english golden retriever puppies san diego

english golden retriever puppies san diego

When you bring a new puppy home, it's important to keep feeding it the same food that it has been eating at its previous home. The AKC advocates for the responsible ownership of dogs and promotes purebred dog events, such as the Westminster Dog Show. Go to source Talk to the person or organization that you are adopting your puppy from to see what food they are feeding it. They should willingly provide that info and they may even send you home with some if you can't find any to buy. If you can't find the right food in your local pet supply store, consider ordering it online. However, you would need to order it ahead of time so that you have it on hand when the puppy comes home. If you want to feed your puppy a different food from what it has been eating, you will need to switch its food over the course of several days. Feed that mix for several days. Finally, you can give the puppy all new food. If you are content to give your puppy the food it was originally eating, it's fine to do that. Every puppy will have different nutritional needs. Because of this, it's a good idea to discuss proper nutrition with your vet. They can suggest great foods to give your puppy and how much it should be eating. Go to source The right portion size depends on the size of your puppy and its metabolism. Ask your vet to teach you how to body score your puppy. This will allow you to do a quick visual check to see whether your puppy is losing or gaining weight. Tip: If your vet suggests a specific food but doesn't tell you how much to give your puppy, follow the instructions on the packaging. Doing 3 or 4 feedings per day allows your puppy to get enough nutrients without overwhelming its digestive system with a huge amount of food at once. This is especially important when your puppy is under 6 months old, as they have delicate systems. Go to source Don't just leave the food out all day. Take the food away after the puppy eats for about 10 or 15 minutes. Lab puppies should always have access to fresh water so that they can stay adequately hydrated. Put out a dish of water and dump it out, clean the dish, and refill it daily. Some puppies are really messy with their water dishes. To prevent a mess, try putting the water dish on a tray, so that spilled water won't go right onto the floor. Top Picks For Our Dogs Preparing Your Home For A Puppy You should treat the preparation of your home for the arrival of a new puppy in much the same way as you would for the arrival of a baby because the process is almost identical. You must be ready to provide every little thing your puppy needs in life, making sure they have water, are fed, comfortable, happy, catered for and safe. To achieve this there are 4 main things that you need to do: Go shopping for equipment and supplies Puppy proof your home and garden to make sure your puppy stays safe Set up an area for your puppy to sleep and spend time in when you cannot supervise them Decide on the rules and routines required to successfully raise a puppy Without such preparation, things will be difficult. A Nutritious Puppy Food The most important supply needed for a new puppy is a highly nutritious puppy food. Hopefully your puppy came from a responsible breeder who was feeding them a high quality, complete and nutritious food. If so, you should ask what they were feeding, stock up on and continue feeding this if possible. If not, then puppies are incredibly active, growing fast and developing bone, muscle and more every day. Because of this they need almost double the calories, more protein and have different nutritional needs to mature adult dogs. Furthermore, they have far smaller mouths than adult dogs so puppy food comes in smaller chunks more suited to their size. Click here to see our recommendations for the best puppy food for labs Bowls for Food And Water There is a bewildering array of dog bowl choices out there so choosing the best can be difficult. Looks and design aside, I recommend going for stainless steel bowls because they are long-lasting, cannot be chewed and are very easy to clean. I also recommend buying bowls with heavy rubber bottoms so they stay rooted to the spot and are harder to spill or flip over. Unless of course you buy bowls in a stand, then these problems are already solved. A Puppy Crate And Bedding A good crate is one of the most beneficial things you can provide for the good of yourself and your puppy. First of all, supply some bedding to place inside for your puppy to sleep on. My recommendation for this is VetBed. Many puppies can chew and ingest normal bedding which can result in medical emergencies and VetBed is the most durable bedding on the market. During these times you need to provide a larger, but still safe enclosure to confine your puppy. You might also like to buy a plastic sheet and some puppy pads or use lots of old newspaper for them to use as a potty in your absence. Puppy Chew Toys Puppies chew. A lot. And they seem to prefer chewing phones, footwear and TV remotes more than anything else. Just make sure whatever toys you do buy are suitable for a puppy as many will be too large for their little mouths to begin with. Interactive Puppy Toys So you can play games with your puppy, provide exercise and mental stimulation, you will want to buy a few toys that encourage the two of you to interact. Balls for throwing and chasing, soft toys and ropes for playing tug, other toys for fetch, there are many available. You will also need a collar to provide a place to attach an all important ID tag. ID Tag An ID tag is an essential means to be reunited with your puppy should the worst happen and you somehow lose them or they run away. Clicker A clicker is an extremely useful tool used during training as a reward marker that dramatically improves the timing of communication between you and your puppy when you want to reward a behavior. Although not essential, I do highly recommend you use one. Puppy Training Treats Tasty food treats are the go-to reward used during training so you will want to make sure you always have a good stock at hand. They need to feel happy with being bathed, happy having their coat and teeth brushed, their feet touched, nails clipped and having their eyes and ears inspected. To do so, you should fake going the process, getting them used to being handled, the sight and feel of the tools and so on. To achieve this, you will need to buy and get them used to the following items: Dog shampoo Combs and brushes suitable for a Labrador Scissors Cotton balls Toothbrush Use these tools right away and often, and give your puppy praise and tasty treats as you go so they form positive associations with grooming. Puppy Proof Your Home and Garden The process of puppy proofing your home is very much like baby proofing before the arrival of a child. Except a puppy is far more curious, active and destructive and can get themselves into far more trouble. A puppy is a new-born. Everything is a toy and they will run and pounce and jump and chew on anything in their environment. So before you bring your puppy home you simply must make it safe for them. For things you cannot move skirting boards, table legs etc. To keep them safe while still providing an area for them to play in and stretch their legs, you want to restrict their access to a single room, or otherwise create an enclosed space for them. To do so, either buy a pet barrier or baby gate that goes across a doorway to restrict them to an easy to clean and safe room, or buy an exercise pen puppy pen to create an enclosed space in another room. I also strongly recommend buying a crate for many reasons, but initially, mostly just to provide the perfect place for them to sleep. I shall discuss crate training a little later in this article. All of this must be decided BEFORE you get your puppy home because consistency is a key part of raising a puppy successfully. Everyone must enforce and live by the same rules for your puppy to thrive. Initially they have no idea how you want them to behave, or how and when they can expect the things they want and need in life. The more consistent everybody is with the puppy, the quicker they will learn all this stuff and the happier everyone will be. So decide and write down if necessary when your puppy will have all their needs met, make sure everybody knows who is responsible for each task and make sure everybody knows the rules. You might think the collection and journey home with your new puppy is no big deal, but there are many things can go wrong. Therefore, you should never take a puppy before 8 weeks old. During the first 8 weeks, a puppy learns a lot from their mother and litter-mates: Bite inhibition, canine body language, acceptable play and interaction with other dogs and how to accept discipline. Things you will find it very hard to teach them later yourself. The flip side of this is that the 7 to 14 week stage is the most impressionable for a puppy, where they bond strongest with people and must be socialized to all the sights, sounds and smells of the world so they grow up confident and comfortable with their surroundings. So anyway, for the journey home there a few things you need to consider: Safety in the car, the need for water and toilet breaks and the possibility your puppy will be sick. Having a loose puppy in the car presents a very real danger of leading to a crash, they can easily climb out of a box and now is not the time to use a harness and car safety belt. If the crate is small enough you can place it on a front or rear passenger seat and secure it with the seat-belt, or you may have to place it in the trunk of your car. Fully line the crate with absorbent paper in case there are any accidents, this will keep most of the mess off your puppy and make cleaning easier. And finally, place a chew toy or two in the crate to keep your puppy occupied. If you have another person to help you, your puppy can ride home in their lap if the journey is short. They must be under your passengers control. They will also need to potty every half or so. Therefore, you should plan breaks along the way every 30 minutes or so. Stop the car, allow them to drink, then wait for them to wee before setting off again. When you stop, make sure your puppy is on leash and tightly held by someone before letting them out of the car. And as an extra precaution, carry your puppy and only put them down to do their business, then carry them back into the car. Take with you some towels, plastic bags, kitchen roll and deodorizer to take care of any accidents. And when driving, take all corners slowly, and accelerate and brake gently. If your puppy is on a passengers lap, they will be able to see some warning signs that puppy is about to be sick: Their lips will curl, they will excessively salivate and then eventually start to heave. When your passenger spots these signs, they can place a thick towel beneath the puppy to catch everything and avoid a mess in your vehicle. When bringing home a new puppy, make sure you collect them and then drive straight home. Your puppy is having the most stressful day of their short life so far, try not to make it harder than it already is by taking them to strange places and passing them around to strangers to say hello. You want to get them home quickly so they can start the process of settling in as soon as possible. Whether this is inside on paper, or a spot outside, as soon as you arrive home carry them there, set them down and wait for them to do their business before doing anything else. This might take 30 seconds or it might take 10 minutes, but patiently wait and when they go, praise them profusely. Well done! Shut them in another room away from the puppy as things are intense enough as it is. Explain they have to be calm and gentle during the first introductions. Let them sniff and look around, getting used to the area and their new little world. You can now let people come and say hello. Have people sit or kneel to greet them. Once everybody has said hello, you should stay with your puppy, show interest but stay calm. Allow Your Puppy To Sleep After all the excitement, stress, massive change and huge amount of mental stimulation your puppy has just been through, they will likely need to sleep soon after arriving at your home. So as soon as they either start to look tired, or the introductions to their new living space and family have ended whichever comes first put them to bed for a short while. On the other hand they might feel completely overwhelmed, retreat into themselves and show reluctance to explore. They might slink into a corner silently and sit there watching their new world with wonder but apprehension, before falling asleep for hours. And when it comes to the first night they might sleep right through, or they might cry and whine the whole night. As your puppy begins to get used to everything, their character will start to shine through and you will begin to see their true personalities. Exactly what this will be is different for every puppy…it will be fun for you to find out! And by being the provider of everything they need in life, giving them all that is good, it will only take 2 or 3 days for your puppy to learn to love you and get excited and happy to see you when you turn up. So your task is to set up and stick to these schedules, begin training your puppy and help them to learn how you want them to behave and when they can expect the things they need in life. What should you feed your puppy You should feed your puppy the same food they had at the breeders because an abrupt change in diet almost always leads to stomach upset. Complete and balanced means it has everything a puppy needs, and in the right quantities. So seek out this kind of wording and check the internet for other owners reviews. Puppies need to eat a lot because their rate of growth is very high. For puppies up to 12 weeks, you should divide their daily requirement into 4 portions, for puppies 12 to 26 weeks, feed them 3 times per day and from 26 weeks on feed them twice per day. You should also aim to feed them as close as you can to the same times every day and evenly spaced throughout the day. This will help their body clocks fall into a pattern and will help your house training immensely because they then potty the same times every day. For example: 8 to 12 weeks old, 4 times a day at AM, AM, PM and PM 12 to 26 weeks old, 3 times a day at AM, PM and PM 26 weeks old and ongoing, 2 times a day at and Obviously you can adjust these times to take into account when you get out of bed and to fit around your life. Also… The first few nights have the crate or exercise pen your puppy sleeps in placed in your bedroom. One night move the crate next to the bedroom door. The next night move it outside the door, but leave the door open so they can still see you. The next night further into the hallway. Finally to their eventual resting place. They might take to sleeping on their own OK, they might whine and cry. NEVER go to them to comfort them if they cry, you must only get up to take them to potty and then silently and without fuss put them back into the crate. Rewarding silence and ignoring noise is the only way they will eventually learn to be quiet at night themselves. Any time you cannot closely supervise them, you have to confine them, either in their crate, an exercise pen or a puppy proofed room secured with a barrier across the doorway. The point of confining them as a puppy is so they can enjoy all the freedom in the world once they are an adult. By confining them with treat dispensing chew toys they get rewarded for chewing the right things and develop a chew toy obsession. Confine them now, they form a good chew toy obsession and have no chance of developing bad chewing habits. Then once they are over their adolescent chewing stage you slowly open up the house to them and eventually they can have free roam and be completely trusted. A little sacrifice when young for a better life later. And a second hugely important reason for confining your puppy when you cannot supervise them is for speedier house training. In fact if you read my comments from earlier, you will see you start the very first moment you finish the journey home. In essence, house training is about creating good habits while avoiding bad ones and for the speediest success you want to start immediately. Wherever your puppy is able to potty has the chance of becoming their favored toilet spot for many weeks or months to come. So you want to prevent them pottying inside, and encourage them to potty outside. The main ingredients of a successful house training program are preventing mistakes and praising heavily for doing the right thing. Achieving this is all about schedules, supervision and confinement. Now, your puppy will need to potty anywhere from every 15 to 45 minutes. So to start with, take them outside every 30 minutes and adjust this schedule to suit their natural rhythm. You must also take them outside immediately after they wake up from any sleep, after any eating or drinking, after play and after any heightened excitement. These are times that often lead to a puppy needing to potty so take them outside at these times and you will avoid many mistakes while taking advantage of predictable opportunities to praise them for doing the right thing. In the first week or so, you will likely find your puppy almost instantaneously leaks with little warning. Simply do your best to take them out to potty extremely often so they go in the right place as often as possible. And confine them to a single enclosed room or in an exercise pen for the first week or so to protect your carpets. Crate training goes hand in hand with house training, being one of the best tools to help speed up the process. Therefore, you want to start crate training very early on, after just a few days of getting puppy home, and I personally aim for 9 weeks old to start. I prefer to wait a week or so to avoid them pottying in the crate as much as possible, doing the most I can to preserve their instinct not to soil where they sleep, the instinct that helps most when using a crate for house training. But by all means sleep them in their crate at night if you wish and I do. For more information on crate training your puppy and using it for house training purposes, please see the links below:. Fact checked by Emily Estep Emily Estep is a biologist and fact checker focused on environmental sciences. Emily has been a proofreader and editor at a variety of online media outlets over the past decade and has reviewed more than articles for The Spruce Pets for factual accuracy. These smart, social dogs are known for their amiable temperaments and their patience. Traditionally bred as hunting dogs, Labs also are among the most popular service dogs, acting as guide dogs for blind people and as therapy dogs. By socializing these dogs early, you can tap into their natural instincts as protectors and companions. Socialize Puppies Labs are natural born people pleasers. Introduce your Lab puppy to as many new people and places as possible during the early months of its life. Keep each new meeting and experience positive and upbeat. Doing this will reinforce your Lab's natural tendency to be friendly and accepting of everyone. If you have young children in the home, be sure to socialize them to the animal as well as the reverse. Although Labs are patient and tolerant, they may still nip at a child who teases or hurts them during play. Make sure everyone knows the boundaries and rules. Exercise Every Day Labrador retrievers are high energy dogs, which is part of the reason they are such great pets for active families. But if Labs aren't given sufficient exercise, they can quickly become bored. This often leads to destructive behavior and other common behavior problems , such as barking, chewing, and digging. It's also why Labs are not well-suited for apartment living; they're too big and too active. Plan on giving your Lab an hour or more of exercise each day. Most Labs love long walks or a game of fetch. These are the perfect way to burn off your Lab's energy. Take advantage of their innate trainability by starting an obedience program as soon as you bring your Labrador retriever home. You can work on basic obedience commands on your own, or sign up for a dog obedience class with a local dog trainer. Classes are a great way to train your Lab while socializing at the same time. Since Labs get to be fairly large and have a tendency to pull on the leash, make walking on a loose leash your first priority. You should also teach your Lab to "come," "drop it," and "fetch," so you can take advantage of its natural tendency for retrieving. Use Positive Reinforcement Training Their eagerness to learn, playfulness, affectionate natures, and their love of treats make Labrador retrievers fantastic candidates for positive reinforcement dog training. Reward their good behaviors with a small treat, a game, or some cuddle time with you. You'll find your Lab is soon offering you the behaviors you like with little prompting. If you decide to use treats in your training, remember that Labs have a tendency to become overweight. Plan on a Long Adolescence One of the most endearing qualities of Labrador retrievers is that they remain very puppy-like long after they've reached adulthood. The downside is that their energy level and tendency to get into mischief continues well into adulthood as well. Therefore, it pays to have behavior management tools handy. The training to become a service animal will vary depending on what the dog will be doing; some are trained to be animal companions to sick children and adults in the hospital, while others are trained to serve as seeing-eye dogs. Others may provide assistance to people with mental illnesses, or behavioral problems. Check the requirements for licensing and training where you live; some places have more strict rules and requirements for service dogs than others. Problems and Proofing Behavior Many Labrador retrievers are happiest and the most well-behaved when they have a job to do. Consider getting involved with a dog sport or training your Lab as a service animal or pet therapy dog. Crate train your Labrador so it doesn't have the run of the house when you're not there to supervise Provide your Lab with a variety of interesting toys and chews to keep it from getting bored. Continue practicing basic obedience commands; it reinforces your Lab's training and provides mental stimulation. No matter what training you decide on, keeping your Lab busy and active is sure to keep one of those famous Lab smiles on its face. Article Sources The Spruce Pets uses only high-quality sources, including peer-reviewed studies, to support the facts within our articles. Read our editorial process to learn more about how we fact-check and keep our content accurate, reliable, and trustworthy. McGreevy, Paul D et al. Labrador retrievers under primary veterinary care in the UK: demography, mortality and disorders. Canine genetics and epidemiology vol. Print Raising a retriever puppy like the pros Your Labrador puppy can seem small and fragile during those first few weeks home from the breeder. Labrador puppies will learn quickly about acceptable and unacceptable behavior those first few weeks, if you, the owner, are willing to set and enforce boundaries. Here is the training you should be working on with your week-old Labrador puppy. About this series of posts This is post three of a step-by-step training and socialization program for Labrador puppies. If you read our first post , you know that this series follows our training of Bubba, a female chocolate lab puppy. Bubba is already sold as one of our Custom Trained Retrievers, so it is our responsibility to raise and train her until she has progressed to the level of training the owner has requested. In this case, Bubba will be with us for almost a year and a half. Training and socialization for week-old Labrador puppy — week three home Your week-old puppy has been with your family for approximately 3 weeks now. This week you should start noticing some bigger changes with your puppy. Here are some of the changes I notice with Bubba. First, she is growing fast! Bubba is almost ready for a new collar already. I have loosened her current collar twice, and there is no more room to expand it. She is also learning a lot. Bubba is also becoming more personable. She likes and has more interest in people now and wants to be petted and scratched more often. Training equipment for Lab puppy We added a couple new training tools this week. But a thicker check cord will also work. We use this check cord for longer outside marks and assistant-marks which I will discuss more in a bit. Puppy sized canvas or light-weight plastic bumpers In week two, we introduced formal retrieving in a hallway in the house. In week three, we move outside with retrieving and introduce assistant throws, so it is helpful to have a few more bumpers. Puppy training that will continue Much of the training I have been working on for the past two weeks with Bubba will continue into this week and beyond. Dog training is not something that has a definitive end-date. For instance, you teach your puppy to SIT and then you must work and practice that command daily or weekly, often for months before the response to the command is solid. But even once the response is solid, you cannot completely stop training. If you stop training, even an older dog, the dog can lose the previous training. So, realize that you are never done working with your dog, especially on obedience training. Some areas that we will continue training Bubba on are: Crate training Bubba is doing great at crate training. She rarely makes any noise while in her crate and settles down quickly after being put into her crate. In the upcoming weeks, we will work towards getting Bubba to enter her crate on command. Looking for more information on crate training? Housebreaking Housebreaking Bubba is going well. We have caught her in a few accidents, but she already seems to understand that she is not supposed to go potty inside. This does not mean that she is done housebreaking. We still expect accidents and will for a few months, so we watch her carefully while she is running around in the house. We also praise her for behaviors like going to the door and tapping the door or whining at the door. These behaviors are rewarded with us taking her outside to go potty. When she goes potty outside, we praise her and then take her right back in. We want her to start understanding that these cue behaviors will get her out to go potty and that is all. Looking for more information on housebreaking? But we will also add a few new ones. We will use this while teaching our puppy the SIT command. It also will be used going forward, anytime we are done working on structured obedience work. We will release the dog from formal work with the OKAY command. But we also use it to mean go to a certain place, such as on a mat or stand. Or, when we want her to go into her crate or kennel. This is an associative command, meaning the puppy will learn the command through our repetition of the word as we tie it to a behavior. But over time, she will make the association and will perform it on her own. This is very important especially if you ever plan on doing more advanced training with your retriever. You will use whatever your dogs name is. A few commands that we will continue to work on this week We will continue to work on obedience commands this week and in the weeks to come. Each week we will expect a little more and better compliance and performance to the command. She is sitting when I put the leash and chain collar on her and when I am taking it off. This week we also added SIT before eating. We only make her SIT for a few seconds; we are working on control. She does not SIT on her own yet, but she will be doing that within a week or so I would guess. Right now, I grab her collar and say SIT. In week three, I have a slightly higher expectation. On walks, I make her walk right beside me for a minute or two using the HEEL command before releasing her and letting her run back and forth a bit. This tells me that she understands the command. Then release her. If every time your puppy comes to you, you put her away or take something away from her, soon your puppy will not want to come to you. You must work hard to make coming to you a good experience for your puppy. So, call her, praise her when she comes and release. Remember: Never use a HERE command if you are not in the position of being able to enforce the command. Make every effort to socialize your puppy You should continue to take steps to socialize your week-old puppy. Anything you can think of. The more things and situations you expose your puppy to, the better your puppy will be equipped to adjust and learn in the future. Learn more about socialization. Hand throws with a puppy bumper you are throwing out a bumper done outside will carry a lot more distraction than retrieves in a hallway. Just pick up the bumper and try again tomorrow. When retrieving outside, make sure you have a long foot rope attached to your puppy. Never try to do retrieves outside without a rope. You will have problems and encourage bad behaviors. You must have a way to get the puppy to come back to you, otherwise you should not be doing retrieves outside. Once your puppy is doing well retrieving outside, you are ready to introduce assistant marks. Introduction to assistant marks The most important thing we worked on with Bubba this week is assistant marks. Assistant marks are retrieves where someone else is throwing the bumper, not you. This teaches your puppy to watch out in the field for a mark. It is very rare that a duck will come from behind you, fly over your head and you shoot it. The ducks and pheasants will be falling in front of you, so the dog must learn to look out and watch for the mark. We start assistant marks on very short grass with white plugs so that the puppy can clearly see the item on the ground. We hold the puppy in a SIT position facing a thrower who is about 20 feet from you. When your puppy picks up the bumper, immediately start calling her back to you. Remember, you should have the foot check cord on her so you can pull the puppy in if needed. Then, take the bumper from her, throw it behind you, make your puppy sit facing the thrower again and repeat. Only do retrieves and then call it a day. Soon your puppy will learn this game and love it. They will start facing the thrower on their own and sitting and waiting for a mark. Final thoughts on training for your week-old Labrador puppy week-old puppies are so eager to learn, so be sure and take advantage of this enthusiasm to teach new concepts and enforce previous ones. Continue to teach your puppy to handle more and more pressure and correction while maintaining a good attitude. Lastly, assistant marks are a big deal. Once a dog learns this part of the game, you can work to increase the distance and complexity of the marks. If you are struggling or need additional help with your new puppy, you can email me ottertailkennels gmail. I would be happy to discuss your goals for your retriever and tell you about the programs I offer. Until next time, happy retrieving. They help you find the information you need right now. You might also want to check out our sections on Labrador Puppy Training. Do let us know what you would like to see added to the site. We are always happy to have your comments and suggestions. When To Collect Your Puppy We highly recommend that puppies are not removed from their breeder until they are 8 weeks old. There are lots of good reasons for this. It helps puppies develop good bite moderation skills before they are adopted into a family, ensures that they are ready to adapt quickly to their new life. And it helps to reduce the sad numbers of puppies bred for a quick profit. Puppies sold under seven weeks old often have health problems and need special care, and extra veterinary attention. Check out the following articles for further information: When can puppies leave their mother Your first puppy Your first puppy is a huge adventure. You have so much fun ahead. Labradors are generally very friendly dogs, but they can also be very distractible. So do start daily training games, using plenty of food. You can get regular training tips from Pippa by email, using the box below. However, a healthy six-month-old labrador will grow significantly in size. Some of them can weigh up to 50 pounds. For a more balanced diet at six months, you can shift from feeding your puppy three smaller meals per day to two meals a day. To counteract this, you can drop the amount of food and gradually increase it. Setting Your Lab Puppy Up for Successful Potty Training Training an animal to control their bladders until you get outside is no different than potty-training for toddlers. In other words, crate training speeds up the potty-training process for your pet. Effective crate training depends on two things: Praising and rewarding your puppy for relieving itself outside. They come to understand this as a desirable behavior. Preventing your puppy from going to the toilet within the home. So, why is using a crate to train your puppy to go outside so effective? Initially, this should be every hour or so. As labs grow older, you can reduce the frequency as they learn to hold and release independently. Step 2: House Training a Lab Puppy Housetraining or potty-training small labs can be, well, frustrating. As a pet owner, there are simple ways to train your puppy to understand ideal behavior quickly. Instead, they simply forget that they should control it. This helps avoid any issues early on. Keep small labrador puppies off the carpet. How to Feed Your Dog for Optimal Growth Feeding your labrador puppy a balanced diet could be an entire guide all on its own. It can feel overwhelming because you do have many options when it comes to feeding your dog. For example, if you work from home, it would be easy to feed your dog homemade dog food. Similarly, you might work a and yet want to reap the health-related benefits of a raw diet. Make sure to speak to your vet first. You do have choices for what to feed your puppy and you can mix and match these. Popular feeding options for any animal include kibble, wet food, raw food, and home-cooked food. Remember, a puppy is still growing, and they need a complete profile of nutrients and minerals to support their development. There are many commercial brands of dry food or kibble to choose from and you can adjust what you buy based on the ingredients. Do your research and find a brand you trust, with as much bioavailable nutritional content as is helpful. These can harm your puppy. In order to maintain good health and prevent simple ailments, your puppy can also benefit from taking a supplement. Some families choose to mix scraps or raw food with kibble to provide moisture and decrease the amount of food versus the calories consumed. Any veterinarian will tell you that a hard and fast rule is not necessarily the type of food but the amount. Obesity is a condition that can lead to many health issues for this breed. Over-exertion, especially for a puppy, is possible. This includes activities like playing fetch or tug and release. However, breeds that worked as a hunting companion for humans love to be active. Again, this goes back to the strengths of the breed. Keeping up with your puppy could be a task-and-a-half, so in the first months of life, you should be keeping them in your backyard or playing with them at home. As they become house trained and get all their vaccinations, you can turn walks into light jogs or runs if you want. In the long-term, exercise will help keep dogs healthy and disease-free. However, early dog training can eliminate common problems with puppy temperament and help make sure that your fur friend is always as friendly and happy as possible through the years. Puppy socialization simply means making your puppy open to and familiar with new experiences. You want to provide stimulation and encounters with experiences that they will probably face as adults. The window of opportunity to make sure your puppy is always a happy and friendly pooch closes around 14 weeks. Pre-Vaccination Lab Puppy Socialization Any veterinarian will tell you that a puppy is all done with their vaccinations after 12 weeks of age. The main point is to keep your puppy away from other dogs who may not yet be vaccinated or the excrement and markings of other animals that could carry data diseases. You can head to an off-leash dog park to allow them to explore and meet other fur friends. You can also take them beyond your backyard to the countryside to enable them to swim or set up obstacle courses and play with them. Another thing that people forget about is spaying or neutering their dogs. Spaying or neutering your dog could help with behavioral issues and can also reduce the onset of certain health conditions. At the same time, spaying or neutering a puppy too early may also lead to health issues. For many people, this is a worthwhile and even enjoyable trade-off. A happy, sociable dog is always the result of consistent training. Training your dog is a significant aspect of their early years. The different stages include: Get it — Using positive reinforcement, trainers will help your dog carry out actions without commands. Teach it — This stage harnesses the progress you made in the previous stages. Your dog now knows the word and the action that goes with it. Proof it — Proofing is where many people get stuck. Your dog will learn to listen and obey commands at this stage even when they are engaged in other things. Maintain it — Consistently using the techniques you learned to keep your dog following the same desirable behavior. All breeds of dogs respond best when you train them. Every labrador retriever relies on their human taking control and showing them how to respond in any situation. You can be sure that if you follow these tips that you will be taking proper care of your new puppy and will be able to make sure that your puppy will live a long and healthy life. Share on. Labrador Retriever pups are working dogs. This means they live to please you for a treat. The more you engage them with different puppy training behaviors the happier they will be. Of course, Labs will be Labs, and this means that dogs do dog things unless they are trained to follow your expectations. Potty training your puppy is just the beginning of you making clear expectations for your Lab. Puppy training from long leash training to potty training, to not nipping is discussed in greater detail along with clear, easy to follow videos at www. But we will give you an expert training tip summary below. For this reason, you need to become an expert on puppy training. Contact us for a discount on the Puppy Trained Right positive reinforcement training program. Expose your puppy to as many different people and situations possible. Teach dog to dog manners when required. Use Positive Reinforcement. Allow for Play with Other Puppies. Play with other Lab Puppies not only allows your pup to get some exercise it is a form of puppy socialization. Bond with your Puppy. Once a strong bond is formed your Lab Puppy will want to please you even more. Potty Train Right Away. Learn how Dogs Learn. Training a Lab puppy is easy if you understand how to go about it. Give your Lab Puppy Play time to Explore. Labs need this as part of their natural development. Spend more time with your puppy when young. This is the time when your expectations should be clearly outlined and can decrease as she gets older. Begin Training day 1. This happens weather or not you intend it to. Every action and reaction is something your puppy uses to form new habits. So ignoring them jumping up as an 8 week old puppy is training them to jump up and will be much more difficult to un-train once they are 70 lbs. Relax and make learning fun. Your pup needs you happy and enjoying yourself! Use Positive Training Methods because they work. This means reward what you desire. Ensure most Experiences are Positive. Imagine a training session of No, No, No, No! Expose them to as Many Human Situations possible. One cause is that there was not adequate socialization with different men. Be Patient. You are building an amazing K9 personality. The window is between 8 and 20 weeks old. Make the most of it. The better your Lab is socialized the happier they will be. Anxiety in dogs comes from many things. The more things your dog is comfortable with the less chance for anxiety and therefore the happier they are. Prepare yourself, your family and your home before your puppy comes home. It is too late once you meet your puppy as simply interacting with her is training. Allow for Safe Experiences both in the home and outside. Seek professional trainers to help guide you when faced with a problem. Be consistent. Clear expectations are easiest to learn. Focus on Guiding not controlling. Best Start Training or Training Classes are beneficial for both you and your puppy. Expect Success. We tend to move in the direction we believe we will travel. Reward the Behaviors you want to see even something as simple as 4 paws on the ground if you are trying to train your Lab not to jump up on you. Become Well informed. You are teaching a skill like reading that takes clear expectations and builds upon last session. Lab Puppies need constant supervision either human, a crate, a fenced area or a baby gate across a doorway. Encourage a soft mouth. Keep your training up or it will be forgotten. Begin Walking on a Loose Leash Right away. This is always easier for your Lab when they are 12 lbs not 70lbs. Change direction before the leash tightens so they are followers not leaders. This is much easier to train before it happens than correct. Allow alone time for your Lab. Know when to end a training session. End training before your puppy quits. Make time for a few shorter training Sessions. Three fifteen minute sessions are better than one 45 min one. Teach your Lab to respond to their name. Teach your Labrador basic obedience before tricks-come, sit, stay, down, leave it. Have all humans learn the commands and be consistent. Ignore undesirable behaviors. Ignoring includes not saying no, bad dog, touching your dog or making eye contact. Find rewards that your Retriever loves and use them when you have breakthrough training moments. Adjust your expectations as your Lab puppy matures, the older more experienced the higher the expectation. Set Realistic Expectations. Minimize distractions when you begin training. Be aware of your Body Language, Labradors pick up cues from you. Be aware of your leash tension. A tight leash says anxiety from the handler. Know when to get Help .Have fun! Understand that Labs do Lab things. Make them work for food and treats. Exercise your Retriever properly for both intensity and duration. Learn some exercise games Labs love. Give lots of repetition. Stop before they get bored. Establish a Pattern by Praising. Redirect undesired behavior. Accept partial actions at first and gradually increase your expectations. When treats end Verbal treats and chin scratches rule. They will know. Enjoy your well balanced purebred Lab puppy for many years. Purebred Lab Retrievers, are they easier to train? The answer to that is definitely maybe! Not all purebreds are bred for intelligence. For example, if a Labrador Retriever breeder chooses to breed their dogs for a certain look then they may overlook intelligence as one of the important characteristics in order to get a specific Lab look. We however breed for intelligence, health and temperament. So in our case, yes, our Purebred Lab Puppies are easier to train than many because we choose the parents and their puppies specifically for their smarts!

