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This food is made for Pugs ages 8 weeks to 10 months. On the other hand, the ingredients list for this food leaves something to be desired. It lists brewers rice as the main ingredient with the second ingredient being chicken by-product meal. For such an expensive Pug food, they sure skimped on the quality of the ingredients! Pros Supports healthy skin, digestive health, and natural defenses Specially shaped kibble is easier for brachycephalic dogs to pick up Cons Brewers rice is the main ingredient 4. It might be expensive, but if you can afford it, it could help keep your pug pup healthy and happy for the long haul. Pros Helps support healthy brain and eye development Contains omega fatty acids for improved skin and coat Lists deboned chicken as the main ingredient Cons 5. Their Wilderness Puppy Grain-Free Dry Dog Food formula takes things even further with higher levels of protein than their original formula. The use of high-quality ingredients in high concentrations is what earns this food its rather expensive price tag. More than just healthy whole-food ingredients, this food is also fortified with healthful nutrients and supplements. Furthermore, it contains an optimal blend of essential vitamins including calcium, phosphorus, and more, to help support healthy bone growth. Pros Contains high levels of protein Uses high-quality ingredients Packed with healthful nutrients and supplements Cons More expensive than most puppy foods 6. We loved the large pound quantity you can buy it in and the relatively affordable price. Others ate the food but had difficulty digesting it. Still, dogs with sensitive stomachs, in particular, would do well to avoid this food. These are our top 5 picks out of 14 recommendations. If your Pug needs a special diet, make sure to check the full list. In addition to picking the best products for your pooch, I outlined my process for choosing dog food. I want you to know what gets inside the furry stomach. While we did our best in finding the best food for the majority of Pugs, you might prefer to pick a more specific formula. While I did my best to find the best food for most Pugs, you might prefer to pick a more specific formula. Their joints, bones, and muscles develop at a different pace. Picking the right food to reduce common Pug health issues — Each dog breed has an increased risk of catching certain health conditions. These health conditions are genetic and Pugs are not indifferent. So make sure to pick the right ingredients to support common Pug health issues. For your convenience, I Dr. Libby Guise shortlisted 14 dog foods. I also noted which food is best for certain life stages or particular health issues. After going through the shortlist, you can find additional considerations that might be of interest to you and your fur-baby. Please keep in mind, while I tried to do my best to find the best food for your Pug, it would be a good idea to understand how and why we made our decisions. The recommendations in this review are not intended to replace the doctor-patient relationship. But pugs have some unique challenges because of their flat faces and compact bodies. They love to eat and can quicklybecome obese. Like many breeds today, Pugs can suffer from bone and joint disorders. Their skin folds also set them up for infections and other issues. And some pugs struggle with stomach issues and allergies. Avoid processed by-products and meat derivatives. Look for complex carbohydrates, including whole grains, sweet potatoes, and other vegetables, to provide fiber and energy. Puppies need more calories to fuel both activity and growth. As adults, the calorie requirements level out. The energy demand often decreases in the senior years when dogs become less active. Puppies: In general, a pug puppy needs about 50 calories per pound of body weight. Adults: Full-grown pugs require about 40 calories per pound of body weight. Seniors: Around years, pugs enter their senior years. Their activity and metabolism levels slow down. Puppies burn energy much more quickly and will need to refuel more often than adults and seniors. Weaned puppies under 3 months should have at least 4 meals a day From months, feed your pooch 3 meals a day From months, and above can have 2 meals a day The Appropriate Nutrition For Common Pug Health Issues Some health conditions are more popular among Pugs than other dog breeds. Each breed inherits some genes that can be associated with certain health issues. Here we list the most common Pugs health issues and how certain nutrients can reduce risk. A quick reminder: if you think your special pal suffers from any of these conditions, schedule an exam with your veterinarian to confirm your suspicions. Even with healthy dogs, these dietary recommendations may help prevent future problems. Portosystemic Shunts The Pug has a high risk for portosystemic shunts. Normally, blood with toxins and waste materials from the body organs travels to the liver for filtering. When animals are born with a shunt, the blood bypasses the liver and heads back to the rest of the body. If your pup has a portosystemic shunt, it may have stunted growth, be lethargic, have a wobbly gait, experience seizures, become aggressive, or demonstrate other symptoms. While surgical correction can help in some cases, medication and special diets can also help stabilize affected dogs. The key is to feed a low-protein diet with quality, digestible ingredients. Eye Problems Those adorable bug eyes can predispose pugs to eye conditions including: Corneal ulcers Cherry eye, usually due to an irritated tear duct Eye injuries Entropion or an eyelid that rolls inwards and irritates the cornea If your pooch has red or watery eyes or seems to be rubbing his face, talk to your veterinarian. But regardless of the underlying condition, you can provide nutritional support for good eye health. Offer fresh, high-quality ingredients from various sources including: Orange vegetables that are rich in beta-carotene, such as pumpkin and carrots Blueberries and other antioxidant-rich fruits Dark green vegetables like broccoli and kale for phytonutrients Oily fish such as salmon and sardines to provide omega fatty acids Avoid foods that have fillers, simple carbohydrates, cereals, and highly processed ingredients. These materials can trigger food sensitivities and allergic reactions that cause dull, runny, crusty eyes. Bone and Joint Problems Due to their specialized breeding over the years, pugs are genetically prone to developing joint disorders including: Hip dysplasia — the hip socket is malformed causing excessive movement in the joint. Over time, the friction damages the cartilage and causes degenerative arthritis. Luxating Patellas — the knee joint is too shallow, and the kneecap pops out of place, usually during exercise. The result is intermittent lameness or hobbling. Over time, there can be damage to the joint cartilage. Legg-Calve-Perthes Disease — inadequate blood flow to the femur causes the femoral head to die and become necrotic. Lameness usually shows up in puppies. The best solution for this condition is the surgical removal of the ball of the femur. Provide high-protein diets using quality, lean muscle ingredients for essential amino acids. The formula should have a proper balance of calcium and phosphorus to support the bones. Products that supply glucosamine and chondroitin promote healthy joint function. Look for healthy fat sources that provide omega fatty acids to help manage any inflammation. Skin Disorders Pugs have a characteristic, wrinkly skin that makes them susceptible to bacterial or fungal infections. Additionally, this breed can suffer from hair loss or alopecia. Look for formulas that are rich in antioxidants, vitamin E, and omega fatty acids. Seizures and Epilepsy Pugs can suffer from epilepsy and seizures, which are sudden surges of brain activity. If your furbaby has signs like muscle tremors, twitching, or loss of bladder or bowel control contact your veterinarian for a work-up. Proper nutrition that can help support your furbaby includes: Healthy, quality fats including sources of omega 3 and 6 fatty acids. These ingredients help to manage inflammation and may help to decrease the severity and frequency of seizures. Because allergies can trigger seizures, avoid common allergens such as soy, dairy products, and gluten-containing materials. Provide protein-rich products with quality ingredients and digestible complex carbohydrates to provide adequate energy. This condition involves inflammation and death of brain tissue. Symptoms include: Circling. And the total number of dogs all breeds in the reports are .So while this is something that should be monitored and many more studies need to be done, it's important to keep in mind that this is a very small number compared to the estimated 77 million dogs in the U. The latest update is that there are no recalls at this moment that are linked to this issue. The Best Food for Pug Puppies and Adults What to Avoid: Quite a few ingredients that are found in a lot of dog food brands can be severely detrimental to a Pug and cause everything from allergic reactions itching, rashes, wheezing, running eyes, etc. Corn which includes as corn germ meal, corn gluten meal, and corn bran High grain counts which includes high levels of wheat, oats, barley, and other cereal grains which may be listed as hominy feed. Rice can be an exception; with rice, the hull, bran layer, and cereal germ is removed and for this reason, rice is often tolerated very well. By-products which are animal body parts deemed unfit for human consumption and can include brain, lungs, undeveloped eggs, and more. Generic meats or oils which can legally include roadkill and deceased zoo animals. What to Look For: All-natural preservatives; there are vitamin blends that work very well to preserve dog food and this often will show as mixed tocopherols. Natural flavoring Protein will come from wholesome animal sources including chicken, turkey, lamb, fish, bison, and beef. There will be no by-products or generic meats. If you offer grains, gluten-free grains are usually best. No other fillers or controversial additives. Helpful extras such as glucosamine and chondroitin beneficial for joint health , omega-3, 6 for healthy skin and coat , probiotics for immune health and antioxidants to help prevent disease. Some of the best food for Pugs includes: Best Formulas with Grains: 1. Wellness Complete Health for Small Breeds. The base of this kibble is turkey and oatmeal which is easy on the stomach for most Pugs. There is also salmon, brown rice, peas, carrots, spinach, sweet potatoes, blueberries, and apples. There are excellent levels of a wide-range of vitamins and minerals, good levels of omega-3 and 6, and glucosamine and chondroitin which are extremely beneficial joint supplements for Pugs. This is made in the US. Note that this offers puppy and adult formulas as well as 'healthy weight' for Pugs that need to lose a few pounds, and a senior formula. This line of Halo offers holistic recipes. This one has non-GMO produce and meats that are antibiotic-free and hormone-free with factory-free farming. The grains in this are oatmeal and pearled barley which are generally known for being well-tolerated. This is sized ideally for Pugs, and has no artificial additives, by-products, or corn. And, this is made in the US. Best Grain-free Formulas: 1. This is one of the best grain-free kibbles for Pugs; it's really top-of-the-line. The base is chicken and turkey. There is a wide selection of vegetables and fruits compared to some other brands spinach, broccoli, carrots, kale, sweet potatoes, apples and blueberries. Levels of omega fatty acids are ideal, via both salmon oil and flaxseed. And, there are good levels of glucosamine and chondroitin which as mentioned earlier are important for joint health. There is no corn, wheat, by-products, fillers, or artificial coloring, flavoring, or preservatives and this is made in the USA. This is another excellent choice that is formulated for dogs under 70 lbs. There are several great bases including lamb, beef, chicken, and salmon. There are zero chemical preservatives and no artificial ingredients. Added extras are healthy antioxidants, omega-3 and 6, and the very important glucosamine and chondroitin which are very beneficial for breeds like the Pug that are prone to joint and hip issues. This is a holistic kibble that offers non-GMO veggies and fruits and sustainably-sourced wild-caught fish and is ideal for Pugs that are carrying a few extra pounds. The base is salmon and whitefish, so most dogs love the taste. There are no chemical preservatives, corn, by-products, coloring, or fillers. Switching a Pug onto a Different Food If you just got a new Pug puppy, you may want to feed your little guy or gal something different than what was being given. And in many instances, this will be a good idea. The sooner you start your pup on a superior food that you've chosen yourself, the better. If you have an adult Pug, you may decide to switch foods due to an intolerance to certain ingredients some dogs do best with certain proteins like beef as opposed to chicken or vice-versa or maybe you realized that your Pug was not on the brand and you want to make a change. No matter the circumstances, if at all possible, it is best to change to a new brand of dog food in a gradual way because a quick switch can disrupt the digestive system. The goal should be a incremental change over the course of 3 weeks. Home Cooking Owners decide to home cook for their dogs for a variety of reasons: It can be less expensive; though, this depends quite a bit on what you buy and if you can purchase ingredients in bulk. It may be done to fully avoid preservatives, additives, by-products and other subpar ingredients; you know exactly what you are putting in. This can help avoid an intolerance or allergic reaction to an unknown ingredient. It is very flexible and adjustable. It can be a good choice for picky eaters. Other sources include beans such as lima beans, kidney beans, and butter beans must be cooked. Vegetables - This includes peas, carrots, spinach, zucchini, green beans, bell peppers, and butternut squash. You can also offer asparagus, kale, cauliflower, and broccoli in moderation since these foods can cause gas, Pumpkin in moderation is fine but typically reserved to help ease upset stomach issues. Fruits - This includes blueberries, raspberries both are low calorie, high in antioxidants, and water-packed , strawberries, huckleberries, banana, cantaloupe, honeydew melon, mango, kiwi, pear, peaches no pit , plums no pit , nectarines no pit , fresh pineapple, and apple no core, no seeds. Additional - This includes oatmeal plain , white or brown rice if no intolerance , quinoa, potato, sweet potato, cottage cheese, plain whole white yogurt, and eggs most dogs do best with scrambled eggs vs. Read more about home cooking for a Pug. Snacks and Treats We've covered the frequency of giving snacks and treats, but let's recap. Dry snacks, meant to satiate a dog in between meals should be given 3 to 4 times per day. And moist treats, meant to reward training and reinforce good behavior, should be given as needed. Now, the question remains on what to offer. All snacks and treats should be held to the same high standards that you have in place for your Pug's meals, meaning no synthetic preservatives, artificial coloring, artificial flavoring, soy, corn, by-products, high wheat levels, or generic meats. If your Pug's calorie intake needs to be carefully watched due to issues with weight gain, there will also be a need to opt for some low-calorie treats. And, to see more options, including moist treats for giving reward, continue on to the best snacks and treats for Pugs. After 2 to 3 days, if the problem has resolved, adding in additional ingredients can be done. Any diarrhea lasing longer than 3 days or moderate to severe vomiting lasting more than 12 hours should be brought to the attention of the veterinarian. Water Different elements will dictate just how much water a Pug dog requires , though a general rule of thumb is that each day, dogs need to drink about 1 ounce for each 1 pound. Offer bottled spring water or use a filter device like the. Related Articles: When a Pug is a Picky Eater - If you find yourself constantly scrambling to find foods that your Pug likes and their taste buds seem to change weekly, this will help you get things back on track. When a Pug is Always Hungry - If your Pug's appetite is ferocious and nothing seems to satisfy, these issues may be at the root of the problem. When a Pug Won't Eat - If your Pug puppy or dog refuses to eat or getting them to eat feels like a chore, these tips will help. How to Stop a Pug from Begging - If your Pug wants your food and is relentless about getting it, these guidelines will help stop this sort of behavior. Top 10 Pug Dog Eating Problems - A roundup of the most common eating-related issues seen with this breed and exact steps to resolve them. Do you have your book? All rights reserved. Privacy Policy We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon. Although certain health issues that Pugs may experience are congenital and beyond our control, others can be influenced by environmental and lifestyle factors, such as diet. Some of the most common health issues faced by Pugs include the following: Food allergies. Certain ingredients in their food can cause allergies in Pugs. Food allergies in Pugs may present as dry, itchy skin, ears, or paws. However, unlike allergies, food intolerances do not involve the immune system but can lead to vomiting or diarrhea. We highly recommend conducting an at-home dog food allergy test like the 5Strands kit. This particular kit can test for up to ingredients and determine which ones may cause food intolerance in your dog. Once you receive the results, you can use the list to avoid dog food formulas that contain potential allergens. Brachycephalic obstructive airway syndrome BOAS. Due to their compressed noses and flat faces, Pugs are prone to breathing difficulties and an inability to cool down easily. Eye problems. Pugs are at risk for various eye health issues, such as distichiasis, cataracts, dry eye, entropion, corneal ulcers, progressive retinal atrophy, and more. Ear infections. Pugs have narrow ear canals and deep skin folds around their face, making it easier for debris and bacteria to accumulate, leading to ear infections. Skin infections. Skin fold dermatitis is common in breeds with wrinkled skin, such as Pugs. Luxating patella. Pugs are susceptible to luxating patella, where the kneecap moves out of its normal position. Mast cell tumors MCTs , a type of skin cancer, are common in middle- to senior-aged Pugs, with cancer being the leading cause of death for the breed. Pugs are prone to obesity, which can exacerbate other health issues. Pugs are also susceptible to diabetes. Pugs are prone to obesity, leading to numerous health issues and decreased activity levels. A proper diet and sufficient exercise are crucial to keeping your Pug at a healthy weight. Overfeeding or providing nutrient-poor food can contribute to weight gain, which may result in a Pug becoming less active and more lethargic. More active Pugs require more calories and nutrients to sustain their energy levels, whereas less active Pugs require fewer calories to prevent weight gain. Pug Puppies. Require a diet that is higher in calories and protein to support their growth and development. They also need a balanced calcium and phosphorus diet for healthy bone growth. Feeding high-quality puppy food formulated explicitly for bulldog puppies can help ensure they receive the necessary nutrients during this crucial stage. Adult Pugs. Require a diet that is lower in calories and protein to maintain their weight and prevent obesity. They also need a balanced diet of carbohydrates, fats, and proteins to support their overall health and energy needs. Senior Pugs. Senior dogs may require a diet lower in calories and fat to maintain a healthy weight and higher fiber to support digestive health. Senior dog foods often contain joint supplements to help mobility and joint health. Avoid common allergens. Pug often develops food allergies or intolerances, so it may be helpful if your dog food is free from common allergens, such as corn, wheat, chicken, and beef. Pugs can have sensitive digestive systems. Look for a dog food that adds probiotics to its formula. Dog probiotics support a healthy digestive system and immune system. Pugs can be prone to digestive issues, so look for dog food that is minimally processed, such as fresh dog food or homemade dog food for Pugs. Lower-quality kibble may contain fillers, artificial preservatives, and other ingredients that can be harder to digest and may cause digestive upset in some dogs. Easy-to-eat kibble size and shape. Brachycephalic breeds like Pugs have shortened skulls that can cause breathing and eating difficulties. Opt for dog food with a small, flat, or round kibble shape that is easy for Pugs to pick up and chew. Balanced Omega-3 and Omega-6 fatty acids. Omega fatty acids can help support healthy skin and coat, reducing the risk of skin infections around the face and ears. They also help with skin inflammation and support healthy and shiny dog coats. Foods rich in antioxidants such as beta-carotene, lutein, and vitamins A, C, and E can help protect the eyes from oxidative damage. These nutrients are found in many fruits and vegetables. Low-glycemic carbohydrates. To help manage obesity and diabetes, choose dog food containing low glycemic carbohydrates, such as sweet potatoes or legumes, which release energy slowly and help maintain stable blood sugar levels. Low-calorie content. Joint support supplements. Look for dog foods containing joint support supplements such as glucosamine, chondroitin, and MSM, which can help maintain joint health and reduce the risk of a luxating patella. Chapter 2: The Reviews. Introduction Importance of choosing the right food for Pug puppies Feeding your Pug puppies the right food can significantly impact their health, growth, and overall well-being. A balanced diet provides the necessary nutrients and energy to support their growth and development and helps to prevent common health issues such as obesity, digestive problems, and food allergies. Factors to consider when selecting the best food for pug puppies When choosing the best food for your Pug puppy, there are several factors to consider, including their age, activity level, and specific nutritional needs. Reading the ingredient list and checking the nutritional content can help you to make an informed decision about the best food for your Pug puppy. Wet Food for Pug Puppies Benefits of wet food Wet food is an excellent option for Pug puppies as it is highly palatable and provides additional moisture, which is important for their growing bodies. Wet food also contains higher levels of protein and essential nutrients, making it a great option for supporting the growth and development of your Pug puppy. Best-reviewed wet food options Royal Canin Pug Puppy Wet Dog Food — This wet food is specifically formulated for Pug puppies, with a balanced ratio of protein, fats, and carbohydrates to meet their unique nutritional needs. Blue Buffalo Life Protection Puppy Wet Dog Food — This wet food is made with real meat as the first ingredient and contains