protein and basic nutrients and as such will help your dog gain that much needed weight. You might choose to begin feeding your pregnant pooch puppy food when you discover her pregnancy or if you know that your dog is prone to weight fluctuations, you might decide to wait until weeks before its whelping the birth. Moreover, you should choose the puppy chow that you plan on feeding your puppies. This will make it easier for the puppies to transition to puppy food — in terms of their overall health and more specifically their GI balance. Begin when they turn 3 weeks old. Over the next 2 to 3 weeks, you'll feed them puppy food more and more and they'll nurse less and less. Do not rush weaning for any puppies that are slow to eat on their own. This can lead to malnourishment. It's better to let them continue to nurse from their mother and slow the puppy weaning process a bit. Most likely, if you place the puppy in front of its food, it will eat it. Some puppies, on rare occasions, may resist eating the puppy chow. Simply pick up the puppy and place it in front of its food. Do this once or twice. Eventually, your puppy will chow down on the food. Start by separating the puppies from their mother for 1 hour, 2 or 3 times a day. Take the mother to another part of the yard or house. Leave the puppies with their food bowls. During the weaning process, monitor their health. Make sure that they are gaining weight equally. Check for vomit and diarrhea. Consult your veterinarian if any problems or questions arise. As with all the other steps, the key is gradual change. This will help her digestive system cope with the change and it will continue to give her milk the nutrients of the puppy chow. Over the next couple of weeks, switch her entirely back to her normal adult dog food. At around 7 weeks old your puppy should be completely weaned. They should also be eating dry puppy food and drinking water. This natural process allows puppies to become independent feeders and reduces the physical demands on the mother as the puppies grow. The discomfort of nursing teething puppies may cause the mother to pull away before her puppies are completely satisfied. Hungry puppies will naturally seek an alternate source of food. Steps for Weaning Puppies To start weaning, you will remove the mother from the puppies for an hour, two to three times a day, to try eating solid food. Step 1: Make a Gruel Make a gruel of canned or dry puppy food mixed with puppy milk replacer or water. Look for a well-known, name-brand puppy food that is not grain-free. Ideally use the same brand of food that the mother dog eats. If the puppies do not take to the gruel, try blending this ratio: 2 cups of puppy food .Place the puppies in front of it. If the puppies do not seem interested, try dipping your finger in it and then touching their mouths so they can taste it. They may get messy in the process of exploring this new food. Step 3: Reunite the Puppies With Their Mother When the mother dog is reunited with her puppies, allow her to lick the remainder of the food from the dish and to lick the puppies clean. The gruel should be transitioned to less liquid and more solid until the puppies are able to eat the canned or dry food without diluting it. If a puppy is not ready, continue to offer meals in the presence of another puppy, if possible. The example of exploration with solid food will encourage this behavior. How to Feed Puppies After Weaning After the puppies are completely weaned , offer them three to four solid food meals a day until they are 6 months old, then two to three meals a day depending on their breed requirements and growth. Be sure that each puppy is gaining weight and not vomiting or having diarrhea. Seek veterinary care if problems arise. What to Feed the Mother Dog The mother dog should begin to eat puppy food during pregnancy , especially during the final two or three weeks. Consider a puppy food from the same brand that she is already accustomed to eating. She should continue eating the puppy food as she begins to nurse her puppies. Dry puppy food should be available at regular meal times. This will keep the mother dog from excessively eating it and allow the puppies to develop an appetite between meals. The demand for producing milk will decline as the puppies begin to eat solid food. With less time spent nursing, her milk production will decrease. At week four, gradually transition the mother dog back to eating regular dog food, which will also help to reduce her milk supply. By week seven or eight, her milk production will cease without the stimulation of nursing puppies once they are completely weaned. Featured Image: iStock. She completed an internship in small.Help us make PetMD better Was this article helpful? Weaning and Sale Weaning: At 3 to 4 weeks of age, a dish of water and dish of gruel should be introduced to the pups. Feed a high quality dry puppy food, softened with warm goat milk or water to make a gruel. This can be fed in a low heavy dish 4 times daily. Gradually decrease the amount of time the pups spend with their mother at this point. Beginning at 2 weeks of age, they should be wormed with NemexR for the first time, then weekly until 2 negative fecal samples results are obtained, unless the bitch was on the PanacurR protocol during pregnancy. By 5 to 6 weeks of age, they should be weaned and eating only puppy food. From this point on, the pups will become more fun and a lot more work. It can become difficult to keep the pups confined and they can be messy and destructive. An exercise pen or playpen can be helpful. The first 3 weeks with the puppies are relatively neat and clean. Mom will lick them frequently and ingest all of their urine and feces. However, upon starting on solid food, the mom will give up this quest and you will now have to deal with excrement. There are many ways to keep the pups clean. This, with some practice, will give the pups a place to eliminate thereby keeping their bedding clean. In addition to providing bedding to allow for good footing, the shavings tray, and food and water dishes, the pups should have a bed to sleep in and acceptable chew toys. Stuffed Kongs, soft toys, and rawhides should be changed regularly to provide environmental variety and developmental stimulation. By this time, they should have increased human social contact. At 8 weeks, your pups should be examined, vaccinated, checked for worms, and wormed. Boosters should be administered every 3 to 4 weeks until 16 weeks of age. By 6 weeks of age, they can go outdoors with supervision for brief periods, if the weather is acceptable. Leaving The Nest: Eight to ten weeks is an ideal age socially to place pups in their new homes. The pups should have a great deal of human contact. A great challenge comes in selecting which, if any, pups are to be kept. It can be difficult to let them go out into the big world. Potential puppy buyers should be carefully screened to assure they are the right home for your pup. We recommend you sign a contract with puppy buyers. Contracting For Puppy Sales: We recommend all puppies sold be sold with a written agreement defining the details of the the sale. For example, the health guarantee and conditions of sale are topics that need to defined prior to the sale to avoid any misunderstandings. Thanks to Dr.