Your new furry friend has a lot of growing to do, and you probably have a lot of questions. Your Golden Retriever puppy will go through a number of developmental stages throughout their first twelve weeks. Male Golden Retrievers generally weigh between 65 and 75 pounds and stand from 23 to 24 inches tall. Females are generally smaller weighing between 55 to 65 pounds, and will grow to stand .At 4 months, your Golden Retriever puppy will reach about half their adult height. When it comes to mental development, it can take even longer than that before the Golden Retriever is fully mature. However, every puppy is a unique individual, and these are merely milestone guidelines. Disparities exist between the working and show Goldens, as well as between males and females. Golden Retriever puppy growth can also be quite sporadic. As an overall average, many Golden Retriever puppies will weigh just approximately 1. Golden Retrievers are classified as a gundog breed, and these dogs are often divided into those bred for show and those meant for work. However, the body of the show Golden is typically larger, taller, heavy-boned, and fuller in the chest. Small Parents Like people, puppies inherit physical traits from their parents. And even puppies from the same litter can vary in size. Neither of these scenarios is healthy for a puppy. Larger breeds like the Golden Retriever are more at risk for growth disorders than small breed dogs. This article will give you a lot more information on how much to feed, what to feed, and how often to feed a Golden Retriever puppy. Illness and Puppy Growth If a puppy has been seriously ill for a prolonged period, it may affect their ability to grow normally. However, once the puppy is free of worms, they should continue to grow at a normal rate. The best way to determine if your puppy is too thin or too fat is by how he looks and feels. When looking at your puppy from above, he should have a noticeable waistline. Another way to tell is by putting your hands on either side of his ribcage. You should be able to feel his ribs using a gentle pressure. But if his ribs are visible, he could be underweight. Obesity is a huge problem for many dog breeds. Although there are ways to make your puppy grow bigger, this is not something you should attempt. It could also mean you end up with a fat puppy. One of the best ways to ensure your puppy has a long, healthy life is to ensure he stays at an optimal weight. Hip and elbow dysplasia and other musculoskeletal disorders are associated with excess weight in larger breeds. Having your dog neutered at a young age can also cause them to grow taller. The problem is, this can also cause abnormalities in joint formation. Neutering also makes Golden Retrievers more at risk for certain types of cancers. Typically it will take approximately 18 months for your Golden Retriever to become an adult dog. Even though they can reach their full height at anywhere from 9 to 12 months, it will usually take them longer to fill out to their full weight. Remember that there are wide variations in size within the Golden Retriever breed. If this is the case, you should contact your veterinarian to seek advice. Beginning the puppy development stages before birth Puppy development stages week by week Amazingly, in a way the puppy development stages begin before your dog is even born. Your puppy spends approximately 9 weeks developing inside his Mom. The mother dog has a womb or uterus, that has two long tubes, and the puppies grow in a row along each tube rather like peas in a pod. The puppies are joined to their mother by a placenta which provides all the nourishment they need for those few weeks. To begin with, the puppies have plenty of room to move but they grow fast and as the time for birth draws near they are packed in quite tightly. The one week old puppy Your puppy is born fully furred but with his eyes and ears closed so he cannot hear or see. His front feet are strong and he can pull himself towards his mother with them. He can cry if he is uncomfortable and his mother will respond to his cries by moving him towards her and licking him. Your puppy spends most of his time sleeping or suckling. He cannot regulate his own body temperature and needs his mother for heat, or an artificial heat source. In the first week to ten days of his life your puppy grows rapidly and will double his birth weight. His forelegs are getting much stronger. She licks the puppies bottoms to stimulate a bowel or bladder movement and eats the result. There is no cleaning up for the breeder to do yet. The breeder will begin to handle the puppies more though, and get them used to human contact. She will worm the puppies for the first time at the end of this week. Puppies begin to get their personalities. Your puppy can stand and sit up by the end of the week. Tails can be wagged, ears will be completely open and puppies start play growling and interacting with their littermates. Your puppy can regulate his body temperature more effectively and will start to cut his first teeth in preparation for weaning. The front teeth, canines and incisors are cut first. Toward the end of the week he may have his first tiny taste of puppy food. They also start to move away from the sleeping area to empty their bowels and bladder. They may try to climb out of the whelping box. If she lives indoors, she may rejoin the family for more of each day. Your puppy will cut his back teeth and the breeder will get weaning underway this week and by the end of it, your puppy will be getting quite a bit of his nourishment from puppy food. She will also worm the puppies a second time. If the mother is allowed near the puppies after she has been fed, she may regurgitate her dinner for them. This is completely natural and normal. He is a proper little dog. Rolling around with his brothers and sisters and playing with toys. Teething toys, puppy Kongs, balls and rope toys are big favorites with puppies. He can bark too and some puppies can be quite noisy at this age! He chases after his mother whenever she appears and suckles hungrily, but she is starting to get fed up with it, and may be reluctant to feed her brood for very long. His mother is teaching him not to bite too hard. If he lives in outdoor kennels he should spend part of each day indoors with the family. By the end of the sixth week, most are fully weaned, and eating five or six little meals of puppy food each day. Socialization must begin in earnest. He is now two months old and ready for his new life. It is the time during which they become fearful of anything unfamiliar and need to be thoroughly socialized. This is also the time during which most puppies get to grips with house-training, learning to wait before eliminating and start sleeping through the night without a potty break. It is a busy time for new puppy owners. Your puppy will have his vaccinations during this month. Biting can be a big problem during this stage and you need to be patient and consistent in order to teach the puppy not to hurt people when he plays. Provided you use force free methods, this is a great time to get puppy training under way, and especially to teach a puppy recall, and to get your puppy used to working with food. So, for a 2. You can do the same calculation for medium pups at sixteen weeks and large breed pups at 20 weeks — just divide his weight by his age in weeks before you multiply by .Medium to large pups will reach about half their adult height by the end of the month. If the weather is warm you can get your puppy swimming now. He should be able to come when he is called, in and around your home, provided there are not too many distractions. It all depends on what you have taught him. He may still be chewing a lot and biting too. Use frozen Kongs to help him and give your furniture and fingers a break. Puppies can go for short walks now. By the end of this month your puppy could have a twenty minute walk each day. He may also enjoy fetching a ball and playing with other dogs, but take care to stop before he gets very tired. Less dependence This is the month during which some puppies start to become less dependent on their humans for security. Keep your puppy close to you outdoors by changing direction frequently so that you puppy has to keep coming to find you. And engaging him in games. The foundations of a great recall are often build or spoilt during this month. If your puppy knows how to sit or lie down at home, start some simple proofing exercises with him in public places. A healthy puppy can usually manage on two meals a day from around six months. During this month a Retriever, Spaniel or GSD puppy will reach around two thirds of his adult weight. A Great Dane and other large breeds will have reached about half their final weight and little dogs will have almost completed their growth. Some female dogs will come on heat for the first time during this month, or the next, so keep an eye open now for swelling of her vulva and any discharge. Your dog will become increasingly confident over the next few months so practice, practice and practice that recall! Make it a habit he cannot break. And be generous with your rewards. Small breed pups may now be more or less mature. Your puppy will enjoy half hour off lead walks now, and should be able to walk on a loose lead for short periods with plenty of encouragement and rewards. Keep practicing that recall! These help to slow his growth further and to build his confidence. Make sure you practice good outdoor management on walks to maintain the good recall you have built and work hard on thoroughly proofing all his obedience skills. Read up on neutering before you take this important step, for dogs of either sex. Once your dog is a year old he can participate in more strenuous activities and sports. Now is the time to think about the kinds of activities you would like to do with him — go jogging together for example — and if necessary, to start to get him fit. Puppy development stages — Summary There is huge variation in the way in which dogs develop and mature. The puppy development stages and ages outlined above are a rough guide. We hope you enjoyed them and found the information interesting. When it comes to training, you get out what you put in. Your progress depends as much if not more on you rather than your puppy. If you train your puppy five times a day, six days a week he will learn many, many times faster than a puppy that is trained once a day at the weekend. Enjoy watching your puppy grow and develop. And have fun! Bite Inhibition Young puppies also need to stay with their mom and siblings to learn proper bite inhibition. If they bite their mom or sibling too hard, they will act in a way that communicates to the puppy that the bite was too hard and not acceptable. Mom might get up and walk away or gently correct the pup with a subtle growl. Their littermate will usually let out a high pitch yelp with stops the play and tells the bitey puppy that their chomp was too much. Without waiting until at least eight weeks to bring home your puppy, they are more likely to be very bitey and not know how to soften their bites. You give your puppy and yourself the best chance at a happy, healthy life together by waiting until they are at least eight weeks old. Bringing home a Golden Retriever puppy soon? Check out the Golden Retriever Puppy Handbook! The absolute best thing you can do is to talk to the breeder and return the puppy until they are a bit older. Then, when your puppy is at least eight weeks old, you can pick them up again from the breeder and start your life together. Find a Surrogate Canine Family If getting your Golden Retriever puppy back to their mother and littermates is impossible, the next best thing is to at least let them spend those last couple critical weeks with other dogs and puppies. Puppies need to be learning lessons from other dogs at this age, ideally their own mother and siblings, but unrelated dogs and puppies can help. Do you know someone else with a puppy? Do you know someone who has a dog who is good with puppies? Maybe there is a friend of a friend who is fostering a litter of puppies? Ask around and see if friends and family might have some puppies and dogs that you can get your puppy around. Social media can be really helpful for networking with other dog lovers who could help you out with the situation you are in. They can help you understand what to feed them and come up with an appropriate feeding schedule. Your vet might also have some tips to ensure your puppy stays healthy and to prevent behavior issues from developing. Here is what is typical for a puppy of this age: Sleep If you were to spend a day with a litter of six-week-old Golden Retriever puppies, you might be surprised by just how much they sleep. At this stage, puppies are undergoing a lot of physical and mental growth so they need plenty of rest to make sure that they develop properly. Pottying You might also be surprised by just how much a six-week-old puppy poops and pees. A good breeder will be working diligently on potty training a litter of six-week-old puppies so that they start to learn good potty habits before they go home to their forever families. Puppies this age love romping around, playing chase, tug and wrestling with their siblings. They also can start to show off their retrieval instincts with little games of fetch. Some puppies might still nurse from their mom, but by six weeks, they are able to be on solid food exclusively. Breeders usually feed many small meals throughout the day, so a six-week-old puppy might be eating between four and six meals a day. Responsible breeders will also be very mindful that six-week-old puppies are in the prime window for puppy socialization. Early socialization is very important in preventing potential behavior issues from arising as the puppy matures, and it helps bring out the absolute best in the puppy. Many breeders will even start some basic training with young puppies, such as sitting for their meals and acclimating them to spending time in a crate. In short, you can expect six-week-old Goldens to be eating, pooping, playing, napping machines with brains that are little sponges ready to learn and explore over the next couple of weeks before they go home to their new families. Puppy Patience When it comes to adding a puppy to your family, patience truly is a virtue. Resist the temptation of a cute six-week-old puppy and give them just a couple more weeks to be ready to come home. A little extra waiting will go a long way to setting you and your puppy up for a long, happy, healthy life together. Have any questions about 6-week-old Golden Retriever puppies? Let us know down in the comments! Read the rest of our Golden Retriever puppy series here:. Share 0 Shares A six-week-old golden retriever puppy is a wonder to behold. Golden Retrievers are so cute around this age, and of course, people will impatiently want to take one home at only 6 weeks old. The extra time is quite necessary because it gives them enough time with their mother and siblings, and allows for additional development. But you have to resist that urge. Waiting for the extra two weeks allows the puppy to have enough time with its family to foster healthy development. Another important reason to not remove golden retriever puppies too soon is that it affects their health. Pups who are prematurely rehomed often have weakened immune systems and a lack of appetite. Being with their litter allows them to develop confidence and learn about how they should act with each new thing they encounter in their world. Puppies need to play. It helps them to learn to get used to touching and being picked up or moved around. Bite Inhibition One of the things that golden retriever puppies learn from their moms is proper bite inhibition. However, their teeth are really sharp. When they bite their mom or their siblings and they react to the bite, the puppy learns that biting hurts. The mom might either walk away from the pup or growl at them and put the fear of God in them. A littermate will usually let out a startling yelp, which is enough to put a stop to whatever sort of play had been previously happening and let the puppy know that they bit too hard. These things just happen sometimes. The best thing you can do is to call up the breeder and return the puppy to its mother for the next two weeks. It may seem like an extra expense, but you would have paid to buy the puppy food and such, anyway. And it really is worth it just to make sure the puppy develops properly. When the puppy is 8 weeks old, you can go pick up your pup from the breeder and take it home. Ask your friends and family about finding a surrogate canine family for your puppy. Most responsible dog owners will understand the situation and be willing to help if they can. Your vet can give you important information, like what to feed your puppy and when to feed them. Of course, you may be advised about other ways you can keep your puppy healthy and avoid behavioral issues. Puppies grow a lot during this time both mentally and physically , so they need loads of sleep to ensure they properly develop. Pottying Just as with sleep, puppies poop and pee a surprising amount. Some of the games that six-week-old puppies play are chase, wrestling, and tug, as well as running around, and something similar to tag. When playing with your six-week-old puppy, watch out for their super-sharp teeth. Teeth Six-week-old golden retriever puppies are very mouthy. They use their mouths to explore their world, so just about everything winds up in their mouths at some point. You can expect your six-week-old golden to have developed a full set of razor-sharp puppy teeth. Eating Puppies need their teeth because, by six weeks old, puppies are typically fully weaned. This is typically just habit and bonding because the puppy no longer needs the milk at this point. Most breeders start feeding six-week-old puppies several times throughout the day. You can expect your golden puppy to average between 4 and 6 meals every day. Personality A six-week-old golden retriever puppy starts displaying its personality. This is quite important when it comes to choosing which puppies are suited to be service dogs, and which ones would be better suited as house pets. Breeders typically start running pre-tests with puppies this age to see which of the puppies are cut out to be service dogs. Most breeders recognize this as the ideal time to start socializing puppies. This makes puppies more adaptable. Socialization is an important part of puppy development because it can prevent behavioral issues from developing as the puppy grows. It can also help your puppy be the best version of itself. If your puppy starts showing a little fear or trepidation when it encounters new places or things, you need to remember that this is perfectly normal. Sometimes humans are afraid of new things, too, right? Six-week-old Golden Retrievers should be experiencing positive interactions with humans. This means that you should be inviting other people around your puppies to get them used to people. However, if your puppy has been fully vaccinated, then it should be allowed outside and should be gradually introduced to other animals. Six weeks is a good time to start training puppies , as well. And their intelligent little brains will be eager to learn anything you teach them, so you should definitely start teaching them as much as you can before you send them to live with their new family in a couple of weeks. Growth Up until this point, your puppy has likely experienced a lot of growth. But how much does a six-week-old Golden Retriever puppy grow? From the sixth week on, you can expect your puppy to gain 5 ounces per week. But which type of food should you feed your puppy? When you start feeding your puppy solid dry kibble, you need to moisten it to soften it a bit. You can do this with either water or broth. Personally, I put the water or broth in with the kibble for about minutes, or long enough for it to soak up the liquid. Give your puppy small meals around 4- 6 times a day so that it gets all of the nutrients and energy it needs. In some places, certain vaccinations are required, like rabies vaccinations. Patience with Your Puppy Patience is key when it comes to bringing home a new puppy. Even if you want to immediately bring home a six-week-old ball of adorable fluff, you need to resist that urge so that the puppy can receive all the experiences it needs to develop properly. This will give you fewer chances that the puppy will develop behavioral disorders later down the road. Check out our other posts about the development of Golden Retriever puppies:. Brown 7 lb 1. The size gap between our smallest and largest puppy keeps getting bigger as Patriot is well over a pound heavier than Trooper. Archer was very curious since day 1, but even though he and Raven were best pals she still was protective of her puppies. Since the beginning we allowed supervised interaction and Archer loved the little guys and just wanted to play…albeit sometimes a little too rough… Archer vs Six week old Golden Retriever puppy Day 37 — Kids and Puppies We continued to socialize our Golden pups with people young and old. Some of our favorite puppy raiser friends stopped by and brought over their grandchildren to play with the pups. At this age the puppies like running around and act like hams. Long gone are the days of the docile, sleepy puppies. Welcome to the wonderful world of running wild Golden pups! Day 40 — Our Little Golden Explorers! As time moved on these guys became more and more mobile and less easy to contain in small environments. A few weeks earlier they started climbing out of the short wall in the whelping box. As the below picture illustrates this little one enjoyed climbing onto this shelf making it his own doggy bed. Our little Golden puppy in hiding. In case you missed our other posts about our litter of Golden Retriever pups take a look back at past weeks: Week 1 — Six Golden Retriever puppies are born! Week 3 — First bark! Week 7 — The great puppy escape artists! Week 8 — Our golden puppies head to their new homes. Okay, guys and gals. Almost every time I return to the whelping box it looks like a poop war broke out. It sounds funny now, but the sight and stink are not fun. What about you guys? Have any of you ever raised a litter of puppies? If so, tell us your story in the comment section below. This is the first book we bought before bringing home our first puppy, Linus. Helps ease anxiety in their new home. We love using Bully Sticks to help divert these unwanted behaviors. Check out more of our favorites on our New Puppy Checklist. Colby Colby Morita has been raising and training guide and service dog puppies for over 13 years. Colby has been writing to the PuppyInTraining.

