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Photo by Brad Starkey on Unsplash Well, it varies from dog to dog. Most dogs develop their vocal cords by the time they reach weeks old. When does a Labrador puppy start barking? As I already mentioned, many puppies start to bark when they are weeks old , and the same goes for Labrador puppies. You can expect to hear your lab puppy barking at an early age. They also bark the same as any other small, medium, or large breed , and sometimes they might start barking late compared to other puppies. As they reach 7 to 8 weeks, you can expect your Labrador puppy to bark. At that age, dogs get confident in making sounds. Some Labradors or puppies might not bark, even after reaching 16 weeks old. Just be patient with them. Let them get comfortable with making sounds. Maybe they need more time to discover everything. Maybe your puppy has a quiet personality, especially Labradors because they are generally quiet and calm dogs. So, they might not bark often. Why do puppies bark? So, they have developed a unique way of communication. There are many other reasons. Communication Maybe they want to talk to you and express their feelings. Want to grab attention Your dog might be feeling bored and want someone to give them attention. So, sometimes they can bark to get some love from the people around them. So, if you find your dog barking, then go and give him a tight hug! Fear Dogs use barking to bark at something they are afraid of. Just take it as a positive side of your dog. These were some of the significant reasons why your dog barks. Though, there are many more. But, these were some of the reasons you should be aware of. How to teach Labrador to bark? Labradors are a very friendly breed and do not normally bark much, but there are some ways you can get labradors to start barking. You only need to follow certain tricks to accomplish this. So, you should print off these tips and learn them so you can teach your lab to start barking. First, teach the quiet command Before you begin teaching your dog to bark, first, you should go through quiet commands. So that whenever you want them to stop barking you can command them. Plenty of treats Whenever they do something right, reward them. When they start understanding your command, cut down the number of treats. Hand Signal Adding hand signals can be beneficial. Along with a voice gesture, try to add a hand gesture. Your commands will be more clear for your dog. Label the bark It is one of the essential steps, and you need to follow this. Whenever your dog barks, try to immediately label it with a command. It will keep them motivated, and they will follow all your commands next time. Have patience Stopping your puppy from barking will not happen in one night. It might take you several weeks or even months. But, if your training process is good then your puppy will learn it even quicker. You can also consider clicker training. You have to use the sound of clickers to label the barks. It is the best way to teach your dog because it has a unique sound and is pretty different from the human voice. Yes, they do learn to bark from other dogs. As your puppy grows, it becomes more conscious and therefore starts adapting to its surroundings. They also tend to mimic older dogs and learn numerous things from them. Just like humans when we were young. We used to mimic our parents to some extent and start learning our native language. The same goes for dogs. Today, he has had two walks already, two Kong wobblers filled with kibble, I had a little training session with him, gave him a new toy which he ignored after 5 minutes of play , … and it's only one a clock in the afternoon! I certainly haven't spent too little time with him. I've been home a lot, so he has been left alone in his crate only for short stretches of time. He barks for more attention, I guess. I just ignored him barking while writing this. Fortunately he stopped some times he doesn't and now he's finally snoring. When he stops, I give him attention, telling him he's a good boy. But sometimes it seems like it's going to go on forever! It has driven me completely mad, I'm feeling sorry for my neighbors no complaints yet, fortunately, they are very understanding. May this be a developmental phase? A friend of mine told me she feared she had to rehome her 9 month old lab because he was being very silly at that age, because of his hormones. My dog is not neutered and I'm not planning to do so. I hope I'm doing the right thing by ignoring his barking and praising him when he stops. Fortunately he becomes very quiet and calm in the evening and night. Part of the problem may also be a blessing: I'm the only person in the house, so he's very attached to me and has his attention on me almost constantly. Might be a great benefit in training him. I hope this phase passes quickly, because it's cracking my nerves. Sometimes I'm afraid to move in my own house. When he's finally relaxing, I try not to move, because simply going to the toilet can make him overexcited again. So silly! I feel like I can not do what I want anymore in my own house! He's such a nervous dog, or maybe I'm the nervous one and we are igniting each other…? It can cause sleepless nights, family fights, neighbour disputes and much more. The reasons for barking in any breed of dog, can be complex. And dogs can be taught to communicate without doing it. Interestingly many Labradors rarely bark at all. For those of you struggling with a noisy dog this probably seems very unfair! One of the first things we need to establish before we can stop a Labrador from barking, is why he is doing this. I understand that. But bear with me, because the method we use to stop your Labrador barking will depend very much on why he is doing it. Why Do Dogs Bark? Fortunately we usually only need to consider three different types of barking when it comes to Labs that are barking all the time and driving their owners up the wall. Types of Labrador Barking The three most common types of unwanted and frequent barking are Barking for attention, Barking at passers-by. Is Your Labrador Barking for Attention? Attention or demand barking can be very upsetting. The dog will often bark incessantly as soon as anyone gets up, moves around, or whenever he is feeling ignored. Attention barking dogs will often repeatedly take things too, socks, cushions, and then bark furiously if prevented. While all puppies vary in their natural inclination to make a noise, what happens around those puppies, as they grow up and even as adult, has a huge impact on their future behavior. The root cause of barking for attention Attention or demand barking usually starts with an exited or bored dog, combined with frustration and a big reward. Especially if they are already in an over-excited state, or bored witless. The first step in creating a dog that barks to demand attention happens when he is rewarded generously each time he does it. Very often people do this inadvertently. The dog barks, and they give him his dinner, the dog stops barking. It seems to work. How demand barking gets started Rewarding unwanted behaviors by mistake is very common. Anything that your dog finds enjoyable, even the sound of your voice, can reward and therefore reinforce the behavior that precedes it. By reinforce we mean that the behavior will be more likely to occur again. The laws of behavioral science are quite clear on this. Good consequences reinforce bad behavior. Every time. Only this time you might not want to give him what he wants. Indeed you might not be ABLE to give him what he wants. He persists, and you get fed up with the noise, so you relent and give in. And before you know where you are, you have a big, and growing, problem on your hands. Can You Cure Labrador Barking? The short answer is yes. In fact, it is one of the common behavioral problems that is relatively easy to solve. But you will need to be determined. And you will need other family members on board. Your anti-barking strategy You need to draw up your battle plan and attack this problem from three directions. Keeping your dog calm and occupied All dogs are much more likely to bark with frustration when they are over-excited or very bored. If members of your family are getting your dog in a state, winding him up, and playing rough games with him in the house, now is a good time to have a quiet word. And if your dog spends very little time in training sessions, he may be badly in need of some more of your attention and a little mental stimulation. Ten minutes, preferably morning and evening, spent training him and making him use his brain will make a world of difference. No more putting the lead on the dog when he barks for a walk. And no more opening the door when he barks to go out in the garden. Let him out when he is quiet and do it often enough to cover his bathroom requirements! All the rewards have to STOP. He is going to try even harder to begin with. Bark, bark, BARK…! But you are not going to give in are you? I thought not. You can use a snappy version of the word YES as your marker. And alway follow your marker with a reward. The reward can often take the form of giving the dog the thing you think he wants like letting him out through the dog for example , if that is possible. Why do I need a marker? Or it can simply be some food. If you are going to use much food you need to clip a treat back to your belt or keep handy pots of treats around the house. The reason you need a marker as well as the reward is because to begin with, your dog may not be quiet for very long. Try to ensure that nothing whatever happens to benefit the puppy whilst he continues to bark. This is not always easy but it is essential. Prepare to mark silence At some point the puppy will pause. That is all you can do the first time this happens. But you can prepare ahead to reduce the chances of it happening again, and to make it easier to control the behavior in the future. Avoid barking triggers Think about the circumstances that triggered the barking, and avoid them to begin with where possible. This is especially important with puppies. Puppies, for example, have very short attention spans. Being made to sit and wait for a toy or their dinner is likely to result in whining or barking. Could the dog have been very bored? Providing stuffed Kongs for him to chew can help a puppy cope with periods of boredom, keeping him occupied whilst you eat a meal for example. Breaking his day up into short chunks and ringing the changes can help to keep him occupied. For example, 30 minutes in his crate followed by 15 minutes in the garden and another 15 minutes in the house whilst you keep an eye on him, rinse and repeat. This is less likely to result in boredom than two hours in the crate, an hour digging up your roses, and another hour getting under your feet in the kitchen. With an older dog, remember to ensure that he has had sufficient exercise and some time spent training. Your puppy should not be deprived of human love and companionship. Dogs that are isolated, and lonely may develop a serious barking habit. So think hard before you kennel a dog outdoors or leave him alone in the house all day. Having said that, all puppies need to learn to spend some time alone. Albeit short periods of time to begin with. And some puppies may start barking when crated or shut in a puppy proof room. There are things you can do to avoid this risk. And only when they are quiet. This is very useful to us when we are teaching puppies to be quiet around the home and in their crate. Creating an easily closed visual barrier between you and the puppy can really help with barking and whining. You can impose the visual barrier when the dog behaves inappropriately and remove it when he behaves well. The open door technique One way of doing this is to put the puppy in a crate in another room but to position the crate where he can see you clearly whilst the door between the two rooms is open. If he is silent, the door is left open. If he makes a noise you simply close the door. This technique can be very useful when a dog has got into a habit of barking during mealtimes for example. You will find that to begin with you have to close the door a lot! But he will soon catch on. Building quiet habits in your Labrador Remember, build good habits and quiet behavior right from the start. Reward your puppy often when he is quiet and relaxed. Last but not least, remember to plan ahead so that you are prepared with distractions for those times when he is likely to be bored or demanding. Barking At Night Dogs bark at night for a number of reasons. And it is always a big deal. Puppies bark at night or early in the morning, to get company, because they need the toilet, or because they are hungry. Older dogs sometimes start barking at night because they are disturbed, and enjoy the company that results, so triggering a barking habit. We look at all this, and more in our comprehensive article on night waking and nocturnal barking in Labradors. Barking at Passers-By This is a very common problem. How many times have you had to walk the length of a garden fence with a dog flying along parallel to you and barking its head off? Even for the most dog-savvy person, this can be quite an un-nerving experience. Especially if you have small children or a nervous dog with you. As the owner of the dog in question, it can be a serious source of embarrassment. If you are worried that your Labrador barking at passers-by is upsetting people, it probably is. Barking at the window You quite often see dogs in the window of a house trying to do the same thing. Tearing up and down a window sill or along the back of a sofa, flying at the glass as though they are about to break through it. Dogs in cars can be the same. Passer-by syndrome What is happening in the situations above is a phenomenon known as passer-by syndrome. Learning theory tells us that any Labrador behavior that is immediately within seconds rewarded, will be reinforced. That is to say, the behavior will be more likely to happen again in the future. This is exactly what is happening with passer-by syndrome. They appear, then disappear again within seconds of appearing! Many dogs are a little wary of total strangers. Others quite enjoy the sound of their own voices, or simply like running up and down. So you can imagine what happens if the dog runs up and down, or gives a little bark during the few seconds that the passer by is in view. Just seconds later the passer by has gone again! If the dog finds that disappearance rewarding, and many dogs do, anything he did just before the person vanished will be reinforced. That means it is much more likely to happen again in the future. And so as time goes on, and more passers by, pass by. The barking increases. That little woof becomes another woof, then several woofs. Any running up and down also increases and gets faster. The barking and excitement is continually reinforced, and will get worse and worse. So you need to act, preferably sooner rather than later. Whilst you can reward good behavior when you are there, you cannot control what passers by do, or how your dog reacts to them when you are out of sight. Owners of a barking dog can find this very frustrating to hear, but established problems do require committed responses sometimes. Although you might feel annoyed to hear there is no quick fix, you should feel pleased that you can regain control of the situation through another means. Remove visual access Indoors, preventing your Labrador from seeing the source of his excitement can sometimes simply be a matter of closing the curtains. In gardens it is more difficult and may require the construction of a visual barrier or fence. If you live in a rented property then you will need to talk to your landlord or erect a temporary gap-free barrier behind the fixed fenceline. If you have to leave a dog alone in a car for a short period of time, you may be able to prevent visual access to passers by quite simply using a piece of cardboard against the windows. This may all seem like a big deal, but if you suspect your dog is beginning to develop passer by syndrome it is well worth nipping it in the bud. Left untreated it can become a truly unpleasant problem. Some dogs bark every time a car door slams out in the street not quite so reasonable Some dogs bark every time a door closes in your house, every time there is a footstep in the flat upstairs, every time a cup is plonked on the kitchen counter not reasonable at all and so on. If your dog does this, and constantly barks at every little sound, footstep, or voice, the chances are you have had enough of it. A great system for improving this particular problem is to teach your dog to bark on cue. If that is what you want. Like being warm, affectionate, friendly, and brilliant retrievers. Nervous or Reactive Labrador Barking? Some dogs bark out of fear or anxiety. This tends to be more of an issue outdoors in the wide world, where your dog has to meet with other dogs and people. This is demand barking so the rules above apply. Do avoid triggers that overwhelm your dog while doing the training above. Set him achievable goals. Jul 05, What would you say if your Labrador Retriever could talk to you? And at times, it feels like the dog is barking just to make noise. The challenge of owning a Labrador Retriever is translating and curbing their barking. Continue reading this article to learn why your Labrador barks at seemingly random times and how you can teach them to bark less. Compared to other breeds, Labs are moderate barkers. Whereas some breeds have excessive barking habits, Labs are a little more reserved. How much your pet barks comes down to temperament and personality. You can determine their temperament by looking at: How do they react to people? Are they playful, shy, or calm? A dog that gets excited around people will bark more than one who is comfortable in crowds. How developed are their socialization skills? What are their energy and activity levels? An energetic dog is less likely to exhibit quiet behavior than a docile dog. How willing are they to be trained? Some Labs are natural people pleasers and are interested in learning commands and listening when told not to bark, while others are more independent and have to get the last word in. So, you can influence their personality somewhat through proper training and socialization. For example, if your Lab spends time around other dogs that bark a lot, they might think barking is fun and engage in it more than a dog that lives a quieter lifestyle. Likewise, if you train your dog to bark when someone comes to the door, they might associate barking with pleasing their owner and start doing so more frequently. Are they barking for attention? Do they start barking when they want to go outside? On the contrary, your dog might be more laid back and passive. If this is the case, your dog may not bark much except to alert you of danger. Additionally, your dog might bark more or less based on how much you encourage it to bark. Encouraging your dog to be more vocal is fine if it works for your lifestyle, but in most cases, people want to reserve barking for important communication, not for playtime. In most cases, body language accompanies Lab barking, which can help you determine what your dog is trying to say. Labradors bark for many reasons. The most common reasons for barking are: Playing. How to Stop Excessive Labrador Barking While a dog bark is perfectly natural, a Labrador barking too much is a headache for an owner and a nuisance for neighbors. There are many reasons for a barking dog, such as people passing by a window; barking at other dogs when out on a walk or barking because they have been left alone a barking can quite literally drive you mad. Well, almost. A barking Lab can cause problems with neighbours, other dog owners and even within the family. It is a big problem and one that really needs to be addressed. At the right time and place it can be positive. Fact: Labrador Barking can drive neighbors and any family member a bit crazy at time. Labrador barking is a fact of canine life. It is a perfectly normal way for a dog to communicate. There are many triggers for barking including when a stranger enters the home, when something is out of the ordinary such as a strange sound or noise. Working dogs will bark as an essential part of herding or for keeping danger away. Barking is even welcome when a dog is acting as a "watch dog" or in cases where there is danger such as a fire. The first step in correcting the issue is to understand why dogs make sounds in the first place. Research has been conducted on the types of dogs that bark more than others. There is no difference between the sexes, but there is a difference between breeds. Terriers, Beagles and herding dogs bark more than others. If you can, training starts as a puppy. After bringing a pup home keep him in a nearby crate, even at night. This way the puppy learns trust and security instead of anxiety. Slowing introduce a range of situations when young, so that they become familiar. This includes exposure to strangers. A secure well trained dog is less likely to feel insecure or suffer from separation anxiety Dogs Bark and Vocalize to Communicate Dogs are taught to use sound when they are a puppy. After birth, a pup makes a "mew" type noise when they are uncomfortable and need warmth of the mother or food. The sounds get louder in intensity when the pup has bigger problems such as when frustrated or is the puppy is hurt. As they age, scientists place the Labrador barking sounds into five classifications: Dog Bark: Sometimes the cause of excessive barking is the owner. For example, if a dog barks to get attention, if an owner responds, then the behavior is positively reinforced. Working dogs quickly learn that barking is an effective way to herd animals. The bark is commonly used as a warning signal, to let others know that a territory belongs to the dog, when bored, when quickly startled, when alone, due to anxiety or if being teased. Some dogs see barking as part of play. Howling: Howling, unlike normal Labrador barking is usually associated with wolves, a dog howl is also common. Dogs that are outdoors learn that the howl sound can carry long distances as a way of