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I have owned and trained Labradors since .My wife and I have been breeding Labradors since for the sole purpose of improving the Labrador breed as a whole. When I first thought about breeding Labs, one of my early mentors, the late George Kane, told me his definition. Now, more than two decades later, we bring to light that definition with every decision we make. Dogs that we personally own have competed in more than 1, stakes in just the last ten years. Why go to all that time, trouble and expense? Because that Sire or Dam is only as good as their last series or stake they ran in. So, week in and week out, you can find our Sires and Dams competing in various venues all over America and Canada. You always have and always will, set the standard for other breeders to follow. You certainly have the records and so many accomplishments to prove it. I never thought about it that way. Nothing comes easy, and we always take the road less traveled. The good Lord has blessed us with so much. Scooter earned his first advanced title at 10 months of age and his MH title at 21 months and 5 days old. Have you ever gone to a hunt test or field trial, and learned that you had the youngest dog competing in that event? It sure makes you feel very proud and blessed. Simply amazing! Again, we are so blessed. Scooter went on to qualify for four National Field Trial Championships. I am not sure how many Fox Reds can say they qualified for more. We have a support team of multiple awesome professional trainers and great friends who share our unquenchable passion for helping Black Ice Retrievers produce the most intelligent decorated pointing Labradors in the country. We take the responsibility, investment, and extensive research, which all go along with our goal, extremely serious. Sometimes, we have waited close to three years across multiple repeat breedings just to get the exact one pick of the litter we desire. I grew up hunting ducks off of the Missouri and Mississippi Rivers in St. This is where if your lab could not handle multiple marks and blinds, you and your dog were not invited back. We have some of the highest standards in the industry. While other lab kennels breed great grandchildren, grandchildren, and daughters of well accomplished dogs, we only have litters from dogs that are well accomplished themselves. Why do breeders promote puppies from unproven parents? Second, the testing of the dog takes time, effort, and investment. You need to decide for yourself what type of buyer you are and then do your research. This industry is very competitive, and you can buy a lab from just about anywhere, but you get what you pay for. Our best customers are families who simply want the best possible dog for the dollar and take the time and effort to make the best informed buying decision possible. Thank you for visiting our website. We hope you enjoy browsing through all the details of our proven brand. If you have any questions or comments, please feel free to reach out to us. Our contact information can be found on the Contact page. May God Bless you and your families. God Bless! You can have confidence your new puppy from Southern Flight Retrievers will have all the drive you are needing in your 4 legged hunting companion for those long retrieves in field trial events or in muddy grass marshes and waterways. Then after the successful hunt, field trial event, or just a daily walk in the great outdoors your furry companion will be ready to curl up for an evening by your side, ready to do it all again the next day. Working Labrador Retrievers We raise working labrador retrievers, not show labradors This means our puppies are bred to be very trainable, very athletic, with strong beautiful body builds for endurance when hunting or competing out in the fields, marshes or waterways. This is made possible by carefully selecting what will be our future brood Bitches. We make sure the mother of your future puppy is of strong character, lots of natural retrieving drive, highly trainable, and a calm, not hyper temperament. Sires have a great record of offspring performing well. All the male labs we use are out of very strong Field Trial and Hunt Test Pedigrees that have been carefully selected for each breeding to produce the healthiest and highly trainable puppies. Why Buy a Lab Puppy From Southern Retrievers Do you want the confidence in knowing your puppy came from a reputable breeder that has done the best they could to provide you with a very well bred, and guaranteed healthy puppy? Do you want the assurance you can contact the breeder anytime for advice, tips, and questions? These are the questions we strive to answer and fulfill to the best of our ability for each and every one of our clients, whether a new client or a returning client for multiple puppies. We want to keep in touch with you as our client to see your puppy grow into a beautiful dog with many achievements. You are welcome to have a look at them to see what your future puppy from Southern Flight Retrievers could look like. Take a look at the testimonials we have received. Being by your side is about the best place she likes to be. She presents three Field Champions in her pedigree along with 16 Master Hunters. Her loving personality and strong desire to retrieve makes her the perfect package. Training is her favorite pass time, you ask her and consider it accomplished. She is the whole package, loving companion and loyal hunting buddy. Her personality will put a smile on your face. Happy, yes just look at her, she is definitely a very happy smart and loving gal. She has a very strong pedigree presenting 3 National Field Champions and 15 Field Champions in her 4 generation pedigree. She is a beautiful muscular and rock solid 52 pound black female. She is the total package of pure energy and personality. She can outrun anyone and her love of retrieving is pure and always front and center. She taught her well, a strong hunting partner and a loyal family companion who loves with her whole heart. She is so very smart, loves training the young gals at Bailiwick. She has a very strong pedigree, presenting in her four generation 5 National Field Champions. She has a very loving personality and a strong desire to please. Bree is very smart, tell her once what you would like and consider it done, totally connected at all times. She is a devoted companion who loves with her whole heart. At the end of the day she will be right by your side. Her pedigree presents 5 National Field Champions, with her grandfather…. She came into this world dreaming of ducks and duck ponds. She is willing to do whatever you ask of her. Retrieving or just being by your side, she is happy and willing, totally devoted. Her eyes show her personality. Her love is retrieving, if you have the time she has the energy. She presents two National Field Champions in her pedigree…. She loves with her whole heart and lives life to the maximum. Her happy personality sets her apart. Watch her for five minutes and you will have a smile on your face. She is a very smart loving and athletic gal. He is a devoted hunting companion and a loving family member. His personality will put a smile on your face. By your side is his favorite place and spending the day hunting and retrieving, is the icing on the cake. He has a strong desire to please, ask him and consider it done. This is is a very strong breeding presenting 14 National Field Champions in their combined pedigrees. She is a muscular rock solid 52 pound female of pure energy. She can outrun anyone and her love of retrieving is pure and always front and center. She is definitely her mother's Jet daughter. She taught her well, she is a strong hunting partner and a loyal family companion who loves with her whole heart. She trains the young ones around Bailiwick, she is so very smart. Spend one minute with her and it is obvious, she is "Over the Top", she truly has it all. Retrieve, yes she loves retrieving, ask her and you shall receive. She is a devoted companion who loves with her whole heart, will work all day, not a problem with her. At the end of a long day she is not hard to find, she will be right at your side. This beautiful gal was born dreaming if ducks and duck ponds. Radley is Mr. Personality, he will put a smile on your face. We can retrieve all day or we can just visit and be cool, either way not a problem for Radley. He is truly a pleasure to train, so smart just tell him once and he has it down pat!!!!! This is a very strong breeding.Her love is retrieving, if you have the time she has the energy. She is dedicated, loving and very smart. Training her is a pleasure. What a loving personality, she will put a smile on your face. This is a very strong breeding. Stella presents three National Champions in her pedigree

How does the Labradoodle growth chart work? The following numbers are estimates based on the litter of a Labrador Retriever crossed with a standard Poodle. If your pup's Poodle parent is a toy size, then they are likely to be significantly smaller than these estimates. Their health is what matters most, so if you have questions or concerns about your puppy's development, reach out to your veterinarian. At what age is a Labradoodle fully grown? Labradoodles typically need 12 to 18 months to reach their full size, especially if their parents were on the heavier side of the average weight spectrum. Large breeds grow slower and take longer to reach their full size compared to small and medium-sized dog breeds, which usually reach maturity within nine to 11 months. How big should a 6-month-old Labradoodle be? A 6-month-old Labradoodle may weigh anywhere between 40 and 55 pounds. As a general rule, male Labradoodles weigh more than their female counterparts. In terms of height, a 6-month-old Labradoodle puppy will stand around 14 to 18 inches tall at the shoulders, but this varies based on their genetic makeup. Pro Tip: Download our new puppy checklist for tips on how to set up a vaccination schedule, essential pet care supplies, and more. How much bigger will my Labradoodle get? There are a few ways you can estimate how much more your Labradoodle may grow. Most Labradoodles need anywhere from 12 to 18 months to reach their full size. If your pup is younger than a year old, they are likely still growing. Refer to our Labradoodle weight chart to estimate how many more pounds they might put on as they mature into adulthood. If they look oversized compared to their limbs, then they're probably still filling out. Oversized paws are a classic puppy feature indicating that your pup still has more growth underway. Lastly, if you purchased your puppy from a breeder, you can contact them about your Labradoodle's weight. Alhough the breed varies greatly in size, knowing the weight of your puppy's parents and those of previous litters can help you predict your Labradoodle's adult size. What is the size of a full-grown Labradoodle? As a hybrid dog breed, Labradoodles vary significantly in size based on their geneology. Per Agape Labradoodles , adult Labradoodles typically weigh over 45 pounds, with some Labradoodles weighing as much as pounds. However, most Labradoodles will weigh between 50 and 90 pounds. In [terms of height], Labradoodles stand 21 to 24 inches tall when measured from paw to shoulder, or approximately two feet excluding their neck and crown of the head. How do I make sure my Labradoodle is healthy? Our Labradoodle puppies are important, cherished family members who we want the best for. One of the best ways to help your Labradoodle thrive is by taking them to regular veterinary appointments to have them routinely checked out and evaluated. Prevention is always better than treatment, and regular veterinary exams provide your veterinarian with the opportunity to screen your Labradoodle for disease. Your puppy will need to see the veterinarian several times in their first six months of life for core vaccinations against things like Rabies, and then at least once a year as an adult for annual health check-ups. Like their parents, Labradoodles are also more susceptible to hip dysplasia , a common orthopedic condition that occurs when the hip joint forms improperly. Hip dysplasia can lead to pain in their back legs, impaired mobility, and even lameness if not treated - fortunately, the condition is treatable with surgery. When over 20, pet parents were surveyed, only .As loving pet parents, it can be devastating to think that our four-legged friend could develop a painful disease that requires expensive treatment. This is where pet insurance comes in. Most pet parents opt for accident and illness pet insurance plans as they cover both injuries and most illnesses, such as hip dysplasia or eye diseases. Pet wellness plans can be added to your insurance coverage to help you pay for preventive veterinary care, like your regular vet exams, x-rays , dental cleanings , vaccinations, and more. Like humans, dogs are living longer, which creates an even bigger need for excellent veterinary care so that our dogs can live their happiest and healthiest lives. Pet insurance helps alleviate the financial strain that's often caused by vet visit costs. If your Labradoodle puppy gets sick or hurt, you and your veterinarian can work together to provide your pup with the best treatment plan - without worrying about how much it might cost. Key Takeaways Adult Labradoodles weigh pounds on average. The parent Poodle breed has toy and standard size variations that impact the size of the offspring, along with other genetic factors. Most Labradoodles grow until months of age. The breed is known for several congenital health disorders, and is especially prone to hip dysplasia. Pet insurance can protect your puppy and provide a financial safety net for vet costs throughout their life. Do you want to find the best pet insurance? Let's analyze your pet's breed, age, and location to find the right coverage and the best savings. Analyze My Pet About Pawlicy Advisor The pet insurance marketplace endorsed by veterinarians, at Pawlicy Advisor we make buying the best pet insurance easier. It takes traits from both breeds, and new puppy owners will quickly see this combination was chosen intentionally. The Labrador retriever is an intelligent, loyal breed with an excellent temperament for nearly any family or living situation. Unfortunately, these dogs also shed a lot, which can be a hassle. It also makes a Labrador a poor choice for public social situations, such as outdoor dining at dog-friendly patios. Instead, the coat traps dirt, allergens, loose hair and other debris inside it. This means less shedding but also means daily brushing is required. The poodle is also an intelligent breed that makes a perfect addition to most homes since it was bred to be a companion animal. Any puppy is a lifelong commitment. Understanding what to expect at every life stage will help you prepare to give your cute little puppy a long, prosperous, happy life. A normal-sized labradoodle will live an average of 12 to 14 years. Smaller labradoodles resulting from a miniature or toy poodle crossbreed will generally live a little longer. However, you must remember that this lifespan is only an average. There are plenty of labradoodles who live into their late teens. A healthy diet, regular exercise and periodic vet visits are crucial to your labradoodle puppy living a long, healthy life. These main life stages include puppyhood, adolescence, adulthood, middle-aged and senior. Each life stage is discussed in more detail below. Puppyhood If you adopt a labradoodle puppy, this will be the first stage you get to witness. A labradoodle puppy will remain in this life stage from birth until five or six months. Birth to 7 Weeks From birth until about seven weeks of age, labradoodle puppies stay close to their mother. They spend all their time eating, sleeping, growing and cuddling with their littermates. As they get closer to seven weeks of age, they may begin exploring their world a little. Around seven weeks of age, a labradoodle puppy will start becoming more interested in people. This is also when it begins forming bonds with you and other humans in the home or family. These adorable puppies will become more playful and curious at about eight weeks old. Instead, you want to create only positive experiences during this time to ensure it grows into a secure young adult dog. This is the perfect time to start positive training techniques. Teaching your labradoodle puppy about action and reward now will benefit its lifelong training. During this stage of puppy development, socialization is crucial. Now is the perfect time to take it to new places, introduce it to new people and provide it with new experiences. The most important part of this stage of puppy development is that your pup becomes a free and independent thinker. With its curiosity at an all-time high, this is the perfect time to bring your new companion everywhere. Socialization and bonding are other vital aspects of this stage of puppy development. Pet owners will find their puppy wants to be with them all the time and may become mildly anxious when separated from them. Most of its time will be spent eating, sleeping or getting into trouble. Your growing canine should have lost its baby teeth, have all its adult teeth and be out of the biting stage it may have had during puppyhood. Thanks to the Labrador genes, your labradoodle will always love to chew. You can stop destructive chewing behaviors by providing a chew toy or two or 20 to keep it occupied. It may become territorial, but regular socialization can help ease these issues. Your labradoodle will also begin showing quite a bit of strength, so continuing its training during this time is crucial. Acting out, wandering and even behaving aggressively are all normal during this time. Adulthood For a labradoodle, adulthood starts somewhere between two or three years of age and lasts until around its seventh birthday. During adulthood, labradoodles are at their prime. Their adult coat will grow in, which may be thicker or denser than their puppy coat. This breed is very intelligent and easy to train, so if you want to keep teaching it new tricks, you can. Weight Management Your labradoodle will reach its adult size between two and three years old. They can tell you if your dog is a normal size or needs diet and exercise. Middle-Aged Your doodle puppy will turn middle-aged around seven years old. This life stage is relatively brief and only lasts until the dog turns nine or .During middle age, most dogs are still active and overall healthy. It may exercise less and sleep a little more as it transitions between adulthood and its golden years. A middle-aged dog may begin to develop some health problems, especially as it gets closer to its senior years. The primary issues of concern are obesity, joints and teeth. The teeth and joints will become especially vulnerable during this stage, so you must take your dog for regular teeth cleaning and wellness visits. In addition, your vet may recommend supplements to protect the joints. Extra weight will also place unnecessary additional stress on the joints and heart of your dog. Senior Your dog will officially be considered a senior from around nine to 10 years of age until the end of its life. During their golden years, your labradoodle will require extra care and attention. Health problems are most likely to occur during these years, and your vet may suggest two annual well visits instead of only one. After 10 years of age, your dog will likely encounter issues staying warm. You might consider a heating blanket in their bed, keeping the house slightly warmer during winter or providing extra blankets to snuggle under. Your dog may also have problems with its eyesight. The most common issue for senior labradoodles is their joints, which tend to ache as they get older. In addition, they may have mobility problems caused by sore and stiff joints. For example, consider a ramp to help it get into the car or up your porch steps. Developing one or more health problems could mean a shorter lifespan for your labradoodle. A few of the most common health problems affecting labradoodle puppies or adults include: Allergies usually to food Ear infections which can lead to hearing loss after repeat infections Epilepsy.

