english bulldog puppies kansas

Sometimes called a Bull-Pug, the Miniature Bulldog is a cross between an English Bulldog and a Pug, Puggle, or French Bulldog to create a smaller size bulldog that will be perfect for your family. English Bulldogs were bred to bait, guard, and control bulls while Pugs have been companions to royals since about BC. They are peaceful and get along well with animals and people. You may find that some males are territorial or try to display dominance or aggression toward other male dogs. By nature, Bulldogs may occasionally display overprotective behaviors, but early training and socialization can help you manage it. They can be stubborn and slow during training, but they retain what they learn well. It frequently has a shortened muzzle like both parent breeds, which can sometimes lead to difficulty breathing especially in extreme temperatures. Eyes are dark, large, and round, and ears are thin and small and hang in a rose or button configuration. Mini Bulldogs have sleek and short, smooth and glossy coats that shed moderately but almost never tangle or mat. Black and fawn is the most common coloration, but you can also see brindle, red, and white. Typically this breed will be about 15 inches tall and weigh 15 to 45 pounds. They are not likely to ask for walks, and you may even find your pup to be lazy! But some daily exercise is crucial to keep these naturally thick-set dogs from becoming obese. Obesity runs in both parent breeds, so Mini Bulldogs are especially prone to putting on unhealthy weight. We recommend 30 minutes of activity per day and about 2 miles walking per week. Take care when exercising because their shortened muzzle makes them particularly sensitive to extreme temperatures. Call Morgan at for specific pup identification if you are leaning towards placing an early deposit. Please check back, we update our website daily! Please see our Deposit Page and our Transportation Page for information on getting your puppy. We love the English bulldog temperament, physique and expression, I just personally like it to be about lbs. We find the smaller sizes are more buoyant and playful and, though still very heat sensitive, are better able to cope with life in general. Downsizing an AKC breed takes time. Our girls all come from long lines of lb. We not trying for 20 pounders…our goal is to have healthy, beautiful babies that consistently mature at lbs. If you see a puppy that tugs on your heartstrings please call, or go to our deposit page for more information. In the last few years it has become clear that most people would prefer their puppy to be transported using our White Glove transport or Nanny Flight transport. Today, we have requests for our Puppies from all over the country. Because of this, the majority those requesting a Sugarplum Bulldog Puppy have also requested transport to their area of the country; those in Florida, for example, cannot easily make the drive to RI. As such, the majority of our Puppies have shifted to a transport model; this gets them closer to their new forever home. Because of this, we have come to the decision, that for the well being of our Puppies and for the benefit of our new Sugarplum Bulldog owners, we have developed a transport model for our pups using our Puppy-Mobile with direct transport to the pups new Forever Home! Our Mid-Western breeding home is co-owned by Sugarplum Bulldogs, and our partner. I realize that not having a chance to play with the Pups is disappointing to some, but please understand that our team are dedicated to the highest level of care for our little Pups. We truly feel that this new model is in the best interested of our Puppies and their new homes. Please feel free to ask me any questions…. When you pick up a Mini Bulldog puppy make sure you always put one hand on your Mini Bulldog puppies bottom between the back legs and one hand on the his or her chest between the front. This allows you to support the Mini Bulldog puppy from both sides. This can cause a dislocating effect in the shoulder area, puts extra stress on the airways and is not good for the spine. Like all babies, he needs lots and lots of love and cuddling, lots of sleep, lots of good, quality nourishing food and still more love and cuddling. Moving to a new home, leaving his family and the only humans he has ever really known can be a little scary for the Mini English Bulldog puppy, so try to make the move as easy as possible for your Mini English Bulldog. For the first couple weeks, try to establish a good routine for him. Make it simple and relaxed at first so that your baby Mini Bulldog feels secure in the new environment. Your Mini English Bulldog Puppy will need a lot of guidance and direction from you during this transition so take advantage of this experience to bond with him. This will allow your Mini Bulldog to feel comfortable with you and develop his trust for you. Follow the breeders routine for feeding your Mini Bulldog puppy. The same times, same amount, same brand of food, same supplements. Feed your new Mini Bulldog child in the same place for each meal. Be sure your Mini Bulldog puppy has his own special area for his bed. Give your new Mini Bulldog lots and lots of cuddling, petting and attention. Be careful not to let your Mini English Bulldog puppy play so long and hard that he becomes exhausted. Click here for more information on Naming your English Bulldog. Substitute a small amount of the old food with the new and slowly increase the ratio of new to old until the old food is completely replaced with the new. And be careful with slippery surfaces such as hard wood floors, tile or linoleum. Mini Bulldogs are born with joints that are naturally looser than, say, a German Shepherd, and slipping on the floor or in the bath tub can be hard on the joints. If you have these kinds of floors you might consider area rugs to provide traction and a bath mat when bathing. Mini Bulldog bedding does not need to be as elaborate and expensive as it can be. Usually a common cotton rug or blanket in his crate will due nicely. They are fairly cheap and easy to wash and dry. Artificial sheepskin rugs are available at most pet stores and also wash and dry easily. The main thing is that your Mini English Bulldog likes it and you like it. Avoid wicker dog beds because most Mini Bulldogs love to tear these to pieces and could choke on or swallow the pieces. We recommend using a wire crate for your Mini Bulldog puppy. Mini English Bulldogs actually love having their own private retreat to go to when they want to be left alone. The ventilation in wire crates is much better than most plastic ones. A harness can be confusing for an Mini Bulldog puppy when they are just learning to follow your tugs. A collar tugs on one area in one direction whereas a harness tugs their entire chest and shoulder area making it hard for your Mini Bulldog pup to tell what you want him to do. We recommend using a collar while training your puppy but after he is well trained a harness is fine. Find one that fits comfortably in your hand. A must for long walks and road trips. Mini Bulldogs can tear the rawhide off and choke on it. Most Mini Bulldog puppies will love a simple knotted sock to shake and play tug-of-war with you. Many Mini English Bulldog puppies love chasing a ball. And if you get toys with eyes or buttons on them be sure to tear them of as your Mini Bulldog puppy can choke on these. It is best to feed a month old puppy 2 or 3 times a day. Be careful not to overfeed. Obesity can be a serious health threat to your bully. But we stress that any of these dog food brands can change their ingredients and ways of processing for the better or worse at any time. So educate yourself on the different brands and check the labels periodically for any changes. Avoid food with lots of preservatives and fillers. And never feed an Mini English Bulldog anything with soybeans or soybean oils as these are very difficult for Mini English Bulldogs to digest. Maybe 2 when your Mini Bulldog is an adult. Corn oil or canola oil teaspoons a day are great for the coat and skin. No soybean oil! Or Ester C Vit C tablets. Vit C in this natural form is more readily absorbed by the body. So as with any dog, training your Miniature Bulldog will require time, patience and consistency. The key to good training is an understanding of how a dog thinks. All dogs, including Mini bulldogs, are thought to be descendants of the wolf. Yes, the resemblance to your Mini English Bulldog is nil. But remember this important fact: like all dogs, your Mini Bulldog is a pack animal. At first this description may sound a little savage and unpalatable. But this pack instinct is precisely why dogs wedge themselves so perfectly into our families. They want to belong — to please. When a dog joins a family, even a family of one, a pack is formed. Does he steal food or run away from his owner? Does he bark uncontrollably at guests? These behaviors may indicate that the dog is confused as to his position in the pack. He may have difficulty recognizing his owner as the leader of the pack therefore the dog could attempt to assume the role himself. It is very important to training that you assert yourself as the leader early on. Of course, Mini English Bulldogs, just like people, have their own individual personalities. One may just be more willing to accept your correction than another. I know, I know. So with that in mind… Potty Training your Mini Bulldog: When potty training your Mini English Bulldog puppy, you must first learn to watch for the signs sniffing, circling etc. Watch your Miniature English Bulldog puppy until he goes, then remove him from the area as soon as it is finished; that way your Mini Bulldog learns quickly the reason for these trips. Praise for correct action works much better than punishment for mistakes. Click here for more information on House Training your English Bulldog. Start with a lightweight nylon or leather collar and lead. Begin by just holding the collar and letting your Mini Bulldog puppy lead you. Never drag or pull your Mini English Bulldog puppy around. You want this to be an enjoyable experience for your new Mini Bulldog puppy. You can do a much better job grooming your Mini Bulldog at home and it will be safer for your Mini Bulldog. The main areas of concern are the coat, the nails, the ears and of course those cute, trademark wrinkles. We will start with brushing. Brushing: Brushing is key to a healthy, shiny coat. Brush at least 3 times a week with any good dog brush that fits your hand comfortably. Start at the back and move forward. Then brush from front to back. Your aim in brushing is to remove dead hair and to evenly distribute natural body oils. Most Miniature Bulldog owners only bathe their bullies when they obviously need it. But when it is time for a bath you will need to gather up everything you will need including: shampoo, Q tips, cotton balls, wash cloth and towel. Choosing a shampoo for your Miniature English Bulldog is much like choosing one for yourself. Then thoroughly wet your Mini Bulldog from just behind the ears to his tail being sure to get the underside also. Apply the shampoo and work it in thoroughly everywhere including between the toes, under the tail and the genital area. Use a washcloth with shampoo to clean his face and wrinkles. Now rinse thoroughly so that every bit of shampoo is off your Mini Bulldog. Once a week for adult Mini English Bulldogs. If the nails get too long it can cause his toes to spread out unnaturally and make the foot deformed. Use a dremmel tool or dog nail clippers. Cut or grind just to the curve of the nail. Wrinkles: Wrinkle care is very important for an Mini English Bulldog. Mini Bulldogs vary in how often they need wrinkle cleaning but a good rule is at least twice a week. Use a wet cloth with shampoo to clean them then dry thoroughly. Baby wipes with aloe and lanolin are great for on-the-go wrinkle cleaning. Upload Image.They were created during the s by reproducers who were hoping to make a canine like the English Bulldog, however in a more modest , better bundle. A scaled down Bulldog and a toy bulldog are frequently mistaken for the smaller than normal English Bulldog. For the wellbeing of correlation: Miniature English Bulldog Physical Characteristics The small scale English Bulldog has a typical load of 15 to 30 pounds and can contain some Pug or Boston Terrier in its genealogy, contingent upon the raiser. The English Bulldog can arrive at up to 16 inches tall at the shoulder. The smaller than expected Bulldog is a crossbreed of an English Bulldog blended in with a Pug, and they burden normal 30 to 40 pounds. Toy Bulldog The toy bulldog was reared in Britain and does not exist anymore. These canines were blends of French and English Bulldogs and weighed around 20 pounds. They are between 13 to 14 inches tall at the shoulder, with guys being bigger than females. They have a brachycephalic face- meaning they have a wide, short skull — and a low-thrown, solid body. It comes in mottle, brown, grovel, red, white, or fixed. They require week after week brushing to keep their skin solid and to eliminate hair from shedding. They additionally need the folds of their skin cleaned consistently to hold skin conditions back from creating. Alongside their jacket and skin needs, be ready to manage a great deal of slobber. They are friendly canines who really do well with kids and love to nestle. They can likewise show a few defensive propensities around their home and family, and are faithful to their families. They can likewise be troublesome for certain different canines because of their bulldog legacy. Because of the medical conditions and unscrupulous rearing practices that flourish with this variety, research your reproducer cautiously prior to getting one of their canines. On the off chance that you choose to safeguard a canine, you can attempt the Bulldog Club of America, which might have postings of these more modest renditions of their variety, as well as the Petfinder and Embrace a-Pet sites. Smaller than expected miniature english bulldogs are most certainly charming and well disposed, however they accompany a great deal of medical conditions. It might likewise be more enthusiastically to track down a very much reproduced canine. Know there are many worries in the canine extravagant about reproducing these canines with such poor actual wellbeing possibilities.