communicating to other dogs. The howl is also used to set the boundary of a territory, to find other dogs, and to let the pack know where to hunt or attack. A howl can also be a warning to other dogs when danger approaches. Whining: Unlike the howl with is for communicating at longer distances, a whine is effective for shorter distances. A whine is a common way two dogs acknowledge the other, show that they are submissive to a pack leader, or if the dog is in pain or feeling frustrated. The whine can also be a request for attention from an owner. Like Labrador barking, if an owner positively responds, then the dog learns that a dog whine is an effective way of getting an owner to respond. The whine is therefore positively rewarded by the owner who is reinforcing the negative behavior. Sometimes this starts as a puppy who finds an owner paying attention with every puppy whine. Dog Grunting: This noise doesn't have many meanings in dogs and is simply a way to acknowledge another dog or to show that a dog is content. Dog Growling: As we know a growling dog is a happy dog. It is often used when a dog senses a threat, to warn off a potential threat, or to show canine dominance in a pack. Along with a dog growl often comes some type of body position or posture which indicates the nature of the growl. An aggressive dog posture is accompanied by a snarl and stare. The dog will remain in place during this behavior. A playful dog may growl along with a tail wag and jumping to show that it is play time. A growl when holding onto a ball or tugging a rope with an owner is just part of the fun. General Labrador Dog Barking Training Tips The first requirement for controlling Labrador barking is to have a dog that is relaxed enough to be receptive to training. This is why some Veterinarians recommend a medication or a homeopathic such as PetCalm before training begins. If your dog already obeys commands, then she is a perfect candidate for barking behavior modification. Do not just command a dog to stop barking such as by saying "stop" or "no. Use a new word such as "enough" to signal the time when you want less barking. Always say it in the same tone, and only in relation to a dog bark. Use positive rewards when a dog does do as you ask. Do not use physical punishment as this will just reinforce feelings of fear and anxiety. Find a special treat for Labrador barking related training such as cooked chicken or a meat snack. Provide some other form of reinforcement such as petting the dog when providing the treat. Eventually, just petting will be reward enough. Never reinforce barking behavior by playing with the dog when she is barking. This just communicates that making noise is an acceptable behavior. It goes without saying that a puppy should never be encouraged to bark at people or other animals. Behavior training sessions should never be longer than 5 to 10 minutes. There is also no reason why you can't hire a dog trainer to assist. Correcting or stopping barking means that the owner has to first understand the trigger for the bark, and then either eliminate or modify the behavior based on this understanding. Alert and Warning Dog Barks This falls under the acceptable types of dog barks. They are often encouraged, particularly if a dog thinks that a family member is in danger or if a stranger is acting suspiciously. These lower pitch barks tend to pick up in volume and frequency as a stranger approaches. Note if the dog is using a combination of barks and growls, as this is a more aggressive posture. Try to understand if the behavior is due to being aggressive or if the dog is actually afraid. Where this behavior is not acceptable is if a dog barks at the mailman, joggers, children passing by and others. The problem is that since these people pass by, the dog actually thinks that the barking caused the person to move out of his territory. One approach is to keep a dog away from the window. This way they don't see the mailman and the Labrador barking issue goes away. If this isn't easy, then the key is to make sure that the dog isn't rewarded for barking. The key is sometimes to let the dog that a quick dog bark or two is "enough. Sometimes allowing one or two barks and then say "enough" might change the behavior. Another dog bark training tip is to teach have someone knock on the door. After two barks, stop knocking and have someone else distract the dog in order to divert attention to something else. If she stops, say "enough" and provide praise and a treat. If the puppy does not stop put a treat in front of her nose. When she stops for a second, say "enough" and wait a few seconds. If she is quiet, then provide the treat. The goal is to have the puppy associate the word "enough" with the behavior to stop barking. If a dog is afraid, such as fear of a new visitor, then a different approach is required. The goal here is to each your dog to stay relaxed when a stranger approaches. The dog should look to you for how to behave. Start by have someone approach you and the dog from far away. Provide treats as the dog stays relaxed. Slowly over time have someone approach a drop closer, to the point where the dog doesn't stay relaxed. When people get really close, have them throw treats to the dog, so treats are associated with people. Do this in open areas away from others not involved in the training to avoid distractions or confusion. This is often the case where a dog associates a bark with getting attention. Often this behavior is taught when the dog is young To undue this type of behavior, simply ignore the dog until he or she learns that barking doesn't equal play time, treats or a pat on the head. Even if you say "enough" to the Labrador dog barking, it is still a form of attention, which reinforces the behavior. Here, barking can be controlled by correcting the behavior. Create a startling noise when a dog starts to bark such as shaking coins in a can or a horn. This will startle the dog and being to associate barking with an unfamiliar and uncomfortable sound. At this point provide s substitute for barking such as a Kong Toy. Other forms of reward can be a walk or play time. Dog Barking During Play If a dog wants to play, expect barks that are short. A dog will sometimes break out into a bark when it gets over excited, particularly when playing a game. The key to stopping this dog bark is to stop play for a little while. Barking Response to Other Dogs Dogs use barking to identify themselves in a pack, particularly over short distances. If a dog hears a neighbor's dog, then they will feel compelled to respond. Bored Dog Barking Some Labrador barking is to self entertain themselves when bored. After all, would you like to lay around the house all day? The best approach for this kind of barking is to try and increase the number of walks or exercise sessions. You could also buy a Kong toy which keeps dogs entertained via a hidden treat that they have to figure out how to get. Keep this toy out of reach and bring it out once a day for entertainment. If boredom barking is an issue, an engaging toy could help. These toys can also be used to distract a barking dog, such as when a stranger visits the home. Barking for Identification with Other Dogs A dog barks in order to make his presence known with other dogs in the neighborhood. Some dogs do this by instinct. If there are multiple dogs, usually one starts and others follow. The approach to this type of barking is to provide a distraction whenever it starts such as a Kong Toy as shown above. Separation Anxiety and Barking A dog that is anxious when someone or another dog leaves may bark. For example, in one case a dog would only bark when a companion left the home first. The solution was to have the problem dog out of the room whenever the other dog was taken for a walk. Once the trigger was removed, the problem stopped. In other casts a dog feels anxiety when a member of the family leaves. As the person moves away from the home, the dog becomes more anxious. One approach is to distract the dog when someone leaves with a Kong Toy as shown above. Another approach is to teach the dog that the person leaving will return by leaving a comforting signal. There are also homeopathic or natural products such as PetCalm which may help anxious dogs. Another approach is to teach the dog how to relax in these situations. For example, act like you are about to go out of the house, but don't leave. This can be a simple act such as dropping keys into a tray or ringing a bell. Gradually do the same, but leave the house, but come right back in a minute. Start to extend the time a little bit each day. Another tip is to vary the routine when leaving. If you put on shoes then grab keys, do the reverse some days. If a dog can't pick up on the clues, they may not become anxious. Some days, don't leave at all, but stay in the home. Some dogs respond well to continuity in the home when a person leaves. For example, play music while in the home, and keep the music on when you leave. This will feel more familiar to the dog. If the anxiety is due to something outside the house, then keep the shades closed. Providing a walk before you leave will also keep the dog from getting bored. Destructive Dogs and Barking If a dog is destructive, get a hidden video camera and tape your dog when you leave. You might discover that the dog get anxious and starts to destroy household items only right before you usually come home. Don't punish a dog that has this behavior. As an alternative, say "hello" and then go about your tasks. The goal is to associate you coming home with something pleasant such as together time. Medications can also be prescribed to calm a dog or owners can try a homeopathic such as PetCalm if a dog is unable to keep control. Barking When Startled This happens when a dog responds to a situation that is unfamiliar or sudden. These are hard to avoid unless you can remove identified triggers. If a dog barks when started, then a verbal command such as "enough" combined with behavior modification. If you know the sound that is the trigger, record it and play it back for the dog at a soft level. Find the level where the dog stays relaxed. Slowly increase the volume until the sound is no longer startling. Pathological Dog Barking Pathological Labrador barking refers to abnormal behavior. This can occur in a number of situation including: separation anxiety obsessive-compulsive barking barking at a leaf that falls aggressive barking If your dog suffers from this type of issue, then it is best to work with a veterinarian for medications, and a professional trainer. Dog Bark Collar Training Dog bark collars use a scent, air, static shock or vibration that occurs whenever a dog starts to bark. The collars are often used with behavior modification techniques described above. Some collars have varying degrees of air or shock, making it easier to find the unpleasant level. The problem with these products is that they use a negative reward to change behavior instead of something positive. The other problem is that you may not be around to provide a positive reward such as a treat after the barking stops. A Citronella Dog Bark Collar uses a burst of air and scent every time the dog barks. This could be a quick fix to a Labrador barking problem. The advantage of a dog bark collar is that it will work even when you are not at home. Another advantage to a collar that uses air or a citronella burst is that the training cycle may go faster. Dogs that respond well result in an easy solution to the "how to stop dog barking" problem. We would not recommend a dog shock collar since this type of negative reward is un-necessary. We prefer trying the Cintronella approach first. Dog Head or Muzzle Collar A dog head collar such as this one from Halti , works by providing a gentle tightening around the muzzle when a dog barks. Use this type of collar in conjunction with a verbal command such as "enough. If you do we'll answer it for free. Just fill out the form below and ask. Please provide details such as age, sex, medical conditions, recent changes in behavior, or any changes in the family such as if you recently changed homes or routine. Dog Training and Behavior questions are answered on a first come, first served basis. This might take a little while. If you need an immediate response, we suggest trying this online veterinary service that has Vets standing by 24 hours a day. Upload Pictures or Graphics optional [? Click the button and find the first one on your computer. Select it and click on the button to choose it. Then click on the link if you want to upload up to 3 more images. Your Name.

Your new furry friend has a lot of growing to do, and you probably have a lot of questions. Your Golden Retriever puppy will go through a number of developmental stages throughout their first twelve weeks. Male Golden Retrievers generally weigh between 65 and 75 pounds and stand from 23 to 24 inches tall. Females are generally smaller weighing between 55 to 65 pounds, and will grow to stand .At 4 months, your Golden Retriever puppy will reach about half their adult height. When it comes to mental development, it can take even longer than that before the Golden Retriever is fully mature. However, every puppy is a unique individual, and these are merely milestone guidelines. Disparities exist between the working and show Goldens, as well as between males and females. Golden Retriever puppy growth can also be quite sporadic. As an overall average, many Golden Retriever puppies will weigh just approximately 1. Golden Retrievers are classified as a gundog breed, and these dogs are often divided into those bred for show and those meant for work. However, the body of the show Golden is typically larger, taller, heavy-boned, and fuller in the chest. Small Parents Like people, puppies inherit physical traits from their parents. And even puppies from the same litter can vary in size. Neither of these scenarios is healthy for a puppy. Larger breeds like the Golden Retriever are more at risk for growth disorders than small breed dogs. This article will give you a lot more information on how much to feed, what to feed, and how often to feed a Golden Retriever puppy. Illness and Puppy Growth If a puppy has been seriously ill for a prolonged period, it may affect their ability to grow normally. However, once the puppy is free of worms, they should continue to grow at a normal rate. The best way to determine if your puppy is too thin or too fat is by how he looks and feels. When looking at your puppy from above, he should have a noticeable waistline. Another way to tell is by putting your hands on either side of his ribcage. You should be able to feel his ribs using a gentle pressure. But if his ribs are visible, he could be underweight. Obesity is a huge problem for many dog breeds. Although there are ways to make your puppy grow bigger, this is not something you should attempt. It could also mean you end up with a fat puppy. One of the best ways to ensure your puppy has a long, healthy life is to ensure he stays at an optimal weight. Hip and elbow dysplasia and other musculoskeletal disorders are associated with excess weight in larger breeds. Having your dog neutered at a young age can also cause them to grow taller. The problem is, this can also cause abnormalities in joint formation. Neutering also makes Golden Retrievers more at risk for certain types of cancers. Typically it will take approximately 18 months for your Golden Retriever to become an adult dog. Even though they can reach their full height at anywhere from 9 to 12 months, it will usually take them longer to fill out to their full weight. Remember that there are wide variations in size within the Golden Retriever breed. If this is the case, you should contact your veterinarian to seek advice. Beginning the puppy development stages before birth Puppy development stages week by week Amazingly, in a way the puppy development stages begin before your dog is even born. Your puppy spends approximately 9 weeks developing inside his Mom. The mother dog has a womb or uterus, that has two long tubes, and the puppies grow in a row along each tube rather like peas in a pod. The puppies are joined to their mother by a placenta which provides all the nourishment they need for those few weeks. To begin with, the puppies have plenty of room to move but they grow fast and as the time for birth draws near they are packed in quite tightly. The one week old puppy Your puppy is born fully furred but with his eyes and ears closed so he cannot hear or see. His front feet are strong and he can pull himself towards his mother with them. He can cry if he is uncomfortable and his mother will respond to his cries by moving him towards her and licking him. Your puppy spends most of his time sleeping or suckling. He cannot regulate his own body temperature and needs his mother for heat, or an artificial heat source. In the first week to ten days of his life your puppy grows rapidly and will double his birth weight. His forelegs are getting much stronger. She licks the puppies bottoms to stimulate a bowel or bladder movement and eats the result. There is no cleaning up for the breeder to do yet. The breeder will begin to handle the puppies more though, and get them used to human contact. She will worm the puppies for the first time at the end of this week. Puppies begin to get their personalities. Your puppy can stand and sit up by the end of the week. Tails can be wagged, ears will be completely open and puppies start play growling and interacting with their littermates. Your puppy can regulate his body temperature more effectively and will start to cut his first teeth in preparation for weaning. The front teeth, canines and incisors are cut first. Toward the end of the week he may have his first tiny taste of puppy food. They also start to move away from the sleeping area to empty their bowels and bladder. They may try to climb out of the whelping box. If she lives indoors, she may rejoin the family for more of each day. Your puppy will cut his back teeth and the breeder will get weaning underway this week and by the end of it, your puppy will be getting quite a bit of his nourishment from puppy food. She will also worm the puppies a second time. If the mother is allowed near the puppies after she has been fed, she may regurgitate her dinner for them. This is completely natural and normal. He is a proper little dog. Rolling around with his brothers and sisters and playing with toys. Teething toys, puppy Kongs, balls and rope toys are big favorites with puppies. He can bark too and some puppies can be quite noisy at this age! He chases after his mother whenever she appears and suckles hungrily, but she is starting to get fed up with it, and may be reluctant to feed her brood for very long. His mother is teaching him not to bite too hard. If he lives in outdoor kennels he should spend part of each day indoors with the family. By the end of the sixth week, most are fully weaned, and eating five or six little meals of puppy food each day. Socialization must begin in earnest. He is now two months old and ready for his new life. It is the time during which they become fearful of anything unfamiliar and need to be thoroughly socialized. This is also the time during which most puppies get to grips with house-training, learning to wait before eliminating and start sleeping through the night without a potty break. It is a busy time for new puppy owners. Your puppy will have his vaccinations during this month. Biting can be a big problem during this stage and you need to be patient and consistent in order to teach the puppy not to hurt people when he plays. Provided you use force free methods, this is a great time to get puppy training under way, and especially to teach a puppy recall, and to get your puppy used to working with food. So, for a 2. You can do the same calculation for medium pups at sixteen weeks and large breed pups at 20 weeks — just divide his weight by his age in weeks before you multiply by .Medium to large pups will reach about half their adult height by the end of the month. If the weather is warm you can get your puppy swimming now. He should be able to come when he is called, in and around your home, provided there are not too many distractions. It all depends on what you have taught him. He may still be chewing a lot and biting too. Use frozen Kongs to help him and give your furniture and fingers a break. Puppies can go for short walks now. By the end of this month your puppy could have a twenty minute walk each day. He may also enjoy fetching a ball and playing with other dogs, but take care to stop before he gets very tired. Less dependence This is the month during which some puppies start to become less dependent on their humans for security. Keep your puppy close to you outdoors by changing direction frequently so that you puppy has to keep coming to find you. And engaging him in games. The foundations of a great recall are often build or spoilt during this month. If your puppy knows how to sit or lie down at home, start some simple proofing exercises with him in public places. A healthy puppy can usually manage on two meals a day from around six months. During this month a Retriever, Spaniel or GSD puppy will reach around two thirds of his adult weight. A Great Dane and other large breeds will have reached about half their final weight and little dogs will have almost completed their growth. Some female dogs will come on heat for the first time during this month, or the next, so keep an eye open now for swelling of her vulva and any discharge. Your dog will become increasingly confident over the next few months so practice, practice and practice that recall! Make it a habit he cannot break. And be generous with your rewards. Small breed pups may now be more or less mature. Your puppy will enjoy half hour off lead walks now, and should be able to walk on a loose lead for short periods with plenty of encouragement and rewards. Keep practicing that recall! These help to slow his growth further and to build his confidence. Make sure you practice good outdoor management on walks to maintain the good recall you have built and work hard on thoroughly proofing all his obedience skills. Read up on neutering before you take this important