There are so many breeds to choose from; how do you know which one is right for you and your family? Boxers are a medium-sized dog that were originally bred to be guard dogs. Nowadays though, they make ideal family pets as long as you can keep up with all that energy! Generally, boxers have three main colors; white, fawn or brindle. Brindle coloring is a combination of two colors that express themselves as a pattern in the fur. Usually one of the colors is beige or brown and the pattern can be long stripes along the back or shorter, more disturbed stripes. Brindle Boxers are one of the most popular coloring there are, however, the colors and patterns of brindle Boxers can vary dramatically. There is, however, a rarer reverse brindle coloring with a dark background and lighter markings. It is sometimes referred to as an inverted brindle boxer. Sealed Brindle Boxer Now this is the rarest coloring for a Boxer out of them all. They appear black because their black stripes are sealed shut so you can see hardly any fawn at all. Some people try to sell these Boxers as having a black coat but that is not true. It is impossible for Boxers to have a true black coat; those that appear black are actually brindle with very thick, close set black stripes. Flashy Brindle Boxer Boxers often have a white underbelly and white feet. Sometimes the markings go up the neck and onto the face too. This is known as flash. However, white Boxers are not. Brindle Boxers are not rare, they are one of the three standard coloring for the Boxer breed. Certain types of markings and coloring are more rare than others though, like the sealed brindle. Brindle Boxers are prone to certain health problems Like all purebred dogs, there are some health conditions that Boxers are more prone to. To help reduce the risk of your puppy developing these conditions you should always buy from an AKC compliant breeder. They have to adhere to much higher standards than most and will undergo the necessary tests of the parent dogs to help reduce the chances of medical issues in the future. AKC registered breeders will usually cost more than private breeders but they come with more peace of mind about the genetics and the treatment of the parent dogs. Also, there are some pet insurance companies that focus on providing the best insurance for a specific breed, meaning they can cater to the likely health problems of that breed of dog. Alternatively, you could look at the American Boxer Club website. They have a specific page all about breeder referrals. There are even some organizations that specifically re-home Boxers! Wherever you go looking, make sure you have a list of questions you want to ask the breeder about how the dogs have been cared for, tests they may have had etc. If you need a hand coming up with all the appropriate questions you should check out this resource. How do you know if a Boxer is the right dog breed for your lifestyle and situation? Well, there are some common characteristics that most Boxers share which can help you get an idea of what they might be like. What is a Boxer? You will recognize the Boxer by its tough, muscled exterior, wrinkled expression, and high energy antics. But, did you know that Boxers are sweet-tempered family dogs? They are protective and loyal and love to follow their owners everywhere. This affection pup will greet you with excited, slobbery kisses! Boxers are a medium to large purebred dog that comes from Germany. Boxers have smooth, short coats that are typically fawn, brindle, or white. Their faces often have a black mask with a few white markings. Boxers are energetic and need daily exercise, including fetch, games, and long walks. Boxer puppies take a few years to fully mature, so their puppy energy is endless for around three years. Remember to limit treats with Boxers and Boxer mixes, as this can cause obesity. Boxers are prone to health issues, including hip dysplasia, but oftentimes these health concerns are lessened with a crossbreed dog. Feeding your Boxer high-quality dog food, along with daily exercise, can help your pup reach a lifespan of years. Your Boxer mix will inherit many of the Boxer traits in addition to the other parent dog breed. If you are looking to be a dog owner of a Boxer mix, you will need to be prepared for a medium to large sized dog full of playful energy. Check out 35 of the most lovable Boxer mixes below. They are playful, energetic, and intelligent family pets. Boxadors tend to have a mix of colors on their coat and inherit short, shiny coats. They are adorably devoted to their owners. If you are an active, outdoorsy dog owner, this mix might be perfect for you! They are protective and loyal but need early socialization to feel comfortable around other dogs and strangers. With training and a dose of love and tender care, Pitbull Boxer mixes make good family pets. Shepherd Boxers are devoted to their owners and take their watchdog role seriously. Boxer Shepherds inherit short, dense coats, short, floppy ears with a long body and straight tail. They will range in size depending on the Poodle parent. Their coats will range in colors and usually are curly or wavy. They are outdoor adventure seekers, always ready to jump in the puddles or take a muddy hike. Also known as the Bull Boxer, these dogs are suited for indoor living, so there is no need for a large yard. They look like a mix of their parents, with short coats that are easy to groom. Expect this pup to follow you everywhere you go! They have short, easy-to-groom coats that range in colors. Many Boxskys inherited the light blue eyes from their Husky parent. They are known for being affectionate and goofy but also have a protective side. They are moderate to high shedding dogs and their sizes may range from pounds. Boxer Mastiff AKA Boxmas Parent Breeds: Mastiff and Boxer These large dogs may look intimidating, but they possess the sweetest souls and serve as excellent protectors and watchdogs for your family. They are larger than a Boxer but less high-energy. They still need a lot of space, so keep that in mind before choosing a Boxmas. This mellow tempered family dog inherits the lovable devotion from both parents and is known as gentle giants. They have large floppy ears, big brown eyes, and short coats of different colors. They will shed but are easy to groom. Picture the tough build of the Boxer but in a more medium-sized body. They are cute and make the ideal family pet for Boxer lovers needing a smaller dog. They are sweet-tempered, calm, and make great family pets. Because the parent breeds look similar, you can expect your Bulloxer to have a strong, square jaw, floppy ears, and a short muzzle. If properly trained, these dogs can be extremely sweet. This large breed dog excels in agility training and loves to please their owners. They might resemble either parent breed, with either a short dark coat or a double coat that is tan in color. They are mild to moderate shedders, and their coats will range in color. This large dog is athletic and strong with a medium coat length that is easy to groom. They may look like either parent breed which means they will be beautiful! They will inherit a short coat that is usually tan, brown, or brindle and are only light shedders. Also known as a Poxer, these dogs love to cuddle! They are protective pups and love to watch over their family. Keep in mind that they are high energy and need lots of exercise. This small pup tends to resemble a fuller stockier Chihuahua. They may need lots of socialization to feel comfortable around strangers, but they sure will be devoted to their owners. These pups are full of affection and energy. They are highly intelligent but come from working dog parents who need energetic tasks to not get bored. Despite their large build, they inherit a playful and protective temperament. Their coats are short and fine and typically black, brown, or white. They are highly intelligent and alert. They are loving pups and do well with families. Saint Boxers will inherit a short, thick, moderately shedding coat that is usually brown or fawn with white markings and a black mask around their eyes. They are suited to homes with outdoor space to run and play. They have a short, low-shedding coat that ranges in colors and typically has a square muzzle. They tend to have a stubborn streak and a dominant nature. They are large, tall dogs with a smooth coat that moderately sheds. They are protective dogs and need proper socialization to feel comfortable around strangers. Expect a short, dense coat that is either blue or brindle in color. They will need good training and exercise and are recommended for experienced owners. They make great family pets but need proper socialization around other dogs and young children. Their coat is minimally shedding and short in length. They have short to medium coats that vary in color and usually only shed with the change in seasons. They will have short muzzles and flat faces and only need mild amounts of exercise. They are medium in size, but they are bursting with energy and need lots of exercise. Their short coats are easy to maintain. They are known for having an affectionate and cheerful disposition. They are protective family dogs but need lots of exercise and attention. They have short coats that are black or white in color and adorable floppy ears. While they are good family dogs, they can be distrustful of strangers. They are large dogs but more slender than purebred Boxers. They have short coats that rarely shed and sweet, obedient temperaments. They will bark excessively to demand attention. They make great family dogs and are social and outgoing in nature. The Schnoxer or BoxSchnauz will look similar to their Schnauzer parent and will need regular brushing and grooming. More Boxer mixes to love! If you still are uncertain, check out these additional Boxer mixes: Bullmastiff Boxer mix. Chopped carrots or celery make great little healthy treats. Your vet can help you develop a care routine. Boxadors love to eat and will rapidly gain weight if they are allowed to free feed. Pick a high quality dog food and stick to a feeding schedule; two feedings per day could be ideal to keep this pooch happy. They also need an exercise schedule. A 30 minute hike, walk, or game of fetch, plus an hour of active running around a yard will help burn off pent up energy. Check their ears for debris and pests daily and clean them as recommended by your vet. Keeping them clean and dry is the best way to avoid doctor visits. If your dog develops a pungent aroma or is scratching their ears excessively, they may have an ear infection and will require a vet exam. They should not be clicking against the floor. Your groomer can help with this. You should brush their teeth a minimum of three times a week. Clean your dogs eyes as you would your own. You can use a cloth or your fingers to wipe away discharge or debris that collects in the corners. Boxador Feeding An ideal Boxador diet should be formulated for an active, medium- to large-sized breed. Limit their amount of treats, as well. The main colors of Boxadors are; black, brown, brindle, and white. Rarely solid, their coats typically have a blend of two or more colors. Luckily, their coats are very easy to groom. A good brushing per week will probably do. They may self groom and are considered a pretty clean dog. Always teach children how to approach and touch dogs, and always supervise any interactions between dogs and young children to prevent any tail pulling or biting on the part of either party. No dog should ever be left unsupervised with a child. Learn more about this pup by reading about their parent breeds, the Boxer and Labrador Retriever. Boxador Rescue Groups It may be hard to find a breed specific rescue for Boxadors because they are a mixed breed. However, you may want to try Boxer or Labrador Retriever breed specific rescues, as they often care for mixes, as well. Here are some rescues you can try:. Should a Boxer Mix take after their Boxer parent, they will be a playful, energetic, and friendly dog that loves their family and loves being active with them. Boxers are known for their energetic and exuberant personalities. They bond closely with their families, tend to have a cheerful disposition, and also tend to get along well with children, other dogs, and other pets. Although they are friendly dogs, they do have the instinct to protect their families. If the other parent breed has similar traits, then you should be able to expect a similar temperament in a Boxer Mix. Asking the breeder about the other parent breed in the mix is a good start. You can also meet the mother dog to get a feel for her temperament and to see what behavior she is modeling for her puppies. Although the breeder should be socializing puppies while they have them, it is up to you to continue training and socializing a puppy once you get them home. Boxers are moderately adaptable dogs. Because of their energy, they tend to do better in homes with yards where they can run. But, they can adapt to apartments as long as they get exercise and mental stimulation throughout the day. Although all dogs are sensitive to heat, the Boxer is even more so because of their short snout. And, because they bond so closely with their families, they do not like to be left alone for long periods of time. The other parent breed could introduce some traits that could affect the adaptability of a Boxer Mix, so you do want to ask the breeder about them. Knowing more about the other parent breed will help you get a better idea of what range of potential characteristics to expect. Are mixed-breed dogs healthier than purebred dogs? A Boxer Mix can inherit any combination of the potential health issues common to one or both of their parent breeds. Or, they could inherit none of them. From the Boxer side, potential health conditions include degenerative myelopathy, thyroid deficiency, hip dysplasia, and heart conditions. Boxers also tend to have sensitive digestive systems, which often makes them gassy. As a brachycephalic dog, they will also snort and snore. Because they are a barrel-chested breed, they are also at a higher risk for bloat in dogs. This can become dangerous, especially if the stomach flips, so you want to make sure you reduce the risk when you can and know the symptoms so you can get help as soon as possible. Since reputable breeders screen their dogs to avoid passing issues on to puppies, they should be able to answer your questions. Despite their high energy, Boxers are highly trainable dogs that can be a good fit for owners of any experience level. Because they are intelligent, they pick up on things quickly and can get bored easily. But, they are eager to please their owners and tend to respond well to training. The other parent breed could make a Boxer Mix even easier to train or more difficult to train. You want to make sure you ask the breeder about the other parent breed so you know what range of trainability to expect. A Boxer Mix can end up with a coat similar to one of their parents or a coat that is a combination of both of them. Monthly nail trims are usually enough to keep nails from growing too long. Ears should be dry, clean, and free of debris or pests. Unfortunately, many dog owners overlook dental care, which is why gum disease is one of the most common health issues in dogs. The Boxer is a high-energy dog breed. Daily walks plus playtime and other activities should be enough for this dog. However, they will likely be up for more activity if you are. If the other parent breed is also a high-energy dog breed, then you can expect a Boxer Mix to also be a high-energy dog. However, this is a potential range, so you will still need to be prepared to deal with a Boxer Mix that is high-energy. A Boxer usually stands inches tall and weighs pounds. The other parent breed can affect this, especially if they are the mother, so you do want to ask about them. A Boxer generally lives for years. Although the other parent breed may affect this slightly, you can likely expect a similar life span in a Boxer Mix. 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Fluffy vs. Learn more. This breed is so famous for being a charming member of the family. His piercing brown eyes, friendly face, and striking rich coat make him insanely beautiful. When you are around him, you cannot resist the temptation of running your fingers over his fluffy coat. He will fill your life with so much joy that you never imagined possible. When choosing a puppy, you might encounter both the fluffy and non-fluffy types. Granted, the first type is the most abundant but it is not uncommon to have a non-fluffy pooch as well. Which one should you go for and why? To keep you informed, we will highlight what you should expect from both fluffy and non-fluffy Golden retriever puppies. Their coats feature soft, fluffy hair. However, as they reach three months of age, you will notice the coat taking on the appearance of long hair. This begins at the tail where a few strands of long hair will grow over the soft fluffy hair of the puppyhood stage. The feathers start at the tail then grow on the legs and stomach area. Gradually, the rest of the areas will grow flat, long locks with the new hair being longer and darker than light puppy fur. Instead of the puppy shedding his fur, the adult hair often grows on top of the fluff. Even as the adulthood hair catches on, some Goldens will still have fur variations on their skin. If you have visited a rescue or a breeding center, you have probably noticed this. Ending up with a non-fluffy goldie can be really frustrating, especially if you know that Golden retriever puppies should have fluffy coats when they are young. So what can cause a Golden retriever puppy to lack the fluff? Here are a few suggestions. Genetics Genetics plays out a lot in the making of the puppy. Coat length is a hereditary issue. To know if the appearance of the coat is a result of genetics, talk to the breeder and find out if the parents had the same coat. If one of the parents had the same coat or something close when they were little, you definitely have nothing to worry about. Some are long-haired while others are short-haired. The common short-haired variety includes field-bred golden retrievers. Bred to work in the field and hunt, this type has relatively short hair than his counterparts. By now, the hairs are preparing to shoot and so you cannot judge the future based on what you see now. Wait until he turns months of age to observe what is going on before making a conclusive judgment. Typically, a growing puppy needs a perfect balance of fats, proteins, vegetables, and fatty oils to be in top shape. The only way to rule this one out is to visit the vet. Health Issues Last but not least, a non-fluffy Golden retriever puppy may be suffering from health issues that directly impact his coat health. If your pup shows any signs of sickness including decreased appetite, restlessness, stress, anxiety, diarrhea, vomiting, or just being in bad mood for long periods of time, let him be checked. But before you do, you have to know what to expect when it comes to caring for the coat lest you get confused and overwhelmed. Ideally, you want to start grooming your ball of fluff as a puppy. The earlier you start teaching him about grooming, the easier things will be for you because the dog will get used to it early. First things first, a golden retriever should not be shaved. If you shave him, he runs a chance of freezing in winter and suffering a heat stroke during summer. To be safe, simply trim the hairs if they grow too long but really, you may not even need to trim anything. Just locate any long hairs and clip them a bit for a good look. Perhaps the only advisable thing would be to brush the coat once or twice a week to keep it neat and keep any loose hairs away from your surfaces. Brushing allows the body to release its natural oils and makes the coat shiny and cute. A slicker brush will get the job done to perfection. It has a wide surface filled with pins and will help your work through loose hair and mats. What about a Non-Fluffy Coat? Some people consider non-fluffy golden retriever puppies to be less attractive compared to their fluffy counterparts. While that may be true to a certain extent, having a non-fluffy type may be a blessing in disguise. This is because you have less hair to worry about. This means fewer grooming sessions for you as well. The best grooming tool for a non-fluffy golden retriever is the bristle brush. It is less intense and is ideal for your pup. A weekly brushing schedule should do the job. At this stage, expect the puppy to play with the bristle brush and chew it up. That is the whole process of getting him used to it. After a few sessions, he will be comfortable with grooming and will give you an easy time. Final Thoughts Wondering whether to buy a fluffy or non-fluffy golden retriever? Both options are good-looking dogs with the same incredible temperament of the breed. Caring for the coats is