wholesome brown rice, barley, and oats to provide the carbohydrates your Pug puppy needs to grow and develop. Dry Food for Pug Puppies Benefits of dry food Dry food is another great option for Pug puppies as it helps to clean their teeth and promote good oral health. Dry food is also a good source of essential nutrients and energy to support the growth and development of your Pug puppy. It contains a balanced protein, fats, and carbohydrates ratio to meet its unique nutritional needs. Blue Buffalo Life Protection Puppy Small Breed Dry Dog Food — This dry food is made with real meat as the first ingredient and contains wholesome brown rice, barley, and oats to provide the carbohydrates your Pug puppy needs to grow and develop. Homemade Meals and Snacks for Pug Puppies Benefits of homemade food Homemade meals and snacks are an excellent option for Pug puppies as they allow you to control the ingredients and ensure that your pup gets a healthy and balanced diet. Simple homemade meal and snack recipes for pug puppies Puppy-Friendly Meatloaf: Mix ground turkey or chicken, brown rice, carrots, and green beans for a tasty and nutritious homemade meal for your Pug puppy. Bake in the oven until fully cooked, and serve in small portions. Homemade Puppy Treats: Mix rolled oats, pumpkin puree, and a beaten egg for a simple and healthy snack for your Pug puppy. Roll out the dough, cut it into bite-sized pieces, and bake in the oven until crispy. Use high-quality, fresh ingredients, and avoid using spices and seasonings that can harm dogs. Store leftovers in the refrigerator or freezer to maintain freshness. A: Wet food can provide a higher moisture content, which can benefit Pug puppies as they need to stay hydrated. Wet food also has a more appealing taste and smell, making it a great option for picky eaters. Q: What ingredients should I look for in dry food for Pug puppies? A: Look for dry food that contains high-quality proteins like chicken or fish, whole grains, and fresh fruits and vegetables. Q: Can I feed my Pug puppy homemade meals and snacks? Q: How often should I feed my Pug puppy? A: Pug puppies should be fed 3 to 4 times a day until they reach six months of age. Then, they can be fed two times a day. The food they need will depend on their age, weight, and activity level. Q: What is the best food for Pug puppies with sensitive stomachs? A: Wet food with simple ingredients, like boiled chicken and rice, or dry food specifically formulated for sensitive stomachs can be helpful for Pug puppies with digestive issues. Q: Can I feed my Pug puppy adult dog food? A: No, adult dog food does not provide the appropriate nutrients for Pug puppies as they are still growing and developing. Puppy-specific food is formulated to meet their unique nutritional needs. Gradual changes over a few days to a week are recommended to avoid discomfort. Conclusion Recap of the best food options When choosing the best food for your Pug puppy, several options exist. Dry food is also a good option as it helps to clean teeth and is easy to store. Final thoughts The most important thing is to choose a food specifically formulated for Pug puppies with high-quality ingredients to meet their unique nutritional needs. Choosing the best food for your Pug puppy will give them the foundation for a happy and healthy life. From pet nutrition books to online articles, a wealth of information is available on this topic. These resources will give you a deeper understanding of the nutritional needs of your Pug puppy and help you make informed decisions about the best food options for their growth and development. How much and often to feed The best food for Pug puppies is easy to swallow, but still provides them with a complete diet. Because while this adorable dog is partially popular for that cute little face, their flattened features make finding the right food a little trickier. Chewing and Swallowing Pugs are brachycephalic , which means that they have been bred for their wider muzzles. This flat face makes it tricky to breathe, even more so while they are trying to eat. Pugs are also prone to retained deciduous teeth. Again, making chow down more of a chore. Nutrition Matters Pug puppies have different nutritional requirements to adults. They need more fat and more protein, along with additional amino acids and minerals. They should also have more omega-3 fatty acids such as DHA for brain and eye development. Feeding growing puppies the right balanced commercial diet can help keep them healthy. What is the Best Food for Pug Puppies? Puppy food is good for puppies, of course, because it includes more energy-intensive ingredients. However, you should be cautious. Research shows our understanding of specialist dog foods needs to be more nuanced. For example, researchers have found that even dogs within the same family had a 20 percent difference in energy requirements from their food. It also showed that temperature may play a role in their needed energy requirements. Basically, your dog has individual needs that must be balanced against each other when it comes to health and growth. But Pugs are one of the breeds that may be able to benefit from specialist dog foods. This is because of their conformational and health issues, and their low energy level. Bespoke meals may be able to address their obesity issues and come in sizes that are easier for their teeth to pick up. The formula supports skin and digestive health as a Pug puppy is growing, but without adult natural defences. This formula is designed to be easy to digest. It also comes in a variety of shaped pieces, which should help your pup to pick it up. Designed with protein-rich chicken, wholesome whole grains, and garden veggies and fruit. This specialist food uses natural ingredients and great quality designed to support the healthy growth and development of puppies. The grain-free puppy formula features farm-raised chicken. It is designed for easy digestion and weight management in young dogs. The kibble is small so puppies of small breeds can pick it up more easily. High-quality ingredients include a blend of veggies and fruit. The Puppy Stew version of this puppy food for small breeds provides balanced nutrition for little dogs under a year old. The formula includes high-quality lean protein. It promotes healthy digestion, and comes in a tiny peel and serve tray with the exact serving for a small pup. The formula used to create this chicken, oatmeal and salmon recipe supports complete, balanced health. Wellness Complete Health uses a guaranteed level of minerals to promote bone growth. It contains natural sources of DHA for brain development and has more protein for building muscles. Pugs gain weight easily. In such small dogs even 1 lb. And extra weight can exacerbate the breathing problems that pugs may already have. The amount of food a Pug puppy needs depends on a lot of factors, including age and activity level. You should feed a puppy four times a day, until about 6 months of age. Then you are able to reduce to three or two times if you like. However, we selected them for inclusion independently, and all of the views expressed in this article are our own.

Some of these may be genetic, while others can be environmental. Here are some factors that affect labradoodle puppy growth. Genetics No matter what breed of dog it is, genetics plays a very important role in the growth of a puppy. Labradoodles are a mix between Labrador Retriever and Poodle. These dogs share genetic traits from both parents. The size of a labradoodle depends on its Poodle parent. For example, if the Poodle parent is a toy or miniature, you will get a mini and medium-sized labradoodle. However, if the Poodle parent is standard size, you will get a standard-sized labradoodle. Nutrition Selecting a nutritious diet for your Labradoodle puppy is essential to his well-being and development. Giving him all of the nutrients he needs to flourish and grow. Puppies are in a period of rapid growth, so they require more nutrients for bone and joint development than adult dogs. Puppies who receive adequate nutrition grows to their full potential. When feeding your pup, make sure the food contains all essential nutrients as well as the right levels of fat and protein. Your veterinarian can advise you on the ideal food to provide them with. Physical Activity Labradoodles are high-energy dogs that need plenty of exercise and mental stimulation to stay healthy. If not given enough exercise, they could develop health issues such as obesity, diabetes, or heart disease. When your puppy is young, it is best to limit their exercise as excessive physical activity can cause joint damage that will impact their development later in life. Walking and jogging are two activities that puppies enjoy doing, but these should only be done in small amounts in order to protect their joints. Health The growth of Labradoodle puppies also depends on their overall health. Labradoodles may suffer from health conditions that hinder their growth, such as hip dysplasia and elbow dysplasia. These conditions make it difficult for them to walk or lead an ordinary life. So, make sure you buy a Labradoodle puppy from a reputable breeder and screen them for any health issues. It is also advisable to take them for regular vet visits. Many new pet parents often wonder what size their Labradoodle will be when they grow up. For Labradoodle puppies, puppyhood lasts from birth until about five or six months old. During this stage, you will see a massive growth spurt in Labradoodles. They will keep growing until they reach adulthood. However, this may not always be the case; some may need additional pounds to gain before reaching this milestone. Conclusion A Labradoodle is a designer hybrid dog created by crossing two breeds — Poodles and Labrador Retrievers. As such, these dogs possess high energy levels, are friendly, and are highly affectionate. If you are planning to get a Labradoodle puppy or already have one, it is essential to monitor their growth, as their size can be drastically affected by certain factors. With some simple formulas, these charts may even allow you to predict their future weights. These links are affiliate links, so if you do end up using the links, I will earn a commission. Dog Food: Every dog needs to eat correctly, and finding the best food for your dog can be challenging, as the market is absolutely flooded with products. These days I have two adorable fuzzy rascals around me, that ensures I get plenty of exercise and laughter throughout my day! Legal Information The owner of this site, LabradoodleHome. This site also participates in other affiliate programs and is compensated for referring traffic and business to these companies. Labradoodle Home does not intend to provide veterinary advice. All articles and posts are aimed at giving users a better understanding of their dogs. The content on this blog is not a substitute for veterinary guidance. Amazon OneLink. How does the Labradoodle growth chart work? The following numbers are estimates based on the litter of a Labrador Retriever crossed with a standard Poodle. If your pup's Poodle parent is a toy size, then they are likely to be significantly smaller than these estimates. Their health is what matters most, so if you have questions or concerns about your puppy's development, reach out to your veterinarian. At what age is a Labradoodle fully grown? Labradoodles typically need 12 to 18 months to reach their full size, especially if their parents were on the heavier side of the average weight spectrum. Large breeds grow slower and take longer to reach their full size compared to small and medium-sized dog breeds, which usually reach maturity within nine to 11 months. How big should a 6-month-old Labradoodle be? A 6-month-old Labradoodle may weigh anywhere between 40 and 55 pounds. As a general rule, male Labradoodles weigh more than their female counterparts. In terms of height, a 6-month-old Labradoodle puppy will stand around 14 to 18 inches tall at the shoulders, but this varies based on their genetic makeup. Pro Tip: Download our new puppy checklist for tips on how to set up a vaccination schedule, essential pet care supplies, and more. How much bigger will my Labradoodle get? There are a few ways you can estimate how much more your Labradoodle may grow. Most Labradoodles need anywhere from 12 to 18 months to reach their full size. If your pup is younger than a year old, they are likely still growing. Refer to our Labradoodle weight chart to estimate how many more pounds they might put on as they mature into adulthood. If they look oversized compared to their limbs, then they're probably still filling out. Oversized paws are a classic puppy feature indicating that your pup still has more growth underway. Lastly, if you purchased your puppy from a breeder, you can contact them about your Labradoodle's weight. Alhough the breed varies greatly in size, knowing the weight of your puppy's parents and those of previous litters can help you predict your Labradoodle's adult size. What is the size of a full-grown Labradoodle? As a hybrid dog breed, Labradoodles vary significantly in size based on their geneology. Per Agape Labradoodles , adult Labradoodles typically weigh over 45 pounds, with some Labradoodles weighing as much as pounds. However, most Labradoodles will weigh between 50 and 90 pounds. In [terms of height], Labradoodles stand 21 to 24 inches tall when measured from paw to shoulder, or approximately two feet excluding their neck and crown of the head. How do I make sure my Labradoodle is healthy? Our Labradoodle puppies are important, cherished family members who we want the best for. One of the best ways to help your Labradoodle thrive is by taking them to regular veterinary appointments to have them routinely checked out and evaluated. Prevention is always better than treatment, and regular veterinary exams provide your veterinarian with the opportunity to screen your Labradoodle for disease. Your puppy will need to see the veterinarian several times in their first six months of life for core vaccinations against things like Rabies, and then at least once a year as an adult for annual health check-ups. Like their parents, Labradoodles are also more susceptible to hip dysplasia , a common orthopedic condition that occurs when the hip joint forms improperly. Hip dysplasia can lead to pain in their back legs, impaired mobility, and even lameness if not treated - fortunately, the condition is treatable with surgery. When over 20, pet parents were surveyed, only .As loving pet parents, it can be devastating to think that our four-legged friend could develop a painful disease that requires expensive treatment. This is where pet insurance comes in. Most pet parents opt for accident and illness pet insurance plans as they cover both injuries and most illnesses, such as hip dysplasia or eye diseases. Pet wellness plans can be added to your insurance coverage to help you pay for preventive veterinary care, like your regular vet exams, x-rays , dental cleanings , vaccinations, and more. Like humans, dogs are living longer, which creates an even bigger need for excellent veterinary care so that our dogs can live their happiest and healthiest lives. Pet insurance helps alleviate the financial strain that's often caused by vet visit costs. If your Labradoodle puppy gets sick or hurt, you and your veterinarian can work together to provide your pup with the best treatment plan - without worrying about how much it might cost. Key Takeaways Adult Labradoodles weigh pounds on average. The parent Poodle breed has toy and standard size variations that impact the size of the offspring, along with other genetic factors. Most Labradoodles grow until months of age. The breed is known for several congenital health disorders, and is especially prone to hip dysplasia. Pet insurance can protect your puppy and provide a financial safety net for vet costs throughout their life. Do you want to find the best pet insurance? Let's analyze your pet's breed, age, and location to find the right coverage and the best savings. Analyze My Pet About Pawlicy Advisor The pet insurance marketplace endorsed by veterinarians, at Pawlicy Advisor we make buying the best pet insurance easier. The Labradoodle was one of the very first designer dogs. The first planned Labradoodle litters were born in Australia in the late s. A Labradoodle has the potential to be a great family pet, and so they have remained one of the most popular mixed breed dogs. Although these curly haired dogs are frequently described as hypoallergenic, this is actually a myth. However, they do usually shed less than other breeds. If they are your first puppy, you might be surprised just how much time and energy is required to care for something so small. Even though this is an exciting time, it can also be frustrating. Challenges include everything from housebreaking and crate training to socialization and constant chewing. Remember that everything is brand new for your furry companion. Consistency and schedules are key to meeting navigating the next few weeks and not getting overwhelmed. Like any mixed breed, there is an element of unpredictability when it comes to what a Labradoodle puppy will look like. They can take on a combination of traits from either parent, and even within a single litter, puppies can vary in size and appearance. The list of colors they can come is almost endless. Labradoodle puppies with a Standard Poodle parent typically weigh between 7 and 12 lbs at 8 weeks of age. But miniature Labradoodle puppies may only weigh 4 to 7 lbs. Just like for human babies, sleep is very important for puppies. To help them settle overnight in your home, keep them in a crate or high-sided box by your bed for the first few nights. Potty Training Your 8 Week Old Labradoodle For most people, potty training is the first hurdle when they get home with a new puppy. At 8 weeks old you can expect your Labradoodle to need to pee at least every 2 hours. Young dogs have small bladders, and very little conscious control over when they go. Even the most diligent puppy parents find a few wet spots on their floor at the beginning, but visiting the backyard regularly will keep accidents to a minimum. Be consistent and praise your pup whenever he uses the toilet in the right place. Clean up mistakes quietly and without scolding. They might also overcome that fear by hiding from you to pee indoors. Feed your puppy the same food they had with the breeder for about 2 weeks. Then slowly mix it with the new food, gradually increasing the proportion of new food over the course of a week. For the time being, an 8 week old puppy needs their daily ration of food divided into four meals. But you might use most of it up as training treats! It can also trigger short spell of diarrhea. Small, regular meals prevent hypoglycemia, which is when blood sugar levels become dangerously low. Your pup also needs a food which is designed to meet the specific nutritional needs of growing puppies. This will protect him against conditions like hip dysplasia. Hip dysplasia is a malformation of the hip joint. There are hereditary and environmental factors which can make it worse — and one is if their diet causes their bones to grow faster than the cartilage in between them. An 8 week old Labradoodle will have all their baby teeth, and though tiny, they are very sharp and deliver a painful nip! Wear close fitting clothes in sturdy fabrics, and shoes without laces for the time being. If they try to chew your fingers, take your hands away and give them a suitable substitute like a chew toy. Puppy biting generally ceases at around 6 months once they have all their adult teeth. Crate Training Your 8 Week Old Labradoodle When done properly, crate training provides a safe den for your puppy to rest in. It can also help with toilet training, and keeping your puppy safe while your bring in groceries or take a shower. And 8 weeks old is a great age to start this process. To ensure he views his crate as an inviting place to be, furnish it with a cozy blanket and treats. From 3 weeks old until about 12 weeks old, puppies are in an important phase called the socialization window. They are more open forming positive impressions of the world around them than they ever will be again. So this is the time to introduce them to all the people, places and things they will encounter as adult dogs. Make sure all these introductions are happy lots of treats! And they will carry that happy association with them through the rest of their life. As Your Labradoodle Puppy Grows Labradoodles are known to be sociable, easy-going, devoted, and highly energetic. Training should be positive and consistent. But working out where to start can be bewildering. There are lots of books and online resources available, as well as puppy classes led by qualified dog trainers. The Puppy Parenting course in particular is the perfect guide to preparing for, settling in, and starting training with a new puppy. Tell us all about them in the comments box down below! Our puppy growth chart and calculator has your answer! Size is largely determined by genetics. Size is inherited in non-linear ways in dogs and other animals. Some puppies stay much smaller than both parents, some become much bigger, and some are in the middle. While size is already hard to predict in purebred dogs, it becomes even more erratic when two breeds are crossed such as in any Doodle mix litter. Labradors are large dogs. They can have a heavy build with deep chests and a wide rib cage. Poodles on the other hand are rather dainty, even though they are tall. Especially in the first generation of a Labradoodle litter that means a generation whose parents are a purebred Poodle and a purebred Labrador , there will be a greater variation of size. The smallest and the tallest puppy of the litter might be as much as 20 pounds apart in weight! That being said, most Labradoodles weigh somewhere between 45 and 65 pounds and are inches tall. Because they are a mixed breed, they are not recognized by the American Kennel Club and have no breed standard that requires a certain size. At what age is a Labradoodle fully grown? As a large dog breed, Labradoodles grow past their first birthday. The smaller a dog, the sooner he is finished growing. Some very small breeds can stop growing around months. Since the Labradoodle is tall, expect him to continue growing until about months of age. At 12 months, most tall dogs are lanky teenagers! By the time your Labradoodle is 2 years old, he will definitely be done growing. How big is a 6 month old Labradoodle? At 6 months old, your Labradoodle will weigh about pounds. He is definitely not fully grown yet — expect him to become quite a bit taller and heavier in the coming months. As your Labradoodle puppy is growing up, his coat will become longer and thicker as well! Make sure you bathe and brush him regularly. Trimming his coat regularly with a good set of clippers will be very important as well! Ensuring healthy growth Here is what you can do to set your Labradoodle up for a healthy growth and solid adult weight: Nutrition and feeding Without the right nutrition, your pup cannot grow well. You need to feed your Labradoodle a high-quality food with a lot of protein. Protein is what our bodies are built of — your growing pup needs a lot in order to grow tall and strong. You can choose from a variety of different foods, such as: Dry food.