step, for dogs of either sex. Once your dog is a year old he can participate in more strenuous activities and sports. Now is the time to think about the kinds of activities you would like to do with him — go jogging together for example — and if necessary, to start to get him fit. Puppy development stages — Summary There is huge variation in the way in which dogs develop and mature. The puppy development stages and ages outlined above are a rough guide. We hope you enjoyed them and found the information interesting. When it comes to training, you get out what you put in. Your progress depends as much if not more on you rather than your puppy. If you train your puppy five times a day, six days a week he will learn many, many times faster than a puppy that is trained once a day at the weekend. Enjoy watching your puppy grow and develop. And have fun! We may earn money or products from the companies mentioned in this post. This was the first time we had a chance to chart puppies from birth until 8 weeks old. We tried to take as many pictures as possible so we could have a journal of our Golden Retriever puppy growth week by week. When raising guide and service dog puppies we usually bring home our puppies at around weeks old. On occasion we are allowed to see puppies before 8 weeks of age, but they need to stay with their mother and siblings during those important early weeks to get milk and antibodies from mama and learn how to interact properly with siblings, learning important behaviors like bite inhibition. During our days as a foster we raised two litters of puppies , but both were already weeks old by the time we got them home. We actually own the Puppy Culture DVD and Workbook which includes charts, lists, worksheets and other great information for raising your litter. Keep your eyes and ears open and absorb it all like a sponge! Birth To 1 Week Old Guess what? This was the first litter we ever whelped!? We got a lot of advise, but we were largely on our own. Large Puppy Dish — great for feeding the puppies when they moved to solid food. Whelping Mats — we ordered 2 of these mats and washed them several times a day. Whelping Box — We have a homemade whelping box built by my father-in-law, but if we continue raising litters I plan on purchasing an EZWhelp Whelping Box. Our homemade box lasted three litters. We ended up purchasing the Magnabox which was hellu expensive but if you plan on raising multiple litters we highly recommend it. We recently put together a whelping checklist with all the supplies we gathered together to help out with our second litter of Golden Retriever puppies. Check out our whelping supplies checklist here. However, none were overly huge and none were extra small. No runts and no beasts. It was my understanding that when the cord was chewed down to the base of the belly it was sometimes difficult to get it to stop bleeding. I took the hemostat and pinched the umbilical cord about 2 inches from the base of the pups belly then cut the cord rather than let Raven chew it off. I kept the hemostat on the cord for about 2 minutes to let it clout. The umbilical cord dries up quickly and then within a day or 2 it falls off. Raven was a good mama and took care of her poops. Puppy eyes and ears are closed at this stage and puppies army crawl around the whelping box looking for a teat to suckle. We did everything we could to make sure our pups stayed warm by adding a watt heat lamp to the whelping box and portable heating unit in the puppy room. As I mentioned Raven stayed in the whelping box most of week 1 and of course… the puppy piles! One thing I learned is if I had a puppy on my lap then do not let Raven lick those areas or be prepared for a little accident on your lap. While caring for Raven and her litter Raven was really blowing out her coat that first week, but as time went on it slowed down. I heard from other friends this is common and that Raven blew out her coat much less than other mama dogs. We got Probiotics for Raven before her first litter, but forgot to order them for her second litter. After an upset stomach for the first week or so we realized our mistake, got Probiotics, and no more upset tummy. Week 2 — Pups eyes are opening starting to waddle. Week 3 — First bark! Week 7 — The great puppy escape artists! Week 8 — Our golden puppies head to their new homes. Have you ever had a litter of Golden Retriever puppies? Tell us about your experiences with puppies in the comment section below. Are you about to raise a litter of puppies? Not raising a litter, but getting ready to bring home your first Golden Retriever puppy? Puppies for Dummies will give you the basics on how to raise and train your new puppy. Helps ease anxiety in their new home. We love using Bully Sticks to help divert these unwanted behaviors. Check out more of our favorites on our New Puppy Checklist. Colby Colby Morita has been raising and training guide and service dog puppies for over 13 years. Colby has been writing to the PuppyInTraining. Brown 3 lb 13 oz Our chunky Tank got passed up by Patriot and Spirit! Meanwhile, Trooper dropped to the back of the pack. All pups were gaining weight every day which was a good sign. I forgot to mention that before Raven had her puppies we looked for a small scale to weigh the puppies. Most of the scales we came across had a 10 lb limit. We purchased this baby scale and it worked great with all our puppies. I started clipping nails once a week with regular human nail clippers. When cutting nails I only cut to the part where the nail starts to curve. The puppies all did well during nail trimming sessions and it also gave me a chance to handle all four paws getting the pups used to relaxing with humans. Day 26 — Walking On New Surfaces Now that the puppies were stable and walking more normal I started introducing them to new surfaces. We were able to get them out on the dirt, grass, and concrete in the backyard. Golden Pups Week 4 — Puppies exploring new surfaces. We also start introducing our pups to the crate and start working on teaching them calm behavior while in the crate. I took their regular puppy kibble, soaked it in hot water for 10 minutes, and smashed it up into a mush. One of the early problems is making sure everyone gets an equal or close to amount of food. We allowed the puppies to eat their solid food and still nurse throughout the day. We feed the older dogs Wellness Core Grain Free Original Formula so we figured the transition from the puppy formula to the original formula would be easier on the pups when the time came to move away from puppy food. Golden Retriever pups week 4 is in the books! Check out our other Golden Retriever puppy growth week by week blog posts: Week 1 — Six Golden Retriever puppies are born! Week 2 — Pups eyes are opening starting to waddle. Week 3 — First bark! Week 7 — The great puppy escape artists! Week 8 — Our golden puppies head to their new homes. So tell us a little about your experiences. Have you ever had the chance to raise a litter or meet a 4 week old puppy? Tell us about your experiences in the comment section below. Are you expecting a litter of Golden Retriever puppies? Did you just bring home an adorable 8-week-old Golden Retriever puppy? If so, Puppies for Dummies is a great book that will give you the basics on how to raise and train your new puppy. Helps ease anxiety in their new home. We love using Bully Sticks to help divert these unwanted behaviors. Check out more of our favorites on our New Puppy Checklist. Colby Colby Morita has been raising and training guide and service dog puppies for over 13 years. Colby has been writing to the PuppyInTraining. Personalities are starting to emerge. Four week old puppies are ready to venture out of their pen and explore our home. They are old enough for a brief introduction to outside. By four weeks, puppies are beginning to stay awake for longer periods of time and are actively engaging in play. We keep the area outside the pans almost perfectly clean. We gradually decrease the amount of area that is covered by pads as puppies show increasing dependability with doing all their business in the pans. By the time puppies are 4 weeks 5 days, almost all of them are close to doing all their business in the right place. At 3 weeks, puppies have teeth which makes the nursing experience less pleasant for the moms. By four weeks, it can be rather painful for large litters to be biting and pulling as they nurse. Almost all moms will begin pulling away somewhat from the litter between four and five weeks. We offer soaked dog food three times a day. The puppies are fed in one large bowl all together at this age. They eat as much as they want and the mama will finish off the bowl. Introduced to the World Outside Their Pen Starting shortly after 4 weeks, puppies are introduced to the world outside of their pen. We take them initially in groups to various rooms in our home. As confidence builds, we take them out individually. Puppy socialization becomes increasingly important. Puppies are staying awake for longer periods of time. This is the week that our socialization program becomes very intentional and scheduled. Four-week old pictures are usually taken in our front yard. This is their first trip outside. By the time puppies are 4 weeks 5 days, they are ready to be trained to navigate the two steps from our puppy play yard to our side porch. Puppies are ready to begin doggy door training. This is the optimum time to introduce puppies to new things. They are anxious to try new things and to explore their world. For more information on how we raise our puppies, see our Raising Puppies page. Primary Sidebar Breeders and Trainers of English Golden Retrievers We focus on breeding and training beautiful English Golden Retriever puppies with health tested champion parents, great pedigrees, and fantastic temperaments.

As a medium to large-sized dog breed, Boxers need more time to fill out and reach their full size than smaller dog breeds. As a general rule, expect your Boxer to grow until they are 18 to 24 months old. Keep in mind that this range is an estimate, so there are always exceptions. Image Source: Canva How big should a 6-month-old Boxer be? A 6-month-old male Boxer should weigh around 41 to 48 pounds, while a 6-month-old female Boxer will weigh about 39 to 44 pounds. According to Care. For a male Boxer puppy, this would be around 17 to 19 inches tall. Pro Tip: Check out this downloadable new puppy checklist covering topics like vaccination schedules, setting up the home for a new puppy, teething, veterinary visits, and more! How much bigger will my Boxer get? There are several ways to estimate how much bigger your Boxer will grow. If your Boxer is less than two years old, they are likely still growing. Some Boxers stop growing closer to 18 months, but many Boxers will continue to fill out in weight and body size until they are two years old. A puppy will rarely be larger than either parent, so this can give you a clearer idea of their maximum size. Do their paws look oversized compared to their legs and the rest of their body? This is a strong sign that your Boxer is still growing and filling out! What is the size of a full-grown Boxer? According to the American Kennel Club Official Boxer Standards , a full-grown male Boxer will stand around 23 to 25 inches tall, while a female Boxer will stand about .A fully grown male Boxer will weigh around 60 to 70 pounds, with their female counterpart will weigh about 55 to 65 pounds. As with many things, prevention is always better than treatment. Taking your Boxer to regular veterinary appointments is one of the best things you can do for their health, along with consistent love and care at home. One of the best things you can do at home is brush your dog's teeth regularly to help prevent painful periodontal disease and avoid pricey dental treatments in the future. Periodontal disease can cause bad breath and oral pain for your pup and may require your Boxer to have a dental cleaning or tooth extractions under anesthesia at some point in their lives if not attended to at home. Keeping your Boxer at a healthy weight is crucial for their longevity, overall health, and happiness. If your Boxer is overweight, talk to your veterinarian to develop a weight loss strategy so that you can get them back on track. Consult with your veterinarian about the ideal food and exercise for your Boxer. Like all dogs, Boxers have certain conditions that they are prone to. Boxers are a purebred dog breed prone to heart problems, like cardiomyopathy, heart valve narrowing, and congenital heart defects. Brachycephalic syndrome increases their risk of respiratory distress, allergies, heatstroke, and sinus problems. Regular veterinarian appointments are crucial in finding and treating illness early to give your Boxer the healthiest and longest life possible. Unfortunately, veterinary bills can be costly with many treatments for emergencies and illnesses, such as heart problems, being thousands of dollars to treat. When surveyed, .The financial safety net provided by pet insurance is why pet insurance is worth it for many pet parents. Keep in mind that even healthy behaviors, like exercise, can be overdone. Consult with your veterinarian about how much exercise is prudent. Medium to large-sized dogs that are still growing may suffer from joint damage if they are overexercised. Make a plan with your veterinarian today to provide your Boxer with the ideal amount of exercise to keep them lean, healthy, and happy. Boxer puppies grow into strong and sturdy adults that make fun-loving, often silly companions, and fierce protectors. Do you want to find the best pet insurance? Let's analyze your pet's breed, age, and location to find the right coverage and the best savings. Analyze My Pet About Pawlicy Advisor The pet insurance marketplace endorsed by veterinarians, at Pawlicy Advisor we make buying the best pet insurance easier. Although a playful pup sounds endearing, consider how many games of fetch or tag you want to play each day, and whether you have kids or other dogs who can stand in as playmates for the dog. Click here for more information on this characteristic Boxer Overview Boxers, large, muscular, square-headed dogs, appear imposing until their mischievous and joyful eyes reveal their true nature. Boxers reach full maturity at three years, boasting intelligence, alertness, and fearlessness, while remaining friendly. Their loyalty to the family is remarkable, though they can be headstrong when faced with harsh training. With minimal grooming needs, Boxers make excellent family companions, as long as they receive ample physical exercise and mental stimulation. Their origin traces back to Germany, and their short, shiny coats are usually fawn or brindle with white markings. Docked tails and cropped ears are common, but many owners now prefer leaving them natural. Boxers are renowned for their love and loyalty, often trying to be lapdogs. Their strength and courage make them suitable for military, police, and search-and-rescue work. Proper care includes indoor living due to their sensitivity to extreme temperatures. Boxer Highlights Here are some of the highlights of the Boxer breed: Affectionate: Boxers are very affectionate dogs and love to be around their people. They are known for their wagging tails and slobbery kisses. Playful: Boxers are also very playful dogs and love to have fun. They are always up for a game of fetch or a good belly rub. Intelligent: Boxers are very intelligent dogs and can be easily trained. They are often used as working dogs, such as therapy dogs and search and rescue dogs. Trainable: Boxers are also very trainable dogs and can be taught a variety of tricks. They are eager to please their owners and love to learn new things. Loyal: Boxers are very loyal dogs and will always protect their family. They are known for their bravery and willingness to stand up to danger. The Bullenbeisser was used as a hunting dog for centuries to hunt bear, wild boar, and deer, tasked with catching and holding the prey until hunters arrived. Over time, Bullenbeissers lost their jobs on estates and began to be used by farmers and butchers to guard and drive cattle. The Boxer we know today was developed in the late 19th century when a Munich man named Georg Alt bred a brindle-colored female Bullenbeisser named Flora with a local dog of unknown origin. Schecken was then bred to an English Bulldog named Tom to produce a dog named Flocki, who became the first Boxer to be entered in the German Stud Book after winning at a Munich show that had a special event for Boxers. One of her pups was a white female named Meta von der Passage, considered to be the mother of the Boxer breed, even though photographs of her show that she bore little resemblance to the modern Boxer. Our great line of sires all trace directly back to this female. She was a substantially built, low to the ground, brindle and white parti-color, lacking in underjaw and exceedingly lippy. As a producing bitch few in any breed can match her record. She consistently whelped puppies of marvelous type and rare quality. Those of her offspring sired by Flock St. Salvator and Wotan dominate all present-day. The breed became known in other parts of Europe in the late s. Around , the first Boxers were imported into the U. Lehman of New York. When Word War I broke out, Boxers were enlisted into the military, serving as messenger dogs, carrying packs and acting as attack and guard dogs. Boxers started becoming popular in the U. Through them, the breed was introduced to more people and soon became a favorite companion animal, show dog, and guard dog. In the early days, there was a lot of controversy within the club about the Boxer standard. In , the club finally approved a new standard. The latest revisions of the standard were in .Today, the Boxer ranks 7th among the breeds and varieties registered by the AKC. Boxer Size The height at the shoulder for males usually ranges from .Females typically stand 21 to .Strangers are met with wariness, but they respond politely to friendly people. They display aggression only in defense of their family and home. Temperament is influenced by factors like heredity, training , and socialization. Boxer puppies with good temperaments are curious, playful, and open to approaching and being held by people. Socialization, early exposure to diverse experiences, people, and places, is crucial to ensure they grow up as well-rounded, friendly dogs. Enrolling them in puppy kindergarten classes and regular interactions with visitors, neighbors, and various environments help develop their social skills. Boxer Health Boxers are generally a healthy breed, but like all dogs, they have certain health conditions to be aware of. Here are some conditions to watch out for, along with precautions: Cancer : Boxers are prone to mast cell tumors, lymphoma, and brain tumors. White Boxers with excessive white markings can get sunburned and may develop skin cancer. Apply sunscreen to their ears, nose, and coat when they go outdoors. This condition can lead to fainting and sudden death. A veterinary cardiologist can diagnose it after detecting a heart murmur. Affected dogs should not be bred. Boxer cardiomyopathy BCM : An inherited condition causing an irregular heartbeat due to an electrical conduction disorder. It can result in weakness, collapse, or sudden death. Detection is challenging, leading to unexpected fatalities. Dogs showing signs of this condition should not be bred. While some dogs show signs of pain and lameness, others may not exhibit discomfort. X-ray screening helps detect hip dysplasia, and affected dogs should not be bred. Hypothyroidism : Caused by a deficiency of thyroid hormone, leading to infertility, obesity, mental dullness, and lack of energy. It can be managed with daily thyroid replacement pills. Corneal Dystrophy : Non-inflammatory eye diseases inherited in Boxers, affecting one or more corneal layers, causing opaque areas in the eyes. A weakened immune system can lead to demodectic mange, resulting in localized or generalized skin issues. Gastric dilatation-volvulus GDV , also called Bloat or Torsion : A life-threatening condition more common in deep-chested dogs like Boxers. Feeding habits and exercise patterns can contribute to GDV. Immediate medical attention is crucial. Allergies : Boxers are prone to both environmental and food-related allergies. Itchy, scaly skin should be examined by a vet. Responsible breeding is essential to reduce the risk of deafness. Boxer Care Boxers are indoor dogs due to their short noses and coats, making them unsuitable for outdoor living. However, they enjoy playing in a fenced yard. Engage them in play or walk them twice daily for at least half an hour to keep their muscles toned and their energy satisfied. Activities like fetch, long walks, or dog sports like agility and flyball are great options. Adequate exercise ensures good behavior—a tired Boxer is a well-behaved Boxer. Training is crucial for Boxers, as their size and strength can inadvertently harm people. Their temperament, being happy and excitable, requires early and consistent training using firm, fair methods with positive reinforcement through praise, play, and food rewards. Be consistent to avoid pushing boundaries. Settle them down before training class with a walk or play session for better focus. Housetraining requires patience; some Boxers are trained by four months, while others take longer. Regular potty breaks and praising them outdoors are essential. Crate training is recommended for their successful training. Boxer Feeding For an ideal Boxer diet , choose high-quality food suited for medium-sized breeds with high energy. Optimize their chances for a long, healthy life by providing proper nutrition. To prevent weight gain, adhere to a regular feeding schedule with two meals per day. Limit treats and avoid leaving food out all day. Consult your vet for personalized recommendations based on factors like weight, energy levels, and overall health. Boxer Coat Color And Grooming Boxers boast a sleek, short coat with tight skin, accentuating their athletic bodies. They come in fawn or brindle colors, occasionally with white markings. Fawn ranges from light tan to mahogany, while brindle displays striking