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All dogs are unique and grow at their own rate. Pro Tip: Check out our complete guide to puppy care to ensure your Lab gets off to a great start. As a medium to large breed, Labrador Retrievers need at least one year to reach their full size. A general rule of thumb suggests your Lab should be at or close to its full size by their first birthday. However, bigger-boned Lab puppies can keep growing and filling out their chest up to 18 months old. How big should a 6-month-old Labrador Retriever be? The average Lab weight at six months old is about 40 to 55 pounds for males or 30 to 35 pounds for females. Please keep in mind that these numbers are averages, and every puppy will grow at a slightly different rate. How much bigger will my Labrador Retriever get? There are three ways to predict the size of a Labrador Retriever at maturity: Age. Labrador Retrievers typically reach their full height and weight around their first birthday. Larger Labs may need up to 18 months to fill out their chest, but any weight gain after 12 months should be minimal overall. If your Lab is less than a year old, they are likely still growing and putting on muscle to reach their adult size. Paw Size. If their paws look oversized next to their legs and body, then they are probably still growing, as this is a classic puppy feature. Lastly, if you purchased your Lab through a breeder, you can contact them for a more exact height and weight estimate. What is the size of a full-grown Labrador Retriever? A full-grown Labrador Retriever weighs between 65 and 80 pounds and stands about .The average weight of a full-grown female Labrador Retriever should be about 55 to 70 pounds, standing at .Make sure to consult with your veterinarian to ensure that your Lab is maintaining a healthy weight for its body size. The Labrador Retriever growth rate should be indicative of its athletic body and muscular build. Did you know. ? Their webbed paws made them strong swimmers, along with their otter tail, which acts like a powerful rudder when retrieving ducks. English nobles spotted the dogs and brought them home across the Atlantic, where breeders continued to refine the breed into its own variation. Between their friendly demeanor, adaptability, and outgoing disposition, they make ideal family members. As cherished members of our families, Labs deserve the best care. Unfortunately, like many other purebred dogs, Labrador Retrievers are more susceptible to various health issues. Some of the most common examples include:. Vocality level 4 in 5 Disclaimer: While the characteristics mentioned here may frequently represent this breed, dogs are individuals whose personalities and appearances will vary. Please consult the adoption organization for details on a specific pet. Temperament Few breeds so richly deserve their popularity as does the Labrador Retriever. When trained, the breed is obedient and amiable and tolerates the antics of children, other dogs, and other pets. The Lab is a calm house dog, playful yard dog, and intense field dog, all on the same day. Labs are eager to please, enjoys learning, and excel in obedience. It is a powerful breed that loves to swim and retrieve. Labradors need daily physical and mental challenges to keep occupied. A bored Lab can get into trouble! Upkeep Labradors are active and sociable dogs. They need daily exercise, preferably in the form of retrieving and swimming. Owners with swimming pools either must fence them out or be prepared to share the pool with dogs. The Lab coat sheds water easily. Weekly brushing is needed to remove dead hair. Health Major concerns: CHD, elbow dysplasia, OCD, obesity, patellar luxation Minor concerns: cataract, CPRA, hot spots, retinal dysplasia, hypothyroidism Occasionally seen: diabetes, entropion, distichiasis, tricuspid valve dysplasia, centronuclear myopathy, exercise-induced collapse Suggested tests: hip, elbow, eye, exercise-induced collapse DNA , centronuclear myopathy , knee Life span: 10—12 years History The original Labradors were all-purpose water dogs originating in Newfoundland, not Labrador. Not only did the breed not originate in Labrador, but it also was not originally called the Labrador Retriever. These dogs—medium-sized black dogs with close hair—not only retrieved game but also retrieved fish, pulled small fishing boats through icy water and helped the fisherman in any task involving swimming. Eventually, the breed died out in Newfoundland in large part because of a heavy dog tax. However, a core of Labradors had been taken to England in the early s, and it is from these dogs, along with crosses to other retrievers, that the breed continued. It was also in England that the breed earned its reputation as an extraordinary retriever of upland game. Initially, black labs were favored over yellow or chocolate colors. By the early s, the other colors had become more accepted. The popularity of this breed has grown steadily until the Labrador Retriever became the most popular breed in America in and remains so today. Related Content. For nearly 50 years we have produced English Labradors in the true style of the all-around dog they were meant to be. Our ultimate goal has been a beautiful dog conforming to breed standards with soundness of temperament and body. Our Labradors retain the hunting ability that has made them the supreme hunting retriever. This intelligent, well-tempered dog is a perfect family companion and service dog. We are pleased to not only have many of our On The Bluff Labradors in pet, show and hunting homes, but also used as guide dogs for the disabled and specialist for airscent detection. Our breeding program strives for perfection in every litter. We use the highest quality stud dogs with a background of multiple Grand Champions. We combine their linage with the outstanding genetics of our females. The result are not just cute, adorable puppies, but dogs that can be well trained, healthy companions for a lifetime. We have never lost sight of our initial goal to produce the perfect Labrador- in mind and body. Feel free to email us for additional information or to get on a waiting list for one of our puppies. Staffed by professional trainers- each puppy receives several weeks and hundreds of hours of individual lessons- Obedience Training, House Living Training, Group Socialization, and Outside Etiquette. We believe our unique training methods and individualized programs sets us apart from any other breeder. Here you will find many adorable pictures of our current puppies.

What you need to know! Step 1 Reserving your puppy Once you get in touch we can discuss your requirements and how the puppy will fit into your lifestyle. When do you want a puppy? If we have a current litter and there are available puppies, you can arrange a visit. I can also put your name onto a waiting list at this stage you pay your non-refundable deposit. Step 2 Choosing your puppy Once the litter has arrived I will contact you to let you know how many are male and female. At 6 weeks old, you will be invited to visit and select your puppy. This is done in the order that the puppies were reserved. Please note that you will be required to take a LFT and all visits will be inline with the government guidelines. I will send you photographs and weekly updates of your puppy. Step 3 Paying for your puppy Once the collection day has arrived we can discuss how you would like to pay the balance of the puppy fee. I can accept bank transfers, cash or paypal payments. We know our stuff Partners and Certification Do you have what it takes to be a guardian? In an effort for us to expand our breeding programme, we offer a Guardian Home programme. Welcome to Minton Manor Australian Labradoodles. UK breeders of multigenerational Australian labradoodles - our passion is breeding the finest quality Australian labradoodle puppies and our pride is the service we deliver. Reserving miniature Australian Labradoodle Puppies Spring - Breeding quality puppies will be available to approved programmes Our Multigenerational Australian Labradoodles are bred from the best lines, with extensively health tested parents, raised in our family home in the beautiful Herefordshire countryside in the United Kingdom. The Australian Labradoodle is the perfect family companion, being non-shedding to low-shedding and miniature labradoodles are great with children of all ages and other animals alike. A dedicated breeding programme to provide families with happy, healthy, well balanced Australian labradoodle puppies with a professional, personal, friendly service. Our premises has been awarded a 5 Star Licence with our local authority so you can have confidence and trust in our high standards. We can export Australian labradoodle puppies globally, please enquire for more details. About Us Learn About the Miniature Labradoodle The Australian labradoodle is very loving, social, highly trainable and excellent companion dogs with incomparable beauty. They are perfect for therapy work or a perfect family companion. My Australian Labradoodle puppies, like my dogs, are raised in my home. At Northbound we are passionate about our dogs and will 'interview' every prospective home to make sure you understand the breed, the responsibility of raising a puppy and the likely 15 year commitment. My dogs originate from established and recognised Australian Labradoodle breeder lines. Since I have responsibly bred for temperament and health, whilst staying true to the breed standard and protecting its future development. I am exceptionally proud of my dogs and the wonderful puppies they produce, plus their owners whom I consider my friends. Having owned Australian Labradoodles since , I am dedicated to the development and longevity of this wonderful breed. My dogs are bred for temperament and health first and foremost. The Australian Labradoodles you see on this website have joined me from Canada, America, and across Europe. It is my aim to breed the best ALD puppies I can through careful selection and to continue being one of the best breeders in the UK. I'm considered one of the longest serving professional breeders in the UK with a firm and respected reputation. With humour, and a positive, no-nonsense approach, I have educated, coached and guided many puppy owners through the maze of preparation, socialisation, training, grooming and feeding, and look forward to continuing so for the next decade.I look forward to welcoming you all to the future Northbound family. Having watched this cross develop, I have decided to take the plunge and start my own Northbound Bernedoodle line. As ever I will be completing full health testing and making sure the temperament is just right. What my puppy owners say.Lux As an experienced dog owner and former vet nurse, I wish all dog breeders were a model of Johanne, and I cannot recommend her highly enough. Barney Johanne prepares all her owners so well, with a wealth of information before you collect your puppy and ongoing advice for as long as you need it. Bobby Bobby has been so well cared for and loved in his first few weeks of life and this is reflected in his personality daily. He is so gentle, loving and easy going. Order of list is in order of deposits received. We have regular open days for people to come visit us and meet our dogs. We also arrange puppy meet ups in local areas. Once puppies are born they are allocated in order of list. Puppy pick day is held when puppies are around 6 weeks old, we find this is the best time for you to make an informed decision, their personalities are developed by this time. Puppy pick is done in reserve list order. We temperament test the puppies beforehand to help you in making your decision. Puppies go home at 8 weeks, vaccinated, microchipped and with a full puppy pack which includes, food, scent toy, shampoo and a comprehensive guide to help you through the first few weeks. We also offer a lifetime of support. We sell our Australian Labradoodles for a pet price, this price is for an Australian Labradoodle that has been permanently neutered or spayed before reaching 12 months of age. Intact or un-neutered and un-spayed dogs reaching over 12 months of age cost more. We are planning quite far out and once a place has been reserved we do not accept deposits from elsewhere. The commitment is on both sides. However I do understand that circumstances change therefore you may choose to switch litters up to two years away for a maximum of 2 litters. However, if my prices have risen in the meantime, your deposit will be deducted from the higher price. As a tiny pup she grew up in their house lots of breeders say they do this, but the pups are often in an outside shed. She arrived with me at 8 weeks old as a confident well rounded little girl. As an added bonus, she was practically house trained. I would have no hesitation in recommending Southdown Labradoodles. They are really caring breeders who love their dogs and will go the extra mile to make sure every pup gets the very best start in life. After a great amount of searching we found Southdowns Australian Labradoodles. Debbie was both friendly and professional. She was happy to answer any questions we had and we found the puppy information pack really useful. Debbie kept us informed throughout Otties pregnancy. Being able to watch Ottie and the puppies over the webcast was amazing and helped us feel connected to the puppies. We were able to see what a lovely mum Ottie was. Debbie's care of the puppies including making sure they all had the necessary health checks was excellent. The puppies were beautiful and well socialised. Our puppy has a very good temperament, well adjusted although very mischievous. She has bought a lot of joy to our lives and we can't thank Debbie enough. If you are looking for an ethical trustworthy breeder who places the welfare of her dogs and puppies above all else then you would do no better than Debbie. We would definitely recommend her Marie, John and Pebbles New Puppy Owner Adding an Australian Labradoodle to our family is the best decision we have made and we couldn't imagine our lives without our fur baby! As soon as we met Debbie and Tony, it was obvious that they are responsible breeders and are passionate about what they do. They took time to answer all of our questions and as first-time dog owners with young children there were lots!! We were invited to meet them and their dogs when the pups were four weeks old; following this we visited regularly and were always made to feel welcome. We were able to view the puppies via puppy cam at any time and it was lovely to see them grow and develop. Debbie and Tony provided us with expert advice and are clearly very knowledgeable about the breed. We have stayed in touch with Debbie and Tony and meet regularly for dog walks. They have always been on hand with advice and to answer any questions - I recommend them to everyone. My parents fell in love with our pup and 14 months later, brought home her brother - it's lovely to watch them grow up together, they bring so much fun and laughter to our family. Pippa K Are you ready to embark on your Puppy Journey. ? Our Breeding Dogs We are proud to introduce our breeding dogs, who are the foundation of our program to produce healthy, happy, and family-friendly Australian Labradoodles. Our dogs are all tested for health and temperament, and they come from a long line of well-bred Australian Labradoodles. South Downs Australian Labradoodles Puppies We are currently expecting a litter of puppies from our breeding dogs. Our puppies are born and raised in our home, so they are well-socialized and used to being around people and other animals. They are also non-shedding dogs, making them a great choice for families with allergies. Non-shedding Dogs for Families Australian Labradoodles are known for being non-shedding dogs, which makes them a great choice for families with allergies. They are also very intelligent