Buying a Doberman Shepherd puppy for a very low price usually indicates they came from a puppy mill. Here are some reputable breeders where you may find Doberman Shepherd puppies for sale: AKC Marketplace — A great way to find a Doberman German Shepherd mix is to trace it back to its parent dogs. Vom Hismerh German Shepherds and Dobermans — Having been in the industry since , this breeder imports their top-quality dogs straight from Germany. All of their dogs are of show quality and free of defects, ensuring that your next Doberman Shepherd mix is healthy. A quick search on this site yields over a hundred listings for Doberman Shepherd puppies! Aside from the sources above, check out our comprehensive list of Doberman and German Shepherd breeders for more options. You might be able to score local shepherd dogs near you! If it seems complicated to find a reputable breeder in your area, or if you want to save some cash, you can try your luck with adopting Doberman Shepherd puppies instead. Illinois Doberman Rescue Plus — While this non-profit organization primarily focuses on Dobermans, they also accept other official breeds and mixed breeds. If you adopt a Doberman Shepherd from this rescue, you can be assured that your future companion dog is already neutered, vaccinated, and treated for heartworms. To help you further, check your local German Shepherd rescues since they are more likely to cater to mix breeds than Doberman Pinscher rescues. As a bonus, check out our ultimate dog adoption guide. Here, you can learn extremely helpful tips about acquiring rescue dogs to make adoption a breeze! First, here are the advantages of owning a Doberman German Shepherd mix: Their appearance is enough protection. While most dog owners are simply in awe of the striking looks of the Doberman Shepherd, some people are intimidated by this dog breed. Being seen with this loyal guard dog may be enough to deter robbers. Doberman Shepherds are natural bodyguards. They may act all soft and friendly with human family members, but this dog will go head-on with any threats. Although the Doberman Shepherd has more potential to harm humans than other dogs, they receive commands quite well. Training will be even easier since they make it a goal to please their masters. Indeed, the Doberman Shepherd is a good balance of brains and brawn. Now, here are the disadvantages of owning a Doberman German Shepherd mix: Their size might be too much. A mix of this size is challenging for first-time dog owners. Apart from consuming a lot of food, Doberman German Shepherds are prone to breaking items in your home if bored. Additionally, a larger dog can be brushed and bathed more often due to its larger stature. Doberman Shepherds may develop serious health problems. Doberman German Shepherds are prone to various severe health problems. Moreover, most of their diseases are very expensive to treat and require intense medical attention. They have higher energy levels compared to other dogs. Doberman German Shepherds are indeed the offspring of two highly energetic parent breeds. If you cannot keep up with such liveliness, you might end up with chewed-up furniture and broken glassware. Doberman Shepherds have both advantages and disadvantages strongly correlated with their size and intelligence. Other Canine Clubs Adoptapet. You could also attend professional dog shows, contact or join dog clubs, or talk with a veterinarian who may know or refer a Doberman German Shepherd mix breeder to you. Since the dog would appear like its Doberman parent dog, its short hair does not result in excessive shedding. The Doberman German Shepherd does not like bathing in water, so the dog should be trained to tolerate bath time during puppyhood. This dog shampoo is biodegradable and made of a coconut cleanser, oatmeal, and aloe. It is made of aloe and oatmeal and helps in maintaining a healthy and shiny coat for the dog. The dog shampoo also has a pine scent and is a hundred percent satisfaction guaranteed. Do not forget about maintaining the nails of the dog. Just like many dogs, the Doberman German Shepherd mix also needs its nails trimmed using specialized nail clippers for dogs. The occasional cleaning of the ears and brushing of the teeth should be done as well. Regular exercises and occasional visits to the vet is recommended to prevent the following health problems: Cardiomyopathy. This umbrella term covers both Dilated Cardiomyopathy and Hypertrophic Cardiomyopathy. Dilated Cardiomyopathy, or Enlarged Heart, is a disease that affects internal organs and results in lung and heart failure. Hypertrophic Cardiomyopathy, or Heart Disease, is a rare case of blood distribution problems by the heart in dogs. The symptoms of Cardiomyopathy include abnormal breathing patterns, anorexia, lethargy, coughing, blueish skin discoloration, and loss of awareness. Wobbler Syndrome. Scientifically named as Cervical Spondylomyelopathy, wobble syndrome is a predisposed condition in large dog breeds such as the Doberman Pinscher. It is described by a bone malformation in the cervical spine which is located on the neck of the dog, resulting in wobbly walking and neck pain. Hip Dysplasia. This is a genetic illness that is common to many dogs in general. In other cases, obesity and improper nutrition and diet can contribute to the development of hip dysplasia as well. The hip joints of the dog slowly deteriorate and could result in skeletal malformation. Megaesophagus is generally characterized by the enlargement of the esophagus in dogs. It is a congenital or inborn, disease that causes problems in traveling food from the mouth to the stomach. Some signs and symptoms include vomiting, weight loss, anorexia, and bad breath. Degenerative Myelopathy. This disease is described as the slow degeneration of the spinal cord in the dog. It may eventually result in paralysis as well. Warning signs include a steady weakness of hind limbs, stumbling, inability to stand, muscle atrophy, poor hygiene, stress, and depression. Separation Anxiety. Part of viewing a health issue should not only remain within the physical aspect. The Doberman German Shepherd mix is also prone to mental disorders like separation anxiety. This occurs when its owner spends less time with the dog despite its deep attachment and loyalty with the person. The Doberman German Shepherd mix does not necessarily have any health issues or illnesses that were explicitly pointed out. Nevertheless, the sicknesses and health problems that were mentioned above can still be passed on to the offspring derived from the genes of both parent dogs. Doberman Shepherds Food Requirements As a big and energetic breed, the Doberman German Shepherd mix may eat plenty of food and become obese if the dog is not supplemented with proper nutrition and a balanced diet. It needs to consume substantial amounts of protein and a moderate amount of carbohydrates and fats and is fed twice a day depending on the activities that the dog did during the day. Feeding your German Shepherd Chow mix should have a balanced diet just like any other dog. You should consult with your veterinarian about these dog foods and devise a holistic dietary plan. Too much protein is too much calorie for the dog and may result in too much weight. Your hairy companion deserves the best, so choose the highest-quality dry dog food in the market you can find. Whelps need the energy to be active, and lots of vitamins and minerals too. Food that rounds off everything their body needs is on the best puppy food brands list. Older canines have different necessities, so take a look at the best senior dry dog food list. It will help them stay strong and show off proudly. You can also find useful ideas on the best dry dog food for small dogs or best large breed dry dog food lists, which may contain some food that your pooch will adore. German Dobermans Exercise Requirements This is an active and energetic dog with parent dogs that were bred for working. The Doberman German Shepherd mix requires a substantial amount of exercise to channel and release its stored energy. Intellectual activities are also sufficient sources of mental stimulation for the dog. Below are some activities for the dog: Racing. A team of four dogs is set on the course that fetches a tennis ball through an obstacle course and returns the ball to its handler. The first team to complete the task with all their dogs wins. Like the Doberman and the German Shepherd, the Doberman German Shepherd mix can significantly benefit from this activity. Since most dogs live in urban settings, herding allows the dog an opportunity to utilize its herding instincts that were long unused. Military Training. Sending the dog to the military is an advantage for the dog to act on command and the owner to gain leadership points. On the softer side, the dog may be used as a service dog for war veterans or soldiers who are suffering from PTSD. Scenting or Tracking Games. The German Shepherd parent dog side of the German Shepherd Chow mix was tracking dogs that loved to hunt things. Some games include finding the treat, hide and seek, and find the toy. Both the Doberman and the German Shepherd are renowned guarding dogs and, and its offspring are more likely to display aggressive behavior towards suspicions and threats. The dog should learn how to safely interact with different people and animals, especially with children. Here are some training methods that you could apply to the dog: Socialization. The Doberman German Shepherd mix is a dog with a bold disposition. The dog needs to be exposed with children and other animals and dogs as a puppy to help expand its sense of protectiveness and guarding instincts towards others. The dog will eventually learn new social skills and become more mature to regulate its aggressive tendency. Positive Reinforcement. Rewarding your dog while teaching it commands can come a long way to its relationship with you. You give your dog a reward such as a treat or a toy whenever it successfully responds to your command but gives it nothing until it learns how to react correctly to your call. Puppy Training. The most important part of training the dog as a puppy is giving it your time and company. This should teach your dog the value of your bond with it and will soon acknowledge you as its alpha. Let it play with toys that you give so that it learns that being with you is a rewarding experience. Knowing how to address this reaction of the dog on its guarding instincts is vital before it grows older. But the Doberman German Shepherd mix is also a loyal and affectionate dog once it grows up. It may even feel emotional when its owner deprives the dog of reciprocation or companionship. They make excellent guard dogs and make intruders think twice before barging into your house. The dog needs a backyard space to deplete its energy levels throughout the day. It is not an ideal dog for people living in an apartment since the dog may always feel insecure and wary of strangers that walk the hallways every day. It may even act more aggressively to different people who you interact with and affect your social life as well. If your family lives in colder states and have fewer opportunities to bring out the dog, then it is not a suitable dog for you. Altogether, the Doberman German Shepherd mix makes a fearsome but loving family dog. The important thing to remember is that it is a dog that will protect the family with its life no matter how dangerous the situation could escalate References:. Should a Doberman Mix take after their Doberman Pinscher parent, they will be a large, powerful, and protective dog that is affectionate with their families. They may look imposing as they grow, but they are playful, energetic dogs that can make great family pets. Doberman Pinschers are quintessential protectors. As such, they require a lot of training and socialization to become a happy, well-balanced, and well-mannered dog. A properly socialized and trained Doberman is fiercely loyal to their families and is also a loving companion with a fun personality. As long as they are properly trained and socialized, they tend to get along well with children, other dogs, and even other pets. If a Doberman Mix takes after their Doberman Pinscher parent, then you can expect a similar temperament. However, the other parent breed will likely introduce some other potential traits and quirks, so you do want to ask the breeder about them. You can also meet the mother dog in-person to get an idea of her temperament and to see the behavior she is modeling for her puppies. The breeder should be starting socialization and training. Dobermans are moderately adaptable dogs. Because of their large size and high energy, they are better suited to homes with yards where they can run. They can adapt to apartment living, but you will need to dedicate a lot of time every day to making sure they get the exercise and attention they need to be happy and healthy. Doberman Pinschers do well in most climates. As with any dog breed, they are sensitive to heat. Because of their short coat, they may need to bundle up in some winter dog products to stay warm on walks during the winter. They also do not like to be left alone for long periods of time. If the other parent breed is similar in terms of adaptability, then you can expect the same from a Doberman Mix. You still want to ask the breeder about the other parent breed so you have a better idea of what mix of traits and quirks a Doberman Mix puppy could end up with. Mixed-breed dogs are sometimes healthier than purebred dogs. The other parent breed will have their own set of potential health concerns, so you want to ask the breeder about them. Reputable breeders will screen their dogs to help avoid passing issues on to puppies. So, you should be planning to ask about the health and genetic history of both of the parents anyway. You can also ask about any relevant health tests or clearances that have been done. Doberman Pinschers are also one of the dog breeds at a higher risk for developing bloat and a Doberman Mix will likely have the same risk. Bloat in dogs is a serious condition that can quickly become fatal if gastric torsion occurs. Although Dobermans are highly intelligent dogs that pick up on things quickly and are eager to please, they are also strong, powerful dogs with a strong will as well. If they are not socialized properly or well-trained, they can become unmanageable, destructive, and pushy. Because of this, a Doberman Pinscher is usually better suited to more experienced owners. Novice owners can do well with this breed, but obedience classes or enlisting the help of a professional trainer is highly recommended. The other parent breed could make a Doberman Mix easier or more difficult to train. Make sure you ask the breeder about them and then be prepared to enroll in training classes either way. A mixed-breed dog can inherit a coat similar to one of their parent breeds or a coat that is truly a mix of both. Should a Doberman Mix end up with a Doberman coat, it will be short and will shed a little year-round. A quick daily brushing and the occasional bath is enough to keep this coat healthy. Good dental care for dogs is often overlooked, which is why gum disease is one of the most common health issues in dogs. Brushing teeth or using an enzyme toothpaste every day helps prevent painful dental diseases later in life. A Doberman Pinscher is a high-energy dog breed that needs a lot of exercise to be happy and healthy. Daily walks plus playtime and time to run or another activity are usually enough for this dog. But, they are happy to be active with you, so they will likely be up for activity if you are. These dogs are powerful, athletic, and versatile. So, once puppies finish growing , you can try a wide variety of activities with them. You can try hiking, swimming, running, playing frisbee, training for dog sports, and more. If the other parent breed is also a high-energy dog breed, then you can expect your Doberman Mix to be a high-energy dog as well. Even if the other parent breed has a lower activity level, you will still need to be prepared for the potential of a high-energy dog. A fully-grown Doberman Pinscher is usually inches tall and weighs pounds. The other parent breed can affect this, so you want to ask the breeder about them and also pay attention to which breed is the mother. Although it is not a guarantee, you can also meet the mother dog in-person. This can give you some idea of what size to expect in a fully-grown Doberman Mix. A Doberman generally lives for years. The other parent breed may affect this slightly, but you can likely expect a similar life span in a Doberman Mix. Featured Doberman Mix Article.

I love Working-Line German shepherds and am constantly amazed at what they can do. My wife and I have had German shepherds in our family since the early stages of our marriage 26 years ago and counting. They truly have been part of our family. My job at Brave and Faithful K9 is very glamorous, and I am always in the spotlight:. It is absolutely cool to support my daughter in her dream to train, trial, and raise Working-Line German shepherds. I am the website designer which I have found is just an extension of all those years of manual scrapbooking that I did of my kids and family.This really just means that I work with the dogs in any way that is helpful and that I clean, clean, and clean more: kennels, dogs, crates, vehicle, yard, house, etc. What I have come to enjoy the most are the wonderful people that we have met on this journey. We have been gifted with amazing clients for our puppies. My prayer and heart's desire is that in some small way we have touched the lives we have gotten to serve through our business and that JESUS can be seen in all that we do. For the Glory of Our Lord! I love the German shepherd breed, and it has always been my dream and passion to raise, train, and produce these extremely intelligent creatures. Starting our family business was the beginning of making that dream a reality. It has been a major learning experience for me-almost like discovering a whole new world. There is always a new training method to learn and I am constantly trying to figure out how to perfect each of our dogs in their obedience, tracking, and protection work. My first priority as the dog trainer is to honor God in everything that I do; in the end, it is God who makes things prosper, and that is what I cling to. I am very blessed and excited to be a part of our family business and look forward to what the future holds for us. She loves our country and the ideals that it was founded on and has encouraged all of us to develop the interests and gifts that we naturally have through personal ingenuity. She has traveled with us all over. She is part of our family business in an indirect way…just humbly behind the scenes. We credit her for planting the vision in our minds that we could ever possibly have our own family business one day. What would we do without the generations that have come before us! Questions about German Shepherd puppies for sale in Oklahoma? We have answers. How much do your German Shepherd puppies for sale in Oklahoma cost? The price you pay for your German Shepherd puppy can be affected by various factors. Start by searching for German Shepherd puppies for sale in Oklahoma, and try and find one that matches your budget. Will I be limited to searching for local litters? Not when you search here! You can begin by looking for Oklahoma German Shepherd breeders. How do you go about screening breeders? We only want the very best breeders of German Shepherds for sale Oklahoma in our network, so we have a strict screening process in place. Check out our Breeder Pledge to find out what you can expect from the breeders and companies in our network when you search for Oklahoma German Shepherd puppies for sale. What makes Uptown Puppies different from other places online? We are committed to connecting loving families with pups that have been properly raised by top breeders. So you can search for German Shepherd puppies for sale Oklahoma with complete peace of mind knowing that you are avoiding the backyard breeders. These are places where profits are put above everything else, including puppy welfare. As a result, pups often end up with health problems, and that can cost you thousands extra in vet bills. What if I want to find a specific type of German Shepherd? Start here, look for German Shepherd breeders Oklahoma, and see what you can find. How can I trust you? We are committed to connecting loving owners with healthy, happy puppies. We love puppies and we want to help find loving homes for them—homes like yours! Will I find it easy to train my German Shepherd? These dogs are keen to learn new things and they are utterly devoted to their owners. You can therefore expect to have a lot of fun with training when you get your German Shepherd Oklahoma. Can I get a German Shepherd if I live in a small apartment? Do that, give them lots of love, and your dog will be very happy. I want to thank God for all that he has allowed me to accomplish with my dogs. I also want to thank all that have purchased from me through the years. While in Honduras our dogs were mainly watchdogs. They acquired quite a reputation. One of the females that we raised there, earned one point towards an International Championship. The first Shepherd I showed and titled in the USA was a very nice male that we bought in the summer of , while back in the states on a visit. When we moved back to the states in I became very interested in showing my dogs. After learning a few things I entered my first show in and have been showing ever since. What I want in my dogs is stability and versatility. I prefer a mixture of American show lines and German show lines. This has worked well for me. My dogs are neither too soft like some American show lines , nor do they have too strong of a prey drive like some German show lines. Most people that want a great companion dog cannot handle the really strong prey drive that some shepherds have, and for that reason I prefer the combination. I believe the combination produces dogs, that can do all the work that is asked of them. If you are interested in one of my puppies, please contact me. I have to warn you, when you purchase a puppy I come with the package!! Smile I will be here for you when you have any questions. If I do not know the answers, I certainly will try to find someone who can help!!