slightly different as well as looks but either way, you will have a great canine friend in your golden retriever. Related Posts:. However, like most breeds, they can come with some health concerns and grooming needs you must keep in mind. While many coat issues are a simple fix, this can be a sign of deeper issues that need addressed such as poor nutrition. Your Golden Is Not the Right Age One thing many forget when adding a golden retriever to their family is that their coat will go through several phases. The coat that your puppy arrives to you with will not be the exact same texture as what they grow older with. If your dog is not yet reaching that fluffy golden retriever coat you were hoping for, it may not be time for them to yet. However, this is very normal, and a puppy coat will be much different than the coat later in life. You should focus more on training your pup and teaching good grooming habits at this stage. This feathering begins at the tail and moves upward to the head, while hair begins to darken in color. This is a good idea of what your adult dog will look like. It is important to note that some golden retrievers will take longer to reach their adult coat. After the three year mark, if your dog still does not have a fluffy coat or you notice any coat changes, this is when you should become concerned. If your dog has not yet reached adulthood, their coat is not a major concern and patience is key! As a pet owner, it can be challenging to know exactly what your pet needs and golden retrievers have a fairly high maintenance coat. You will want to offer your pet regular coat care as part of your daily routine. This should start as soon as you bring your puppy home, even before they truly need it. This will establish good grooming techniques and ensure that your dog is used to regular brushing. Removes dead skin cells which will cut down on the levels of dander your pet has. Removing excess dead hairs will avoid matting and keep hair detangled. Start with a softer brush for puppies and get a sturdier brush as your dog ages to remove unwanted dead hairs. Routine Bathing Will Keep Your Golden Fluffy Another important part of raising any dog but especially golden retriever is to routinely bathe your pet. This will help ensure that the coat remains supple and free of any debris. Dogs that have longer coats can easily become entangled with small twigs, burrs, and dirt which are hard to remove without regular bathing. Before bathing your golden retriever, remove any notable sticks or debris. You will want to find a shampoo that works well for the breed, which you can often ask a vet for assistance with. You should only bathe your dog as needed, and never more than a couple of times per week. If your dog is particularly hard to bathe or brush, you may want to take it to a professional groomer. This can also help if your dog has gotten matted or knots that you cannot deal with on your own. Overall, proper coat care is the first step in creating a fluffy coat. Some golden retrievers will simply not have as fluffy coats as others, which is something you cannot necessarily change. If your notice that your puppy grows a less fluffy coat and wavier coat, this may just be their genetics. The first step to determining if your dog simply does not have a fluffy coat is to consult your breeder. Often puppies of two golden retrievers that have wavy hair will also have wavier hair. If your puppy has a coat that resembles the parents, that probably means they too will have a wavy coat. If you have rescued or adopted the dog, this can clearly be a bigger challenge. However, it is simply put that not all golden retrievers will be fluffy, and this should not be a concern unless a major coat change is noticed. There is truly no way that you can alter a genetically based hair texture. Poor Diet and Nutrition One of the biggest reasons for a change in coat in an adult golden retriever is a lack of nutrition. This is also one reason why some goldens do not grow silky, shiny coats as they are not getting the nutrients needed. To ensure that your dog has a fluffy coat, you will want to guarantee they get the nutrients they need. Some signs of poor nutrition that can be noted from the coat alone are excessive shedding, bald patches or extreme loss of hair, dry hair, dandruff, and more. If you notice any of these signs, you will want to seek better quality nutrition for your pet. This can often be done on your own, but a vet can always point you in a proper direction. This will change as your dog grows older and you will want to update foods accordingly. Choose a higher quality food that has better ingredients. Unfortunately, better foods often come with a higher price tag but can be very beneficial to your dog. Try adding supplements to promote hair growth and quality. Omega-3 can be added and will help with coat quality immensely. This should be brought up at your next vet visit for more exact dosages. Environmental Changes Impact Coat Health If you have recently made a major move and brought your pet along or have had a recent change in seasons, this can have an effect. Dryer weather can often lead to a less supple coat. If you have noticed an increase in dry weather in your area, this could be the culprit. Offering more frequent bathing with a higher quality, moisturizing shampoo can also help immensely. If you live in an area that is dry often, you may want to combine these suggestions and speak to a vet for more options on what you can do for your pup. Unknown Health Concerns If you ever notice a change in coat in addition to a change in behavior or overall health, this can be a concern. While this could be a simple issue, it could also be something that needs immediate care. Beyond ensuring that your dog has a healthy coat, a vet can do screenings to find deeper issues. This will help guarantee your dog has a long, healthy life. Proper nutrition and quality routine care will almost guarantee your dog has a fluffy, soft, and silky coat. Share this:.

We're here to help! We firmly believe that if you are going to do something in life, do it the right way and do it as best as you can. We view our puppies as extensions of our family. The adoption process is an opportunity to blend our family and yours, and we keep in touch with many of our puppies' families over the years. Our advanced health testing, cutting-edge socialization, and continual customer support provide the best experience possible for families who adopt our golden retrievers. We know purchasing a puppy is a huge decision in your life, and we invite you to join us. We believe in good health. Many breeders focus on a "show" quality dog or a certain look. At Summer's Goldens, we focus on life-long family companions. While we carry many Champion bloodlines, we use careful genetic selection to lower the COI Coefficient Of Inbreeding of our dogs and improve the breed. Lower COI contributes to better long-term health and benefits golden retrievers as a whole. We don't breed just for today; we breed with the future in mind to have healthy, happy golden retrievers for decades to come. We follow the health-testing guidelines of the American Kennel Club and the Golden Retriever Club of America by examining our adult dogs' hips, elbows, eyes, and heart. We only want the finest goldens to become mothers and fathers. We also do genetic testing through Embark , one of the most reputable and thorough genetic companies. By pairing healthy, genetically diverse parents, we provide the best possible conditions for puppies to live long and healthy lives. This is especially important for purebred dogs like golden retrievers. Not only do we focus on health, but we also take extra care to socialize our puppies well. We strive to cultivate friendly personality traits in our Golden Retriever Puppies for sale. High-quality socialization during the first two months of a puppy's life is one of the most critical components of its lifelong development. Socialization provides a strong foundation for emotionally healthy, well-adjusted adult dogs. This is easy to claim but hard to do. There simply is no replacement for quality time spent with puppies. We follow the lead of Dr. Carmen L. Battaglia and start with early neurological stimulation ENS when the puppies are just three days old. We continue thorough socialization until the puppies leave us. This includes exposing our puppies to a variety of different surfaces to walk on; human touch all over their bodies; temperature changes; different sounds like fireworks, doorbells, cats meowing, and car engines; children; baths and nail trims, and more. We want our puppies to be more than just physically healthy; we want them to be mentally and emotionally ready for their future families. You are welcome to read our reviews on Google and Facebook , as well as the Testimonials on our site. Our goal is to improve the breed of golden retrievers and provide outstanding companions for families. Contact us today and experience joy through our golden retrievers! What can you expect when you pick up your puppy? All of our puppies receive plenty of love and attention. We include a care package with every puppy to help you get started on the right paw. It includes the puppy's baby photos, a blanket with the mother's scent, toys, a bag of the puppy's current food, and more to help your puppy transition as smoothly as possible. We offer lifelong support for every puppy and welcome families' questions and updates. We feel responsible for our puppies and want them to have loving homes their entire lives. We ask potential families to complete the Puppy Application on our website. We allow families to choose their puppy based on the order of deposits received. All deposits are non-refundable unless we do not have a puppy for you. Please contact Marta with any questions! Where do our Golden Retrievers live? Check out the state pages devoted to each location where our Golden Retriever adopters live in the Midwest. Breeders VS. The sad truth is that many pet store purchased pups actually come from puppy mills. Basically, there is zero authenticity with pet stores. When it comes to adopting any animal from a pet store, there is an increased risk of unforeseen health or genetic problems. You also cultivate a life-long relationship with the breeder, meaning support is available to you anytime you may need it. With My Golden Retriever Puppies , you have the option to come and visit both the puppy and the breeder in person! Golden Retrievers are an adaptable breed, meaning they are better at adapting to seasonal changes and various types of climate than certain other breeds. Goldens sport a double-coat, which ensures that these sweet pups are able to tolerate slightly colder temperatures than their friends from other breeds. Your pup deserves better than that, which is why here at My Golden Retriever Puppies , we ensure high-quality care is taken of your pet at all times. We even have all types of golden retrievers for sale! At My Golden Retriever Puppies, we pride ourselves on our golden retriever price being fair and affordable for high quality puppies. Location Information for Indiana Customers Our home office is located in Ohio, but we understand that long-distance travel can be inconvenient. If you prefer to meet a breeder in person, they may be able to offer private visits at their home. Of course! Here at My Golden Retriever Puppies , we value family and authenticity, which is why we always guarantee our pups through our 2-year genetic health guarantee. Like adopting a Golden Retriever from a pet store, there is an increased risk when adopting a pup from a rescue center or shelter as well. For example, pups purchased through a shelter or rescue center are far less likely to come with the kinds of health guarantees and reassurances that a breeder can provide. What type of Golden Retrievers are sold in Indiana? We have some good news! Ready to make your Golden Retriever dreams come true? Take a look at our convenient list of available puppies. How do I know which breeders to trust in Indiana? Our independent network of trusted breeders have already been pre-screened and verified, so that you can focus on what really matters: choosing your dream puppy. Be the first to know when we have new puppies! All Rights Reserved.

How Many Litters can a Bulldog have a Year? How many litters can a Bulldog have a year? Also, how many times can a Bulldog go through a c section? Are they a good dog to breed? A female should not have a litter more than once and year due to the stress of the c-section which they have to have , and should not be bred more than 3 times in their lives. Bulldogs have to be artificially inseminated and have to have c-sections, and they usually do not have more than puppies. It is also hard to find good breed stock to start with. Answer by concerned Are you asking about an English Bulldog or a French Bulldog maybe some other bully breed? Some dogs come in season twice a year but somehow I doubt many English Bulls do. I would not recommend breeding back to back but there are recent differing medical opinions on that. If you're really interested in breeding, do your research and start out with something nice and as health clear as possible. But also go to Pet-Law, a yahoo group, just look it up. Read the achieves, the Animal Rightists are trying to end all home breeding and in fact pets, so it might be a good idea to have an understanding of what could happen in the near future before you begin. It might be nice if everyone understood what was going on and started to protect our ability to keep pets and show dogs too. Answer by grr. If you plan on forcing any dog through that, you are cruel and don't deserve to take care of a dog. Don't force her into having 7 litters of puppies, be happy with your own dog and encourage others to adopt homeless dogs and puppies. You are an enormous jerk for trying to make money off a dog's suffering while hundreds of other dogs are being killed every day. So give your dog the love she deserves and don't be an idiot. There are many many hidden costs that are associated with breeding these dogs not to mention the long hours required to properly. The female dogs only goes into heat every 6 months so if you miss it you have to wait half a year to try again. The Olde English bulldogs will breed naturally but relying on this to happen on its own is not good business. As an Olde English bulldog breeder in partnership with my veterinarian I prefer using artificial insemination to greatly increase the chance of pregnancy. During this evaluation the vaginal cells are examined under a microscope and a blood progesterone test is done. The insemination is repeated 2 more times over the next 5 days. An ultra sound is done 30 days after the breeding to check for pregnancy. At 60 days gestation the progesterone levels are checked again and another ultra sound is done to see how close the female dog is to delivery. If the ultra sound reveals more than 5 pups a c section is scheduled. Professional Olde English bulldog breeders have all their litters delivered by c section. It is much safer for the female dogs and pups. Once the pups are 3 days old they are taken to the vet for a check up and they have their tails docked and dew claws removed. About Us As the premier breeder of Olde English Bulldogges in the Southeast, we love providing families and individuals of all ages with healthy, happy puppies from this amazing breed. Ohld ing-glish Bool-dawg Description The Olde English Bulldogge is a muscular, medium sized dog of great strength, stability and athleticism. He is well balanced and proportioned, with no features exaggerated or standing out. He has the appearance of a dog capable of doing his original job, bull baiting. The OEB head is prominent and dramatic. The cheeks are large, well developed and display powerful jaw muscles. A slightly wrinkled forehead is acceptable. There is a crease from the stop to the occiput. It has a narrow skull and domed forehead. The muzzle is square, wide and deep, with definite layback. Distance from the tip of the nose to the stop does not exceed one-third of the distance from the tip of the nose to the occiput. Height of the muzzle from the bottom of the chin to the top of the muzzle is equal to or greater than the length of the muzzle, thus producing the deep, square muzzle. There is slight to moderate wrinkle on the muzzle. Flews are semi-pendulous. The bite is undershot and horizontally straight. Lower jawbone is moderately curved from front to back. Eyes are round to almond-shape and medium sized. They are set wide apart, with the outside corner of the eye intersecting with the outside line of the skull and are set low, at the level of the muzzle, where the stop and muzzle intersect. Eye color is brown, with black pigmented eye rims. Canine teeth are large. Broken, chipped or extracted teeth are acceptable. There are 6 corn row teeth between canines. Nostrils are wide with a line running vertically between nostrils from the tip of nose down to the bottom of the upper lip. Nose is large and broad in relationship to the width of the muzzle. Nose color is black. Ears are rose, button or tulip, with rose preferred. They are set high and to the rear of the skull. The ears are positioned as wide as possible on the outside of the skull. They are small to medium in size. Neck is medium length, wide, and slightly arched. It is a little smaller than the head where the two meet, and gets wider from that point to the shoulders. It is slightly loose from jaw to chest, forming a double dewlap. They are broad, heavily muscled and have a separation between shoulder blades. The scapula shoulder blade should be at an approximate degree angle to vertical and form an angle approximately degrees to the humerus forearm. Scapula and humerus should be roughly equal in length. A vertical line drawn from the point of the scapula top to the ground will pass directly through the elbow. The elbows are not turned in or out. The legs are set wide apart, coming straight down from the shoulders. They are straight vertically on inside of legs and well-muscled, giving a bowed appearance of front quarters. The forelegs have medium bone and are in proportion to the body. The pasterns are medium in length. They are straight, strong, flexible and nearly perpendicular to the ground. Body is sturdy and powerful. The length from tip of breastbone to rear thigh is slightly longer than the height from ground to withers. The back is wide and muscular, showing power. Topline has a slight roach or wheel back. There is a fall in the back, to its low spot behind the shoulders. From this point the spine rises to the loin. The high point of the loin is a little bit higher than the shoulders then there is a gentle curve, forming an arch, down to the tail. Loin back of ribcage to hips is muscular, medium in length and slightly arched. The chest is wide and deep with a muscular brisket. Ribs are well sprung and rounded, being at their fullest directly behind the shoulders. Shoulders to forelegs are well muscled. Hips and thighs are strong and muscular. Hind legs are well muscled and slightly longer than the forelegs. In a natural stance they are straight, parallel and set apart when viewed from the rear. Distance between hind legs is less than distance between front legs. Angulation is moderate. Stifles have a gentle convex curve when viewed from the side. Stifle angle roughly matches the angle of the pelvis. Hocks are perpendicular to the ground when viewed from the side and back. They are parallel to each other when viewed from the back. A line drawn from the rear-most part of the buttocks, perpendicular to the ground, should fall to the front of the toes. They are straight when viewed from the front. Rear feet are smaller than front feet. Tail should be set low and tapering from base to end. It can be pump handle or straight, with pump handle being preferred. Tail should reach the hocks or be slightly shorter and carried down or horizontal. Some breeders choose to dock the tail. Coat is short, close and of medium density. It should be shiny, showing good health. Color can be brindle of red, gray, fawn or black; either solid or pied with white. Solid white, fawn, red or black; solid color or pied. Temperament Olde English Bulldogges are docile, but capable and protective, fearless and athletic, fierce-looking, determined and courageous, bold and friendly around their family and friends, but fearless adversaries to anyone who threatens their masters or property. This breed likes to chew and should be supplied with plenty of toys and bones. Nylabones and rubber Kong toys are highly recommended. Rawhides, soft rubber and stuffed toys are unsafe, for they are easily shredded or swallowed whole. Olde English Bulldogges are so eager to please that they may overexert themselves in an effort to do whatever is asked of them. An owner who displays a natural authority toward the dog, socialization and obedience training are