But before you make that life-changing decision, it makes sense to do your research. Bassetoodles can be stubborn, which means that first-time dog owners can find them a bit of a challenge in terms of training. Choosing to work with a professional dog trainer is the best way of finding out the methods that will suit these dogs the best. If you or your neighbors are sensitive to noise, you should know that these dogs love to howl! While they might not bark as much as some other breeds, they are capable of making quite a racket. They also love spending time with their humans — so much so, that they can suffer from separation anxiety if left alone for long periods. Bassetoodles are registered with several breed registries. The Bassetoodle will follow its nose anywhere. This hybrid breed has inherited the superior tracking ability of its Basset Hound parent. In terms of scenting capabilities, the Basset Hound is the second most capable breed at sniffing out and following a scent. Their Bassetoodle progeny are also keen trackers as a result! While tracking a scent, the Bassetoodle will let out a loud bark. A throwback to their Basset Hound parent, this bark is designed to let handlers locate their dogs. The Bassetoodle combines the best of both parent breeds. Your pup may look more like their Poodle parent but have the character of a Basset Hound or the other way around! The best way to be sure this is the right breed for you is to familiarize yourself with the temperament, personality, and appearance of both parent breeds. They will be quietly loyal rather than constantly seeking affection. This is especially evident when they find an irresistible new scent trail to follow. They will simply switch off from everything else, put their nose to the ground, and track! With pack dog parents on the Basset Hound side of the family, these dogs want to be around people and other dogs. A Bassetoodle left alone for a long amount of time during the day will soon start to suffer from separation anxiety. This can lead to undesirable behaviors, including howling, barking, and chewing or clawing your furniture. Bassetoodles are intelligent and excellent problem solvers. Are These Dogs Good for Families? The smaller size and short legs of this breed make them great around kids or elderly family members. Make sure each animal has a space of their own to retreat to if they feel the need. Basset Hounds are known to be loyal sweethearts that bond closely with their families and are devoted to them. They are affectionate and playful. They tend to get along well with other dogs and children. But, they do tend to have a high prey drive, so they will need some extra socialization with any smaller pets in the household. You should be able to expect something similar in a Basset Hound Mix. The other parent breed could throw some other traits into the mix, so you do want to ask the breeder about them. You can also meet the mother dog in person to get another perspective on what temperament to expect in your Basset Hound Mix. Basset Hounds tend to be highly adaptable dogs. They do well in apartments as well as larger homes. Due to their high prey drive and strong nose, they should only be let off-leash in secure areas. After all, they are a hound dog! Although the other parent breed could affect some of these characteristics, you still want to be prepared for a Basset Hound Mix that takes after their Basset Hound parent. Are mixed-breed dogs healthier? They can be, but that is not a guarantee. A mixed-breed dog can inherit the potential health concerns from one, both, or neither of their parent breeds. From the Basset Hound side, some potential health concerns for a Basset Hound Mix could include hip dysplasia, elbow dysplasia, and glaucoma. Because of their long, droopy ears, Basset Hounds are also more prone to ear infections. If a Basset Hound Mix also has droopy ears, then they will also be more prone to developing ear infections. Basset Hounds are also at a higher risk for bloat. Also, reputable breeders screen their stock to avoid passing on issues to puppies, so you should be asking about the genetic and health history of both of the parents anyway. Although Basset Hounds can be a good fit for first-time dog owners, they can be stubborn. As such, puppy training classes are recommended. The other parent breed could be more easily trainable, but you will still want to be prepared for a potentially stubborn Basset Hound Mix. Regardless of owner experience or overall trainability of the dog, puppy training classes are still a good idea because they often offer opportunities to socialize a puppy. A mixed-breed dog can inherit a coat similar to one of their parents or a coat that is truly a blend of both. Weekly brushing, regular cleaning of the face wrinkles, and the occasional bath are usually enough to keep their coat looking great. The other parent breed in the mix could result in more or less required grooming. Trimming nails on a monthly basis is usually enough to keep them from growing too long. Weekly ear checks with careful cleanings as needed can help prevent ear infections. Since a Basset Hound Mix is likely to have droopy ears, they will be more prone to ear infections because their ears are more likely to trap dirt and moisture. Plus, if anything is happening, you can catch it early and get to the vet. Practicing good dental care for dogs is also important. Unfortunately, many dog owners overlook this, which is why gum disease is one of the most common health issues in dogs. By using an enzyme toothpaste or brushing teeth every day, you can help prevent painful dental diseases later in life. The Basset Hound is a playful dog that does not require a lot of exercise to be happy and healthy. The other parent breed in the cross could result in a higher-energy dog in a Basset Hound Mix. A fully-grown Basset Hound tends to stand inches tall and weigh pounds. The other parent breed could affect this and potentially result in a smaller or larger dog. Asking the breeder about the other parent breed and meeting the mother dog can give you a better idea of what size to expect in a Basset Hound Mix. A Basset Hound typically lives years. Although the other parent breed may affect this slightly, you should be able to expect something similar in a Basset Hound Mix. Featured Basset Hound Mix Article. Are you looking to add this charming pet to your household? Then it is important to get to know a bit about them first. Let us dive into it. What is a Bassetoodle? Since the exact origins of Bassetoodles are not clear, let us take a look at the history of the parent breeds: History of Basset Hounds Basset Hounds are hunting hounds that live and hunt in packs. The lineage of these short-legged dogs can be traced back to almost A. D in France. They became extremely popular in England where their avid hunting skills secured them a spot in the family. Basset Hounds are known for their loud and melodious barks. Their short legs keep their noses nearer to the ground which helps them in tracking prey as they hunt. Bassets are equipped with more than million smell receptors which give them their incredible ability to smell. History of Poodles The history of the Poodle dog breed is unclear; some people say that they originated in France while others believe that it is a German dog breed. In any case, Poodles were bred to work in water. Their tight curly coat is water resistant and also hypoallergenic. The Poodle breed is also known to be incredibly smart and they can learn tricks rather quickly. This has even earned them a spot in circuses and shows. Today, Poodles are popular dogs due to their non-shedding coats and high trainability. Bassetoodle Origins The Bassetoodle breed may have first originated in the s since more and more people wanted smart and easy-to-train dogs. Moreover, Poodles were ideal dogs for crossing with other dogs given their hypoallergenic coats — making them popular with allergy sufferers. Note that the American Kennel Club does not recognise the Bassetoodle since it is a hybrid dog. What Does a Bassetoodle Look Like? The height and weight of Bassetoodles are not standard. Being a designer dog, there can be many variations and breeders often use Standard, Miniature or Toy Poodles for breeding Bassetoodles. In general, most Bassetoodles grow up to 12 to 16 inches .Some Bassetoodles may develop the long ears of the Basset Hound as well as long bodies and short legs. Their heads could be large and domed. Some Bassetoodles inherit the sad and mournful-looking eyes of the Basset Hounds while others may acquire the oval-shaped eyes of the Poodle parent. If your pet inherits the droopy jowls of the Basset Hound parent, it might make a mess while drinking water. Bassetoodles mostly come in colours like brown, tan, white, cream, red, blue, black, or grey coats. Their coat can be tight and wiry like the Poodles or short and smooth like the Basset Hound. Are Bassetoodles Hypoallergenic? According to the International Doodle Owners Group IDOG which rescues Goldendoodles and Labradoodles, the reason why so many Doodle dogs hybrid dogs with one Poodle parent end up in rescue shelters is due to unrealistic expectations. Many people fall for false marketing gimmicks which state that all Doodle dogs are non-shedding or hypoallergenic. That is not the case. Not all Doodle breeds are hypoallergenic. This is also applicable to Bassetoodles. So, a person with dog allergies could still experience symptoms around the so-called hypoallergenic dog breeds and Doodle dogs as well. Allergy sufferers should look for F1b Bassetoodle puppies for sale near them. F1b generation doodle mixes have more poodle genes and therefore often inherit the non-shedding coat. The best poodle mix breeders DNA test their breeding dogs for coat traits. Such breeders can then make informed decisions about what coat types the puppies they breed will inherit. Basset-Poodle mixes are stubborn, sweet, sassy, smart, and goofy teddy bear dogs. They are affectionate, friendly, and funny and tend to be extremely docile with other dogs and kids. The reason why Bassetoodles get along well with humans and other dogs is because of their strong pack mentality. They love being part of all family activities and can freak out when someone leaves. Like most poodle mix breeds, Bassetpoos can suffer from separation anxiety and early training that builds their independence is critical to their mental well-being. If you train your doodle puppy to do one thing, the crate training method should definitely be at the top of your list! Independence is an important life skill that will help protect your puppy from developing common behaviour problems like separation anxiety, barking and destructive chewing. You can start crate training from the time you bring your puppy home at 8 weeks of age. These friendly dogs do not make good guard dogs — they simply cannot bark at strangers and love making friends with anyone they meet. If your Doodle inherits the Basset Hound genes, it will relentlessly track down small animals like squirrels, possums and rabbits. These scent-driven dogs can even smell a steak being cooked miles away! The downside to this is that they have a tendency to run. Once your Bassetoodle catches an interesting scent, it will track it. So, you must secure your yard to prevent this from happening. Bassetoodles are expert diggers as well. They can easily dig under fences so make sure you put in adequate reinforcements. As far as training is concerned, most Bassetoodle owners will tell you that these dogs are easy to train. However, they still need consistent and patient handling. In other words, your pet is looking up to you to show them how to behave. If you fail to take on that role, your Bassetoodle might step in and take it for you. After all, dogs become more of what they do everyday! Even with plenty of training and socialisation , Bassetoodles can be flat-out obstinate and even stubborn at times. Ask any Bassetoodle owner and they might tell you that these dogs obey but at their own pace. While most Bassetoodles are loyal and loving, they are not big on cuddling or snuggling. Is a Bassetoodle Right for You? Bassetoodles make great dogs for most households. However, they are working and hunting dogs, due to their genes. This means that they need plenty of mental and physical stimulation. Without these, they tend to get very bored. Also, Bassetpoos are known for being quite sensitive. So, you must never use punishment or negative training methods. These will only make your dog timid or even aggressive. These compact-sized dogs usually have low energy which makes them great for most dwellings. They are den dogs and will gladly curl up under your desk or on the sofa by your side. They are good for apartment dwellers but need some sort of outdoor space to bask in the sun. If you plan to keep your Bassetoodle on a farm or a ranch, make sure you secure the free-range chicken area! How Much Does a Bassetoodle Cost? Since this is a relatively rare breed, you might not find too many breeders of Bassetoodles around. Expect to have long wait times for your puppy to arrive. You may also want to think of budgeting for annual vet bills, dog food, training, pet insurance, and grooming costs. You must consider whether you can afford this huge cost before bringing home your Doodle. What to Feed a Bassetoodle? Failure to feed your Bassetoodle a nutritionally sound diet can lead to many health issues. Heart problems, obesity, and diabetes are all diet-related diseases seen in the breed. Always consult your vet nutritionist regarding the right diet to feed your Doodle. In general, Bassetoodle puppies need a diet formulated for growth whereas older dogs need a maintenance diet. Health Issues in Bassetoodles? How Long Do Bassetoodles Live As with any designer dogs, Bassetoodles are prone to the same health problems seen in the parent dog breeds. Basset Hounds usually suffer from health issues like glaucoma, hip and elbow dysplasia, luxating patella, and gastric torsion. With proper care, Bassetoodles can live for almost years. Subscribe for comprehensive Doodle breed information and exclusive offers on the best products for your pup! Leave this field empty if you're human: Share this.