Some of the links in this post are affiliate links, which means I may receive a commission if you click on a link and purchase the item. This comes at no extra cost to you. Wish your golden retriever puppy would stop biting so much? Puppy nipping is one of the most frustrating things about raising a new puppy—their teeth are razor-sharp, it hurts when they bite, and they can ruin your clothes! But why do puppies bite so much? Puppies bite to learn acquired bite inhibition, or ABI. What exactly is ABI? He might leap up and bite you because you hurt him and scared him. But the important thing is this: how hard will they bite? This is where ABI comes in. So ABI is really important. Now the question is, how do they learn it? The only way for puppies to learn ABI is to bite, and bite often. The best teachers are other dogs. Next time they bite a little less hard and playtime continues. This is how they learn ABI. Obviously, it takes a lot of repetition of this scenario to happen for a puppy to learn not to bite so hard, but this is essentially how it works out. Yes, you will need to help teach your puppy ABI. You can do this two ways: Set up puppy playdates and take them to puppy kindergarten so other puppies can teach them ABI. You actually want them to bite a little bit and learn to control how hard they bite. That being said, letting them go on a biting rampage is not helping the situation, so here are five tips to help you stop your puppy from biting so much: 1. Socialize your puppy Other dogs are the best teachers of ABI so make sure to get your puppy in kindergarten and set up playdates with dogs that you know are vaccinated. Remove yourself from the situation Puppies can often be over-stimulated or over-tired. One thing we did with our puppy, Oliver, when he got in these moods was to go sit at our high-top table in the kitchen and ignore him until he calmed down or distracted himself with a chew toy. Exercise your puppy A tired puppy is a good puppy. Young puppies have weak jaws, so if they had dull teeth, a bite from them would be no big deal. Most adult golden retrievers bite out of fear and a professional can help you properly handle it. Puppy Biting vs. Chewing Puppy biting or nipping is when a dog purposefully bites you. As we already talked about, they need to do this to learn ABI. Puppy chewing, on the other hand, is when puppies chew on things to relieve the pressure in their mouths from their adult teeth coming in. Since puppies bite and chew for different reasons, you need to handle these problems differently. Mentally wear them by out by training them, going for long walks and letting them sniff around, and giving them puzzle toys or frozen kongs. Remember that a tired puppy is a good puppy. A: It can take up to six weeks or more for your puppy to learn ABI and what is appropriate to bite or not. If it takes longer than six weeks, just remember to be consistent with the steps to stop it and have faith that it will slow down soon. Q: Is puppy biting an act of aggression? A: Most puppy biting is a form of play. It helps them learn ABI. If you think your puppy is biting out of aggression, then you should talk to a professional. Q: Why are puppy teeth so sharp? Q: What is ABI? A: ABI is acquired bite inhibition, or the natural ability for a dog to not bite so hard. Q: Do all puppies bite? A: Yes! Instead, they need to learn to control their bite force, then learn to bite less. Have any questions about puppy biting? Let me know in the comments below! Related articles:. Are you a proud new golden retriever puppy parent or considering getting a furry friend? While puppies are adorable and full of energy, they can also be a handful, especially when it comes to biting. This article will cover practical strategies to manage puppy biting and help you and your pup develop a solid and loving relationship. Thus biting is natural. Their bites will become softer as they practice and learn to manage their bite strength. They will eventually stop biting entirely. While biting is a natural part of the learning process, it is essential to train your puppy not to bite excessively. Here are a few tips to get you started: Providing Chew Toys for Redirecting Biting Behavior Providing chew toys is an excellent approach to help your puppy stop biting. When your puppy begins to bite you, remove your hand or foot and replace it with a chew toy. This teaches them that biting is acceptable, but only when done with toys, not people. It is essential to keep an eye on your puppy when they play with chew toys to ensure they do not consume anything toxic. By exposing your puppy to a variety of people, animals, and environments in a controlled and positive manner, you can help them develop proper social skills and reduce biting tendencies. Socialization helps puppies learn appropriate bite inhibition and establishes boundaries for acceptable behavior during interactions. Through well-planned socialization experiences, you can guide your puppy towards becoming a well-behaved and gentle companion. Employing the Time-Out Strategy for Persistent Biting Use the time-out strategy when other methods fail to stop your puppy from biting. If your puppy continues to bite, place him on a time-out for 30 seconds before allowing him to return to play. This teaches your puppy that biting is unacceptable and will result in a loss of playtime or attention. Again, use a gentle tone and avoid shouting or scolding your puppy. When your puppy plays gently with their toys instead of biting you, shower them with praise and perhaps even a tasty gift! This teaches your puppy that good behavior leads to beautiful things. Instead, concentrate on encouraging appropriate behavior and redirecting any inappropriate biting. Your puppy will learn to control their biting and play in a friendly and safe manner with time, patience, and positive reinforcement. This entails repeating the same commands, techniques, and rewards each time you train. When you do this, your puppy learns what is expected of them and how to get rewarded. On the other hand, if you are inconsistent, your puppy may get confused and unsure of what they need to do to please you. This can make training more difficult and frustrating for you and your puppy. So, strive to be consistent in your training. However, they can get nippy during their fun exploration of the world around them. The good news is that this is a natural habit for pups, and there are ways to deal with it. Puppies prefer to bite to initiate play, learn more about their surroundings, and adjust their bite pressure, especially when they are teething. These actions are part of how they play, interact, and learn about their environment. First, however, puppies must be taught how to control their biting pressure and redirect their biting to appropriate toys and chew objects, which we will discuss later. Puppy bites, for example, can become more painful and even harmful as they increase in size. Additionally, it might lead to destructive chewing if you do not divert their biting habit to appropriate chew items. As a result, it is critical to address this habit early on through regular teaching and positive reinforcement. Understand what motivates them and what makes them more likely to engage in biting. Adjust your training methods: Not all puppies respond to the same training techniques. Some may respond better to positive reinforcement, while others may require more redirection and distraction. Consider their energy levels: Golden Retrievers are known for their energy and enthusiasm. Be patient and consistent: Training takes time, and each puppy learns at their own pace. Be patient with your puppy and provide consistent guidance. Remember, every Golden Retriever puppy is an individual, and what works for one may not work for another. With a customized approach, you can effectively address biting behavior and set your unique puppy on the path to becoming a well-behaved and happy companion. So, most puppies begin to bite and mouth less frequently when they are 8 to 10 months old. However, this varies greatly depending on the individual pup. Some may stop sooner, while others may take a little longer. Golden retrievers, for example, love using their tongues. At the same time, herding dogs such as border collies or corgis may continue to nip at ankles as they age. Just keep working with your pet and providing the guidance they require to create positive habits! Conclusion As you begin the joyful road of raising your Golden Retriever puppy, keep in mind that training and socialization are essential for producing a happy and well-behaved dog. You can teach your puppy what is expected of them and create healthy behaviors that will last a lifetime using consistent and positive reinforcement techniques. Remember that each puppy is unique, and what works for one may not work for another. You will be rewarded with a devoted and well-behaved companion if you are patient and committed to the training process. Remember to give your puppy enough exercise and mental stimulation and to continuously reward positive behavior. You can help your puppy grow into a happy and healthy adult dog who will provide you happiness for many years by doing so. By the time your puppy reaches around three months of age, they should start to develop bite inhibition and learn to control the force of their bites during play. As you continue to interact and train with your puppy, you can gradually increase your sensitivity to the level of bites you find acceptable. By the age of four or five months, their play bites should no longer exert any force. Can I use physical punishment to stop my puppy from biting? Certainly not! To stop a puppy from biting, never use physical punishment. It is not only ineffective, but it can also be harmful and cause long-term behavioral issues. Instead, train your puppy using positive reinforcement techniques, including redirection, time-outs, and excellent rewarding behavior. What can I do? Puppies frequently nip and bite while playing with other dogs, but teaching them to control their bite force is essential. My puppy is teething. What can I do to stop them from biting? Teething is a normal developmental stage for puppies , and they naturally want to chew and bite things. Similar to what we discussed earlier. Galen has been connecting quality Golden Retriever breeders with loving families since and is the founder of My Golden Retriever Puppies. He and his wife have four children and love spending time together, traveling lived oversees for 4 years , enjoying the outdoors and connecting Golden families. Be the first to know when we have new puppies! All Rights Reserved. They Are Naturally Mouthy Golden Retrievers are a mouthy breed, to begin with, they are naturally inclined to pick up and hold anything and everything in their mouths. While it may seem like there is something wrong with your puppy to cause him or her to bite so much, rest assured, all puppies bite, not just Golden Retriever puppies. Play Behaviour When you see a litter of pups play together, they often nip and bite at one another. It is their way of socializing and initiating play. Your puppy will bite and nip at you during playtime with you because it is a natural behaviour to them. They Are Teething Many people associate puppy biting with teething, however when a puppy is teething they will resort to chewing and mouthing in order to relieve their pain. They may chew or mouth on your hands and fingers, but teething is not the cause of biting that every puppy owner experiences. Puppy biting is most often just play. To summarize, puppy biting is normal and should be expected as a puppy owner. In general, biting will naturally subside in Golden Retriever puppies around the age of months. This is around the time that their adult teeth have come in. Puppies at this age usually already know how to moderate their bite, and will not bite or nip at you as much as they did when they were younger. While biting anything and everything is normal behaviour to your puppy, it is not something that you want your puppy to continue to do. It is up to you to teach your puppy not to bite humans, especially children. Take a look at the common mistakes puppy owners often make, and learn to avoid them. Puppies who are excited bite more. Children often fall victim to the most puppy bites because they get very excited around puppies and this just gets the puppy going which results in biting. Any attention that you give your puppy after they bite you will seem like a reward to your puppy, and the biting will just continue. Yelling at your puppy, pushing them away, talking to your puppy, or even looking at them is giving them the attention that they want. Bite inhibition is when your puppy learns how to control the strength of his bite. Puppies learn this skill when they are with their littermates, which is why they need to stay with them and their mother until they are 8 weeks old. Playing with their littermates teaches puppies that biting too hard hurts and will end playtime. The puppy then learns to bite softer. When your puppy comes home with you, it is up to you to teach your puppy how to control the force of their bite. Biting down on the thick fur coat of his mother or littermates is a lot different than biting down on human skin. By not teaching your puppy bite inhibition, you will risk your puppy turning into a dangerous adult. Puppy bites are a lot different than adult dog bites. Once your puppy learns how to control the strength of his bite, eventually the bites become gentler, and in time, your puppy will learn to stop biting altogether. This is part of teaching your puppy bite inhibition. This is a way to mimic how puppies play together, when one puppy bites another puppy too hard, that puppy yelps in pain, and will walk away. In some cases, puppies could get even more worked up by the noise and keep on biting. This is when you need to walk away. When your puppy has calmed down, you can resume playing with your puppy. When your puppy bites you again, repeat the steps of yelping and walking away. Eventually, your puppy will learn to soften his bite, because biting too hard ends playtime. The following video discusses why puppies bite, how to teach bite inhibition and how to survive puppy biting. It is a good idea to have a few chew toys on hand to offer up as a distraction from your skin. Check out this list of the best teething toys for puppies. This will get your puppy to stop and focus on being obedient. A great way to solve boredom is by going for a walk with your puppy. How much exercise should you give your Golden Retriever puppy? A good rule of thumb is 5 minutes of exercise for every month that your puppy is alive. So a 3-month-old puppy should get 15 minutes of exercise a day, a 5-month-old puppy should get 25 minutes per day, and so on. This is in addition to and not instead of playtime. Bitter Apple Spray can also be used to prevent your puppy from nipping and biting at you. Before you interact with your puppy, spray it on your arms, legs, pant legs, or sleeves, anywhere that your puppy likes to nip at you. Once your puppy bites at you, he will get a bad taste in his mouth and will stop. Bitter Apple Spray may not work on all puppies, some may actually develop a taste for it. I know that when my Golden Retriever Ellie was a pup this stuff worked amazingly well, but as she got older she developed a taste for bitter things such as crab apples which are extremely sour and she once sucked on a vinegar packet that was lying on the ground! Reward Good Behaviour Every time your puppy stops biting and nipping at you, you need to see this as positive behaviour. Good behaviour should be rewarded so that your puppy learns that he did something good. Rewarding good behaviour with affection and praise is great, you can also use treats, or toys, sometimes the best reward for your puppy is just spending time with them. Be Patient and Consistent Owning a puppy requires a lot of patience! It is so easy to lose your patience at times, but you need to know that your puppy is learning what is right and wrong, and that takes time. It might not happen overnight, but as long as you remain consistent and patient, your pup will learn good behaviour. If your puppy is nipping at your pant legs or sleeves, chances are he is loving the tugging feeling and is actually already playing tug-of-war. Instead of using your clothing, redirect his attention to a rope toy. One thing to be careful of is being too rough with tug-of-war, especially when your puppy is going through his teething phase. A game of fetch offers your pup a distraction from biting, and Golden Retriever puppies naturally love to retrieve things. This is a great way to also teach your puppy to drop it, by offering a treat when your puppy drops the ball or rope toy. A well-socialized puppy will be less likely to exhibit any unwanted behaviours later on. Enrolling your pup in puppy kindergarten or arranging some play dates with other dogs who are friendly and vaccinated is a great way for your pup to learn social skills. Other dogs are sometimes the best teachers for a puppy because they will let your puppy know what is okay for play and what is not okay, in terms of biting and nipping. Always supervise your puppy while playing with other dogs. Yelling at your puppy will only make your puppy scared and confused as well as lose trust and respect for you. Common mistakes people make when their puppy is biting are pushing them away, clamping down on their mouths or spraying them in the face with water. All of these are a bad idea! Your puppy could see this behaviour as a form of play and continue biting and nipping at you even harder. If you remain calm and use a firm voice not yelling , your pup will see you as in charge. Puppies and dogs often exhibit the same behaviour as we do, if you get upset and start yelling, your puppy will just get even more excited. As unpleasant as puppy biting is, it is normal behaviour. Your puppy biting and nipping at you with a mouth full of shark teeth may seem aggressive, but it is most often just out of curiosity and play behaviour. Golden Retrievers are known for their calm and gentle demeanour, but there are rare instances where you may have an aggressive puppy on your hands. Puppies who have been taken away from their litter earlier than weeks, bad breeding, being abused, a chemical imbalance, and not being socialized are all reasons for aggression in puppies. Signs of an aggressive puppy include barking, growling, lunging at you or another dog, a stiff posture, and showing teeth. If you think your puppy is aggressive, it is important to work with a professional dog trainer or behaviourist in order to find out the reasons for aggression and work on correcting the behaviour before it gets worse. It is important to keep your calm and work with your puppy to teach him the important skill of bite inhibition, and to redirect his biting to more appropriate behaviour. Socializing your puppy, as well as rewarding good behaviour will all help to turn your puppy into a well-behaved dog. Have you tried any of the tips mentioned above? Do you have any other tips to stop Golden Retriever puppy biting? Share your thoughts and comments below, as well as any questions you may have. I would love to hear from you. Jenny I am the proud owner of a Golden Retriever named Ellie. She keeps me busy, and when she is resting, you can find me working on my blog. She is always close by though. I live in Stirling, ON Canada with my husband, and we both enjoy the never a dull moment life with our Ellie. Spread the love. You are bound to want to know when your biting puppy will grow out of this phase and how you can speed that process up. Biting, as you will have discovered is usually accompanied by lots of noise! Why do puppies bite? So why do puppies bite? My puppy is biting hard Puppies do bite hard and it does hurt. But I want to reassure you that even at 8 weeks old, your puppy has learned to moderate his bite in play. Puppies have powerful jaws designed to tear through flesh and crush bones. Those of you who feed your puppy a raw diet will know that even an 8 week old puppy from a medium sized breed can crush bones the size of your little finger. He is deliberately attempting to be gentle. Puppy Biting — Bite inhibition This ability, that your puppy has, to moderate the power of his jaws in play, is called bite inhibition. It is something that his mother started to teach him when he was just a few weeks old. And now it is your turn to take over and complete the training process. Growling and Puppy biting One thing that often worries people who have a new puppy in the family, is the growling that accompanies puppy biting. It sounds horrific. Great snarls and snaps accompany the biting and the puppy can appear quite demonic as he grabs onto your skin, or clothes. Tugging away with all the strength he can muster. Ninety nine times out of a hundred this is completely normal play biting. Is my puppy biting aggressive? You cannot determine whether or not a puppy is biting aggressively by how hard he bites or by the volume of the noise he makes. Play biting puppies bite hard and growl fiercely. Some puppies do occasionally draw blood. But these are not normally savage or crushing bites and the puppy is clearly enjoying himself. Fierce but fun! The play biting puppy will launch himself at the target of his bite. Whether it is your slippers or your fingers, with equal tail-wagging enthusiasm, hanging on grimly and grabbing repeatedly when the item is removed from him. All this, shocking though it may seem, is normal, and is not a sign that your puppy is going to be an aggressive dog! In fact some of the gentlest and most amiable breeds the labrador for example are the worst and fiercest play biters. The puppy that is a cause for concern is the puppy that is frightened. Because although puppies rarely bite through aggression, the nervous puppy may become aggressive as he matures Is my puppy afraid? A scared puppy may bite and scared puppies can grow into scared adult dogs so this is something you need to address quickly. You will know that your puppy is scared because he will try to avoid whatever it is he is scared of. A really frightened puppy will sometimes give off a distinctive musky smell. This hiding, and retreating, and the scared smell are warning signs that you have scared your puppy badly, or purchased a poorly socialised puppy. In this situation you need to get specialist help right away. Your vet should be able to advise you. For the vast majority of puppy owners then, biting is normal puppy behavior. Will my puppy biting stop naturally? To some extent biting is a phase caused by natural puppy playfulness and teething. Some puppies do stop biting with very little input from their family. Which is great. You may feel he should have grown out of it by now. We can physically prevent puppies from biting and we can train puppies not to bite. Both of these are good strategies. Or when children are getting upset, or visitors are winding your puppy up. Prevention usually involves interrupting the biting behavior, then redirecting the puppy into an alternative and more acceptable behavior, such as chewing on a toy. Or, it may involve temporarily separating him from his playmates. Interrupting the puppy biting In mild cases you may simply be able to put a toy in your biting puppy's mouth and get him tugging on that instead of on your fingers. If you are on the floor with the puppy stand up. And if you are standing up, turn and walk away from the puppy. This is where dog gates come in very handy with small puppies. A standard baby gate works fine for most breeds of dog. Managing the puppy You may have to pick up your biting puppy to remove him from the scene if he is biting your children for example, rather than you If he bites your hands and clothes as you try to restrain him, put him on the other side of a barrier or in his crate or puppy playpen for a short while. Although the puppy does learn from them, these are useful management techniques to enable you to control the situation. They help you to keep your puppy calm, and prevent the biting escalating through over excitement. Over-excited puppies Puppy play biting is directly linked to excitement. The more excited your puppy gets, the more and the harder he will bite. And the harder it will be to interrupt and distract him. Rough play excites puppies and noisy play does too. Children tend to squeal when they play and get very physical with puppies. One of the first rules they need to learn when playing with dogs, especially big dogs, is to stand up and stand still when the game gets too much. Limit such