black stripes on a fawn background. White markings should not cover more than one-third of the coat, and excessive white is discouraged due to potential health issues like skin cancer and deafness. They lack the gene for a solid black coat, so black Boxers are not seen. Bathing should be done as needed. Maintaining dental hygiene and nail care are essential. Regularly brushing their teeth prevents periodontal disease, and trimming nails every few weeks keeps their feet in good condition. Starting grooming routines early in puppyhood helps them become accustomed to the process, ensuring positive veterinary exams and handling as adults. Regular grooming also provides an opportunity to check for any potential health issues, such as sores, rashes, or signs of infection, promoting early detection and care. Boxer Children And Other Pets Boxers are fond of kids and make excellent playmates for active older children. However, their rambunctious nature may be too much for toddlers, possibly causing accidental knocks during play. Never leave a dog unsupervised with a child. With proper socialization, Boxers can also get along well with other dogs and cats, particularly if raised together. Boxer Rescue Groups Boxers are often purchased without any clear understanding of what goes into owning one. There are many Boxers in need of adoption and or fostering. There are a number of rescues that we have not listed. Many can be found with a quick internet search. But at the moment, they need your guidance. For now, this includes sleeping next to you for the first few weeks, maybe even longer. Just have their crate or bed close to wherever you sleep. Our articles on sleeping through the night and establishing a nighttime routine will give you extra tips on getting through this phase. A puzzle toy or Kong will work great at making them feel like you leaving them is actually something quite fun. Potty training All new puppy parents expect potty training to be on the cards. It will help to remember your Boxer pup is a bit of a goofball. For now, we definitely want to let your pup get used to you and settle into their new home. Teach your puppy about surfaces — Different surfaces can feel strange to pups. Use surfaces like grass, moss, paving and sand. Basically, make their tail wag and we bet yours will too. Teach your Boxer their name. Teach your Boxer puppy to sit. Remember what we said about Boxers and their jumping? Recall — Trust us. Preventing resource guarding Resource guarding is where your dog fiercely protects something they have and will do everything they can to keep hold of it. Dogs can resource guard food, a toy, even a person. You can do this by teaching them that hands and touch can be a good thing. As always, back up your soft touches with some treats. Remember that consent is also a thing with dogs! Never force your Boxer to be handled or pick them up against their wishes. Socialization exercises to do this week Training to do this week Husbandry Tasks to do this week — Fireworks — Watch the world go by outside your house — Play dress up. Further information: Bullenbeisser Friedrich Robert and his boxer, The Boxer is a hunting mastiff developed in Germany in the late 19th century from the now extinct Bullenbeisser , a dog of English Mastiff descent, and Bulldogs brought in from Great Britain. Its task was to seize the prey and hold it until the hunters arrived. In later years, faster dogs were favored and a smaller Bullenbeisser was bred in Brabant , in northern Belgium. The Brabanter Bullenbeisser is generally accepted as being a direct ancestor of today's Boxer. The club went on to publish the first Boxer breed standard in , a detailed document that has not been changed much since. During World War I , the Boxer was co-opted for military work, acting as a valuable messenger dog, pack carrier, attack dog , and guard dog. Taken home by returning soldiers, the dog was introduced to a wider audience and soon became a favorite as a companion, a show dog, and a guard dog. Boxer early genealogy chart Flocki, the first Boxer German citizen George Alt, a Munich resident, mated a brindle-colored female dog imported from France named Flora with a local dog of unknown ancestry, known simply as "Boxer", resulting in a fawn-and-white male, named Lechner's Box after its owner. This dog was mated with his own dam, Flora, and one of his offspring was a female called Alt's Schecken. George Alt mated Schecken with a Bulldog named Dr. Flocki was the first Boxer to enter the German Stud Book after winning the aforementioned show for St. Bernards in Munich , which was the first event to have a class specific for Boxers. Blanka von Angertor, Flocki's sister, was even more influential when mated with Piccolo von Angertor Lechner's Box grandson to produce the predominantly white particolored female dog Meta von der Passage, which, even bearing little resemblance with the modern Boxer standard early photographs depict her as too long, weak-backed, and down-faced , is considered the mother of the breed. Our great line of sires all trace directly back to this female. She was a substantially built, low to the ground, brindle and white particolor, lacking in underjaw and exceedingly lippy. As a producing female, few in any breed can match her record. She consistently whelped puppies of marvelous type and rare quality. Those of her offspring sired by Flock St. Salvator and Wotan dominate all present-day pedigrees. Combined with Wotan and Mirzl children, they made the Boxer. Breed name[ edit ] The name "Boxer" is supposedly derived from the breed's tendency to play by standing on its hind legs and " boxing " with its front paws. Brace's Pet Owner's Guide to the Boxer, this theory is the least plausible explanation. At that time, the spelling "baxer" equalled "boxer". Both the verb boxen [English "to box, to punch, to jab"] and the noun Boxer were common German words as early as the late 18th century. The term Boxl, also written Buxn or Buchsen in the Bavarian dialect, means "short leather trousers" or "underwear". The very similar-sounding term Boxerl, also from the Bavarian dialect, is an endearing term for Boxer. These dogs were the result from mixes of Bullenbeisser and other similar breeds. Bier beer probably refers to the Biergarten, the typical Munich beer garden, an open-air restaurant where people used to take their dogs along. The nickname "Deutscher Boxer" was derived from Bierboxer and Boxer could also be a corruption of the former or a contraction of the latter. This seems improbable. Any such action would likely result in a badly bitten if not broken leg. On the other hand, a German breeder of 40 years' experience states positively that the Boxer does not use his feet, except to try to extinguish a small flame such as a burning match. But a Boxer does box with his head. He will hit not bite a cat with his muzzle hard enough to knock it out and he will box a ball with his nose. Or perhaps, since the German dictionary translates Boxer as "prize-fighter", the name was bestowed in appreciation of the fighting qualities of the breed rather than its technique. Boxer is also the name of a dog owned by John Peerybingle, the main character in the best-selling book The Cricket on the Hearth by Charles Dickens , which is evidence that "Boxer" was commonly used as a dog name by the early 19th century, before the establishment of the breed by the end of that same century. A brindle Boxer with two white socks Brindle, fawn, and white Boxer puppies See also: Dog health A healthy Boxer puppy Leading health issues to which Boxers are prone include cancers , heart conditions such as aortic stenosis and arrhythmogenic right ventricular cardiomyopathy the so-called " Boxer cardiomyopathy " , [35] hypothyroidism , hip dysplasia , and degenerative myelopathy and epilepsy; other conditions that may be seen are gastric dilatation volvulus also known as bloat , intestinal problems, and allergies although these may be more related to diet than breed. An emerging health concern among boxers is Boxer Juvenile Kidney Disease JKD , where the kidneys do not develop normally during gestation and leads to chronic renal failure. There is strong evidence to suggest JKD is an inherited condition in boxers with research being undertaken by the University of Ohio to determine the gene mutation, as well as other work separately by the UK Boxer Breeder Council. Mortality due to infection increases significantly with increases in inbreeding. The breed is particularly predisposed to mast cell tumours, a cancer of the immune system. Because of their brachycephalic heads, they do not do well with high heat or humidity, and common sense should prevail when exercising a Boxer in these conditions. See also: Dog food Boxers need plenty of exercise, which means their diet should be high in quality calories. The main source of these calories should be lean animal protein, which include lean chicken, turkey, lamb, and fish. They sometimes appear at dog agility or dog obedience trials and flyball events. These strong and intelligent animals have also been used as service dogs, guide dogs for the blind, therapy dogs, police dogs in K9 units, and occasionally herding cattle or sheep. The versatility of Boxers was recognized early on by the military, which has used them as valuable messenger dogs, pack carriers, and attack and guard dogs in times of war. Notable Boxers[ edit ] Punch and Judy were awarded the Dickin Medal for conspicuous gallantry or devotion to duty while serving in a military conflict. Vocality level 3 in 5 Disclaimer: While the characteristics mentioned here may frequently represent this breed, dogs are individuals whose personalities and appearances will vary. Please consult the adoption organization for details on a specific pet. Temperament The Boxer is playful, exuberant, inquisitive, attentive, demonstrative, devoted, and outgoing; this dog is a perfect companion for an active family. Boxers can be stubborn, but are sensitive and responsive to commands. They may be assertive toward strange dogs, but are generally good with other family dogs and pets. Upkeep The Boxer needs daily mental and physical exertion. They likes to run, but their exercise needs can also be met with a good jog or long walk on leash. They do not do well in hot weather. Some snore. The coat needs only occasional brushing to remove dead hair. Health Major concerns: boxer cardiomyopathy, SAS, CHD Minor concerns: gastric torsion, hypothyroidism, corneal erosion, colitis Occasionally seen: brain tumors, degenerative myelopathy Suggested tests: thyroid, hip, cardiac Holter monitoring Life span: 8—10 years Note: Sensitive to heat. White boxers may be deaf. The drug acepromazine can cause severe reactions. History The Boxer derives from two central European breeds of dog that no longer exist: the larger Danziger Bullenbeiser and smaller Brabenter Bullenbeiser. Bullenbeiser means bull-biter, and these dogs were used to chase large game through the forest. This required a strong but agile dog with a broad powerful jaw and a recessed nose. In England, the Bulldog was the favored breed for the sport, whereas in Germany large mastiff-type dogs were used. Around the s, German hunters began a concerted effort to create a new breed, crossing their Bullenbeisers with mastiff-type dogs for size, terriers for tenacity, and, finally, Bulldogs. The result was a tough agile dog with a streamlined body and strong grip. By , an entirely new breed, the Boxer, had been established. Although the exact origin of the name Boxer is obscure, it may have been derived from the German Boxl. The Boxer was one of the first breeds to be employed as a police and military dog in Germany. By , the breed had become established as a general utility dog, family pet, and even show dog. The AKC recognized the breed soon after, but only in the s did the breed begin its steady rise to the top of the popularity charts, eventually peaking as the fourth most popular breed in America. Related Content. Life Span Did You Know? The Boxer is one of the most popular dog breeds in the United States. It has been recognized by the AKC since .Although the Boxer dog breed originated in Germany, their ancient ancestry can be traced back to the Assyrian empire war dogs of BC. The modern Boxer breed we know and love today was originally developed in Germany in the late s. English-bred Bulldogs and the Bullenbesiier were crossed to create an energetic and agile hunting dog to chase wild game. The Boxer is a popular family companion and a versatile working dog. As a member of the Working Group, Boxers can be found competing in dog sports like agility, obedience, and herding. They also make great service and assistance dogs, as well as therapy dogs, and can be found working as search and rescue dogs, drug detection dogs, police dogs, and military dogs. The Boxer is a muscular and energetic dog that tends to have a happy, friendly disposition. They bond closely with their families and tend to get along well with children and other dogs. They can even do well with other pets despite their high prey drive if they are socialized and trained with them. As long as they are well-socialized, Boxers are generally upbeat, playful, and friendly. Although they have a natural instinct to protect their family from unwanted visitors, they do tend to warm up once introduced and are happy to make a new friend. They can be prone to barking a lot if you do not work on socialization and training your dog to stop barking early on. Boxers can be highly adaptable dogs. Although they have a lot of energy and are better suited to homes with yards where they can run, they can adapt to apartment living as long as they get the daily exercise, attention, and mental stimulation they need. As with any non-arctic dog breed, they are sensitive to very cold temperatures. Boxers are also a brachycephalic breed, which means they are even more sensitive to heat than other dogs. A Boxer is also one of the most affectionate dog breeds. Because they bond so closely with their families and get bored easily, they should not be left alone for long periods of time. Potential health conditions to be aware of in a Boxer include hip dysplasia, degenerative myelopathy, thyroid issues , and heart conditions like aortic stenosis and cardiomyopathy. Good breeding practices make a big difference and reputable breeders will screen their dogs to avoid passing preventable issues to puppies. So, make sure you are asking the breeder about the health and genetic history of the parents and about any health tests that have been done. Boxers are intelligent dogs that are eager to please their owners. Despite their energetic personality, they are one of the best dog breeds for first-time owners and are highly trainable dogs. They tend to excel at almost any task put before them! Because of their open, friendly nature and high energy, they have a tendency to jump up at people in excitement and playfulness. Since they grow into powerful dogs, you will want to make sure you train your dog not to jump up. Boxers have smooth and short coats that will shed a little year-round and require minimal grooming. A brush-down once or twice a week and the occasional bath as needed will keep their short coat healthy and looking great. Nail trims once or twice a month are usually enough to keep nails from growing too long. Checking ears weekly and carefully cleaning as needed can help prevent ear infections. Checking and wiping their facial wrinkles weekly or a few times a week if your dog is prone to getting into things can help keep their wrinkles clean and free of irritation. Dental diseases, like gum disease, are the most common health issues in older dogs because dental care is often overlooked; and, it can lead to other serious health issues. Brushing daily, plus cleanings at the vet when needed, is ideal. The Boxer is a high-energy dog breed that needs plenty of daily exercise to stay happy and healthy. Due to their high prey drive and urge to chase, they should only be let off-leash in secure areas. Boxers tend to get bored with repetition, are excellent problem solvers, and are naturally exuberant. A fully-grown Boxer usually stands inches tall at the shoulder and weighs pounds. Boxers generally live years on average. In Germany, the Boxer was one of the first dog breeds chosen for police training. Featured Boxer Article.

I am about 2 years old and I love follow my foster mum around. She tells me I am her shadow. My foster potty trained me in a day and she said I am very very smart and I have to agree with that. I also learned new commands like sit, down, and off. We are working on the stay but I have a hard time sitting still because I have lots to keep an eye on inside. She walks me always on her right side and I became very well behaved in our leash walking training. I do like to be right by my foster brother Logan, so sometimes I will pull to be with him. I have an another foster brother and he is smaller and furry and he meows for food all the time when he is not sleeping. I love him and he give me sand kisses. We went to a coffee shop other day and all these people want to pet me and take pics of me. I felt like a movie star! On the walks I get overly excited when I see other dogs and I am very vocal about it. Sometimes the dogs get scared of me, but I assure you, I am awesome and not aggressive at all. I just want to say hi to ALL the dogs! But I warm up to everyone very quickly. I am getting a lot of love and attention right now and it will be ideal for me to not be left alone for too long. Vocality level 3 in 5 Disclaimer: While the characteristics mentioned here may frequently represent this breed, dogs are individuals whose personalities and appearances will vary. Please consult the adoption organization for details on a specific pet. They are generally very friendly and are an ideal best friend. Labradoodles are very playful and have a high energy level. Long walks, hiking or jogging will definitely be a part of your future life as dog-parent to a Labradoodle. These dogs tend to do well with children in the home, but sometimes are better suited for older kids since they could knock smaller family members over with their size and exuberance. Are you looking for a dog park buddy? The Labradoodle could be the perfect match for you! They usually like to play with other dogs, so a good romp with some canine friends is ideal for them, with proper oversight and introductions. They would be a good choice if you have other pets in the home, given their general good nature. Still, cautious introductions of new pets are always a must! Labradoodles usually want to please their parents, so can be easily trained with positive methods. Upkeep Labradoodles have a lot of energy to burn! You should expect to dedicate at least minutes per day to giving your Labradoodle an outlet for their energy, whether in the form of a structured walk, playing in the yard with them, training, or a trip to the dog park to socialize. Their enthusiasm could easily turn to destructive behavior if not given this outlet. They would do best in a home with a fenced yard, so this energetic dog may not be the best option if you have a low-energy apartment life. Grooming needs will vary, depending on whether your Labradoodle inherits smoother or curlier fur from the Labrador and Poodle breeds. You can expect to devote some time each week to regular brushing and bathing, but some may require a trip to a professional groomer every weeks. What people love most are their incredibly cute looks and dazzling personality. They are like big cuddly teddy bears with their wavy soft fur, big round brown eyes and dark noses. As soon as you see one you will want to cuddle. These dogs are huge love bugs and will certainly want to cuddle with you too! These days everyone seems to want a Labradoodle! Lots of people are now breeding Labradoodles because of a huge demand. However, not all breeders are trustworthy. Reputable breeders will know how to breed a healthy puppy. They will also adhere to the standards set by the Australian Labradoodle Club of America. For first time owners Labradoodles are one of the best breeds because of how obedient and smart they are. Because they are a combination of a Labrador and a Poodle they can be easily trained. They also make great family dogs because of their gentleness with children. However, these dogs are not meant for everyone. They need someone who can be dedicated to them and can take them out on long walks and exciting adventures. Unfortunately this means some Labradoodles end up in shelters. Other times Labradoodles might grow larger than some people were expecting. By adopting a Labradoodle you are decreasing the demand on breeders and giving a dog a loving home. To help you on your journey we have put together a list of all the Labradoodle rescue shelters in the US. Just choose your state in the tool below and easily find Labradoodles for adoption near you. Labradoodle Rescue By State. Now, you may notice my smolder, muscles, and soft, sleek fur.I've got a great personality, too! I am hoping I can be the apple of your eye and your loyal companion, for forever. I love all things active and fun! What can I say, I'm just a fun guy fungi? And will put a smile on your face with my goofy and adorable personality! Ropes and ball toys are my favorites. I am living in a foster home with a volunteer Certified Dog Trainer who is working to help me be the bestest mannered boy I can be. Now, I am receiving training and learning signals and cues that will help me live life to the fullest. I am very much enjoying pleasing my friends here at the shelter with how intelligent I am and how quick I am picking things up! My foster momma and I are very in sync when walking around now! Plus, the "down stay" where I pick up on a cue given and will lay down and stay even if you are walking away until it's time for "out of site recall" where once you're out of site, I will make sure to follow! I have learned "place," too! As a young doggo, I have spent most of my life in the shelter. If you adopt, please commit forever to me. If you think you can give me the love, care and companionship I dream of, set up a time to meet me! Oakley thrives when he understands exactly what is expected of him.