Categories Dog Fun , Dog Training Boxers, like any other active dog breed, needs their fair share of daily exercise. Swimming may seem like a great option for a sunny day. However, Boxers are heavy-boned dogs with a wide frame. So, can Boxers swim or will they sink? Boxers can and often do enjoy swimming, however, they are at risk while swimming in bodies of water. For this reason, safety precautions are necessary. Plenty of Boxers have successfully become good swimmers. But before you throw your Boxer in the deep end, there are things you should know. Some breeds, such as the Golden Retriever or Chesapeake Retriever, were actually bred to swim. Needless to say, this is not the case with Boxers. And while plenty of Boxers regularly swim, they have clear disadvantages in the water that all owners need to know about before putting them in the pool. In fact, I think the adorable faces are the best part of the Boxer. Specifically, it makes it more difficult for Boxers to breath while treading in water. Dog breeds with these facial characteristics are called Brachycephalic dogs. All of which, should be carefully monitored when put into large bodies of water. However, when these dogs have to tilt their heads upwards while in water, the restriction can be much greater. The unnatural position while dog paddling puts your Boxer at a huge disadvantage while swimming. So, the best way to help them in the water is to provide a life jacket to give them a more natural posture in the water. Weighing in at around 60 pounds and standing roughly 22 inches tall, Boxers are a fairly typical medium dog. Combine that with the difficulty of breathing and you could potentially have a real big problem on your hands. Once again, the best way to counter this problem is to provide them with a life jacket. As you may have guessed, Boxers are not one of them. In fact, they were not purposely bred to be anywhere near water. On the contrary, Boxers were specifically bred for bull-baiting now, an illegal blood sport and later on, as multi-purpose farm dogs. The most successful working Boxers most likely never even played in the nearby lakes! In addition, they pulled carriages for butchers to the slaughterhouses, among many other farm jobs. Can Your Boxer Swim? Whether a Boxer is good at swimming depends on the individual dog. Even whether a Boxer will enjoy a swim will greatly vary. With that said, we surveyed real Boxer owners to ask the question: can your Boxer swim? Responses are collected from various dog forums, including the popular Boxer Subreddit. Real Owner Answers: 1. She knew she loved water the moment we first visited a lake. It was love at first sight for her. My girl will only go as far as getting her toes wet, but will avoid getting her chest wet. My dog will sink and walk along the bottom. She will claw at me when I attempt to teach her how to swim. Still a big improvement from before. I spent a couple hours in the water with him trying to help him keep his front paws under water while paddling. In water, he goes nearly vertical even with a life vest on. Before you start, remember that you should never force your Boxer into the water. After all, Boxers are brachycephalic dog breeds. Anxiety, fear and panic, combined with their unique facial structures will make it even harder to breath while swimming. Here are the steps to getting your Boxer to swim with you in no time! Boxers Need a Life Vest Important! And by equipment, I really only mean a life vest. Even the AKC recommends the use of life vests. Not only will a life vest give your Boxer a nice boost of confidence but it also gives you, the owner, some peace of mind. Unless your dog is already super experienced, I never recommend going without a life vest. A big reason why we recommend a life vest is because novice dog swimmers will only paddle their front feet as the bottom feet looks for the ground. It looks very comfortable for the dog, which is crucial in the beginning stages. Plus, the bright colors makes your dog highly visible. Next, you can fill a portable kid pool or bathroom tub with water and let them literally get their feet wet. Keep in mind, the second step should take a while. Spend multiple days playing in a tub of water prior to the day planned for swimming. Whether a pool or lake, let your dog sniff the water and get used to the sight of the body of water. Start Shallow This seems obvious, but apparently not to every dog owner. Always start with the shallow end first. The quickest way to freak out your Boxer is by throwing the dog into the deep end for the first time. Before getting into the shallow end, make sure the life vest is on at this point. Instead, try bribing them with some delicious treats make sure to only bring the best. As they get closer into the water, or deeper in, make sure to give positive praises along the way. Boxers thrive on positive reinforcement. So, it really helps their confidence by doing so. If your dog has a favorite toy, make sure to bring that with you too. Try throwing their toy into the water. Once your Boxer gets into the water, slowly bribe them to go deeper and deeper. Here are some extra tips from the professionals. PetMD suggests that you always start with a dog leash in addition to the life vest on your Boxer. Not only will it keep your dog from swimming too far out, but it will give both you and your dog an extra sense of security. The best way to get your dog into the water is by getting into the water with them. Dogs learn a lot from their owners. And if your Boxer has a dog-friend that already knows and loves to swim, bring that friend too! Dogs are also great at learning from each other. Tell us in the comments section below, does your Boxer swim? Is your dog good or bad at swimming? Posts you may like:. End results -- your Boxer will learn to have fun and gain confidence! Swimming, whether in a pool or a lake can be very enjoyable form of exercise for both you and your Boxer. It is an excellent way to condition your dog for the show ring, weight loss or for physical therapy in dogs with Degenerative Myelopathy. As with any new physical activity, make sure your dog has a thorough check-up with your veterinarian before starting. Precautions must be taken to ensure your dog's safety. Being deep-chested and tailless, our Boxers need plenty of instruction learning to turn and maneuver in the water. Boxer's do not have the benefit of a rudder tail to help them steer, for example. Invest in a good quality canine life jacket. Fitted properly, the life jacket should fit snugly, which prevents the dog from slipping out of the jacket. I prefer the longer type, as they help to keep the dog's hindquarters afloat. A buckle collar is important so that you can lend guidance and support to your dog, as well as for your use in the event of an emergency. As you will be in the water with your dog, teaching and assisting, I recommend that YOU wear protective clothing, such as jeans and a long sleeved shirt, to prevent being clawed or bruised. To get started, socialize young pups 6 to 8 weeks of age to a running water hose. This will stimulate curiosity and offer a new tactile experience. Small baby pools and shallow lake banks are great places to work with younger dogs in helping them to become comfortable with having their feet and legs submerged. Do not expect your dog to be a "natural". Starting to swim will require your patience and encouragement. It takes more than a few times in the pool or the lake before your Boxer starts to really enjoy himself. If your dog is strongly motivated by toys, use one that floats to coax him into the water. Teaching your dog to safely enter and exit the water is critical. If teaching in a pool, use the stairs to lower your dog into the water each time and as the exit as well. Some suggest that you use a large cone marker or bicycle flag to help visually mark the stair or shoreline exit for your dog. The first time you and your Boxer enter the water, try to make it a positive and pleasant experience. Support the dog's body with your arms underneath his chest and lower him into the water one step at a time. Some dogs will splash wildly around when they first start. This is normal and will soon subside as your dog starts to relax and learn to effectively propel himself through the water. The transitional step, when your Boxer's feet no longer touch the bottom, being totally suspended in the water, is most critical. Float him in front of you as walk around in the water, lending your support with your arm under his belly. Helping your Boxer to keep his front feet under the water will minimize splashing. You may need to repeat this a number of times depending how quickly his level of confidence increases. Once your dog feels, at ease in the water with your assistance, it is s time to let him start on his own. With your support, swim him out into the water or to the center of the pool and point him in the direction of his exit or the shoreline. Guide him to the steps or shoreline and praise heavily. Repeat as many times as needed to build his confidence. Next, encourage him to swim toward you, rather than to the exit or shoreline. Swimming is well known to slow progression, strengthening leg muscles, giving your older Boxer a therapeutic workout. Again, your Boxer should have a thorough check-up by his veterinarian before starting this type of exercise. Chances are, if you are just now introducing your older Boxer to swim, extra patience will be needed, as older dogs wiII not acclimate to the water as easily as the youngsters will. While he is swimming, you will need to lend extra support to his hindquarters. Using the longer type of canine life jacket will help in keeping his back end buoyant. Swimming sessions should be short, but gradually lengthened each time. Some dogs may need to start out for only one minute. Swimming Tips: Never leave your dog unattended around the pool. Teach him the entry and exit. Use a canine life jacket at all times. Swimming is hard work, so keep sessions short and do not overtire your Boxer. Use your dog's favorite floating toy or ball to help motivate him to get in the water. Try to let your Boxer swim with other accomplished swimming dogs. He will learn from them as well. Boxer's will ingest a lot of water while swimming. It is a good idea to allow your dog ample opportunities to relieve himself, long after he has left the pool or lake. By: Tracy L.

Read more about the pups that are currently up for adoption. Read More… Foster Dogs FBRN is being faced with an increasing number of dogs who are ill, handicapped, or need expensive veterinary care before being placed. Meet our Foster Frenchies and please consider sponsoring one of them to ensure that they receive the care that they need. Read More… Surrender a Dog Life has thrown you a curve ball and you must surrender your French Bulldog… we are here to help! Read More… Volunteer We welcome you to join us in our efforts to rehabilitate and rehome needy French Bulldogs. We have many options for you to choose from, depending on your circumstances, time and resources. Our organization is composed solely of volunteers who nurture and foster these dogs as well as provide education and training. Our goal is to place healthy and happy French Bulldogs into forever homes. Read More… Contact Us Learn about the many ways that you can get in touch with us. He has a Staffie sister, Lettie, who he adores and who has taught him so much with her gentle patience. He has doggie friends at daycamp he sees once a week. He is the best snuggler ever! He used to be a resource guarder, but will now bring you his toys for a treat! He loves our daily walks and meeting people. Thank you FBRN for picking us to be his family- we love him so much! Despite being mostly blind and deaf, Ham is thriving in his golden years, especially with his folks now working from home. Thank you FBRN for our goodest good boy! We are so grateful for every day with him. She had cherry eye surgery in March right before Covid quarantine and the surgery was a success. A gigantic thank you to FBRN for allowing me to adopt this perfect little nugget. All Rights Reserved. A c 3 Non-Profit Organization. Tax ID: .Powered by Geeks4Rent. Vocality level 3 in 5 Disclaimer: While the characteristics mentioned here may frequently represent this breed, dogs are individuals whose personalities and appearances will vary. Please consult the adoption organization for details on a specific pet. Temperament The French Bulldog is a clown in a lapdog. They enjoy playing and entertaining their family, as well as cuddling and snoozing with their favorite person. They are amiable, sweet, companionable, and willing to please. A short walk on lead is sufficient to meet most of its physical needs. Frenchie snores and may wheeze and drool. Require minimal coat care Facial wrinkles should be regularly cleaned. Brachycephalic syndrome stenotic nares, elongated soft palate Intervertebral disk disease CHD seldom causes symptoms or problems Allergies History Where are French Bulldogs from? In the nineteenth century, the Bulldog was fairly popular in England, especially around Nottingham. The French women, especially, were attracted to these little Bulldogs, especially those with erect ears a common but disliked feature in England. Dog dealers brought more of the clownish little dogs to France, where they soon became the rage of Paris. The dogs were dubbed Bouledogue Francais. How big do French Bulldogs get? Some Bulldogs are quite small weighing less than 25 lbs, however, dogs in this breed on average, weigh 28 lbs. What are some French Bulldog facts and information? Facts French Bulldogs are best known for: Bat ears.

Ready looking for their home now , 12 weeks old, They three boys. Mum and dad are both full pedigree and both here to view with pups. My puppies are straight back and short haired. Puppies are fled and wormed to date, microchipped, come with a scented from mum and a small bag of food. All of my puppies have great temperaments and have been raised with our loving family Kingston german shepherd Jamaica German Shepherd Puppies german shepherd Kingston, Jamaica German Shepherd Puppies We have a stunning mixed litter of German shepherd puppies waiting for forever loving homes. Only 1 boy and 1 girl available, well socialised brought up in a family with children and other pets. All have been wormed from 2 weeks. All will be Microchipped and first vaccine given before they leave. On our online store you can have a range of Showline german shepherd puppies for sale available and you can choose from there the best puppy according to your demand and liking. We breed our puppies in the best ethical conditions to meet the standard level. Ready for loving homes by Will have shots. Vet checked Please Contact me back by Email: sandrinemayer39 gmail. Akc registration papers, 2 puppies vaccinations, health records, and health guarantee. This breed thrives on companionship as well, and they will form extremely close bonds with their family. Kingston german shepherd Jamaica. Ready looking for their home now , 12 weeks old, They three boys. Mum and dad are both full pedigree and both here to view with pups. My puppies are straight back and short haired. Puppies are fled and wormed to date, microchipped, come with a scented from mum and a small bag of food. All of my puppies have great temperaments and have been raised with our loving family Yallahs german shepherd Jamaica German Shepherd Puppies german shepherd Yallahs, Jamaica German Shepherd Puppies We have a stunning mixed litter of German shepherd puppies waiting for forever loving homes. Only 1 boy and 1 girl available, well socialised brought up in a family with children and other pets. All have been wormed from 2 weeks. All will be Microchipped and first vaccine given before they leave. On our online store you can have a range of Showline german shepherd puppies for sale available and you can choose from there the best puppy according to your demand and liking. We breed our puppies in the best ethical conditions to meet the standard level. Ready for loving homes by Will have shots. Vet checked Please Contact me back by Email: sandrinemayer39 gmail. Akc registration papers, 2 puppies vaccinations, health records, and health guarantee. This breed thrives on companionship as well, and they will form extremely close bonds with their family. Yallahs german shepherd Jamaica. Too often, unsuspecting people buy puppies from puppy mills, or sometimes neighbors who breed their dog to make a little money or simply because they have a dog "with papers. A German Shepherd Dog who has genetic health problems due to poor breeding practices or who develops significant behavior problems due to a lack of early socialization can cost thousands of dollars to treat—and result in grief and heartache as well. The last place on earth that I would look for a German Shepherd Puppy is in a pet store. Any breeder that is forced to sell his puppies to a pet store has no credibility. This only indicates he has no reputation as a breeder and nowhere else to sell his dogs. The majority of the dogs that end up in pet stores come from puppy mills. Puppy mills are a legitimate despicable business in many states and countries. You are definitely at the right site to begin with. Always do your Homework! Use the contact form below the Breeders Ad that interests you and ask questions. Make sure that they offer a dog health guarantee. Bookmark and share this category: Classified Ads Top Tags.