play and call a halt to it if your puppy is biting. With medium to large breed dogs, physical rough and tumble play is not a great idea. It can lead to dogs bowling people over or humping them, neither of which is very pleasant. Stopping play when it gets rough is a good management strategy and it is a form of training too. Over time, your puppy learns that biting and rough play loses him his playmates and that people simply leave if he is being mean. When do puppies stop biting? Many puppies have stopped biting completely by six months of age and biting is usually subsiding by the time that the puppy is heading towards five months old. This is if the puppy has been managed appropriately If people have been exciting him, or rewarding him for attention seeking behavior then biting can persist And it can be much more of a problem in bigger stronger puppies than in little ones. Training Puppies Not To Bite The idea of this exercise is to teach a puppy to accept being stroked and handled in any way, without touching us with his teeth. The event marker is a distinctive sound. Even around his mouth, without him making any attempt to bite you. You can also make it easier for him by starting this training when he is calm and not distracted. But for now, keep things simple. It can be a good way of getting the training started so that you have chance to say YES and give the puppy the opportunity to learn what you want him to do. Over the next few sessions, you can work on getting your hand closer and closer to the puppy. Until you are brushing the sides of his face without him making any attempt to mouth or bite at you Progress to touching and holding his collar, stroking his ears, grooming him, examining his paws and so on, all the time rewarding him for the correct behavior. Anytime the mouthing returns, back up to a point where he can succeed and move forward more slowly again Bite Inhibition Training Some experts feel that puppies should be allowed to mouth and even bite gently for a week or two before being prevented from biting altogether. Simply follow the instructions for managing your puppy above when he bites hard. But allow him to mouth you when he bites gently without much pressure. This is a great way to teach a dog excellent control over his mouth. After a couple of weeks of this, you can progress to the training exercise I outlined in the previous section. Older puppies that bite in play have often learned that this gets them a lot of attention. They have discovered that people squeal and shout and get quite cross. Sometimes these people push and shove the dog around which young dogs quite enjoy when they are playing. For these dogs it is important that you stop all physical play, with all family members If a puppy is biting hard at your hands when you try to interrupt his game. Or an older puppy is getting out of hand biting at clothing, you need to put your puppy on a harness and house-line a short trailing leash. This will enable you to control your puppy, and take him to a calming place, without handling him. You can just pick up the end of the line and lead him away. Older biting puppies are often bright and bored. And the best approach to avoiding future episodes of bad behavior is a structured programme of training and interesting activities. A professional dog trainer using modern positive training methods will be able to help you with these. Summary So now you know some tips on how to stop your puppy from biting. The first few weeks can be tough with a determined biter in the house, but you will get through this and come out the other side. A few months from now, this difficult period will be a distant memory In the meantime, focus on keeping your biting puppy calm, avoiding too much rough play, and redirecting his biting onto appropriate toys and activities. Spend some time on the training exercise set out above. Read the full disclosure here. Tasty finger! Your golden retriever puppy is as friendly as can be — great with kids, respectful of other dogs, and not overly attentive to your cat. Yes, golden retrievers are known for their good-natured demeanor, but they are still dogs — not so very far removed from their wild cousins, and they can be unpredictable when faced with stressful, disturbing, or frightening situations. One of our jobs as responsible dog owners, of course, is to keep our dogs safe, but we may not always be able to protect them, and we may not always be able to prevent them from biting through fear or when in pain. What is Bite Inhibition? Puppies begin learning this from their mother and siblings as soon as they start to tumble around with each other in play. If they bite too hard, they are scolded by their mother or alerted with a yelp from their siblings. Eventually, they learn how hard is too hard, and they use their teeth more gently in play. Human Sensitive or Advanced Bite Inhibition By the time your puppy moves into your home, they will have been using their bite inhibition skills for weeks. Your puppy needs to learn that human beings are fragile and should be treated with care. There are many professional trainers who recommend that you simply train your puppy not to bite. This seems like a practical course of action, and it does work — in the short term. Teaching a puppy not to bite will give you quick results, but it may mean they never learn how much force is safe to use on people when they are forced to bite in an emergency. So if they do eventually bite, they will know to hold back the pressure safely and will not cause anywhere near as much pain or damage as they otherwise might. Why is Bite Inhibition Important? Believe it or not, even the most gentle dog that has been trained from a young age never to bite, can react to certain triggers. Those triggers are fear and pain. Consider these situations: Your dog has been suffering from chronic ear infections and hates to have his ears handled. The neighbor stops by with her toddler, who immediately runs to your dog and fondles his sensitive ears roughly. What will he do? You and your dog are walking down the road like you do every morning when out of nowhere comes a huge dog who attacks your dog without thinking twice. You manage to pull your dog away, but in the process, your frightened dog bites your arm. Your sweet golden retriever has gotten themself tangled in some barbed wire while hiking. As you loosen the wire from her skin and fur, she snaps at you, biting your hand. You may never experience any of these situations. By teaching bite inhibition while your puppy is young, you will be far safer and ready for any of these situations should they occur. Teaching Advanced Bite Inhibition Following is a general guide to the bite inhibition skills your puppy learns and when, as well as where you should aim for their skills to be at certain ages. She will start the puppies off by teaching them how rough is too rough during nursing and play. These lessons begin when the puppies start nursing day 1 and continue until the day you pick your puppy up from the breeder. This works for some puppies, but for others, it just seems to arouse the pup and make matters worse. You will have to experiment to find out what works for you and your pup. You should withdraw all of your attention from your puppy for very hard bites. Do not over-correct your puppy so they become afraid of biting. After your puppy has calmed down, use a chew toy as a reward and let them chew it in your lap or lying by your side. This teaches you puppy that there are other ways to keep their mouths and teeth busy. By four or five months, all force behind play bites should be eliminated. Kids tend to play rough with puppies, and puppies will get rough right back. Your puppy needs to know that every human being is sensitive to their bites, not just you. It is a process that sometimes lasts months, depending on your puppy. Be prepared for this, and remember that long-term results in your adult dog are more important than curtailing puppy bites as painful as they may be. Supervise your puppy around children — If you have young children at home, you will have to think carefully about how you will protect them and your puppy. Little puppy teeth can cause a lot of pain, especially when your pup is still learning to control those urges. Young children can also cause a lot of pain to small puppies. Always supervise very carefully when your pup and children are together. A tired puppy is a happy puppy — It will be much easier to teach bite inhibition if your puppy is not bouncing off the walls. Make sure they get enough exercise every day. Not only will this help with training, but it will also help prevent all kinds of other destructive behavior. Conclusion Teaching bite inhibition to your golden retriever puppy is a gift you give to your pup that will last forever.

Umbilical cord training Throughout the rest of this guide I will be referring to each of these 4 methods and when you should or could be using them. Once used to using the paper or the pads, you slowly cut the area covered until they reliably use just a couple of sheets and never miss. You then slowly move the paper toward the outside where another set is placed and you begin to encourage your puppy to go outside only, before completely removing the papers inside. At this point they will have made the transition. A top tip when paper training is when you clean away soiled paper, you should hold one piece back and place it as a middle layer of the new papers. Puppy pads have a scent that attracts a puppy, paper does not. Effectiveness: On a scale of 1 to 5, I give it a 3. This is confusing and will make the learning process take longer. Best suited to: Either people who are going to have an indoor bathroom spot long-term, or people who will not use a crate for training yet cannot commit to constantly supervising their puppy when inside the home. Ease of use: On a scale of 1 to 5, definitely a 5. But it does result in more mistakes from your puppy until later in life. Equipment needed: Nothing but stacks of old newspapers! A very cost-effective method. Description: The method takes advantage of the fact dogs have a natural instinct not to soil the area where they eat and sleep. Key to this is making the crate just large enough to stand in, turn around easily and lay down stretched out but no bigger. The rest of the time you watch them and regularly take them outside to potty to teach them good habits. Best suited to: Everybody! This is because you will have to crate train your puppy before you can use a crate for house training which does take time and effort. Click here for my free and detailed guide to crate training your puppy. Equipment needed: A suitable crate. I have a guide to help you select the right size and type that you can read by clicking here. Effectiveness: On a scale of 1 to 5, I tentatively give it a 3. It could actually score higher or lower depending on how committed you are and how successful at supervising your puppy you are. Best suited to: People who are against any kind of confinement and can stay at home to watch their puppy all day every day. Mostly people who work from home and the retired. But this method also forms a part of every house training plan, whether you use other methods alongside or not. This is because when a puppy is free inside a home, they MUST be closely supervised to prevent any mistakes. Ease of use: On a scale of 1 to 5, I give it a 2. It scores low as it requires a lot of input from you as the owner. It is quite draining never being able to take your eye of your puppy. Equipment needed: None. Not a crate, newspapers, puppy pads or anything. The cheapest of all the methods…unless you put a price on your time. But it is highly effective. Description: This technique calls for you to tether your puppy to you by leash and have them follow you wherever you go when inside your home. You will notice and be able to intervene and correct every possible mistake, taking them outside every time they need to relieve themselves. Used correctly, the opportunity for your puppy to make mistakes is completely removed so every single time they need to visit their bathroom spot is a training opportunity you will take advantage of and no mistake goes uncorrected. Best suited to: People who spend all their time at home with their puppy and would also enjoy literally being tied to their pup all day. Further Info: for a detailed discussion of this technique, the benefits, downside, and many more tips, please see my article: Umbilical Cord House Training: What is It? How Does It Work? A Mix Of 3 Methods I use and recommend a mixture of crate training, constant supervision and paper training. I use constant supervision extensively because when a puppy is outside of the crate you have to watch them diligently to avoid puppy mistakes. Admittedly this is somewhat going against my advice because I always recommend to avoid paper training if possible. It encourages or allows your puppy to toilet inside the home, before then training them not to do so. This is confusing to your puppy and harmful to our house training efforts. But even though I recommend against it, using paper training ever so occasionally as a fall back plan works well for me. Most dogs love being outside and will use any excuse to get out there and stay there. You do this by using a cue word and walking them on leash to their potty spot, not allowing them to do anything else and if they do not potty, taking them back inside and trying again in a few minutes. Because a full bladder or bowel is uncomfortable, dogs are happy to relieve themselves, but some may try to hold it if they think they can get to stay outside and sniff around a while. If people use different words, your dog will get confused. This will slowly teach them the command. And this is fine for the first couple of weeks while they have no bladder control and will perform their business very quickly. And some dogs even learn to actively hold their bladder just so they can stay outside to explore for longer. Before you can do this you need to first get your puppy used to wearing a collar and leash. Have You Got Everything Prepared? A Check-list Before You Start Like everything in life, house training runs smoother if you have everything ready before you start, hopefully before you even bring your puppy home. Have you: Decided on and marked out a suitable bathroom spot? Chosen and purchased a suitable high-quality nutritious food? Figured out the times of day you will feed your puppy? Got a collar and leash? Put in place a leash training plan? Bought a suitable crate and set it up in a suitable place? Bought bedding for the crate? Bought chew toys to occupy your puppy in the crate? Decided on the commands you will use if any? Purchased either baby gates, a pet barrier or an exercise pen for longer term confinement? Sourced stacks of newspapers or puppy pads to use in the long-term confinement area? Bought some small but highly tasty training treats to use as a reward? Bought specialized pet stain removing and odor neutralizing cleaning products? Bought a UV light to find hidden spots of urine that must be removed to prevent repeat accidents? Sat and discussed with every member of your household your finalized plans so everybody has the same info? Successful House Training Is All About Schedules And Routine Dogs thrive when living to schedules and routine, doing best when they have set times for eating, going to toilet, exercise, training and play. But because the passage of food through their digestive system stays roughly the same, if you feed your puppy at the same times every day they will need to defecate at roughly the same times every day. This results in fewer mistakes, more opportunities to praise your puppy for going in the right place and so speeds up their learning. Depending on their age a puppy will need to poop 3 to 6 times a day, and wee many more times than that. Can these times be predicted? Mostly they can. When a puppy needs to potty depends on when they last ate, drank and their recent activities. Mostly they need to go: First thing in the morning The instant they wake up from a nap at any time of the day Just before going to bed Within a few minutes of eating or drinking Immediately after a play session Immediately after any excitement But a puppy also needs to go many times per day regardless of recent activities, so you should also take your puppy to their bathroom spot on a consistent schedule such as the following: At 8 weeks old — every 30 mins. At 10 weeks old — every 45 mins. At 12 weeks old — every 1 to 1. At 16 weeks old — every 2 hours. At 20 weeks old — every 3 hours. Some will need to wee within 2 minutes of drinking, others after 20 minutes. Some will need a bathroom break within 2 minutes of waking, others 15 minutes later. You have to determine your puppies own natural tendencies and create a schedule to suit. To achieve this, you need to follow this 5 step process: Feed them to a strict schedule. Decide on exercise, play and training times. Develop a schedule including feeding, exercise, play, training and all scheduled potty times. Use the information gathered in your diary to learn from any mistakes and adjust your schedule for the following week. The more you can stick to schedules and routines, the smoother and faster the process will be. But you can stray from the path when necessary and still find success, it will just take a little longer. You should feed your puppy 3 times a day when 12 to 26 weeks old. From 26 weeks old and onwards, feed your puppy just two times a day For 2 meals a day you need to space them out 8 to 12 hours apart. What works for me is shortly after I get up at and when we have our evening meal between PM and PM. Availability Of Water: You should make sure fresh water is always available but because drinking too much or too little can be a sign of health problems, you do need to monitor their water intake. Physical activity often leads to a puppy needing to potty very soon after. So to encourage predictable potty times for your puppy, you want to schedule their exercise and play. Deciding when to exercise, train and play with your puppy is entirely up to you. You should fit it around your lifestyle and commitments, but try to make it the same times each day if you can. Enter all the following details into a single column in an excel spreadsheet, or write them down as a day schedule with a pen and paper: When you wake and add an instant bathroom break before you do ANYTHING for yourself! Enter the times you will play with, train and exercise your puppy. Enter a scheduled visit to the bathroom spot after each of the activities listed in points 1 to 3. Add scheduled bathroom visits after any length of time longer than your puppy should be expected to hold it according to their age. Write in scheduled sleeps for your puppy, place them in the crate or confinement area. After writing down this schedule, tick off each task as you go through the day with your puppy. This way you will always know what needs to be done and when, and there will be no confusion about whether someone else in the house fed, exercised or took the puppy to the loo. I discuss this further in step 5 below. You should be able to pick up on any patterns and adjust your own behavior to avoid mistakes in future. Was puppy left alone and peed in the living room while you made breakfast? Puppy should never be left alone unsupervised, learn from this mistake. Or maybe puppy peed in the crate after an hour? Learn from this mistake. Well done for watching them closely enough. So increase the frequency. Therefore you should stretch out the time between visits by 10 to 15 minutes for the following day. This is how you find out. And Now House Training is So Much Easier By writing out the schedule as in step 3, you should never forget to feed, train or take your puppy to potty. And by using the schedule as a diary as in step 5, you get feedback on how you and your puppy are performing, and are armed with the necessary info to make changes to your schedule over time. You, your puppy and their needs all stay in sync and house training becomes that much easier. Just make a spreadsheet in excel and print it out, or simply buy some lined paper. Keep it somewhere you can always see and know where it is, alongside a pen or pencil and write entries in it as you watch your puppy throughout the day. After this, continuing with a diary every day is the best advice, although keeping one for 3 consecutive days each week will be sufficient for you to pick up on any changes as they mature. Once your puppy is 5 to 6 months old, they will have sufficient bladder control and experience to make a schedule and diary unnecessary. Just make sure they get access to the outside at least once every 3 hours and all will be fine. Extending The Time Between Toilet Breaks I discussed earlier how a puppy will need regular visits to their bathroom spot, something like every 30 minutes at 8 weeks old, every 45 minutes at 10 weeks old and so on. But every puppy is different and their progress in having longer time between needed toilet breaks will vary too. You do this because as a puppy grows, the size of their bowel and bladder increases, so they will be able to hold more for longer and you want to take advantage of this. This is also teaching them necessary bladder and bowel control. Use your cue word before you take them: By using your chosen cue word every time before you take them to potty, your puppy will learn what the trip is about and what they must do. This eventually leads to faster results as they know what is expected of them. Lead your puppy to the bathroom spot on leash: This gives you the ability to keep your puppy at the bathroom spot and prevent them wandering off, getting distracted and forgetting what they are there for. Make sure you stay with them at their bathroom spot: If you have them on leash, then of course you will be. When they start to go, say your chosen cue word in a soft warm voice. Mix up the reward between play, time off leash and a food reward to keep them guessing, but keep the food rewards to a minimum as what goes in must come out and random feeding promotes random elimination times! Many people pop out, stand for 1 minute and then come back in. Some people recommend to stay out there for 10, 15, 20 minutes, whatever it takes until they go, then praise profusely when they do. I recommend you give them 3 to 5 minutes, saying your cue word every 30 seconds or so but otherwise standing silently still just holding their leash so they cannot wander off. Take them back to their bathroom spot in 10 minutes or so. If using a crate for house training: Pop them back in the crate and leave them for 10 minutes. Then take them back to their bathroom spot. Take them to their bathroom spot after 10 minutes. If not, take them away from their bathroom spot and watch them for 10 minutes before returning them to their bathroom spot. And if crate training, do not leave them in the crate too long else they may be forced to soil in there. Prevent this at all costs. Rinse and repeat the visits to and fro like this until they do potty, then follow the next sections advice. What You Should Do Between Scheduled Bathroom Breaks Between scheduled bathroom visits you should do two things: Allow some supervised free time in your home, and use your chosen house training method. By free time I mean time outside of their crate, or off leash, or out of their confinement area. Time free to roam, explore and live life. When 10 weeks old they may need to toilet every 30 minutes, so they only get 5 to 10 minutes free time. When 12 weeks old, they may need to toilet every hour so they can get 35 to 40 minutes free time. You allow this free time because you are of course working toward a time when they will always be free and trusted unsupervised. To get there they need the experience, to get used to being free in your home and begin seeing it as a place they need to keep clean. They also need social interaction and life experiences. But what are the signs a puppy is about to potty? Heading toward, barking at or scratching the door to the outside. The minute you see any of these signs you should take your puppy to their bathroom spot immediately. There may well be some false alarms, but better safe than sorry. Carefully watch them and you should soon notice what body language means a wee or a poop is imminent. There will be recognizable signs. We do this because the time is fast approaching when mistakes are most likely to be made. If using constant supervision: Carry on as you are. Then at their scheduled potty time, attach a leash and lead them to their bathroom spot. If using a crate for