Links German Shepherd Dogs vom Pegasus is the natural result of our involvement with - and admiration of - this incredibly versatile breed. Years of studying the German Shepherd bloodlines, both in Europe and the United States, have led us to an understanding of how to breed the best dogs. Our imports are from Europe and come in all ages and training levels. Our dogs are of high intelligence, beautiful, strong, healthy, with great temperament form parents with incredible personalities. Our research and planning has already resulted in litters with a high percentage of outstanding pups. If you love this breed like we do, we invite you to spend some time reading about our breeding program, looking at the promising dogs we are offering and the information we provide. As part of Metropolitan Executive Dogs, vom Pegasus German Shepherd also provides education with fast and durable results for your four-legged friends. We offer the highest level of various training programs. Our outstanding knowledge will become your expertise. Our goal is to keep on building the positive relationship between you and your dog and to give you guidance all the way. This breed is so loyal and reliable that they are great lifelong companions. They are also the go-to dogs when looking for working breeds. Opening your home to this beautiful breed is one of the best decisions you can ever make. You can settle this balance upon puppy pick-up. Aside from bringing home a beautiful German Shepherd pup, you also get a prepaid AKC full registration privilege. You can be confident that your new family member is in its healthiest state. The pups receive their age-appropriate deworming and vaccines here. Sure, they breed their German Shepherds to be working dogs and even service animals, but more than that, they need to be part of your family. Address: W Main Street, St. If you have decided to get a puppy from this breeder, make sure that you contact Sutphin as soon as possible so you can be added to the waiting list. The breeder raises these pups inside their home and gets them started on potty training here. You should pick up your puppy on release day to start bonding right away. Meeting halfway is also an option you can arrange with the breeder. If you are unable to keep the puppy, Sutphin will take it back without any questions asked, no matter how old the dog is. The last thing the breeder wants is for their dogs to end up in the local pounds or streets. You will find it in the quaint foothills of North Mountain in Falling Waters. They promote selective and ethical breeding. This ensures that their pups are top of the line and healthy. They manifest this with their hands-on approach to training and nourishing the pups from birth. They breed dogs that can be the perfect companions at home and protect and love your family. Their dogs also excel as show dogs and working dogs. The Walter litter has AKC-certified parents, so yes, the puppies are too. This breeder takes the time to ensure that their pups go to the most suitable homes. They ensure the match between the puppy and their new families is perfect. You will need to make this deposit within business days after sending out an email or verbal request. This breeder does not allow you to pick your pup. Instead, they make a match between the adopting family and the pup so that they are best suited to each other. All the kennel breeding dogs have impressive working pedigrees, excellent conformation, pleasant personalities, and intense coloring. The dogs are not kennel dogs but are free to roam around the property. The dogs are good-looking with a great temperament and pedigree. The main focus of this breeder is to raise German Shepherds for companionship, sport, conformation, agility, and police work. They want to highlight the beauty, intelligence, health, reliability, and strength of the breed. Above all, these dogs have pleasant temperaments and can work side by side with humans. So far, their extensive breeding program, experience, and good planning have allowed them to produce litters with outstanding and promising puppies. Being a member of the Metropolitan Executive, Vom Pegasus also empowers owners by providing training that can help achieve positive results for their German Shepherds. They have a variety of training programs led by experts. The goal is to ensure you build a great long-term relationship with your dog. And they will offer all the guidance you need to achieve it. Bring home your four-legged family member from the breeders listed here and experience the joys of owning a German Shepherd soon! If your friends or family members are looking to get a German Shepherd too, make sure you share this article with them!

At BigBullDogs. We offer the best service for purchasing the perfect bulldog puppies, and we have quality studs that have set us apart as the top breeders for bulldogs. Whatever it is that you need regarding these beautiful bullies, this is the right place for you. Here are the varieties we have; What You Need to Know About English Bulldogs English Bulldogs are very distinct from the other breeds of bulldogs and are the more prevalent breed. These sturdy, muscular dogs have a cute waddle walk that directly results from their short, stubby legs. The English bulldog also has a flat-looking face, dark and low set eyes, massive and broad jaws, and fleshy cheeks and lips that give it that signature pouty and droopy look. Its short neck, thick shoulders, and barrelled chest, slightly arched back make it one breed that you can easily identify anywhere. Our standard Male English bulldogs are inches and weigh an average of 50 pounds, while the Female English bulldogs weigh about 40 pounds. All our English bulldogs have the finest textured coats and healthiest skin with a variety of colour patterns. Whether you pick a male English bulldog or female English bulldog from us, you can be assured of their wonderful demeanor and gentle disposition. The AKC recognizes over dog breeds and rated the Bulldog as 2 for the best family dog breed. They are incredible family dogs but not the best watch dogs these days. The last nine decades of domestication has turned them into couch potatoes, considerably different from their original genetic breeding that made them perfect for Bull Baiting. Nevertheless they are fantastic at lying on the couch and giving you the stink eye when you disturb their rest. Quick Guide to French Bulldogs French bulldogs were named for their origin story, which says that they were a breed of English toy bulldogs and several unidentified dog breeds. They have distinct features that make them stand out against their English counterparts, such as their pointy, bat ears. French bulldogs are small, cute dogs that are very playful and perfect for being a home pet. Regardless of whether you pick the male french bulldogs or the female French bulldogs , you get a pet that is calm, attentive, attention-loving, and a partner to you and your kids. The male french bulldog is an estimated 12 inches in height and 25 pounds in weight. On the other hand, the female french bulldog is about 11 inches and 20 pounds. The male french bulldogs are usually a bit more muscular than females and have larger heads. However both are equally affectionate and super family oriented. Not to be outdone by their British Bulldog cousin, the female french bulldogs also made the Top 10 Best Family Dog breeds list in .Looking to Adopt Bulldogs? I am familiar with common and uncommon health problems they may face so when my boyfriend and I decided we were ready to adopt our own english puppy finding a reputable breeder that prioritizes health was most important to us. Erica and Mitch of Bruiser Bulldogs are just that. They are experienced, ethical and quality breeders. I was referred to them by my friend that I trust after I saw their gorgeous healthy puppy. Our Puppy Primrose is the light of our lives! Bruisers was there to assist us every step of the way. We would highly recommend Bruisers Bulldogs to anyone looking for their own happy, healthy pup! Leah H. We were lucky to have come across Bruiser Bulldogs and even more so the fact that they were near our family and hometown made it even better. We have had Clementine Callie for four months now, and she is a wonderful dog. Her personality is amazing, and I think part of it is breeding and the other part is Erika and her family lovingly raising the puppies in their home with plenty of attention and snuggles. I also was impressed that, rather than send the puppies out right at 8 weeks, Erika kept ours for a few extra weeks because she was tiny and not read to leave her mom yet. It's that care that differentiates Bruisers from other breeders. Emily R. Erica was easy to work with thru the entire process from application to adopting and now beyond as we host our new family member, Chief. Her on-call support and willingness to provide open, honest advice to all of our questions and concerns continues to be appreciated. We would highly recommend Bruiser Bulldogs to anyone looking for an English Bulldog to join their family. Elizabeth W. Lady L. They are experienced, responsive and knowledgeable about all things bulldog related. They went above and beyond for us and are truly dedicated to all of their pups! We love our little girl so much and would recommend Bruiser to anyone looking for a healthy beautiful bully. Jonathan E. Erica and Mitch are trustworthy, excellent communicators, fair, passionate, and produce the best bulldogs. We were at the top of the waiting list for months and Erica reached out every litter to see if we were finally ready for a bulldog. When we were, she was very easy to work with. Her knowledge on bulldogs is outstanding. We had many questions on the process and she always knew what was best for the puppy. We've had Penny formerly Blair for two months and she is very healthy, energetic, playful, and sweet. She is great with other people and dogs. We are so happy with our pup. When we are ready for bulldog 2, we will only consider Bruiser Bulldogs. Mitch C. Bowser was born April and is an integral part of our family. When we were first exploring English Bulldog breeders our biggest concern was the overall health of the dogs. We decided to work with Erica at Bruiser Bulldogs because we liked their focus on improving the breeds breathing abilities and the fact that the puppies are raised within her family environment before coming home with their new owners. Bowser also breaths clearly and our vet was impressed with his overall health from the moment we brought him home. All that said we know English Bulldogs have a predisposition to many health issues and that his current health can not predict the future. With that In mind its important to start with a breeder that open to answer any of your questions as Erica has ours, and that strongly believes in improving the breeds overall health profile. Adam B. My sister ended up finding Bruiser Bulldogs and we knew right away that they were the breeder for us. In September we ended up driving 9 hours to pick up two Bruiser bulldog puppies- one for my husband and I and one for my mom. Jackson and Penelope have been nothing but a joy. They are both very athletic and healthy. They are also HUGE snugglers and always want to be with you. It is an absolute pleasure having these two bullies in our lives! Erica is very knowledgeable about the breed. She is very hands on throughout the process and is just overall a kind and honest person to work with. With all that being said I cannot recommend Bruiser Bulldogs enough! Collyn C. One of the reasons we chose Bruiser Bulldogs was due to the claims about breeding for health. During our first visit at our vet's office, he told us that our pup was one of the healthiest English bulldogs he had ever seen. He is healthy, happy and social. Would recommend to anyone. Christina S. We seen our dog on their website and sent them an Email. Mitch called us and personally walked us through the process and made sure we had the right dog for our family. We couldn't be happier when we picked up our dog Ramsey, Erica made sure we had everything we needed and then some. They are truly amazing people who breed truly amazing dogs! Jim T. Free Bulldog Puppy Starter Kit! Call Morgan at for specific pup identification if you are leaning towards placing an early deposit. Please check back, we update our website daily! Please see our Deposit Page and our Transportation Page for information on getting your puppy. We love the English bulldog temperament, physique and expression, I just personally like it to be about lbs. We find the smaller sizes are more buoyant and playful and, though still very heat sensitive, are better able to cope with life in general. Downsizing an AKC breed takes time. Our girls all come from long lines of lb. We not trying for 20 pounders…our goal is to have healthy, beautiful babies that consistently mature at lbs. If you see a puppy that tugs on your heartstrings please call, or go to our deposit page for more information. In the last few years it has become clear that most people would prefer their puppy to be transported using our White Glove transport or Nanny Flight transport. Today, we have requests for our Puppies from all over the country. Because of this, the majority those requesting a Sugarplum Bulldog Puppy have also requested transport to their area of the country; those in Florida, for example, cannot easily make the drive to RI. As such, the majority of our Puppies have shifted to a transport model; this gets them closer to their new forever home. Because of this, we have come to the decision, that for the well being of our Puppies and for the benefit of our new Sugarplum Bulldog owners, we have developed a transport model for our pups using our Puppy-Mobile with direct transport to the pups new Forever Home! Our Mid-Western breeding home is co-owned by Sugarplum Bulldogs, and our partner. I realize that not having a chance to play with the Pups is disappointing to some, but please understand that our team are dedicated to the highest level of care for our little Pups. We truly feel that this new model is in the best interested of our Puppies and their new homes. Please feel free to ask me any questions…. Many dog breeders vary their puppy prices based on these colors. All this can cost money. If you wonder how much a gray English bulldog puppy costs, read on. We have the details for you. It is important to understand that English bulldog prices can vary greatly. Sometimes, breeders set their puppy prices on their websites even before the pups are born. This is done on the basis of estimation, so naturally, the prices tend to go up once the litters arrive. Older gray English bulldog puppies tend to cost even more since the dogs undergo a color change around 8 months and the adult coloring sets in. Many breeders also train their puppies and socialize them with other dogs and kids. This increases the price. You can always ask the breeder to lock in the price by paying a deposit. Good breeders always adhere to the price discussed. What is the rarest color for English bulldogs? Merle-colored English Bulldogs are pretty rare. Check out our detailed price guide about Merle English Bulldogs with Pictures! Are English bulldogs expensive? Yes, purebred English Bulldogs from reputed breeders are expensive as the breed is extremely popular. Related Articles:.