and easy to train, making them a joy to have around. Eastbourne Australian Labradoodles Puppies for Sale We are located in Eastbourne, England, and we are happy for our puppies to relocate to other parts of the UK with their new 'puppy parents'. If you are interested in learning more about our puppies or our breeding program, please contact us today. Your puppy will be born and raised in our busy household. Our passion is to produce wonderful family pets with gentle loving temperaments that will bring a lifetime of happiness. We are extremely proud that the foundation of our lines have been trained as canine partner dogs and many of our puppies are therapy dogs and visit schools regularly. We have been breeding for a number of years and over these years we have seen many clubs come and go and we have been a member of some of them. We breed authentic Australian Labradoodles with lines that have been verified. We are content to follow our own path with strong ethics. We have an excellent reputation and we adopt the highest standards so you can be assured your puppy is an authentic Australian Labradoodle with bloodlines and health testing that has been verified. We follow a socialisation programme and temperament test all of our puppies before puppy pick day so we can help you make your choice. Temperament and health is always our first priority. We purchased our first Australian Labradoodle in and have been hooked ever since. Our dogs are our much loved family pets or live with their guardian families. Please contact us via email for more information. Access to our private puppy family area. A WhatsApp group for your litter. Both parents have been fully health tested with certificates available to view. Been bred in our family home by a 5 star council licensed breeder. Temperament tested and advice provided at puppy viewing. Call us today on Health Guaranteed All our puppies leave us with a full vet health check and a 2 year genetic health guarantee. Health Tested All our breeding Australian Labradoodles are fully health tested. We give our puppies the best start by following a tried and tested programme. Ethical Breeding We have the highest welfare standards which is why we hold a 5 star council licence. We believe every dog deserves a good life and this starts with the breeder. What our customers say.We travelled far to find her, and her knowledge, expertise and love for all things ALD is exceptional. After only a few days, Willow is already a huge part of our lives and so we are very glad that we chose Judy and RIpley's. Our dogs are very much our family pets. We are not a kennel, all our Australian Labradoodles have wonderful fulfilling lives either with us or our guardian families. Our dogs are for life and not just for breeding. The health and temperament of Australian Labradoodles is our number one priority, of course we breed exceptionally lovely puppies but our puppies health and temperament will always be our first priority. The Australian Labradoodle breed originated in Australia in the 's. The focus has always been on temperament, coat and quality through good health testing and planned matings. Our Australian Labradoodles are multigenerational, meaning both parents are Australian Labradoodles. Australian Labradoodles are very people focussed, they have a strong desire to please. Australian Labradoodles come in 3 sizes, miniature, medium and standard. Within my breeding programme I concentrate on miniature and mediums. Our Australian Labradoodles are extremely clever, sociable , comical and joyful. They are energetic when free and quiet in the home. We test their hips, elbows, eyes and genetics. When you purchase a Ripley's Australian Labradoodle you can be assured we have tested everything possible. We provide a 2 year health guarantee but we ask that our puppy families not give ingestible flea and worming treatments. We have both been animal lovers since we were children. There is no animal we don't love. All life, whatever you are, is precious! We both were brought up spending school holidays volunteering with our mums at a pony rescue and cats protection league. Animal Welfare is extremely important to both of us and we raise every puppy with the love and care they deserve. We are very lucky to have 3, soon to be 4, healthy children that also play a huge part in raising our dogs and puppies. You will see our children regularly on the puppy cam, playing and even cleaning out the puppies. Alex is chief puppy cleaner and gets very upset if anyone tries to help him as he likes the puppy area to be just perfect. Teaching children compassion and love is very important and we do feel very lucky that we can do that for our children with the love and care we put into our puppies. Being around animals and being able to work with them everyday is not only a passion but a childhood dream. We have worked with dogs for the last 16 years and have a very successful doodle dog grooming salon. This is where our love for Australian labradoodles was born. Out of all the dogs we groom, pedigree and cross breeds in our busy salon, we have never come across a breed of dog that is as wonderful as an Australian labradoodle. Australian labradoodles are born to be a companion, and a dog the whole family can enjoy. Having been brought up in a family that had rescue dogs, rescue cats and rescue chickens, its very important to us that our puppies and dogs are raised to the highest welfare standards, and we will campaign and help other breeders willing to work to the same high standards we have here at Willows Australian Labradoodles. Not every Australian Labradoodle is created equally, so we can't stress enough the importance of buying from a breeder that is doing all the health testing not just one test and then claiming that they are health tested and raised the puppies in a family home. As each person and family plays such an important part of having the highest welfare and the best quality dogs possible. Willows Australian labradoodles East Sussex - Fully License Breeder The proof is in the Puppies A good way of explaining how a good breeder feels is to compare ourselves to a baker. We are making the best possible cake we can! We grow our own organic ingredients, weigh out each ingredient, perfect the perfect mix and put it all together from our years of experience. Then we lovingly place it into the oven and set a timer.

We may earn money or products from the companies mentioned in this post. As we all know too well, what we put in our belly has a huge impact on our health, vitality, length and quality of life. They have to strike a fine balance between getting enough nutrients to grow and avoiding an over-abundance that can lead to abnormal growth and disabling conditions. In this article you will learn precisely how to feed your puppy. What they can eat, what they should not, how many times you should feed them each day, basic information on home-made diets and the pros and cons of various commercial dog foods. The majority of Labrador owners feed their puppy kibble. Kibble is ground meal, shaped into dried biscuit-like pellets that are extremely convenient to buy, store and feed, providing everything a puppy needs in one easy to handle product. All the major brands carry a range of kibble and many are specifically formulated to suit the precise needs of puppies. For our recommendations of the best puppy food for labs, please read our article on: The Best Food for Labrador Puppies. Good breeders will supply you with all the information you need to feed your new puppy and you should follow this advice. Puppies almost always get upset tummies during a change of diet. The stress of moving to a new home is enough to deal with without them potentially having tummy upset on top. So try to avoid this. But expect your puppy to get diarrhea after such a sudden change. What Can Puppies Eat? With a bewildering choice of different puppy foods available, what to feed your puppy may not be the easiest