However, this is not the case at all. Dogs especially golden retrievers need to be taught how to walk on a leash without pulling. The video is embedded at the bottom of this post and will give you some good visual aids for the steps outlined in this article. The biggest reason is that they have not been taught not to! They love life and are very curious, so when they see a new sight, or smell a new smell, they get excited and want to go explore it. She sees a leaf blow by and wants to go check it out so she pulls towards it. And this is how puppies learn to pull on a leash. Set Your Golden Up For Success With Loose Leash Walking Alright now that your dog is comfortable with wearing a harness with a leash attached, the next step is to start teaching loose leash walking! But before you start it, you need to set them up for success. Playing tug or fetch before you train will help take the edge off and make walking on a leash without pulling a lot easier. Another tip for setting them up for success is to work on loose leash walking in an area with minimal distractions. Start in the house, and then when they can pay attention to you and not pull in the house, go outside in the back yard or right in front of the house. Slowly work towards more and more distracting environments, until they can pay attention to you and not pull on the leash anywhere. This works for three reasons: It rewards them for good behavior before they can start pulling It brings and keeps them close to you as they come to get the treat It encourages them to continue this good behavior If you have a young puppy who rarely walks well on a leash, proactively mark and reward them often for walking well. But once they look away from the distraction, reward and praise them heavily for that. Reactive Strategy The reactive strategy is how to handle your dog when they start to pull. Instead, if they start pulling you want to use the stop and go strategy. When they start pulling you stop moving. Once they loosen up on the leash, you can move forward again. In addition to just stopping and going, you can also turn around each time your dog tries to pull in one direction. I was watching a video recently where a trainer tried 32 times to walk outside the door with a dog that loved to pull. It may take you 20 minutes to walk one block or just to even get out of the door , but it will be worth it once your dog learns to walk on a loose leash. You probably had training wheels to get you started, but eventually, you graduated and learned to ride a bike without training wheels. The training wheels were a tool to help you learn to ride a bike and there are also tools to help your pup learn to walk on a leash. This is better than them pulling with the harness clipped in the back where they can really get some power in pulling on the leash or with a flat buckle collar where they can damage their neck or throat. When they stop pulling on the leash with clipped in front, you can start testing out and seeing how they do with a flat buckle collar or with the leash clipped on the back of the body harness. You may need to go back to the basics, like practicing the proactive strategy, or even go into an environment with fewer distractions like inside of your home , but your dog will likely be able to make progress quickly. Sniffing And Walking Dogs have really powerful noses and they love to sniff, so they should be allowed to sniff on a walk. If they try to pull, stand still, and then when they loosen up on the leash come back to you, you can either continue on with the walk or let them continue to sniff. Teaching your golden retriever to walk on a loose leash can take several months to a year or even longer. All dogs are different and it also depends on these two things: How often you work on loose leash walking How consistent you and your family are. For instance, if you never let your pup pull and move forward, but your kid or spouse lets them get away with pulling when they walk them, it will take a lot longer. It requires a lot of patience but it will be worth it once you can go on a relaxing, enjoyable walk with your dog. The walk needs to be enjoyable for both you and your dog, so they should be allowed to relax and sniff as you two are walking, not strictly stick by your side and suppress their natural desire to sniff and explore. Use the stop and go method. They may get used to saying hi to everyone and try to pull every time they see someone. Continued intense pulling could hurt their neck or throat, so consider using a body harness. Conclusion Teaching your golden retriever to walk nicely on a leash may take several months and lots of patience, but you can do it and it will be worth it. Have any questions about teaching your golden retriever to walk on a leash? Let me know in the comments below! Related articles:. Leash training begins not with your dog but with your mindset. Goldens are intelligent, people-pleasing dogs. Begin your leash training — and every walk after that — with a calm mindset, and your dog will follow. The leader goes through the door first, so work on proper door etiquette until your puppy or dog has the right idea. This sets up your walk to succeed from the beginning. If you allow your dog to pull you over to greet the dog across the street or to sniff that really lovely tree, your dog is the winner in this tug of war. Instead, when your dog starts pulling, stand in one spot. Beginning this training with puppies makes stopping easier, but plant your feet even with a full-grown dog. Reward walking correctly Choose a very small type of treat your dog only gets on walks and use this to reinforce good behavior. Every so often as your dog walks correctly, praise your golden and dish out a treat. Eventually, wean your dog off the treats but always praise good behavior. Goldens respond really well to this type of verbal confirmation. Walk often Make walks a regular part of your routine. At least once a day, preferably twice, walk your dog for a period of 15 to 30 minutes. This routine is a huge part of keeping your golden leash trained for walks. Put it in your calendar or set a reminder on your phone — whatever it takes to get outside. Remember to always use positive reinforcement. Yelling or other punishment types of motivation could backfire. Your golden may end up with more energy or fear of walking. Step 1: Put the leash on your golden while in the house. If your golden is afraid of the leash, reward him with treats when he allows you to put it on him. Step 2: While inside, walk back and forth with your dog, stopping when he pulls on the leash. This method begins to teach your golden what to expect. Golden retrievers are friendly, happy dogs, who want to greet and play with everyone they meet out walking. This leads to leash pulling, and it can happen in puppies as well as adult dogs. It can start to feel like there is nothing you can do to stop your dog from pulling at the leash, except go along with it, or reduce the number of walks. We're here to help. Let's look at some tips to stop your golden retriever from pulling at his leash. Train Them Young When you get a puppy, you should start leash training right away. Many people make the mistake of not doing so, but the sooner good leash manners are instilled in your little Golden, the better. Even if he is just 8 weeks old. Far better to start with a puppy than a 60 pound growing dog. Have the Right Tools With any task that you do, things will be easier if you have the right tools and this is no different. If your golden retriever is still learning how to walk, it is best to not use a retractable leash. If you use a retractable leash, your golden cannot learn what distance he can go that is within his accepted boundaries. It is much better to use a fixed length leash. Another good alternative is our Sierra Dog Leash. A front lead harness like our Adventure Harness , Sports Harness or Urban Harness can also be helpful because as your dog starts pulling, a front lead harness will gently redirect his force to the side, so that he cannot go where he wants to go. He will soon learn that pulling doesn't get him to where he wants to go. A harness and leash aren't magically going to make your dog not pull, but the right tools will go a long way to helping you train your golden retriever. Teach Self Control Golden retrievers have a lot of energy, and have to be taught self control. Knowing and obeying commands will help your dog stay calm and cool while out on a walk. Starting with basic commands like, sit, stay, go to bed, etc, are all good ways for you to work with your puppy on self control. Don't Play Tug With The Leash If your dog is in the habit of pulling on the leash, it is very important to not pull back. Big dogs like golden retrievers tend to respond to pressure on their leashes with even more pressure, leading to a tug of war between you and your dog. That's taking a bad habit and making it worse. Instead, stop and wait until your dog comes back to your side, or call him back by name. Don't reel him in, but keep the leash slack and relaxed and wait for him to come. Reward Correct Position Rewarding your dog for good behavior is important. Whenever your golden retriever is walking calmly by your side with a loose leash, make sure to reward him. Turning it into a game, something golden retrievers love, will make it a fun learning process for him. Rewarding him with his favorite treats, toys or praise, whatever he likes, will ensure that he repeats the good behavior. Golden retrievers tend to get more excited than most other breeds. Try tiring your dog out before taking him for a walk. You might find that it makes a difference. Easy ways to do this is to play fetch with them, or make them chase their favorite toys. Sometimes, your dog might even be too tired to go for a walk. Keep in mind that your dog may become overly tired with the walking and the learning, so be sure to keep the sessions short and fun. Dogs will repeat behavior that gets reinforced, so it's important to ensure that your golden retriever is not being rewarded for pulling on his leash. For example, if he pulls on the leash because he wants to sniff at a bush or greet a person on the street, and you let him do it, then he will continue to pull. You have just reinforced his bad behavior. So if you feel your golden retriever pulling you in one direction, you need to plant your feet and not move, until he returns to you. If your dog is very strong, you can start walking in the opposite direction. As soon as he is walking next to you calmly, you can turn around and go in the direction he wants. Dogs are smart creatures, and golden retrievers are no exception. They are quick learners, and eager to please you. The tips in this article, coupled with patience and determination, not to mention treats, will help you train your golden retriever not to pull and make your walks enjoyable for the both of you. Related Products. Her guardians set up a dog obedience training session with us for leash training to help Sunshine stop pulling on the leash, as well as counterconditioning with the cats and basic dog obedience training. When I arrived at the house, Sunshine was sleeping in the living room and did not come to greet me until her name was called. Once she came over to me, she started to jump up but quickly settled back down. The more times you use a command the less likely your dog is to listen. As a dog behaviorist I have learned that desensitization is a bad habit many dog guardians pick up unintentionally. Repeating a word or command that your dog is not responding to you is almost a textbook definition of desensitization. Dogs eat in the order of their rank, so simply by having the guardians eat before them it helps the dog develop self control and see the humans as having more rank or authority. Like all dogs, Sunshine needs plenty of exercise. The guardians had used a retractable leash, which allows Sunshine a lot of freedom. But if you have a dog that is not well behaved on the leash this additional amount of freedom can contribute to the problem. This same principal applies to your dog walking on the leash. I introduced a martingale collar with a straight leash to do some leash training with Sunshine. You can see pick up some free dog training tips to get your dog to stop pulling on the leash in the video below. As you can see in the video, Sunshine needed some initial corrections to help her learn how to be successful at loose leash walking. The goal of this exercise is to have Sunshine comfortably walking next to her guardian without pulling on the leash. We call this a structured walk. A dog training tip for high energy dogs; take them out with a ten minute game of fetch in your backyard before your walk. This lets you help your dog burn off excess energy, which puts them in a position to succeed and makes it easy for them to pay attention to you when you are on the walk. Just make sure to give your dog a ten minute recovery period inside before you go on your walk. During the session we discussed a number of positive dog training methods, such as always using treats to reward your dog for good behavior. For many dogs, including Sunshine, food is a strong motivator and is a great way to accomplish new skills and reward good dog behavior. By adding structured feeding, plenty of exercise, Petting with a Purpose and prating the other techniques we covered during the session Sunshine can continue her good behavior. Share this:. Read the full disclosure here. Use the methods described in this article to start teaching your puppy good leash-walking habits from the start. Do you do any of the things below? How so? It teaches your dog that the more they pull, the further the leash goes, so the instinct to pull becomes ingrained as a habit. If you do use a retractable leash, switch it out to a regular leash and donate your retractable one to your local animal shelter. Dogs, especially larger breeds such as Golden Retrievers, tend to respond to pressure on the leash with even more pressure. Instead, if your dog pulls on the leash, stop on the spot and wait until they come back to stand by your side. Keep the leash slack and relaxed, and wait for your pooch to make the move literally back to you. You can see how this creates a cycle of heavy pulling and really affects your leadership role. Actually, the trick — as you may already suspect — is just the same as it is with any other type of training: It takes patience, repetition and rewarding of good behavior to get good results. Consistency will pay off for you here. Your dog needs to understand that pulling never gets them what they want. Instead, try the below methods before you head off to the pet store to plunk down hard cash on anti-pulling products. Look At Walks As Training Sessions, Not Just Exercise Every time you take your dog out for a walk on a leash is another great opportunity for you to teach them better manners. But as with all training, your golden retriever and you may quickly become over tired, so be sure to keep these training sessions short, frequent and fun. Try tiring out your dog before you go on a walk and see if it makes a difference. In most cases, it will! Play fetch in your backyard and make them chase their toy over and over. Timing praise and rewards right after they do something you like is the absolute best way to communicate what you want and encouragement for your dog to perform the behavior again. Treat them for walking nicely beside you — we have more advice on this in a section below. To train your dog to not get excited before a walk , simply ask for a sit, reach out to clip the leash to the collar…but do not do it until your dog is calmly sitting. If they go ballistic with excitement, stand upright, holding your arms crossed and the leash out of their reach and wait until they calm down. Then try again. If they pick up with exuberant energy again before you finish clipping on the leash on, take the leash away and start over. Only clip the leash on when your dog is completely chill. Head Halters Similar in looks to a muzzle, a head halter is an okay choice for strong breeds such as a Golden Retriever. When a dog wearing a head halter pulls on the leash, the halter forces their head to the side. If you do want to use a head halter, be aware that while puppies do well when started on it early, adult dogs sometimes fight when fitted with a head halter and you should take some measured time to get them used to it over days before heading out on a walk. Harnesses Some harnesses work in the same way as head halters, by turning the dog to the side if they pull. These types of harness have a ring on the front of the chest, not on the back, so the dog is turned unless the leash is loose. Instead, use compassion, understanding and patience to teach your dog how to properly walk on a leash. So we will leave the discussion of these collars right there. The best course of action is to take on board a little of everything written above that can help in the short-term, and to actively use a mix of the following three methods during purposeful, scheduled training sessions to help in the long-term. The essence of the technique is that once your dog reaches the end of the leash and is pulling, you simply stop the walk. Halt completely, dead in your tracks. You then rinse and repeat, only ever walking when the leash is loose, never letting your dog walk ahead pulling and you stop if they do. The theory is that by repeating this technique again and again…and again and again…repeatedly over and over, your dog soon learns that if they pull on the leash, they go nowhere. If the leash is slack, they get to continue on the walk. This method works on the principle that a dog only gets the reward that they want — moving toward where they want to be — if they do what YOU want — Walking on a loose leash. So unless you can truly handle the dog, you may get pulled over. Depending on how much of a puller you have on your hands — or leash — this technique may take time. But it does work, so be patient, practice a few times each day, and stick with it until you see results. When they pull, practice the above, and call them back and ask for a sit before treating them and setting off again. Just be sure to treat randomly, not every single time! But if they do, with no warning, simply stop, turn degrees and walk the other way. You may need a strong arm! As they turn to walk with you, give praise and maybe even a treat as they get beside you — but not in front of you — and then turn once more to go back in the original direction. Repeat this as many times as necessary, until they get the idea and do not pull. You may look a little silly if you practice in a busy park, so find a quiet spot if I were you. This is unpleasant and something they will want to avoid if they can. It teaches your dog that walking ahead and reaching the end of the leash has the opposite effect to what they want to achieve: Moving forward. In fact they end up walking away from where they want to go. It has the effect that it keeps your dog guessing so they have to concentrate on you. When you start to walk your golden retriever, make sure they know you have some treats in your hand by holding them in front of their nose, but in a closed fist so they cannot get them. Set off walking and they will follow close beside you, their nose to your hand with the treat within it. You are luring them to walk nicely beside you. For every few correct steps beside you on a loose leash, tell them how they good they are and pop a little treat in their mouth. Best though is to stop, call them back, ask for a sit and then lure them to walk beside you again with a treat in your hand. After some days of this training a few times per day, do not have the treats in your hand but have some on your person so you can still treat them liberally, but they are choosing to walk beside you, not merely following the treat in your hand. Once they have got the skill down, extend the amount of steps they must take before they get a treat, with the ultimate aim of slowly over days — or likely weeks — having them walk large distances beside you with a treat only every few minutes. Conclusion Pulling on the leash is a very common problem that many dog owners are faced with, particularly those with strong, high energy breeds such as Goldens. Armed with the advice in this article, patience, dedication and compassion, you can leash train your dog to walk beside with impeccable manners. Have any questions or comments about this article? Join the discussion, and share your experience and knowledge in the comments below. Recommended Comprehensive Training Course. Use tab to navigate through the menu items. Heather Orth 2 min read How to leash train your golden retriever? Golden Retrievers are very intelligent and considered easy dogs to train! By nature, they are a people-pleasing breed and with some motivation and understanding of their personality, you will be able to train your dog well. In this blog, we will talk about everything you need to know regarding your dog's leash training. Leash training includes your puppy of course, but it actually starts with your mindset and your initiative. Here is a list of tips that will help you Leash Train your dog: 1. While getting your dog leashed, it is important to ensure that you stay calm and comfort your dog while leashing them up! Through this, you will gain your puppy will gain confidence and will feel secure as they get used to being on a lead. When you take your puppy out for a walk, they will want to interact with the other dogs and they will be excited to take in all the smells, from bushes to trees to anything on the side of the path. Instead, when you see them getting ready to bolt in a direction you do not want them to go, simply hold still while holding the leash. Through this gesture, the dog will understand that they are not going in the right direction and with repetition, it will begin to follow your lead. Walk Often As much as possible, make walks a regular part of your daily routine. Go on a walk with your retriever once or twice a day. Going on a walk for at least 20 to 30 minutes is recommended once or twice a day. Through this, your dog will be able to get comfortable with the leash, and you will be able to create a good bond with your furry friend! If you are interested in getting an English Cream Golden Retrieve, we would encourage you to check out our website at Sweet Cream Goldens. We have healthy, family-friendly White golden retrievers who are ready to go to their new forever family! Visit our website at www.