Remind children to be calm and gentle. One of the healthiest things you can do for your puppy is give pup lots of love and attention lots and lots of attention. Dogs are extremely loyal by nature and are happy when they please you. Studies show that emotionally, dogs benefit from being petted by humans as mush as humans do from petting dogs. So spend time with your little companion. Melanies Gorgeousdoodles Puppies, my loving passion The first few months are very important for establishing good habits. It is always best to be prepared and read up on the best early training skills. Remember you have to train yourself and your family to be consistent! Here are some things you can do to help your Labradoodle pup feel as comfortable as possible. Teach children to always when hand feeding puppy dog a treat to do so with food in palm -of -their -hand. Many commercial foods are acceptable but be sure to choose a well-balanced one without any grians and no corn meal. Exercising doodle puppy Exercise is an important part of labradoodles overall health Puppy develops good motor skills and balance and life skills from being out and about. Playing games such as fetch challenge a puppy mentally. Remember, exercising helps puppy go poop so take a poop scoop. Rinse thoroughly and stand back — doodle will shake and shake! Grooming Brushing or combing with a wide tooth comb your Labradoodle regularly keeps his coat looking nice and it feels good to your doodle. And just as important, this is time for you puppy to bond. Important that you keep or have a groomer your doodle hair trimmed a little around their eyes, month and privates. There are lots of good book on dog training! Her website has a lot of excellent resources. Click to find link to order Virbac products for the best price. Fatigue Behavior changes loss of appetite, reluctance to engage, etc. If you notice any of these signs, make an appointment with your vet so they can perform screenings such as chest x-rays, blood tests, and an echocardiogram an ultrasound of the heart and nearby blood vessels to assess the issue. The condition can be serious if left untreated, but thankfully there are many treatment options available, such as diet therapy and medication. What To Feed a Labradoodle To live a long and happy life, Labradoodles must consume the proper amount of high-quality dog food and have access to fresh water. A balanced diet will help your pup maintain a healthy weight and avoid health conditions such as heart disease and hip dysplasia. If a pet parent is willing and able to cook for their dog, Whittenburg suggests a fresh, homemade diet that has been formulated by a board-certified veterinary nutritionist. Boutique brand and grain-free foods should be avoided. That includes servings of food in the right amount that provides more than 40 nutrients that pets require in their respective life stages, including proteins, fats, carbs, and vitamins, minerals, and independent amino acids, according to the Pet Food Institute. While there is no one-size-fits-all way to feed a Labradoodle and a consultation with your vet is recommended, Whittenburg says Labradoodle puppies under 6 months old should generally be fed a minimum of three times a day and adult dogs should be fed twice a day. Unless recommended by a veterinarian, dogs fed a complete and balanced commercial food diet should not need any nutritional supplements. However, Labradoodles that are fed a homemade diet may require supplements to ensure they are getting all the vitamins and minerals necessary to thrive, including omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids, glucosamine, and a variety of antioxidants. Behavior and Training Tips for Labradoodles Labradoodle Personality and Temperament The high-energy, attention-seeking, intelligent Labradoodle requires frequent exercise, interaction, and play. While every Labradoodle is different, proper socialization is a must for helping your dog become a well-behaved companion. These dogs are not known to be excessive barkers, but the right amount of training and exercise is required to ensure they learn to behave appropriately. Labradoodle Training Because Labradoodles are a hybrid of two highly intelligent breeds, they are eager to please and highly trainable, according to Philippou. They can be taught to excel at everything from basic tricks like sit, stay, and roll over to running agility courses. Always use positive-reinforcement techniques, like using treats to reward good behaviors, during training. Due to their gentle and sharp-witted nature, Labradoodles can even be trained to become service dogs. Fun Activities for Labradoodles. Training We Recommend: A Great Beginning: We start to train and work with our puppies from the first day, socializing as well as following the suggested guidelines of the best trainers in the US. We have a well researched program of using sounds, small tasks, toys and other materials to influence and help your puppy be an easy going, fun loving, social and well trained adult. Trainers tell us that the most important time for your puppy is between 8 and 11 weeks so we work with you to understand what you can do to continue to prepare your puppy for the world. Training: We recommend training your puppy as much as possible. The best puppies know their boundaries and are taught what is expected with love and devotion. The sooner your puppy is trained the sooner it is given more freedom. Therefore, strict training results in big rewards for puppy and owner. Labradoodles are easily trained. They should be completely potty trained within 4 to 6 weeks after pick up. Most are sitting, staying, shaking paws, and retrieving by 3 months of age, many can get the newspaper and more by then with proper attention. Puppies will jump up and it takes time and consistency to break this habit early. Crate training or room training is recommended: First I will cover crate training then room training. Crate Training: First get over the fact that to you it is a cage, to them it is a safe place when they are alone, safe from outside things and noises puppies have yet to become fearless of. They view it as their cave, a place they can sleep with the peace of mind. The crate should be just big enough for them to stand up, walk in a circle, and lay down. This is a different size at 8 weeks as it is at 4 months. Therefore I like something like the Life Stages Ultima Triple Door Folding Dog Crates from Petsmart where there is an additional wall that can be adjusted to increase the crate size as the puppy grows. It should contain toys. Bedding is typically used to pee on so do not use bedding until later once the dog can easily go all night without "going". I think the crate should be in a room, a selected safe room that later when the crate is no longer used becomes the place that when visitors come over who are not "dog people", the dog would stay in while these visitors are there. The first night the crate can be in a bedroom close to people and then later moved into the safe room if you desire. Some puppies pee in their crate at first and some don't, have patience. The point of the crate is to discourage peeing for a period of time. First crate the puppy for an hour or two and at night, then gradually longer. The point is to take the dog out before it has to go to the bathroom and as time goes by it can hold it longer and longer. Never more than 4 hours except at night when at first I recommend you get up twice during the night and let the puppy out, after two days wait and let the puppy out once in the middle of the night, gradually extend the wait time an hour until finally they have gone all night. After a few months I recommend graduating to room training. Remember to remove food and water an hour or more before leaving the dog in the crate, the puppy should be let outside and empty when left in the crate. Room Training: Select a safe room that when visitors come over who are not "dog people", the dog would stay while the visitors are there. For example, an extra bathroom or utility room. It should contain a wee pad if needed and toys. Bedding is typically used to pee on so do not use bedding until later. Some puppies pee in their space at first and some don't, have patience. This is the reason for the wee pad, see "wee pad" for how this is used and gradually removed. The point of the room is to discourage peeing for a period of time and keep them out of trouble. First confine the puppy for an hour or two and at night, then gradually longer. The room should be used up to a year when you are gone and at night. The sooner the puppy is trained and you can trust them the sooner they have free roam of the house. Remember to remove food and water an hour or more before leaving the dog, the puppy should be let outside and empty when left in the room. Wee pads: We put wee pads in the utility room when the puppies move into there, the wee pad is placed to one side. They have some chemical that draws the puppies.Take them out as much as possible; the point of the wee pad is an emergency situation only. Eventually they only use the wee pads at night. I suggest the wee pad be placed close to bed, in their "room" or at the back door in case someone doesn't notice them at the door. It works like this, and please don't punish them for using the wee pad but don't congratulate them either, congratulate them when they go outside. Eventually they select to please you versus the wee pad and then they just stop using the wee pad. When it is dry for a few days take it away.Food: We recommend free food and water all day if you are home. We use the best puppy food available. We do not feed people food to our dogs ever, some things you would never imagine are actually toxic listed below. When you pick up your puppy we give you a bag of food so you can continue it or mix it with whatever you desire slowly decreasing the amount of our food over time. But understand what you are feeding your dog. To find a good food read the first 5 ingredients on the bag. Now ask the following questions: What are the protein sources? We believe the primary source should come from quality animal protein, not vegetable protein or grain. Foods that list 2 or more grains in the first 5 ingredients may have more vegetable protein than animal protein. We prefer Chicken as the main ingredient. What about grains? Two or more grains listed in the first 5 ingredients means your food may have more vegetable protein than animal protein. Grains such as soy, corn, corn gluten and wheat gluten can be difficult to digest, which means less nutrition, possible allergic reactions and more clean up. Wheat, barley, rice, corn and oats are all man-raised crops that a dog would never eat in the wild. These ingredients are not properly digested and in many situations cause a dog to show allergy symptoms. Are there by-products? Some manufacturers consider by-products inferior sources of protein and, depending on the source, they can be difficult to digest. These ingredients contain meat sources that are typically unsuitable for human consumption. What are the fat sources? Some fats are better than others. We believe the primary fat source in dog food should be animal based because animal fats contain a profile of fatty acids that are easily metabolized and thus are generally more available to the body. White Are They Hypoallergenic? Dog breeds, like the Poodle, have been labelled hypoallergenic because they are low- or no-shedding. This is because some of the main allergens from the dog are in their saliva and transferred onto their coat through self-grooming. The hairs with saliva and the allergen spread throughout the house when dogs shed. Dogs actually have a number of proteins that humans can react to. Making elimination of these allergens impossible. With any dog, allergens will always be present, even if they are low-shedding. So, a Mini Labradoodle is not hypoallergenic. The best way to learn if a specific Miniature Doodle triggers your symptoms is to spend some time with them before bringing them home. Do Mini Labradoodles Shed? The amount your mix sheds will depend on which parent they take after. Mini Doodles with a hair coat will shed a lot, like the Labrador. Fleece and wool coats will be better at catching shedding fur before it falls through your house. But, a recent study in has found that the allergen levels in the coat of a hypoallergenic dog and in the home environment of these dogs are the same as that of shedding, non-hypoallergenic breeds. In fact, some public spaces and homes of non-pet owners about thirty-four percent tested positive for pet allergens. So, you will be exposed to at least some allergens, no matter what your dog, and how much they shed. Coat Care and Grooming Mini Labradoodles require at least a weekly brushing if they have a double-coat, like the Labrador parent. Poodle coats are more high-maintenance. They need daily brushing. This is because shed fur gets caught by their tight curls. This is a dog that would very much benefit from regular visits with a groomer! Mini Labradoodle Size So, is the full grown Mini Labradoodle size compact, like the Miniature Poodle parent, or medium-sized, like the Labrador parent? Based on the typical sizes of the Toy Poodle and Labrador, a full grown Mini Labradoodle will be 14 to 16 inches tall at the shoulder. The average weight of a Mini Labradoodle ranges from 15 to 25 pounds. Or at the high end of the spectrum at about 30 pounds. The best way to predict the size of your puppy is to take a look at the parents. This size becomes more easy to guess in second or third generation mixes, since the parents are more similar in size. Both parent breeds are intelligent, active, and people-oriented. So, a Miniature Labradoodle will likely be the same. They will form strong bonds with their families, and will often get along with other pets, especially if raised together. However, purebred Miniature Poodles can be shy around new people and other dogs. This may be why some people associate Poodles with biting and snappy behavior. Proper early socialization to people and other animals will prevent this. You should start socializing a Mini Labradoodle from when they are a puppy. Early training and socialization are important to help ensure a friendly and well-behaved pet. Once your dog is up to date on their vaccinations, they can join puppy kindergarten or obedience classes. This is an effective and fun way to both train them and get them to use to other dogs at the same time. Activity Levels The Mini Labradoodle comes from two active, working breeds. So, they need a lot of exercise, despite their smaller size. Be prepared to take this dog on lots of walks and to spend at least an hour of play time with them each day. Swimming can be another enjoyable activity for this breed. Having interactive dog toys for your Doodle will also help to keep both their bodies and minds stimulated. Keeping your dog occupied and entertained may help prevent them from getting into mischief. Mini Labradoodle Health The Mini Labradoodle is at risk of inheriting common breed health problems from either parent. The most likely conditions to be passed down are those prevalent in both the Labrador and the Miniature Poodle. But they can also be screened for by the breeder. A reputable breeder will not breed a dog that tests positive for these conditions. Ask your breeder to provide proof of testing for all recommended screenings for both breed parents. Other common problems that Miniature Labradoodles are at risk of include: Gastric Dilatation bloat. Follow this labradoodle puppy care guide to help with the transition. A few things you might want to have with you when you pick up your puppy are a bottle of water, some baby wipes, and a towel or a blanket. If you are meeting your puppy at the airport, your puppy may be thirsty from the trip. We put a frozen dish of water in the crate, but it is usually long gone by the time your puppy arrives. The wipes are needed in case the puppy may have soiled the crate. The towel or blanket also, in case the puppy has soiled the crate, is for you to hold your puppy or to put in the crate. Using a Leash to Bond with Your Puppy When your puppy first arrives to your home, we suggest you keep the puppy on a leash for the first couple of days. Do your best to have the primary caregiver be the main person handling the leash. We also suggest you not have outside visitors to the home for the first couple of days. Give your puppy some time to adjust to her new family first before she meets your world. Your puppy is going to be a little confused at her new surroundings. From the beginning your puppy needs to learn that she is at the bottom, below even the youngest child. She needs to learn who her main leaders are and what the boundaries are in her new home. Labradoodles are people loving dogs! Your puppy will want to bond. Your puppy is smart and will quickly learn that the person attached at the other end of the leash is important to her. Your Labradoodle will look to you for example and comfort. She will learn that you are her source of not only example and comfort, but also food! Using the leash these first few days will help your new puppy learn who to trust and who to please. Other Advantages of Leash Training Your New Puppy Even if you are not holding onto the leash, you can control where she goes easily by stepping on the dragging leash. This is much more comfortable to a dog than having you lunge over her to get her. Keeping her on a leash also allows you to monitor where your puppy is in the house, and help her learn which rooms you would like her to be in and where she is not allowed. Lastly, having her on a leash helps her adjust to the idea of a leash so that she is ready to be trained to heel on a leash. A crate can be a useful and comforting tool or it can be an overused source of misery for your puppy. We suggest using a crate for very short periods of time during the day and for your puppy to sleep in at night. During the day there will come short periods of time where you have a task to do that requires your full attention. While your puppy is still in the house training stage, the crate can be very valuable to you. By putting your puppy in the crate for short amounts of time during the day, say an hour, maybe two, you can accomplish what you must do and also help puppy control her bladder. As soon as you let her out, immediately take her outdoors to relieve herself. Using the crate this way will encourage her to only go to the bathroom where it is appropriate to go. If your puppy is not crate trained already, you will have to work up to the hour or two hour mark. By the time your puppy arrives, she should be able to sleep around 7 hours through the night in a crate. Of course all puppies are individuals and so the time can vary. Your Golden Xpress Labradoodle puppy is used to being in a crate, but she is also used to smelling and hearing her siblings nearby. She may have adjustments to make in her new home because of this. Another factor in labradoodle puppy care is that their little tummies often get upset over the first couple of weeks in their new homes. To help her adjust to your home atmosphere and sleeping during the night, keep her crate in your bedroom at night. Keeping your hand down by the wire door is comforting to her. Responding to her cries with talking or tapping encourages your puppy to cry and whine more. Tapping on the crate lightly is ok, but not in response to her noise making. Another thing to think about with regard to labradoodle puppy care is if your puppy starts to wet her crate, you need to first check and see if her crate is too big. Generally, dogs do not relieve themselves in their sleeping places. If so, either use a smaller crate or block part off with a box. If her crate seems the right size, you may need to take out anything like blankets or soft materials. When your puppy has successfully kept her crate dry for a couple of weeks, try putting the bedding back in. Feeding Your Puppy At first, your puppy will need to be fed 3 times a day. Once they have adjusted, offer food to them all day so they learn not to gorge at meal time, and always make sure your puppy has clean, fresh water available to her. Feed your puppy in a quiet place, free from distractions. Put a good amount of food in her bowl and let her eat as much as she would like. After about 20 minutes or so, remove the food. Repeat this morning, mid-day and evening. It helps keep teeth and gums in better shape than wet food does. DO NOT feed your puppy people food. Your food does not provide the nutrition that your puppy needs. She will choose to have the people food and not eat her own. Feed your dog people food and you will have one unhealthy puppy. Just make sure you choose high quality dog treats with some nutrition. At Golden Xpress Labradoodles we give our dogs and puppies different kinds of treats: dog biscuits, dog turkey or chicken jerky. The jerky is good for a training aid around the house — to teach the puppy to come or to sit, or down. They are very intelligent and very willing to learn, and this makes them easier to train. Just remember that they are puppies so be patient. Lots of Loves Above all labradoodle puppy care requires lots of love. Make sure you pet her and hold her so she knows she belongs to your family. Labradoodles are loyal, loving dogs — give your puppy your love and she will return it tenfold. Active and needs lots of exercises History Of The Breed The labradoodle has been around since the s as a mix of the Labrador retriever and a full-size poodle. This breed was developed to create dogs with the loyalty, intelligence, and trainability of the Labrador retriever, with the low shedding coat of the poodle. The loyalty and high intelligence of poodles made them a great personality match for a Lab as well. Despite being bred as companion dogs, standard poodles are actually pretty big. They are at least 15 inches tall and can weigh anywhere from 45 to 70 pounds. When you combine that with a Labrador, which is inches tall and can weigh 70 pounds, you get a pretty big dog. They tend to be around inches tall and can weigh pounds. They are dogs that take up quite a bit of space! Of course, you can get a smaller labradoodle by breeding a Lab with a miniature or a toy poodle. This is not as easy to do as there can be a huge size difference between the pure-bred parents, but some breeders have been working for several generations to gradually reduce the size of their labradoodle pups. Mini Labradoodle Appearance There is still quite a bit of size difference between the miniature Labradoodles that you can get from a breeder; they can weigh anything from 15 to 30 pounds, and most will measure somewhere between 14 and 16 inches tall. The appearance of miniature Labradoodles can be more predictable than that of standard Labradoodles as they are usually bred from two labradoodle parents, rather than directly from the parent breeds. They will almost certainly have the low-shedding coat of a poodle since this is one of the principal traits that is controlled for. They could have a wool coat that needs daily brushing to release hair that gets caught up in the wiry texture or a fleece coat that is wavy. These may shed slightly more, but this coat is easy to care for. They can vary significantly in color since poodles come in a variety of colors, unlike Labradors which are yellow, black, or chocolate. They can be apricot, black, blue, brown, cream, gray, red, silver, silver-beige, or white. They may also be bicolor, though this is relatively rare. Temperament Labradoodles are highly intelligent dogs. Both Labradors and poodles are considered among the most intelligent breeds and can learn a new command with as few as five repetitions. Their offspring will certainly inherit this intelligence. Labradors are also highly trainable because they are eager to please and love having something to do! They are also reward-driven. This means that mini Labradoodles will be highly trainable as well. Both parent breeds love people and tend to form tight attachments with their families quickly. They are also pretty relaxed with strangers and are more likely to want to make friends than raise the alarm when someone shows up at the door. This is one of the reasons that they make excellent guide dogs or other working dogs. You should always pay attention when your miniature labradoodle starts barking. They can be a bit more standoffish with other pets, but socialization from a young age can teach them to make friends. You should take the time to introduce new pets into the home and let them get to know each other from a distance first when dealing with these dogs. Because both parent breeds love being around people, so do their miniature Lab children. They can become highly stressed and even develop depression. It is also common for them to become destructive when they feel frustrated. Since they are highly intelligent pups, they need a lot of mental stimulation. Teaching them tricks can be a great way to activate their minds, and puzzle toys can keep them distracted for a while, though they tend to figure things out pretty quickly. Be warned that they are also excellent escape artists, so all escape routes from the house need to be secured. Labradoodles love children and instinctively know how to be careful and protective of them. Of course, you should never leave children unattended with any dog for the safety of both, but a miniature labradoodle will love playing with kids, and the two high-energy forces can work to wear one another out. Activity Levels Despite their smaller size, miniature Labradoodles need almost as much exercise as their larger labradoodle cousins. They need at least an hour of active exercise each day, preferably split into two 30 minute periods. In addition to formal exercise, they do best when they have some outdoor space at home that they can potter around in and use to let off a bit of energy throughout the day. Nothing will make these dogs happier than accompanying the family on hikes and other adventures. Thanks to their Lab parent they also love the water and tend to be excellent swimmers. Health Concerns A miniature labradoodle may live as little as 10 or as long as 18 years, which can be very difficult to predict, but you should expect your canine companion to be with you for quite some time. While they are generally healthy dogs, they can be predisposed to a few health conditions that pet parents should be aware of. The first is gastric dilation, which is basically bloating. Gaining weight can be an immediate sign of this, but it wreaks havoc with many of their systems. This is another good reason to watch what you feed them, and consult your vet about relevant medication. These collapses can be life-threatening, so it is important to monitor your dog during exercise and rein them in if they show any sign of muscle weakness or lack of coordination. Consult your vet for long-term treatment. This can also be a sign of centronuclear myopathy, which is not unknown in this breed. Hip dysplasia can be another common issue, which is exacerbated if you overexercise your dog as a puppy. Restrict exercise until they are fully grown to ensure against abnormal growth. Eye conditions including cataracts and progressive retinal atrophy are also pretty common, but most breeders should be screening for this. How To Find A Mini Labradoodle Puppy Labradoodles are a popular breed, so there are many active breeders, but finding one who specializes in miniature Labradoodles can be more challenging. Thankfully, there is a big community that loves this type of dog so there are many forums where you can ask around and get advice. Having read our guide to the miniature labradoodle, are you considering whether you should adopt one? Consider the following to make your final decision. This can lead to destructive frustration and serious depression. They do best in households when there is nearly always someone about, or when they can go to work with you. Their good behavior and low shedding mean that they are good dogs to take with you to other places. You also need to take the time to train these dogs, as they need lots of mental stimulation to keep them entertained. Are you willing to commit the time to their development? Despite their small size, these are high-energy dogs. As well as formal exercise, they will love joining you on weekend adventures and would rather be on the trail than sitting in front of the TV watching Netflix with you. Do you have the type of lifestyle that your dog will enjoy? Do You Have Kids? Miniature labradoodles are great with kids and they know how to both be protective and play gently. The key is to teach children how to treat dogs gently as well. They might not be the best fit for very young families just because they have lots of energy and need lots of attention. It can be a challenge to juggle the needs of young children and an energetic young pup at the same time. There are, however, lots of things to look out for to make sure these pups stay healthy and happy. They will bark during play or if they want to get your attention, but excessive barking is uncommon and is normally something that you should pay attention to. Do labradoodles chew furniture? Find our recommendations for the best puppy chew toys here. Can mini labradoodles be left alone? These dogs should not be left at home repeatedly for long workdays, though. These dogs do best when they have company for most of the day. Do labradoodles bond with one person? All dogs have a tendency to bond more strongly with one person than everyone else. This is usually their principal caregiver, but they have big hearts with room for everyone in the family, plus most of the strangers they meet. The miniature labradoodle is a smaller version of the original labradoodle that can do better in smaller family homes; however, they still have the same high energy and need at least some outdoor space to call their own. If you have always wanted a labradoodle, but resisted adopting one because of its size, the miniature labradoodle might be exactly the dog you are looking for. Do you have experience with miniature Labradoodles? Share your thoughts with the community in the comments section below. Helps ease anxiety in their new home. We love using Bully Sticks to help divert these unwanted behaviors. Check out more of our favorites on our New Puppy Checklist. Colby Colby Morita has been raising and training guide and service dog puppies for over 13 years. Colby has been writing to the PuppyInTraining. Labradoodle puppy care is something we can help you with! SCL has been breeding and raising Labradoodles since .Our opinion is that puppies should be raised with the sights and sounds of a typical home from day one, since it is typical homes our puppies go to. They should be exposed to as many varied sights and sounds as possible. Our puppies are born in our bedroom. A quiet and safe environment for mama to feel secure in is extremely important. A stressed mama releases stress hormones and her milk is affected, which affects babies. The stress hormones pour through the milk to babies resulting in higher stressed dogs as they mature. It is amazing how stress can negatively impact the development of puppies in so many different ways. We do not allow other dogs into the room, or other people into the room. A mama feeling a threat will quickly jump up and can unintentionally step on and harm, or kill, a newborn puppy. All of these reasons and more are why our pups are born away from the traffic of the rest of the house and in a place mama can relax in and feel safe in. We weigh them daily, check their identifying tags, change bedding, clip nails, etc. Just enough handling that they become used to us, but not so much that they are put under negative stress. Once puppies are about weeks old, we move them from our bedroom to our puppy nursery. The sights and sounds puppies are exposed to increase, but we are still able to control the degree of stress to mama and not have her and babies right in the middle of where people are coming and going through the main part of our home. Like most families, we have people in and out all the time, but we do not want mama feeling strangers are a threat, and we do not want visitors feeling they can handle puppies just because they are in the middle of our home. We control the exposure puppies have at this age and introduce them to things carefully. We want every experience to be a positive one. We want our puppies to be safe from disease and bacteria others may bring into our home. Around 4 weeks, they are introduced to a potty box, they begin eating mush, and they have much more people interaction with our family members or friends that have been taught how to properly handle a puppy, so the experience is positive for the puppy. They are exposed to a variety of musical instruments, as we are a musical family. They hear the radio, sometimes a movie on t. We begin introducing little slides and toys and rotate out daily. At about weeks of age, puppies begin being introduced to the great outdoors. We have a wonderful outdoor play yard with artificial turf, play toys, wading pools, and a variety of toys. Pups experience all sorts of new textures under foot, and have room to run and play. They are introduced to crates without doors and quickly learn to love them as a safe place. When weather does not allow for outdoor play, pups have a 12 x 12 indoor play area with much of the same types of toys and structures. During this time their exposure to outdoor things begins. Lawn mowers, goats, horses, cars, cats, chickens, etc. They are taken for walks in a puppy stroller. They visit the vet office. We increase their level of exposure as is positive for them and do everything we can to make sure they are well adjusted, relaxed, happy puppies. In general, we follow a raising and socialization program designed to slowly increase the exposure and stress to puppy as they are able to cope with it in a positive way. Our goal is to provide families with puppies that have had the best start in life that we can possibly give them. Once they leave our care, it is necessary for families to be committed to continuing this positive exposure and socialization. The next few months are just as critical as the first two. Build on the foundation we started and you will end up with one of the most rewarding experiences and relationships with your dog. This video on our YouTube channel visually walks you through all the things you need to prepare for your new puppy. What should you be doing for your puppy once he has joined your family to ensure you are providing the environment necessary to help your puppy be an outstanding companion? At Spring Creek, we are very careful to provide the appropriate socialization and experiences while raising each litter. It is up to every family to continue the careful raising of their puppy during the following critical periods after the puppy has left us. This document is a great resource for understanding what happens as a puppy develops. It is very important to understand that the risk of parvo is much less than the risk of ending up with a puppy with very serious socialization issues that result in families choosing to give up their dogs later or even have them euthanized due to extreme fear and fear aggression issues. A few of the large guide dog organizations have done studies on the risks of parvo versus the risks of poor socialization and found the risk of parvo to be extremely low compared to fear and aggression issues that resulted from well intentioned people keeping their puppies secluded and isolated until vaccinations were completed. We do not encourage keeping your pup isolated, and we DO encourage as much safe socialization as you can find with your puppy in meeting other people and other dogs. That is a wonderful and rewarding experience, but it does require a lot of work as well as require understanding what you need to allow and need to do in order to prevent problems from developing. This includes testing your children. How can you help your puppy and children get along and help your children know what is appropriate handling of a puppy? The info below is invaluable and every family with a child that wants to adopt a puppy should read these pages as well as talk about these things regularly with your children. If you are not supervising your children with your puppy, or if you are not requiring your children to handle puppy appropriately, you are almost certain to have issues develop. He grabs your pants and hangs on while growling. He growls when you try to take something from him. And, you start to wonder if he was the dominant one in the litter. You are sure you are doing everything right and that there is just something wrong with your puppy. ALL puppies growl, nip, and bite. If children are involved in your home, you should not expect a puppy to respect your child, and it will be up to YOU to supervise and make sure you intervene if a puppy growls or nips at your child. Children are not capable of correcting a puppy in an appropriate manner, and if you tell your child to correct puppy, you will likely make the problem worse. Since puppy knows your child does not have the same authority as you do, they will almost certainly react to being corrected by them and growl or nip or bite even more. They see your children as equals and they are treating them as they would another puppy in their litter. Why would you expect anything different from your puppy? He is not a stuffed animal and he does have a mind of his own. Like your teenage child, a juvenile puppy wants to explore their limits and it can be frustrating. Growling and nipping that is part of the normal communication process for a puppy CAN turn into very concerning behaviors if you do not know how to communicate with them properly. How to train properly using rewards and keeping training fun. Understand methods for correcting behavior that will not result in your puppy challenging you further. Always have a calm and confident attitude. If you have read this and are concerned you may not know how to properly deal with normal growling and nipping, then you need to get professional help involved with you and your puppy as soon as puppy is in your home. If you do not, then look for another trainer immediately. Not all are created equal and a trainer who knows what they are doing will absolutely be able to help you train your puppy, identify problems, and know how to resolve them when they come up. We personally highly recommend hiring a behaviorist to help you with training, not just a normal dog trainer. There is a BIG difference between a trainer and a behaviorist and their knowledge is extremely helpful and useful, especially when it comes to working with normal, but problematic behaviors. All foods are not created equal. Many of the ingredients used in dog foods are fillers that have been shown to be the very reason that so many pets are developing diseases that shorten their life span or make their quality of life less than desirable. Do you really want to feed your dog these foods? We have researched dog foods, and have found that there are companies using high quality, holistic ingredients. Foods that are not made with fillers and poor quality ingredients, but foods that will contribute to helping your dog live a long and healthy life. Also, the Dog Food Advisor online reviews dog foods and is an excellent resource to utilize. The cost of a quality food may initially seem high, but remember that you are feeding less than you would if you were purchasing a cheap grocery store food as their system absorbs more of the food and they eat less, which also results in smaller stools. Your dog is a loved family member and deserves to be fed a quality food that will keep him in good health for a very long time. There are a couple of foods on our recommended list for you to consider feeding your puppy. Three brands are available from privately owned local stores as well as can usually be ordered online. All the below foods are from companies that do not have recall histories, have fabulous food reviews from owners and independent dog food review sources, focus on fresh, quality ingredients, and have years of history proving their reliability, safety, and commitment to providing a quality product. We try to keep this list updated with cost breakdown, but prices vary a bit depending on where you purchase, so the prices below may be slightly different than what you find in a storefront or online store as things change constantly. Our preferred quality, all natural puppy food that does NOT contain chicken, beef, fish, wheat, corn, soy, etc. They frequently have intro discounts and if you set up a couple products on auto-ship you get free shipping! Our preferred adult dog food! Does not contain chicken, beef, fish, wheat, corn, soy, etc. When you receive a puppy from us, our recommendation is to continue feeding the food that puppy is accustomed to for at least a couple of weeks. After a few weeks, changing to another food doing a slow transition at least 7 days is completely fine. Please feed a food that does not contain the ingredients below. These are common sources of allergy, digestive, or other health issues for dogs.

These two breeds are very entertaining and love to please their owners. Both breeds are such clowns and are very comical. Very small in size but with the heart of any big dog. Both breeds are very loving and will have you laughing for days. They are such clowns and love the attention. We occasionally will produce other colors such as brindles, creams, whites and other colors also. Most of our frenchies are of Russian and Hungarian decent. We love these babies as if they were our own kids so producing a healthy sound pup is our main goal. All pups will be checked by a certified vet before being transported to its new loving home. They are all AKC registered coming from some of the best bloodlines sought after today. We strive to pair our clients with their perfect doggie sole mate. By owning and caring for our own babies we know the connection and joy that frenchies give to their new parents. All pups come with a 1 year health guarantee against any life threatening illness. We have a very strict breeding program and all breedings are strategically planed with genotype and phenotype in mind. We mainly produce dilutes blues dd, but we also produce on occasion chocolates bb pups also. Financing Finance Your Pet Today! Financing is available for our valued puppy parents! We partnered up with Lending USA to provide this incredible financing option available to just about everyone! The secure application is provided by Lending USA and your decision is emailed in less than business days. This can be a great way to buy your new bulldog puppy today and spread the payments out over time! Questions about Bulldog puppies for sale in Atlanta GA? We have answers. How much are Bulldog puppies for sale in Atlanta GA? Atlanta Bulldog breeders will choose what price to charge for each pup by taking into account a few factors. The markings and coat color of each pup will play a part, as will their eye color. Rarer combinations will cost more. The price of any Bulldog for sale in Dallas will also depend on the reputation, location, and experience of their breeder. What if there are no Bulldog breeders in Atlanta right now? Once you find your dream pup, you can start making travel arrangements - so before you know it you could be meeting your new doggo at your local major airport! How do you screen Bulldog breeders Atlanta? What makes Uptown Puppies different to other networks with Bulldog puppies Atlanta? We know that not every business puts the health of their pups and parent dogs above their profit. We refuse to work with businesses like that. Our goal at Uptown was to create a network that showcases the most reputable companies with the best Atlanta Bulldog puppies for sale - making it easy for you to find your dream pup. What are puppy mills, exactly? These are horrible places that often place more importance on money than the welfare of their dogs. The result is often sickly puppies who are at high risk of developing serious health conditions as they grow up. Their lack of proper socialization often also results in behavioral issues too. Are there any Bulldog puppies for sale Atlanta now? Thanks to the fact that Bulldogs consistently rank as one of the most popular breeds in the US, you shouldn't have any trouble finding Atlanta Bulldogs for sale at Uptown. Start your search now and prepare to be blown away by the sheer wrinkly cuteness of the Bulldogs for sale Atlanta from the recommended businesses on Uptown. What sort of dogs are Bulldogs? Bulldogs were first bred to both drive cattle and take part in a bloody sport known as bull-baiting which is thankfully now banned. These stocky dogs were tough and hard working. Nowadays, a Bulldog is more likely to choose a nap on the couch over physical activity! While they still maintain a streak of bravery, these days an Atlanta Bulldog for sale is better known for their kind natures and loyal hearts. This breed absolutely loves people, and is never happier than when spending plenty of time with their humans. How big do Bulldogs get? Height-wise, a Bulldog Atlanta will be considered a medium sized breed. They mature to stand around inches high at the shoulder. Weight-wise though, they are pretty chunky! These pups can end up weighing up to 50 pounds. Are Bulldogs easy to train? They definitely are!