Black Brown A red-colored Labradoodle is the rarest of them all. Much darker than a gold or apricot-colored Labradoodle, they are a similar color to an Irish Red Setter. To be a real red, their nose must be black, not brown. His entire coat should be red, and the hair needs to be the same shade from base to tip. So finding a Red Labradoodle is even more extraordinary. As such, his pricing will reflect this. Labradoodle Colors Explained Although we all have our favorite colors, there are a few things that you need to consider. Firstly, the color should not be your entire basis for choice. Just because there is a pup in the litter that matches your best outfit does not necessarily make it the best match for you and your family. So, it is essential to look beyond the coat color. A reputable breeder will pair you with the pup they think is the best fit for your lifestyle. Even if that is the only color that you want in the litter. For example, a recent study has shown that chocolate-colored Labradors have a significantly lower lifespan compared to their black and golden siblings. They also have a higher rate of skin and ear problems too. White-colored and dilute colors in dogs are also believed to be linked to health concerns. For example, white dogs have an increased chance of deafness and blindness compared to non-white dogs. Diluted colors are also linked to a condition known as Color Dilution Alopecia, which is known to affect standard-sized Poodles. The majority of Labradoodles in these colors, if bred under a reputable breeder, will not be affected or unhealthy. But, if you do get a pup with these colors , make sure you are aware of the symptoms associated with their potential pigment-related conditions. Final Thoughts No matter what color Labradoodle you choose, or whatever shade your Labradoodle pooch grows into, know that you will have a beautiful and bouncy pup. They will brighten up your day for sure. Always work with a reputable breeder, and no matter what color you choose, you should be the recipient of a healthy and happy pooch. See also:. The type of hair might not be a heritage of Labrador Retrievers, but their coat shades might be… at least Lab colors like chocolate, cream, black, and others. All of these hues will be described in the paragraphs below, including the rarest Labradoodle shades that you might not have come across before. Apricot This type of Labradoodle coat color is also known as the golden Labradoodle because it resembles the trademark color of Golden Retrievers. However, the apricot hue is acknowledged as one of the official colors of Poodles — one of the parent breeds of Labradoodles, and the color gene carrier. Apricot Labradoodles are one of the most popular types of this mixed breed mainly because they remind us of fluffy teddy bears. Even though the majority of their coat is colored in the apricot shade, the pigment around the nose, eyes, and paws is usually colored in black or in dark brown. Red Experts in Doodles will immediately know that the red Labradoodles inherited this shade from red Poodles — their parent breed. This shade is quite similar to the apricot color, but Red Labradoodles have a significantly deeper hue. This type of shade could also be described as a mahogany hue because they share almost the same richness in color. Parti Have you ever heard of a Parti Poodle? In order to get a Parti pattern, both parent breeds have to be carriers, which is why this pattern is commonly present only in F1 and F1b Labradoodles and those of higher generations. When looking at a Parti Labradoodle, you can also see tints of silver or blue every once in a while. These pups also have a black nose in most cases, just like the Labradoodle types mentioned above. Cream Cream Labradoodles also known as caramel cream are one of the most prevalent types of Labradoodles, which are often related to white or golden pups, even though their coat is darker than white, but paler than the apricot ones. The color of their fur is supposed to be uniform throughout their entire coat, although some pups might have a little deeper tint concentrated on the areas around the eyes, nose, and mouth. This type of color is often used as a base shade for other Labradoodle colors, such as merle, parti in some cases, although white appears much more often , and Phantom Labradoodles. Therefore, some cream pups might end up with a black or a brown nose, eyes of varying colors, and even paws in brighter or deeper shades. Black This color of Labradoodle is quite popular, but it might not be as common as the cream shade mentioned above. The main reason for that is the fact that the black pigment also comes from a recessive gene, which requires both parent breeds to carry the same color pigment. However, there is no guarantee that a Black Labradoodle will result from two black parent breeds as they might be born in a hazel hue or in a chocolate shade. The highest chances of receiving a black Labradoodle are if black Labradors mix with black Poodles. Everything else will probably end up in a darker shade, but far from the black hue. Blue One of the main misconceptions about blue Labradoodles and blue Poodles is that they are actually colored in blue. This shade can be best described as a dark, shadowy-gray hue, which is quite uncommon. Canines can only have this type of color if they receive the Poodle gene that causes fading of the coat shade. On the other hand, this color can also be a result of a combination of parent breeds that are both carriers of the diluted pigment. Aussie Labradoodles share many similar traits with the Lab and Poodle cross, including coat colors. The dominant nose pigment is brown, which appears only if one parent possesses the same nose color. They are neither white nor cream pups; if these pups stood next to white Poodles, they would look like cream pups. It is not excluded for chalk-white puppies to develop certain health issues related to the eyes, which is a part of the heritage of white albino canines that are prone to deafness and blindness in some cases. Chalk-whites might not develop such serious health conditions, but one of the things that many Labradoodle owners will notice is tear-staining , which can often cause darker patches around the eyes. White Poodles are usually more prone to tear-staining, but it can be noticed in Poodles and their mixes of other bright shades. One of the main reasons why chocolate Labradoodles also called brown are so common is the fact that this is a standard color of Labrador Retrievers. Poodles also carry the brown gene, although this shade is richer and darker than the Lab one. Brown Poodles are usually described as pups with deep, golden-brown eyes and a rich, brown coat that have liver shade on the tips of the hair. This is because the brighter-colored dominant traits have a tendency to obscure the appearance of the darker-colored recessive genes, which is why this phenomenon occurs. The most accurate way to characterize a Chocolate Labradoodle is to say that its hue is somewhere between pecan and mahogany. The main shade is always found at the base of the coat hair while the second hue appears only on the tips of it. The base color can be either black or brown; however, these shades will soon begin to fade, leaving a much lighter coat hue when puppies become adults. Still, some canines might retain a deeper shade on the tips of their hair, which is known as the sable pattern. Silver Labradoodles are quite rare; this shade appears more often as a part of multicolored Labradoodles rather than a single color. They have silver lines that are found all over their body, which makes the coat hair shiny. Are Labradoodles Silver At Birth? Just like blue Labradoodles, silver puppies are born with black coat hair, which makes it difficult to define the exact color of the puppy until they grow older. This is the best way to increase the likelihood of obtaining the desired dog shade. The Merle pattern is defined as a color gene that is responsible for the formation of multicolored spots in a solid base color of a coat. Essentially, it can be said that a merle Labradoodle is nothing more than a Labradoodle in any solid shade, with different hue blotches. Merle is considered to be a complex gene that still intrigues a great number of canine experts. Merle Poodles can be crossed with merle Labradors in order to get this unique pattern, although both of these parent types are just as rare as their cross. Are There Double Merle Labradoodles? This phenomenon can occur in cases where two canines that possess the merle gene are crossed. Unfortunately, puppies with double merle-defined markings are prone to several health issues that include hearing impairment and poor eyesight. This is the primary reason why ethical Labradoodle breeders avoid crossing two merle pups. Therefore, every potential owner should require at least one single-colored parent, and more information on the bloodline of the pup. Gray-colored pups get this hue as they grow older as most of them are born either brown or black. Around the age of two, the coat of a dark Labradoodle begins to take on the appearance of lighter shades. After they completely lose the darker appearance, they take on the gray shade, which might become even lighter during their adult years. These pups are considered gray-colored Doodles despite the fact that they are not technically considered to be Labradoodles. These two colors are similar to the point that many people actually identify them as the same shade. However, that might not be the case. One of the main reasons why these two shades should be considered separate colors is the fact that the silver shade appears in lines on a darker coat while the gray hue covers the entire body. Also, the silver hue might appear only if the coat is black from birth while the gray one appears in deeper brown puppies. Phantom Photo from: miss. Most people have already heard about the Phantom Poodle — a pup with an exceptional coat that is also the parent breed of Phantom Labradoodles. The second color of this combination can be any shade, including cream and silver, along with distinctive white markings that are typically found on the chest, paws, above the eyes, and on the sides of the muzzle. Lavender Photo from: roxthedoodle This is one of the unique shades of Labradoodles that is generally described as a diluted chocolate shade. According to experts, the lavender color appears after the shade of certain chocolate Labradoodles starts to either fade or become brighter. As the Labradoodles grow older, their coat changes from a rich brown hue to milk chocolate until they end up in a lilac-like shade, which can be defined as a grayish hue with a hint of pink. Tuxedo Photo from: welcomeacreslabradoodles This is one of the most popular colors among parti Labradoodles. The reason why these canines are called tuxedos is simply the black and white color combination in which they appear. However, the rest of their body should be colored black. To increase the chances of getting this shade, you will have to combine a Lab of a white coat with a parti Poodle. Black and white pups usually have white color displaying around their eyes, nose, and on the top of their head, which never appears in a tuxedo pattern. What Are Abstract Labradoodles? This type of Labradoodle is a pooch that has several shades on their coat. Essentially, it can be any shade mixed with white color. However, the white hue should cover less than half of their body in order for a pup to be defined as abstract. Most people might find this answer rather confusing as they might have seen Labradoodle pups with a red coat often. However, a red Labradoodle will not be considered complete if it has a nose pigment that is different from black. Also, this type of doggie will need to have a solid-base red shade, which will not have any darker or brighter points on any part of the coat. This shade is believed to possess the most dominant gene, which is transferred from parent breeds to pups. Chocolate and white pups are right behind, along with apricot and cream shades. Although this might seem unlikely, in some cases, certain shades can have an impact on the life expectancy of Labradoodles. Labradoodles have the same lifespan as Poodles — 12 to 15 years, which is a great thing considering that Labrador Retrievers usually live up to 12 years only. However, the lifespan of Labradoodles might be shortened with the occurrence of serious health issues, including cardiovascular diseases, eye issues, or any other condition that can have a negative effect on their life. Wrapping Up I hope this guide through all the Labradoodle colors has helped you finally understand the differences between different types of these wonderful crossbreeds. All Labradoodles deserve to have a loving home just as much as every other canine regardless of their shades. The most common Labradoodle colors are black, cream and gold. Black Labradoodles are common finding generally one per litter. These Labradoodles represent the base price for a dog within this breed. The color of a cream Labradoodle can vary between different shades with some having red tinges through their coat. Although the color cream may vary the whole coat should be one consistent color. Apricot Labradoodles are often born with lighter colored coats that darken over time while others that are born apricot in color develop to have a light cream coat. The entire strand of fur on a golden Labradoodle should be the same color. Golden Labradoodles often fade as they grow. These dogs are neither common or rare. These Labradoodles should hold their color until adulthood. The chocolate colored Labradoodles tend to be a popular choice. Their coloring should be even. Chocolate Labradoodles often appear almost black at birth. A parchment should not have other colors mixed into the fur. Large blotches of any color on white make for an acceptable Parti colored Labradoodle. The hardest to breed and come by is the red Labradoodle. Any combination of two colors is acceptable as long as they have the distinctive markings. A black and gold phantom is among the most common. These dogs are on the rarer spectrum. These Dogs are on the rarer spectrum. While gold is a common color, the birth of a Labradoodle with a deep red coloring is as rare as they come. A red Poodle is unusual making a red Labradoodle even harder to come by. The roots of a red Labradoodle should match the tips. Red Labradoodles are hard to breed and even harder to come by. Red Labradoodle Puppy and Adult The range of Labradoodle coat colors is extensive although no matter which puppy you pick, Labradoodles make loving life long friends. Related posts:. The Labradoodle is a blend between his parent breeds, namely the Labrador Retriever and any type of Poodle dog. These mixed breed dogs can take on any of their parent coat colors or a combination thereof. As these are not purebred dogs, you can even find various colored puppies within the same litter, making it quite impossible to predict what color a puppy will turn out. You can look at the parent dogs to get some idea of what color puppies are most likely. In these dogs, lighter colors are the more dominant genes. When looking at Labradoodles, an F1 dog is a first-generation cross, meaning they are the direct descendant of Labrador Retriever and Poodle parents. These dogs have the most unpredictable coats. F1B dogs, however, are a cross between an F1 Labradoodle and a Poodle making their coat colors easier to predict. Do their coats change colors as they age? The coat of many Labradoodles will fade or get dimmer from around two or three years. A week-old brown Labradoodle puppy In fact, this is one breed of dog that is quite notorious for having its coat change color as it ages. Most of the time, the coat fades or gets lighter as your Labradoodle grows. Do Labradoodle puppies get lighter or darker? This is a process known as clearing. The 3 Most Common Labradoodle Colors Typically when you see Labradoodle puppies being advertised, they are one of three standard color variations. These are the most common colors in a litter and thus the most readily available. Cream The Cream Labradoodle has a coat that is like an off-white, not quite the brilliant white of a white Labradoodle but not the deep rich gold of the Apricot Labradoodle. The entire coat is the same cream color; this dog will have a black or brown nose and black or brown eyes. The cream can sometimes be a bit darker around the face. Breeders lovingly refer to some dogs with brown noses as caramel creams. Gold or Apricot Source: lady. They are slightly darker than their cream counterparts. The whole coat will be the same color with a black nose and black or brown eyes. Meet an adorable eight-week-old Apricot Labradoodle in this video: 3. This is one of the most common colors for the Labradoodle cross, and generally, most litters will have at least one black puppy even if the rest are light in color. The 5 Standard Labradoodle Colors and Patterns Alongside the above three common Labradoodle colors, another five colors are also not unusual to find in a litter. Although they are not as common as the above three colors, they are also not rare and so fetch average prices. The white shade is prevalent across the entire coat but can sometimes be darker on the face, particularly around the mouth. The light coat of these dogs is quick to pick up tear stains which are darker patches around the eyes. Like the Cream Labradoodle, these dogs will have a black or brown nose and eye color. The shade is so dark that it can appear black at birth, but the chocolate color usually is visible within a few weeks. They typically have brown noses and brown eyes, although rare blue-eyed chocolate dogs sometimes do occur. These particular pups are very sought after and will fetch a high price tag. Like the Chocolate Labradoodle, however, the shade can appear darker at birth, lightening as the dog ages. In their senior years, their coats can even have a blue-grey tinge. Like the Chocolate Labradoodle, they usually have brown eyes and a brown nose, although blue eyes are known to occur occasionally. The coat is typically white with large patches or spots of another color. The most common colors for these patches are red and chocolate. It is a light, watery brown, almost like a weak cup of coffee. Around his face, nose, and ears, the color can be darker. The tips of the hair are also often lighter than the base, making him appear as if his coat has two tones. Is it okay to get a rare color of this breed? Unfortunately, some unreputable breeders advertise their puppies as rare colored dogs only to discover otherwise when the dog is shipped to you, so be sure to do your research thoroughly. Also, some breeders will mate rare-colored siblings to get more puppies of these unique colors. This inbreeding is dangerous as it can lead to many health problems. Phantom refers not to the actual color of the dog as these puppies can be any color, but they need to have distinct phantom markings. These include patches of a second color above the eyes, on their chin, to the side of their muzzle, and on the chest. The most common color variant is a black and gold Phantom Labradoodle. Abstract Unlike the Phantom Labradoodle, which must follow a strict set of markings, the Abstract Labradoodle has no pattern at all. These dogs are simply an abstract mix of any of the above-mentioned Labradoodle colors. If a dog is majority white, then he is considered to be a Parti-colored Labradoodle and not an Abstract Labradoodle. These dogs are noticeably darker than the Apricot Labradoodle. Their color resembles that of the Irish Red Setter. To be considered an authentic Red Labradoodle, a dog should have a black, not brown, nose, and his hair should be one color from base to tip. The only way to get this shade is to breed a Red Poodle with a Fox Red Lab , and both of these dogs are extremely hard to come by, making the Red Labradoodle incredibly uncommon. As such, they are costly. What are Other Labradoodle Colors? Here are a few more colors of the Labradoodle. Caramel Labradoodle: Caramel-colored dogs vary between light yellow and dark red and have liver noses. The difference between caramel dogs and cream, apricot, gold, or red dogs is their nose. Blue Labradoodle: These pups are born black with a blue tinge to their fur. The blue shade becomes more prominent as your dog ages, developing into a deep smoky blue that covers the entire coat of the dog. Silver Labradoodle: These dogs are born black but develop into Silver Labradoodles within the first couple of years. The color sits between a light grey and dark charcoal, and there is sometimes even a layering in the coat. These dogs have black eyes and black noses. Black and White Labradoodles have very distinct features: a black body and white chest, muzzle, and head. On the other hand, Tuxedo Labradoodles have a white tummy and legs with a black face and back. Grey Labradoodle: These dogs are similar to the Silver Labradoodle. They are born chocolate or black, and at around two years old, they start to fade to grey. If they have a lighter skin color, then their coat will probably fade as they age. Lavender Labradoodle: This dog has a smoky chocolate lavender coat that almost looks pink or lilac in a particular light. As puppies, they appear to be chocolate in color, and then the lavender color develops within the first few years. Their eyes and nose are a rose color. Cafe Labradoodle: Cafe is a coffee-looking color that can vary from a deep beige to light milk. The nose of these dogs is rose. What are Other Labradoodle Coat Patterns In addition to all of the above coat colors for the Labradoodle cross, you can also see some unique patterns on the coat of this gorgeous dog. This includes sable, merle, brindle, and various other unique combinations. These dogs are born all black but change to cream or white as they age. They typically keep some black patches on their body as they age, such as their ears. Merle Source: lucy. While they may look beautiful, these dogs generally suffer from a host of health problems such as visual impairment, hearing problems, and even bodily disfigurements. Are Blue Merle Labradoodles rare? Merle Labradoodles only occur when the parent dogs carry the recessive Merle gene. These tiger stripes are most obvious on their back and legs. This type of pattern is not very common with the Labradoodle breed. Do their colors affect their behavior? Thankfully, the Labradoodle crossbreed is known for its friendly, loving nature. These dogs are also incredibly loyal, intelligent, and playful, making them excellent family pets. Do their colors affect their health? Yes, the different Labradoodle colors can have an impact on the health of a dog. For instance, Chocolate Labradoodles are more prone to developing skin and ear problems and generally lead shorter lives than their more common Gold and Black counterparts. White-colored dogs also present with several health ailments, including an increased risk for blindness and deafness. Each coat type must be brushed at least twice a week. If your dog has the curly coat type of the Poodle breed for which Labradoodles are most well known, they will also need to be professionally groomed and cut every few months. As these dogs typically have a lot of hair in their ear canals, they can easily pick up infections and debris. As you can see, there are many coat colors to choose from when selecting a Labradoodle puppy. You might opt for the popular Gold Labradoodle, seek out a rare Red Labradoodle, or instead choose a striking Parti-colored or Abstract Labradoodle that has unique patterns on his coat. That said, color should not be the only factor you consider when choosing a Labradoodle for your home. A good breeder will pair you with a puppy that will match your lifestyle and not just your color choices. Do you have a Labradoodle at home? What coat color did you choose, and did he keep his coat color from puppyhood through to being an adult dog? Raised by a bundle of botanists, researchers, and biologists, she is passionate about things related to the animal kingdom, including, our furry friends. However, as a terrible allergy sufferer, she is limited in her pet selection and so has grown up surrounded by curly-haired Poodles. Leave a Comment. Tweet on Twitter Your red Labradoodle is a unique dog! Of course, you probably already know this! One glance at that cute face and sweet eyes is usually all it takes. From coat to color, personality to temperament, grooming to health. What is a Red Labradoodle? The Red Labradoodle as a Hybrid But what you need to know first is that, underneath all