Umbilical cord training Throughout the rest of this guide I will be referring to each of these 4 methods and when you should or could be using them. Once used to using the paper or the pads, you slowly cut the area covered until they reliably use just a couple of sheets and never miss. You then slowly move the paper toward the outside where another set is placed and you begin to encourage your puppy to go outside only, before completely removing the papers inside. At this point they will have made the transition. A top tip when paper training is when you clean away soiled paper, you should hold one piece back and place it as a middle layer of the new papers. Puppy pads have a scent that attracts a puppy, paper does not. Effectiveness: On a scale of 1 to 5, I give it a 3. This is confusing and will make the learning process take longer. Best suited to: Either people who are going to have an indoor bathroom spot long-term, or people who will not use a crate for training yet cannot commit to constantly supervising their puppy when inside the home. Ease of use: On a scale of 1 to 5, definitely a 5. But it does result in more mistakes from your puppy until later in life. Equipment needed: Nothing but stacks of old newspapers! A very cost-effective method. Description: The method takes advantage of the fact dogs have a natural instinct not to soil the area where they eat and sleep. Key to this is making the crate just large enough to stand in, turn around easily and lay down stretched out but no bigger. The rest of the time you watch them and regularly take them outside to potty to teach them good habits. Best suited to: Everybody! This is because you will have to crate train your puppy before you can use a crate for house training which does take time and effort. Click here for my free and detailed guide to crate training your puppy. Equipment needed: A suitable crate. I have a guide to help you select the right size and type that you can read by clicking here. Effectiveness: On a scale of 1 to 5, I tentatively give it a 3. It could actually score higher or lower depending on how committed you are and how successful at supervising your puppy you are. Best suited to: People who are against any kind of confinement and can stay at home to watch their puppy all day every day. Mostly people who work from home and the retired. But this method also forms a part of every house training plan, whether you use other methods alongside or not. This is because when a puppy is free inside a home, they MUST be closely supervised to prevent any mistakes. Ease of use: On a scale of 1 to 5, I give it a 2. It scores low as it requires a lot of input from you as the owner. It is quite draining never being able to take your eye of your puppy. Equipment needed: None. Not a crate, newspapers, puppy pads or anything. The cheapest of all the methods…unless you put a price on your time. But it is highly effective. Description: This technique calls for you to tether your puppy to you by leash and have them follow you wherever you go when inside your home. You will notice and be able to intervene and correct every possible mistake, taking them outside every time they need to relieve themselves. Used correctly, the opportunity for your puppy to make mistakes is completely removed so every single time they need to visit their bathroom spot is a training opportunity you will take advantage of and no mistake goes uncorrected. Best suited to: People who spend all their time at home with their puppy and would also enjoy literally being tied to their pup all day. Further Info: for a detailed discussion of this technique, the benefits, downside, and many more tips, please see my article: Umbilical Cord House Training: What is It? How Does It Work? A Mix Of 3 Methods I use and recommend a mixture of crate training, constant supervision and paper training. I use constant supervision extensively because when a puppy is outside of the crate you have to watch them diligently to avoid puppy mistakes. Admittedly this is somewhat going against my advice because I always recommend to avoid paper training if possible. It encourages or allows your puppy to toilet inside the home, before then training them not to do so. This is confusing to your puppy and harmful to our house training efforts. But even though I recommend against it, using paper training ever so occasionally as a fall back plan works well for me. Most dogs love being outside and will use any excuse to get out there and stay there. You do this by using a cue word and walking them on leash to their potty spot, not allowing them to do anything else and if they do not potty, taking them back inside and trying again in a few minutes. Because a full bladder or bowel is uncomfortable, dogs are happy to relieve themselves, but some may try to hold it if they think they can get to stay outside and sniff around a while. If people use different words, your dog will get confused. This will slowly teach them the command. And this is fine for the first couple of weeks while they have no bladder control and will perform their business very quickly. And some dogs even learn to actively hold their bladder just so they can stay outside to explore for longer. Before you can do this you need to first get your puppy used to wearing a collar and leash. Have You Got Everything Prepared? A Check-list Before You Start Like everything in life, house training runs smoother if you have everything ready before you start, hopefully before you even bring your puppy home. Have you: Decided on and marked out a suitable bathroom spot? Chosen and purchased a suitable high-quality nutritious food? Figured out the times of day you will feed your puppy? Got a collar and leash? Put in place a leash training plan? Bought a suitable crate and set it up in a suitable place? Bought bedding for the crate? Bought chew toys to occupy your puppy in the crate? Decided on the commands you will use if any? Purchased either baby gates, a pet barrier or an exercise pen for longer term confinement? Sourced stacks of newspapers or puppy pads to use in the long-term confinement area? Bought some small but highly tasty training treats to use as a reward? Bought specialized pet stain removing and odor neutralizing cleaning products? Bought a UV light to find hidden spots of urine that must be removed to prevent repeat accidents? Sat and discussed with every member of your household your finalized plans so everybody has the same info? Successful House Training Is All About Schedules And Routine Dogs thrive when living to schedules and routine, doing best when they have set times for eating, going to toilet, exercise, training and play. But because the passage of food through their digestive system stays roughly the same, if you feed your puppy at the same times every day they will need to defecate at roughly the same times every day. This results in fewer mistakes, more opportunities to praise your puppy for going in the right place and so speeds up their learning. Depending on their age a puppy will need to poop 3 to 6 times a day, and wee many more times than that. Can these times be predicted? Mostly they can. When a puppy needs to potty depends on when they last ate, drank and their recent activities. Mostly they need to go: First thing in the morning The instant they wake up from a nap at any time of the day Just before going to bed Within a few minutes of eating or drinking Immediately after a play session Immediately after any excitement But a puppy also needs to go many times per day regardless of recent activities, so you should also take your puppy to their bathroom spot on a consistent schedule such as the following: At 8 weeks old — every 30 mins. At 10 weeks old — every 45 mins. At 12 weeks old — every 1 to 1. At 16 weeks old — every 2 hours. At 20 weeks old — every 3 hours. Some will need to wee within 2 minutes of drinking, others after 20 minutes. Some will need a bathroom break within 2 minutes of waking, others 15 minutes later. You have to determine your puppies own natural tendencies and create a schedule to suit. To achieve this, you need to follow this 5 step process: Feed them to a strict schedule. Decide on exercise, play and training times. Develop a schedule including feeding, exercise, play, training and all scheduled potty times. Use the information gathered in your diary to learn from any mistakes and adjust your schedule for the following week. The more you can stick to schedules and routines, the smoother and faster the process will be. But you can stray from the path when necessary and still find success, it will just take a little longer. You should feed your puppy 3 times a day when 12 to 26 weeks old. From 26 weeks old and onwards, feed your puppy just two times a day For 2 meals a day you need to space them out 8 to 12 hours apart. What works for me is shortly after I get up at and when we have our evening meal between PM and PM. Availability Of Water: You should make sure fresh water is always available but because drinking too much or too little can be a sign of health problems, you do need to monitor their water intake. Physical activity often leads to a puppy needing to potty very soon after. So to encourage predictable potty times for your puppy, you want to schedule their exercise and play. Deciding when to exercise, train and play with your puppy is entirely up to you. You should fit it around your lifestyle and commitments, but try to make it the same times each day if you can. Enter all the following details into a single column in an excel spreadsheet, or write them down as a day schedule with a pen and paper: When you wake and add an instant bathroom break before you do ANYTHING for yourself! Enter the times you will play with, train and exercise your puppy. Enter a scheduled visit to the bathroom spot after each of the activities listed in points 1 to 3. Add scheduled bathroom visits after any length of time longer than your puppy should be expected to hold it according to their age. Write in scheduled sleeps for your puppy, place them in the crate or confinement area. After writing down this schedule, tick off each task as you go through the day with your puppy. This way you will always know what needs to be done and when, and there will be no confusion about whether someone else in the house fed, exercised or took the puppy to the loo. I discuss this further in step 5 below. You should be able to pick up on any patterns and adjust your own behavior to avoid mistakes in future. Was puppy left alone and peed in the living room while you made breakfast? Puppy should never be left alone unsupervised, learn from this mistake. Or maybe puppy peed in the crate after an hour? Learn from this mistake. Well done for watching them closely enough. So increase the frequency. Therefore you should stretch out the time between visits by 10 to 15 minutes for the following day. This is how you find out. And Now House Training is So Much Easier By writing out the schedule as in step 3, you should never forget to feed, train or take your puppy to potty. And by using the schedule as a diary as in step 5, you get feedback on how you and your puppy are performing, and are armed with the necessary info to make changes to your schedule over time. You, your puppy and their needs all stay in sync and house training becomes that much easier. Just make a spreadsheet in excel and print it out, or simply buy some lined paper. Keep it somewhere you can always see and know where it is, alongside a pen or pencil and write entries in it as you watch your puppy throughout the day. After this, continuing with a diary every day is the best advice, although keeping one for 3 consecutive days each week will be sufficient for you to pick up on any changes as they mature. Once your puppy is 5 to 6 months old, they will have sufficient bladder control and experience to make a schedule and diary unnecessary. Just make sure they get access to the outside at least once every 3 hours and all will be fine. Extending The Time Between Toilet Breaks I discussed earlier how a puppy will need regular visits to their bathroom spot, something like every 30 minutes at 8 weeks old, every 45 minutes at 10 weeks old and so on. But every puppy is different and their progress in having longer time between needed toilet breaks will vary too. You do this because as a puppy grows, the size of their bowel and bladder increases, so they will be able to hold more for longer and you want to take advantage of this. This is also teaching them necessary bladder and bowel control. Use your cue word before you take them: By using your chosen cue word every time before you take them to potty, your puppy will learn what the trip is about and what they must do. This eventually leads to faster results as they know what is expected of them. Lead your puppy to the bathroom spot on leash: This gives you the ability to keep your puppy at the bathroom spot and prevent them wandering off, getting distracted and forgetting what they are there for. Make sure you stay with them at their bathroom spot: If you have them on leash, then of course you will be. When they start to go, say your chosen cue word in a soft warm voice. Mix up the reward between play, time off leash and a food reward to keep them guessing, but keep the food rewards to a minimum as what goes in must come out and random feeding promotes random elimination times! Many people pop out, stand for 1 minute and then come back in. Some people recommend to stay out there for 10, 15, 20 minutes, whatever it takes until they go, then praise profusely when they do. I recommend you give them 3 to 5 minutes, saying your cue word every 30 seconds or so but otherwise standing silently still just holding their leash so they cannot wander off. Take them back to their bathroom spot in 10 minutes or so. If using a crate for house training: Pop them back in the crate and leave them for 10 minutes. Then take them back to their bathroom spot. Take them to their bathroom spot after 10 minutes. If not, take them away from their bathroom spot and watch them for 10 minutes before returning them to their bathroom spot. And if crate training, do not leave them in the crate too long else they may be forced to soil in there. Prevent this at all costs. Rinse and repeat the visits to and fro like this until they do potty, then follow the next sections advice. What You Should Do Between Scheduled Bathroom Breaks Between scheduled bathroom visits you should do two things: Allow some supervised free time in your home, and use your chosen house training method. By free time I mean time outside of their crate, or off leash, or out of their confinement area. Time free to roam, explore and live life. When 10 weeks old they may need to toilet every 30 minutes, so they only get 5 to 10 minutes free time. When 12 weeks old, they may need to toilet every hour so they can get 35 to 40 minutes free time. You allow this free time because you are of course working toward a time when they will always be free and trusted unsupervised. To get there they need the experience, to get used to being free in your home and begin seeing it as a place they need to keep clean. They also need social interaction and life experiences. But what are the signs a puppy is about to potty? Heading toward, barking at or scratching the door to the outside. The minute you see any of these signs you should take your puppy to their bathroom spot immediately. There may well be some false alarms, but better safe than sorry. Carefully