Although a playful pup sounds endearing, consider how many games of fetch or tag you want to play each day, and whether you have kids or other dogs who can stand in as playmates for the dog. Click here for more information on this characteristic Goldador Overview The idea was to create a working dog with the sensitivity of the Golden Retriever and the tolerance of the Labrador Retriever. It worked. Cross them, and the result is the unequivocally genial Goldador. Thanks to their easygoing nature and keen intelligence, Goldadors have proven outstanding guide dogs, service dogs, search and rescue dogs, therapy dogs, and bomb detection dogs. But like their parent breeds, Goldadors are happiest simply working alongside a person they love. Goldadors are active and require at least half an hour of daily exercise — most enjoy retrieving games as well as hiking and swimming. Training the eager-to-please Goldador is relatively easy — they come from a long line of dogs who work closely and willingly with people. This makes them an excellent choice for first-time owners, provided they get the exercise, structure, and positive reinforcement they crave. Goldadors are also a good option for families with children though they can be a bit rambunctious for toddlers , as they want nothing more than to be part of family activities. The ideal residence for a Goldador is a home with a fenced yard, but with regular exercise and companionship they can live and thrive in apartments and condos. Whatever his home, a Goldador should live indoors with his people. Goldadors are good family dogs and generally do well with children of all ages. The Goldador sheds moderately and requires weekly brushing. Goldadors require about 30 minutes of exercise per day. They enjoy being outdoors and can make excellent jogging companions. Although a house with a fenced yard is the ideal home for a Goldador, he can do well in an apartment or condo with proper exercise. Goldadors can be a good choice for first-time dog owners. Goldador History The Goldador was first developed more than a decade ago: the Labrador Retriever and the Golden Retriever were crossed with the hopes of creating a sensitive, tolerant working dog. The effort proved successful. At this time, there are no breed clubs or any efforts to create a breed standard for the Goldador. Goldador Size The Goldador is one of the few designer breeds with a fairly predictable size, as both parent breeds are large and similar in size and shape. The Goldador is usually 22 to 24 inches tall at the shoulder and weighs 60 to 80 pounds. Goldador Personality The Goldador is affectionate and loyal, alert enough to make an excellent watchdog, but too friendly to be an effective guard dog. His intelligence and desire to please render him highly trainable, and he responds best to positive reinforcement techniques. Socialization helps ensure that your Goldador puppy grows up to be a well-rounded dog. Goldador Health Goldadors are prone to certain health conditions. Some dogs show pain and lameness on one or both rear legs, but you may not notice any signs of discomfort in a dog with hip dysplasia. As the dog ages, arthritis can develop. Hip dysplasia is hereditary, but it can be worsened by environmental factors, such as rapid growth from a high-calorie diet or injuries incurred from jumping or falling on slick floors. Elbow Dysplasia is a heritable condition common to large-breed dogs. This can lead to painful lameness. Your vet may recommend surgery to correct the problem, or medication and weight loss to control the pain. Cataracts are an opacity on the lens of the eye that causes difficulty in seeing. The eye s of the dog will have a cloudy appearance. Diabetes mellitus is a disorder in which the body cannot regulate blood sugar levels. Blood sugar levels are regulated in part by insulin, which is produced in the pancreas. Glucose sugar is needed by the cells of the body to burn for energy; insulin is the key that lets the glucose into the cell. Without insulin, the glucose cannot enter the cell, so the cells are hungry even though there are high levels of glucose circulating in the blood. A diabetic dog will eat more food to try to compensate, but he will lose weight because food is not being used efficiently. Signs of diabetes are excessive urination and thirst, increased appetite, and weight loss. Diabetes can be controlled by diet and daily insulin injections. Progressive Retinal Atrophy PRA : This is a degenerative eye disorder that eventually causes blindness from the loss of photoreceptors at the back of the eye. PRA is detectable years before the dog shows any signs of blindness. Fortunately, dogs can use their other senses to compensate for blindness, and a blind dog can live a full and happy life. Both parents should have health clearances from the Orthopedic Foundation for Animals for hips, elbows, heart, and thyroid and from the Canine Eye Registry Foundation CERF certifying that the eyes are normal. Goldador Care The ideal home for a Goldador is a house with a fenced yard where he can play safely; however, he can do well in an apartment or condo if he gets daily walks or runs. Interested in dog sports? Goldadors make formidable competitors in agility and flyball. Mental stimulation is crucial as well. Teach your Goldador to fetch the paper or your slippers, practice obedience training regularly with him, and put his mind to work from time to time with an interactive dog toy. As with all dogs, positive reinforcement techniques praise, play, and food rewards work best with the Goldador. Goldador Feeding Recommended daily amount: 3. Note: How much your adult dog eats depends on his size, age, build, metabolism, and activity level. It almost goes without saying that a highly active dog will need more than a couch potato dog. For more on feeding your Goldador, see our guidelines for buying the right food , feeding your puppy , and feeding your adult dog. Goldador Coat Color And Grooming A Goldador should have the same double coat as a Labrador Retriever, with a short, thick, straight topcoat and a soft, dense undercoat some have a slight wave down the back. Weekly brushing with a rubber curry brush will remove dead hair, helping to keep it off your clothes and furniture. During seasonal shedding periods, however, daily brushing is recommended. Bathe your Goldador as needed, and be sure to give him a thorough freshwater rinse any time he goes swimming. The Goldador can be prone to ear infections, so check and clean the ears weekly. Other grooming needs include dental hygiene and nail care. Trim his nails once or twice a month, as needed. Handle his paws frequently — dogs are touchy about their feet — and look inside his mouth and ears. Goldador Children And Other Pets Goldadors are an ideal family companion and are generally gentle and loving toward children of all ages. As puppies, they can be a bit rambunctious and may knock over smaller children unintentionally, so close supervision is important. Social and easy-going, Goldadors do well with other dogs and pets, especially when raised together. Always teach children how to approach and touch dogs, and always supervise any interactions between dogs and young children to prevent any biting or ear or tail pulling on the part of either party. No dog, no matter how good-natured, should ever be left unsupervised with a child. Goldador Rescue Groups There are no official rescue groups for the Goldador, but this cross is frequently available at private and municipal animal shelters. More Info For You. Andorra and Spain Hmmm, my concern is that if you're asking that question, then you're probably not in quite the right place for breeding just yet. It's not something that should ever be taken lightly and breeding for colour is never a good idea. To answer your specific question, it depends entirely on the genetics of the two dogs. Let's say you were breeding together two Labs. If you look at the chart on this page , you can see there are six possible combinations for mating a yellow Lab with a chocolate Lab. The shade of the coat doesn't have anything to do with which of the base colours will come out. You could end up with a litter that are all black, a litter that are all chocolate or some other combination that can include all three colours. It depends on the two dogs' genetics. When you're mixing two breeds together, it's a whole lot less predictable. In goldens, I assume you normally only have yellow genes, although the odd black allele will pop up from time to time, throwing a black GR. But how that would demonstrate when combined with the Labrador genes is beyond my knowledge. I would guess that, since the Lab bitch is chocolate and therefore not carrying any black genes, the pups would likely be a mix of yellow and chocolate, but that's only a hunch. This means doing a full panel of all the potential diseases that could affect either breed. Good luck with your decision. They are a crossbreed from both a Golden Retriever and a Labrador Retriever parent. And were originally created to inherit the sweet and sensitive characteristics of the Golden Retriever as well as the high level of tolerance shown by the Labrador Retriever. Putting all these together we get the Goldador. In helping us understand the history of this designer breed, we would need to do a brief history of its parents, so here we go. For a long time, these dogs were bred in Scotland to be the perfect Sporting dog. A few years later, their popularity began to grow and we began to see the healthy breed in hunting circles and show rings held in the United States. The Golden Retriever is quite friendly and is oftentimes described as very Intelligent, loyal and hardworking. They were originally bred as fisherman dogs and possess a high swimming ability. They are quite energetic, outgoing, and friendly and require a lot of exercise to contain their level of energy levels. However, there are some organizations and breed registries that recognize the Labrador Retriever and Golden Retriever breed mix as a dog breed. Goldador Temperament Golden Retriever Yellow Lab Mix When it comes to temperament, we can truly tell they are the Offspring of the Golden Retriever and Labrador Retriever as they are all excellent family and companion dogs. The Goldador is quite loyal and clingy so do prepare to spend a lot of your time with your furry little friend. The Goldador is the kind of breed that could jump on the sofa and snuggle with their owners all day long, they are that sweet. Have you ever spotted a dog that is both calm and energetic? They also require lots of exercises daily to deal with their excess energy. Try mixing the exercises between physical and mental to make for a balanced routine. Remember their calm nature? This beautiful blend of both calm and energetic makes them very adaptable, so they fit in perfectly with whatever family they are with. Their eagerness to please also serves as an advantage to this breed, as your favorite thing, could easily become theirs too. It measures a very high .The Goldador weighs as much as 60 to 80 pounds and this is on average. The Goldador is also slightly more athletic and stockier than its parents and its shorter coat makes it more pronounced. It has a tail that could both be straight and thick or slender and long like its Labrador a Retriever and Golden Retriever parents. It has very adorable round large eyes that could easily bait you into getting its own way and a large nose just like its parents. Generally, when it comes to size, it is similar to both its parents. Now, this heavily affects what kind of color a Goldador would have. For a Goldador that looks more like its Labrador Retriever parent, the coat color could be either black, yellow, or chocolate popular Labrador Retriever coat colors. Goldadors from unique colored parents like the English Cream Golden Retriever or the Fox red Labrador Retriever or maybe even a Silver Labrador Retriever could come out with a more unique colored coat. However, they all shed the same and should be groomed the same way. But generally, he does shed, so if you are allergic t excess dog hair, the Goldador might not be the dog for you. Something cool about the Goldadors double coat is the fact that it is waterproof and water-resistant, so your Goldador could definitely survive cold climates. Goldadors could also survive warm climates, you just have to provide enough shed for them to remain cool. Goldador Grooming As we have already established early in the article, the Goldador has a beautiful double coat that is dense and moderately sheds throughout the year and heavily sheds during the shedding season. When compared to the Golden Retriever, the Goldador sheds pretty much the same frequency. So I highly recommend you brush your Goldadors coat at regular intervals several times a week throughout the year and during the shedding season, I recommend you brush their coat every day. The Goldador might look like they shed more than their parent at times, but this is oftentimes not true as they all shed about the same frequency. For your daily brushing, I advise you use a pin brush or a slicker brush for better reach. For the shedding season, you might need a de-shedding tool. Yes, it does seem a bit of an overkill but you would be spending a lot of time grooming your Goldador during the Shedding season. Not only does it help keep your Goldadors Coat healthy, but It could also help you in saving hours of cleaning and vacuuming plus you and your furry friend could enjoy a lot of bonding time together. I also recommend you bathe your Goldador Once every 8 to 12 weeks, no more no less as you risk damaging your Goldadors fur coat oils if you bathe him more frequently than that. Also, regularly check your Goldadors for changes in their eyes or bodies. You can check them for lumps or any other irregularities. Make it a habit to perform other grooming habits such as dental brushings and nail clippings just like you would do any other dog. Clean your Goldadors ears are they are quite prone to ear infections. Try to make the experience of grooming your Goldador a positive one filled with lots of rewards and praise as this could help lay the foundation for easy vet exams in the future. Black Lab Golden Retriever Mix. Mamba at 7 months old. Like its parents, the Goldador is highly trainable. With a perfect mix of high intelligence, incredible loyalty to his owner, and an eagerness to please, the Goldador makes an easy dog to train. This is often why they are considered service and therapy dogs. Still, just like its Labrador Retriever and Golden Retriever parents, a lot of hard work would be required to get a perfectly trained Goldador pooch. One of the best and basically the most effective way to get a perfectly trained Goldador would be through positive reinforcement. This would involve setting some basic rules for your Goldador, being consistent with enforcing these rules, and then rewarding your Goldador with its favorite treat as an appraisal for good behavior. Thinking of what kind of treats to reward your Goldador? Well, it most likely would respond to edible treats, but object rewards like a chew toy or tennis ball could prove to be very effective. However, opting to ignore or correct its manners in a subtle but firm way does the trick. Luckily, you do not need to be a professional or expert to train your Goldador, as their natural gentle disposition and high intelligence make training them a lot easier. If what you are looking for is an obedient crossbreed, then the Goldador might be the best breed for you. They are quite loyal as stated earlier and could very easily pick up verbal commands. I recommend you crate train your Goldador while as a pup as they hate to be left all alone. I advise you set up a crate that it could make its own before bringing it to your home. This is quite beneficial to you as it helps your Goldador deal with any anxiety it might have when you eventually have to leave the house, it also helps keep your Goldador away from your furniture, should it ever choose to get revenge for leaving it wink. In addition to training your Goldador, I also recommend you properly socialize them. Yes I know, we stated that the Goldador has a nice and sweet temperament, especially around visitors and other strangers, but as we also established, they do get anxious pretty quick leading to them barking for no reason. So, socializing your Goldadors while as pups are very much required for a wonderful experience with your dog. Now that we have established how easy it is to train your Goldador, exercising them is another aspect you definitely should consider as important. The Goldador would require a minimum of 60 minutes dedicated to intense exercises daily. If however, you find that you cannot commit to such a high level of activity, then I advise you a hire a dog walker or get a different breed because exercising your Goldador is non-negotiable. It matures soon enough to a very energetic pooch. Puppy Goldadors do not require as much intense exercise as adult Goldadors would. You should try as much as possible to reduce and protect the level of impact on their joints while they develop. So for your pups, I advise you stick to walking your dogs and swimming. Maybe later on, as they get older, they could become excellent frisbee catchers, jogging partners, or participants in an agility course. The Goldador, as we have stated before is very intelligent, as such, just taking your dog on walks is not enough, as it could easily become boring. So always vary its exercise plan. Taking your dog to the local park to play with its friend or regular swimming could be very advantageous to them. Your dog would also require lots of doggy playtime in the yard, as it would be helpful in keeping their brain stimulated. Now you could either join your Goldador in this mentally stimulating fun playtime or provide your dog with lots of doggy toys to engage with. As a family dog, the Goldador would most likely be a perfect choice. All you need to do is provide it with enough exercise and company. So whether you are a retired couple or a young and vibrant family, the Goldador would easily adapt and become the best companion for you. The Goldador also gets along with other pets and animals quite easily. Animals such as dogs, cats, and other large animals. Do not keep your Goldadors close to ducks, they hail from retrievers after all, and ducks are their innate prey. So if you reside near the waters, do keep your Goldadors on a tight leash most especially during duck season. Feeding Requirements for the Goldador The Golden Retriever and Lab mix has a very large appetite and can be quite greedy with its kibble so do ensure you control this appetite. Make sure you feed your kibble with only 3 to 4 cups of good quality kibble a day. Feed your Goldador with a small feeding bowl to encourage the eating slowly. Also, add a bowl of water to the side, so your Goldador stays hydrated and fresh. Ensure that only the best kibble is gotten for your Goldador but of course, do work with your budget , as this would provide it with just the right amount of nutrients it would require to be a healthy and equally happy dog. This is quite important for a large breed dog like the Goldador as they could grow quickly in a short time frame. According to research, feeding your Goldador such high-quality kibble can help reduce the chance of getting any joint-related condition like elbow and hips dysplasia which is quite common in the Goldador breed. Also, the Goldador could eat any dog feed made specifically for the Golden Retriever or the Labrador Retriever. It is also highly important that you feed your Goldador with kibble that is appropriate to their age range. For example, feed a puppy Goldador with puppy suited kibble and an adult Goldador with adult suited kibble. And I know the beautiful large round eyes of the Goldador could be quite adorable to look at, it is highly important you do not overfeed your Goldador. A fat Goldador is both unhealthy and expensive. Keep all human and doggy food away from the reach of your Goldador and if you must then, I advise you to switch to only weight management kibble instead. In addition, make sure you follow the instructions on the packaging you must feed your Goldador with commercially produced foods. Some of the things I strongly kick against you feeling your kibble would include; Chocolate, tea or coffee, poultry bones, raisins or grapes, onions, garlic, chives, yeast dough, salty foods, unripe fruits, and of course never feed your Goldador beer, wine liquor or alcohol in general. Goldador Health Naturally, the Goldador is blessed with good health. However, there are a few health conditions that its Golden Retriever and Labrador Retriever parents suffer from and sadly the Goldador inherits these health concerns. I do recommend you get decent knowledge of these concerns so you could easily be on the lookout for their symptoms. Now if the COI of a dog breed is high then the chances of getting a health risk from inbreeding also get high. The Goldador would most likely inherit health risks and conditions that both parents suffer from. These health risks would include eye conditions, hips, and elbows dysplasia, Gastric Torsion, Exercise Induced Collapse, and sadly, cancer. Eye Conditions Sadly, the Goldador could inherit a variety of eye conditions from both Golden Retriever and Labrador Retriever parents. Now when this happens, your Goldador would be in severe pain or could experience lameness on one or even both hind legs. Sadly you might not notice any other signs of discomfort on your Goldador if it suffers from Hip dysplasia. Over time, the Goldador could develop arthritis. I recommend you perform an X-ray screening for detecting hip dysplasia. As we already established, Hip dysplasia is inherited, but some other factors like environmental factors could worsen the condition. Some factors like injuries from jumping or rapid growth from eating a high-calorie diet. Elbow Dysplasia This is another inherited health condition prone to Goldador or other large dog breeds. This causes laxity in the bones or bone laxity. It is also quite painful and can further lead to lameness. If your Goldaddor suffers from Elbow dysplasia, then you might need to take it to a well-trained and licensed vet for surgery so as to correct the health problem. Medication could also be used, but it is only used to reduce the pain, as well as weight loss. Gastric Torsion Gastric Torsion or Bloat is quite common in most large dog breeds, it is, however, a life-threatening condition and if you discover your Goldador suffers from bloating, I highly and urgently recommend you take it to a licensed vet. This condition occurs when the stomach of the Goldador twists and could be avoided by not feeding your Goldador immediately before exercise or immediately after exercise. You are advised to spread their meals across various sittings so as to avoid a large meal. It is a condition which causes your Goldador to collapse after an intense exercise section. It is quite common in puppies so do watch out for signs in your Goldador pup. Cancer The Golden Retriever parent of the Goldador usually suffers from cancer. It is very severe and brings with it a high mortality rate. Your best bet would be to work with a breeder whose dogs have had zero experiences with cancer in the past. It is highly important that you screen or choose a breeder that screens for these health risks listed above as they could be the deciding factor in the quality of experience you enjoy with your Goldador. Goldador Lifespan For a designer breed or hybrid like the Goldador, we generally should expect that they live about as long as their parents do. The lifespan of the Golden Retriever and Labrador Retriever is expected is estimated to be around 10 to 12 years of age, so naturally, we estimate that a healthy Goldador should be an estimated 10 to 12 years. It has also been said to have a higher rate of skin and ear infections than other Labrador Retrievers. So with this information, we can as well say that the Chocolate Goldador would possess a shorter lifespan than other color types of the Goldador. However, I highly recommend you carefully select the breeder you choose to patronize. Why is this important? Well, the kind of breeder you choose decides the kind of puppy you get. A reputable breeder cares about the health and well-being of the breed, they carefully select and breed dogs after much testing and screening have been done, thereby reducing the risks of the puppies inheriting such health disorders. In addition to that, a reputable breeder deeply showers the pup with much love and care, thereby ensuring that each dog grows with a decent temperament. What they do is pump put as many dogs as possible from the mum without any care for her well-being. Then trick customers into purchasing a pup at a really low price. Do Goldadors make great family pets? The Goldadors are great family dogs. This particular personality trait is what makes them terrible guard dogs. The best family suited for the Goldador should be one with a lot of love and care to offer. A family that considers the Goldador to be a lot more than just a family pet, to be a member of the family. For a family with children, the Goldador would be the perfect family companion as they love and practically cherish children and the company they offer. Their perfect blend of being both calm and active is perfect for kids that love to run and play. I do however recommend an adult is present to supervise playtime with the Goldador. This is because the Goldador is a large dog, which might be somewhat harmful to toddlers and generally infants. As I stated earlier, the Goldador is an affectionate breed that is also quite sensitive to various emotions, this is mainly why it fits as a therapy dog. Its high level of intelligence means it could easily pick up whatever skill required to be an awesome service and working dog like its Labrador Retriever and Golden Retriever parents. Generally, spend as much time as possible with your Goldador as they are quite clingy and hate to spend any time alone. Shower it with lots of love and it would shower you with a lot more in return. Is the Goldador Right for you? Here is a list of both the pros and the cons of owning a Goldador. Hopefully, this could help you in deciding if it is right for you. A gentle and loving family pet. The Goldador is friendly to both children and small animals. The Goldador is highly affectionate and Intelligent. The Goldador is not aggressive The Goldador can be easily trained. The Cons of Owning a Goldador The Goldador is a moderate shedder not good for people with allergies Not a great dog for people living in small spaces except you regularly exercise your dog , Would need long walks, stimulation, and basically lots of exercises. The Goldador is a terrible great guard dog, this is because it likes strangers. Could be destructive if you leave it alone, and might be too clingy. Other Golden Retrievers Mixes. Tomato leaves stem or unripe fruit Alcohol, beer, wine or liquor Grapes or raisins Golden Retriever Crossed with Labrador Exercise Requirements The Lab Golden Retriever Mix has an active temperament so they might get destructive if they get bored. It is recommended to exercise them at least 2 hours daily. Getting them to do physical activities every day will help keep him happy and healthy. Here are some outdoor activities that you can try with your Golden Retriever Lab Mix: Hiking: It is a great way to turn your daily walk more challenging and exciting for your dog. Swimming: Utilize your private pool and do a swimming exercise with your dog companion. Swimming does not only serve as an exercise activity to yourself and to your companion dog, but it is also a great bonding experience. It also provides relief from the heat during the summer months. Make sure you supervise your dog all the time while doing this activity. Dock Diving: This is a fun sports activity to enjoy with your dog. All you have to do is throw a floating toy and encourage your dog to jump and swim out to retrieve it. If you and your Golden Retriever Lab Mix want to upgrade the challenge, you can try joining a Dock Diving Club and compete with other dogs. Play Fetch: This is a classic outdoor game that is great to do in summer. Challenge your dog by putting a twist to the activity, you can either use a Frisbee or a tennis racquet to make the object travel farther for your Golden Labrador to retrieve and return back to you. However, you should not be working them too much because when it comes to recovering objects, both parent breeds of Golden Retriever Lab Mix can be overly enthusiastic. However, even though they are intelligent dogs and has a friendly nature, you still need to put time and effort to train them better. Both parent breeds were bred to carry things. The best way to teach your Goldador not to bark is to socialize them frequently with strangers. Use Positive Reinforcement The Labrador crossed with Golden Retriever is a sensitive type of dog, so training them using positive reinforcement will be very helpful. Make sure to avoid negative punishment-based training since this hybrid dog may end up fearing you rather than respecting you as their leader. Make it a regular routine to reward your puppy whenever they do something right. Training your Goldador consistently in a positive method will give you pet companions that are obedient and good-natured. Do Mental Exercise The Golden Retriever mixed with Lab is an intelligent dog, and they need stimulating mental activities to avoid developing any aggressive behaviors, such as nuisance barking and chewing. Without proper mental exercise, Goldador puppies will grow into a passive, timid and uninspired dog. Labrador Golden Retriever Mix and Families Despite its large size, the Labrador mixed with Golden Retriever is a great family dog because of its easy-going personality. It is extremely friendly and affectionate. The Goldador is the type of dog that goes well in a loving and active family — one that considers him as a family member. The Golden Labradors cherish the company with children. They are naturally gentle, but they can play tirelessly as long as your kids can keep up. However, due to their sheer size, supervision is still needed around toddlers and infants. The Goldadors makes an excellent therapy and companion dog. Because of their affectionate nature, they generally do well when given lots of attention and affection. These hybrid dogs love to be with people, and hence it is tough for them to cope with solitude. So give love lots of love and affection to your Goldador Lab Retriever Mix and expect that it will shower you back with love. The double coat has a soft undercoat below a rough top coat that is water resistant. Either way, their coat will be fairly high maintenance. Shedding and Grooming Your new friend is going to shed, sometimes a lot. Both parent breeds heavily shed their coats with the change of seasons twice a year. For the rest of the year, expect a moderate level of shedding. Increased brushing during transitional times can help catch the loose hairs and stop them from spreading everywhere. Golden Retriever Labrador mixes will need weekly brushing, likely more during shedding season. Their nails should be trimmed regularly as well. Are They Hypoallergenic? The Goldador dog will not be hypoallergenic. They are high shedders, spreading dander from skin and saliva liberally around your home! With designer breeds like the Golden Retriever Lab, you can only make an educated guess about their temperament based on the general demeanor of their parents as well as the temperament of the parent breeds as a whole. If they are left alone a lot, they may become very destructive to your home. They will chew out of boredom or anxiety. As many Lab lovers know, these dogs do not know a stranger. Generally, the Goldador will get on well with children and other pets. Socialization Socialization from an early age is important for any breed, including the Golden Retriever Lab. Even though it hails from overly friendly and sociable breeds, there are still no guarantees to the temperament of your dog. Since training and socialization are both best started early on, puppy training classes can be a great way to both train and socialize your puppy at the same time. Training Tips The Goldador has an easygoing and eager to please temperament that helps make them highly trainable. Owners should start training early, from the time their puppy comes home. The parent breeds have a long history as service dogs, bomb detection dogs, hunting dogs, and now therapy dogs. Obedience classes will help create a well-mannered dog but also strengthens the bond between the dog and owner. Since Goldadors grow to be large dogs, obedience is also important to prevent them from jumping up at your guests! Energy Levels Golden Retriever Labrador puppies will grow into high-energy adults with a love for playing and a passion for retrieving! A Labrador Golden Retriever Mix makes a great companion for jogging, hiking, or cycling. This is a breed that also loves to swim. Canine sports, like agility, obedience trials, and tracking, are also a great way to keep your dog physically active, mentally stimulated, and out of trouble. As a very social breed, they do best as indoor dogs, but with a large, fenced in yard to run around. In addition to self-exercise, they need walks or other forms of daily activity with their owners. Exercise is especially important for the health of your Goldador since both Golden Retrievers and Labrador Retrievers have a tendency to develop elbow and hip dysplasia. Weight management is one way of combating these joint problems. Health and Care All pedigree dog breeds are inbred to some extent. The measure of this is called the coefficient of inbreeding COI. The higher the COI, the greater the risks of health issues arising specifically from inbreeding. In a crossbreed such as the Goldador, the COI is usually much lower than it is in a purebred dog, and this is a good thing. To begin to look at the health and care of a Goldador we first need to consider the inherited health risks from both parent breeds Labrador and Golden Retriever. Labrador Health Labrador Retrievers are prone to a few hereditary health conditions and joint problems, as well as some health issues common to most dogs. To help minimize the likelihood of hereditary health issues in your new Goldador pup, check that your breeder has followed the recommended testing for the Labrador Retriever breed: Hereditary Nasal Parakeratosis HNKP. Life Span Did You Know? The Golden Labrador is a designer dog breed that originated in the United States. They are a cross between a Golden Retriever and a Labrador Retriever. The goal was to combine these two highly popular breeds to create a dog that exhibits the best traits from both of them. A mixed dog breed can take after one parent breed more than the other or any combination of traits from the parent breeds. This can result in some variation among individual puppies. But, overall, a Golden Labrador is friendly, intelligent, energetic, and affectionate. Although this mixed breed is not recognized by the American Kennel Club, they are recognized by other notable organizations like the American Canine Hybrid Club and more. This large designer breed is characterized by their energetic personality and friendly disposition. Both of the parent breeds in this cross are open, friendly, and affectionate, so you can expect the same in your Golden Labrador puppy. They are very playful and get along fabulously with children, other dogs, and other pets. They may be alert enough to be a good watchdog, but they do not make good guard dogs. They are instinctually more interested in making new friends and getting attention than they are with anything else. They can have a slight prey drive, but most of the time, they are just curious and interested in playing and making friends. The Golden Labrador is a moderately adaptable dog breed. Their large size and energy tend to make them a better fit for larger homes with room to run. They can adapt well to apartment living as long as they are given enough exercise and mental stimulation. But, small spaces can be a challenge because they are large dogs that are so playful and energetic. Golden Labradors do well in just about any climate. As with most dog breeds, they are sensitive to heat and extreme cold. Because they love their families, thrive on attention, and get bored easily, they do not like to be left alone for long periods of time. As a mixed breed, a Golden Labrador can inherit the potential health conditions of one or both of the parent breeds. Although the Golden Labrador is a relatively healthy dog breed, there are some potential health conditions to be aware of. These include eye problems like progressive retinal atrophy and joint issues common to large dogs like patellar luxation and hip dysplasia. Like their parent breeds, the Golden Labrador can be prone to weight gain, which does put them at risk of diabetes later in life. Reputable breeders will screen their stock to ensure genetic conditions are not being passed on to puppies. Regular vet visits, proper nutrition, and sufficient exercise can help keep your dog healthy and reduce preventable diseases. Both of the parent breeds in this cross are highly intelligent and highly trainable, so the Golden Labrador should be no different. Eager to please their owners, these dogs pick up on things quickly and respond best to positive training methods focused on praise and reward. This dog breed, like both of the parent breeds, is a great fit for owners of all experience levels, including first-time dog owners. Their high energy can sometimes be a challenge, so you may want to consider puppy training and obedience classes. This designer dog breed may be called a Golden Labrador, but they can show up in many colors. A cream, yellow, or golden coat may be the most common, but a Golden Labrador can also have a black, red, or brown coat. It tends to be a dense double coat that is short or medium in length. This dog breed will shed moderately year-round with heavier shedding sessions twice a year as the seasons change. During seasonal changes, you may want to increase to daily brushing. Not only will this make your dog more comfortable, but it will also decrease the amount of loose fur that ends up around your house. In addition to coat care, you will also need to handle nail, ear, and dental care for your Golden Labrador. Floppy ears tend to trap more dirt, moisture, and debris, which makes them more prone to developing ear infections than ears that stick straight up. Unfortunately, this is often overlooked, which is why gum disease is one of the most common health issues in dogs. Beyond that, you can use vet-approved dental hygiene chews and treats and even a specially-formulated dental care diet to supplement your efforts. Getting them used to it early and keeping it a positive experience can make grooming a lot easier as your puppy grows into a big dog! Plus, it can become a bonding experience that your dog looks forward to. Golden Labradors are high-energy dogs. Daily walks, playtime, and some extra activity are generally enough for this dog to stay happy and healthy. But, they will probably tire out before you do! Their friendly nature makes the Golden Labrador a great fit for trips to the dog park. Try teaching your dog how to play frisbee. With their retriever background, it could become one of their favorite activities. You can also train your Golden Labrador for several dog sports like agility, dock diving, obedience, and more. A fully-grown Golden Labrador usually stands inches tall at the shoulder and weighs between pounds. A Golden Labrador generally lives years. Although Golden Labrador is the most popular name for this designer dog breed, they are also sometimes referred to as a Goldador or a Goldador Retriever. Featured Golden Labrador Article.