important. It is best to channel high energy individuals to some type of work and exercise. The objective in training this dog is to achieve pack leader status. It is a natural instinct for a dog to have an order in its pack. When we humans live with dogs , we become their pack. The entire pack cooperates under a single leader. Lines are clearly defined and rules are set. Because a dog communicates his displeasure with growling and eventually biting, all other humans MUST be higher up in the order than the dog. The humans must be the ones making the decisions, not the dogs. That is the only way your relationship with your dog can be a complete success. This breed tends to drool and slobber. Height, Weight Height: Males 17 - 20 inches 43 - 51 cm Females 16 - 19 inches 40 - 48 kg Weight: Males 60 - 80 pounds 27 - 36 kg Females 50 - 70 pounds 22 - 31 kg Health Problems May be susceptible to bloat —a painful and often fatal condition that can be brought on by too large a quantity of food consumed at one time. As with all large breeds, hip dysplasia sometimes occurs. Breeders are working hard to keep it out of the Olde English Bulldogge; therefore, no dog with bad hips is bred. Living Conditions Olde English Bulldogges will adapt to almost any lifestyle. They should be protected from the extreme cold and heat, although they are not as susceptible as the AKC Bulldog. Exercise This breed needs to be taken on a daily pack walk to satisfy its migration instinct. When properly conditioned they can be active dogs, however, they are equally happy with moderate exercise. They can stay in relatively good shape with good muscle tone with only light exercise. These dogs are naturally slow, and because of their unique structure, they should not be encouraged to jump or engage in strenuous exercise as young pups. This breed is an average shedder. In he became disenchanted with English Bulldogs due to their breeding and breathing problems. David's goal was to produce a dog with the looks of the 18th century bulldog, with the temperament of today's English Bulldogs, yet healthy, without breathing problems, or all the other aliments today's English Bulldogs are prone to. This new breed can now breathe. Cesarean section births are not necessary. Artificial insemination, due to male ineptness and lack of drive, has been replaced by natural ties. Lifespan is over eleven years. All breeding stock has had hip x-rays. No dog with bad hips is bred. David says he is now achieving his goal of producing a Bulldog with the health and temperament to be able to serve people, instead of forcing people to serve him. David Leavitt is breeding them to more of a working lines type dog, while OEBKC is breeding the dogs as more of a family oriented dog. They often rank in the top 5 to 10 spots! Bulldogs are brachycephalic, not thanks to their short snouts. They are therefore more likely to snore, snort, grunt, drool, breathe loudly, and have excessive gas. No prizes for guessing who farted! English Bulldogs are frequently quite laid-back and easygoing. They do require some exercise, but a quick stroll will suffice. An English Bulldog gives birth to an average of 3 or 4 puppies in a single litter. Although there are some instances when they give birth to 4 or more, this is really rare and can actually pose a danger to the dogs. English Bulldog births are often quite difficult due to their small birth canal and will require human intervention in the form of Caesarean section in most cases. Although they are a medium-sized breed, they are known to have smaller litters than others in the same category such as Dalmatians and Huskies. Fun fact: the largest English Bulldog litter is shockingly 16, and that accolade belongs to Gucci, who lives in Coventry, England. Her breeder Jay Dhaliwal had to enlist the help of his family to help with this epic delivery! The size of a litter can be influenced by the breeding lines; some lines tend to have larger litter than others. English Bulldog owners who are considering breeding their dogs should talk to a veterinarian or breeder about the size of the anticipated litter. Many other variables, which I go into more detail about in the sections below, will also affect how many puppies there are in a litter. An English Bulldog puppy weighs between 10 to 14 ounces less than a pound! They put on weight quickly though and can be expected to reach 35 pounds by the time they are 6 months old only. The breed standard for an adult English Bulldog is between 40 to 50 pounds females tend to be smaller and the weight can vary slightly depending on genetics, diet, and activity level. All dogs, including English Bulldogs, do not go through menopause and can conceive puppies all the way into their older years. In general, their heat cycle lasts six to seven months or roughly twice a year. However, you should not take it to mean that just because they are in heat, they should be breeding. This is to give them a chance to recover properly. Your dog will experience a lot of stress due to overbreeding, which can result in heart disease, arthritis, and infertility, among other health issues. Stopping early also allows a breeder to spay their dog while they are still quite young and let them enjoy a quality life in their retirement. You should realize the significance of not overbreeding once you take into account that in some countries it is against the law to breed a dog more than four to six times during its lifetime. In the US, the American Kennel Club AKC does not accept registrations for dams that are bred over the age of 12 and under 8 months, and sires that are over the age of 12 and under 7 months. Age of the dam It should not be surprising that as the dam ages, the size of the litter decreases. After your English Bulldog breeds again after the first two times, you would probably see your dam having an extra puppy or two. Interestingly enough, the first two litters are typically smaller than the following ones, likely yielding only 2 or 3 puppies. Try to get your dog spayed long before that time to ensure their general health. Avoid breeding older dogs if possible. Health of the mom Only healthy mothers can give birth to healthy puppies, and that is the truth. Additionally, nutrition has a big impact on how many puppies are born in a litter. All year round, high-quality, protein-rich food should be provided to increase the possibility of producing a larger litter. Mothers who receive inadequate nutrition, especially those who are overweight, frequently have smaller litters. Size of dog In general, dogs within the same breed can differ quite widely in size. This is due to larger body frames in some dogs, just like us humans. Because of that, it also plays a part in the number of puppies an English Bulldog can have. Larger dams typically have a higher likelihood of having a larger litter. On the other hand, if your girl was born in a small litter herself, you can typically expect that she will have a small first litter. Type of breeding It might be preferable to save this topic for a later post given how quickly it could become complex. Just keep in mind that the type of breeding might significantly affect both the number and quality of the puppies. For instance, severe inbreeding will lower the quality of a litter. These difficulties are more likely to occur with two dogs that are closely related. Linebreeding , on the other hand, aims to maintain sufficient genetic diversity while preserving the best genes from a bloodline, making it frequently a safer method of dog breeding. Time of breeding It is said that a dam is more likely to have a larger litter size the closer she is to ovulation. This is defined as the period after the estrogen period when the Luteinizing hormone triggers ovulation. Unfortunately, I have not been able to find any studies supporting this theory, so at this point, I would say this factor is probably not that significant. When an English Bulldog reaches its first heat cycle, it can start breeding, but this should never be done. They normally have their first heat cycle between the ages of 6 and 8 months, which is far too young for them to begin breeding. If you want to allow your dog enough time to grow sexually and acquire weight and size, wait until she is at least in her second or third heat cycle. Most ethical and responsible breeders will wait till an English Bulldog is at least 2 years old before breeding them. This would give them sufficient time to complete all the necessary medical checks which can identify potential for inherited diseases or conditions. Most female Bulldogs go through their first heat cycle between the ages of 6 and 8 months. A useful rule of thumb is that it will go into heat at about the same age that its mother did. Numerous symptoms, including bloody discharge, receptivity to male dogs, restless behavior, and others, can indicate that a dog is in heat. Every dog breed has a different experience with pregnancy, and English Bulldogs are not different. English Bulldog puppies are probably one of the most expensive kinds of puppies to purchase, and although some breeders may consider the financial benefits worth it in the end, the difficulties associated with pregnancy and birth for English Bulldogs should not be overlooked. How many puppies can an English Bulldog have? The average English Bulldog litter size is 3 to 4 puppies. Some English Bulldogs can have more than 4 in a litter, but this can lead to serious health issues and they may not survive long outside of the womb. Generally, a normal litter size for any dog is between two and ten, and several factors such as the breed, size and nutrition of a dog can have an impact on their litter. English Bulldog litter sizes are smaller than the average. English Bulldogs can have up to 4 puppies in the average litter size. How many litters can an English Bulldog have? To ensure their health and wellbeing, an English Bulldog should only be bred around three times in their lifetime. If an English Bulldog has more than 3 litters it can present health and welfare issues. Their average lifespan is smaller than that of other breeds — they generally live for up to eight years. And, with them becoming fertile around the six-month mark, it is probably advisable to spread the breeding process and pregnancies out throughout their lifetime. Did You Know? An English Bulldog will be pregnant for 63 days on average. If you think yours could be expecting, here are the pregnancy signs to look out for. Why do English Bulldogs have such small litters? To put it simply, the smaller the dogs, the smaller the litter. Bigger breeds such as German Shepherds and Golden Retrievers typically have litters of eight, and this is because they usually have much wider hips and a larger body. Now, consider smaller breeds like Yorkshire Terriers who, on average, have a litter of 3 puppies and English Bulldogs. Their substantially smaller hips, bodies and wombs mean that they have nowhere near the same level of capacity than their larger canine counterparts to carry and allow for the healthy development of a such a large litter. Can English Bulldogs get pregnant naturally? The only way that an English Bulldog can get pregnant is through artificial insemination. Although this can be done at home, the success rate will be higher and the environment safer if you arrange for your vet to do this. Can English Bulldogs give birth naturally? Although English Bulldogs have the same gestation period 2 months as other dogs, all female English Bulldogs will experience something called dystocia — which is a term used by vets to describe difficulties in giving birth. Specifically, English Bulldogs have a condition known as dystocia due to foetal-pelvic disproportion. In general terms, what this means is that the birth canal of the mother dog is a lot smaller than the puppies they are expected to birth. When it comes to English Bulldog pups, it is the abnormally large size of their head that is usually the issue. The consequence of this dystocia is that it is impossible for an English Bulldog to give birth naturally. The only way for an English Bulldog to have healthy puppies and survive themselves is through a caesarean section procedure at the vets. As with anybody with a caesarean section, it is crucial that your English Bulldog has plenty of care, rest and regular check-ups following the procedure to ensure that they heal up properly. This is why the recommended gap between pregnancies is longer for English Bulldogs than it may be for other breeds; at least a year is needed for them to recover from the previous C-section procedure. Why are English Bulldog puppies so expensive? Evidently, the entire pregnancy progress from conception to birth requires a lot of trips and procedures at the vets, which makes the resultant puppies a lot more expensive in order to make up for the bill racked up by breeders in order to bring them into the world. The fact that English Bulldogs cannot conceive or give birth naturally also means that puppies of the same breed are exceptionally rare, which gives them a much higher value as a result. Overall, both time and rarity contribute to the price of English Bulldog puppies. Handy Hint: If you are thinking about getting this breed please read my top things to know before you buy an English Bulldog which includes questions to ask the breeder. Ensure you have enough money for all the vet treatments as well as a little extra in case there is an emergency. Put the welfare of the mother dog first. Get the correct paperwork from Kennel Club. Give the mother dog at least a year to recover after birth before breeding her again. Ignore advice from your vet. Leave your English Bulldog alone with the puppies — they naturally have no motherly instincts and could end up harming them. Put your breeding business above the welfare of the mother dog. How can I tell if a breeder is not reputable? Breeders such as this can be difficult to spot, but if you get a strange gut feeling about something, it is better to be safe than sorry. The puppies seem too young under six weeks. The puppies seem abnormally small, weak or otherwise deformed. The prices are too good to be true. It is best to not let them know you know because then they might move away and risk capture. Stay calm, keep a cool head and call the RSPCA or the animal welfare charity that serves your country as soon as you leave. Handy Hint: Know when your English Bulldog is due her heat cycle is key to planning wanted or un-wanted pregnancies. Read my guide to the heat cycle of this breed, how long it takes, and what signs to look out for. Conclusion Thanks for reading my guide to how many puppies English Bulldogs have. Now you have an idea on what the average English Bulldog litter size is, it should give you an idea on why they can be so expensive to buy. English Bulldogs are a wonderful breed, but their journey into the world is far from simple. If you want to breed English Bulldog puppies, this is not a task that should be undertaken lightly. You need to research, consult your vet and have plenty of money for medical expenses. You might also like… If you already own this breed, here are some other help articles you might find of interest:. There are usually 3 to 4 puppies in an English Bulldog litter. Some English Bulldog breeds can have more than four puppies in a litter, but this will result in serious health issues and the puppies may not survive outside the womb. In general, English Bulldogs have smaller litters and shorter lifespans than the average dog for its size. There is a difference between the average and English Bulldog litter size. More than three litters in an English Bulldog can present health and welfare problems. Dogs generally live up to eight years on average, which is shorter than other breeds. Due to their fertile status beginning at around six months, it would probably be best to spread out the breeding process and pregnancies throughout their lives. Litters are smaller when the dogs are smaller. According to the American Kennel Club, the average litter size is puppies. Take into consideration smaller breeds such as Yorkshire Terriers and English Bulldogs, which have litters on average of three puppies. The significantly smaller hips, bodies, and wombs of these animals mean they cannot carry and support large litters to the same extent as their larger canine counterparts. The best way to find out if your bulldog is pregnant is to get an ultrasound. You should request an ultrasound 25 days after mating. English Bulldog ultrasound scanning is the quickest way to determine if your mating and conception plan worked. If you can wait at least 25 days after mating or artificial insemination, veterinarians recommend you do a pregnancy test as soon as 21 days after mating or artificial insemination. Timid dogs may find ultrasounds frightening, as they are noninvasive and painless. The noise may stress her out a bit. You will be able to see if any puppies are growing inside and how many puppies to expect. You can also come up with a prenatal plan for your dog once you know she is pregnant. When delivering a bulldog, the window for a c-section can range from 60 days to 63 days, depending on the gestation period. Puppies can be born early, but veterinarians often perform x-rays or sonograms to track their development. Early detection of a problem is typical if it exists. The rectal temperature of your dog during the final week of her pregnancy indicates when the puppies will be born. Drop-In Body Temperature The temperature of your dog should be between and degrees Fahrenheit if the dog is healthy. After the second reading of a low temperature, labor should commence within 24 hours. Milk Production Similar to humans, females provide milk to their pups shortly after birth. Their bodies prepare themselves for birth before even giving birth. In addition to swollen breasts, your dog may have swollen nipples and even some redness around the area. Panting When dogs exert themselves physically, they often pant. When dogs exert themselves physically, they tend to pant. It is common to see dogs pant excessively during active labor, with many short breaths that are followed by small pauses. Lethargy Your dog may need to rest a great deal as she gets ready to give birth as labor is a draining process. Your dog may be reaching the end of her pregnancy if she seems more sluggish than usual. Nesting Behavior It is easy to tell when pregnant dogs are nesting by the behavior they exhibit. To create a safe space for giving birth, your dog may begin digging through pillows, blankets, and any other comfortable items. By familiarizing your dog with a nesting box before this happens, it will be easier for you to provide a haven for her. Be sure to give your dog plenty of water if she starts vomiting before or during labor. This will prevent dehydration. You must be available to your dog during the birthing process for the simple fact that she may instinctively cling to your side. It depends on where you live and who you go to for a c-section whether it will cost you more or less. The information below will help you understand everything you need to know about c-sections and bulldogs, including how they can be performed safely and comfortably and why it is necessary. In bulldogs, natural birth can pose severe risks to their mothers and puppies. It is usually impossible for puppies to descend properly into the birth canal due to their size and shape. When they get into the canal, they will probably get stuck. Even though it is technically not necessary for you to assist your dog during delivery, it is always a good idea to be prepared in case of an emergency. The umbilical cord can be cut, the membrane can be removed, a towel can be used to rub the baby, and the baby can be kept warm. In addition, your female dog may require assistance walking and urinating after giving birth. When Can Bulldogs Be Bred? Bulldogs often begin going into heat between six and eight months of age. The first estrus is not a good time to breed your Bulldog. To ensure that she is physically and mentally prepared for a litter of puppies, we recommend waiting until her third estrus. A watchful eye should be kept on her when she is in active heat to prevent unplanned breeding. A healthy and happy English bulldog requires at least three breedings throughout its lifetime to stay in good health. English bulldogs may have serious health and welfare problems, even if they have been living with the same family for years. As for males, they usually reach full sexual maturity between the ages of 12 and 15 months after becoming fertile. It is not technically necessary for you to assist your dog is giving birth to her puppies, but you should be on hand in case a veterinarian is required in an emergency. The umbilical cord may be cut, the membrane may be removed, a towel could be rubbed over them, and they may be kept warm. In addition to urinating and walking, your female dog may need assistance after giving birth. You will also like:.