that fur, your Labradoodle dog carries genes from two purebred dogs. The Standard Poodle and the Labrador Retriever. This is why the Labradoodle is called a hybrid breed as it has parents from two different purebred lineages. There is technically no such thing as a purebred Labradoodle. A red Labradoodle that has one miniature Poodle parent and one Labrador Retriever parent is called a mini-Labradoodle. Because the Labradoodle is a hybrid dog breed that was first developed in Australia, sometimes this dog is also called the Australian Labradoodle. Red Labradoodle Genetics Canine genetics can be a complicated topic. Luckily, only Labradoodle breeders need to master the genetic issues that can help breed the healthiest pups. Every dog has two pigments: black eumelanin and red phaeomelanin. This is because dogs also inherit other genes that can change these two colors. Some genes will change black until it looks brown, blue, grey or some variation. Others will modify red until it looks yellow, golden, cream, orange, tan or some variation. So this explains how the red Labradoodle gets that red-spectrum coat. But what determines eye and nose color? Eye and nose color in your Red Labradoodle Eumelanin is the gene that determines nose and eye color. Other genes can change the black of eumelanin until it appears brown, hazel, amber, or some other color. A well-bred, true hybrid red Labradoodle will always inherit dark brown eyes and a black nose. The Australian Labradoodle Association of America has some great pictures that show the different eye and coat colors that Labradoodle dogs can inherit. Hybrid dog breeding is not a new science. Nearly every purebred dog breed we know and love was originally a hybrid one! In the case of the Labradoodle hybrid dog, this influence comes from the Standard Poodle and Labradoodle Retriever. This is why it is so important to meet and interact with both parent dogs before making a commitment to a puppy from a particular litter. Luckily, both Standard Poodles and Labrador Retrievers are great family dogs who are good with children and incredibly smart, loyal and people-focused. This is one primary reason why the Labradoodle has become such a popular choice! Red Labradoodle Health At the time of publication, there is no research suggesting that Labradoodle health is influenced by coat color. There is a genetic screening test for this. The test can determine whether a Labradoodle puppy is a non-carrier not at risk , a carrier not at risk but can pass the gene along to puppies or at risk. The reason this is important is that an Australian Labradoodle who is a carrier or at risk may be more likely to develop genetic alopecia. A heritable hair loss condition that typically shows up between the ages of 4 months and 24 months. Alopecia related to coat color dilution causes breakage of the hair shaft and increases the potential for bacterial infections folliculitis. The best way to pick the healthiest puppy is to learn all you can about known genetic health issues in each parent dog and ensure your breeder has done all required pre-testing. Other recommended tests include cardiac, thyroid or sebaceous adenitis SA. Known Labrador Retriever genetic health issues Labrador Retrievers that will be bred should first be tested for hip and elbow dysplasia, exercise-induced collapse EIC , eye issues and D locus dilute DNA. Red Labradoodle Grooming Any Labradoodle dog may inherit one of three coat types: wool, fleece or hair. Wool Labradoodle coat type The wool coat type is the most like a typical Poodle coat — dense, wiry, curly and mostly non-shedding. This coat type is the most difficult to maintain because shed hair can quickly cause tangles and mats. Expect plenty of at-home and professional brushing and grooming! Fleece Labradoodle coat type The fleece coat type gets its name from its feel — silky with soft waves or curls. This type may not shed or shed seasonally. This coat type can be looked after fairly easily at home with regular brushing and clipping to keep hair out of the eyes, ears, paw pads and private areas. Hair Labradoodle coat type The hair coat type is longer and straighter and more like a traditional Labrador Retriever coat. This coat will shed, emit an odor and could trigger allergies in those sensitive. Regular brushing will also be essential to keep shedding manageable. What determines red Labradoodle coat type? Which coat type your red Labradoodle inherits will depend on each purebred parent dog. In general, F1 breeding programs will produce the greatest variation in coat types in a litter. Different Labradoodle breeding program types Different Labradoodle breeders may choose to specialize in earlier, later or multi-generation Labradoodle breeding programs. Early-generation breeding programs are called F1 or F1b programs. These will breed by crossing a purebred Standard Poodle with a purebred Labrador. While F1b programs will cross a purebred Poodle with a hybrid Labradoodle. There is now also an F1bb breeding program that crosses a purebred Standard Poodle with an F1b Labradoodle. These puppies have a very high likelihood of having a non-shedding adult coat. Later-generation breeding programs are called F2 or F2b. These programs will cross two early-generation hybrid Labradoodle parent dogs. Multi-generation breed programs are called F3. This type of breeding program crosses later-generation hybrid Labradoodle parent dogs. Labradoodle coat type genetic test Knowing what type of breeding program your puppy comes from impacts coat type, which is one of the main reasons why Labradoodles have become so popular. No dog is truly hypo-allergenic, unfortunately, although this is still a popular marketing ploy some breeders may use. How to pick a Reputable Labradoodle Breeder Feeling sure you are selecting a reputable, health-focused Labradoodle breeder can be nerve-wracking, especially if this is your first time choosing a breeder to work with. This article offers 41 ways to spot a bad breeder. This article offers expert tips on how to pick a good breeder. Your Red Labradoodle We hope you have enjoyed learning more about your red Labradoodle dog! Are you sharing your life with a red Labradoodle or do you plan to in the future? Do you have more questions that we can help you answer? Please share your stories and questions in the comments section below! More Great Guides. This color can do some interesting things! It can fade into at least three distinct, official Labradoodle colors! Go figure!! I have had one of my chocolate girls turn completely Lavender on her body but not the head, then within a year, go completely back to dark chocolate. So, like a good Boy Scout, when you purchase a chocolate Labradoodle, be prepared for anything! All are lovely, but they are almost impossible to predict with any significant degree of accuracy. Once again, be prepared for anything! Chocolate Colors Now we get to the fun part; the color combinations! This is where things get interesting. Partis can come in any color, with either color nose. Some are mostly white, while some have lots of color and less white. The ones that are mostly white are called "Extreme" Partis. The variations are endless and unique, like a snowflake. The colors, such as chocolate, on a parti can change in the same ways that they would on a solid dog. Often confused with "Parti" is a dog with heavy white mismarks or a Tuxedo. White mismarks can be very small or very heavy, or anywhere in-between. The puppy is born either Black or Chocolate and immediately begins to lose the dark color, revealing anything from a cream to a red underneath! The tips of the fur may retain their dark cast, but the dog will present as somewhere on the cream-red spectrum. I have included her picture below showing her in the middle of the changing process. The genetics of color are absolutely fascinating!

For more information, go to www. Target does not represent or warrant that this information is accurate or complete. On occasion, manufacturers may modify their items and update their labels. We recommend that you do not rely solely on the information presented. If you have a specific question about this item, you may consult the item's label, contact the manufacturer directly or call Target Guest Services at .Description This two-room design puppy whelping box from PawHut provides a comfortable environment for a new mother dog, who can experience anxiety after having her babies. When the first two weeks have passed, it's important to allow her to have her own space, and this separated design ensures she gets what she needs, featuring a removable door for open access. With dual-sided construction, the mama can have the comfort of airflow while the puppies have a wind-resistant space. Report incorrect product info. Estimated ship dimensions: .This item must be returned within 90 days of the date it was purchased in store, shipped, delivered by a Shipt shopper, or made ready for pickup. See the return policy for complete information. Ask a question. A whelping box is a safe, enclosed space where a dog can give birth and care for her puppies. The box typically has high sides to prevent the puppies from accidentally falling out, and it is often lined with soft bedding material to keep the puppies warm and comfortable. The box may also include a heat lamp to provide additional warmth, and it may be equipped with a door that can be opened or closed for easy, safe access, and to regulate the temperature inside. A whelping box should be large enough for the mother to move around comfortably, but small enough to retain body heat and provide a feeling of security. It should be used from the time your dog goes into labor until the puppies are weaned. Once the puppies are weaned, they can be moved to a puppy pen or dog crate. By the way, a whelping box should also have puppy rails. Puppy rails, also known as pig rails, are secured inside the whelping box quite low around the perimeter of the box. This is a crucial safety feature, as it helps prevent the puppies from being crushed against the wall of the box How Does A Whelping Box Help? A dog whelping box is an essential piece of equipment for any dog owner who is expecting a litter of puppies, as it helps to ensure the health and safety of both the mother and her offspring. A whelping box provides a safe, warm environment for your dog to have her puppies. This helps keep the mama calm during the labor and keep stress levels to a minimum while caring for the pups in a safe space. If you have other pets in the house, a whelping box ensures that they do not disturb or hurt the puppies. Using a whelping box also reduces the risk of the puppies becoming injured or lost. A DIY whelping box is an easy and affordable way to provide a safe space for your dog to have her puppies. Building a whelping box is a simple project that anyone can do. There are quite a few different ways to do that — most of them being very simple, quick, and inexpensive. Choose a bin that is large enough for your dog to move around comfortably, but small enough to retain body heat. If the sides are very high, drill or cut holes in the sides of the bin for ventilation. Finally, line the bottom of the bin with appropriate materials to absorb any mess. And there you have it, a cheap DIY whelping box! Find a sturdy cardboard box that is large enough for your dog to move around in. Cut holes in the sides of the box for ventilation. You should also cut an appropriate sized opening for the mama and puppies to get out of the box comfortably. Line the bottom of the box with comfy and cushy materials that absorb any mess. Cardboard is very porous and it can get flimsy rather quickly. However, you may want to opt for something sturdier and less porous instead. Bring Out The Kiddie Pool You can build a whelping box out of many different materials, but one of the cheapest and easiest options is to use a kiddie pool. To create a kiddie pool whelping box, simply clean the pool thoroughly, secure the puppy rails you can use pool noodles for this , and line it with towels or blankets. Place the pool in a quiet, draft-free room in your home and make sure that it is big enough for your dog to move around comfortably. But, a sturdy wood whelping box can be used over and over again, making it well worth your time. Of course, you should carefully consider which type of wood you use. For instance, the popular plywood is actually very porous, making it harder to clean. It also traps in dirt and bacteria, which could lead to infections and illnesses. Start by measuring your mama dog and the area where you want to place the whelping box and cut the wood to size. Be sure to make the opening large enough for your dog to comfortably enter and exit. In addition to that, you should also attach low rails inside the box. But why PVC? PVC is a strong, durable material that can withstand a lot of wear and tear. And if it does get dirty, a quick wipe-down is all it takes to clean it. In addition, PVC is lightweight and easy to assemble, making it ideal for use in a whelping box. Many whelping boxes available for purchase are made from PVC materials thanks to all of their amazing qualities. But, as you may know, ready made PVC whelping boxes can be quite pricey. However, PVC pipes make excellent pig rails for that added safety and security. Obviously, you want to make the DIY whelping box as comfortable as possible for the mama and the pups. Some breeders also use heat lamps to keep the whelping box warm. Even though some people opt for newspaper or wood shavings, we recommend you avoid them. Another popular choice is using old bedding or towels. They may get trapped or accidentally crushed by the mother. However, if you manage to secure the blankets and towels in place, they should be safe to use. In addition to that, you can also opt for a specially designed crate pad that stays in place, provides warmth, and is safe for the puppies. Line the bottom of the box with absorbent material and change it often. Wash bedding in hot water and disinfect surfaces regularly. The bedding should be dry at all times, so whenever an accident happens, be sure to change the bedding as soon as possible. Where you place the box is just as important as the box itself. It should be in a quiet area away from the main traffic flow of your home, and out of direct sunlight. You should also keep it far away from potential hazards like open stairways or fireplaces. The whelping box should also be large enough to accommodate the mother dog and all of her puppies comfortably. The temperature in the area should be comfortable — not too hot and not too cold. If necessary you may have to get an additional heating pad or a heating lamp to keep the puppies warm. To build a basic DIY whelping box, you will need either a kiddie pool, cardboard box, or a storage bin. You should also stock up on bedding material like blankets, towels, or crate pads. Next, line the bottom of the box with your chosen bedding material. This will help to keep the puppies warm and dry. Finally, place the box in a quiet, private area where your dog can feel safe and secure. By following these simple steps, you can easily create a cozy space for your dog to welcome her new puppies into the world. PVC tubes are often used to create puppy rails, a. As we mentioned earlier, a dog whelping box should be big enough for the mama and pups to comfortably move around. Yet, it should be snug enough so that it retains body heat. The general recommendation is that a whelping box should be one foot longer than your mama dog. Only measure your dog stretched out, as the mama has to be able to move and stretch comfortably around the box while caring for the puppies. By the way, you can also get some hints from websites that sell different dog whelping boxes. Just take a quick peek at what sizes they offer! It provides a safe, warm environment for the mama and her pups, and helps to contain the mess. Building a DIY whelping box is a simple project that anyone can do. Do you have any tips for building a DIY whelping box? Share them in the comments below! Here are some ideas for your small dog. Cardboard Box One of the least expensive whelping boxes is simply a cardboard box. Make sure it is big enough that your dog can stretch out in it. The nice thing about a cardboard box is that, once you no longer need the whelping box, you can simply throw it away. To make a whelping box out of cardboard, use these easy instructions: Find a box that your dog can comfortably lie down and stretch out in but not much larger than that. The sides should be at least to inches high. You want the sides to be too high for the puppies to climb over, but not so high your dog can't get over it when she wants a break. Smaller breed dogs will be fine with 12 inches, whereas larger breeds will need 24 inches. Cut a "door" into the side of the box for your dog to move in and out of the box. The width of the doorway should be about twice her body's width, and the edge should be high enough to keep puppies in but not so high she hits her belly on it. You will want to use some sort of covering on the cardboard to keep it from getting wet and to make cleaning it easy. You could line it with duct tape, plastic sheeting, tarps, or plastic drop cloths made for painting. Then cover whatever material you use with newspaper or old towels to make the flooring soft and comfortable. Plastic Storage Bin A plastic storage bin can also be used as a whelping box. You want to use the under-the-bed storage type so that the sides will be short enough for the mother dog to easily get in and out. If you decide to go this route, fold old towels on the bottom to ensure there is no chance that your dog will slip when she is moving around. Be aware that depending on the size of your pups, they may be able to get over the sides of the bin as they get bigger. In that case, you can extend the sides of the bin with cardboard. Ideas that will work for bigger dogs, such as Labrador Retrievers and Rottweiler dogs , include: Appliance Boxes If you have a mid-sized breed, you may still be able to find a cardboard box. Check with appliance stores and home improvement stores that carry items that would require bigger boxes. If you can't find one, you still have some inexpensive alternatives. The downside to using these boxes is once the puppies get large enough, they will be able to get over the sides, which they wouldn't with a traditional whelping box with sides at least inches high. Kiddie Pool A hard-sided plastic kiddie pool usually costs less than twenty dollars, and you can get them in several sizes. They are also easy to clean. These pools will last for several litters of puppies. However, just as with appliance boxes, the problem with the kiddie pool is that the sides may not be high enough to keep the puppies in as they get bigger. There are newer types of kiddie pools made just for dogs that have higher sides. Another option for larger dog breeds is to use a water trough , which has higher sides. They're much more expensive but very sturdy and can be reused for whelping, as well as an outdoor pool or bathing area for your dogs. To make a whelping box out of a kiddie pool, find a pool size where your dog can lay out comfortably with some extra room for the puppies. You can line it with a round whelping pad, old towels, newspaper, or even covers made specifically for kiddie pools used for whelping. An excellent safety precaution is adding a PVC pipe frame that serves as puppy rails to keep the mom from rolling over and crushing a newborn pup against the sides. Just be sure the puppies can't get stuck under or between the pipes. To keep puppies from getting out of the pool when they get larger, you can run x-pens or playpen panels around the outside of the pool. Make sure you leave a doorway for the mom to come and go! Whelping Box Plans If you want to build your own cheap whelping box but prefer a different style, you can find simple whelping box plans on the Internet. Here are some to get you started: Are you InTheKnow? Sign up for our newsletter featuring all the latest stories and products we love. Invalid email I agree to receive email communications from LoveToKnow. You can adjust the size for your own breed of dog. The plans are for a very sturdy box that is easy to clean and take apart for storage while standing up to a lot of usage. Supplies needed include two 4-foot by 8-foot plywood sheets, four 2-by-4s for the pig rails, polyurethane, and hardware, such as steel three-corner braces, tee nuts, and cap screws. You'll also need a table saw, drill press, router, screwdriver, and drill with several bits. While the website includes detailed plans and instructions, if you're not accustomed to working with tools and lumber, you may want to hire a contractor to build this box for you. How to Build a Whelping Box with Puppy Rails The PetPlace website provides a very detailed set of step-by-step instructions on how to build a whelping box using plywood, wood strips, vinyl flooring, hinges, and corner braces. You'll also need to be handy in order to build this box, as tools required are a circular saw and drill. The floor is optional, and the instructions allow for removing it to create a bottomless box. The puppy rails are made from the wood strips, although you could also improvise and make a set of puppy rails using PVC pipes and connectors. Building a Whelping Box Another excellent set of plans for a whelping box built with plywood and hardware is found in this YouTube video. The box described in this video has the puppy rails built into the sides as well as two shelf areas in the back for supplies and can be placed on cheap vinyl flooring tiles for easy cleanup. The box was made for a labradoodle , but you can adjust the dimensions of the plans shown in the video for your own dog's size. Cheap Whelping Boxes for Sale If you're not mechanically inclined and balk at the idea of building anything with tools and lumber, you can purchase a box. There are plenty of options if you're on a strict budget. Check with local seller websites such as Craigslist and Facebook Marketplace to see if anyone is selling a box. You can also look on eBay. If you know of any breeders in your area, you could try contacting them to see if they might have a box they want to sell or possibly even rent out to you. It's made of plastic and comes with one whelping pad and PVC puppy rails. If you plan ahead, you can check out the websites of some major manufacturers of high-quality whelping boxes to see if they have sales. Easy to Improvise There are a number of less expensive, homemade whelping box ideas that will work for dogs of all sizes. You can improvise to create suitable whelping boxes that won't break your budget without too much trouble. Just spend some time looking at whelping boxes so you know how they are made and pick the most comfortable and safest style for you, your dog, and her pups. Back to Products 7. QuickWhelp — Whelping Box Nothing beats the warmth, beauty, and strength of wood. Arrives with hardware pre-installed and assembles in minutes. Delivery was prompt and the product arrived in perfect condition with clear instructions for simple set-up. It has many convenient features that make whelping easier. It is easily stored and very convenient to move around. We use it for whelping and as a puppy showing box in and outside of our home. It can be done by one person. The quality is fantastic. Great workmanship. The workmanship is unbeatable. Will be easy to keep clean, will last for years. Shipment depends on where you live, I got mine in 5 days. You need a whelping box…this is the one! Love it! Hsaintamour Back to Products 8. Includes the slide together pvc bumper rail on the inside. Removable door slides out easily. Disassembles and stacks flat for easy storage. The fast shipping was an added bonus. The medium size is perfect for her. I set it up all nice and perfectly for her. Very well made and easy to put together. Its plenty big enough for her and she weighs lbs when not pregnant. Love how you can take the pvc pipe out for when the puppies get bigger to give them more room. Great customer service and quick shipping. Thank you so much! Melissa 9. If the rails have little supports holding them up or they are permanently fixed to the box they are just as dangerous as not having them at all. Our boxes have a specialized design that is guaranteed to protect your puppies. This design has a wood floor. The floor is segmented for ease of assembly and storage. It makes the box very easy to clean. They clean up like new with a simple wipe down. Goes together in minutes, and easily packs down for storage between uses.