watch them and you should soon notice what body language means a wee or a poop is imminent. There will be recognizable signs. We do this because the time is fast approaching when mistakes are most likely to be made. If using constant supervision: Carry on as you are. Then at their scheduled potty time, attach a leash and lead them to their bathroom spot. If using a crate for house training: Encourage your puppy into their crate and close the door, leaving them there until their scheduled potty time and then release them, instantly attaching a leash and leading them to their bathroom spot. If using umbilical cord training: Attach a leash and tether your puppy to you, ready to react if they make moves to eliminate. Take them to their bathroom spot at the scheduled time. If paper training: Take your puppy to their confinement area where their papered bathroom spot is and supervise them, ready to intervene if they make moves to potty away from the paper. Not good when you need to be there to encourage them for doing it in the right place. If they do, you can pick them up and carry them, or take them by the collar and gently lead them to their bathroom spot, then encourage them to finish where they should. But to me this seems foolish. Instead of a little pile or puddle, you then have a long line of wee or poop from where you caught them all the way to the bathroom spot that you then have to deep clean instead. Then think how they were able to make such a mistake and tweak your plans so it cannot happen again. But any corrections or punishment now will be futile. House Training For Full Time Workers This advice applies not just to full-time workers , but also if you must occasionally leave your puppy home alone for a few hours. Most importantly, follow all the advice in this guide so far for the times that you are home. Supervise them, correct any mistakes, set feeding and elimination schedules and everything else I have advised. First of all, if like me you use a crate, you simply cannot leave your puppy in the crate for many hours. This is very unfair on your puppy and it will destroy the crates power as a house training tool if they lose the instinct to keep it clean. Secondly, please do your best to enlist the help of a family member, friend, neighbor or hire a dog walker to periodically pop in to visit your puppy, take them to their bathroom spot, give them some social interaction and so on. But I also freely admit to using paper training myself occasionally, for the unavoidable times I have to leave my puppy home alone for a few hours. If you have to leave your puppy home alone for any reason, usually because you work, then paper training in your absence is the only thing you can do. You then have two options available to you: Buy and use an exercise pen, or confine your puppy to a single, puppy-proofed room. As they get used to pottying on paper, reduce the area covered one sheet at a time until just a small area remains covered. Once you know your puppy can hold their bladder for longer than they have to be left alone, remove the paper altogether. By 16 to 20 weeks, they should be able to last the 3 or 4 hours max they will be left alone and somebody comes to exercise them and allow a bathroom break. Between 8 and 12 weeks when weeing seems spontaneous , my puppy spends a fair bit of time in there and I paper train them to use puppy pads. Our kitchen and dining room was separated by an arch where a door used to be, with tiled flooring, making it ideal. I used a baby gate across the arch between the kitchen and dining room, and initially covered the dining area with paper, over time reducing it to just two sheets with the puppy pad holder on top. The dining area is completely empty, with no furniture, nothing in there. Skirting boards, the corners of furniture items, anything within reach is a potential target for teeth and claws. My girlfriend works from home, we crate trained and we had no problem finding house sitters in an evening if we needed one, so we all but had things covered. But this is something you need to be mindful of. Whatever the reason, there just WILL be times you cannot supervise your puppy. The essence of house training is to prevent mistakes and praise your puppy heavily when they potty in the right place. If you cannot watch your puppy, the chances of them making a mistake go through the roof. So even if you choose to use a constant supervision method exclusively, you will still need to confine your puppy sometimes to a paper covered area just in case. I mean literally none at all. One minute they are trotting along, the next they are leaking. No warning signs for you, not even any warning signs for them. I recommend setting up an exercise pen with the entire area papered, or do as I do and confine them to a room with the entire area papered. Use this time to paper train them, to get them used to weeing on paper and gradually reduce the area because you will use this method if you ever have to leave them home alone during the next 4 or 5 months. They will sniff, circle and so on as I mentioned before. At this point you can now move on to using your chosen house training method. Start encouraging them to potty in the right place from the minute you get them home. So the good news is, even at 8 weeks they will be able to last 4 or so hours and you will only need to wake once during the night. Also, make sure to take them to their bathroom spot right before you go to bed so they can empty themselves. Then set an alarm for 4 hours after their bed time when you must get up and take them to their bathroom spot. No excuses, you simply must do this. If you find your puppy has soiled in this time, you should set the alarm for half an hour earlier the next night 3. After a few days of not having a night-time accident, set your alarm for 15 minutes later and increase the time by 15 minutes for each successful night they do not have an accident. If you find they make a mistake one night before you wake, set the alarm back half an hour, make sure they stay dry a few days and then increase 15 minutes nightly again. And by using this schedule, you strike a good balance between a couple of inevitable accidents while stretching out the time at a good pace to lasting a full night. If they soil their crate more than once in any given week, you may have to progress slower add 15 minutes every 2 or 3 days , or perhaps sleep them in a papered exercise pen or their confinement room. Maintaining their instinct to keep the crate clean is of utmost importance. What To Do At The Bathroom Spot At Night When you take them out at night, say your chosen cue word, take them straight to their bathroom spot, praise them gently when they finish their business but do not reward them with anything else. The last thing you want is to teach your puppy that during the night is a time for play or food treats! This will come back to haunt you in a big way and result in noisy sleepless nights. You want your puppy to learn that night-time is for sleeping and for nothing else. Do nothing else. Some will be able to last the whole night without a potty break at 10 weeks rarely , and some may not be able to at 15 weeks also rarely. But certainly by 16 weeks old your puppy will be able to last a 7 hour night without needing to potty if you do not feed them for 3 hours or provide water for 2 hours before bed time and allow them to empty themselves right before you lay down for the night. No Progress? If you are feeding, exercising, training and playing with your puppy to a schedule, and when you look at your diary there seems to be no pattern to the times they need to potty, you should seek the advice of your vet. Common ailments such as gastroenteritis, urinary tract infection and health issues affecting internal organs and the genitalia can lead to a dog needing to potty much more frequently, often leading to eliminating in the house. Again, seek the advice of your family vet. You cannot successfully house train a puppy who is ill because their bodily functions will be too unpredictable. But 6 to 7 months is the ball park figure to aim for. A single mistake in the home can cause a major setback. A puppy may not make a mistake for 2 weeks, then you give them too much freedom, they make a mistake and all of a sudden they are regularly trying to potty in the home again. Also, some puppies just seem to forget everything for a few days now and then while growing up, even after being perfect for a couple of weeks. Just stick to your plan and they WILL eventually get it. Conclusion With house training, the fewer mistakes you allow your puppy to make and the more they are rewarded for doing the right thing, the quicker they will learn and the faster you will find success. Because of this, the more effort you put in and the more time you spend with your puppy at the beginning — supervising to correct mistakes and taking them to their bathroom spot many times each day — the better. But there are many other things you can do to help yourself and your puppy to find success. This guide has provided you with all the theory, strategies, tips and tricks you will ever need to successfully house train your puppy as quickly and efficiently as possible, with the fewest mistakes along the way. Please see the entire series linked to below:. Labrador house training routines. We want them to learn to wait until they are outdoors before emptying their bladder or bowels. It is about maturity too. We need to understand that tiny puppies have immature bodies and are not physically capable of waiting very long. On your side There are two factors on your side in the potty training process. When it comes to bladder control, fortunately your puppy improves with every day that passes, so this factor does not work against you forever. The same applies to the fact that the puppy has been removed from his nest, he will soon learn to accept his new nest. The principles of puppy potty training The puppy is learning the principle of extending the nest area, which he keeps clean instinctively, to include your entire home. Punishment is counter-productive in this process as it teaches the puppy to avoid emptying himself in your presence. Rewards are helpful, but given the right routine, a puppy will naturally learn to be clean without them. The secret to successful house training lies in selecting targets that the puppy can achieve. If your puppy sometimes needs to wee every 15 minutes whilst he is awake and active, you will have to take him outside every 15 minutes. Restricted access Start small applies here too. Allow your puppy access only to a small part of your home. Increase the area he has access to, only when he is capable of keeping the current area clean. Just because he can. And because the sensation of a filling bladder is a new one. Your job is to teach him to wait a little longer. You do this by confining him for a short time, every time his bladder fills. You can confine him in his nest within a crate , or in your arms. He will be reluctant to wee in either location. If he wets himself, you have waited too long! It takes two You need to go outside with your puppy, and stay out there with him, each time he needs to wee. A tiny puppy is unlikely to empty himself on his own. This especially applies in cold or wet weather. Routines Matter When House Training a Labrador Retriever Based around these practical requirements you can create your own house training routine. For a puppy that needs to wee every half an hour, it will go something like this Take puppy outside to the toilet area and wait with him until he empties himself Bring him indoors and allow him free access to your kitchen for fifteen to twenty minutes Crate or cuddle the puppy until it is thirty minute since his last wee Take the puppy back out to the toilet area If at any time the puppy does not empty himself then confine him for another ten minutes and try again. As soon as he is regularly not needing to wee after thirty minutes you can extend the duration of free access to your kitchen. Provided you stick to these principles and strategies, the house training process, though quite intense for a short while, will pass smoothly. Print Potty train your puppy quickly Housebreaking is one of the least desirable tasks when adding a new puppy to your family. It is never fun but consider it a necessary task. You will never regret having a dog that knows your home is not a bathroom. When to start housebreaking Housebreaking should begin the day you bring your puppy home from the breeder. It is important to establish quickly that there is a right and wrong place for your puppy to go potty. How long does it take to house train a lab puppy? I wish I could give a definitive answer for this, but the truth is that every puppy is different. Most puppies can be completely house broke by the time they are months. But assume there will be a lot of ups and downs through the process. Some puppies learn very quickly and rarely have an accident. Others take more time to make the connection. Here are some things you can do to help the process go smoothly. Have the right attitude! Keep your attitude in check to help this process go quickly and smoothly. Have patience! As already stated, potty training can take some time. It may happen, but it is unlikely. Instead, plan for a long haul and then you will be more patient and understanding when mishaps happen. The products I recommend I believe are a good value or good investment for anyone working to train or maintain training on their retriever. When possible, I include links to the product. Some of these links may be Amazon or other affiliate links in which I am paid a small commission at no cost to you. All opinions and recommendations are my own. Step 1: Establish a place for your puppy to go potty To get started housebreaking your puppy, you must first establish a place where it is okay for your puppy to do his business. Find a place outside that is not too far from your home, but an area where you are not worried about killing the grass or trampling plants that are important to you. Consider this carefully, because once your puppy starts going potty in this area it will be exceedingly difficult to move or change the area. Once the scent is there, it is natural for dogs to continue going potty in the same area over and over. Do I have to potty train outside? In some areas of the country, winters can be very cold. Some new puppy owners wonder if it is too cold for their Labrador puppy to go outside to potty train during these times. The answer is no. Most Labs can easily be outside for a few minutes even during the coldest nights to go potty. A pee pad is a disposable, leak proof pad that is scented to attract your dog and encourage going potty on them. We highly discourage using pee pads because in the long run it is confusing to your dog. If you spend time teaching your puppy to NOT go potty inside your home and then flip-flop and begin letting them go inside your home on a pee pad, your dog will be confused. Besides, eventually you must retrain them to going outside, so the best policy is to never start letting inside be an option. Step 2: Establish a routine and schedule for your puppy Establishing a routine is the single most important step for housebreaking. The more consistent you are, the faster your puppy will learn to go outside for potty. This time will increase rapidly over the next few weeks, but that first week is going to take a lot of time and energy on your part to consistently let your