decision to make. You Can Feed Your Puppy Kibble Kibble is ground up food, formed into pellets and dried for easy storage and convenience. It is a specially formulated, complete and balanced diet, containing everything a puppy needs to grow and be healthy. Many people believe kibble is the best way to feed a puppy, with it being so easy to buy, store and feed while containing every nutrient a puppy needs in the right proportions. Wet, Complete Puppy Foods Are An Option As the name suggests, complete wet dog food is complete and balanced, meaning nothing should be fed in combination. Everything needed is included in this one food. Complete wet foods come in individual pouches or tins with one pouch or tin containing one single serving. In the main these foods are low in nutrition, contain a high amount of cheap fillers, by-products and water and need mixing with a biscuit to give them some substance and to make them more complete. Because the food is such low quality, you have to feed a lot of it. And what goes in, must come out. This type of feeding was popular decades ago and I do remember my parents feeding our first dogs this way, but most people have moved on from this and are feeding their dogs in better ways now. Raw Food, BARF And Home-Made Diets Raw feeding is a diet that consists of mostly raw meat, edible bones and animal organs, though most practitioners also mix in small portions of fruit, veg and selected other foodstuffs. There are many people feel strongly that this is the best possible way to feed a dog. But I would caution most people that to feed this diet successfully, you need to do A LOT of research, gain a lot of knowledge and truly understand a dogs nutritional needs to make sure they get exactly what they need in the right amounts. Many people wonder if they can feed their puppy human foods, anything found in the fridge or larder. Furthermore, there are many human foods that are toxic to dogs that you should avoid at all costs. Too much of some nutrients can be bad in itself, but also prevent the absorption and use of other nutrients too. So supplementing a balanced diet is a bad thing to do. Can You Give Puppies Milk? Assuming you get your puppy at the recommended 8 weeks, they will have been fully weaned before you bring them home. Many puppies are intolerant of cows milk and drinking it leads to an upset tummy and diarrhea so you would do best to avoid giving your puppy any milk at all. One exception is for very young puppies under 6 weeks of age. When we have newborn puppies at our house we sometimes need to supplement and use Esbilac Milk Supplemen t. However, if you have a very young puppy that you think may need supplementing please first consult with your veterinarian. Are They Necessary? You will likely be feeding your puppy a commercially available complete and balanced dog food, in which case you certainly should not supplement their food. Supplementing this will mean too much of one or more things, making it unbalanced which can actually lead to harm. But an excess amount of calcium in the diet of a Lab puppy can lead to skeletal development problems. So adding a calcium supplement to an already complete diet can actually do more harm than good. There may also be times your vet advises you to do so. But if feeding raw, you should know more about nutrition than I do. This is a hard question to answer and sadly I cannot give you a definite quantity or weight to feed them each day. Puppies grow at different rates, some are more active than others and there can be large differences between metabolisms too. However… The biggest determining factor is how concentrated the nutrients and calories are in the brand of food you feed them. High quality foods are nutrient rich and give a puppy all they need from quite small amounts of food. But cheaper brands are full of low quality and nutritionally empty fillers that mean a puppy needs considerably more to get what they need. Start by feeding your puppy according to the guidelines on the label of the puppy food you buy for them. Then see how their body develops. Puppies should not be fat! But at the other end of the scale if they start to look and feel a little slim, up their portion sizes a little. The guidelines on the food you buy are just that…guidelines. You might also be interested in:. Naturally, Labrador puppies would require more feeding times. Hence, you should only set a few hours interval between meals. As for adult Labs, optimal feeding times would be one in the morning, afternoon, and night. Almost identical to human eating hours. Along with implementing a time frame for mealtime, owners must be open to modifying combinations of puppy food throughout the first two years of the pup. Abrupt growth spurts may bring changes in their eating habits. Once your dog reaches one year old, its dog food is enough to sustain its energy for longer. Always ensure to follow the correct feeding schedule when feeding kibble or other types of dog food to ensure nutritional requirements are met. Regardless if you have chocolate , red fox , or Dudley Labrador , make it a priority to visit a pet nutritionist to obtain an accurate feeding time and quantity specifically designed for your pooch. They help in hunting, farming, and even therapy. As such, they require an energy-loaded diet and dog foods that are rich in protein and carbohydrates to keep up with their activities. Since they belong to the large breed classification, they are also prone to common health risks such as arthritis and other joint diseases. To prevent this, scour the local pet store with dog food that contains omega fatty acids, B vitamins, beta-carotene , and amino acids. These nutrients are essential to obtain, whether from a raw food diet, home-prepared meals, or commercial dog food. Here are some of the best dog foods we recommend for your Labrador Retriever: Wet Food: Like kibble, commercially available wet dog food is common and already a complete and balanced diet for your Labrador puppy or adult dog. Its smooth texture is well-loved by purebreds and mixed breeds alike. Eating wet food that contains Docosahexaenoic acid DHA , glucosamine, and Eicosapentaenoic acid EPA helps support the condition of their joints and heart. Dry Food: When on the hunt for the most suitable dry dog food, always look for grain-free and made from whole food sources so it can easily be digested. Also, check the food labels and ensure that it has a perfect balance of carbohydrates and fats. Highly fortified and breed-specific kibble is also recommended. Homemade Food: Considering how much your adult dog or Lab puppy eats, a healthy diet made from scratch can be a great alternative to avoid obesity. Just mix everything together with a little water to incorporate them better. Furthermore, this diet opts for low sodium content. Owners should include fish and flaxseed oil, carrots, eggs, liver, and beans into the raw puppy food diet. Since Labrador Retrievers are energetic and active dogs, it is best to give them a moderate to high-fat diet. As long as they are able to exercise daily, they can easily work it off and avoid being overweight. However, if they are more on the lax side, adjust their food intake from low to moderate calories. If they cannot burn off the calories, enroll them in a low-fat or low-protein diet instead. Excessive carbs can increase their blood sugar and may put your dogs at risk for diabetes. It may take extra time and effort, but the investment will definitely pay off. Once you learn the appropriate feeding pattern, then having a healthy dog with strong joints and a better digestive and immune system is easily attainable. That includes sharing our belongings, space, and most especially, our food. However, the American Kennel Club reminds owners to be aware of what human food is safe for dogs. In this section, you will learn which foods are okay for consumption and which food can harm our Labrador Retrievers. Physically, it can block their esophagus