A c 3 charity dedicated to saving, serving, and valuing the lives of displaced, unadoptable and unwanted Texas senior canines. Our mission of mercy celebrates all breeds, regardless of physical, emotional, and medical challenges. From our bunkhouse doors, we shout 'Come! This is Where Love Resides! Our Programs Living Well Our signature program emphasizes prevention and early detection of life-limiting diseases through comprehensive diagnostics supplemented by a holistic approach to living well. Provide 'compassion' educational experiences for K — 9th graders. Cognitive Care By age 15, sixty-eight percent of canines will experience some form of cognitive dementia. Canine Dementia Disorder is no stranger to the Ranch, and a leading reason old dogs are shelter surrendered, euthanized, and most likely overlooked for adoption. Forever Home Every year, millions of devoted pet companions are surrendered after the parent's death and over half will be euthanized. Forever Home is an endowment-based 'pet' planning option offering loving pet parents 'peace of mind' in the event of death or incapacitation. Forever Foster An innovative program designed to increase senior dog pet parenting by eliminating the financial commitment of traditional adoption. Talking Hands Due to nerve degeneration, many senior dogs experience hearing impairment or deafness, often leading to parenting disengagement and isolation. This program aims at helping both dogs and caregivers learn to adapt and revitalize a companion relationship. Bertram, Tx. Want to find out more about adopting? Start by clicking here! STEP 1: Understand the responsibility Make sure you understand how adopting a pet will impact your life. We have some great resources to help smooth the transition! STEP 4: Love them forever! At Saving Grace, we want to make sure each of our dogs finds the best home possible for their particular circumstances. Not every dog would be suited for every family or situation. We provide a unique adoption experience where you are partnered with an Adoption Counselor that makes suggestions and introduces you to dogs that fit your needs and profile. Once your adoption request is reviewed, you are invited to make an appointment to come and work with a counselor. Saving Grace is committed to bringing dogs from underserved communities together with families willing to help these puppies and adult dogs to reach their full potential to enjoy healthy, happy lives and provide loving companionship. How is Saving Grace different? Saving Grace rescues animals from rural animal control facilities. They are introduced to crate training, and also have lots of opportunities to play outside where they can socialize with other dogs and meet and interact with volunteers and visitors. Our volunteers give them lots of attention, affection, and positive reinforcement daily outside of their crates and kennels, which is important to their well-being. As a potential adopter, you have the unique opportunity to interact with available dogs in an open environment — not only do you get to see what dogs may interest you, but the dogs will get a chance to show interest in YOU! We encourage you to find out more about Saving Grace by attending one of our many events. Since the Farm is a private residence, appointments are required and are scheduled after completing the adoption request. Meet Our Dogs! They are just waiting for you to give them the wonderful home they deserve. Click on their picture to learn more about each one. New dogs are arriving at the farm everyday. It can take several days for their profiles to be completed and added to our site. This page is powered by Shelterluv. Learn more www. A few years after Bubba, we started searching for a pug to join our extended family and came across a breeder who turned out to be a horrible puppy mill living in a kennel without proper veterinary care. The last pug on the property quickly came home with us where we gave her vet care, TLC, and found her a perfect home. I began volunteering with Pug Partners in by helping at an event. I volunteered to take home a pug that had been at the vet awaiting a foster home. Bubby never left and we had 10 great years until his passing in .Since that time, I have made it my mission and passion to help pugs in need. Starting with Pug Partners in as a volunteer, Adoption Coordinator in , President in , and Treasurer in has been nothing but a blessing. I have been given the privilege to lead Pug Partners in a quest to help as many pugs as possible. To be owned by a pug is a privilege and that is why do our absolute best in selecting new homes for pugs in need. I fell in love with pugs at a young age and vowed as soon as I was on my own I would get that Pug I had always yearned for. Rocky is the first Pug to own me and he only deepened my love for the breed. In I volunteered to foster my first puppy mill survivor, Zoe whom was quickly a foster failure and the rest was history. I have since gone onto become the volunteer coordinator, foster coordinator and intake coordinator and also serve on the Board of Directors for Pug Partners. I attribute everything to Zoe, who opened my eyes to a whole new world and helped me find my purpose. Each day in rescue can be truly trying, but thankfully we have an amazing group of volunteers and we all stick close together and go on to conquer each day and embrace the next. I look forward to being a part of Pug Partners for years to come! My very first foster was a puppy mill pug and I knew from that point on, that I was going to make it my personal mission to help as many pugs as I can in anyway possible. I became the Medical Coordinator in because the health and well-being of our pugs are important to me. In addition to the medical component, I love to help our pugs as many ways as possible. I am excited to be a part of Pug Partners! It is extremely rewarding! Kelly Board Member and Webmaster I married into my first pug, Izzy, who is such a lovable girl that I decided to help other pugs in need as a volunteer. As a foster pug mom and a board member, I love to help every pug find their forever home. Both LuAnn and I help in other areas events, transportation, etc. I first fell in love with pugs in June .After the death of one of our Pekingese she was hit by a car , we were looking for another Pekingese and came across a pug. Although we did not get that particular pug, I was smitten by the look of the pug and we ended up getting Bandit a PekePug who was 10 weeks old at the time. I became totally enamored with Pugs at that point and Bandit became totally spoiled. My wife, LuAnn, grew up with a pug and was already a fan of the breed. We now have a 2nd pug, Adrienne, who we got from Pug Partners and a corgi mix Molly plus 2 cats. We have become more involved over the years, leading to my current position. Both LuAnn and I really enjoy working with Pug Partners and all the dedicated volunteers who have helped Pug Partners save so many pugs! Andy Volunteer Coordinator In I began looking for my first dog. I had developed a love for Pugs since I had a good friend who had one and their mentality and behavior fit me so well. That search for a pug led me to my pug Grace who was 5 months old when I rescued her from a puppy mill in Kansas. During this search I had gone and looked at another breed of dog and found the living conditions at this house to be horrible. There were hundreds of dogs in a double wide trailer. Shortly after rescuing Grace I also found out that my former neighbor a few doors down was a Co-owner of a pet store and involved with Pug Partners. It was at that time I decided I wanted to dedicate some of my time to helping the cause for these great dogs. I began working with Pug Partners of Nebraska in .I started out trying to assist with online needs, events, and donating items I could produce to raise funds. I have continued to help in anyway possible since then. In I accepted the role of Volunteer Coordinator. I continue to try and learn more about the role and its functionality. I am hoping the next month to be able to grow this role and find way to make it more efficient and effective. I am now also engaged to be married and have had the joy of watching Grace win over her new mama and her step brother and sister humans , as well as step brother cat not sure he has completely given in to her love…. The changes in my work and life the last 2 years we are hoping to try fostering soon. Looking back at it now……. .Grace has changed me far more than I her! I am a far better person because of her. I look forward to doing as much as I can to help other pugs experience the joy of family, as well as giving other families the chance to learn what I now know! Jessica and Matt Founders Jessica and Matt fell in love with pugs when they got their first pug puppy Rocky in April .Later that year, they became active with the Omaha Pug Club and their love for pugs grew exponentially. In the opportunity to foster a pug in need came and they took in their first foster pug, Lily. Grass, stairs, the TV were all new things to Lily. Within a month of fostering, they knew that their life would be the same without Lily in it. So they adopted her. Soon they learned about more and more pugs in need and with the help of Megan and Si Hollibaugh, started up Pug Partners of Nebraska. Since then with the help of our amazing volunteers, Pug Partners of Nebraska has rescued over pugs. For Jess and Matt the most rewarding part of doing rescue work is seeing families cherish the joy of owning pugs. Whitney Co-Founder I helped co-found the rescue in with my sister Jessica and love helping Pug Partners rescue pugs in need.

We take great pride in our dogs, and they are a part of our family. Our Labrador Retrievers live inside our home, spending their days lounging away on the couch! Our Labs are a close pack and love to play. There is never a dull moment around the MLC Lab pack. Our dogs each have their own great personality that comes out when they romp and get into typical Labrador life situations. We love our Lab life! We focus on genetic health and environmental support in our breeding program. We are very conscious about improving the Labrador breed and because of that, all of our breeding dogs must pass their health testing before being bred. We test them for several genetic diseases known to affect Labrador Retriever. We also take our Labs for hips and elbows x-rays to make sure they are not dysplastic. We do this to ensure we are doing everything we can to produce the healthiest puppies we can. Our Labs have certified scores. Our litters can contain chocolate, silver, black, charcoal, yellow, and champagne puppies. The yellow and champagne puppies may range in shade from cream to light red. We can not guarantee shade. If you are on the waiting list for a yellow or champagne puppy it is for any shade. If you are interested in purchasing a puppy from us, we recommend starting the application process immediately. We know how exciting it is to watch puppies open their eyes and begin to play! We like to offer our puppy families the chance to see that. We host a lot of Facebook live videos so be sure to come hang out with us on our facebook page MLC Labradors. We offer delivery along the east coast, for an additional fee. For families not along the East coast we do have a flight nanny available. Use tab to navigate through the menu items. Welcome to Russford Labradors! We strive to produce healthy, even tempered, and beautiful companions that families can be proud to own. Our dogs are true to their breed standard - in both conformation and in temperament often called "English" labs. Our versatile puppies are suitable as both family members and hunting companions, and we spend many weekends traveling around the country to AKC shows competing in conformation, rally, and obedience. We are a family made up of 4 adult daughters, plus mom and dad - we each have a Russford Lab or two or three in our homes, so that they can live like the spoiled pets they deserve to be. While puppies are raised at the family home in Bath, some of our adult dogs live with our daughters in different areas of New York State. We keep a small number of breeding dogs, usually between 2 and 4 adults, and we occasionally have puppies available to select homes. Our dogs have DNA, hips, elbows, hearts, and eyes tested at a minimum to prevent genetic diseases. Our puppies are raised in our home utilizing the Puppy Culture Program for rearing and socializing, and they are placed into loving pet homes on AKC limited registration. We typically have homes waiting for our puppies before they are born; if you are interested in our plans for future litters, please watch our Facebook and Instagram pages and contact us for more information when a litter is coming up. Thank you for visiting our site. Our Commitment: Welcome to Bailiwick Retrievers web site. We concentrate on Sporting Dogs, Hunting Dogs, Puppy training and of course, family companion puppies. We take a great deal of time researching just the right breeding combination, resulting in puppies very strong in intelligence, health and genetics. All of which allows you to take your new hunting companion and family member to the next level. We are licensed and inspected yearly by Georgia Department Of Agriculture We are not a boarding facility……. .Our Labrador retriever puppies carry the intelligence, trainability and instincts found in only the very best. Hunting Lab Breeders, like Bailiwick Retrievers, produce top hunting companions and of course, first class family members. We have placed our lab puppies for Search and Rescue, Narcotic Dogs, to the government and individual trainers, and Agility Dogs. We at Bailiwick Retrievers believe in socializing, starting on the first day they arrive. Our Pups are born in our house, in the Florida Room next to the Pool…. They are socialized from day one, introduced to loud noises, different sounds and different spaces. This is very important in helping them adjust to their new world without fear. It is all in the training, our dogs even sleep in the bed BUT they know the house rules as well as learning the rules and requirements of a Hunt Test. Teaching what is acceptable from the beginning is very important. Getting a Hunting Labrador Retriever puppy that has the best of both worlds is very easy with great breeding. The intelligence this strong breeding brings makes training easy. Our new lab puppy owners are very important to us. We encourage you to keep us posted on your new labs progress and development. We take great pride in our pups and love progress reports. We are always here for you with suggestions and to answer all questions. Labs are naturally born to hunt and make wonderful companion dogs with a natural family oriented temperament. The Labrador Retriever is unusually adaptable, obedient and kind-hearted. They are sociable, affectionate and loyal with a keen sense of smell. No wonder they are so popular!!! When we began looking for a puppy, we knew we wanted her to have a strong bloodline and come from a reputable breeder. We did a lot of research and finally landed on the Kennels of Baliwick based on their breeding standards and credentialed dam and sire. We are so happy with our decision and feel our Sweet Reese Lee is truly a great-looking dog! She is very affectionate and has demonstrated her ability to be a fabulous hunter time and time again. Loud noises, not a problem; gun shy, not this pup; curious, you betcha! Crate training was no problem with Reese and she had the basic obedience commands down in weeks. On top of that, her keen sense of smell and alertness is unmatched. She is high energy, super playful, and brings so much joy to our lives! We are very grateful to Barbara and Tyler for the love and safekeeping of Reese after she was born and could not have asked for a greater first puppy buying experience! Thanks again! Thank you David for all the joy you have given us. We love our beautiful dogs! He is just perfect! My vet said he has never seen a better put together Lab. He is the hit of our community and has to say hello to everyone he meets. Hidden Ponds is just the best place to purchase a Lab. David is so kind and informative. His dogs are gorgeous and well mannered. They treat their dogs with kindness and it shows. They are smart, their costs are beautiful! He has a great personality and is wonderful with the kids! He is lbs and thinks he is a lap dog. We would definitely buy from Dave again!! Lindie is an incredible athlete, as you can see by the photo. Lindie also volunteers at our local hospital in Glens Falls, NY comforting anyone that needs fur therapy! She is an amazing ambassador for the Labrador breed! Thank you! He hiked his first mountains this weekend in the Adirondacks. He is such a wonderful addition to our family and we will be back for a companion for him next year. Read more testimonials Bentley Bentley is almost 4 years old and is absolutely amazing! She is the happiest, cuddliest, wiggliest ball of fur, and I love her more than I can say. She is super smart, very curious, and a little mischievous. She has already learned to walk very well with my wheelchair. Thank you, Hidden Pond! At 9weeks she has accomplished stairs,swimming learned to sit and give paw. Play time and eating remain 1 LOL but,she is full of kisses and love all the time too. My sweet service dog, Rhett, came home in October of and has been the biggest blessing in my life. This breeder not only breeds for confirmation and health but for perfect personality and temperament. They are perfect in every sense of the term responsible breeder. I cannot imagine life without my Labs. And not to mention how welcoming everyone was when we went to pick Rhett up. They care about each puppy they welcome into their home. And they strongly support several forms of care to keep the puppies happy and healthy in their new homes like food and supplements! I cannot thank them enough or recommend them enough!! Savannah Stevens Read more testimonials Chip Chip is a crazy, funny, lovable gem. He is the most gorgeous dog. He has the most regal head. Everyone who sees him stops to tell us what a handsome dog he is. Thank you to Hidden Pond for letting him be ours. We picked her up in early July , and she made our family complete! She is such an amazing dog: sweet, gentle, loving, and playful. It is wonderful to see how much she loves our three young boys. We love how much she loves being outside — especially swimming and playing in the snow. Thank you Dave and your family for bringing her into our lives. She was exactly what our family needed to be complete. She is the sweetest, spunkiest and most wonderful dog we could have asked for. We picked him up this past September. He is a joy, fully housebroken, and so very funny. Everyone who meets him always comment on how handsome he is. He is really beginning to look like his dad, Thunder. He loves walking and meeting all his dog friends in our community. Thanks, David, for this wonderful dog! He has made our house a home again!! She brings so much joy to our home. She is loyal, smart and a lot of fun. She loves going on walks or long hikes in the woods and is a big snuggler in the house. Scout has a very sweet disposition and people comment on what a beautiful girl she is. She enjoys people and dogs of all ages. Thank you Dave, we are enjoying every day with one of your Hidden Pond pups! Courtney Hundley Read more testimonials Raemo This Lab is truly a best friend to everyone that comes his way. Very kind and affectionate. Raemo is now 6 months old and is great with the family, friends and the neighborhood. He is great with other dogs too! David and his Labs are simply the best and worth the wait! Rob Amurao Read more testimonials Daisy We got Daisy in June , but Dave introduced us to her the day she was born; it was love at first sight!!! Dave kept us updated with pictures and short videos as we anxiously awaited the day we could pick her up. She has been an absolute joy in our lives! She is incredibly smart, a sweetheart along with being an active puppy. She was swimming at 10 weeks with our other dogs. She is now 10 months old; everyone she meets loves her. Thank you, Dave, for such an awesome new family member!!! Marilyn Morey Read more testimonials Mabel Mabel is 6 months and we thank you for this blessing. She is a wonderful addition to our family. We love going on adventures with our little girl. Highly recommend and reasonable pricing! He has an amazing temperament, his favorite activities are long walks and swimming! Marlana Broderick Read more testimonials Chip Chip is the best dog we have ever had. He is funny, silly, smart and so handsome. We get stopped on the street every 5 feet. Everyone asks where he is from and tells us how gorgeous he is. Thank you Dave. This photo is with his sister Cocoa. Chip on the left Cocoa on the right. She has such a great personality. Gets along so well with the grandkids ,and so adaptable she took to the crate and house breaking so easily. Accepts new experiences so calmly. Dave has been great to work with a fountain of info. We also went with the dog food he recommended an love the results that we switched our cat to it as well. She is the most beautiful, sweet tempered, smart lab. We could not be happier having her as part of our family. Romy Ziegler. For nearly 50 years we have produced English Labradors in the true style of the all-around dog they were meant to be. Our ultimate goal has been a beautiful dog conforming to breed standards with soundness of temperament and body. Our Labradors retain the hunting ability that has made them the supreme hunting retriever. This intelligent, well-tempered dog is a perfect family companion and service dog. We are pleased to not only have many of our On The Bluff Labradors in pet, show and hunting homes, but also used as guide dogs for the disabled and specialist for airscent detection. Our breeding program strives for perfection in every litter. We use the highest quality stud dogs with a background of multiple Grand Champions. We combine their linage with the outstanding genetics of our females. The result are not just cute, adorable puppies, but dogs that can be well trained, healthy companions for a lifetime. We have never lost sight of our initial goal to produce the perfect Labrador- in mind and body. Feel free to email us for additional information or to get on a waiting list for one of our puppies. Staffed by professional trainers- each puppy receives several weeks and hundreds of hours of individual lessons- Obedience Training, House Living Training, Group Socialization, and Outside Etiquette. We believe our unique training methods and individualized programs sets us apart from any other breeder. Here you will find many adorable pictures of our current puppies. Our Prices: Our base prices are listed below, according to current demand for colors and genders. Note: Sales tax is due on any pups or merchandise sold in California. By request, and for an additional fee, we often transport puppies to Davis. We used to be able to ship puppies via airplane all over the continental United States, but more restrictions apply at this time, due to Covid, extreme heat, or extreme cold. Unfortunately, we no longer ship puppies to Hawaii, due to their quarantine restrictions. Can I pick out my Labrador Retriever puppy before the designated adoption date? Sorry, but no. Most people will not know which puppy they are choosing until puppy adoption day. What supplies do we need for our new puppy? So many people ask us this question, we wrote a blog giving our advice. You can read our blog here. Do you raise American or English Labs? Both, actually, but mainly American. Only a few of our dogs are pure English; some are a blend of American and English. Litters are usually pure American or a blend of American and English. None, so far, are pure English. If you scroll down to the bottom of the videos page you can also view links to past litters of Labrador puppies for your viewing pleasure. We may, however, be able to refer you to hunting dog trainers, so feel free to shoot us an email asking us about that. Marble Mountain Kennels.