puppy out on a schedule. To make being consistent easier, consider this: Set a timer When housebreaking puppies, we find that setting a timer is helpful. An hour flies by and you hardly realize it. For the first few days at least, set a timer and let your puppy out hourly, especially if your puppy is not in a crate. We will discuss that more in a bit. Timing is everything There are other times when you need to let your puppy outside. Immediately after eating or drinking your puppy should go outside. Eating and drinking will trigger a need to go potty, so to avoid accidents, take your puppy out every time they eat or drink. And if they drink a lot of water, you may have to take them out several times before they are back on schedule. Anything you can do to make going potty a routine will help your dog learn and associate that going outside is where I need to go to go potty. Use a command I know this sounds crazy but using a command can help your dog form an association between the command and going potty. At first this is meaningless to the puppy. And you cannot discipline your puppy for a potty accident in the house that you never saw happen. The solution for this is never let your puppy go unsupervised. This can be exhausting, that is why we suggest using a crate to help. The stern words must be said during the accident or immediately after to have any effect. Using a crate to house train your puppy First, while your puppy may not love his crate right away, if properly introduced and used consistently, Labs usually come to love their crates. As den animals, dogs will view their crate as a den where they can go to sleep or get away from the business of the home. Learn more about crate training your Labrador puppy here. When using a crate to housetrain your puppy, you first want to make sure that you have a very small crate. One that is just a little bigger than your puppy. This is particularly important because you do not want your puppy to be able to move around much in the crate. If they can move around, they can and often will go potty in the crate. So, start with a very small crate and get bigger crates as the puppy grows. Whatever you choose to use to block off the larger area, make sure that it is not something your puppy can chew on or ingest. You will still need to find a way to gradually increase the area that the puppy has access to, so I just find the multiple crate solution easier. You should still set a timer and take your puppy out on a regular basis, and you will want to schedule some time each day for the puppy to run around the house and play while supervised. Step 4: Using praise to speed the house breaking process You can help your puppy more quickly understand that going potty outside is the right thing to do by giving your puppy well-timed praise. But the praise must be well-timed. You should give the praise while your puppy is going potty outside or immediately after. Timing is very important! Lots of people get upset when the dog goes inside but fail to praise when the dog does the right thing. Not all dogs are the same. Some puppies will whine just before they go potty in the house, or whine at the door when they need to go. Some will hide somewhere you cannot see them and do their business there. Still others may scratch at the door. How long can a puppy hold it overnight? With young puppies, weeks old, you will need to get up several times a night to let them out. It can be helpful to limit the amount of water your puppy has access to close to bedtime. We usually aim for every 3 hours and then steadily increase the time as they get older. But each puppy is different. Final thoughts on how to house train your Labrador puppy Remember that housebreaking is a process. It rarely follows a straight line and more often there will periods of success and occasional mishaps. Stick with it and before long your puppy will understand that going potty in the house is not okay. Until next time, happy retrieving. How to housebreak your Labrador puppy. Supervise Your Puppy Your second job is to supervise or contain your puppy when his bladder is filling up. You can do this by crating him for a few minutes, or by cuddling him in your arms. I recommend the cuddle option for the first few days, that way you can introduce the crate gradually once he has settled into his new home. Either spend your first day together in the yard getting a feel for how frequently they pee. As you can see, there is some guesswork involved in house training a puppy, but not too much. The secrets of successful outdoor toilet trips Not wanting to pee outside is a common toilet training puppy problem and one we look at in more detail in this article. Keeping your puppy company is the key. You need to go outside with your puppy and wait there with him until he has done a wee. This may take longer than you would like, and you probably have better things to do than stand in your yard while your puppy chases butterflies or plays with your shoe laces. But stay outside you must, until he has done that wee. Coming Indoors Early If you must come indoors before your puppy has relieved himself, you need to supervise him very closely. Hold him in your arms — or put him in a small crate for a few minutes — before going back out to try again. It is a new puppy problem, and it will pass. And if you teach your puppy to pee on command, it will pass even quicker! Rewarding success If you put plenty of effort in, and take your puppy out a great deal in those first few days, he will quickly learn that the place you have allocated to him for potty purposes is the place to pee. You can praise him and give him a little treat for doing so. Have your treat on hand keep them next to your poop bags so you remember to grab both on the way out , and deliver it right after your puppy has completed their business. Rewarding his successes and ignoring his accidents is the quickest way of successfully communicating what you want, and quickly potty training your puppy. Stage 2 — Learning self control During stage 2 your puppy begins to develop some self control. This means he can wait a few minutes before emptying himself when his bladder starts to feel full. Keep an eye on your puppy for the tell tale signs that he needs to use the toilet: whimpering, whining or barking sniffing about, especially sniffing in circles! Using Your Crate If your puppy is now used to his crate, you can start using it stretch out the gaps between toilet trips. Accidents during stage 2 At some point during stage 2, many puppies will be able to last an hour or so between wees. This is when puppy parents often relax their vigilance, and their puppies start having accidents in the house again. Simply go back to shorter gaps between trips to the yard for a few days. Then start to space out those trips again, but more gradually this time. Stage 3 — Extending the clean zone This is where all your hard work starts to really pay off. Once your puppy is confidently and consistently toileting outdoors, and you can further stretch out the gaps between toilet breaks, and start to introduce your puppy to the rest of your home. Take it slowly, and if accidents occur, to go back to shorter gaps between trips outdoors for a few days. Bear in mind that your puppy may be used to peeing in the yard and not in the kitchen by now, but they might not automatically understand which rule applies to the lounge. Method 2: How to potty train a puppy indoors This section has a lot in common with how to potty train a puppy when you work. So follow method 2 if you need to know how to potty train a puppy in an apartment as well. And that means using pads. How to potty train a puppy on pads The simplest way to do this is to restrict the puppy to a smallish room with washable floors. Cover the floor with puppy pads to begin with, with their bed in one corner. How do you train a puppy to pee on a pad? With this arrangement in place, as long as your puppy leaves his bed to pee which his mom will have encouraged him to do , he will pee onto the pads. So over the next few days, reduce the area of the floor that is covered with puppy pads by half. You should find he begins to make an effort to pee and poop on the part of the floor that is covered — but it needs to be a sizeable part to get this good habit established. How to potty train a puppy fast using pads — reducing the toilet area By the end of the first week, you can begin to reduce the part of the floor that is covered with puppy pads right down to a small area, preferably near the back door. It is usually best to do this when you have some time booked off work — or during a long weekend when the weather is fine. But if you choose to crate train your puppy LINK alongside potty training him, the crate can be a useful aid for potty training too. Once your puppy thinks of the crate as their bed, they will be reluctant to soil in it. You Still Need To Watch Your Puppy Always watch puppies closely in their crate during potty training, and whisk them out to the right spot at the first sign they might need to relieve themselves. You can find out a lot more about crate training and the role it plays in rapid house training on this page. As well opportunities to use the toilet, Labrador puppies need company and socialisation while they are small. So, if you are going to go back to work you need to arrange someone to look after him, or to come in at intervals throughout the day to play with him and take him out. Here are some articles which will be of interest if you are thinking of getting a puppy and work full time:.

If you click and purchase, we may receive a small commission at no extra cost to you. This is a great way to minimize the risk of puppies inheriting any serious and life altering genetic conditions. Of course, nature works in mysterious ways and not always can genetic defects be avoided. However, health screening is the best and most sure-fire way of reducing the risks. Health guarantees cover any major genetic conditions that the parent pups have been tested for and they usually cover the first two years from adoption. Many Labradoodle breeders have listed their customer testimonials on their website, but you should also check for reviews on Google, Facebook, here at Doodle Doods , Yelp, or Reddit. Their dogs live with them inside the home to ensure that they get all the attention and love they deserve. In addition to that, their puppies are born and raised in their home, where they receive constant supervision and care. What Makes This Breeder Unique? All of their breeding dogs have gone through health and genetic testing to ensure the health of the puppies. Feel free to contact Angel Breeders for more information. They specialize in breeding healthy medium-sized Labradoodle puppies with unconventional coat colors like red or apricot brown. All the puppies have their origins in pedigree dog lines and are tested to be in good health. Both the parents are thoroughly tested as well before going ahead with the breeding process. This ensures that all the puppies are born healthy and are covered with a 3-year health guarantee. Cream Puff Details Contact: don creampufflabradoodles. She hoped to combine the amiability of the Retriever, along with the warm temperament of the Poodle. As a result, today, we have this energetic doodle who can be a wonderful family dog. Initially, they were bred with the intention of training them as guide dogs or therapy dogs. But around the late s, their joyful and gentle nature made them very popular as home pets. Types Of Labradoodle Since the Labradoodle is not an independent breed, there can be certain inconsistencies in temperament or appearance. So, their sizes can vary depending on the size of the parent Poodle. On the other hand, the parent Labrador Retriever determines the type of coat for the Labradoodle pup. The fur type can be unpredictable due to this and can vary from soft to woolly or wiry. In addition, they can also belong to four categories of breeding. People generally prefer the generation having more hereditary Poodle qualities. The dominant Poodle trait typically makes them hypoallergenic or non-shedding. Therefore, it would be beneficial to acquaint yourselves with the different types of breeding categories before adopting Labradoodle puppies in New Jersey NJ. F1 Labradoodles The F1 breed is the healthiest as it is a first-generation cross between purebred Poodles and Labrador Retrievers. These puppies possess equally dominant traits of both their parent breeds. When purebred Poodles mate with a grown Labradoodle, F1B breeds of puppies are born. They, too, have equally dominant traits of both the Poodle and the Labrador Retriever. F3 Labradoodles F3 Labradoodle puppies are the least healthy breed, as it is a cross between two F2 Labradoodles. Such a multigenerational cross is typically a backcross between multiple generations of Poodle. Labradoodles are usually dogs with high energy. Regardless of their sizes, they are not well-suited to living in small-sized apartments. They can be high-spirited jumpers and are in need of constant mental and physical stimulation to thrive. Not that you need additional solid reasons to get yourselves a furry companion. But when it comes to Labradoodle puppies, there are reasons to convince you to adopt one. We have taken all these into consideration in our curated list of the five best Labradoodle breeders in New Jersey NJ. Comfort Companions Labradoodles are known to be highly affectionate and have an upbeat personality. They were initially bred to be therapy or guide dogs, so they are extra sensitive too. Picking up on human emotions or body language is natural to them. They are the type of dogs that will try to comfort and cuddle you if they detect you are feeling sad. You can also expect them to greet you at your door after a tedious day and make you feel better with just their energy. Having a Labradoodle would mean that you will always be moving and on your toes. So, you will hardly have to feel lonely. Trainability Labradoodles are known to be pretty easy to train. They derive the intelligence traits from two very smart dog breeds, the Poodle and the Labrador Retriever. The combined genetics, therefore, makes the Labradoodle a super-dog in terms of intelligence. On the other hand, their nature makes them eager to please anyone. As a result, they will pick up all the tricks that you teach them very swiftly! Final Words It is not without reason that Labradoodle pups are such a sought-after breed for family pets. Their affectionate nature, gentle temperament, and adorable appearance will be sure to turn heads during walks at the dog park. Labradoodles can be the most amazing pets. A creditable breeder will ensure that your dog will be healthy and, in turn, live a long life. These links are affiliate links, so if you do end up using the links, I will earn a commission. Dog Food: Every dog needs to eat correctly, and finding the best food for your dog can be challenging, as the market is absolutely flooded with products. English Manor Labradoodles on Facebook! They are Litter mates with matching everything, most of our puppies have the same temperaments because they were specifically bred to have a specific temperament that makes the Australian Labradoodle what it is today! ONE of the only Breeds ever in history to be specifically developed for use as a Therapy dog. Calm Happy easy to train dogs, that get along with other dogs pets and children. Or great for first time dog owners that need a nice easy going option