if not chewed properly. Moreover, some may also contain salt that can be fatal to their heart. Chocolate: Chocolate in any other form should not be given to dogs. Chocolate has toxic substances called methylxanthines that put a stop to their metabolic process. It can still be toxic even in the smallest amount as it may cause diarrhea or vomiting. Garlic and Allium Plants: Alliums such as garlic, chives, leeks, and onions are not good for dog consumption. Although regularly seen across social media, feeding your pooch ice cream is not recommended. It contains loads of sugar, and some dogs may be lactose intolerant as well. As an alternative, owners can always freeze berries and apples as a regular icy treat. On the contrary, here are some of the most friendly human foods for all dogs, including Labrador Retrievers: Milk: Milk is a great supplement of other nutrients for dogs. Just be mindful that your dog is not lactose intolerant. It should only be given in small quantities as a treat. Popcorn: On a movie night, dogs can also munch on popcorn. However, ensure that it is unsalted, unflavored, and air-popped. In moderation, it is a good source of thiamine and riboflavin for eyesight. Remove any unpopped kernels to avoid choking. Seafood: In addition, seafood such as salmon and shrimp contain good fats and are high in antioxidants. Seafood boosts their immune system and brain health. Be sure to thoroughly cook salmon, fish, and shrimp all the way through to avoid parasites. Eggs: Eggs are also safe for dogs so long as they are also cooked well. Cheese: Cheese can also be given to dogs in moderate quantities. Go for low-fat cheese as a treat. Mozzarella and cottage cheese are some that can be fully enjoyed by dogs without the fat guilt. A small amount of prohibited food is not worth an emergency trip to a vet. Throughout their life stages, a dog will not just undergo one food switch. Age, health, and other factors can fuel a change in their diet. As stated earlier, an abrupt change in their food will only cause an upset stomach and indigestion. There are a couple of reasons to switch food. Add the new food into each meal gradually and reduce the portion of their current food. This method can also be followed when changing from dry kibble to raw feeding and vice versa. Some reasons for change can be prompted by age. Different life stages will require different nutritional requirements for your dog. Other reasons may be caused by allergies, brand availability, and weight management. It is still best to consult your trusted vet about changing their overall food regimen. They just enjoy feeding their pooch with tons of food and love seeing them get fat. However, that is not considered proper care for them. Experienced dog breeders know precisely what an overweight dog looks like and how to feed them properly. Labradors are known for their love of food. They are incapable of switching off their hunger signals even after eating. As a result, Labs have a higher number of overweight dogs in the United States. Like with other dogs, overfeeding a dog can lead to obesity. Thankfully, there are ways to address this and protect the health of our pooch in the long run. An eye-opening first step is to have a handy Labrador food guide. Having this will help you gauge the correct amount of food your dog needs depending on its age and other factors as well. Log what they eat and how much they eat during each meal. Calculating their calorie intake is also helpful for medical purposes and when switching food. Furthermore, avoid feeding overweight dogs table scraps. Many owners are guilty of this habit. Much like table scraps, it is also best to limit dog treats. Entice dogs with treats only on special occasions and during training. These are just some of the simple things you can do to control an overweight pooch. When it comes to other methods, it is always advisable to speak with your vet. Dogs lose their appetite due to some reasons. Do Labrador Retrievers Eat a lot? Yes, Labrador Retrievers are a food-motivated breed. This is why owners need to control their food intake. Can Labrador Retrievers Eat Bones? Bones are a good source of minerals, so they can be good for Labrador Retrievers. However, it may come with serious physical trade-offs. Give only large, raw bones and supervise them from time to time. Dispose of the bone after 3 to 4 days. Can Labrador Retrievers Be Vegetarians? Yes, Labrador Retrievers can thrive with a proper vegetable diet in place. In fact, soy and other whole grains are perfect substitutes for meat for protein. However, a vegetarian diet is something that needs professional input from vets. Final Thoughts Labs are the most popular dog breed in the United States. Thus, there are a lot of available materials on how to take care of and feed this easy-going pooch properly. For starters, it is highly recommended to have a Labrador feeding schedule to guide you with the amount and frequency of feeding. Although Labrador food is accessible for purchase anywhere, you can also introduce them in a raw diet or homemade meals. Regardless of what type of food you choose to give, you need to ensure to feed your dog a complete diet that supports their growth and overall health. As an owner, it is a big responsibility to provide them with only the best, so these high-spirited companions can have a happy and longer life. Will you follow this Labrador food guide? What are your feeding methods with your pooch? Share and comment your thoughts below! My passion for animals started at a very young age as I grow up on a farm with several horses, cows, cats, chickens, and dogs on our property. Leave a Comment. Neither is necessarily better than the other, and you should ultimately do whatever you feel is best for your dog. Before you make your decision, however, it is necessary to understand what is involved with both options. Image Credit: Eric Isselee, Shutterstock Some people like the idea of feeding home-prepared meals to their Labrador, as doing so allows complete control over everything that their dog eats, but be aware that choosing this option is a great deal of work. It is also something that you should speak to your vet about because they will be able to give you advice and point you in the direction of many resources that will help you. It is also, in our opinion, a much better choice for those who live busy lives. These have been formulated to give your dog all the nutrients they need in their diet. Secondly, take the time to look at the label. As a result, the breed is unable to self-regulate their eating, and the only way to stop them overeating is to strictly control the amount of food that you give them and to never allow your Labrador to free feed. Read and follow the feeding guide on the dog food. Simply look at the label and follow the instructions. Also, remember that the actual amount of food that your dog will need will vary between different dog food brands and products. It is always a good idea to keep a record of everything that your dog is given to eat during the day. This includes not only their meals but also any snacks and treats that they are given, even if they are used for training. Avoid feeding table scraps. However, meals prepared for humans are often high in salt and oil and not particularly good for your dog. They are also unnecessary calories and over time, can significantly contribute to your Labrador overeating. Limit treats to special occasions and for use in training. Much like table scraps, dog treats contain unnecessary calories, so you are best to limit their use. Ensuring that you regularly weigh your dog and keep track of their weight is a particularly good idea. Seek assistance from your vet. You are free to use this image, but please give credit back to Hepper. For that reason, many of the premium dog food brands have specially formulated puppy food that differs slightly from adult dog food. Royal Canin , for example, has breed-specific Labrador dry food for