Umbilical cord training Throughout the rest of this guide I will be referring to each of these 4 methods and when you should or could be using them. Once used to using the paper or the pads, you slowly cut the area covered until they reliably use just a couple of sheets and never miss. You then slowly move the paper toward the outside where another set is placed and you begin to encourage your puppy to go outside only, before completely removing the papers inside. At this point they will have made the transition. A top tip when paper training is when you clean away soiled paper, you should hold one piece back and place it as a middle layer of the new papers. Puppy pads have a scent that attracts a puppy, paper does not. Effectiveness: On a scale of 1 to 5, I give it a 3. This is confusing and will make the learning process take longer. Best suited to: Either people who are going to have an indoor bathroom spot long-term, or people who will not use a crate for training yet cannot commit to constantly supervising their puppy when inside the home. Ease of use: On a scale of 1 to 5, definitely a 5. But it does result in more mistakes from your puppy until later in life. Equipment needed: Nothing but stacks of old newspapers! A very cost-effective method. Description: The method takes advantage of the fact dogs have a natural instinct not to soil the area where they eat and sleep. Key to this is making the crate just large enough to stand in, turn around easily and lay down stretched out but no bigger. The rest of the time you watch them and regularly take them outside to potty to teach them good habits. Best suited to: Everybody! This is because you will have to crate train your puppy before you can use a crate for house training which does take time and effort. Click here for my free and detailed guide to crate training your puppy. Equipment needed: A suitable crate. I have a guide to help you select the right size and type that you can read by clicking here. Effectiveness: On a scale of 1 to 5, I tentatively give it a 3. It could actually score higher or lower depending on how committed you are and how successful at supervising your puppy you are. Best suited to: People who are against any kind of confinement and can stay at home to watch their puppy all day every day. Mostly people who work from home and the retired. But this method also forms a part of every house training plan, whether you use other methods alongside or not. This is because when a puppy is free inside a home, they MUST be closely supervised to prevent any mistakes. Ease of use: On a scale of 1 to 5, I give it a 2. It scores low as it requires a lot of input from you as the owner. It is quite draining never being able to take your eye of your puppy. Equipment needed: None. Not a crate, newspapers, puppy pads or anything. The cheapest of all the methods…unless you put a price on your time. But it is highly effective. Description: This technique calls for you to tether your puppy to you by leash and have them follow you wherever you go when inside your home. You will notice and be able to intervene and correct every possible mistake, taking them outside every time they need to relieve themselves. Used correctly, the opportunity for your puppy to make mistakes is completely removed so every single time they need to visit their bathroom spot is a training opportunity you will take advantage of and no mistake goes uncorrected. Best suited to: People who spend all their time at home with their puppy and would also enjoy literally being tied to their pup all day. Further Info: for a detailed discussion of this technique, the benefits, downside, and many more tips, please see my article: Umbilical Cord House Training: What is It? How Does It Work? A Mix Of 3 Methods I use and recommend a mixture of crate training, constant supervision and paper training. I use constant supervision extensively because when a puppy is outside of the crate you have to watch them diligently to avoid puppy mistakes. Admittedly this is somewhat going against my advice because I always recommend to avoid paper training if possible. It encourages or allows your puppy to toilet inside the home, before then training them not to do so. This is confusing to your puppy and harmful to our house training efforts. But even though I recommend against it, using paper training ever so occasionally as a fall back plan works well for me. Most dogs love being outside and will use any excuse to get out there and stay there. You do this by using a cue word and walking them on leash to their potty spot, not allowing them to do anything else and if they do not potty, taking them back inside and trying again in a few minutes. Because a full bladder or bowel is uncomfortable, dogs are happy to relieve themselves, but some may try to hold it if they think they can get to stay outside and sniff around a while. If people use different words, your dog will get confused. This will slowly teach them the command. And this is fine for the first couple of weeks while they have no bladder control and will perform their business very quickly. And some dogs even learn to actively hold their bladder just so they can stay outside to explore for longer. Before you can do this you need to first get your puppy used to wearing a collar and leash. Have You Got Everything Prepared? A Check-list Before You Start Like everything in life, house training runs smoother if you have everything ready before you start, hopefully before you even bring your puppy home. Have you: Decided on and marked out a suitable bathroom spot? Chosen and purchased a suitable high-quality nutritious food? Figured out the times of day you will feed your puppy? Got a collar and leash? Put in place a leash training plan? Bought a suitable crate and set it up in a suitable place? Bought bedding for the crate? Bought chew toys to occupy your puppy in the crate? Decided on the commands you will use if any? Purchased either baby gates, a pet barrier or an exercise pen for longer term confinement? Sourced stacks of newspapers or puppy pads to use in the long-term confinement area? Bought some small but highly tasty training treats to use as a reward? Bought specialized pet stain removing and odor neutralizing cleaning products? Bought a UV light to find hidden spots of urine that must be removed to prevent repeat accidents? Sat and discussed with every member of your household your finalized plans so everybody has the same info? Successful House Training Is All About Schedules And Routine Dogs thrive when living to schedules and routine, doing best when they have set times for eating, going to toilet, exercise, training and play. But because the passage of food through their digestive system stays roughly the same, if you feed your puppy at the same times every day they will need to defecate at roughly the same times every day. This results in fewer mistakes, more opportunities to praise your puppy for going in the right place and so speeds up their learning. Depending on their age a puppy will need to poop 3 to 6 times a day, and wee many more times than that. Can these times be predicted? Mostly they can. When a puppy needs to potty depends on when they last ate, drank and their recent activities. Mostly they need to go: First thing in the morning The instant they wake up from a nap at any time of the day Just before going to bed Within a few minutes of eating or drinking Immediately after a play session Immediately after any excitement But a puppy also needs to go many times per day regardless of recent activities, so you should also take your puppy to their bathroom spot on a consistent schedule such as the following: At 8 weeks old — every 30 mins. At 10 weeks old — every 45 mins. At 12 weeks old — every 1 to 1. At 16 weeks old — every 2 hours. At 20 weeks old — every 3 hours. Some will need to wee within 2 minutes of drinking, others after 20 minutes. Some will need a bathroom break within 2 minutes of waking, others 15 minutes later. You have to determine your puppies own natural tendencies and create a schedule to suit. To achieve this, you need to follow this 5 step process: Feed them to a strict schedule. Decide on exercise, play and training times. Develop a schedule including feeding, exercise, play, training and all scheduled potty times. Use the information gathered in your diary to learn from any mistakes and adjust your schedule for the following week. The more you can stick to schedules and routines, the smoother and faster the process will be. But you can stray from the path when necessary and still find success, it will just take a little longer. You should feed your puppy 3 times a day when 12 to 26 weeks old. From 26 weeks old and onwards, feed your puppy just two times a day For 2 meals a day you need to space them out 8 to 12 hours apart. What works for me is shortly after I get up at and when we have our evening meal between PM and PM. Availability Of Water: You should make sure fresh water is always available but because drinking too much or too little can be a sign of health problems, you do need to monitor their water intake. Physical activity often leads to a puppy needing to potty very soon after. So to encourage predictable potty times for your puppy, you want to schedule their exercise and play. Deciding when to exercise, train and play with your puppy is entirely up to you. You should fit it around your lifestyle and commitments, but try to make it the same times each day if you can. Enter all the following details into a single column in an excel spreadsheet, or write them down as a day schedule with a pen and paper: When you wake and add an instant bathroom break before you do ANYTHING for yourself! Enter the times you will play with, train and exercise your puppy. Enter a scheduled visit to the bathroom spot after each of the activities listed in points 1 to 3. Add scheduled bathroom visits after any length of time longer than your puppy should be expected to hold it according to their age. Write in scheduled sleeps for your puppy, place them in the crate or confinement area. After writing down this schedule, tick off each task as you go through the day with your puppy. This way you will always know what needs to be done and when, and there will be no confusion about whether someone else in the house fed, exercised or took the puppy to the loo. I discuss this further in step 5 below. You should be able to pick up on any patterns and adjust your own behavior to avoid mistakes in future. Was puppy left alone and peed in the living room while you made breakfast? Puppy should never be left alone unsupervised, learn from this mistake. Or maybe puppy peed in the crate after an hour? Learn from this mistake. Well done for watching them closely enough. So increase the frequency. Therefore you should stretch out the time between visits by 10 to 15 minutes for the following day. This is how you find out. And Now House Training is So Much Easier By writing out the schedule as in step 3, you should never forget to feed, train or take your puppy to potty. And by using the schedule as a diary as in step 5, you get feedback on how you and your puppy are performing, and are armed with the necessary info to make changes to your schedule over time. You, your puppy and their needs all stay in sync and house training becomes that much easier. Just make a spreadsheet in excel and print it out, or simply buy some lined paper. Keep it somewhere you can always see and know where it is, alongside a pen or pencil and write entries in it as you watch your puppy throughout the day. After this, continuing with a diary every day is the best advice, although keeping one for 3 consecutive days each week will be sufficient for you to pick up on any changes as they mature. Once your puppy is 5 to 6 months old, they will have sufficient bladder control and experience to make a schedule and diary unnecessary. Just make sure they get access to the outside at least once every 3 hours and all will be fine. Extending The Time Between Toilet Breaks I discussed earlier how a puppy will need regular visits to their bathroom spot, something like every 30 minutes at 8 weeks old, every 45 minutes at 10 weeks old and so on. But every puppy is different and their progress in having longer time between needed toilet breaks will vary too. You do this because as a puppy grows, the size of their bowel and bladder increases, so they will be able to hold more for longer and you want to take advantage of this. This is also teaching them necessary bladder and bowel control. Use your cue word before you take them: By using your chosen cue word every time before you take them to potty, your puppy will learn what the trip is about and what they must do. This eventually leads to faster results as they know what is expected of them. Lead your puppy to the bathroom spot on leash: This gives you the ability to keep your puppy at the bathroom spot and prevent them wandering off, getting distracted and forgetting what they are there for. Make sure you stay with them at their bathroom spot: If you have them on leash, then of course you will be. When they start to go, say your chosen cue word in a soft warm voice. Mix up the reward between play, time off leash and a food reward to keep them guessing, but keep the food rewards to a minimum as what goes in must come out and random feeding promotes random elimination times! Many people pop out, stand for 1 minute and then come back in. Some people recommend to stay out there for 10, 15, 20 minutes, whatever it takes until they go, then praise profusely when they do. I recommend you give them 3 to 5 minutes, saying your cue word every 30 seconds or so but otherwise standing silently still just holding their leash so they cannot wander off. Take them back to their bathroom spot in 10 minutes or so. If using a crate for house training: Pop them back in the crate and leave them for 10 minutes. Then take them back to their bathroom spot. Take them to their bathroom spot after 10 minutes. If not, take them away from their bathroom spot and watch them for 10 minutes before returning them to their bathroom spot. And if crate training, do not leave them in the crate too long else they may be forced to soil in there. Prevent this at all costs. Rinse and repeat the visits to and fro like this until they do potty, then follow the next sections advice. What You Should Do Between Scheduled Bathroom Breaks Between scheduled bathroom visits you should do two things: Allow some supervised free time in your home, and use your chosen house training method. By free time I mean time outside of their crate, or off leash, or out of their confinement area. Time free to roam, explore and live life. When 10 weeks old they may need to toilet every 30 minutes, so they only get 5 to 10 minutes free time. When 12 weeks old, they may need to toilet every hour so they can get 35 to 40 minutes free time. You allow this free time because you are of course working toward a time when they will always be free and trusted unsupervised. To get there they need the experience, to get used to being free in your home and begin seeing it as a place they need to keep clean. They also need social interaction and life experiences. But what are the signs a puppy is about to potty? Heading toward, barking at or scratching the door to the outside. The minute you see any of these signs you should take your puppy to their bathroom spot immediately. There may well be some false alarms, but better safe than sorry. Carefully watch them and you should soon notice what body language means a wee or a poop is imminent. There will be recognizable signs. We do this because the time is fast approaching when mistakes are most likely to be made. If using constant supervision: Carry on as you are. Then at their scheduled potty time, attach a leash and lead them to their bathroom spot. If using a crate for house training: Encourage your puppy into their crate and close the door, leaving them there until their scheduled potty time and then release them, instantly attaching a leash and leading them to their bathroom spot. If using umbilical cord training: Attach a leash and tether your puppy to you, ready to react if they make moves to eliminate. Take them to their bathroom spot at the scheduled time. If paper training: Take your puppy to their confinement area where their papered bathroom spot is and supervise them, ready to intervene if they make moves to potty away from the paper. Not good when you need to be there to encourage them for doing it in the right place. If they do, you can pick them up and carry them, or take them by the collar and gently lead them to their bathroom spot, then encourage them to finish where they should. But to me this seems foolish. Instead of a little pile or puddle, you then have a long line of wee or poop from where you caught them all the way to the bathroom spot that you then have to deep clean instead. Then think how they were able to make such a mistake and tweak your plans so it cannot happen again. But any corrections or punishment now will be futile. House Training For Full Time Workers This advice applies not just to full-time workers , but also if you must occasionally leave your puppy home alone for a few hours. Most importantly, follow all the advice in this guide so far for the times that you are home. Supervise them, correct any mistakes, set feeding and elimination schedules and everything else I have advised. First of all, if like me you use a crate, you simply cannot leave your puppy in the crate for many hours. This is very unfair on your puppy and it will destroy the crates power as a house training tool if they lose the instinct to keep it clean. Secondly, please do your best to enlist the help of a family member, friend, neighbor or hire a dog walker to periodically pop in to visit your puppy, take them to their bathroom spot, give them some social interaction and so on. But I also freely admit to using paper training myself occasionally, for the unavoidable times I have to leave my puppy home alone for a few hours. If you have to leave your puppy home alone for any reason, usually because you work, then paper training in your absence is the only thing you can do. You then have two options available to you: Buy and use an exercise pen, or confine your puppy to a single, puppy-proofed room. As they get used to pottying on paper, reduce the area covered one sheet at a time until just a small area remains covered. Once you know your puppy can hold their bladder for longer than they have to be left alone, remove the paper altogether. By 16 to 20 weeks, they should be able to last the 3 or 4 hours max they will be left alone and somebody comes to exercise them and allow a bathroom break. Between 8 and 12 weeks when weeing seems spontaneous , my puppy spends a fair bit of time in there and I paper train them to use puppy pads. Our kitchen and dining room was separated by an arch where a door used to be, with tiled flooring, making it ideal. I used a baby gate across the arch between the kitchen and dining room, and initially covered the dining area with paper, over time reducing it to just two sheets with the puppy pad holder on top. The dining area is completely empty, with no furniture, nothing in there. Skirting boards, the corners of furniture items, anything within reach is a potential target for teeth and claws. My girlfriend works from home, we crate trained and we had no problem finding house sitters in an evening if we needed one, so we all but had things covered. But this is something you need to be mindful of. Whatever the reason, there just WILL be times you cannot supervise your puppy. The essence of house training is to prevent mistakes and praise your puppy heavily when they potty in the right place. If you cannot watch your puppy, the chances of them making a mistake go through the roof. So even if you choose to use a constant supervision method exclusively, you will still need to confine your puppy sometimes to a paper covered area just in case. I mean literally none at all. One minute they are trotting along, the next they are leaking. No warning signs for you, not even any warning signs for them. I recommend setting up an exercise pen with the entire area papered, or do as I do and confine them to a room with the entire area papered. Use this time to paper train them, to get them used to weeing on paper and gradually reduce the area because you will use this method if you ever have to leave them home alone during the next 4 or 5 months. They will sniff, circle and so on as I mentioned before. At this point you can now move on to using your chosen house training method. Start encouraging them to potty in the right place from the minute you get them home. So the good news is, even at 8 weeks they will be able to last 4 or so hours and you will only need to wake once during the night. Also, make sure to take them to their bathroom spot right before you go to bed so they can empty themselves. Then set an alarm for 4 hours after their bed time when you must get up and take them to their bathroom spot. No excuses, you simply must do this. If you find your puppy has soiled in this time, you should set the alarm for half an hour earlier the next night 3. After a few days of not having a night-time accident, set your alarm for 15 minutes later and increase the time by 15 minutes for each successful night they do not have an accident. If you find they make a mistake one night before you wake, set the alarm back half an hour, make sure they stay dry a