Tru-Fit Harness with Seatbelt from Kurgo Yes, you should prefer a harness as it is better than a collar for your Lab puppy. This is because they are safer and offer much more control. A harness can also reduce strains compared to the collar which can cause tension around the delicate neck of your Lab puppy. The following are some of the biggest advantages of using a harness on your Lab puppy. Injuries Can be Prevented Harness always takes pressure away from the neck of your Labrador puppy. So you can pull the leash without hurting the dog. More importantly, this will help Labs to pull the lead without getting any injuries by themselves. Despite this, you should still teach your dog to not pull on the leash. But with harnesses, there is enhanced space for your dog to grow and it will not put any pressure on the neck of your Lab puppy. Provide Control without Cruelty This is the reverse of the final disadvantage of dog collars. It can be used if you are losing control of your pup. In this situation, you can use sheer force to hold back your Lab without causing undue pain and discomfort. In the case of collar, when you try to stop a fleeing Labrador by applying force, it can cause serious pain. Although Labs may respond quicker when you use collar, it is a very unkind act for pups. When can a Labrador Puppy Climb Stairs? Click here to find out. First thing first, it is important to purchase a proper size harness for your Lab puppy. You should start with a small-sized harness, depending upon the age and size of your puppy. The best way to find out whether the dog harness is too small for your Lab puppy is to put the harness properly on your dog. Start with fairly loose so that your dog can easily slip into the harness. Then, tighten it and check whether the harness fits properly by fitting two fingers between your dog and the harness at any point. Harnesses are a great choice for Lab puppies. However, owners need to choose the one in which their dog remains comfortable. You should start with the small one and move to the bigger sizes depending upon the size of your puppy. A harness should be tight enough so that your dog will stop slipping from it, especially if he suddenly reverses on you. However, if there is still gap after the fitting of two fingers, then the harness is too loose or big for your Labrador puppy. Want to make a good homemade meal for your Labrador Puppy? The Lab puppies can wear a harness when they are 8 weeks old. Owners should make sure that the harness is not too heavy or uncomfortable for their dogs. The following table shows the size of Labrador puppies in comparison to their age so that the owners can choose the best size. It has a front and back clip that you can attach to the leash to train your dog. It also comes with four adjustable straps around the neck and chest for perfect fitting, even for large lab puppies. To ensure that your puppy is safe in crowds, the Rabbitgoo harness has an extra handle on the back. However, the handle is a little thin, so if your puppy is a puller, it may break. The entire vest has padding made of breathable, heavy-duty material to promise the comfort of your puppy. The downside here is that it can be tricky to adjust the straps. Pros Available with side buckles to ease the fitting Soft, breathable padding for maximum comfort Comes with an extra handle on the back for better control in crowds Fair price Straps are difficult to adjust Plastic buckles wear off with excess pulling 3. In addition, the Voyager harness has double D-rings to clip onto the leash and keep it secure. It should be no different for your dog. But you need to help him. The Ultimate Guide to Dog Health is the answer. This handy guide will help you recognize the symptoms of the health problems above. Get the knowledge to stay ahead of these terrible issues that can rob your lovely dog from vigor and life. Aside from the correct size, you should consider other features, like durability, adjustable straps, and convenience to get the best bang for your buck. Yet, the material still should be soft and breathable so that your puppy is comfortable while walking and exercising. Adjustable Straps This is a crucial feature to look for in a harness. Paul S. Paul has been creating content for the dog niche for many years. The information he shares comes his first hand experience growing up in dog lovers household and then owning multiple dog breeds of his own as an adult. Paul enjoys doing the hard research to collect, analyze and present our dogtemperament. Front and back Long lines are best attached from the back The back-attachment point is ideal for long lines. Attaching it to the front risks the entangling of the front legs. A front and back harness gives maximum flexibility. Double ended Two leash attachment points Using a back-attachment point lets you use a double-ended leash. A single-ended leash can tighten the harness when only attached to the front. Different harnesses have variable tightness degrees. One with front and back attachment reduces gaping by balancing tension. Clipping the leash attachments at two points sounds too much, but it is best. Optimal control comes from a properly fitted dog harness. Handling large pets become effortless. Material Material quality is the first factor. Nylon, polyester, and breathable hybrid materials are a few options. The harness must not put much pressure on the neck and throat. The pull should be evenly distributed throughout the chest and body. Look for a harness guaranteeing sturdiness and comfort. Strength A 6 month old lab can also drag you in public. Labradors are naturally inclined to swim, play and have high energy. Labs are famous military dogs. Dogs without no-pull training can be challenging to maintain in long walks. A harness with extra padding provides the required strength. Look for safety features, reliable buckles, and quality stitching only. Size Labradors are medium-sized dogs that mature at six months. But they grow after maturity too. A harness with an adjustable strap is handy. A labrador retriever continues to grow for two years. Opt for a flexible harness that can be adjusted. Adjustability Adjustability is a vital consideration for young pups. Adjustable harnesses fit any body type or size. Ensure the clips are adjustable and well-built. A strong and popular breed like a labrador can break cheap clips. Comfort Double padding is a must for both young and old dogs. A soft harness is comfortable and prevents injuries. Some are only made for running and keep your dog in great shape. Safety Safety features like reflective material is a must-have. It increases dog visibility during early morning or night walks. Labrador retrievers who are likely to escape are more secure with such features. Some come with attached handles for more security. It is easier to grab your pet if they take off. Harnesses with seat belt features are also becoming popular. Durability Durability becomes vital if you buy a harness for the lab puppy. Always pick harnesses with a higher durability rating. An extremely durable dog harness will last from puppyhood to adulthood. Go for fully adjustable ones for the best results. Cost Budget is essential but comes second to quality. Buying cheaper products will make you spend again. Though cheap pet products are pocket-friendly, they lack quality. Get a good harness instead of going for cheap ones. Soft vests are best for puppies and older labradors. A front, rear, or dual clip harness is great for adult labs. From dual clip to step-in harnesses, there are several. Labrador Vest Harness These are basic walk harnesses. They are simple, lightweight, and inexpensive and made of mesh, plastic, or nylon. Dog owners with well-behaved dogs on leashes can get these. But the front and back clip harness can be attached at all the points. A double-ended leash is required for the front clip attachment. One point is attached at the front and another at the back. It provides more control over your escape artist. A no-pull dog harness minimizes the pup pulls without hurting them. Tactical Dog Harnesses These are popular for training, trekking, and hunting. Besides labs, it is ideal for other dog breeds, like German Shepherds. Military and service dogs wear tactical harnesses often. Tightening and Control Harness These harnesses are more aggressive than standard ones. They will tighten when your dog pulls. Dog chests can be squeezed on tightening. Experienced trainers and dog handlers use them best. Not sure which chest piece is right for your dog? Our list comprises of the 10 best harnesses for labradors. They are made from sturdy material and have the necessary safety features. Now lets look at all the harnesses one by one. A good labrador harness requires time, effort, and patience to buy. Avoid cheap harnesses that can snap, fall apart, or break. Ensure the chest piece fits well and is not tight. The dog must move with ease wearing the harness. The no-pull harness alone is not enough. Train your labrador retriever for adequate results. Measure the neck and the chest for an accurate fit. Add two inches to the chest measurement in case your lab gains weight. Check the tightness after fastening the clips and buckles. Your two fingers must fit to ensure it is comfortable. If not, then it is too tight. But a harness is comfortable and makes training straightforward. Lab puppies may bite the leash too much initially. However, showing patience will go a long way. Here are a few tips to acclimatize dogs:- Positive reinforcement training is best to accustom your lab. Giving them treats or toys when they follow commands is beneficial. Start slow and small. Place the harness on the floor and let them explore. Let the dog get used to the buckles and leash. You can treat them for being brave and sniffing. Put on the harness if you see progress. Let the dog walk around wearing the harness. Even if it is for a few minutes, treat them. Start with small neighborhood strolls if the dog is confident. Increase the walk durations gradually for smoothness. Irrespective of their style, you need the best harnesses for effective energy management. These athletic dogs are up for everything from trekking to hunting. You need a high-quality harness for your lively pooch. The best harnesses for labradors are:- RabbitGoo is best if you want to control your large lab easily. Kurgo Tru-Fit Smart is for labradors having frequent car rides. Eagloo dog harness provides maximum comfort with its breathable material. Each harness offers unique features and benefits. The final call comes down to your requirements. Harnesses are better suited for walking dogs. Collars are more comfortable and hold the ID. Vets suggest using a harness for many dogs with breathing issues. Should a Labrador wear a harness? Labradors are athletic and sturdy. Having a harness makes them easier to manage. Be it walks, hikes, or treks, they are secured. What size harness for lab puppy is best? You will need at least a 9-inch long collar for a lab puppy. Most labrador retrievers fit into the large harness category. For accuracy, take labrador measurements. How do I stop my Labrador from pulling on the leash? Starting leash training with a harness early is suggested. Teach them self-control and practice attention. Treat them when the position is correct. Do not let pulling reinforce. Should I use a collar or harness for my Lab? Dog Harnesses are considered humane for pets. They give more control than collars. Different harness types also make it easier to choose for your lab pup. What size harness for 8 week lab puppy? The size range for a small harness for an 8-week-old Labrador puppy is: Chest: inches. The critical difference is the degree of dressing up required. This is a moment of personal reflection: do you have a tough time getting out of the house to take your Labrador for a walk? Minimizing the effort required to take your dog walking will ensure that you actually take him out. If your Labrador pulls on his lead, the pressure can quickly start producing irreversible damage. Can Trouble Dogs Even the most humane collars can bother some Labradors. Most new puppies might have trouble accepting a heavy collar. Starting with a light collar at an early age can offset this disadvantage. Some dog trainers can lead-train dogs with collars by building on a foundation of familiarity set by owners who get their dogs to accept light collars early on. This means both products need to be able to cater to different sizes. Most harnesses can house a range of body sizes. But when it comes to collars, your Labrador might start choking on the collar without you realizing it. Adjustable collars can offset this problem. In my opinion, even if you have compassionately trained your Labrador to accept his collar and even go on long walks with the lead attached to the said collar, what happens when your dog gets over-excited? It is quite literally impossible to hold him in position without choking him. Verdict on Dog Collars Dog collars are great to indicate ownership and protect your Labrador from being assumed and treated as a stray. Apart from that, I see no advantage in collars, especially when walking on a lead. So a nuanced approach would be to use a light collar and use a harness whenever you use a lead so that you can sidestep the dangers of lead walking a puppy with a collar. More importantly, your Labrador can pull the lead without hurting himself. More Room for Error If your Labrador puppy wears a collar, you need to follow his growth closely lest the collar begins choking him. Above all, it is more noticeable when your puppy outgrows his harness compared to when he outgrows his collar. In the worst-case scenario, you get to hold back your Lab with sheer force without hurting him as much. Tugging on a collar when your Labrador is trying his best to get away is heartless. That said, you should note that dogs give in more easily when their collar is tugged compared to holding back a harness. The ease, however, is mutually exclusive with kindness in this instance as a submission comes through the pain with a collar. In other words, a harness is something you would want on your pup only on walks. Most well-trained Labradors can go without a harness for short walks, and the harness is left for lead walks. Your Dog Will Take Time to Get Used to It This is a size-driven disadvantage that seems like a logical tradeoff when compared to the burden it offsets. I believe removing cruelty from the equation is well worth the relatively long waiting period. Starting with a light harness with a young Lab puppy is a perfect way to normalize it. Both collars and harnesses are uncomfortable initially, and in the long run, your dog can get used to both. While some trainers make arguments for collars, they are almost exclusively positioned as okay for larger dogs with stronger necks. This makes a harness your only option when out walking. Should a Labrador Wear a Harness? We have already established that harnesses are gentler than collars on Labradors. So, this may have you wondering, should Labradors wear a harness? A Labrador should wear a harness so that you can control him when he gets over-excited on a walk. A harness also allows your dog to keeps his neck safe when you have him on a tight leash. Doing the same with a collar could cause choking, damage to the trachea, or nerve damage. Harness vs. Collar For a Labrador Puppy Harness Advantages Prevents injuries to the neck Allows a lost dog to be identified from a tag Allows more control Easier to wear for tracking Allows room for growth. Conclusions Do I need to put a harness on my Lab puppy? They demand the best food and the most attentive care. As a result, many people believe that you should use a harness rather than a collar on your lab because of how much they tend to pull. Using a leash and collar can help reduce the amount of pulling, but it can be not easy to maintain a firm grip on the leash while walking. A dog harness is also an option. This is the better option for safety, comfort, and training for your Labrador. A comfortable Labrador harness is an important consideration when shopping for one. A good rule of thumb is that the harness should be snug but not squeezing the wearer. As a result, choosing a durable option is critical. For your dog, the features of a Lab harness are more important than the aesthetics. However, if you want to give your dog a dash of color, you can go with a bright harness. A harness is preferable to a collar for a Lab puppy because it is more secure and gives the owner greater control. The ability to lead and control your dog is essential no matter what kind of dog you already have at home, whether a new Labrador puppy or an older dog who has been following you around the house waiting for a walk. To avoid hurting your Labrador, use a harness that distributes the pressure across his upper body instead of his neck. More importantly, your Labrador will not injure himself while pulling the lead. To keep walking your dog from becoming a chore, you must still teach your dog not to pull on the leash. Control Without Cruelty The final drawback of dog collars has reversed. If all else fails, you can use brute force to restrain your dog without causing him undue harm. When your Labrador attempts to flee, it is cruel to force him to wear a collar. Note that dogs give in more quickly when their collar is tugged than when they hold back a harness. As a collar forces a submission, ease is incompatible with kindness in this instance. What is the proper Harness size for a Labrador Retriever? It would help if you got your dog used to wearing a harness as soon as possible. What is the recommended harness size for my Lab puppy? A harness with adjustable straps is preferable because it will last longer when your dog goes through a growth spurt. On the other hand, others believe that this is a risky move. There used to be a fear among dog owners that their pet would be an easy mark for thieves if they knew his name. Many dogs are also microchipped, which makes proving ownership much easier, but most dogs are supervised while outside. Even if your dog is amiable, having his name on his collar is unlikely to put him at risk. Conclusions Collars do serve a purpose in the lives of Labradors, but it is a means of identification, not as a fashion statement. When lab puppies get excited, they may pull on their leashes excessively. Your Labrador must be trained to wear the harness before you can use it safely — you must do this as soon as possible when he is a puppy so that you can control him more effectively. Post navigation.