house training: Encourage your puppy into their crate and close the door, leaving them there until their scheduled potty time and then release them, instantly attaching a leash and leading them to their bathroom spot. If using umbilical cord training: Attach a leash and tether your puppy to you, ready to react if they make moves to eliminate. Take them to their bathroom spot at the scheduled time. If paper training: Take your puppy to their confinement area where their papered bathroom spot is and supervise them, ready to intervene if they make moves to potty away from the paper. Not good when you need to be there to encourage them for doing it in the right place. If they do, you can pick them up and carry them, or take them by the collar and gently lead them to their bathroom spot, then encourage them to finish where they should. But to me this seems foolish. Instead of a little pile or puddle, you then have a long line of wee or poop from where you caught them all the way to the bathroom spot that you then have to deep clean instead. Then think how they were able to make such a mistake and tweak your plans so it cannot happen again. But any corrections or punishment now will be futile. House Training For Full Time Workers This advice applies not just to full-time workers , but also if you must occasionally leave your puppy home alone for a few hours. Most importantly, follow all the advice in this guide so far for the times that you are home. Supervise them, correct any mistakes, set feeding and elimination schedules and everything else I have advised. First of all, if like me you use a crate, you simply cannot leave your puppy in the crate for many hours. This is very unfair on your puppy and it will destroy the crates power as a house training tool if they lose the instinct to keep it clean. Secondly, please do your best to enlist the help of a family member, friend, neighbor or hire a dog walker to periodically pop in to visit your puppy, take them to their bathroom spot, give them some social interaction and so on. But I also freely admit to using paper training myself occasionally, for the unavoidable times I have to leave my puppy home alone for a few hours. If you have to leave your puppy home alone for any reason, usually because you work, then paper training in your absence is the only thing you can do. You then have two options available to you: Buy and use an exercise pen, or confine your puppy to a single, puppy-proofed room. As they get used to pottying on paper, reduce the area covered one sheet at a time until just a small area remains covered. Once you know your puppy can hold their bladder for longer than they have to be left alone, remove the paper altogether. By 16 to 20 weeks, they should be able to last the 3 or 4 hours max they will be left alone and somebody comes to exercise them and allow a bathroom break. Between 8 and 12 weeks when weeing seems spontaneous , my puppy spends a fair bit of time in there and I paper train them to use puppy pads. Our kitchen and dining room was separated by an arch where a door used to be, with tiled flooring, making it ideal. I used a baby gate across the arch between the kitchen and dining room, and initially covered the dining area with paper, over time reducing it to just two sheets with the puppy pad holder on top. The dining area is completely empty, with no furniture, nothing in there. Skirting boards, the corners of furniture items, anything within reach is a potential target for teeth and claws. My girlfriend works from home, we crate trained and we had no problem finding house sitters in an evening if we needed one, so we all but had things covered. But this is something you need to be mindful of. Whatever the reason, there just WILL be times you cannot supervise your puppy. The essence of house training is to prevent mistakes and praise your puppy heavily when they potty in the right place. If you cannot watch your puppy, the chances of them making a mistake go through the roof. So even if you choose to use a constant supervision method exclusively, you will still need to confine your puppy sometimes to a paper covered area just in case. I mean literally none at all. One minute they are trotting along, the next they are leaking. No warning signs for you, not even any warning signs for them. I recommend setting up an exercise pen with the entire area papered, or do as I do and confine them to a room with the entire area papered. Use this time to paper train them, to get them used to weeing on paper and gradually reduce the area because you will use this method if you ever have to leave them home alone during the next 4 or 5 months. They will sniff, circle and so on as I mentioned before. At this point you can now move on to using your chosen house training method. Start encouraging them to potty in the right place from the minute you get them home. So the good news is, even at 8 weeks they will be able to last 4 or so hours and you will only need to wake once during the night. Also, make sure to take them to their bathroom spot right before you go to bed so they can empty themselves. Then set an alarm for 4 hours after their bed time when you must get up and take them to their bathroom spot. No excuses, you simply must do this. If you find your puppy has soiled in this time, you should set the alarm for half an hour earlier the next night 3. After a few days of not having a night-time accident, set your alarm for 15 minutes later and increase the time by 15 minutes for each successful night they do not have an accident. If you find they make a mistake one night before you wake, set the alarm back half an hour, make sure they stay dry a few days and then increase 15 minutes nightly again. And by using this schedule, you strike a good balance between a couple of inevitable accidents while stretching out the time at a good pace to lasting a full night. If they soil their crate more than once in any given week, you may have to progress slower add 15 minutes every 2 or 3 days , or perhaps sleep them in a papered exercise pen or their confinement room. Maintaining their instinct to keep the crate clean is of utmost importance. What To Do At The Bathroom Spot At Night When you take them out at night, say your chosen cue word, take them straight to their bathroom spot, praise them gently when they finish their business but do not reward them with anything else. The last thing you want is to teach your puppy that during the night is a time for play or food treats! This will come back to haunt you in a big way and result in noisy sleepless nights. You want your puppy to learn that night-time is for sleeping and for nothing else. Do nothing else. Some will be able to last the whole night without a potty break at 10 weeks rarely , and some may not be able to at 15 weeks also rarely. But certainly by 16 weeks old your puppy will be able to last a 7 hour night without needing to potty if you do not feed them for 3 hours or provide water for 2 hours before bed time and allow them to empty themselves right before you lay down for the night. No Progress? If you are feeding, exercising, training and playing with your puppy to a schedule, and when you look at your diary there seems to be no pattern to the times they need to potty, you should seek the advice of your vet. Common ailments such as gastroenteritis, urinary tract infection and health issues affecting internal organs and the genitalia can lead to a dog needing to potty much more frequently, often leading to eliminating in the house. Again, seek the advice of your family vet. You cannot successfully house train a puppy who is ill because their bodily functions will be too unpredictable. But 6 to 7 months is the ball park figure to aim for. A single mistake in the home can cause a major setback. A puppy may not make a mistake for 2 weeks, then you give them too much freedom, they make a mistake and all of a sudden they are regularly trying to potty in the home again. Also, some puppies just seem to forget everything for a few days now and then while growing up, even after being perfect for a couple of weeks. Just stick to your plan and they WILL eventually get it. Conclusion With house training, the fewer mistakes you allow your puppy to make and the more they are rewarded for doing the right thing, the quicker they will learn and the faster you will find success. Because of this, the more effort you put in and the more time you spend with your puppy at the beginning — supervising to correct mistakes and taking them to their bathroom spot many times each day — the better. But there are many other things you can do to help yourself and your puppy to find success. This guide has provided you with all the theory, strategies, tips and tricks you will ever need to successfully house train your puppy as quickly and efficiently as possible, with the fewest mistakes along the way. Please see the entire series linked to below:. Labrador house training routines. We want them to learn to wait until they are outdoors before emptying their bladder or bowels. It is about maturity too. We need to understand that tiny puppies have immature bodies and are not physically capable of waiting very long. On your side There are two factors on your side in the potty training process. When it comes to bladder control, fortunately your puppy improves with every day that passes, so this factor does not work against you forever. The same applies to the fact that the puppy has been removed from his nest, he will soon learn to accept his new nest. The principles of puppy potty training The puppy is learning the principle of extending the nest area, which he keeps clean instinctively, to include your entire home. Punishment is counter-productive in this process as it teaches the puppy to avoid emptying himself in your presence. Rewards are helpful, but given the right routine, a puppy will naturally learn to be clean without them. The secret to successful house training lies in selecting targets that the puppy can achieve. If your puppy sometimes needs to wee every 15 minutes whilst he is awake and active, you will have to take him outside every 15 minutes. Restricted access Start small applies here too. Allow your puppy access only to a small part of your home. Increase the area he has access to, only when he is capable of keeping the current area clean. Just because he can. And because the sensation of a filling bladder is a new one. Your job is to teach him to wait a little longer. You do this by confining him for a short time, every time his bladder fills. You can confine him in his nest within a crate , or in your arms. He will be reluctant to wee in either location. If he wets himself, you have waited too long! It takes two You need to go outside with your puppy, and stay out there with him, each time he needs to wee. A tiny puppy is unlikely to empty himself on his own. This especially applies in cold or wet weather. Routines Matter When House Training a Labrador Retriever Based around these practical requirements you can create your own house training routine. For a puppy that needs to wee every half an hour, it will go something like this Take puppy outside to the toilet area and wait with him until he empties himself Bring him indoors and allow him free access to your kitchen for fifteen to twenty minutes Crate or cuddle the puppy until it is thirty minute since his last wee Take the puppy back out to the toilet area If at any time the puppy does not empty himself then confine him for another ten minutes and try again. As soon as he is regularly not needing to wee after thirty minutes you can extend the duration of free access to your kitchen. Provided you stick to these principles and strategies, the house training process, though quite intense for a short while, will pass smoothly. Print Potty train your puppy quickly Housebreaking is one of the least desirable tasks when adding a new puppy to your family. It is never fun but consider it a necessary task. You will never regret having a dog that knows your home is not a bathroom. When to start housebreaking Housebreaking should begin the day you bring your puppy home from the breeder. It is important to establish quickly that there is a right and wrong place for your puppy to go potty. How long does it take to house train a lab puppy? I wish I could give a definitive answer for this, but the truth is that every puppy is different. Most puppies can be completely house broke by the time they are months. But assume there will be a lot of ups and downs through the process. Some puppies learn very quickly and rarely have an accident. Others take more time to make the connection. Here are some things you can do to help the process go smoothly. Have the right attitude! Keep your attitude in check to help this process go quickly and smoothly. Have patience! As already stated, potty training can take some time. It may happen, but it is unlikely. Instead, plan for a long haul and then you will be more patient and understanding when mishaps happen. The products I recommend I believe are a good value or good investment for anyone working to train or maintain training on their retriever. When possible, I include links to the product. Some of these links may be Amazon or other affiliate links in which I am paid a small commission at no cost to you. All opinions and recommendations are my own. Step 1: Establish a place for your puppy to go potty To get started housebreaking your puppy, you must first establish a place where it is okay for your puppy to do his business. Find a place outside that is not too far from your home, but an area where you are not worried about killing the grass or trampling plants that are important to you. Consider this carefully, because once your puppy starts going potty in this area it will be exceedingly difficult to move or change the area. Once the scent is there, it is natural for dogs to continue going potty in the same area over and over. Do I have to potty train outside? In some areas of the country, winters can be very cold. Some new puppy owners wonder if it is too cold for their Labrador puppy to go outside to potty train during these times. The answer is no. Most Labs can easily be outside for a few minutes even during the coldest nights to go potty. A pee pad is a disposable, leak proof pad that is scented to attract your dog and encourage going potty on them. We highly discourage using pee pads because in the long run it is confusing to your dog. If you spend time teaching your puppy to NOT go potty inside your home and then flip-flop and begin letting them go inside your home on a pee pad, your dog will be confused. Besides, eventually you must retrain them to going outside, so the best policy is to never start letting inside be an option. Step 2: Establish a routine and schedule for your puppy Establishing a routine is the single most important step for housebreaking. The more consistent you are, the faster your puppy will learn to go outside for potty. This time will increase rapidly over the next few weeks, but that first week is going to take a lot of time and energy on your part to consistently let your puppy out on a schedule. To make being consistent easier, consider this: Set a timer When housebreaking puppies, we find that setting a timer is helpful. An hour flies by and you hardly realize it. For the first few days at least, set a timer and let your puppy out hourly, especially if your puppy is not in a crate. We will discuss that more in a bit. Timing is everything There are other times when you need to let your puppy outside. Immediately after eating or drinking your puppy should go outside. Eating and drinking will trigger a need to go potty, so to avoid accidents, take your puppy out every time they eat or drink. And if they drink a lot of water, you may have to take them out several times before they are back on schedule. Anything you can do to make going potty a routine will help your dog learn and associate that going outside is where I need to go to go potty. Use a command I know this sounds crazy but using a command can help your dog form an association between the command and going potty. At first this is meaningless to the puppy. And you cannot discipline your puppy for a potty accident in the house that you never saw happen. The solution for this is never let your puppy go unsupervised. This can be exhausting, that is why we suggest using a crate to help. The stern words must be said during the accident or immediately after to have any effect. Using a crate to house train your puppy First, while your puppy may not love his crate right away, if properly introduced and used consistently, Labs usually come to love their crates. As den animals, dogs will view their crate as a den where they can go to sleep or get away from the business of the home. Learn more about crate training your Labrador puppy here. When using a crate to housetrain your puppy, you first want to make sure that you have a very small crate. One that is just a little bigger than your puppy. This is particularly important because you do not want your puppy to be able to move around much in the crate. If they can move around, they can and often will go potty in the crate. So, start with a very small crate and get bigger crates as the puppy grows. Whatever you choose to use to block off the larger area, make sure that it is not something your puppy can chew on or ingest. You will still need to find a way to gradually increase the area that the puppy has access to, so I just find the multiple crate solution easier. You should still set a timer and take your puppy out on a regular basis, and you will want to schedule some time each day for the puppy to run around the house and play while supervised. Step 4: Using praise to speed the house breaking process You can help your puppy more quickly understand that going potty outside is the right thing to do by giving your puppy well-timed praise. But the praise must be well-timed. You should give the praise while your puppy is going potty outside or immediately after. Timing is very important! Lots of people get upset when the dog goes inside but fail to praise when the dog does the right thing. Not all dogs are the same. Some puppies will whine just before they go potty in the house, or whine at the door when they need to go. Some will hide somewhere you cannot see them and do their business there. Still others may scratch at the door. How long can a puppy hold it overnight? With young puppies, weeks old, you will need to get up several times a night to let them out. It can be helpful to limit the amount of water your puppy has access to close to bedtime. We usually aim for every 3 hours and then steadily increase the time as they get older. But each puppy is different. Final thoughts on how to house train your Labrador puppy Remember that housebreaking is a process. It rarely follows a straight line and more often there will periods of success and occasional mishaps. Stick with it and before long your puppy will understand that going potty in the house is not okay. Until next time, happy retrieving. How to housebreak your Labrador puppy. Supervise Your Puppy Your second job is to supervise or contain your puppy when his bladder is filling up. You can do this by crating him for a few minutes, or by cuddling him in your arms. I recommend the cuddle option for the first few days, that way you can introduce the crate gradually once he has settled into his new home. Either spend your first day together in the yard getting a feel for how frequently they pee. As you can see, there is some guesswork involved in house training a puppy, but not too much. The secrets of successful outdoor toilet trips Not wanting to pee outside is a common toilet training puppy problem and one we look at in more detail in this article. Keeping your puppy company is the key. You need to go outside with your puppy and wait there with him until he has done a wee. This may take longer than you would like, and you probably have better things to do than stand in your yard while your puppy chases butterflies or plays with your shoe laces. But stay outside you must, until he has done that wee. Coming Indoors Early If you must come indoors before your puppy has relieved himself, you need to supervise him very closely. Hold him in your arms — or put him in a small crate for a few minutes — before going back out to try again. It is a new puppy problem, and it will pass. And if you teach your puppy to pee on command, it will pass even quicker! Rewarding success If you put plenty of effort in, and take your puppy out a great deal in those first few days, he will quickly learn that the place you have allocated to him for potty purposes is the place to pee. You can praise him and give him a little treat for doing so. Have your treat on hand keep them next to your poop bags so you remember to grab both on the way out , and deliver it right after your puppy has completed their business. Rewarding his successes and ignoring his accidents is the quickest way of successfully communicating what you want, and quickly potty training your puppy. Stage 2 — Learning self control During stage 2 your puppy begins to develop some self control. This means he can wait a few minutes before emptying himself when his bladder starts to feel full. Keep an eye on your puppy for the tell tale signs that he needs to use the toilet: whimpering, whining or barking sniffing about, especially sniffing in circles! Using Your Crate If your puppy is now used to his crate, you can start using it stretch out the gaps between toilet trips. Accidents during stage 2 At some point during stage 2, many puppies will be able to last an hour or so between wees. This is when puppy parents often relax their vigilance, and their puppies start having accidents in the house again. Simply go back to shorter gaps between trips to the yard for a few days. Then start to space out those trips again, but more gradually this time. Stage 3 — Extending the clean zone This is where all your hard work starts to really pay off. Once your puppy is confidently and consistently toileting outdoors, and you can further stretch out the gaps between toilet breaks, and start to introduce your puppy to the rest of your home. Take it slowly, and if accidents occur, to go back to shorter gaps between trips outdoors for a few days. Bear in mind that your puppy may be used to peeing in the yard and not in the kitchen by now, but they might not automatically understand which rule applies to the lounge. Method 2: How to potty train a puppy indoors This section has a lot in common with how to potty train a puppy when you work. So follow method 2 if you need to know how to potty train a puppy in an apartment as well. And that means using pads. How to potty train a puppy on pads The simplest way to do this is to restrict the puppy to a smallish room with washable floors. Cover the floor with puppy pads to begin with, with their bed in one corner. How do you train a puppy to pee on a pad? With this arrangement in place, as long as your puppy leaves his bed to pee which his mom will have encouraged him to do , he will pee onto the pads. So over the next few days, reduce the area of the floor that is covered with puppy pads by half. You should find he begins to make an effort to pee and poop on the part of the floor that is covered — but it needs to be a sizeable part to get this good habit established. How to potty train a puppy fast using pads — reducing the toilet area By the end of the first week, you can begin to reduce the part of the floor that is covered with puppy pads right down to a small area, preferably near the back door. It is usually best to do this when you have some time booked off work — or during a long weekend when the weather is fine. But if you choose to crate train your puppy LINK alongside potty training him, the crate can be a useful aid for potty training too. Once your puppy thinks of the crate as their bed, they will be reluctant to soil in it. You Still Need To Watch Your Puppy Always watch puppies closely in their crate during potty training, and whisk them out to the right spot at the first sign they might need to relieve themselves. You can find out a lot more about crate training and the role it plays in rapid house training on this page. As well opportunities to use the toilet, Labrador puppies need company and socialisation while they are small. So, if you are going to go back to work you need to arrange someone to look after him, or to come in at intervals throughout the day to play with him and take him out. Here are some articles which will be of interest if you are thinking of getting a puppy and work full time:.