few days and then increase 15 minutes nightly again. And by using this schedule, you strike a good balance between a couple of inevitable accidents while stretching out the time at a good pace to lasting a full night. If they soil their crate more than once in any given week, you may have to progress slower add 15 minutes every 2 or 3 days , or perhaps sleep them in a papered exercise pen or their confinement room. Maintaining their instinct to keep the crate clean is of utmost importance. What To Do At The Bathroom Spot At Night When you take them out at night, say your chosen cue word, take them straight to their bathroom spot, praise them gently when they finish their business but do not reward them with anything else. The last thing you want is to teach your puppy that during the night is a time for play or food treats! This will come back to haunt you in a big way and result in noisy sleepless nights. You want your puppy to learn that night-time is for sleeping and for nothing else. Do nothing else. Some will be able to last the whole night without a potty break at 10 weeks rarely , and some may not be able to at 15 weeks also rarely. But certainly by 16 weeks old your puppy will be able to last a 7 hour night without needing to potty if you do not feed them for 3 hours or provide water for 2 hours before bed time and allow them to empty themselves right before you lay down for the night. No Progress? If you are feeding, exercising, training and playing with your puppy to a schedule, and when you look at your diary there seems to be no pattern to the times they need to potty, you should seek the advice of your vet. Common ailments such as gastroenteritis, urinary tract infection and health issues affecting internal organs and the genitalia can lead to a dog needing to potty much more frequently, often leading to eliminating in the house. Again, seek the advice of your family vet. You cannot successfully house train a puppy who is ill because their bodily functions will be too unpredictable. But 6 to 7 months is the ball park figure to aim for. A single mistake in the home can cause a major setback. A puppy may not make a mistake for 2 weeks, then you give them too much freedom, they make a mistake and all of a sudden they are regularly trying to potty in the home again. Also, some puppies just seem to forget everything for a few days now and then while growing up, even after being perfect for a couple of weeks. Just stick to your plan and they WILL eventually get it. Conclusion With house training, the fewer mistakes you allow your puppy to make and the more they are rewarded for doing the right thing, the quicker they will learn and the faster you will find success. Because of this, the more effort you put in and the more time you spend with your puppy at the beginning — supervising to correct mistakes and taking them to their bathroom spot many times each day — the better. But there are many other things you can do to help yourself and your puppy to find success. This guide has provided you with all the theory, strategies, tips and tricks you will ever need to successfully house train your puppy as quickly and efficiently as possible, with the fewest mistakes along the way. Please see the entire series linked to below:. Learn to spot the signs Never punish your Lab after an accident Use potty pads as a temporary indoor alternative Recognize excitement urination Be aware of submissive urination Allow more freedom as your puppy improves The ultimate aim of housebreaking your puppy is to prevent accidents. Control His Environment When potty training your puppy, the first thing to do is to control his environment. Use a long leash and attach your pup to your waist, even when inside the house. This allows you to look out for warning signs. Your pup will sleep in the crate, whereas the playpen provides extra space. Make sure to choose a pen with a door so that you can attach it to the crate, such as the Midwest Homes for Pets Folding Exercise Pen from Amazon. I also recommend the Midwest Homes for Pets icrate. Introduce the Crate Slowly introduce the crate when crate training your Lab over the first few days. When you let your pup out of his crate, immediately take him outside. When he is away from his own room, make sure you closely supervise him by keeping him attached to you on a long leash. Allow Frequent Potty Breaks Give your dog lots of opportunities to go outside. Create a Puppy Potty Schedule Dogs thrive off routines, including mealtimes, exercise, and potty training! You can set an alarm on your watch or phone to remind you to take your dog outside to his toilet area. Your pup will need to go first thing in the morning, after a meal or drinking, when he wakes from a nap, after playtimes, and before bedtime. Look for clues such as sniffing the floor or carpet, circling, restlessness, becoming overexcited, whining, or making towards the door. This includes whether you catch him in the act or if it happened a while ago. Moreso, the latter, as your dog will have no idea what he is being punished for! This is because dogs have a terrible short-term memory and will forget an event in two minutes. Instead, take him straight outside and reward him with a treat and lots of praise if he finishes off his business. Use Potty Pads as a Temporary Indoor Alternative Potty pads can be handy in extended periods of bad weather or if you live in a high-rise apartment and it takes longer to get outside. They can also be useful when traveling. This is when your Labrador gets so excited he will pee a small amount. It may happen when a family member or friend visits. To prevent this, allow your dog to eliminate before a visitor arrives and ensure visitors make their entrance low-key with no fuss, even ignoring the pup for a few minutes. Dogs will usually grow out of excitement pee by 18 months of age. Be Aware of Submissive Urination This is also common, but your puppy will outgrow it. It occurs when your Labrador wants to show submissive status to a person or another animal. He may squat and urinate during specific situations. To prevent it, avoid yelling and physical punishment, appear less intimidating when approaching, kneel down, and stroke under his chin instead of the top of his head. At first, keep his sleeping area small and then gradually increase the size slowly and methodically. Remove the divider in the crate or make the playpen area larger if you arent using a crate. You can use a crate to your advantage as it helps your pup develop quicker bowel and bladder control. To potty train a Lab puppy with a crate, use the crate as a tool. When the door is closed, your Lab will let you know he needs to eliminate by whining or scratching. He will learn self-control quicker. Crates are great when you cannot fully supervise your puppy and are an ideal way to control his environment. However, you still need to keep a close eye on him and spot the signs when he needs to go. Make it smaller using a divider. He will be less likely to eliminate in a smaller sleeping area. Check out my recommendations for the Best Dog Crates for Labradors and Playpens , including soft crates, travel crates, and furniture styles. Just be aware that it will probably take a little longer. Use dog gates to section off an area of the house. When away from his confinement, tether your pup to you with a long leash and establish a strict potty break schedule. If you choose dog gates, there are many styles you can choose to match your decor and configure how you like. This area should contain training pads or newspapers. Potty Training Puppies Between Months Old Most puppies are around eight weeks old when they leave their mother and littermates, but occasionally your pup may be a little older when you first bring him home. You may wonder how to potty train an older puppy and whether you should do anything different. Generally speaking, you should follow the same principles as training an 8-week-old Lab. However, a more mature puppy should be able to grasp housebreaking quicker. Time to start potty training your Labrador Puppy Potty training or house training is one of the first things that you will have to focus on after bringing home a Labrador Puppy. However, you must know what to expect when toilet training a Lab puppy, you must be prepared with patience and dedication since house training can be difficult in the beginning. Here are the house-training basics that you will need to follow to train your puppy. House training is done over time, and here is how. You can also take your puppy into your yard if you have one. Teaching your lab puppy go potty in the yard is the best idea since Labradors produce a lot of waste when they are grown. If you live in an apartment you have no other option but to take your Lab outside to evacuate. Lab puppies love to go outside and explore new territories. So for apartment dwellers, the first months of potty training will happen indoors. Puppies can refuse to go potty on surfaces that they are not used to. For example, if your puppy gets used to evacuating on hard floors, going potty in the grass will feel awkward to your puppy, and will prefer to do it on the sidewalk. So, using an artificial grass puppy pad while you potty train your Lab indoors can help to transition to real grass when your puppy is ready to explore the outside world. How to toilet train a Labrador Retriever Puppy Keep an eye on your puppy for signs like circling, sniffing, and scratching the floor. This means that your puppy needs to potty. Take your puppy outside or to the designated potty place in your house or apartment. This will help your dog know that is the place to go do the thing. If the activity is successful praise your puppy for doing a good job. You can also give your Lab puppy a treat for doing a good job, Labs are a food-motivated breed, so yummy treats help a lot with training. Positive reinforcement will help your Labrador to go potty in the right place. Limiting the movement of your puppy will make it easier to keep an eye on during this process. Consider using baby gates to close an area of your house. The area must be big enough so that your puppy can move and play inside. It should be close to your yard or the area of your house where you want your Lab to go potty. Also, this area must be easy to clean, you can expect accidents in this part of the potty training. Then take the puppy to the potty place and let it finish there. Do not scare the puppy if you catch it in the act, the goal is to get its attention and let it know that it is not doing the right thing. This is something you must teach your dog. Do it patiently and be consistent with the training and eventually, you will get your Labrador fully house-trained. Use some white vinegar diluted in water or an enzymatic odor remover to thoroughly clean the area. For this period, you might need the following items to begin potty training your Labrador puppy. Make sure they are all pet-friendly and of a reputable brand name. Absorbent pee pad : Dog training pads mostly come in handy in the first stages of house training, before your puppy can go potty outside. The benefit of a pad is that the mess your puppy makes will be confined to just one place and it will be easier for you to clean up. Stain Remover : As a routine, accidents are bound to happen. And this is why having a good cleaner is extremely important. Along with a pet, cleaner make sure you also have ample small towels on hand. Dog poop bag and Pooper scooper : Having these is also very important. They will come in handy when you have to pick up and discard the mess your little friend makes. You can carry these in your bag or even in your pocket when you go out on a walk with your dog. Treats: Many dogs are motivated by food, and this is why you will need food treats that your Labrador puppy enjoys. After your dog listens to your commands and goes to the right place, give him a treat, so he understands that food comes after he goes to the right place. A leash and collar: This will allow you to show your dog where the right place is. Barrier gates : This is also an essential supply as it will confine your dog to a specific place. Barrier gates make it easier to keep your house floors clean. Pee finder : Finding and cleaning dried pee will help prevent future accidents. You might also want a car seat cover in case you have to travel somewhere with your little friend. An artificial grass pad to train your puppy for the outside. When to start house training your Labrador puppy: On a general note, younger Labrador puppies have very short attention spans. At what age should a lab puppy be potty trained? House training should begin as soon as your Lab puppy arrives at your home. Which is normally at 7 to 9 weeks of age. So, if your little Labrador puppy is a few weeks old, you might begin with basic command words to get familiar with the house routine and also your voice. You can use this time to show your new Lab puppy the areas of your house it is allowed to be in, and close off any part of your house that is off-limits to your dog. The best moments to train your Lab puppy are: After a nap. Labrador house training routines. We want them to learn to wait until they are outdoors before emptying their bladder or bowels. It is about maturity too. We need to understand that tiny puppies have immature bodies and are not physically capable of waiting very long. On your side There are two factors on your side in the potty training process. When it comes to bladder control, fortunately your puppy improves with every day that passes, so this factor does not work against you forever. The same applies to the fact that the puppy has been removed from his nest, he will soon learn to accept his new nest. The principles of puppy potty training The puppy is learning the principle of extending the nest area, which he keeps clean instinctively, to include your entire home. Punishment is counter-productive in this process as it teaches the puppy to avoid emptying himself in your presence. Rewards are helpful, but given the right routine, a puppy will naturally learn to be clean without them. The secret to successful house training lies in selecting targets that the puppy can achieve. If your puppy sometimes needs to wee every 15 minutes whilst he is awake and active, you will have to take him outside every 15 minutes. Restricted access Start small applies here too. Allow your puppy access only to a small part of your home. Increase the area he has access to, only when he is capable of keeping the current area clean. Just because he can. And because the sensation of a filling bladder is a new one. Your job is to teach him to wait a little longer. You do this by confining him for a short time, every time his bladder fills. You can confine him in his nest within a crate , or in your arms. He will be reluctant to wee in either location. If he wets himself, you have waited too long! It takes two You need to go outside with your puppy, and stay out there with him, each time he needs to wee. A tiny puppy is unlikely to empty himself on his own. This especially applies in cold or wet weather. Routines Matter When House Training a Labrador Retriever Based around these practical requirements you can create your own house training routine. For a puppy that needs to wee every half an hour, it will go something like this Take puppy outside to the toilet area and wait with him until he empties himself Bring him indoors and allow him free access to your kitchen for fifteen to twenty minutes Crate or cuddle the puppy until it is thirty minute since his last wee Take the puppy back out to the toilet area If at any time the puppy does not empty himself then confine him for another ten minutes and try again. As soon as he is regularly not needing to wee after thirty minutes you can extend the duration of free access to your kitchen. Provided you stick to these principles and strategies, the house training process, though quite intense for a short while, will pass smoothly. Supervise Your Puppy Your second job is to supervise or contain your puppy when his bladder is filling up. You can do this by crating him for a few minutes, or by cuddling him in your arms. I recommend the cuddle option for the first few days, that way you can introduce the crate gradually once he has settled into his new home. Either spend your first day together in the yard getting a feel for how frequently they pee. As you can see, there is some guesswork involved in house training a puppy, but not too much. The secrets of successful outdoor toilet trips Not wanting to pee outside is a common toilet training puppy problem and one we look at in more detail in this article. Keeping your puppy company is the key. You need to go outside with your puppy and wait there with him until he has done a wee. This may take longer than you would like, and you probably have better things to do than stand in your yard while your puppy chases butterflies or plays with your shoe laces. But stay outside you must, until he has done that wee. Coming Indoors Early If you must come indoors before your puppy has relieved himself, you need to supervise him very closely. Hold him in your arms — or put him in a small crate for a few minutes — before going back out to try again. It is a new puppy problem, and it will pass. And if you teach your puppy to pee on command, it will pass even quicker! Rewarding success If you put plenty of effort in, and take your puppy out a great deal in those first few days, he will quickly learn that the place you have allocated to him for potty purposes is the place to pee. You can praise him and give him a little treat for doing so. Have your treat on hand keep them next to your poop bags so you remember to grab both on the way out , and deliver it right after your puppy has completed their business. Rewarding his successes and ignoring his accidents is the quickest way of successfully communicating what you want, and quickly potty training your puppy. Stage 2 — Learning self control During stage 2 your puppy begins to develop some self control. This means he can wait a few minutes before emptying himself when his bladder starts to feel full. Keep an eye on your puppy for the tell tale signs that he needs to use the toilet: whimpering, whining or barking sniffing about, especially sniffing in circles! Using Your Crate If your puppy is now used to his crate, you can start using it stretch out the gaps between toilet trips. Accidents during stage 2 At some point during stage 2, many puppies will be able to last an hour or so between wees. This is when puppy parents often relax their vigilance, and their puppies start having accidents in the house again. Simply go back to shorter gaps between trips to the yard for a few days. Then start to space out those trips again, but more gradually this time. Stage 3 — Extending the clean zone This is where all your hard work starts to really pay off. Once your puppy is confidently and consistently toileting outdoors, and you can further stretch out the gaps between toilet breaks, and start to introduce your puppy to the rest of your home. Take it slowly, and if accidents occur, to go back to shorter gaps between trips outdoors for a few days. Bear in mind that your puppy may be used to peeing in the yard and not in the kitchen by now, but they might not automatically understand which rule applies to the lounge. Method 2: How to potty train a puppy indoors This section has a lot in common with how to potty train a puppy when you work. So follow method 2 if you need to know how to potty train a puppy in an apartment as well. And that means using pads. How to potty train a puppy on pads The simplest way to do this is to restrict the puppy to a smallish room with washable floors. Cover the floor with puppy pads to begin with, with their bed in one corner. How do you train a puppy to pee on a pad? With this arrangement in place, as long as your puppy leaves his bed to pee which his mom will have encouraged him to do , he will pee onto the pads. So over the next few days, reduce the area of the floor that is covered with puppy pads by half. You should find he begins to make an effort to pee and poop on the part of the floor that is covered — but it needs to be a sizeable part to get this good habit established. How to potty train a puppy fast using pads — reducing the toilet area By the end of the first week, you can begin to reduce the part of the floor that is covered with puppy pads right down to a small area, preferably near the back door. It is usually best to do this when you have some time booked off work — or during a long weekend when the weather is fine. But if you choose to crate train your puppy LINK alongside potty training him, the crate can be a useful aid for potty training too. Once your puppy thinks of the crate as their bed, they will be reluctant to soil in it. You Still Need To Watch Your Puppy Always watch puppies closely in their crate during potty training, and whisk them out to the right spot at the first sign they might need to relieve themselves. You can find out a lot more about crate training and the role it plays in rapid house training on this page. As well opportunities to use the toilet, Labrador puppies need company and socialisation while they are small. So, if you are going to go back to work you need to arrange someone to look after him, or to come in at intervals throughout the day to play with him and take him out. Here are some articles which will be of interest if you are thinking of getting a puppy and work full time:.