Learn more » Pet owners are always trying to find the perfect schedule to keep their pets happy and healthy. Staying on a routine when it comes to feeding, walking, and hygiene are all part of this. When it comes to bathtime, however, things can be a little hit or miss. Some dogs love bath time. Others hate it. Pugs are known for having sensitive skin and facial skin folds that need special attention. But how often should a Pug be bathed? Some dogs may need a bath more often if they roll in something unpleasant, while others can do with just a few baths per year. So, sticking to a particular schedule of bathing your Pug will be difficult, as it will greatly vary in individual dogs, depending on their lifestyle and their skin health. Daily cleaning and checking of their facial skin folds is another matter altogether. Read on below to learn how this schedule works, tips for bathing your Pug, and when to detour from your schedule. The AKC does not consider their coat double. These layers grow independently of one another and require different care. Occasional bathing and regular weekly brushing are required to keep your Pug looking and smelling their best. Frequent and unnecessary bathing will disrupt this fine skin balance and cause the skin to become irritated and dry. Brushing gently and regularly is an efficient way to remove loose hairs during shedding. However, if your Pug gets dirty, rolls in the mud, or finds their way into something stinky, tossing them into the bath may be the only solution. A Pug with skin issues may need a different approach, and we will go through this in more detail, so continue reading. Those wrinkles, alongside the ones around their tail base, require special care, however. Naturally, these warm hiding places can be the breeding ground for unwanted infections. Wanting to be a great Pug owner, regular daily inspection and cleaning of these areas when required, or a minimum of several times each week, if not daily, is crucial in picking up any signs of an infection early on and preventing skin fold dermatitis or even deep skin infection called pyoderma. Having a routine for wrinkle care can keep you on track with their skin health. Make sure you clean them thoroughly and gently, without causing any skin irritation. One of the most important things to remember about Pug wrinkle care is drying. After a bath, wrinkles need to be focused on when it comes to drying. Leaving them wet is one of the primary causes of the fungal infections you want to avoid. Dabbing them gently with a clean towel is the best way to do this. Image Credit: fongleon, Shutterstock 1. Choose a Bathing Area The first thing you should do when bathing your Pug is choosing the right area. When this is the case, since your Pug is a small dog, you can always use the kitchen sink. Either way, make sure your pup is comfortable before bath time starts. Gather Your Necessities Before you pop your Pug into the water, you should have everything you need on hand. Harsh shampoos cause dry skin and irritation. Instead, you should opt for using shampoos and conditioners designed for sensitive skin and recommended or prescribed by your vet. Another good option is to use plant-based products which are often less damaging, but make sure they have been checked by your vet first. Do not get any water in their ears, as this may irritate them and lead to an ear infection. There are appropriate ear cleaners your vet can prescribe for regular ear hygiene. Image Credit: Ihar Halavach, Shutterstock 3. By removing loose hairs, you can focus more on washing away dirt. The last thing you want to do is burn your Pug. Instead, run the bath or sink with 2 to 3 inches of lukewarm water that will be comfortable for your dog. Image Credit: Natali Kuzina, Shutterstock 5. Then you can place them in the water and thoroughly wet the skin. If you have a spray nozzle this process is much easier. If not, you can easily use a cup or bowl to help out. When your Pug is wet, apply the shampoo and massage their skin gently but thoroughly. Medicated shampoos usually need to stay on for minutes to take effect, as they are antibacterial and antifungal, but it will depend on the individual product. Your vet may recommend washing the whole dog or just certain areas of the body where the issue is, and they will instruct you on how frequently to do so. Make sure all the shampoo is rinsed away before you apply the conditioner. The conditioner needs to stay on for at least 2 minutes before being thoroughly rinsed away. Then bathtime is finished. Keeping your pet's skin and coat clean and healthy is very important, but finding a great shampoo can be harder than the actual grooming! We love our Hepper Pet Shampoos because they makes grooming so much easier. These pH-balanced formulas are made with natural ingredients like oatmeal, cucumber, and aloe. They are free of phthalates, sulfates, and soaps and very gentle on your pet's skin. Now you just need to decide which formula is best for your fur baby! This can be made worse by bathing as things like scented shampoos can act as an irritant, and frequent washes that serve to strip their skin of its natural oils. With that in mind, how often is too often when it comes to bathing your Pug? How often should you bathe a Pug? You should only bathe a Pug every 2 to 6 months in order to maintain a balance between their skin health and hygiene. So, in practical terms, if your Pug gets his coat muddy, and he starts to stink, you need to give them a bath outside of the regular bathing schedule. How to bathe your Pug in 5 simple steps Smaller Pugs can be bathed in a usual bathtub with a shower, but if you have a smaller Pug or a Pug puppy, you can bathe them in a sink with a sink sprayer. I would not bother filling up the tub. This is especially important if your Pug is young, anxious or not a very confident swimmer. This is how you can bathe a pug. Use a specialist dog shampoo Then, get a gentle, soap-free dog shampoo and use your fingers to lather and work the shampoo into the coat. As mentioned, Pugs have extra sensitive skin, which is why a soap-free shampoo is the best option. What is the best shampoo for a Pug smell? It also helps to moisturise their skin, and smells great too. Rinse the shampoo away Rinse the shampoo out and repeat the process as many times as necessary to get all of the dirt out. Give the conditioner no more than two minutes to set and then rinse again thoroughly. Dry your Pug thoroughly To avoid that nasty wet dog smell, you need to dry your Pug completely. Dry your dog with either a towel or a hairdryer on the lowest setting. This is their way to get water off their coat and out of their ears. Additional Pug bathing and washing tips Now you know how to bathe a Pug, I wanted to get into a little bit more detail about how you wash some specific parts of their body in the bath or shower. This includes the outside ear flaps and the corners of the eyes to get rid of any stubborn tear stains. I would do this instead of pouring water on their face — not many dogs like this! Specially made dog ear-cleaning solution contains ingredients that helps to break down and remove wax, as well as anti-bacterial agents that soothes inflammation and prevents infection. You should apply this solution to a damp cotton ball and gentle wipe the inside of the ear use a different cotton ball for each ear in order to prevent spreading infection and check for any injuries, infection, inflammation or scrapes. If you notice something unusual, apply antibiotic ointment and go to your vet in order to seek further advice. If you cut into the quick, this will cause bleeding and extreme pain for your dog. It will also make it incredibly difficult to cut their nails in the future. After cutting the nails, give your Pug a treat so that they have positive associations with the experience. The top layer is thick, waterproof and usually a brown colour, whilst the bottom layer is softer, more sensitive and yet also dense because it acts as an insulator. It is usually white and is more likely to shed during the winter months. Luckily, with Pugs being short-haired breeds, their coat, despite its complexities, is reasonably easy to care for. Brushing: Brush out dirt, prevent shedding and distribute natural oils throughout your Pug by brushing them at least once a week with a bristle brush, a hound grooming glove or or a finer brush if you want to remove excess dirt or hair. Brush your Pug more frequently — up to three times a week — during shedding season. You should also pay attention to any fur around the feet or on the pads of the feet that you might want to trim for tidiness. Freshening up: To keep your Pug clean between baths, doggy dry shampoo is quick and easy to use — you just need to sprinkle it on your dog and then distribute it with a brush. You can also use a spray-on dog conditioner in order to keep the coat looking shiny. Conclusion Although you should always keep in mind the allergies and skin issues that come with owning a Pug, bathing them can be a rewarding bonding experience that helps to keep them squeaky clean, happy, and free from infection! With any dog, it is important to strike that balance between not enough grooming and too-much grooming. Whilst it is important to ensure your dog is clean, tidy and healthy, over-bathing can cause its own issues, making it ultimately more counterproductive. You might also like…. This is your chance to thoroughly clean your puppy or dog to remove body oil, dirt, and debris, slather the entire body with products that will promote healthy skin and fur, and use something to control odors and keep your Pug smelling nice. There are some bathing missteps that can actually cause issues such as overly dry skin, skin reactions like itching or rash, or striped fur, and not properly drying your Pug can contribute to skin yeast infections. So, this article will cover the exact steps to successfully bathe a Pug for maximum benefits. How Often a Pug Needs a Bath Most Pugs need to be given a bath once every 3 weeks, even if they appear to be clean and smell just fine. Baths are given at this interval because the body is constantly producing oils that are excreted through the hair follicles. These serve as a natural barrier from external elements and help keep a dog's skin moisturized. But, these do not evaporate; rather, they accumulate. At about the 3-week mark, there is enough body oil on a Pug that skin pores can become blocked and a bad smell can develop if these are not washed away. A bath, done properly, will effectively wash those oils away without stripping the skin and fur, leaving your Pug with a 'clean slate' that will mark the beginning of the 3-week cycle. Another thing that happens during a bath is that loose hairs are freed. And, while the same time interval does not apply to this method of removing dead hairs from a Pug's coat as it does in regard to body oils, it can be advantageous for this to occur every 3 weeks since this can decrease the amount of work you do when brushing the coat to keep shedding under control. Note that you can give your Pug a bath more often than this if the circumstances warrant it; for example, if your Pug rolled around in a muddy puddle or otherwise got so dirty that spot-cleaning won't work or if there are skin issues that require the use of a specialty shampoo. Where to Give a Pug a Bath Young puppies, due to their size and possible fear of water, often do best when given a bath in a kitchen sink. Everything should be removed from the sink and it should be cleaned well and rinsed out. Adult Pugs can also be given baths in a sink, if it is large enough. But, many do best with baths in a bathtub. If the weather is warm enough that an outside water hose will not be too cold, baths can be given outdoors as long as you have a clean area to do so with one option being a small kiddie pool. Supplies Needed When Giving a Bath Of course, just wetting a dog down does not qualify as a bath since it won't accomplish the mission of removing body oils, dirt, and debris and applying products that are good for the skin and coat. So, you will need a few things: 1. A brush or mitt for pre-bath grooming. Since baths will loosen a whole bunch of hairs on this high-shedding breed , it's a good idea to go over the coat right before you give your Pug a bath. This will help keep the amount of hairs freed during the bathing process to a manageable level. Though you can use a slicker brush, you may find that a mitt like the Delomo Enhanced Grooming Glove makes this much easier. And, it's great to be able to accomplish this without having to hold onto anything. The goal is to use something that will cleanse away oils, not just skim over them, and be good for a Pug's skin. At the same time, steer clear of soaping agents as these can be very harsh, causing dryness; instead, opt for plant-based cleansers. Certain additives should be avoided which are known to cause irritation or allergic reactions; this includes synthetic preservatives, parabens, phthalates, sulfates, polyethylene glycol, and artificial perfumes or dyes. In addition, the pH balance should be between 6. Wash-out conditioner. When a dog is given a bath, this triggers the hair cuticles the protective outer layer to open up. This is great, since they can be properly cleansed. But, a wash-out conditioner should then be used to smooth these back down. If not, a Pug's fur will be vulnerable to outside elements that can quickly lead to overly dry fur; it will lose its shine and have an unpleasant straw-like texture. One recommended product is Earthbath Oatmeal and Aloe Conditioner which does a great job in smoothing down the hair cuticles and is excellent for keeping the skin and fur properly moisturized. A scrub brush. This is optional; however, particularly for adult Pugs, you may find this to be very useful. All fawn Pugs and some black Pugs have very dense double-layered coats. It can be very tiring on the hands to work shampoo all the way down through the thick layers of fur to the skin where it needs to do its job. And, a bath brush can be a great way to snag up all of the hairs that typically become loose when Pugs are given baths. This has uniquely designed rubber tips that are awesome at latching onto dead hairs while offering a pleasant massage, a slip-through hand guide so that your hand doesn't cramp up, and it's very durable. Cotton balls. Though Pugs have folded ears that somewhat help keep out external water, any water that does enter the ears can lead to ear infections. So, it is best to play it safe and loosely place cotton in the opening of the ear canals to act as a barrier. Two thin washcloths and an absorbent towel. One washcloth will be to clean your Pug's face, including around the eye area and wrinkles. The other washcloth will be used to dry your Pug's ears and in between the toes since these two areas are prone to skin yeast infections when moisture is left behind. The towel, as you may have guessed, is to dry your Pug's body. A non-slip mat optional. If you find that your Pug slips and slides around, and particularly if this startled your dog or makes giving baths difficult, place a non-slip mat into the sink or tub before you start to help your Pug keep their footing. Step-by-Step Instructions for Giving a Pug a Bath Prep: 1: Give the coat a good brushing with a slicker brush, grooming glove, or other chosen grooming tool to remove dead hairs. This includes the shampoo, conditioner, bath brush, washcloths, and towel. Bathing Instructions: 1: Fill the tub or sink with 1 to 3 inches of luke-warm water before you place your Pug in. Test the temperature with your inner wrist. You can tear away pieces from a cotton ball to do this. Do not place the cotton deep. Ideally, this is done using a spray nozzle, but if you do not have this option, you can use a small bowl or cup. At first, water may roll off the coat and body oils may prevent water from getting through the coat, so make sure that the coat is thoroughly soaked. You will want to apply this liberally since skimping on the shampoo can lead to only partial cleansing of body oils. Then, use the washcloth to scrub the underbelly and genital area. Using a nozzle works well to reach down through the coat to make sure all the shampoo is appropriately rinsed out with no residue left behind. Use a generous amount to cover all areas of the body. Massage this in for 2 to 5 minutes and then rinse thoroughly. Remove your Pug and allow them to shake to remove excess water. Then, wrap your dog in an absorbent towel, patting and gently rubbing in the direction of the fur growth. Remove the cotton from the ears. Use a thin, clean washcloth to dry the outer ears and the inner ears as far in as you can comfortably go and in between each of the toes. Did you find this article to be helpful? You'll also be able to suggest a topic for us to write about; we always look to Member suggestions. You may also like: Pug Dog Grooming - An overview of every grooming task that needs to be done to keep a Pug clean and well-groomed. Taking Care of a Pug's Teeth - It's very important to keep your Pug's teeth clean and free of plaque. This can usually be accomplished at home if these tasks are done on time. Pug Dog has a Bad Odor - A list of the possible reasons why a Pug may smell bad and exactly how to remedy this. Pug Wrinkle Care - The facial folds of this breed need to be kept clean and dry or yeast infections can develop. Read how to care for the wrinkles and treat possible issues. All rights reserved. Privacy Policy We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon. Do Pugs Like Baths? The answer will vary, but most Pugs will actually enjoy the process. Which is great, because Pugs have a tendency to stink. Their adorable wrinkles are a trap for bacteria and food, which will cause them to stink. Before you get your Pug ready to bathe, you need to check this article out for the best shampoos for Pugs. But over time your favorite human shampoo can cause havoc to your dog. Human shampoo is made specifically for humans. The human acid mantle has a pH of 5. You should also avoid using shampoos that DO NOT contain any added fragrances like eucalyptus, citrus, lavender, and chamomile. Stick with oatmeal baths for dogs. Can Pugs Clean Themselves? All dogs lick themselves for various reasons. Overall, dogs are clean animals, but unlike cats, they lick themselves for various reasons. When your dog licks himself, it represents a different type of cleaning, specifically, cleaning a wound. A dogs saliva contains certain enzymes and bacteria that can help speed up the healing process of an open wound. Bathing your Pug will depend on several different factors, such as how often they spend outdoors rolling around on the grass. If your Pug spends time outdoors in the sunshine and fresh daily air, without rolling on poop or grass, frequent bathing is unnecessary. Excessive bathing can lead to dry itchy skin problems. More often than not, your Pug will just require a good brushing to help remove some of that excess hair. We used to give Mindy baths outside using the water hose all the time during the Summer months. These steps will make the process so much easier for you. Read this article to find out how to properly groom your Pug. It will create consistency and help calm your Pug during the bathing process. When I gave Mindy a bath in the tub during the winter, I found it so much easier to get into the tub with her. Bending over the bathtub can be difficult on the back and knees. Avoid washing them on the grass or a muddy area, which will just be counterproductive. Brushing them before a bath will help remove some of that excess hair that they will come loose during the bath. Not only that, but it will help make the cleanup process a lot easier after the bath. If water enters their ear, it can lead to ear infections, as the damp water loves warm environments to grow. While bathing Fido, be careful not to get water too close to their ears. If so, you need to ensure that you use lukewarm water on your furbaby. You want to use water that is not too hot or too cold. Pugs tend to have sensitive skin and if you use water that is too hot, it can cause irritate their skin or possibly even burn them. When we put her in the tub, she had trouble standing because her claws kept slipping. A non-slip mat can prevent them from slipping and make the bathing experience more pleasurable. Talk to your Pug in a calm and reassuring tone to let them know they are doing a great job. Avoid using shampoos that have chemicals that can cause irritation or allergic reactions. The best way to do this is to avoid using soap on the head or facial areas. We always used to rinse Mindy twice to ensure that all the shampoo and conditioner were out of the coat. However, the bath will loosen up the hair on your Pug. If your hair dryer allows, switch it to the neutral heat or cool air. Personally, we used a towel on Mindy and she loved it. After the bath, we would hold a towel up and Mindy would run up to us and we would wrap the towel around her and rub her dry. Leaving the face moist can lead to bacterial infections. Like us, a bath makes us feel refreshed and clean. Your Pug feels the same way and their excitement will show you that they actually enjoyed the process. If they start to associate a bath with positive reinforcement, the whole process will be easier. They will stop fighting you and will eventually remain calm during bath time. Get a good grooming brush and brush them quickly after their fur completely dries after the bath. A brush will not only remove the loose fur but will make their coat shine. Related Questions Can I bathe my Pug daily? Too much bathing can be bad for Pugs. They require natural oils that are produced by the skin to help promote hair growth. Too much bathing can lead to dry itchy skin. What is the best shampoo for Pugs? Choose natural shampoos like Oatmeal baths for dogs. These all natural products do not contain any harmful fragrances that can cause your harmful side effects for your dog. The minimum age for a puppy first bath is 8 weeks old. If your Puppy gets into the mud, or rolls around on the grass, use a damp cloth or hypoallergenic baby wipes to clean them. Related Articles for Pug Grooming. This square and cobby breed comes in fawn, silver fawn, apricot fawn or black, with a well-defined "mask" on his muzzle. A popular companion dog, the pug also excels in the show ring. They are comfortable in small apartments because they need minimal exercise, but the breed can adapt easily to all situations. The Pug sheds, but its short coat requires little grooming. Grooming A Pug does require regular bathing and grooming. This outgoing and loving little dog can be bathed as frequently as every week up to no more than every six weeks depending on his lifestyle. With this short-coated breed, regular bathing is essential to maintain healthy skin and coat. Lightly card the coat to help accelerate shedding. Once you have selected the best products for your Pug, it is bath time! Use a grooming mitt and massage in a circular motion to stimulate the release of natural oils. This will also aide in the removal of any excess, loose hair. In order to keep the fine, smooth coat in prime condition, it is always beneficial to use a hydrating spray following the bathing and drying process. This allows the skin and coat to lock in moisture to help maintain perfect hydration. General Health Care Prep work is the foundation of all grooming. Prep work includes ear cleaning, nail trimming, anal glands, and proper dental hygiene. Mastering these skills sets the professional pet stylist apart from the rest. Prep work should be done before every bathing and grooming appointment. All dogs need to have their ears checked and cleaned on a regular basis. Proper nail care is also very important. Long, unsightly nails are uncomfortable for the dog, as well as anyone they might jump on. Long nails also compromise the shape of the foot. Trimming the pads of the foot helps give the dog good traction on different surfaces and can minimize the amount of dirt the dog tracks into the house. It also affords the opportunity to treat and condition the paws from cracks and abrasions. Anal glands should also be checked and expressed if they are full. Some caring pet owners prefer to have the anal glands done by their veterinarian. Good dental hygiene is essential for a healthy pet as well. Nutritional Care In order to maintain healthy skin and coat as well as overall health, it is important to provide good nutrition to your dog through a well-balanced diet, vitamins, and healthy treats. Do they require a lot of grooming? If you are not a fan of cutting hair, then you have made the right selection of choosing a Pug. This smooth, short coated, even tempered little dog requires minimal grooming. Regular baths are necessary to help keep this under control. What is a common problem in Pugs? The Pug, like other purebred dogs, has its fair share of health concerns. In general, the eyes, skin, orthopedics, and brain are the primary focal points for health concerns. Corneal Ulcers, Dry Eye, and Proptosis abnormal protrusion or displacement of an eye are more common eye problems in Pugs. They are also prone to several skin issues such as allergies, Demodectic Mange, Staph and Yeast infections, and Celestially which is also known as Walking Dandruff. Do Pugs shed or cause allergies? Pugs do shed quite a bit to their short coat. This breed is probably not the best dog to bring into your home if you suffer from allergies. However, if your heart is set on a Pug, you should spend some time around the breed to make sure you do not have an allergic reaction. Are Pugs good with children? Pugs and children make a great pair. However, there are a few things to be aware of when having a small child and a Pug. Pugs are susceptible to breathing problems and this is compounded in hot weather. Making sure your Pug always has plenty of fresh water and does not over exert themselves is not a natural thing for children to be aware of. And lastly, Pugs will eat anything and everything. A child will need to be taught what a dog should and should not eat. On the positive side, a Pug can be a great playmate and a great companion for a child. What if I have a show dog? Whether you have a show dog or a companion quality dog, the same basic care is given regarding nutrition, socialization, and hygiene. The difference is the conditioning of the dog and conformation training. It is always quite helpful if your breeder can help mentor you to lead you in the right direction upon entering the wonderful world of dog shows. A great place to start is with the national breed club like the Pug Dog Club of America, www. May we suggest.Yes, you do need to bathe your Pug. This breed has very sensitive skin meaning that some products may cause irritation. Top tip: avoid scented or perfumed products. Look for doggie-friendly soap products with only natural ingredients. Bathing is essential to keep your Pug clean. This is super important for keeping your Pug healthy and reduces the buildup of unpleasant odors. Keeping your Pug clean helps to reduce shedding, condition the skin, and prevent yeast and fungal infections of the skin. Plus, your pooch will come out smelling like roses. Opinion varies on this matter, I like to bathe Sid 4 every weeks. The general agreement is that you should not be washing your Pug too frequently so forget daily or weekly bubble baths. Pugs do not need to bathe as much as we humans. Unless there is a medical reason why they require frequent bathing e. These oils have natural moisturizing properties and protect the coat from the elements. If you bathe your Pugs too much, you can damage this natural balance, leading to unpleasant symptoms like dry skin and poor coat quality. In between baths, we recommend keeping up with a regular grooming routine. Regular brushing is great for improving coat quality and giving your pet a polished look without reaching for the shampoo. This is a very common question. In the dog world, baths are a love it or hate it ritual. If your Pug hates baths with a passion, then there are some steps you can take to make sure they get clean without any unnecessary trauma on your part or theirs. Make bathtime as pleasant and comfortable as possible with a lukewarm bath. Not too hot, not too cold. Use a soothing voice If your Pug is anxious or restless, keep them calm by using a soothing voice to talk to them. Offer plenty of affection and reassurance. If they like belly rubs, give them belly rubs. If they like being scratched behind the ears, scratch them behind the ears. Make it fun Make bathtime fun by bringing out floating dog toys. This will distract your Pug from any nerves they are feeling and will hopefully keep them entertained whilst you do the work. Reward with a treat Last but not least, have a treat ready to reward your Pug for getting through the process. We all need a little boost from time to time. Your Pug needs a bath. So, what should you do? Use luke-warm water, not hot or cold. If your dog is sensitive to sounds, drawing all of the bath water before you bring your dog into the bath may make it a more positive experience for them. A non-slip mat may help your dog feel more secure while you bathe them. Some people find it helps pugs to stay calm if they put some peanut butter on the side of the tub for their dog to lick while they are bathed. Talk to them calmly and positively throughout the experience to make it more positive. Use a dog-specific shampoo. Better safe than sorry! Use a water-safe brush to make sure your dog gets well-shampooed. We had the kong shampoo brush and liked it. If you have a handheld shower attachment using this can help get a really thorough rinse. Use a washcloth or cotton balls to dry out their ears thoroughly after a bath to avoid infections. Thoroughly dry their face wrinkles to avoid infection or irritation. Otherwise, just keep towel drying them. How Often To Bathe Your Pug Opinions on how often pugs should be bathed vary from about every 3 weeks to only once every six months! You want to bathe your pug before they get stinky, but not so often as to dry out their skin. We bathed our pugs monthly, just before we gave their flea medication. Dog Shampoo For Pugs Use a dog-specific shampoo on your dog rather than a human shampoo or soap. The PH levels of human shampoo are different than those formulated for dogs. For a while we lived in an apartment that only had a stand-up shower, and our pugs really disliked the shower head sprinkling down on them. So we would fill a plastic tote with a couple of inches of water and bathe them in there! You could use your kitchen sink if your pug will stay in place well. Even if you have a full sized bath, you may find that bathing puppies can be easier in a sink. Do Pugs Like Baths? Some pugs may enjoy their baths, but mine both disliked them! Regardless of which pug I bathed first, the one that was not getting bathed first would go hide! Frank knew that if Beans was getting a bath now, he was next, and Beans knew the same if she saw Frank getting a bath first. Beans would huff and sigh when I first put her in the bathtub, but would accept her fate. Frank on the other hand, would shake, wimper and cry throughout his bath usually.

Their coats are both fawn and brindle. Fawn is a yellowish-brown type of color, and the addition of dark stripes to it leads to what is commonly referred to as brindle. If you ever spot a boxer that seems to be black in color, you're probably looking at a sealed brindle specimen. When boxers' classic black stripes overwhelm any fawn elements of their coats, they're often called sealed brindle boxers. While brindle coats are often fawn with darker stripes, they do appear the other way around, too -- with deep brownish basic coats and conspicuously paler streaking. Note that white markings can appear in brindle and fawn boxers alike. Not all boxers have white coloration, however. White markings on boxers typically show up on their feet, faces, stomachs and chests. When boxers have particularly sizable white markings, it gives them a predominantly white look. Thick Stripes The stripes on brindle boxers' coats vary in thickness. Some of them have markedly slender stripes, while others have notably broad ones. A sealed brindle boxer with a black appearance often has an abundance of thick black stripes. When these stripes are so plentiful and thick, they essentially "seal" all of the fawn components out, hence the descriptive naming. When sealed brindle boxers look black, pinpointing any fawn coloration that might be there often becomes a pretty tough task. Black Masks Outside of boxers with primarily black coats, dogs of this jovial, spirited and dedicated breed across the board generally have some black facial coloration. This black coloration, somewhat unsurprisingly, is usually referred to as a "mask. Other Key Coat Details Boxers, regardless of specific coloration, have extremely short hair with a coarse texture. Their coats are also glossy. Significant brushing generally is unnecessary for dogs of the breed. It can, however, keep their coats looking shimmery and healthy. If you want to keep your boxer looking tidy as can be, brush his hair on a daily basis. Boxers tend to enjoy brushing sessions, according to Cari Meister, author of "Boxers. Boxers shed a lot in the spring and autumn months. A Limited amount of "Advance Deposits" will be accepted on each upcoming litter. Once we have reached the limited amount of advance deposits per litter, the litter will read as full. That means no more advance deposits will be accepted for that litter. If you are interested in a litter that says full, please check back once puppies have been delivered to see if there are any available puppies on that litter. If you are truly wanting a Kloud 9 Boxer, we highly recommend placing an advance deposit on one of our upcoming litters. If our litters are full , please check back.Sometimes families move their reservation to an available puppy that we have in our litters which will then open up our upcoming litters. When you see "Expected Month ", the month is based on a projection of when we expect puppies to be born. That rough date may vary as nature takes her course. There is a possibility that the females season will run late which will make the expected litter arrive at a later month. There is also a possibility that the female will come into season a little earlier which then will have her litter be expected earlier. After a breeding has taken place, the date becomes much more specific but is still based on birthing puppies. We will highlight the expected due date in yellow which means that the breeding pair has been bred and we are expecting pups around the yellow highlighted date. So, if you are trying to figure out a rough "take home date" for the future, add two months to the "Highlighted yellow" date.