Cats, Shih Tzus, and similar breeds Medium - Intended for dogs between 20 - 55lbs, capable of holding 1 - 2. French Bulldogs and similar breeds Large - Intended for dogs between 55 - lbs, capable of holding 3 - 5 cups of kibble. There are measures you must take as a responsible pet owner to keep your dog healthy. Veterinarians claim these diseases have been linked to the way your dog consumes food, leading dog owners to see their beloved family member suffer during and beyond mealtimes. Imagine a bowl designed for pets that cause less bloating, less mess and most importantly, a healthier lifestyle! Our bowl not only allows them to enjoy their meals; it extends their lifespan by reducing these health problems. Enhanced Pet Bowl The Enhanced Pet Bowl helps all breeds, whether it is your cat, dog or rabbit they will all benefit from this amazing bowl. It helps elevate the bowl to allow more comfort and ease for your dog. It allows him to keep his nose out of his food and breath while also allowing him to easily grab his kibbles. Christina S. English Bulldog I'll be the first to say I was skeptical. Every boxer I have had always takes a mouth full of kibble and drops all over the floor. The price and cost of shipping are a bit much but well worth it. My boxer no longer drops kibble everywhere and eats her food much slower than before and is clean. Torie L. Boxer I love this bowl and wish I had this years ago! My pug eats so much better now without choking on his food. I also highly recommend getting the stand with it, especially for older dogs. Rammy is 12 and has developed some arthritis in his spine. It makes my heart happy to see him eat without having to curve his spine to reach his food on the floor. Collin J. Outward Hound Super Design With our list complete, it was time to go shopping. Each flat-faced dog bowl featured in our review was purchased from Amazon. Yep, at DogLab, we buy every product at the same price you would pay. Once our flat-faced dog bowls were delivered, it was time to test them! How did we test the flat-faced dog bowls? At DogLab, we only recommend products that we would give to our own pups. To find the number one flat-faced dog bowl we tested for the following: Durability — How did the bowl hold up to rough dogs? Movability — How easy was it to flip the bowl or push it around during feeding? Suitability — Was the bowl easy-to-use for different breeds and sizes of dogs? Ease of cleaning — How easy was each bowl to clean? Improvement — Was their noticeable improvement in feeding when compared to a traditional dog bowl? Each of these factors contributed to which bowls we recommend. Our top picks excel in all of these areas. Our testing observations While testing the qualities listed above, we made some observations that are worth mentioning. But if you have one on hand, then you may decide to use it. Ordinarily, Harper is a delicate and refined eater. And not just a small mess. Her meal went everywhere. I was surprised at just how much of a mess was actually made! If you have a couple of dogs, and not all are flat-faced, buy each their own bowl. Flat-faced bowls are for kibble only Sorry wet and raw feeders. Flat-faced dog bowls are not going to help your pooch. Every single bowl we reviewed failed the wet food test. The biggest problem is that none of these bowls are weighted. Wet food transformed our pups from Bulldogs into bulldozers. They smooshed their faces against the bowl and pushed it all around the room. Placing the bowl against a wall cut down on the movement but not the mess. The reason? Flat-faced dog bowls rely on easy access as a way to stop both mess and movement. No flat-faced bowl was weighted. Even with a no-skid rubber base, our pups had little difficulty sliding the bowls around when they were in a head-butting contest with their meal. If you are looking for a weighted bowl, ceramic is really your only choice. Goofy dogs can outsmart flat-faced dog bowls This point is only really true of slanted dog bowls, those where the rear is higher than the front — like the picture above. Bowls with this design only work if your dog approaches it from the front. Most dogs do this instinctively. When this happened, our dogs figured out something was wrong and repositioned themselves to the front of the bowl. All except one. Whatever direction our Pug started eating from, she remained there until she finished her meal. When she ate from the back, she huffed and wheezed the entire way through her meal. Even worse, kibble flew all over the place as she pushed it over the low front lip of the bowl. If your pup is more excited about eating than comfort, then I have a solution for you. Press the back of the bowl hard against the wall. This way, our Pug could only approach from the front. Problem solved! Meet our team of flat-faced testers At DogLab, reviews are important. As a result, we put products to the test. We assembled a team of flat-faced testers to interact with, observe and rate how well each bowl performed. Where possible, we source testers from Fetch A Friend Rescue , a rescue organization that takes in dogs from local shelters that would otherwise be put down, giving them a second chance to find a forever home. If you live in Upstate New York and are looking for a four-legged family friend, check them out! Let me introduce the testers… 1. While you may not be able to tell, this is her happy face. While Olivia loves the outdoors, her enthusiasm only extends for half of a walk to the local dog park. Her aggressive eating style really put the flat-faced dog bowls to the test. Jasmine Breed: Pug Jasmine is an adorable, chubby Pug that has perfected the art of begging. She can hear a bag of Doritos opening from half a mile away. Before you have the first tortilla chip to your mouth, she magically appears at your feet, staring at you with her goofy grin. Jasmine is a messy eater and ordinarily uses a traditional dog bowl. She benchmarked whether or not using a flat-faced dog bowl improved feeding. Barney Breed: Shih Tzu Barney is currently the oldest of our flat-faced testers. At 10 years old, he considers himself a guard dog and refuses to wander more than 6 feet from his owner and growls intimidatingly at strangers. However, once introduced, he will happily accept all the belly rubs you can give. His cute underbite got quite a work out as he tested the various flat-faced dog bowls. Champ Breed: American Bulldog mix Due to the need for flat-faced testers, Champ is the only rescue dog featured in this guide. Champ had a sad start to his life. He spent his first two years chained up in a yard, exposed to harsh weather. He is a loveable ball of muscle that prefers to communicate through cute grunting noises rather than barks. Champ plays rough and was perfect for observing the durability of our flat-faced bowls — he managed to break one during our tests! Good news! Champ has been adopted. Other times, the majority of the products we review perform poorly. In the case of dog bowls for flat-faced dogs, it was both. With such slim pickings, we can only confidently recommend two flat-faced dog bowls. One is a clear winner for most dogs, and the other is a travel-friendly option. Best all-around flat-faced dog bowl Best All-Arounder!

Comfortable for dogs with sensitive skin Cons: Can be more expensive than other collar types Not the best option for puppies prone to chewing May require regular maintenance to keep the leather in good condition Martingale Collars: Secure and Adjustable Martingale collars , also known as limited-slip collars, are designed with a unique loop that tightens when the dog pulls on the leash. This feature provides more control for the owner and prevents the dog from slipping out of the collar. Martingale collars can be made from various materials, including nylon and leather, and are suitable for both adult and puppy golden retrievers. Pros: Provides more control and prevents dogs from slipping out of the collar Adjustable for a perfect fit Suitable for adult and puppy golden retrievers Available in different materials, such as nylon and leather Cons: May not be suitable for dogs with respiratory issues Not ideal for off-leash play or swimming, as the collar may tighten unintentionally Choosing the Right Accessories and Customizations for Your Dog When selecting accessories and customizations for your dog's collar, it's essential to keep their comfort and safety in mind. Avoid anything that may be too heavy or cumbersome, as this can cause discomfort or even injury to your dog. Additionally, ensure that any personalized information, such as ID tags or nameplates, is clear and easy to read. By exploring the various collar accessories and customization options available, you can create a collar that is not only functional and comfortable for your dog but also a true reflection of their personality. Take the time to consider which options would best suit your dog's needs and style, and enjoy the process of creating a unique collar that your furry friend will love. Maintaining and Caring for Your Dog's Collar Now that you have chosen the perfect collar with accessories and customization options for your dog, it's essential to maintain and care for it properly to ensure its longevity and effectiveness. Here are some tips on keeping your dog's collar in top shape: Regular Cleaning Depending on the material of your dog's collar, it may require periodic cleaning to keep it looking fresh and free of dirt and grime. For fabric or nylon collars, you can often hand-wash them with mild soap and water or even toss them in the washing machine on a gentle cycle. For leather collars, use a specialized leather cleaner and conditioner to maintain the material's suppleness and prevent cracking. Inspecting for Wear and Tear Regularly inspect your dog's collar for signs of wear and tear, such as fraying, broken stitching, or damaged hardware. If you notice any issues, it's important to address them promptly to ensure your dog's collar remains safe and secure. Replacing Collars as Needed Even with proper care and maintenance, dog collars will eventually need to be replaced. Keep an eye on the overall condition of your dog's collar, and be prepared to replace it when necessary. This is especially important for growing puppies or dogs that are particularly active or rough on their collars. Storing Collars Properly When not in use, store your dog's collar in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight or extreme temperatures. This will help preserve the material and prevent any damage that could occur due to exposure to harsh environmental conditions. The Importance of Collar Maintenance and Care Proper collar maintenance and care are essential to ensure your dog's safety and comfort. By regularly cleaning, inspecting, and replacing your dog's collar as needed, you can keep your furry friend secure and stylish while enjoying your walks and adventures together. Selecting the right collar for your dog, along with suitable accessories and customization options, is crucial for their comfort, safety, and overall well-being. By taking the time to measure your dog's neck size, explore various collar styles and features, and maintain the collar properly, you can provide your furry companion with the perfect accessory that meets their needs and showcases their unique personality. Teaching Your Dog to Wear a Collar and Leash Once you've chosen the perfect collar and accessories for your dog, it's important to teach them to wear the collar and leash comfortably. This will ensure a positive experience for both you and your dog during walks and other outdoor activities. Here are some tips to help your dog become accustomed to wearing a collar and leash: Start with the Collar Before introducing the leash, allow your dog to become comfortable wearing the collar. Put the collar on your dog for short periods, gradually increasing the duration as your dog becomes more accustomed to the sensation. Remember to use positive reinforcement by offering praise, treats, and affection when your dog is wearing the collar. Introduce the Leash Once your dog is comfortable wearing the collar, it's time to introduce the leash. Attach the leash to the collar and allow your dog to explore their environment while dragging the leash behind them. Supervise your dog closely during this process to ensure they don't become tangled or injured. Practice Walking Together As your dog becomes comfortable wearing the collar and dragging the leash, practice walking together. Start in a quiet, familiar environment, such as your backyard or a quiet park. Hold the leash and encourage your dog to walk by your side, using praise and treats as positive reinforcement. Gradually Increase the Challenge As your dog becomes more confident walking on the leash, gradually increase the challenge by introducing new environments, distractions, and longer walks. Remember to be patient and consistent, offering plenty of praise and rewards as your dog progresses. Address Leash Pulling If your dog tends to pull on the leash, consider using a no-pull harness or headcollar to help manage this behavior. Training techniques such as "red light, green light" or "turning in the opposite direction" can also be effective in teaching your dog not to pull on the leash. You can even start with teaching your dog to heel. Final Thoughts Understanding your golden retriever's neck size is crucial for ensuring their comfort and safety. By measuring your dog's neck and choosing the appropriate collar size, you can avoid discomfort, injury, or even choking hazards. Additionally, it's essential to monitor your dog's weight and adjust their collar size accordingly. As with any pet-related matter, consult with your veterinarian if you have any concerns or questions about your golden retriever's neck size. With proper care and attention, you can help your furry friend live a healthy, happy life. Get more expert advice on pet-parenting by visiting the Off Leash blog at TryFi. TryFi's The Fi Dog Collar is a must-have for any pet parent, it's a GPS tracking collar that helps you keep tabs on your dog's location, activity, and sleep patterns, and alerts you if they escape your backyard. Try the Fi Dog Collar today! The link has been copied! You might also like. Best Collars for Golden Retrievers and Labrador Retrievers 6 min read If you are considering a Labrador or a Golden Retriever pup, then the best collars for these breeds are flat leather collars that are .A 1 inch wide leather collar would suit a long haired golden retriever, while a 1. In comparison, they do seem to be very much alike. They grow to a similar weight and size, they both love water and strive to please their owners so grooming and bath time will be easy with either dog and they both shed year-round. Not only will the amount of hair on the Golden be a greater aggravation to sweep up, but the hair does also play a big part in picking a collar that will suit your dog's needs. However, the hair is only one difference to consider when determining the collar of choice for your best friend. The second thing to consider is the temperament of the dog. Both dogs are playful, but the Labrador seems to be more apt to play than the Golden, who has a medium playful attitude and needs longer rest periods. The material and how the collar is made will come into play when outdoors in the dog park. Labradors will need a wider and stronger leather collar than the Golden, who can get away with a narrower leather collar that won't matte their long hair. And as they grow in weight and height, you could determine how thick their neck would grow and the size of collar they would need. Since they both love water, our line of waterproof leather collars are the perfect compliment to your Goldie or Lab. When considering what size to get, we recommend a collar at 8 weeks in which the puppy would probably be able to wear with little to no adjustment until the 16th week. Then, going to the next collar up in size at roughly 32 weeks, which would become their full-grown collar, and should continue to fit them as they grow to be around 75 - lbs. Healthy Growth As much as we pet owners say we will not feed our dog's too many treats or table scraps and stick to a diet plan recommended by the Veterinarian, some of us will look into those sweet puppy dog eyes and give in to our temptation of just one cookie. This is where the danger of obesity also plays a part in keeping the right collar that will fit on our dog. When it comes to the fit of any collar, keep in mind that when you adjust your dog's collar, put one or two fingers in between your dog's neck and the collar. If your fingers have enough room, then your dog can breathe well, and the fit is perfect. You will need it for training and taking them for walks. A 1 Inch wide leather collar is the best choice for a Golden Retriever who has long hair, as the narrower collar will prevent matting. The added width will help disperse the pressure around their neck as they pull on the leash. In order to avoid confusion with the Newfoundland Dog, he used to be called the Small Water Dog, since the Lab was most commonly used to retrieve the cork floats of fishing nets and swimming them ashore so that fishermen can pull in the fish-filled nets. The Labrador Retriever was often used to retrieve game and fish, pull small fishing boats through icy water, and help fisherman in swimming tasks. As the years went by, the breed population decreased and died out in Newfoundland in large part because of a heavy dog tax. It was in England where the breed earned its reputation as an extraordinary retriever of upland game, and the breed continues to grow in population. The popularity of the Labrador Retriever has been growing steadily to become the most popular breed in America by , and remains so today. Although they where employed as retrieving dogs in the past, today, he is held in high regard as a guide dog, sniffer dog detecting drugs and explosives, and a popular companion. Appearance The Labrador Retriever is easily recognizable. He is a moderate dog, not extreme in any way, with a stocky build. He is square or slightly longer then tall, of fairly large bone and substance. He stands at 21 to .His coat is short and hard to the touch. It is drip-dry and is entirely weatherproof to protect him from icy waters. A black coat was the most popular known colour for the Labrador, but yellow became more widely seen as of 50 years ago. The yellow coat ranges from light cream to red fox. Today, there is quite a trend for chocolate, also known as liver. He has a broad head and strong medium-sized jaw, which allows him to carry the largest game birds, such as Canadian geese. His heavy set and strong legs enable him to swim and run powerfully. He has a relatively short, thick-coated tail, which is known as an otter-tail. He has kind and intelligent hazel-brown, medium-size eyes which express a gentle temperament. He has a broad backskull with a moderate stop. His forelegs are well-boned, and straight from shoulder down to the ground. His paws are round and rather compact. His chest has good depth and width with well-sprung ribs. The Golden Retriever and the Labrador Retriever are regularly cross-bred to utilize their combined skills. When the Labrador is well trained, he is obedient, amiable, and tolerates well with the acts of children, other dogs and others pets. He does not seem to take offence at any insult. He is good tempered and very agile. He is a calm house dog, playful yard dog, and intense field dog. He is eager to please, enjoys learning, and excels in obedience. Lab Upkeep If you are the type of person who enjoys activities and spends most of your days in the outdoors, then the Labrador is for you. This breed needs daily exercise, preferably in the form of retrieving and swimming. If you have a swimming pool, you should either fence your Lab out, or be prepared to share the pool with him. Although, he can live in town surroundings, he should not be deprived of regular, long walks. He can consume any quantity of food; however, sensible feeding is important to prevent this breed from carrying too much weight. Retriever Health Issues Unfortunately, many Labradors do not live up to the image they carry. Living up to 10 to 13 years old, some suffer from hereditary cataracts, hip and elbow arthritis and even wayward temperaments. Major health concerns for this breed include: Canine Hip Dysplasia CHD : An abnormal formation of the hip socket that, in its most severe form, can eventually cause crippling lameness and painful arthritis of the joints. Elbow Dysplasia: A condition involving multiple developmental abnormalities of the elbow joint, specifically the growth of cartilage or the structures surrounding it. Obesity: A medically relevant nutritional disease which is defined by an excess amount of body fat. Pattelar Luxation: Occurs when the dogs kneecap is dislocated from its normal position in the groove of the thigh bone. Before any of these major and common health issues develop, Lab owners should always get their dog tested to see if they have issues with their hips, elbows, eyes, and knees. We all know that the Labrador Retriever is one of the most reliable, smartest and friendliest dogs in the world. Despite all of these great qualities, there are still things about them that need to be taken care of. If you enjoy long walks, a long swim in the lake, a game of fetch or perhaps a day of hunting, the Lab is your perfect dog and will remain your loyal companion for years to come. Recent Articles. This is appropriate if you intend to replace a worn-out or damaged collar and are certain that the replacement will be the same size. Measure from the center of the buckle to the current sizing hole for the most accurate results. If your dog has had not any collars