adult dogs and puppies. Ideally, you should feed your dog a puppy food until they are months old and then transition them to an adult dog food. The most important thing to remember about transitioning your dog from puppy food to adult dog food is to introduce the new dog food gradually, over 7 to 10 days, by mixing a small amount of new food in with the old. Each day, gradually decrease the percentage of puppy food you give while simultaneously increasing the percentage of adult dog food. There are many reasons that your Labrador puppy might stop eating, and it is something you should keep an eye on as it can sometimes be an indication of a serious health issue. However, it is much more likely that your puppy is simply feeling a little off or has a slight illness, and in most cases, they will be back to normal within a day or two. Over time, you will get to know your dog extremely well, and even the smallest changes in their eating habits will be noticeable. There are a few things that you should keep an eye out for, as they can be indicative of a serious problem: Suddenly not eating or trying to eat at all Not eating and not drinking Vomiting An absence of bowel movements How Much to Feed an Adult Labrador Exactly how much food your adult Labrador is going to need will depend on a combination of their weight and activity level. Bigger and heavier dogs will need more food than smaller dogs, and highly active dogs will also need more than those that lead a sedentary lifestyle. You will find that the amount of food your Labrador needs will also vary depending upon the brand and type of food you choose to give your pet. Thankfully, all dog food must have a feeding guide on the packaging, and this is the best place to start. It is entirely up to you as to whether you choose to feed your dog once or twice a day. If you do choose to feed twice a day, remember to only give your dog half their daily intake in the morning and the other half at night. However, whichever way you chose, it is important to maintain the same feeding pattern, as dogs are creatures of habit, and they will expect to be fed at the same time s every day. Feeding a senior Labrador is essentially the same as feeding an adult dog. You should feed your Labrador on a regular schedule and follow the feeding guide on your dog food based on the weight and activity level of your dog. If you choose to use a dog food that is suitable for both adult and senior dogs, it is important to keep revisiting and checking the amount that you need to give your pet on a regular basis. Although your dog may not lose too much weight as they age, they will almost certainly become less active, and this will impact the amount of food that you need to give them. Labradors love food, it is as simple as that. This is a genetic feature of the breed, and you should expect that throughout the life of your Labrador, they will come looking for food many times each and every day. This is something you need to expect, and while training your pet not to beg for food will help a little, it is unlikely to be something that you will be able to completely get them to stop doing. Of course, there is one big advantage of the fact that Labradors are so food-obsessed: they respond particularly well to training when it involves earning food treats. There are many everyday foods that humans can eat that Labradors — and in fact, all dogs — should avoid because these are toxic or harmful. The source of protein matters when considering a high-quality diet. FATS The rest of the diet should be made up of fats, carbs, and vitamins. Labs need to have a correct protein -to-fat ratio, where protein takes the lead. Dogs tend to convert fat into glucose, so this is an important source of energy. Dogs rely mostly on protein and fats, but carbs are necessary. That said, a low carb diet is best for puppies. However, you still need the right percentage of carbs, since this gives your dog the sensation of being full. These include starches, fibers, and sugars. Try to opt for more complex carbs like starchy grain and veggies because these are easier to digest. Your Lab puppy will thrive when his or her diet includes: Vitamin B12 especially during puppy development , Vitamins A and E, C, Vitamin D, phosphorus, and calcium, Potassium Each of these required vitamins and minerals contributes to a healthy, happy, and energetic puppy. They also help offset issues like obesity. Vitamins A and E are important because they help your dog burn calories and promote eye and skin health. Vitamin D, calcium, and phosphorus, on the other hand, are part of a trifecta that works to strengthen teeth and bones. Potassium is a heart health-preserver. Labs with poor genetics are especially prone to orthopedic issues. Osteoarthritis and hip dysplasia are common health problems for this breed. Glucosamine, an amino-sugar, together with chondroitin sulfate, helps replace and support naturally degrading cartilage during old age. Recently,"grain-free" foods are being championed as a preferred and even high-quality form of dog food. That's, not the whole story. An investigation launched by the FDA revealed that there are potential links between a form of canine heart disease and grain-free foods. So far, researchers have provided an update to this researchers have provided an update to this research staring that the issue may not just be grain-free diets. Grain-free may be part of other trends knows as "BEG"- boutique companies. Puppy diets don't' need to be complicated. They also don't need to include ingredients that humans might enjoy. Enjoyment doesn't necessarily bring any nutritional value to your puppy's development. Keep it simple, using the guidelines for fats, proteins, and carbs above and don't shy away from food with grains in them. It's not their presence that's a problem it's often the ratio. There shouldn't be more carbs or grains than protein. Nor does including only legumes, seeds, lentils, or chickpeas as the primary ingredients make the food more superior. It's perfectly healthy to include complex carb sources like starchy rice and other grains. Grain-free isn't and shouldn't be a qualifying factor for your choice in puppy food. Feeding Your Puppy Kibble Kibble is dried, pelleted food that stores well is easy to eat, and is pre-formulated with everything your puppy needs to thrive and grow in his early developmental months. There are plenty of popular brands that don't measure up to the Snowy Pines standard. That's why it's so vital for you to learn how to read puppy food labels. Puppies should stick with "puppy stage" food, while adults should stick to bags marked "adults. Instead, your dog should have regular bowel movements, allowing them to absorb all the nutrients available. You should also keep in mind that caloric intake is calculated a little differently for puppies. Kibble diets are measured by how many calories the proteins, fats, and carbs represent for each gram. For puppies, this should be 3. Sticking to these ratios will help ensure your kibble choice is a healthy one. It's also important to note that kibble calories are often higher when compared to wet food. If it's high-quality wet food, it won't have as much fat to preserve it, which means fewer calories. You may have to supplement with dry food, especially if you're trying to keep the calories of carbs, proteins, and fats in the right per-gram ratio. How often and what time to feed I will show you the best puppy foods, whether dry, wet, or raw, and look at food safety, together with schedules, quantities and even a handy puppy diet chart. Best Puppy Food for Labs The best Labrador puppy food provides a diet that is nutritious, healthy, and tasty. So, what is the best puppy food for your Lab? Puppy kibble or dried food is the most popular option. Kibble is complete and can give a perfectly balanced diet. Puppy kibble and tinned dog meat combined is another common choice among puppy parents. Feeding your Labrador puppy on home