Prev Article Next Article Rottweiler is an ancient breed that was used in countless wars by Romans during their reign, later, these dogs found work as guard dogs for livestock and even police dogs. As long as this breed has existed, people have loved Rottweilers, and that is the reason why they can be seen in pretty much every part of the world, including India. The second type is the non-core vaccinations that are given for specific diseases. A Rottweiler puppy Core Vaccinations These crucial sets of vaccinations are given during puppyhood. This is injected into the Rottweiler puppy at the age of 6 weeks, and a booster dose is given after every 21 days until the age of 16 weeks. Generally, the entire vaccination course costs Rs. Rabies: One of the most deadly and yet common diseases found in dogs, it is significantly lower compared to the past, however, it still exists. Rabies vaccination is given to dogs in the form of either 5 shots or 7 shots, with each shot costing Rs. The total rabies vaccination comes out to Rs. Leptospirosis: While some owners skip over this vaccine, it is essential that you must get your dog vaccinated for leptospirosis, as this leads to organ failure. Each shot will cost Rs. Overall, the core vaccination cost for a Rottweiler puppy will cost about Rs. Non-Core Vaccinations There are two other diseases that Rottweilers require additional vaccination against. Lyme disease: In this disease, dogs lose their appetite and have a constant fever. Your dog will need 2 doses of this vaccination that will cost Rs. It is valid for 1 year. Kennel Cough: Also known as Bordetella, it is an upper respiratory bacterial infection. For this, the vaccination can either be administered via nasal drops or injections. Your Rottweiler would require a shot twice a year, and each shot costs about Rs. For the non-core vaccinations, the price comes to Rs. It seems like every time you turn around, there's another shot your pup needs. And keeping track of all the different types of vaccinations can be a real challenge. But don't worry, we're here to help. In this article, we provide a comprehensive A-to-Z guide for dog vaccination in India - covering everything you need to know about what shots are available, when they should be administered, and more! Why vaccinate your dog? There are a number of important reasons to vaccinate your dog. Vaccinations help protect your dog from a variety of serious and potentially deadly diseases. They also help reduce the spread of disease among dogs and from dogs to humans. Vaccinating your dog is one of the best things you can do to keep them healthy and happy and is an important part of responsible pet parenting. So here's a quick rundown of the most common vaccinations dogs need. All dogs should be vaccinated against rabies, and booster shots should be given every one to three years depending on state law. Parvovirus: Parvovirus is a deadly disease that can affect dogs of all ages, but puppies are especially vulnerable. The virus attacks the gastrointestinal system, causing severe vomiting and diarrhoea. Parvovirus can also cause heart problems and death. All dogs should be vaccinated against parvovirus, with booster shots given every one to two years. Distemper: Distemper is a highly contagious disease that affects the respiratory, gastrointestinal, and nervous systems of dogs. It can cause severe coughing, vomiting, diarrhoea, seizures, and death. Puppies are especially vulnerable to the disease. All dogs should be vaccinated against distemper, with booster shots given every one to two years. Leptospirosis: Leptospirosis is a bacterial disease that affects the kidneys and liver of dogs. It can be transmitted through contact with contaminated water or soil. The disease can cause severe kidney damage and death. All dogs should be vaccinated against leptospirosis, with booster shots given every one to two years. Infectious Canine Hepatitis: Hepatitis is a viral disease that affects the liver of dogs. The symptoms can range from loss of appetite and thirst, fever and bleeding. It is usually spread through contact with contaminated or infected urine, saliva or faeces. Non-core Vaccines for Dogs: There are a few vaccines that are considered "non-core" for dogs, which means that they are not necessarily required for all dogs. However, your veterinarian may recommend them based on your dog's lifestyle and risk factors. Bordetella kennel cough is a bacteria that can cause respiratory infections in dogs. It is often spread through close contact with other dogs, so if your dog socialises with other dogs regularly, your veterinarian may recommend this vaccine. Canine ParaInfluenza is a virus that can cause respiratory illness in dogs. It is most commonly spread through close contact with other infected dogs. You might want to get this vaccine once you discuss it with your veterinarian. Lyme Vaccine is used to help prevent Lyme Disease, which is caused by a bacteria transmitted by ticks. If your dog spends time in areas where ticks are common such as woods or tall grass , your veterinarian may recommend this vaccine. Coronavirus: The canine coronavirus CCoV is a virus that can cause intestinal infections and abdominal discomfort in dogs. It is most commonly spread through close contact with other infected dogs, therefore, if your dog socialises with other dogs regularly, you can consider administering this vaccine once you discuss it with your veterinarian. They will need a booster shot every weeks of core vaccines until they are 16 weeks old. After that, they will need an annual booster shot. Email Lately, some people are questioning the effect of certain vaccines causing autism and other chronic illnesses in dogs. But while the debate continues, dog vaccinations for your pug must not be delayed. Just as in the case of a baby, a pug puppy must be vaccinated in the first year of life to ensure protection. But what particular vaccines and when should they be given without sacrificing the safety and welfare of your pet? Source: dogster. While the mother may have complete vaccinations and was able to transmit such immunity to her puppies via milk after whelping colostrum within a hour birthing timeframe, such protection will eventually lose its potency over time. As the puppy grows, its immunity also weakens and must need to be stimulated. This is why vaccinations are usually required by a vet around 5 weeks after birth. These so-called core vaccines are not only essential for pug health and longevity but also for public safety. Some states and countries across the globe actually have policies, for instance, requiring the rabies vaccine to protect the general public from becoming infected with this deadly viral disease. According to the WHO, dogs in general are the main source of human deaths from rabies with up to 99 percent of transmissions coming from dogs. Types of Vaccines and Proper Schedule While the administration of core vaccines leave little room for debate, it is important to note that different vets also follow different protocols in dog vaccinations for your pug. For the first few weeks to months, core vaccines against distemper, parvovirus, hepatitis and rabies will be given to a puppy. This is even more important when you have other puppies at home as rabies can be easily transferred from one puppy to another. Other Considerations Vaccination for your pug is not as costly as you might think. Vaccination cost is widely dependent on the type of vaccines administered and the brand name, too. Another important matter to expect when vaccinating your pet is the initial reaction to the vaccines. Expect pugs to be agitated with a small possibility of allergic reaction. It is also important that recently vaccinated pugs be isolated from other dogs and pets in your home for a week or so. Some people also make good use of titer testing to check if an adult pug needs additional vaccinations. For everything else, always talk to your veterinarian to obtain first-hand relevant info about vaccinations and what to expect thereafter. Incoming search terms:. Three Minutes Jul 20, by MetLife Pet Insurance dog vaccines Vaccines are considered medically necessary for your dog to protect them from viruses, bacteria, and other diseases that can pose major health issues. Depending on when you get your dog and their previous medical history, you may not be immediately responsible for vaccinating them. At that point, they may only have one round or no vaccinations at all, making you responsible for most of them. If you adopt a dog from a shelter or rescue, however, they will often vaccinate the dog before you take them home. Canine distemper and parvovirus are common viruses that are highly contagious to young dogs and can be fatal. The canine parainfluenza virus CPIV is a respiratory virus that is also highly contagious to young dogs. Keep in mind that, depending where you live, you may also want to consider non-core vaccines to protect your dog from factors that may be present in your area. What non-core vaccines should I consider for my dog? This vaccine is recommended for dogs who are boarded, attend doggie daycare, or are otherwise around other dogs. Dogs can become infected by drinking from puddles or other still water where the urine of an infected animal is present. Along with vaccinating your dog, monthly flea and tick preventatives can help defend against Lyme disease. Low-cost dog vaccinations can often be expected when investing in a pet insurance plan. These plans may help offset the cost of care for your furry friend. If your pup faces unexpected illness, consider investing in dog insurance. Application is subject to underwriting review and approval. Like most insurance policies, insurance policies issued by IAIC and MetGen contain certain deductibles, co-insurance, exclusions, exceptions, reductions, limitations, and terms for keeping them in force.