before, use measurement tape. If you lack a loose tape measure, you can use any available string, yarn, or ribbon. Now, let go and mark the location on the string where your finger met the end of the string. Then, use a tape measure to determine the length of your string measurement. Not only will a puppy require time to adjust to their new collar, but you will likely need to replace it multiple times to accommodate its growth. You want your dog to develop a bond with their collar and view it as a normal, comfortable part of their life, so take care to select the proper size to facilitate this. Choose The Right Materials Of The Collar Collars for dogs are constructed from a variety of materials that prioritize comfort, aesthetics, and longevity. Golden Retrievers are medium to large dogs who put their collars through the wringer, so durability should be a top priority. The widest variety of designs, colors, and widths can be found in nylon and polyester, the most popular materials. Polyester and nylon are highly flexible and relatively simple to clean fabrics. Cotton Fabric Cotton is highly durable, insulating, and capable of controlling moisture. In addition, they are simple to clean, cost-effective, and simple to maintain. Numerous collars are made of cotton in a variety of patterns and hues. Some collars have an inner fabric sleeve wrapped around a nylon band to increase their durability. Bio Thane Some dog collars are made of the waterproof material Bio thane. Bio thane is composed of polyester and polyurethane and polyvinyl layers. Its waterproof qualities make it ideal for Golden Retrievers, who are likely water-loving canines. Leather Leather is an organic material that is both durable and versatile. They are an excellent option for Golden Retrievers with allergies or sensitivities, despite being more expensive. In contrast to collars made of synthetic materials, it is easy to clean and can be used for years without fading. Neoprene Neoprene is a rubber-based material that has a wide range of applications. It has exceptional water resistance and does not retain moisture, which can lead to odors or mildew growth. Neoprene dog collars combined with nylon or polyester are extremely sturdy and long-lasting, able to last for years. Polyester Or Nylon Due to their popularity, nylon or polyester collars typically have the greatest variety of styles, colors, and sizes. Polyester and nylon are highly flexible synthetic fabrics that are also easy to clean. Different types of collars are necessary for thick and thin furs. The collar size and style are influenced by factors such as hairstyle. These are some tips for selecting the appropriate collar for your puppy. Little Fields Farm is the place to go if you want to find additional dog collar options. This list is not exhaustive, but it does contain some examples. Rope Collars: Rope collars are both comfortable and durable without irritating the skin. Flat-Front Dog Collars: These are the most common collars that are used daily. They consist of a flat, fabric-based collar with a plastic or metal buckle. Safety Considerations When it comes to choosing a collar for your pet, safety should be a top priority. Here are some safety considerations to keep in mind: Choose a secure buckle or clasp: The collar should have a buckle or clasp that is secure and will not come undone easily. This will help prevent your pet from escaping and getting lost or injured. Avoid choke chains and prong collars: These types of collars can cause pain and injury to your pet, especially if they are not used correctly. Check for proper fit: A collar that is too loose or too tight can be dangerous for your pet. Make sure the collar fits snugly but not too tightly, and can be adjusted if needed. Consider breakaway collars: If your pet spends time outdoors or unsupervised, a breakaway collar can be a good option. These collars are designed to come apart if they get caught on something, reducing the risk of injury or strangulation. Choose a collar made of safe materials: Some materials can be harmful to pets, such as those that contain toxic chemicals or are easily chewed or swallowed. Choose a collar made of safe materials, such as nylon or leather, and avoid those made of cheap or unsafe materials. Your dog should wear a flat collar at the base of its neck. Golden Retriever puppies will grow quickly, so get a collar that can be adjusted, is easy to put on and take off, and, ideally, has a place for a nametag. It would be enough to have a flat collar with a buckle made of soft, long-lasting materials. No matter whatever option you go with, your four-legged companion needs plenty of exercise and opportunities to run around and play in order to remain healthy and content. The idea of a lost puppy is terrifying, but an ID tag will help them return home. Although this silicone ID tag is more expensive than standard tags, I love that it is silent and attaches right to the collar. Crate and or containment gate Puppies are curious creatures that often need boundaries. You can accomplish this with a crate and containment gates. Crate training can be a lifesaver, and most dogs fall in love with having their own space. I recommend a crate with an adjustable divider so you can give your puppy more room as they grow. Another option is to use a Cumbor containment gate to limit access to certain areas of your home. Food and water bowls There are endless options of food and water bowls. If your dog eats fast, I recommend adding slow feeder attachment. These aids in proper digestion and reduce overeating behaviors. Food and treats Your vet is probably your best source of information for selecting the right food. They create personalized plans for your dog and deliver the food right to your door. I shared my journey of picking the right food in this blog and video. Toys and chews All dogs have slightly different preferences in toys, so I would start with a variety of items to see what interests your puppy most. Ellie still has her first toy, Dino, from 5 years ago! The safest way to deliver bully sticks is to use a Bow Wow Buddy safety device so they cannot swallow or choke on the last end. Check out this blog for all things grooming. Bonus Recommendation! Online Access to Dog Training We recognized the need for convenient and effective dog training solutions, which is why we created The Hapco. Within our app, you'll discover a wealth of resources, including: video tutorials. So, here are some essential factors you should consider while shopping around. First of all, you should get a comfortable fit collar. However, since goldens can grow massively in size, from a pup to a full-size adult, just in a few weeks, start with an adjustable collar. Usually, a collar size of around inches is sufficient for an adult golden retriever lbs. Speaking of width, .Lastly, the weight of a collar depends upon the padding it encloses. Generally, lightweight and thinner collars are considered good for puppies and vice versa. Buckle Two types of fastening options are offered in retriever collars; belt buckle and snap or quick release buckle. Belt buckles are more secure and of metal which makes them sturdier than snap buckles. So, if you have a huge golden with a high leash intolerance, belt buckles are better for you. On the other hand, the quick release option is mostly offered in plastic build but easy to unfasten and fasten than belt buckles. They really prove life savior in emergencies. Besides, plastic quick-release buckles are also good for puppies who fiercely resist wearing a collar. On the other hand, flat collars are great for goldens with thin and small hair that is not prone to matting. During winter, these collars also keep your dog cozy. Besides harsh correction collars like prong, shock, and choke collars, all the other types of collars are suitable for goldens. Besides, if your golden is an escape enthusiast, look for a collar with a microchip read, to track his location on GPS. As mentioned in the buying guide, a .Not for puppies, though, but martingale collars are actually good for adult golden dogs. However, keep in mind that these collars should only be used for leash training rather than as regular collars or correction collars. Conclusion Think how difficult it is to win the hearts of humans around you. Whereas a golden retriever puppy serves you his heart on a plate just for being a bit gentle with him. Remember that you are the best human near him, so you need to try at least to prove it by thinking about his life-improving gadgets more seriously. Similarly, avoid using shock collars and prong collars on your golden dog since it can make them scared. For leash training, you can use no pull collars or citronella collars but only after consulting a qualified vet. Cody Mitchell Cody Mitchell is a pet lover and a passionate pet writer. He has worked as a professional writer for over 6 years, with a focus on creating compelling content for pet-related brands. His work has been featured in major publications. When he's not writing, Cody can be found playing with his two dogs a labradoodle and a cocker spaniel or cuddling his cat. Leave a comment Your email address will not be published. Post Comment. When it comes to puppies, particularly short-haired breeds, you should look for a soft collar made of a non-abrasive material. Fabric collars are a good option, and collars made from a breathable fabric that is also machine washable are even better. When should a puppy wear a collar? Even if your puppy is still too young to go outside for walks, getting them used to wearing a collar is a good idea and will prevent any tiny tantrums further down the road! Collars should be worn most of the time, even around the house, but taking it off every so often to let the skin breathe is recommended. Try leaving the collar off for a couple of hours every time you brush or bathe them. Can an 8-week-old puppy wear a collar? Responsible breeders recommend puppies should not be brought home until 8 weeks old, and you can start getting them used to their collar shortly after this. It may be a good idea to let them settle into their new environment before introducing something new, but getting them used to their collar in their second week at home is a good idea. Should puppies wear collars at night? Most dog collars are designed to be non-abrasive, and perfectly safe for pups and older dogs to sleep in. This can also help puppies get adjusted to wearing a collar for the majority of the time. However, many vets also recommend including a contact telephone number, in the event your dog goes missing. Although microchipping has been mandatory for pet dogs since , tags are still a legal requirement and provide a quicker way to get in contact with you if your dog is found, without their microchip needing to be scanned first. We hope our puppy collar size guide has been helpful, as well as our dog collar FAQs! If you enjoyed our puppy collar size guide, you might like our other article, What do I need for a New Puppy? Small to Medium 1. Dog collars are made from a variety of materials that are built for comfort, aesthetics, and durability. Golden Retrievers are medium to large dogs that can put their collar through the wringer, so durability should be one of the top things on your list! Nylon or polyester are the most popular materials and offer the greatest range of designs, colors, and widths. Nylon and polyester are highly flexible fabrics that are also relatively easy to clean. Cotton Fabric Cotton offers great durability, insulation, and the ability to control moisture. Many collars are made of cotton in a number of different designs and colors. Some contain a cloth sleeve on the inside around a nylon band to increase the longevity of the collar. Biothane Some dog collars are made of Biothane , which is a waterproof substance. Biothane is made of polyester and layered with polyurethane and polyvinyl. Its waterproof properties make them ideal for Golden Retrievers that are more than likely, water-loving dogs. Leather Leather is a durable, organic material with plenty of styles. Although they are more costly, they are an excellent choice for Golden Retrievers with allergies or sensitivities. Unlike collars made of synthetic materials, it is simple to clean and may be used for several years without fading. Neoprene Neoprene is a rubber-based substance that is used for a variety of applications. It has exceptional water resistance and does not retain moisture, which can lead to the development of odors or mildew. Neoprene dog collars combined with nylon or polyester are incredibly strong and durable and able to last several years. Polyester or Nylon Nylon or polyester collars often have the greatest range of designs, colors, and sizes due to their popularity. Nylon and polyester are highly flexible, synthetic fabrics that are also relatively easy to clean. However, unlike slip or choke collars, you can set the limit to which the collar can close. Rope Collars: Rope collars are both comfortable and long-lasting, without being abrasive on the skin. Flat Front Dog Collars: These are your everyday collars that are the most commonly found. They are a flat, fabric-type collar that fastens with a plastic or metal buckle. Training or Aversive Collars This group of collars includes: Shock collars Prong collars Slip collars or choke chains They are designed to give a firm correction in the form of discomfort or pain when an undesirable behavior is displayed. A shock collar delivers an electric shock, or vibration which is controlled remotely. This is a form of correction to a specific behavior, and while their use is justified in some adult dogs that have aggression, they are not suitable for use on puppies that need positive reinforcement. And the most common training collar is the slip collar or choke chain. It does exactly that if used incorrectly, choke the dog. When it comes to puppies, there are a lot of things that people get wrong. These collars are not meant for beginners and should be used with care by experienced trainers only. You should avoid using them on young pups and only use this as a last resort when all other training methods have failed. If your pup is exhibiting behavior severe enough to warrant a stern correction, it might be better for you to seek help from a professional. We use the 8mm size for our dogs. Alvalley is a high quality brand for all lengths. For an adult dog, use an 8 mm or larger. For a young puppy, an 8 mm leash works fine, but I prefer the smaller 6 mm Alvalley Snap Lead one for ease of use when working at home. This size fits easily into the outside pocket of a treat bag. If going for a walk, use a more substantial leash such as the 8 mm Alvalley leash. For at-home use, a 6 mm collar is fine. I like to attach a snap lead permanently to a martingale collar for ease of use. The collar and leash can easily be slipped off and on as needed. Puppies and even some dogs like to chew the plastic ones. At 10 weeks of age, we are using very small bowls for ease of use during training. Golden Retrievers tend to act like they are starving and eat too fast, even at their correct weight. These bowls slow them down so that they will come closer to chewing their food than inhaling it. I like to use buckets instead of bowls for water. Puppies love to dig in their water which makes a mess out of it. Hang the bucket on the outside of the crate by the handle that is on the bucket. Then attach the clip for security by using only one side of the clip to attach the handle to the crate. Leave the other end of the clip just hanging. Never put water inside a crate with a dog. I recommend the 2-quart size for one or two big dogs. This size is also a good size for a puppy. I use two snaps to stabilize the bucket. Though wire crates usually have a divider so that you can size the crate down, we recommend that you go ahead and purchase a 24 inch wire crate along with the correct size for your dog when he is grown. Most puppies can use the 24 inch crates for about 2 months after they are weeks of age. It is also helpful to have a smaller crate when traveling. If you want this option with a Summer Brook puppy, you can have a small icrate shipped to our home address for you to pick up when you get here. The best size crate for adult girls is a 36X24X27 inch wire crate. For an adult boy, use either a 42X28X30 or 36X24X27 inch wire crate. We prefer wire crates in most cases because they give more ventilation and Golden Retrievers like it to be cool. Midwest Life Stages : These are heavy duty and come in both double or single door options. I prefer the crate with the double door because you will have the opportunity to use it turned sideways with the entrance on the side as well as the end. The Icrates are also two inches shorter and two inches narrower than the Life Stages crate. They are larger at the bottom than the top so they fit better in the back of an SUV or van. They are crash tested and have excellent safety records. These crates are a bit difficult to set up and take down so we only recommend them for those that want a crate that stays in a vehicle most of the time. They are perfect for families that take their dogs with them a lot and want a somewhat permanent fixture in their vehicle. This crate is very lightweight and sets up and folds down quickly and easily. We love these crates for motels and dog shows. Wood Crate Denhaus Townhaus : I recommend this crate if looks are important to you. This crate looks just like a nice end table. Though it was expensive, mine has held up well for several years. Crate Pad Primo Pads: These are my favorite crate pads. They are made of a heavy-duty vinyl and I have yet to have a dog chew one up. The vinyl is cool so that my dogs like them even in the summer. They come in a big variety of sizes so that they will fit your crate like a glove. These pads are not sold anywhere except from the manufacturer. Order your Primo Pads here. This is a raised cot-like bed that is cool and comfortable. There is a new Kuranda Bed that we have not tried ourselves but it looks amazing. It is a raised cot like the aluminum bed that we have loved for years but it is sized to fit perfectly into a crate! We have purchased both the aluminum as well as the less-expensive PVC Kuranda beds. Our aluminum beds still look brand new but our PVC beds are starting to warp a little after a few years. We like the Ballistic Nylon fabric which has held up for us for several years. The large is the correct size for both boy and girl Goldens. We have two of them and they are as comfortable as many human beds. We have the extra-large size but a large would be plenty big enough for a girl. At first, your puppy will have to be watched almost every minute when they are out of the crate or pen in order to establish good potty habits and also to teach them not to chew. Until you teach them otherwise, some puppies will try to chew everything, including the furniture and even the woodwork on the walls so I have found the pen to be a huge help. If you get a pen, you need to begin training your puppy not to jump on the sides right away. Never pet your puppy or let him out while he is jumping. Reward him for sitting. They open and close easily and in both directions. The Richell Pens look really super nice. They also can be set up as room dividers. We own at least a dozen sets of these pens and have used them in a large number of configurations. However, like most exercise pens, many puppies will eventually learn to climb or jump out of them. Families must be on top of training their puppy not to jump on the sides. Unlike the Richell pen, most, if not all pens have doors that open in only one direction. If you get one of these pens, set your pen up so that the door opens to the outside. If you are getting your puppy from a breeder other than Summer Brook, plastic pens are a good option for a 7 to 10 week old puppy. It is easier to house train if you start off not allowing your puppy in too large of an area. It also has the added convenience of being able to be easily removed by simply pushing a button that locks it in place. However, this gate must be mounted to the wall. Baby Gates that are Mobile Regalo Extra WideSpan Walkthrough Safety Gate : This gate can span a space inches For a pressure-mounted gate, the Regalo gates do very well and are a good simple solution if you only want a gate for a few months until your puppy is house-trained and can be given the full run of the house. However, understand that many puppies cannot be totally trusted in large areas until they are over 6 months of age. It takes some until they are close to a year. Doggy Door Why to Use a Doggy Door If you are able to put a doggy door in, this is by far the easiest way to house-train a puppy. Also, it provides an ideal way to leave a dog when they have to be alone. I teach our puppies to use a doggy door before they go home. In the last days before they go home, I section off a small area inside next to our kitchen with free access to a doggy door that leads to our side yard. When I keep a puppy past 8 weeks, I gradually increase the size area of the indoor area as they show dependability. I reserve the times when they are free in the house to the 30 minutes right after they have pottied. We highly recommend it. If you have a particularly aggressive chewer then I would buy the Extreme Kong but if your dog is average then I would use a Classic Kong. Bob-a-lot : You can fill this toy with a lot of food; the dog has to work at getting the food out by pushing it around. JW Pet has other great toys too. If you have a particularly aggressive chewer then I would buy the Extreme Kong but if your dog is an average chewer then I would use a Classic Kong. Puppies love them and they keep our puppies happy in their crates. Toys for Month Old Puppies.