cooked food or on a totally raw diet is also possible. Raw puppy food is growing in popularity, and there are pros and cons to raw feeding your puppy. People often feel very strongly that one way of feeding is better than another, and you can always find evidence to support your view. Dog breeders, veterinarians and even nutritionists have their own strong views. The dire consequences they list for not listening to them can have puppy owners very worried. The truth is that there is no good quality evidence showing that kibble is better for the long term health of your dog, or that raw feeding is better. There are risks and benefits to both, and the main thing is to ensure that your dog has good quality food to eat. Puppy kibble suits some better, and raw puppy food is better for others. Puppy Kibble for your Labrador Puppy food made into pellets is called kibble. An airtight plastic container or tin will do the job, although you should make sure it is food grade quality. Puppy kibble is the best way of feeding your Labrador according to most breeders and your veterinarian is most likely to support this method of feeding. Good puppy kibble will contain every nutrient your Labrador puppy needs in order to grow and remain healthy. The kibble pieces will be tasty, good for keeping teeth healthy, and free from additives that can provoke allergies or stomach problems. Labrador puppy kibble only needs to be fed next to water. Puppy kibble from a reputable manufacturer is intended to be a complete and balanced food. But some owners like to mix in canned dog food or even scraps of raw food with kibble. Your puppy is likely to get an upset stomach or to not have the right balance of nutrition when fed this way. Whether you decide to feed only with kibble or you want to mix it up, pick a good dried food manufacturer and stick with them. Feeding your Labrador puppy raw food has its benefits and drawbacks. One of the downsides is that there is a lot to learn. Here is a link to the articles you need to help you decide whether or not raw feeding is for you: Although I like the raw diet for my dogs, most puppies fed kibble go on to have long and healthy lives. Whatever puppy food you choose, the most important thing is portion control. How Much to Feed your Labrador Puppy? People often tell me how much their puppy weighs, and ask how much puppy food they should give him. Your Labrador is particularly at risk if they grow too quickly. The following diet chart is for kibble fed puppies and does not apply to raw fed pups. It gives you an idea of how much to feed your Labrador puppy Lab Puppy Feeding Chart The Lab puppy feeding chart below is only a very rough guide. The quantity of food you need for your puppy will vary depending on your puppy and on the brand of food you are feeding him. Labrador puppy food must be aimed at medium to large breed dogs. Check the pack carefully and look at the dietary charts. Ideally, you want the optimal protein content and the lowest amount of additives. Part of this always comes down to the cost. The healthiest puppy food is usually the most expensive and may not be affordable for some families. The Cost Of Puppy Food Some puppy food brands are more concentrated than and contain a higher proportion of proteins, essential oils, and other nutrients. The absence of these fillers means that you can often feed lower quantities of more costly food, making them less expensive than they first seem. You might also find that cheaper brands make your puppy poop more due to those extra fillers going straight through him. While some brands are beyond the budget of many families, it is usually good to buy a premium brand. High Quality Brands of Puppy Food Some brands of puppy food have developed a reputation for producing a high quality product and have many devoted supporters, including breeders that have fed them to generations of puppies. Although I am not a veterinarian myself, I have been a lab owner for 11 years and been in the pet food industry for the last 6 years. However, if this is not the case for your pupper, no need to worry. Be sure not to feed normal cerelac or cow milk as that will result in loose motion as well as stunted growth. At this tender age, you need to feed your lab pup via feeding bottle like you would feed a human baby of age 2 months. Milk is the only food apart from purified water which your dog is gonna need till 1. After this age, till 3 months you have two options. You can either continue with milk or look at starter food options like Royal Canin Maxi starter , Drools starter, Farmina Puppy Starter, Canine Creek Starter , Orijen puppy and plenty of other brands which are available in the market. The kibble for starter food is small and most probably, your puppy will be able to chew it. Certain dry food can be extremely hard to chew, so depending on the toughness of the kibble you might have to break i. Puppies of age 1. You should be following this diet of starter food till 3 months age at least. Also, make sure you are vaccinating as well as deworming your pup at the right intervals. So, a proper nutritious diet is essential to achieve good growth. You can either go for Royal Canin Maxi Junior or Royal Canin Labrador Junior or puppy variants of other brands like drools, canine creek, Orijen Puppy and Junior Recommended , Acana large breed puppy, pedigree not recommended at this age. If you are giving a good diet like Royal Canin, farmina or even home-made food, growth should be good. For those who can extend their budget, you can go for something even more premium like Acana, Orijen, Arden Grange and the likes. No need to add additional supplements. If you are feeding home-made food like boiled chicken which itself is a very good food option, consider adding some fish oils like Beaphar Salmon Oil. However, a good diet is recommended to ensure a good life span above 12 years and muscle development. Homemade food can be a healthy option as well. Feeding guide amount to feed in grams depends on dog weight and varies from brand to brand. You will find the recommended portion for your brand based on the calories it carries on the packet you will buy. At other times, you can give chews or treats but whole meal should be fed not more than twice a day. Do not keep food available in front of the dog except during his eating time. However, you can keep water available in a bowl all the time. Sticking to schedule regularly is recommended. Wait, till now we have been speaking about commercial dry food. Yes, this happens to many dogs. While some dogs like pugs are voracious eaters, labs or goldens can be extremely choosy. They will eat whatever liquid you put in the feeding bottle at this age. However, once puppies mature and learn to eat themselves, they may not like dry food, rarely touch it. In these cases, the best option is to first add a home-made additive with the dry food. You may add many things dog like in small quantities of chicken stalk, chicken pieces boneless for puppies , curd, egg and others to the dry food. Changing or trying out another brand helps as well. I have seen many dogs who hate Drools but like Canine Creek although they are manufactured by same company. Every dog has a mind of his own. Most common diseases of Indian bred dogs like canine hyp dysplasia, ear infections, bent hind legs can happen to any dog. Take your dog to a registered veterinary practitioner in case such situations arise. Lack of appetite is also observed during this age at times. For not-so-severe cases, you may administer Himalaya Liv52 syrup or tabs or other appetite stimulants of various brands twice a day for days. In case, your dog has gastrointestinal disorders, referring to a prescription diet under the guidance of a veterinarian can be immensely helpful. This entry was posted in Pet Blog. Bookmark the permalink.