to introduce them to the world of dogs. All our Authentic Australian Labradoodles used in our breeding program continue the traditional values and qualities that were stamped in this breed since the very beginning. Diva would just light up a room, she was just a love bug her disposition and her clownish ways were always cheering us up on our worst days. SO SO incredibly intuitive of our moods she always new when to cuddle with us. We continue on now with her great Granddaughters and we see SO much her personality within them. They are very suitable for first time dog owners, children , and other pets they do not have a mean bone in there BODY. Beautiful litter of 7. This litter could go home around end of August beginning of September. Sammy is out of one of our favorite Females Tippie. Sammy stole our hearts sooo much that she is our forever dog. She has such a docile sweet demeanor and she comes up to you and pets you softly with her paw. She is everything you strive for in an emotional support dog. A great granddaughter of our Foundation Female Diva and it shines through. Her puppies will be well suited for work with children, and PTSD support she has this incredible nature to calm a person, much like her mom Tippie. We care for our pups around the clock. It's very important to us that our pups are place into a safe enviroment and a very loving home where they will contine to be cared for and nurtured. Here at English Manor we invite you to come and learn about our dogs and the Authentic Australain Labradoodles and about all the love and joy they have brought to our family , to others and hopefully to yours. We have enjoyed all the comical charisma thats she has brought to our lives and all the wonderful fun loving pups and grand pups that have come, We hope that you to will share the excitement and enjoyment as you journey down this road with us! Please provide as much information as you can when filling out the application form as I use this info to create the contract as well submit it to the microchip companies after the purchase of your pup. We are only using the information to contact you. If you would like to be informed about the breed or would like to schedule an appointment to come see the dogs please call us. We love to hear from our prospective buyers. Your personality and circumstances play a big role in your labradoodles happiness. Please feel free to call us for info about Australian labradoodle temperament, physical needs and available litters. Labradoodles for sale, labradoodles in ny, Arabian horses for sale, National Show horse for sale, Labradoodle breeding dogs and Labradoodle breeding stock Available. Australian Labradoodles only. Questions about Labradoodle puppies for sale in New Jersey? We have answers. Give me an overview of Labradoodle puppies for sale in New Jersey. Soft, Cuddly, Cute Australian Labradoodles are truly one of the cutest breeds, and our dogs are bred to be even more adorable than your average Doodle. Friendliest Dispositions Loved for their friendliness and patience, our Australian Labradoodles are always in the mood for whatever you feel like doing. From jogging buddies to nap-time cuddle buddies, life is always better with a Doodle by your side. Extremely Intelligent Labradoodles are super smart, which is no surprise considering they share genes with eager-to-please dogs like the Labrador Retriever and brilliant pooches like the Poodle. Training your Aussie Labradoodle is an absolute blast! The Uptown Family Our dogs are like family to us, and we want to give your family the greatest chance to succeed with your new Labradoodle. Perfect Family Pet Our Doodles get along great with just about everyone—from big families with kids and pets, to people who are looking for a companion on their solo adventures. Labradoodles are adaptable and bring joy to families of all sizes! But the best part is that you get to pick—just another benefit of working with Uptown. Premium Network of Labradoodle Breeders in New Jersey To meet the huge demand for our Doodles without sacrificing their health or happiness, we formed a premium network of breeders who share our passion and love of dogs. Highest New Jersey Labradoodle Breeder Standards Our breeders follow strict guidelines to preserve the wellbeing of our dogs. That means litter limits and breeding age restrictions for our mommy Doodles, and ensuring both parents and puppies enjoy outstanding living conditions. Hidden Springs Labradoodles creates life long memories and family members that elevate our lives. Labradoodles Originally bred to be hypoallergenic service dogs Labradoodles have become one of the most popular breeds around. Responsible Breeding Our Breeding dogs have their DNA tested and certified, Hips and elbows certified, and Eyes certified and cleared for congenital defects. Responsible Ownership Responsible pet owners treat their canine friends like family and realize it is a commitment for the life of your dog. Trainability We recommend training your puppy as much as possible. The best puppies know their boundaries and are taught what is expected with love and devotion. This is usually a Standard Poodle but smaller Poodles are sometimes used to breed a smaller dog. Generally Labradoodles are largish dogs. Temperment Temperament will vary but typically, if well socialized as puppies, the labradoodle will be a lively, good natured family pet. Hypoallergenic There is the potential for owners to less likely to be allergic to these dogs, but zero or low allergy is not guaranteed even within the same litter. Find Out More Grooming Coat type is varied. Although coat type varies, your labradoodle will need plenty of exercise and stimulation, with regular opportunities to walk off lead. Act fast because they will not last long.

Fortunately, you will not need many supplies to tape your German shepherd puppy's ears. In fact, you may already have some of the supplies at home. One of the supplies you will need is women's large foam rollers. The large size of rollers is usually pink, but do not rely on color to choose the correct size. Alternatively, you could use small pipe insulation tubing, which is available at home improvement stores. If you choose to use tubing, it should be about the same diameter as a large foam roller. The type of tape to use is very important! The best type of tape to use is white surgical tape two-inch wide 3M Micropore tape , which is available at your local pharmacy. Do not use duct tape or electrical tape. These types of tape are too adhesive and could damage your puppy's ears. You will also need glue Skin Bond adhesive is recommended and one or two unsharpened 2 pencils. A popsicle stick will be needed to serve as a 'bridge' between your puppy's ears after you have taped them. Remove the plastic rod from the middle of the roller. Next, insert the unsharpened pencil about 1 inch into the middle opening of the roller—this will help you stabilize the roller when you position it inside the ear. You will then apply the glue about three-fourths of the way around the circumference of the roller. If you apply too much, the glue could run into your puppy's ear canal and potentially cause irritation. The glue could also drip onto your hands, which would make it difficult for you to easily maneuver your hands. If you prefer to use the tape, you will not need to put the pencil in the roller. Proper positioning of the foam roller is important so that you do not block your puppy's ear canal and impair his ability to hear. Place the roller inside the ear near the bottom half of the ear flap. Make sure there is two fingers' worth of space between the bottom of the roller and your puppy's head. Holding the pencil end of the roller, wrap the ear around the roller. While continuing to hold the pencil end, start taping at the top of the ear in a circular motion and work your way down. Use firm pressure when taping the ear, but be careful not to tape the ear too tightly—not only would this be uncomfortable for your puppy, but it may also cut off circulation to the ear. Place the popsicle stick behind the top of both ears and secure it to each ear with additional tape or glue. The popsicle stick will act like a bridge between the ears to keep them upright and stabilized while they are taped. Your puppy will probably want to start messing with his ears as soon as you finish taping them up. You can distract him with food or a few minutes of playtime. Distracting him with activities that he enjoys will divert his attention from his ears, at least temporarily. Your puppy's ears may need up to two weeks to remain stabilized in the upright position. During this time, your puppy will probably manage to remove the popsicle stick and might even start unraveling the tape from his ears. This is most likely to happen in the first 24 hours after you have taped his ears. If you notice the tape unraveling, or that the popsicle stick has come off, make the fixes where needed. Cover up his ears with a plastic bag if it is raining outside when it's time for your puppy to go out. Consider taking the tape off after seven days to see if the ears will stand up on their own. If not, re-tape the ears. It is recommended to use an adhesive remover to remove the tape from your puppy's ears. Following the instructions on the adhesive remover bottle, gently and slowly remove the tape and foam roller from your puppy's ears. Do not forcefully rip off the tape or rip out the roller. Not only will this be painful for your puppy, but you may also end up damaging the inside of your puppy's ears. Do not be worried if your puppy's ears do not stand exactly upright when you remove the tape and foam roller. His ears may be a little weak after being taped, but will strengthen over time. Scissors How to begin: The video starts with Dr. Bill laying out all of is supplies and taping the straws to each individual piece of gauze. Next, he back-rolls the gauze so that the sticky tape is on the outside of the straw so that it will stick to the inside of the ear. He then tears off the tape strips that will be used to tape the straw to the ears. He makes these in two sizes, two the width of the tape plus two narrower strips. He also tears off a strip to brace the ears. He sticks all these to the treatment table so that they are handy during the procedure. How to tape the ears After all his supplies are ready, Dr. Bill then begins taping the ears. He inserts the soft end of the straw into the inside of the ear flap while holding the ear to the sticky tape on the straw. He then takes a piece of tape and starting on the back of the ear the side with hair tapes the ear to the straw so that the ear is standing in the erect position. Bill tape both ears. The video demonstrates how to wrap one thin piece of tape around the base of both ears using a crisscross method. This will help stabilize the ears if your dog shakes their head, etc. They should be braced so that they move in tandem when your dog moves or shakes their head. The tape should be light on the ears as opposed to heavy and not too uncomfortable for the dog. How long should the tape stay on? Leave the tape of the ears for two weeks. Your dog will wear the tape until their ears can stand up. If the ears are not standing on their own by 7 to 8 months, they most likely will never stand on their own so end the process and enjoy your beautiful pup just how they are. We hope you find this video helpful. Ears up or down, we love German shepherds! Please feel free to share with your friends. I get a lot of emails about taping German Shepherd puppy ears. The majority of these emails come from people who are jumping the gun and worrying too much. By that, I mean their pups are 3 or 4 months old and they are starting to panic because their puppy's ears are not standing. I tell these people that they need patience, they need to wait until their pup has finished teething. I caution these people not to jump the gun and tape the dog's ears too early or in the wrong way. I know people who have screwed their dog's ears up for life by doing this. I have had puppy customers who go ballistic on me and panic. So I issue a word of caution here. With that said, the other side of the spectrum of taping ears is something that many people do not take seriously until it's too late. When ears are taped at 7 and 8 months, there is very little chance of it working. This is an unfortunate fact of life. German Shepherd puppy ears can come up between 8 weeks and 6 months. If they are not up when the dog is through teething this varies from dog to dog but in general between 16 weeks and 20 weeks of age , I tell my puppy customers to get very interested in their ears. While it's not time to panic, it is time to sit up and take notice. The first thing to do is make sure that your puppy is in good health. This means no intestinal parasites. Take a stool sample to your vet to have it analyzed. It's also important to make sure the pup is getting good quality food. We feed and recommend a raw diet but if you do feed a commercial diet, I strongly recommend researching all the options available and feeding the highest-quality food you can afford. View our list of all-natural kibble alternatives. In fact, a lot of times, a pup will have both ears up and all of a sudden, they will come back down when the pup starts to teeth. Many owners panic when this happens. But not to worry, I have never seen a pup whose ears did not go back up when this happens. If a pup does not have his ears up by 5 months, I strongly recommend that you get involved with taping your dog's ears. Use the thin white surgical tape the kind that's paper-thin and tears easily. The 3M Micropore tape, 2" wide, works well. I like to use women's hair rollers. Take the plastic out of them and just use the foam. Wrap the ear around the foam and tape them into a tight roll. In a vertical position. Take a popsicle stick and attach it to the top part of both ears. In a horizontal position. The pup is going to tear the tape or stick off the ears several times. The key is to continue to re-tape the ears. Sooner or later, the pup will forget the tape and ignore it. About once a week, take the tape off and see if the ears will stand on their own. Continue to re-tape until the ears stand. If the ears are not up by 7 or 8 months, they are not going to come up. The ears should look like this once taped. The same dog with ears now up. I have seen ears that did not stand, which in my opinion would have stood had they been taped. So this process is not something to take lightly. I also need to say that many ears will be a little weak right after taping but with time, they will strengthen. So when an ear does not stand perfectly after taping don't panic. Just have patience and see what happens. You will really not have an idea exactly what you have until the pup is 12 months old. When ears do not stand, there are ear implants that can be surgically added. I have no experience with this and do not know anything about them. If you are unlucky enough to have a dog whose ears will not stand, I would point you toward a vet that has some experience in this area. I don't think it's something that normal small animal vets know how to do well. In my opinion, too young to tape. The material to use to tape German Shepherd Ears The pup with its ears taped I prefer taping German Shepherd Dogs ears after the dog has finished teething. This usually means the dog is older than 4 - 6 months. Maybe waiting another month would have been a better idea for this puppy.