english golden retriever puppies san diego - Food bowl Treats Make sure you have all the above items before you bring your Golden retriever puppy home so that you can get started crate training him right away. Position The Crate Before you set off to collect your puppy, decide where you want his crate to be. Prepare The Crate Fit the crate with a non-slip crate liner, comfy bed, or crate pad, and put a tempting chew toy inside. Put a bowl of water and a packet of treats close by. Cut a small piece of the blanket and put it in the crate. Keep the rest of the blanket for future use. Let the puppy check out the area around the crate. Curious pups might even voluntarily venture inside the crate! Put a few tempting treats inside the crate, close to the door. Golden retrievers are notoriously food-oriented dogs that will most likely be enticed into the crate by those yummy treats. Never force the puppy into the crate. Chat to your pet, offer him more treats, and add a fun toy to the mix to persuade your furry friend to go into the crate. Generally, placing the crate around people will help to encourage your puppy to feel comfortable spending time inside it. Play Crate Games Crate sessions can be made more enjoyable for your puppy by incorporating some crate games. Use treats, cuddly toys, or a KONG toy stuffed with frozen peanut butter or treats to reward your puppy for entering his crate. Crate Feeding Your Golden Retriever Puppy Golden retrievers are very food-oriented, and you can use that to enhance and speed up the crate training process considerably. Allow your puppy to watch you prepare his meal, and then place the food bowl just inside the crate. Once your puppy is confidently going into the crate to get the food, move the food bowl to the back of the crate. Shut The Door By now, your Golden retriever puppy should view the crate as a safe, comfortable, fun place to be. So, try closing the crate door when your puppy is happily tucking into his food. The first time the door is closed, open it again once your pet has finished eating. At each crate training session, leave the door shut for a little longer. Step Back Away From The Crate Assuming that your crate routine is going well, your Golden retriever puppy should now associate the crate with a couple of treats, toys, games, and eating his meals. A common mistake people make is that they try to move too far away from the puppy too soon. Provided that the puppy is calm, you can now move away from the crate. If your puppy starts whinging, turn your back on your pet, and wait a few minutes until the whining stops. After ten seconds of your pet remaining calm, you can turn around and allow him to come out of the crate. Watch your puppy throughout this exercise, and let your pet out of the crate as soon as he shows signs of anxiety. Very young puppies aged up to ten weeks old will need to relieve themselves immediately after a meal. Potty Breaks When you begin your crate training puppy schedule , observe your pet closely for tell-tale signs that he needs to go potty. Generally, puppies will start whining, circling, and sniffing the ground when they need to relieve themselves. When that happens, immediately grab your puppy, and get him to his assigned toilet spot. Eight-week-old puppies typically need to go for a pee around every 30 to 60 minutes. During warm weather or after exercise, when the puppy drinks more, he might need to go more often than that. Once the puppy is older, he will be able to wait for longer between potty stops. What About Bedtime? The safest place for your puppy to spend the night is confined in his crate. Although your pup might experience a bit of separation anxiety from bedtime crating at first, you can help to mitigate that by putting the crate in your bedroom with you. Use a crate cover to create that safe, den-like space that encourages your canine companion to settle down and sleep. Sometimes, giving your Golden retriever puppy a special treat reserved for bedtime can help him understand that his crate is a comfortable space to spend the night. Expect Disturbed Nights! When your puppy is very young, you can expect to be disturbed by his cries for attention during the night. Dogs are clean animals, and they will resist soiling their sleeping area if at all possible. So, set your alarm to wake you up every couple of hours throughout the night so that you can take your puppy outside to relieve himself. Immediately Clean Up Accidents Unfortunately, dealing with potty accidents is all part and parcel of raising and training a new puppy. When that happens, never punish or scold your pup. When accidents happen around your home, use an enzyme cleaner to remove the scent of urine from your floor coverings. If your puppy has an accident in his crate, you must wash all the bedding immediately. Ensure that you have a good supply of spare bedding to grab if you need it, and clean the crate thoroughly to remove any lingering smell of urine. Golden retrievers are especially quick at remembering simple words, and these trainable dogs are typically pretty obedient. So, from the get-go, you need to begin using verbal cues. Pick short and clear words so that your puppy can easily recognize and remember them. Combine your cue words with crate training. Increase The Difficulty As crate training progresses, you can make things more challenging for your puppy. Ask your dog to stay in the crate with the door closed for longer periods, and begin to move out of sight. Just like little kids, puppies will throw tantrums during the first few days of crate training. That behavior is perfectly normal and to be expected, especially when you first close the crate door. Instead, reward calm behavior with treats verbal praise, and let your puppy come out of the crate. So, when a tantrum kicks off, simply turn your back on your furry friend, and wait until he settles down again. Consistency Is Crucial! One of the most common problems people experience when crate training their puppy is not being consistent. Yes, it can be tough when your adorable fluffy bundle is crying and whining inside his crate. Unfortunately, giving in to your fur baby when he complains simply teaches your pet that whining and other bad behavior get him what he wants, which sets your training regimen back. Playtime Is Vital A lively Golden retriever puppy bursting with energy is not likely to settle calmly in his crate. Final Thoughts I hope you enjoyed our guide to crate training a Golden retriever puppy. If you did, please remember to share it. Crates are also useful tools for potty training your puppy and preventing bad behavior, such as chewing and eating harmful substances. Always be consistent and patient when crate training your puppy; use cue words and positive reinforcement to make learning fun for both your pet and you. Did you use a crate to train your Golden retriever puppy? Tell us how you did in the comments box below. Meet our writer Alison Page Alison Page was brought up with dogs and various other pets! For a few years, Alison worked as a Practice Manager in a small animal veterinary clinic. Alison is now a full-time writer, specializing in creating articles on the care and training of dogs, cats, and fish. Leave a Comment. Key Takeaways Crate training can help you provide a safe and comfortable environment for your Golden Retriever. Avoid rushing the crate training process to ensure your dog feels comfortable and secure. Please do not use the crate as a punishment or leave your dog in it for extended periods. Crate training can be more effective and enjoyable for your dog if you use consistency, positive reinforcement, treats, and toys. Make it more comfortable by providing toys, blankets, and treats. Step 2: Once your pup is at ease, close the door and bring toys and treats inside. Keep an eye on them and let them out if they become distressed. Step 3: Increase the time your puppy spends in the crate with the door closed gradually, and step away from the crate while they are distracted. Step 4: Extend the time you are away from the crate. Selecting The Right Crate Size To ensure your Golden Retriever is comfortable and has enough space in their crate, you need to measure them accurately. Golden Retrievers will typically grow to by 20 to 24 inches tall and up to 75 lbs, so you need to make sure to get them the right size crate. Follow these steps to determine the size of your dog: 1. Measure the height of your Golden Retriever: Have your dog stand up straight, Measure from the floor to the top of their shoulder blades. Add around inches to this measurement to determine the minimum height for the crate. Measure the length of your dog from the tip of their nose to the base of their tail. Remember to add 2 to 4 inches to the measurement. Measure their width by having your Golden Retriever standing with their legs slightly apart. Focus your attention on the widest part of their body, which tends to be the chest area. Once again, always add up to 4 inches to the figure. Finally, you want to consider the age of your Golden Retriever. For example, if you have a puppy, keep in mind that they will grow rapidly. You may want to choose a crate that will work for their adult size or opt for an adjustable crate with dividers, so you can gradually increase the space as they grow. Your Golden Retriever puppy will rapidly outgrow a nice crate that is not suited for an adult size. Now that you have all the measurements, you can refer to this Crate Size Calculator to find out the right and best dog crate size for your golden retriever. What Is Crate Training? Crate training is the process of teaching a dog to accept a crate as a familiar and safe location. Here are some of the reasons: House training: Using a crate, you can help your dog learn where and when to go potty. This will make house training more effortless and less stressful for both of you. Safe space: A crate can be a relaxing and safe place for your dog to relax and sleep. It can also help keep your dog out of a mess by preventing them from chewing on inappropriate items or getting into dangerous substances. Traveling: Whether driving or flying across the country, a crate can help keep your dog safe and comfortable. Additionally, many hotels and other accommodations allow crate-trained dogs. Separation anxiety: A crate can provide security and comfort if your dog gets anxious when you leave. Knowing they have a safe place to go can help alleviate their anxiety and make their time away from home less stressful. Overall, crate training is an excellent way to provide your dog with a secure and comfortable environment to call their own. You should start crate training your puppy when you bring them home. However, with patience and positive reinforcement, an older dog can be trained to use a crate. Crate training can be a helpful way to provide a safe and comfortable space for your Golden Retriever to rest and relax, but it should never be used as a form of punishment or confinement. When done responsibly and positively, crate training can be a positive and effective method for you and your Golden Retriever. However, with time, consistency, and positive reinforcement, you can help your dog get used to his crate. Add treats, toys, and blankets to the crate to make it more inviting. Increasing the time your dog spends in the crate gradually is crucial. Remember that crate training should be enjoyable for you and your Golden Retriever. You can quickly make your furry friend feel safe and secure in their crate with a little effort! Benefits Of Crate Training Your Golden Retriever Crate training can be super helpful for your furry friend and offer them a bunch of benefits, such as: Prevents Destructive Behavior: By giving your Golden Retriever a cozy and secure space, crate training can prevent them from chewing, digging, or scratching on household items. Potty Training: Crate training can teach your Golden Retriever to associate the crate with their den, making it easier to hold their bladder and bowels until you take them outside. Prepares Them For Travel: If you need to take your Golden Retriever on a trip, crate training can help them feel comfortable and secure while in transit. Crate training is a great way to help your Golden Retriever feel safe, secure, and comfortable while preventing destructive behavior and keeping them healthy and happy. Adult dogs: They can handle up to 8 hours in a crate, ideally with a break in the middle. Overnight: Many dogs can stay in a crate overnight without issues. Always ensure that any time in the crate is a positive experience for the dog, supplemented by regular breaks, exercise, and playtime outside of the crate. The shift is a delicate balance of patience, supervision, and positive reinforcement. Gradual Exploration Start by letting your dog explore a restricted, safe space under supervision. As comfort grows, extend the time they spend outside the crate. Monitor and Supervise Observe your dog closely during early freedom stages to prevent accidents or mischief. Ensure your home is dog-proofed to minimize potential hazards. Essential Amenities Keep their water bowl accessible. Designate a comfortable resting spot outside the crate. Positive Reinforcement Reward good behavior with treats or praise. This encourages adherence to house rules and reinforces desired behavior. Display patience and affection throughout their transition. With time and consistent guidance, your furry friend will seamlessly integrate into the household, striking a balance between freedom and behavior. Before leaving your dog alone in the crate, be patient and make sure your furry friend is comfortable and safe. For them, the crate should be a positive and safe space, and associating it with negative experiences can cause anxiety and fear. While some time in the crate is acceptable, providing sufficient opportunities for exercise, socialization , and bathroom breaks throughout the day is essential. Maintain a consistent routine and use the same commands each time you place your dog in the crate. Use Toys And Treats: Place toys and treats inside the crate to entice your dog to enter. This will make the crate a more positive and enjoyable environment for them to be in. Ensure your pup gets enough exercise and playtime throughout the day, so your furry companion can relax in the crate when the time comes. Excessive whining, barking, panting, and restlessness are all signs of stress in a Golden Retriever. If your furry friend exhibits these behaviors in the crate, they may be too stressed. Can I use a crate for my adult golden retriever? Yes, as long as it is appropriately sized and they are comfortable in it, you can use a crate for your adult Golden Retriever. Can you leave a puppy crying in the crate? Leaving a crying puppy in the crate is not recommended because it can cause separation anxiety and other behavioral problems. Instead, it is critical to gradually acclimate them to the crate and create a positive and comfortable environment. Should you put a blanket over a dog crate? Yes, draping a blanket over a dog crate can provide a sense of security and darkness, but ensure proper ventilation is maintained. What age is too late to train a puppy? Galen has been connecting quality Golden Retriever breeders with loving families since and is the founder of My Golden Retriever Puppies. He and his wife have four children and love spending time together, traveling lived oversees for 4 years , enjoying the outdoors and connecting Golden families. Be the first to know when we have new puppies! All Rights Reserved. Want to learn how to crate train your golden retriever puppy fast? Crate training is one of the best things you can do for your puppy. It helps accelerate potty training, it keeps them safe, and it helps keep them from learning bad habits like chewing up shoes. Read this article to learn more about potty training your golden retriever puppy. When I was a kid I hated vegetables. I just wanted fries and chicken nuggets. But what did my parents do? They made me eat veggies a little at a time until I got used to them. And then after I got used to them, I learned to love them. Now as an adult, I would much rather prefer a pile of grilled zucchini, broccoli, and asparagus than a plateful of fries. Crate training your golden retriever follows a similar pattern. But the following steps are going to teach you how to teach them to love their crate and handle being alone. The wire crate helped because it was open so he could always see the people around him, which lessened his anxiety of being in there alone at first. Step 2: Get The Crate Ready This is another step that you will have ideally done before you bring your puppy home. The first thing to consider when getting the crate ready for your pup is where to put it. Here are a few options: In your bedroom In the living room or other area where people in your home hang out Get two crates and have one in your bedroom and one in the living room Golden retrievers love being around people, so having their crate around people will usually help ease some of the pain of crate training. This will usually help with the loneliness and crying. The other thing to consider when getting the crate ready is what to put in it. You also may want to put a bed in there to make it comfortable for them. So how do you do that? First, they need to decide to go into the crate themselves. You can do that by putting a favorite toy in the crate, or scattering food in there. Expect them to walk in and right back out the first time. You want to make it so that they know fun things are in the crate. Check out the video below for a fun crate training game to help your puppy learn to love their crate. Walk out of the room for a second, then come back in. Then walk out for five seconds, then ten seconds. These next few sections will answer some common questions that new puppy owners have, as well as some tips to help the process go smoothly. Putting your puppy in the crate with a full bladder is one way you can set them up to fail. Also, frozen kongs or chew toys with peanut butter work great for easing your puppy into getting comfortable in their crate by themselves. That means that a two-month-old puppy can only hold it for about two to three hours, so expect to have to wake up two or three times every night until they get a little older. Take the water bowl away about two or three hours before bedtime so that your puppy will have time to fully empty their bladder before going to sleep for the night. Get them sufficiently tired during the day. Play games like tug, fetch or chase to physically wear them out, and train them and give them puzzle toys like frozen kongs to mentally wear them out. Set an alarm to wake yourself up before they wake up themselves. This is a tough situation, but it can be done. Here are some tips to make it work. You may have to come home on your lunch break, ask friends, family, or neighbors to come over, or hire a dog walker to let your puppy out. Wear them out in the mornings Go on walks, play chase, fetch and tug, or wrestle with them in the mornings to get some of their endless energy out. Utilize an exercise pen You might want to consider getting an exercise pen like this one from Amazon and circling it around the front of the crate to give your dog some extra room. Check out the video below for an example of what a crate looks like with an exercise pen attached for extra space. Does she need to pee? Is she full of energy? Or does she just want to get out and get some attention? Remember to set them up for success before you put them in crate, meaning physically and mentally tiring them out and making sure their bladder is empty. You can also leave for short periods of time starting at seconds , then come back and let her out. How long it takes for your puppy to get used to the crate depends. Did you rush them into it, or did you let them learn that the crate is awesome? Have you been rewarding them for barking in it, or have they learned that silence is what gets them out of the crate? It also depends on the dog. Some dogs take to crates much better than others. You can do it! Is Crate Training Ever Over? We started leaving him alone in the house somewhere around six months old, and then a few months after that we started letting him sleep outside of his crate he decided to sleep under the toilet… weird dude. Two big questions to ask yourself when considering taking this next step are: When was the last time my puppy had an accident in the house? When was the last time my puppy chewed something up in the house? Just like with crate training, you want to take baby steps and set them up for success. Crate Training Mistakes While all of the tips above will help make crate training go smoothly, the mistakes below can ruin your efforts, or at least make it very hard to get them to relax in their crate. Mistake 2: Rushing crate training Crate training takes time. Would you want to go in an unfamiliar box in an unfamiliar house? They need to learn that the crate is fun, safe, and relaxing, and that takes time. This leads us to the next mistake… Mistake 4: Punishing them for crying in the crate If a puppy is crying in the crate because they want attention, they might perceive you yelling at them as attention. Mistake 6: Using the crate too much Golden retrievers are lovers. Conclusion Crate training is one of the best things you can do for your puppy. Have any questions about crate training? Or have any other tips for new puppy owners? Let me know in the comments below! Related articles:. Read the full disclosure here. I know that, and eventually, your dog will know that, too. In this article you will learn exactly how to crate train a puppy or dog, no matter their age or level of previous training. You should read the whole guide before starting, to gain a complete understanding of the process, including the tips and troubleshooting at the end so you can find the speediest success. Why do we do this? We do this so we can use the crate as a place for short-term confinement, to keep our dogs and our belongings safe when we cannot supervise them. Then we can confine them short-term when needed, and they are happy to do so. Yes, they can even enjoy their time in the crate! In contrast: A properly crate trained dog will enjoy time in there happily and stress-free, even relishing the chance to get down to some occupational chew toy time or just to chill out and relax. Dog obedience is key to get this result! Benefits such as: Dramatically speeding up house training. Giving your dog a cozy and comfortable place to call their own where they can sleep and relax, overnight or whenever they wish. Giving you a tool to use for managing problem behaviors or to use for time outs to calm your puppy when needed. Giving you a safe way to transport your dog both by car and air if the need should arise. So they can enjoy trips away and holidays with you. Preparing your puppy for boarding at the vets, a kennel or at home to recover after medical treatment. There are many benefits to using a crate when used correctly, but they can also be misused. And there are also times when you should never crate a dog, regardless of their age or how much or little they can be trusted: Times And Ways That You Should Not Use A Crate There are a small number of dogs that suffer true anxiety and panic when placed in a crate. Under no circumstances should these dogs be crated…ever! The signs you need to look out for are: Any damage to the crate that show signs of attempting to escape. Urinating or defecating in the crate. The crate has moved at all while your dog is inside they must have made some frantic movements for this to happen. Never if your dog has sickness or diarrhea. Never when the weather is extremely hot. Never for any time longer than 5 hours. Not any time your vet prohibits it for medical reasons. Never as a way to punish your dog or for punishment. Use obedience training to correct bad behavior instead. Crating your dog for any of the reasons above is either inhumane, dangerous or purely selfish. Getting Prepared Before you can start crate training, you obviously need a crate. But you also need to make it a comfortable and happy place for your dog. Choosing A Crate Dog sleeping in crate There are many different sizes and style of dog crates available, from tiny inch crates all the way up to inch and bigger! XXL heavy duty dog crates. There are wire dog crates , plastic, fabric and even high quality wooden crates that look just like pieces of furniture. But the most important aspect of the crate you choose is its size: Too small and it would be cruel to expect your dog or puppy to spend time in there Too large and it loses the den like feeling dogs crave, not to mention they can use one end to sleep in while using the other end as a toilet, so it loses its effectiveness. For detailed instructions on measuring your dog for a crate and selecting the right size and type to suit your needs, please see my article: Choosing The Right Size And Type Of Dog Crate 2. Making The Crate Comfortable And Safe Dog In Soft Crate After choosing the right crate, you then have to make it a comfortable, safe and pleasant place for your puppy or dog to love spending time. For a detailed guide on where to place your crate and what you should put in it, you can read my article on: How to make a crate comfortable and safe for your dog. Make sure the crate is out of any direct sunlight, away from heat sources like fireplaces or radiators, and away from any possible cold drafts. Place soft, comfortable bedding inside. Place 2 or more chew toys inside to keep them occupied and develop good chew toy habits. If you have a wire crate, cover it either with a purpose bought crate cover or an old blanket or towel. Following the above 5 tips ensures the crate is a nice comfortable place for your dog. These pose a risk of choking if they happen to snag on anything, so no collars or leashes allowed. Your dog or puppy must be completely naked when crated. You must not rush through and you must make sure you are successful at each stage before you move on to the next, otherwise you could end up causing your dog or puppy to hate the crate by leaving them crated before they are ready. This unfamiliar box can be scary! The ultimate goal is for them to use it voluntarily. So the first task you have on the journey to crate training your puppy or dog is to form in their mind an association between the crate and all the things that they enjoy in life, so they see the crate as a good thing. Fail at this and you could saddle yourself with a dog who hates the crate, refuses to use it and maybe even fears it which can be a very hard thing to undo. So how do you go about achieving this? Technique 1: Magically Appearing Toys And Treats Set up the crate before you bring your dog home or if you have an existing pet, assemble the crate without them seeing so it just magically appears. Now let your dog or puppy into the room. So what should you do? Just act as you normally would, do what you would normally do. Play with your dog or puppy, or sit and watch TV, just act normal. Hopefully they will investigate this new thing in their world, enticed by the treats around and inside it, but also out of plain curiosity. Just draw no attention to the crate at all. Every dog will eventually at least eat the treats around the crate, if not the ones inside. This has the effect of the most prized things in their life being magically conjured up by the crate. Do this for a couple of days or more before you start crate training, and then occasionally for the few weeks after starting so your dog learns to love the crate and what it provides. You should find after a very short time they venture into the crate on their own just to look for some goodies, all without any encouragement from you. NOTE: Any treats you give this way have to be subtracted from their daily food portions or they will be overeating. And I say to do this just for the first few days and then only occasionally because to help house training you want your puppy eating on a schedule to promote defecating on a schedule, not eating at random times and pooping at random times. Feed these meals inside the crate. At first, place their food bowl just inside so they only have to poke their head in to feed. Then after the first couple of times, place it half way into the crate. After a couple of times of this, place it all the way at the back. You might be successful with this right away, or you may have to place it at the front for a few meals over a few days. Some dogs confidence builds quicker than others. Eventually and not before too long you should find your dog expectantly running over to and maybe even into the crate every time they see you holding their food bowl. After a few days of magic appearing treats and your dog eating dinner from the crate, basically once they are used to the crate and associate good things with it, we are ready to start crate training. When you do release your dog you do not want them bolting out and bumping into you, particularly important if you have a large dog such as a Golden Retriever that can easily bowl you over on their way past! You want them to reliably leave the crate when you ask. You can only achieve these three things if your dog understands that they must stay inside until told they can leave, or must leave when they hear the cue word. Choose whatever words you like, just be consistent. You do not want to spook your dog at this stage. Sit close to the crate armed with some high value treats, show them to your dog and then throw one inside the crate. Move away so they can easily exit and just stand patiently and quietly waiting for them to do so. Repeat this 8 to 10 times then take a couple of minutes break. Then do another set of 8 to .Yes, for real. Repeat this whole exercise a few times over the course of a day or two until your dog is comfortably, happily and reliably going in the crate when you throw in a treat. Training your dog to do this is a huge step! Make sure they really are confidently going in to get the treat before moving to the next step. And remember to use your cue words every single time so they quickly learn them. Step 3: No Treat For Free! The next step is to ask your puppy or dog into the crate before you treat them. Make them work for the treat instead of using it to lure them into the crate. To start, do 2 or 3 exercises of throwing a treat in and using the cue word as they go in to get it. When they do, give them a treat or two while you praise them profusely. Then use the cue word to leave and praise them when they do. Repeat this 8 to 10 times, take a couple of minutes break, then do another 8 to 10 before finishing up for this session. Repeat this step many times over the course of a day or two until you are certain your puppy or dog truly understands the commands and is happy to both go into and leave the crate on cue before you move to step 4. Now, many of you will have a dog at this stage that goes in, gets the treat or their toys and cannot wait to get back out again. But some will already be sitting, laying and sleeping in the crate of their own accord. Regardless though, what you want to achieve is your puppy or dog to sit and lie in the crate on cue, which is different to doing it of their own accord. Begin this just a couple of days after getting them home because they need to understand the cues outside of the crate before you can hope to have them follow the commands inside it. Other things you should have been doing before this step are: feeding your dog or puppy their main meals inside the crate occasionally leaving stuffed Kong toys in the crate this gets them used to spending time in there, usually in a sitting or laying position this will have made things easier Now, run through 2 or 3 repetitions of steps 2 and 3 before you start step 4, always remembering to use your chosen cues! Next, when your dog is inside the crate: Simply cue them to sit, praise and reward them profusely when they do. Then ask for a down and do the same. Then cue them to leave the crate before repeating the exercise. Try this 8 to 10 times before a few minutes break, then repeat for 8 to 10 times more. Repeat this whole step a few times over a day or more, but as you repeat the exercises, ask them to stay sitting or lying down for longer periods before you release them. And you should vary the duration to keep them guessing what it takes to earn a treat. Try just 1 second, then 5, then 2, then 10, then 3 and so on. Try to stretch the time out over a few practice sessions. Remember to be gentle and that your tone of voice throughout training matters. As always: Start with 2 or 3 repetitions of the easier steps first, going through steps 3 and 4 before trying to close the door. When ready: Cue your dog to go into the crate, praise and treat them, then ask for a sit, praise and treat and then slowly close the door. You ask for a sit because this position is automatically a more calm and relaxed position than standing. Continue to praise your dog and give a couple of treats through the closed door for remaining calm and sitting. Then open the door, and cue them to leave the crate. If your dog looks fearful or panicked when you close the door some will! Start by closing the door just part way for a few repetitions, then half way for a few, then most the way before finally closing it fully. This may take one training session or a few over days. Are you ready to move on? Once your dog is happy to sit a few seconds with the door closed, begin to latch it. Praise and treat for calm, then release the latch and open the door. For a training session, do 8 to 10 reps, take a few minutes break and then repeat. During each set, vary the time they have to stay calm and sitting, 3 seconds, then 10, then 4, then 15 and so on. You should aim to extend the time they stay calm and sitting with the door closed to a full minute before moving on to the next step. Again, this could take an afternoon, or it might take a few days. Go at your dogs pace and never force things. The base is serving as a staging facility for hurricane relief operations. Air Force photo by Master Sgt. Jack Braden Once your puppy or dog can sit calmly in the crate with the door closed for a full minute, the next step is to start moving away with the ultimate aim of being able to leave the room. First of all, perform a few reps of steps 4 and 5 as a warm up, remembering to always use your cues. Next, follow these steps: Cue your dog into the crate, close the door, latch it, praise and reward them and take a couple of steps backwards away from the crate but still facing it. Then return, praise and reward. Open the door and cue your dog to come out. Do this exercise 8 to 10 times, then take a few minutes break and repeat. For each repetition, mix things up: Try walking away a different distance in a different direction, but remaining in the room. First 2 steps backwards and pause 5 seconds before returning, then 4 steps to the side and a 15 second pause and so on. Work up to walking right to the exit or the wall and pausing for a full minute. Next, you will want to amp things up even more: Perform this exercise while you actively walk around the room, looking busy doing other things, but return to praise and treat your dog often. Tidy some magazines, rustle through a drawer, just look busy doing other things a few times in the house. Then, go even farther: Perform this exercise but back yourself up to the exit of the room and leave for just a couple of seconds before returning and heading to the crate to treat and praise. Do this a few times. The time this takes and the success you have will vary from puppy to puppy and dog to dog. Always stop at 10 repetitions max, and never more than two batches in quick succession followed by a big break. Otherwise your dog will get bored and the training is less effective. Now you just need to start increasing the time they are happy to spend time alone. Before you begin, something that goes a long way toward helping is to make sure your puppy or dog is well exercised before asking them into the crate. Why is that? A tired dog will be far more willing to relax and chill out for a length of time, compared to one who is full of energy and keen to play or wanting attention! After exercising them, the first step is to increase the time they are happy to spend in the crate while you are still nearby. To achieve this: Crate feeding: Feed your dog in the crate, or give them a stuffed Kong toy or good tasting bone chew toy. Hang out nearby: Ask your dog into the crate, give them their food or the toy, then close the door and take a seat nearby to read a book or a magazine. Engage occasionally: Every now and then, give them a further treat and praise, then go back to your book or magazine. Gradual build: Try to work up to a good half hour of quiet and calm in the crate while you read and they chew. Ignore them: After a couple of times like this, crate your dog or puppy with their meal or a stuffed toy and move around the room busying yourself, paying little attention to your dog. You want them to be eating their meal or chewing a toy in the locked crate while you do other things. Leave the room: After a couple of repetitions of this, repeat the exercise but move freely in and out of the room a few times, as well as occasionally sitting nearby. Disappear: Start by leaving the room for only 5 or 10 minutes, extending the time over a few sessions until you eventually achieve a full hour of alone time. As always, how long this takes will vary wildly from puppy to puppy and dog to dog. Go at their pace. It helps massively to succeed in this step if you only ever give your puppy or dog the bone chew toys or stuffed Kongs when in the crate and never outside of it. It builds excitement and anticipation, something to look forward to in the crate. Step 8: The Grand Finale! Wait for them to start chewing and then leave and come back into the room a couple of times. If they stay calm and pre-occupied with their chewing, simply leave the house. Then, do this: Go outside and walk to the bottom of your garden, just hang there for a few minutes and then go back inside and walk around your home for a couple of minutes before going to the crate and your dog. You want them to think that this is nothing, a complete non-event. And certainly do not go straight to them when you come back in. Remember: this even means nothing! From now on, practice alone time in the crate when you leave the house at least a couple of times every day, for varying lengths of time. Never make a fuss of any sort before you go, never make a fuss on your return. Over a few sessions, build up the time you are out of the house with your dog in the crate to a couple of hours as long as they are old enough to hold their bladder this long. You can now use the crate to keep your dog and your belongings safe when you cannot supervise them, and use the crate as a sleeping place for your dog at night. Always leave a few toys in there with your dog, and continue to repeat the exercise where you crate them with a stuffed Kong or chew toy if natural opportunities do not arise, just to keep them happy with the situation. If you have a dog that: Some puppies will take regular naps in the crate before you even start crate training. They might go on to show little interest or care about the door being closed. They might be super confident and happy right away with a little alone time. You might be able to crate train such a dog in just a few short days. Dogs like this can take many weeks to crate train: Some puppies may show fear of the crate and not want to go anywhere near it. Once carefully trained to go in, they might feel panic and fear when you close the door. You have to go at your own dogs pace because if you rush them you can instill dislike or even fear of the crate in their minds, and then it will take far longer than it ever should have. But many or most dogs will take to it quicker, and most puppies certainly will as they have no preconceived ideas, habits or emotions to overcome. When going through the steps above, if your dog excels at any stage you can quickly move to the next step. If they do not, if they show any fear or uncertainty, spend more time at a particular step until they are comfortable before moving on. Your dog will show you when they are ready to progress and you should go at their speed, however fast or slow that may be. They need to be able to: move around exercise their muscles enjoy some mental stimulation If they are regularly crated longer than this, behavioral problems will be the result, as well as the fact they have little in the way of a fulfilling life. In my experience this is a bit optimistic, all dogs are different and when a puppy is very young, this is certainly too long. This is with the exception of puppies from 8 to 12 weeks old who will need letting out once during the night. But after 12 weeks, they can last the whole night through. Crating your dog when you work full-time means two lots of 4 or more hours crated and this is a long time, so quality time, exercise and stimulation before and after crating is essential. Tips For Better Crate Training What follows are a few useful tips to keep in mind when crate training your puppy or dog. They will make the process easier and faster, while making sure your dog is comfortable and happy throughout the process: Always make sure you take your puppy or dog to their bathroom spot before you crate them for any length time. They will be uncomfortable and noisily complain with a full bladder…but rightfully so! Also take them the moment you let them out as they will usually be ready to go. Make sure the crate door is always open and your dog always has access to it so they can use it as and when they please. Most dogs will use it as a place to rest and this is a good thing. Always leave chew toys in the crate for your dog so there is something for them to do while crated. This will minimize boredom and teaches good habits of chewing on the right things. Continue to feed them their meals in the crate. Also, reserve special treats like bones and stuffed Kong toys for the crate only and never outside of it, so they really look forward to spending time there. Exercise your dog or puppy well before crating them for any length of time. A tired dog is one who is happy to relax and chill out. If you find your puppy nodding off and completely unable to stay awake this happens a lot! This will speed up their acceptance of the crate considerably if they snooze and find themselves waking up in there often. The worst thing you can do is force them in because chances are it will heighten their fear and make things even worse. Instead, break the task down into easier steps for your dog by employing some of the following tasks: Practice asking your dog to step in and out of cardboard boxes. First trimming the sides down to look like a small tray, then using further boxes and increasing height of the sides. Place bedding in the box and practice asking them to lay down. Some dogs may not like the roof aspect of the crate. Ask your dog to step underneath, even sit under there yourself and read a book while enticing them over for treats. Start with a big gap and a wide area covered, then lessen the gap between furniture in later training sessions to make it feel more crate like over time. If you have a plastic travel style crate airline crate then remove the top half and practice having them step in and out of the bottom half only. Start asking your dog to step into the bottom tray only. Then put on 2 of the walls for a couple of training sessions. Then three walls for a few sessions. Then the roof until finally the crate is fully assembled. Then cover the back third of the pens roof with a sheet and do the same. Then cover a half. Then remove a part of the pen to make the area smaller and ask them in to play with them. Whichever of the above you try, make sure an exit is wide open and easy for your dog to use for escape so they will feel less anxious. And take things very slowly, making sure they are visibly comfortable at any stage before taking a next step. After a few days maybe more of slowly getting them used to stepping into things that progressively get more and more crate like, you should be able to begin crate training. This type of reinforcement will not help the cries. Yes, you getting angry and telling your dog off will actually make the issue worse. This will train them to think that if they cry long and loud enough, you will eventually come and let them out. Not a good idea. Wait for 5 seconds silence before you approach, then give them a treat. You ruined it! Wait for at least 5 seconds of silence before you return, then treat them. Enough repetitions of this will teach them that silence gets rewarded and noise makes you go away. Why did they whine? You might want to go back a step or two in your crate training though. Make sure they are comfortably happy and silent in the crate, for a reasonable length of time with the door latched and you present, before you ever try to leave them alone. Young puppies cannot hold it through the night without having a potty break. But how do you know if the whines are because they need to eliminate or just crying for attention? For a puppy 8 to 9 weeks old, you will need to set an alarm to take them to potty twice during the night, at 2. For a puppy 9 to 12 weeks old, set an alarm to take them to potty half way through the night, 3. Make sure you do not feed them anything in the 3 hours before bed, take away water at least 2 hours before bed, and take them to their toilet spot to empty themselves as the very last thing you do before you go to bed. When you take them to potty, make sure you do so in silence. No playing, no words, no attention, otherwise they will learn that night-time is a time for play and attention. You obviously do not want this. They are very different things. But if when you leave your dog alone crated they show these symptoms: anxiety. Dublin during one of his first puppy crate training sessions. When it comes to crate training puppies every puppy is different. Stetson was an extreme case and after those four weeks of pure torture, much to my joy he went totally silent and would sleep in the crate all morning without a peep. Dublin was on the other end of the spectrum and only had a couple of nights whimpering before he began sleeping through the night. Our wire crate is collapsible making it easier to store and travel with. The wire-style crate circulates air better and gives us an option of either leaving it open or covering it with a blanket to make it more like a den. As a guide dog puppy raiser, we are given exact steps on how to crate train our puppies. When properly used, the crate becomes a security blanket, a place where the puppy can retreat to escape the household confusion and to feel secure. Never use the crate as a form of punishment! Zoom Zoom! Crate Training your Golden Retriever puppy. The dog crate should offer a positive, secure environment, and a calming zone. The crate can be effective for in-house training. Confined to a crate, an unattended puppy cannot destroy or soil anything. Do not crate the puppy during the day for more than 3 hours. Start crate training your puppy on his first night. Place the crate in your bedroom where the puppy can still see and hear what is going on. Put a blanket or towel in the crate for bedding. It worked great with our most recent golden retriever puppy, Charlie. A pup will rarely soil the crate, however, if he does, try removing the bedding. A crate should not be too big, but large enough for the puppy to stand stretch, and turn around. If he should happen to fall asleep somewhere else, pick him up and place him inside, and quietly shut the door. Do not hesitate to periodically use the crate, even while you are home. You may feed the puppy in his crate and give him some favorite toys, to keep the experience positive. We feed all of our pups Wellness Core Puppy Food. Working on crate training — Puppy Paws! When it comes time to put your pup in his crate leave the toy or blanket in the crate with the scent of his litter mates this may help your pup sleep better at night. This worked well with Dublin. As soon as he finishes up his business take him straight back to his crate without any playtime or other distractions. Feed Your Puppy Early Make sure you feed him at least an hour and a half before bedtime. Play With Your Puppy Before Bedtime Play with your puppy for an extended period of time just before bedtime to tire him out. A good game of fetch always works well with our pups. Put Your Crate Next To Your Bed Put your crate near the bed we swapped out our nightstands for crates where your puppy can see you and if he starts crying hang your arm down so he can smell your scent. This worked with my rescue puppy, Linus. I slept on the floor next to the crate in my sleeping bag and Linus stopped barking. This will make your puppy more comfortable when he enters the crate. Be careful. Super durable toys like the Nylabone DuraChew have worked well for us in the past. Try doing this with the door open and closed. Lie Next To The Crate With The Door Open Try leaving the door open but lying down across the doorway of the crate as if to nap with him, to make him feel more comfortable in the crate, and at the same time make your body block the doorway. You might try that instead of purchasing a Calmeroos Puppy. It may help soothe your puppy to sleep and save you a few bucks. Just make sure you monitor your pup if you give him a chew he can consume like a Bully Stick. There are many different toys that are designed to help your puppy get used to the crate. Why not try filling a water bottle up with warm water and putting it inside a thick comfy sock extra points if you rub the sock on littermates and mama to get their scent. Hey…you do what you can with the things you have around the house. He is 8 wks and boy has he reminded us how much older we are now. It never occurred to us to use soothing music to help our pups get used to their crate and new environment. Thank you K. Most will calm down after that time. As soon as our puppy is calm we give him praise. However, as I said it depends on your puppy. In this case, we try to take a slower approach to introducing our puppy to the crate. He has to go potty. Most puppies will calm down and stop barking within this time frame. Wait until he stops for at least a split second before you open the door. No Bueno. A Calmeroos Puppy Heartbeat Toy and a blanket. If we have a destructive puppy then we may not want to have anything in the crate. If our puppy is having potty accidents in the crate then we take out the blanket. In our experience, most puppies stop barking in the crate at night after the first days. However, there have been outliers. Our first guide dog puppy, Stetson took four weeks before he stopped barking in the crate at night. On the flip side, our English Cream Golden Retriever pup, Charlie never barked in his crate at night. Puppies will often adjust to their crates based on past experiences. A responsible breeder may have already started crate training puppies before going to their homes. A puppy rescued from a shelter may not have known anything other than the kennel run he grew up in. It depends, every puppy is different. Conclusion Those are my best tips and trick for getting your puppy to stop barking in the crate along with answers to some of the most common questions we get about puppies barking in their crates. How about you guys? Do you have any tips or tricks on how to stop a puppy from barking in his crate? Is this one of your first nights home with your new puppy? Also, we recently put together our New Puppy Checklist detailing all the products we recommend for new puppy owners. It has been updated with new information based on our experiences over the years. Helps ease anxiety in their new home. We love using Bully Sticks to help divert these unwanted behaviors. Check out more of our favorites on our New Puppy Checklist. Colby Colby Morita has been raising and training guide and service dog puppies for over 13 years. Colby has been writing to the PuppyInTraining.