Use tab to navigate through the menu items. Deer Creek Comfort Dogs Shaping future companions for families and those in need of comfort Our family has been raising puppies for over 20 years. Our children have always had a passion for dogs which began our journey and now our grandchildren enjoy growing up with our wonderful dogs by their side. Deer Creek provides emotional support dogs, therapy dogs, service and therapy prospects, canine good citizen dogs as well as family pets. Deer Creek assists our families with puppy selection to help ensure the families get the puppy that will work well with their needs. Someone once said, "Acquiring a dog may be the only opportunity a human ever has to choose a relative" and we hope you choose one of ours. If you are interested in finding your new family member, fill out our puppy application and we will be thrilled to work with you. We recognize that our dogs have the capability of changing peoples' lives on a therapeutic level. Many of our Doodles have become therapy dogs at funeral homes, children's advocacy centers, hospitals and nursing homes, and others have found homes as anxiety, PTSD and emotional support dogs. Learn more about our nonprofit organization Deer Creek Paw Prints at www. Learn More Molly, Rhys, and Beau! Rainmaker Ranch Labradoodle Breeders Mission: To bring families an exceptional labradoodle, exceptional in labradoodle health, temperament and conformation. We have completed all the canine expert suggested labradoodle genetic health testing on all the generations of your labradoodle puppy to ensure a lifetime of health. Labradoodle Breeders since We believe that to breed a healthy labradoodle family companion, then the parents of your labradoodle puppy must also be healthy family companions! We are very careful in ensuring that the parents of your labradoodle puppy have the same temperament you would want in a family labradoodle dog. We are three expert labradoodle breeders working together, we only have one or two Australian labradoodle dogs each and one litter at a time so we can focus on the labradoodle puppies and the families who are adopting them, our labradoodle breeding dogs are loved family pets always living inside with us. We breed labradoodles in our home under the supervision of our veterinarian breeding specialist, we do not cage or kennel our dogs or puppies. Our Australian Labradoodle breeding dogs are members of our family, sleeping on our kids' beds at night, living indoors, and are loved constantly. Our belief is that being a labradoodle breeder is not a right, but a responsibility to the labradoodle breeding dogs and puppies. We only breed fleece coats, soft and loopy. We breed wide body, stocky, silly labradoodle dogs. We do not think labradoodles should look like any other breed; just a cool looking casual dog. We breed labradoodles for non shed and allergy friendly as much as a dog can be coats. Australian Labradoodle Breeders It takes years to develop a solid program of healthy, great temperament Labradoodle parent dogs who in turn bring along consistent, soft fleece coated, incredible Australian Labradoodle puppies. Come visit our home, be greeted by our incredible labradoodle dogs and talk with us about our labradoodle breeding program. This includes everything you need to know about our excellent Labradoodle Puppy breeder Program, from wait list, labradoodle health, labradoodle size, color, available labradoodle puppies, and labradoodle information to prepare you for your new Labradoodle puppy. Their adorable curly fur and expressive faces make you want to cuddle them — and these little guys love nothing more than a good squish. All this and more makes our labradoodle puppies for sale one the most in-demand in our center. Activity-loving families adore these dogs for their propensity towards sports, and anyone who prefers low-shedding pooch benefits from their wooly or fleecy fur. Labradoodle puppies for sale are so cute and come in such a wide range of colors that it makes choosing your new best friend super-hard! While spearheading the Royal Guide Dogs Association of Australia breeding program, he conducted the crossbreeding of a standard poodle and Labrador retriever in view of it being a hypoallergenic guide dog for blind people. The first example of this type of dog, called Sultan, went to live with a lady in Hawaii, where other breeders saw him as an inspiration and this is how Australian Labradoodle puppies started. Both the International Australian Labradoodles Association and the Australian Labradoodles Association of America are working hard to incorporate more intergenerational breeding so these dog breeders can register this type of dog as a purebred dog. Its gentle, obedient and intelligent personality combined with a hypoallergenic coat make it ideal for family members with allergies, but it also makes an excellent service or therapy dog. Labradoodle Puppies Lifespan When properly taken care of, healthy dogs tend to live anywhere from 10 to 13 years. The lifespan of our Labradoodle puppies for sale is slightly above average at 12 to 14 years. Here are the life stages of multigenerational Australian Labradoodles: Puppyhood: First five months Adolescence: Between five months and two years Adulthood: Between two and three years Middle age: Between seven years and 10 years Senior: Over 10 years Labradoodles need the most attention and care in the first and last stages of their life. During puppyhood, their minds are highly impressionable, which is ideal for training. During their senior years, Labradoodles are more susceptible to health problems, which means owners need to keep a watchful eye. Labradoodle Size The size of labradoodle puppies for sale directly relates to the size of their parents and which generation of breed Labradoodle breeders chose. The larger the puppies, the larger the adult dog will be, and the faster their growth will be coming out of the puppy stage. A standard labradoodle puppy will weigh from pounds by the time it reaches two months of age. By a year old, it will have grown dramatically to up to 80 pounds, depending on the size of its parents. Medium Labradoodles occupy a spectrum of sizes between standard and mini Labradoodles, with the specifics depending heavily on the details of the breeding pair that birthed them and the breeding program they come from. Labradoodle Puppies Temperament While Labradoodle breeders originally bred the Australian Labradoodles as therapy dogs, their fun, friendly personalities made them popular pets. Now you can find these sociable dogs in homes across the globe. Here are some of the top personality traits of our Labradoodle puppies for sale. They tend to do best in active households where they can work off all that pent-up energy. You can fulfill their needs through the following activities: Walks or jogs: Labradoodles make great walking companions and can even keep up with you during a jog. Playing in the yard: Enjoy a game of fetch with your furry friend in the yard or just let it loose on its own. Dog sports: If you stay active through sports, consider making your labradoodle a part of your routine. Bring it on bike rides, go for a run together or kick a ball around in the yard. Obstacle courses: Set up an obstacle course for your dog using household items. Scavenger hunt: Creating a scavenger hunt for your canine is a great way to exercise its body and brain. In general, Labradoodles need anywhere from 30 to 60 minutes of exercise a day. You can also enroll them later at a Labradoodle puppy alumni school for proper training. Friendliness What makes Labradoodles the perfect puppy compare to other dog breeds is their ability to get along with just about anyone. They inherit this trait from their Labrador retriever parent, a breed also known for its outgoing nature. You can trust your labradoodle to form friendships with everyone, from children and older adults to strangers and other puppies. Thanks to their affectionate, sociable personalities, Labradoodles make great pets for first-time owners, families, or anyone looking for a companion. Intelligence Thanks to their poodle parent breeds, Labradoodles are incredibly intelligent dogs. Because Labradoodles are intelligent, they often crave mental stimulation. Labradoodle Puppies Grooming Our Labradoodle puppies for sale have a variety of coat textures that dog owners enjoy, but in general, their low shedding coat needs brushing at least twice a week. Not only does this keep them tangle-free but it also removes excess debris from their coat, keeping them fresh and hygienic. Regularly trim the hair around their eyes and in between their paws to prevent these problem areas from causing irritation. Pooches with fleece coats tend to have longer fur and benefit the most from going to a professional groomer — although every dog loves getting pampered once in a while. At Pride and Prejudoodles, we send a can and a bag of the foods we use for free with your hand-delivered bundle of joy. If you need to change it for any reason, it must be done gradually to avoid stomach upsets. Just bear in mind that a diet is such a crucial aspect of wellness that feeding them good quality food will add years to their lives compared to opting for low-quality feed. Pride and Prejudoodles is here to help. We hope you found our guide informative. Please contact us with any other questions you have about our Labradoodle puppies for adoption. Life Span Did You Know? A Labradoodle is a popular designer dog breed. It is a cross between a Standard Poodle and a Labrador Retriever. This designer dog breed originated in Australia around .The main goal of the Labradoodle was to create a hypoallergenic guide dog for people living with disabilities who were also allergic to dog fur and dander. Now, they are still a popular choice for service, guide, and therapy dogs and are also a popular companion dog. Labrador Retrievers and Poodles are both friendly, gentle, intelligent, and affectionate dog breeds. The Labradoodle tends to be similar. They are open and friendly and crave human attention and affection. They are happiest when they are with people. Labradoodles also tend to have an energetic and playful personality. They get along well with children, other dogs, other pets, and strangers. They are alert enough to bark or let you know when someone is at the door, but they are not generally good watchdogs or guard dogs as they are more interested in making friends. A Labradoodle is a highly adaptable dog breed. They do very well in homes with space to run and they can adapt well to apartment living as long as they are given plenty of exercise and mental stimulation. They also do well in most climates. As with any dog breed, they are sensitive to extreme heat and cold. Because they enjoy being around people, they do not generally like to be left alone for long periods of time. They can also become bored if not given enough attention, exercise, or mental stimulation, which can result in destructive behavior. This dog breed is generally healthy, but they do have the chance of inheriting common health conditions from both of the parent breeds. Some health conditions to be aware of include elbow and hip dysplasia, ear infections, progressive retinal atrophy, hypothyroidism, and epilepsy. Good breeding practices can reduce the likelihood of passing on many of these health issues. Be sure to talk with the breeder about the genetic history of the parents and ask to see any health clearances; this can help allay potential health concerns. A Labradoodle tends to be eager to please and highly intelligent, which makes them highly trainable. They are a good fit for dog owners of any experience level. As with most dog breeds, Labradoodles respond best to training that is consistent and uses positive reinforcement. There are some grooming tasks that are common to every dog breed. When it comes to coat care, it can vary with a Labradoodle. Poodles have a low-shedding coat that is also high maintenance in terms of brushing, trimming, and professional grooming. Labs tend to have a higher shedding coat that needs minimal brushing and grooming. For the most part, a Labradoodle will have a low or non-shedding coat that will need to be brushed a few times a week. But, they can have a higher shedding coat should they take after their Labrador parent. You may also need a few professional grooming sessions throughout the year. Nail trimming once a month is usually enough to keep movement comfortable and prevent longer nails from snagging on things. Proper dental care for your dog will help prevent gum disease and tooth decay. Drop-down ears are more prone to infection because floppy ears are more likely to trap moisture, dirt, and debris. This will make grooming throughout their life a much more enjoyable process for both you and your dog. It can even become a bonding time for you both as well. Labradoodles tend to be high-energy dogs. They require a few daily walks plus some time to run and play in order to stay happy and healthy. They certainly love to play and you may tire out before they do sometimes. They may calm down a little as they get to be a couple of years old, but they tend to be quite energetic as puppies. Going swimming with your dog , taking a hike with them, going on a trip to the dog park, playing a game of fetch, and more are all great supplemental activities to ensure your Labradoodle gets plenty of exercise. You can even train them to compete in dog sports like dock diving, flyball, agility, obedience, and more. A fully-grown Labradoodle will usually stand between 21 to 24 inches tall at the shoulder and weigh between 50 and 65 pounds. Labradoodles generally live 12 — 14 years. However, it did not become popular until when the mix was specifically bred to create hypoallergenic guide dogs. Featured Labradoodle Article. What makes a good breeder? Is it cost, location, reputation or something else entirely? A great breeder will do or be willing to do the following. When possible, always do reviews on breeders and try to get word of mouth referrals. The breeder will want to know that you care about the dog and will be a good owner. The best way to be the best possible owner is to be armed with as much information as possible. Here are some important questions you may want to ask the breeder. Ask about any vaccinations or shots the puppy has received, and ask to see documentation. Ask about any health tests that have been done on the parents. Ask about any health issues the parents or grandparents may have had. Ask if the breeder will offer a health guarantee and contract. Ask why he or she sells the puppies and what made him decide to start the Labradoodle breeding business. Ask as many questions as possible about the Labradoodle breed. Ask the breeder if he or she is a member of any Labradoodle associations. Ask if he or she can provide you with references. Ask if the dogs are certified with any Labradoodle organizations. Breeder Red Flags Sometimes when we see a puppy, we instantly fall in love and forget about any questions or concerns we may have had. Or, worse yet, we tend to overlook red flags that are right in front of us because of our excitement over either getting the puppy or getting the puppy at a great price. Here are some common breeder red flags. The breeder tries to convince you his dogs are perfect, and the breed is the perfect breed. No breed is perfect, and every breed has some characteristics that may not be ideal at all times. The breeder will not allow you to come to his place of business or requests that you meet at a different location. Properly socialized puppies will be friendly and inquisitive. The breeder is reluctant to provide you with references. The breeder seems bothered by your questions The breeder is operating a puppy mill or a place where a variety of dogs are sold. Breeder will not provide a health guarantee. A veterinarian has not seen puppies. Breeder is willing or eager to let the puppy go to its new home at around six weeks of age. Breeder states dogs come from healthy stock but cannot provide proof. Breeder cannot show you both parents. Breeder will sell the puppy without a contract. Breeder asks for a deposit before providing any contract or information. When dog breeder are trying to sell their puppies for the highest possible price, they often advertise or tell you things that may not be true. For instance, they may say the puppy comes from champion show lines, but can he prove it? If the breeder says the puppy comes from healthy stock, ask for verification. Has he followed up on previous litters? Unscrupulous breeders will often tout all sorts of positive things about their puppies. Ask for as much verification as possible. If this seems to upset him, find a different breeder. Cost may be a factor, but it definitely should not be the main factor when choosing a breeder. You may be wondering why there is such a variance between the lowest and highest prices. Here are a few things can impact the cost. Bloodlines — Labradoodle breeders who do what they do because they have a love of the breed have dogs of high-quality bloodlines that go back several generations. They can also probably tell you a little something about every dog for several generations back. Experienced breeders do generational breeding to bring out certain qualities and characteristics. For instance, you may want a light colored Labradoodle with a wool coat. An experienced breeder will know what type of dogs he needs to combine to get you the desired Labradoodle. This is generally going to cost more than if you had no preference in what kind of a Labradoodle you wanted to buy. Quality of the Breeder — High-quality breeders often charge higher prices because they offer only high-quality dogs and high-quality services, such as intensive health screenings and health guarantees to name just a few. Age of Dog — The age of the Labradoodle you buy can affect the price as well. The puppies usually come with the highest price tag. In cases like this, breeders may sell them at a discount because they know most buyers prefer puppies. However, an older pup may also come with a higher price if the dog has some sort of training. What this means is that you will have a Labradoodle dog but not one that you can breed. Some believe that females open their eyes before males. Labradoodle puppies usually start weaning between three and four weeks of age. Puppies usually go to their new homes between the age of 6 to 8 weeks, so breeders want to know that the puppy is completely weaned at that time. By doing your research, you may find it easier than you think to find a great Labradoodle puppy breeder. Related Posts:. Usually, the difference between rescuing and buying comes down to the difference between getting an adult and a puppy. But there is another factor worth taking into account, and that is cost. A trained adult dog will be more expensive. Larger donations often include the cost of microchipping and vaccinations. Starting with how to find a puppy from a breeder. So other Labradoodle owners, and your local veterinarian, are both good starting points to ask for recommendations. But there are some organisations that can help. You may even have a local Labradoodle Club in your area, that holds a list of breeders. However you find your breeder, do bear in mind that there is a limit to how thoroughly most Clubs and Associations are able to check out the people in their breeder directories. There are some amazing Labradoodle breeders out there, committed to breeding healthy, high welfare, pups. And there are some less experience or less dedicated breeders that you would be better off avoiding. So how do we tell the difference? Spotting A Good Breeder A good breeder is open, welcoming and honest. They are happy to have home visits. They will come well recommended, and can provide you with references from other happy clients. The puppies will have been vet checked, and are likely to have microchipped this is a legal requirement in the UK. They may have had their first vaccinations. A good breeder will ask you a lot of questions! They will want to know all about your home and lifestyle, to satisfy themselves that you are offering the right environment for their pup to thrive in. They will usually ask for the pup to be returned to them if you find yourself unable to care for them later on. The Importance of Puppy Health Checks All breeders should carry out certain health checks on the proposed parents, before breeding them. These check for common inheritable conditions. By only breeding from suitable parents, we give puppies the best possible chance at a healthy life. When you buy a Labradoodle pup, both parents should have had hip and elbow checks, and a basic eye test. They should have genetic testing for progressive retinal atrophy — an inherited cause of blindness common in both Labs and Poodles. Labrador parents should also have genetic screening for centronuclear myopathy, exercise-induced collapse, and a form of dwarfism called skeletal dysplasia 2. They should be checked for a knee condition called Patella Luxation, as should Toy Poodle parents. Mini Poodle parents should be tested for osteochondroplasia, a severe form of dwarfism. And Labradoodle parents should have all the tests for both breeds. One of them is putting off and delaying producing all that health paperwork for you! However this risks you having to manage an unwell, or even traumatised, puppy for the rest of its life. With all the heartbreak and financial cost that goes with it. And by buying from a puppy mill, you are supporting the owner to go on breeding in this way. The best way to help future pups, is to walk away. And to report the breeder to the relevant authorities. However, it does still happen. Register your interest at relevant shelters and organisations. They may have waiting lists you can join. Shelters and Organisations To Contact Local shelters that take all breeds you may get lucky! Labrador specific rescues Poodle-mix rescues Organizations known for puppy rescue There are a few organisations that specialise in rehoming Poodle mixes. In addition, Labrador or Poodle specific rescues often also take mix breed dogs that have a Lab or Poodle parent. Where Can I Get An Adult Labradoodle Finding an adult Labradoodle to rescue is easier than finding a puppy, but you may still need to be a little patient, as you have a particular breed in mind. Start local, if you can. This makes it easier to meet with the shelter, and your prospective pup. And helps if the shelter like to carry out a home visit. They will want to make sure that your home and lifestyle are suited to an energetic, fairly large, rescue dog. Do your homework before speaking to them. Be ready to explain why you feel a Labradoodle is the right dog for you. Let them know what experience you have with dogs, and what support you have lined up if you are inexperienced. Be honest with them. Shelters are highly experienced at placing dogs with new families. Further Reading To Help You Prepare To help you prepare for your chat with the shelter, you might like to read some of these articles:. We breed multigenerational Australian Labradoodles and American Labradoodles. Our goal is producing loving Australian Labradoodle puppies and American Labradoodle puppies to add to your family: with hypo allergenic qualities, beautiful wavy fleeces and curles and exceptionally smart. A smart dog is a happy dog, they are easily trained which adds to the enjoyment of your new family member. We have chocolate Australian labradoodle puppies for sale, chocolate parti Australian labradoodle puppies for sale merle Australian labradoodle puppies for sale and many other color Australian labradoodles for sale. Our puppies will be smart like their parents who know both hand signals as well as voice commands. Many of our past puppies have become service dogs for Epileptic Seizure Services, Hospice Services, and other Service related settings. Why do our dogs make such Great Service Dog Candidates, our wonderful Rocky passes his wonderful calm demeanor to all of his puppies. Also, many people love the look of our Merle labradoodles - They are absolutely stunning. We tend to have clients in the Chattanooga, Tennessee and Huntsville, Alabama areas that have a found interest in our Miniature Australian Labradoodles and clients in Florida are particularly interested in our Merle Australian Labradoodles. Of course clients in Dallas Texas and parts of Illinois have added our Standard size Australian Labradoodles to there households. Whether clients are on vacation or simply enjoying the local park, It's exciting when we hear reports from our owners that they ran into another Australian Labradoodle that turns out to be a Lord and Lady Labradoodle all over the country. And clients never cease to tell stories of how people they meet rant and rave over there Lord and Lady Australian Labradoodle.