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english golden retriever puppies san diego - It might be tricky trying to predict the color of a Labradoodle pup, as this is greatly determined by their genetics. Labrador Retriever Colors Labrador Retrievers usually come in all solid colors. Most common ones include yellow, black, chocolate, red, white, and silver. Some of the more rare Labrador Retriever colors are, in fact, color combinations. These include black with white markings on the chest, black and tan, or brindle. The most common colors we see on Poodles are black, blue, silver, gray, white, brown, cream, apricot, silver beige, red, and cafe au lait. Additionally, some Poodles can also come in a variety of color combinations like black and brown, black and tan, black and apricot, black and cream, brown and apricot, brown and white, and many others. Labradoodle Color Chart Labradoodles come in all shapes and sizes, coat types, and colors. Apricot Labradoodles have a rich colored coat resembling the inside of a ripe apricot. Hence the name apricot Labradoodle. Apricot Labradoodles usually have a black nose and their hair color is typically the same throughout the coat. However, apricot Labradoodles may change color over time. Some pups fade lighter as they age and some are born with a cream coat that becomes darker over time. A red Labradoodle falls in a similar tone category as an apricot Labradoodle, but they have a much richer pigment and a distinctive red hue to their coat. Similarly to apricot Labradoodles, red Labradoodles might fade over time, which often results in a tan Labradoodle. Black Labradoodle A black Labradoodle comes in a solid all black coat with no other colored markings. Black Labradoodles also have black noses, black paw cushions, and eyes. On the other hand, like many other Labradoodle colors, pups who have a black coat may fade lighter into a more gray-ish tone over time. Chocolate Labradoodle a. Brown Labradoodle The chocolate Labradoodle is a rich brown Labradoodle. Chocolate Labradoodles can come with either brown eyes, or much more rare blue eyes. Their nose is typically brown or has a rose-y hue. As chocolate Labradoodles are so popular, it might be harder to get your hands on one. Cream Labradoodle a. Tan Labradoodle Cream Labradoodles have the signature beige-colored Doodle coat. The shade can vary in darkness and sometimes even have some gold or apricot markings on the face or paws. Their nose is usually black or dark brown. As their hair darkness can vary, cream Labradoodles are also often referred to as tan Labradoodles. Blue Labradoodle Blue Labradoodles are one of the more rare options out there. They are usually born with a black coat and as they age, they turn into a more gray-ish, smoky blue tone. During their first year from birth, their coat will change to match their skin tone. Their nose pigment is usually blue or gray that matches the skin. Most commonly, blue Labradoodles have brown eyes, but there are also the super rare, yet super gorgeous blue Labradoodles with blue eyes. Silver Labradoodle a. Gray Labradoodle Silver Labradoodles are very similar to blue Labradoodles. The silver can range anywhere from very light gray to dark charcoal color. Similarly to blue Labradoodles, silver Labradoodles are usually born with a much darker coat color. As they become older, their true coat color will start to appear. Again, this Labradoodle color is more of a rarity, and you should expect to pay more for a silver Labradoodle. For instance, a brown and white Labradoodle is considered parti, as they have a white base color with large blotches of brown throughout the coat. Of course, parti Labradoodles can also have other colors instead of brown, such as apricot, black, blue, or silver. Achieving a parti Labradoodle requires a ton of DNA testing to make sure the right genes are present. Therefore, this is again a more rare Labradoodle color. Black and White Labradoodle a. Tuxedo Labradoodle A tuxedo Labradoodle or black and white Labradoodle has a solid black base with white patches on the chest and neck. As you might guess, the white patches form a tuxedo-like pattern. Although there are also parti black and white Labradoodles, the tuxedo pattern is usually what people refer to. When it comes to Labradoodles, the black and white tuxedo pattern is rather difficult to achieve, making it another rare Labradoodle pattern. Sable Labradoodle Sable Labradoodles are usually born with a dark coat that lightens as the puppies start reaching adulthood. Once adults, sable Labradoodles have a solid base color, typically cream, apricot, or tan, with darker tips at the ends of the hair. Some pups keep the dark tips, while others outgrow them completely. However, sometimes their ears stay darker. Again, this is a more rare Labradoodle color, which might be more difficult to come across. Merle Labradoodles can come in a variety of shades. Some merles have blues, grays, and silvers, while others have chocolate, red, apricot, and cream. They have a solid base color with speckled patches of diluted colors throughout the coat. Phantom Labradoodle Phantom Labradoodles have a dominant base color, such as black or brown with lighter markings of another color on the face, chest, legs, and paws. The phantom Labradoodle comes with a distinctive pattern, where markings are placed above the eyes and around the muzzle. Abstract Labradoodle Abstract Labradoodles are very similar to parti Labradoodles. But with one exception. There are various color combinations possible, but the most common ones include white and brown, white and tan, or black and white Labradoodle. Brindle Labradoodle Brindle Labradoodles have a stripe pattern all across their body, which resembles much of a tiger. The darker color is more prominent while the lighter highlighted stripes are present all throughout the coat. Like many other Doodles, Labradoodles often change color or fade as they reach adulthood. Usually, Labradoodle puppies change color during their first year from birth. The fading or clearing is usually more prevalent in darker colored Labradoodles like black, brown, or chocolate. You can typically expect a black Labradoodle to fade into silver, blue, or gray tones. Chocolate Labradoodles tend to become tan, cream, or silver as they age. Behavioral problems usually stem from improper or inconsistent training. If your pup is acting up, we recommend you get in touch with a professional dog trainer or try an online puppy school. Having said that, there is a link between certain health problems and the merle gene. Merle Labradoodles have a slightly increased risk of blindness and deafness. For this reason, ethical breeders never cross two merle Labradoodles, as this can greatly increase the chance of complications. It all comes down to your personal preferences and which Labradoodle colors you prefer. All Labradoodles have a similar temperament and each of them comes with a unique personality. In addition to that, ethical breeders place their puppies into homes based on their temperament and personality to find the best forever home for each puppy. After all, the most important thing is that your new companion fits your lifestyle and household. Labradoodles often carry the fading gene, which is inherited from the Poodle parent. If your puppy is carrying the fading gene, they will most likely become lighter and fade as they start nearing adulthood. Black Labradoodles usually fade into silver or blue tones, whereas chocolate Labradoodles fade into more creamy, tan, and beige tones. The only way to determine whether or not your Labradoodle will change color is by DNA testing. The rarest Labradoodle colors are actually different color combinations and patterns. These include the parti Labradoodle, merle Labradoodle, phantom, tuxedo, sable, abstract, and brindle. In solid Labradoodle colors, the red Labradoodle is the rarest of them all. There are so many beautiful solid Labradoodle colors like chocolate, cream, apricot, and black. And then there are the rarity options like sable, merle, parti, and phantom. What makes it so difficult is that they all look absolutely adorable in their own, unique way. We hope this guide has given you a great overview of all the different Labradoodle colors and coat patterns. Parents of Labradoodles: What color is your Labradoodle and did they change color as they aged? Let us know in the comments below! Avoid making the mistake of choosing the wrong Doodle temperament for your family, lifestyle, or current living situation. One of the unique features of Australian Labradoodles is the wide variety of coat colors and patterns. While Labradoodle colours are interesting, we maintain that you are buying a living creature and not a coat colour. It is essential to retain the appearance of an Australian Labradoodle within the breed standard, but we feel charging for colour is not a fair practice. Van Isle Doodles looks for families whose focus is on adding a labradoodle puppy as a family member to their home. Depending on the intensity of the pigment, a red dog may appear to be a deep red color all the way to a light brown color. Cream Cream labradoodles range from almost white through to latte depending on the intensity of the pigment. This is our Bruno Mars who is a light cream color with black leathers. Black Black Labradoodles range from jet black to silver. This is Cinder Ella an example of a jet black Labradoodle. Chocolate Chocolate Australian Labradoodles range from a milk chocolate color when pigment is diluted to deep, dark chocolate when pigment is intensified. Oceana middle is a dark chocolate Labradoodle with brown leathers. Caramel Caramel ranges from a creamy color to a darker red. The brown leathers make the dog caramel rather than red. Here are some examples of our caramel dogs. Parti Labradoodless can come in any color. This is our caramel and white parti girl, Bernadette. Phantom A phantom is a solid color with tan points. The markings are similar to those found on Yorkies, Rottweilers and Dobermans. Tan points for the phantom pattern are pips above the eyes, along the side of the jaw, a band across the chest, run halfway up all four legs, on the vent and sometimes on the underside of the tail. Phantoms may be either black Labradoodles or Chocolate Labradoodles. Dexter is a chocolate phantom Labradoodle. Tri A tri colored Labradoodle is a phantom plus white. A tri Labradoodle may be black or chocolate. This is Tawnee who is a black tri. Sable A sable Labradoodle has each single hair in their coat banded by color. Each strand of hair has two colors. The tip of the strand will be either black or brown and the color at the root may be red, tan or apricot. Because the top inch or so of the strands of hair are either black or chocolate, at birth a sable Labradoodle will appear to be a black or chocolate dog. Once the strands start to grow out, the change color becomes visible. The amount of time it takes to see the second color varies from birth through to about six weeks of age. Since Labradoodles do not shed, at least as little as any dog is capable of not shedding, they do not generally grow new strands of hair. Once a sable Labradoodle has been groomed, the dark chocolate or black tips are lost and the dog then becomes red or tan in color. This is Ripple our chocolate sable parti girl. Brindle Labradoodles are not common. This puppy is a brindle Labradoodle. If you look at his feet, you will notice the stiped pattern of his color. Van Isle Labradoodles. He is a big, silly, and usually cheerful dog that is a mix between a Labrador Retriever and a Poodle. He comes in a variety of colors, the most common of which is black. Many owners report that their black labradoodle began to turn grey between the ages of 6 and 12 months. Black Labradoodles are known for changing color as they age. The rich coat colors of black Labradoodles sometimes fade due to the hereditary features of Poodles in Labradoodles. As mature dogs, they may develop lighter colors or even a unique color due to fading. To know all about coat colors when it comes to Labradoodles, continue reading this article. Do Black Labradoodles Change Color? Black Labradoodles change color; they are notable for changing color as they become mature. Typically, the genetic characteristics of Poodles in Labradoodles cause the rich coat colors of black Labradoodles to fade. Fading may have them grow in lighter hues or even a distinct color as adult dogs. Many Labradoodles change color as they grow older, and some even later. When they shed their puppy fur and mature into their adult coat, it might seem darker or lighter. If your Labradoodle carries the dilute gene, genetics may also play a role. Genes are found in pairs, with each parent contributing one gene. Some genes will be dominant, while others will be recessive in this mix. The color of the dog is determined by the mix of the two. A charcoal coat will seem black, a chocolate coat will appear silvery, and a yellow coat will appear pale gold or champagne. This is because of the numerous combinations that may be produced when a Labrador and a Poodle are mated together. Because there are so many possibilities, there will be a Labradoodle hue to fit every future owner. Regardless matter the hue of your Labradoodle, it will be a devoted and loving friend. Black, cream, and gold are the most common hues. In most Labradoodle litters, there will be a black-coated puppy. To be considered as a real red Labradoodle, they must have a black pigmented nose. Rarer designs include abstract and phantom, in which the coat is a combination of colors with white making up less than half of the coat. Phantom is a two-color design with a base color and a secondary color that is the traditional phantom design. Markings on the forehead, beneath the chin, on the sides of the nose, and on the chest will be the secondary color. While phantom Labradoodles are uncommon, the most prevalent color combination is black and gold. Do Black Labradoodles Turn gray? Black Labradoodles can turn grey as they mature, due to the dilute gene they can inherit from one of their parents, even if the parents never showed them; some black Labradoodles turn grey within the first grey, especially after they shed their puppy coat. Within the first year, a black Labradoodle puppy may appear to grow greyer. Without being expressed, this dilute gene can be handed on. When pups are born, they are usually black and gradually brighten during the first year of their lives. This may appear to be your black Labradoodle going grey, but he was always a grey Labradoodle who appeared darker as a puppy. Why Do Labradoodles Change Color? Labradoodles start to change colors around 6 weeks after birth and as they mature into adult dogs, their color is prone to changing or fading. The presence of Poodle DNA in Labradoodles usually causes the rich coat colors observed in Labradoodle puppies to fade. Adult coats can fade to be many shades lighter or even a different hue as they age. Labradoodles change color due to the following reasons: Gender Female canines turn gray earlier than males, according to a study published in the journal Applied Animal Behavioral Science. Health Problems Hypothyroidism is a rare condition that can make your Goldendoodle gray. An underactive thyroid gland leads to this disease. The gray will be reversed if you receive treatment for this disease from your veterinarian. Gray hair can be caused by various diseases of the liver and kidneys, but it is extremely rare. If you suspect a health problem, always see your veterinarian. Even healthy dogs can have a genetic predisposition to premature graying. Even puppies can have gray fur, which can start to turn silver as they age. Dogs carrying this gene are commonly found in poodles, bearded collies, and some sheepdog breeds. Since the gene is dominant, it can also be found in hybrids. Kemp Hair When Kemp hairs appear, they are usually found in the undercoat of the Goldendoodle. Because of the hollow middle and thin outer shell, the hair is extremely brittle and breaks easily. Stress or Anxiety Impulsive and anxious dogs tend to turn gray faster than non-aggressive, more comfortable dogs. Although the cause is uncertain, it is conceivable that stress causes the body to stop making pigments in the same way as before. Age Age is one of the most common causes of pet discoloration. This is extremely similar to the aging process we see in humans. The muzzle and face will be the grayest areas. In dogs, gray usually begins with the appearance of salt and pepper. Natural gray dogs can also show signs of aging, although these changes may be more difficult for you to detect. Gray canines may also begin to turn white instead of gray as they age. Vitiligo is a rare skin condition that causes loss of pigmentation in areas of the skin and hair. Although the exact cause of vitiligo is uncertain, many scientists believe it to be a genetic condition. Some dogs lose pigment all over the body, while others are only affected in specific areas. Skin pigmentation can also spread rapidly during the first few months after the onset of the disease. Fortunately, the symptoms of vitiligo are completely painless. Their eyes will most likely be a hazy blue tint when they do. This procedure will begin in around three weeks. Brown is the most prevalent eye color in dogs, and their color will have totally transitioned by 3 or 4 months. Can Black Labradoodles turn brown? Black Labradoodles can not turn brown, they can turn grey, especially when they shed their puppy coat, owing to the dilute gene they can receive from one of their parents, the dilute gene causes their coat to become lighter yet maintaining the same black to gold genetic ratio. Black Labradoodles can appear a bit brown on summer days due to sun exposure which can act like bleach in some ways; yet in winter days, your doodle will return to their deep black hue. The most popular colors are black, cream, and gold. Labradoodles of these colors, with the exception of the cream color, which may have a reddish-colored nose, will have a black pigment on their nose. There will be a black-coated puppy in almost every Labradoodle litter. They must have a black pigmented nose to be called a true red Labradoodle. Abstract and phantom coats, in which the coat is a mixture of colors, are rarer designs with white making up less than half of the coat. At the end of the day, all Labradoodles are magnificent dogs regardless of the color of their coats. They should be treated with the love they deserve and need. If you have a Labradoodle, you should consider yourself a lucky person, because there is quite nothing similar to their unconditional love in the world. Aim to enjoy every moment with them, and make your time with them as memorable as possible. You can start by learning how to make your bond with your Labradoodle stronger here. Before you jump into the related question section, you may want to find out how high maintenance your Labradoodle is in this post. Related Questions Why is my labradoodle turning grey? Your labradoodle is turning grey due to a dilute gene that they inherit from one of their parents. What is the rarest Labradoodles color? They must have a black pigmented nose to be called a true red Labradoodle; following red, pure white Labradoodles follow. Why is my black labradoodle turning brown? Your black labradoodle is turning brown or red due to exposure to the sun. Many professional dog grooming products contain sunscreen for fur, which will protect fur from damaging sun rays. Check out the best and healthiest foods for golden retrievers at every age here — Dry, Wet, Homemade Recipes, and Treats! Taking a walk? These are the best leashes, collars, and harnesses for the buck that you can find. Toggle Menu This Is Why Your Labradoodle Puppy Is Going Grey Your labradoodle puppy was either black or chocolate brown when you added the new family member, and now he or she seems to be changing color. Why is my labradoodle puppy going grey? The genetic influence of the poodle tends to fade the coat to a lighter shade as the puppy matures. When you get a Doodle puppy it is very rare that you know exactly what color coat you will get, but you will always love whatever you end up with! Coat color is, of course, affected by parentage, and the colors can range from a single, even color to a wide multi-colored fur. Did you know that the colors can skip a generation or two? The grandparents and great-grandparents can have an effect on the final mature coat pigmentation. As mentioned earlier, coat color is determined genetically and there are several genes that are involved. Genes occur in pairs, one gene being contributed by each parent. This combination of genes will have some being dominant and some being recessive. The combination of the two determines what color the dog will be. Taking the Labrador Retriever as an example, colors that can occur are yellow, chocolate, or black. A black coat will appear charcoal, chocolate will appear silvery, and yellow will appear light gold or champagne. What Is Kemp Hair? Kemp hairs, when they appear, are usually found in a fleece-type coat of the labradoodle. The hair has a hollow middle and a comparatively thin outer layer so that it is quite brittle and breaks easily. Usually, kemp hairs appear in mature Labradoodles around the eyes and along the spine but have been known to appear in puppies as young as 4 or 5 months old. Stress or anxiety Stress and anxiety can cause fur or hair to go white. Although the reasons are debatable, sometimes stress can cause the body to stop producing pigmentation as well as it used to. Health Issues Although rare, hypothyroidism is a condition that can cause your Labradoodle to start greying. This condition is a result of the thyroid gland underperforming. Getting treatment for this disease from your vet should reverse the greying. There are a variety of liver and kidney diseases that can cause grey hair but are very rare. Always check with your vet if you suspect a health problem. I am a dog parent in Hot Springs Village, Ar. I created this site to help fellow Doodle owners with up-to-date information and tips for raising your puppy right! Post navigation. Like their Goldendoodle cousin , the Labradoodle comes in a variety of colors. This is due to the many combinations that a Labrador and a Poodle can produce when bred together. There will be a Labradoodle color to suit every future owner as the options are plentiful. However, regardless of the color of your Labradoodle, they all make loyal and lovable companions. The most popular colors are black, cream and gold. Golden is inclusive of apricot and caramel. Labradoodles of these colors will mostly have a black pigment to their nose with the exception of the cream color who may also have a reddish pigmented nose. Most litters of Labradoodles will include a black coated puppy. The cream Labradoodle is darker than its white classified counterparts. They can come in many shades including some with hints of red not to be mistaken for a true red Labradoodle which is rare. The golden Labradoodle is darker in shade than the cream. All three of these color classifications should have a consistent color across the whole of their coat. Their nose pigment will be similar to their secondary color. Chalk white is slightly darker than a natural white with a rose or black pigmented nose. Then you have the rarer colors or patterns of Labradoodle. The rarest color of all is red. They must have a black pigmented nose to be classified as a true red Labradoodle. Phantom is a design of two colors, one base color and the classic phantom design in the secondary color. The secondary color will appear as markings on the eyebrows, under the chin, the sides of the muzzle and on the chest. Whilst a phantom Labradoodle is quite rare, the most common mix of colors is black and gold. From around 6 months old, your Labradoodle puppy will start to shed their puppy coat and grow their adult one. Here is what can happen to all those different colors as this transition takes place: Black True black Labradoodles should hold their color. However, there are a couple of factors that come into play which could impact this. One is genetics and the other is that a silver or blue Labradoodle is likely to be born black. The silver coloring develops over the first couple of years and can vary significantly in tone from a darker colored charcoal to a lighter pewter shade. The blue hue should be apparent from birth as their skin will be blue, but this will be subtle and the true-blue coat, like the silver, will develop over the first few years. Golden and Apricot The apricot Labradoodle coat can both lighten and darken from how it appears at birth, but it should retain the apricot shade. The Labradoodle who is golden in color has a tendency to fade with age. Cream and Chalk White Whilst there are differing shades which all classify as cream, this coat color tends to stay the same as your Labradoodle grows. Chalk white Labradoodles typically also hold their color. Many do fade over time and to a variety of diverse shades. Parchment is a chocolate Labradoodle. Usually a milkier chocolate color at birth, their coat will fade as they grow. Some chocolate Labradoodles will even develop a lavender colored coat over their first few years. This smoky hue can often appear to be pink or lilac in its appearance. Red Unfortunately, this rare and beautifully colored coat does have a tendency to fade over time to lighter shades. Parti, Abstract and Phantom As will the solid block color coats we have already discussed, the patterned fur on your Labradoodle can also change over time and as they grow. However, this should only relate to a change in shade as their markings, especially for a phantom, should be distinguishable at birth. Stanley at 9 weeks old Stanley left as an adult. You can see how his coat has lightened Other Factors in Color Change Some coats, especially if they are to be considered a true color, must be the same shade throughout. Red and true apricot are two examples of this. Quite often though, the root of the hair is lighter than the tip. Labradoodles love nothing more than being outside. If you live in a sunny climate then sun bleaching is also a common factor in the lightening of the fur. Do Genetics Play a Part? Introducing the Dilute Gene Simply, yes, they can. Coat colors, like our hair color is determined by genetics. Genes occur in pairs and are dominant or recessive. Dogs and we inherit one gene from each parent and would need to inherit two recessive genes or one dominant gene in order for a trait to manifest. The Dilute Gene, or Melanophilin MPH to give it its scientific name is recessive so a Labradoodle would have to inherit from both parents. When they do, their eyes are most likely to be a foggy blue in color. As your puppy grows their eyes will get darker based on the concentration of melanin in their eyes. This process will begin relatively early at around three weeks. The most common eye color for dogs is brown and by around 3 or 4 months their color will have fully transitioned. Sometimes dogs have blue eyes and whilst you will then not see a full transformation, the pigment or brightness may change. Learn More About Labradoodles. Due to their genetic makeup, their coat color may change once the adult coat comes up. The most common Labradoodle coat shades are chocolate, caramel, red, cream, and parti. Coat Shades of the Labradoodle Chocolate: Born in a black shade, these Labradoodles turn a chocolate brown color when they grow up. The nose pigment is a rose shade with amber or brown eyes. Sometimes, the color of their skin may also be blue. Cafe: Born a chocolate brown color, these Labradoodle coats lightens over time. Nose pigment is a rose or chocolate color with a tint of hazel. The eyes are generally a brown shade. Parchment: Born a milky chocolate color and turning a smoky cream color when grown up. The nose pigment color is rose or brown. Caramel: Slightly darker than a cream Labradoodle, close to the color of caramel candy. These pups have rose colored nose pigment with a hint of honey along with hazel or amber eyes. Apricot: Born with a lighter color coat, similar to the caramel colored Labradoodle, that darkens over time. Their nose pigment color is typically black. Apricot Cream: With apricot colored ears, these Labradoodles have a lightly shaded coat. The color is usually warm cream with black nose pigment. Red: The rarest color of Labradoodle coat shades, these pups have a black nose pigment. They are also the hardest to breed. Cream: When born, these Labradoodles are slightly darker. Later they turn to a warm cream color. The nose pigment is black or rose colored. Raven Black: Born in a black coat, these Labradoodles have black nose pigment with shiny eyes. Sometimes their coat color can turn more of a silvery color over time. Light Blue: These Labradoodles are like black. When these pups mature, their fur color lightens and turns to a light blue or grey color. Parti Color: Often known as Parti Labradoodles, these pups have large swatches of white color. Red, black, or chocolate spots on a white coat are the most common. Phantom: These pups have secondary color markings near their eyes, chest, and chin. The Phantom Labradoodle has a combination of two colors, ideally black with a gold phantom.