Labradoodle generations can seem like a complicated topic. If you are hoping to add a puppy to your family you have probably already wondered what size dog you would like, what breed, whether you should get a male or female. And, if you have decided on a Labradoodle, now you have to wrap your mind around generations? So, knowing the most about your potential puppy will help you determine if it is a good match. This article will help clear up the mystery and give you a better understanding of your furry best friend! Why Do Labradoodle Generations Matter? It is all about the DNA! Generation refers to the ancestry of a dog, which influences both physical characteristics and temperament. Genetics also play a role in potential health issues your Labradoodle may be at risk for. Although responsible breeding can reduce the risk of some health issues, there is never a guarantee. This simple step can protect you from sudden and often expensive heath issues that require veterinary care. I recommend Healthy Paws as they offer one of the most affordable policies that also offers extensive coverage. Click here to get an instant, online pet insurance quote from Healthy Paws! Labeling Labradoodle Generations Understanding the terminology used when labeling generations is key. Every Labradoodle generation begins with the letter F. What does the number mean? The number is the generation of the dog. So, 1 is first generation, 2 is 2nd generation, 3 is 3rd generation, etc. Sometimes you will see a B at the end of the generation. This indicates a backcross. Typically this means that the Labradoodle was bred back to a purebred Poodle. There may be times when they are backcrossed to a Labrador Retriever, but as this is very uncommon, this article will only use B to refer to a breeding back to a Poodle. Labradoodle Generations Chart This table provides another helpful reference as you learn even more about Labradoodle generations. Do remember that the DNA percentages here are theoretical estimates. What is an F1 Labradoodle? It is a first generation cross of a purebred Labrador Retriever and a purebred Poodle. This first generation has a large, diverse DNA pool. They can have the shorter, coarser coat of the Labrador Retriever, the curly coat of the Poodle, or something in between! While an F1 Labradoodle will likely shed less than the average Labrador Retriever, there is a high likelihood that they will shed at least a little. Keep in mind that even this moderate shedding can trigger some allergies. If you need an allergy-friendly dog, the F1 Labradoodle is usually not the best generation to choose. The upside to genetic diversity is that it lowers the risk of genetic health issues common in purebreds. Mixed breeds in general are at a lower risk of genetic diseases. F1 Labradoodle Price This generation is usually the least expensive. Prices will vary widely depending on breeder reputation, location, size and color. You should expect to pay more if you want a Toy or Mini Labradoodle. F1 Labradoodles are the most frequent generation found in rescues and shelters across the country , so you may be able to save a bit of money by adopting. Photo courtesy of rosie. What is an F1B Labradoodle? Well, we know that F1 means a first generation Labrador Retriever and Poodle cross. So, an F1B would be a first generation Labradoodle crossed back with a Poodle. As mentioned earlier it could mean the Labradoodle was bred back to a Labrador Retriever, but this is not common. By backcrossing to the Poodle, the F1B Labradoodle will lose some of its genetic diversity. However, the advantage to backcrossing is a more predictable coat. For allergy sufferers who are seeking a lower-shedding dog that is more likely to be hypoallergenic, the F1B Labradoodle is a safer choice. You should expect to pay more if you want a Mini or Toy Labradoodle rather than a Standard Labradoodle. Photo courtesy of dooditsalbus on Instagram. What is an F1BB Labradoodle? So, this is a litter bred with an F1B Labradoodle parent and a purebred Poodle parent. This generation is a great pick for allergy sufferers. While there is never a guarantee that a Labradoodle will be hypoallergenic or non-shedding, the more Poodle DNA, the higher the chances it will be. Because the F1BB Labradoodle is so close genetically to a Poodle, there will be less genetic diversity. F1BB Labradoodles will likely have more traits typical to Poodles. This includes both appearance and personality. While this more predictable coat is better for allergy sufferers, it also can be higher-maintenance and will need regular brushing to maintain it. Owners of this generation will especially want to invest in a quality brush like the Chris Christensen Big G Slicker Brush. Prices will vary widely depending on location, the reputation of the breeder, color, and size. Photo courtesy of smalltowndoods on Instagram. What is an F2 Labradoodle? The simple answer is a second generation Labradoodle, but it can get a bit more confusing than that! F2 Labradoodles are not super common. One reason for this is when you breed dogs with such a vast DNA pool, it is nearly impossible to predict the traits that will be passed on to the puppies. Often there are puppies in an F2 Labradoodle litter that are closer to a Labrador Retriever in personality and appearance. If allergies are not a concern, the F2 may be a good generation for you, especially if you prefer Labrador Retriever traits. F2 Labradoodle Price This generation is often less expensive in comparison because of the unpredictability of their traits. Prices will vary widely depending on factors like color, size, location, and the reputation of the breeder. Photo courtesy of the. What is an F2B Labradoodle? This is a breeding of a second generation Labradoodle to a purebred Poodle. So, an F2 Labradoodle is backcrossed which adds a B to the generation label to a Poodle. While the traits of an F2 Labradoodle tend to be fairly unpredictable, backcrossing it with the Poodle results in a bit more consistency. This will increase the chance of the puppies having a more allergy-friendly coat with less or no shedding. It also means that this generation is likely to have a curlier coat, which is higher maintenance. Like the F1B generation, this is a good choice for allergy sufferers. Some breeders may refer to this generation as a Multigen Labradoodle. This label may be applied to any Labradoodle beyond an F2. If you are looking for a Toy or Mini Labradoodle, expect a price towards the higher end of that range. What is an F2BB Labradoodle? In other words, this means an F2B Labradoodle is bred to a purebred Poodle. This generation can also be referred to as a Multigen Labradoodle more on that later! This makes the F2BB Labradoodle a great choice for people wanting a low-shedding, allergy-friendly dog, as those traits are highly likely, though not guaranteed. Photo courtesy of toff. What is an F3 Labradoodle? It is a third generation Labradoodle, also referred to as a Multigen Labradoodle. Like the F2 generation, the F3 Labradoodle does not offer consistency or predictable traits. So, if you need a specific type of coat, the F3 Labradoodle would not be a good choice. F3 Labradoodle Price F3 Labradoodles are rare, but also not one of the generations with a super high demand. As such, prices can vary widely. What is a Multigen Labradoodle? Also referred to as a Multigenerational Labradoodle, this refers to any Labradoodle that is greater than an F2 generation. If you find a litter of Multigen Labradoodles, the breeder should be able to tell you the specific generation. Whether your future dog falls on the higher or lower end of that range depends on location, breeder, size, color, and other factors. Which is better, the F1 vs F1B Labradoodle? This is all a matter of perspective! If you have fallen in love with that classic Labradoodle appearance, then an F1 might be your top choice. The genetic diversity of the F1 also offers a lower chance of genetic health issues from popping up down the road. If allergies are a concern, the F1B is by far a safer bet. Since this generation is closer genetically to a Poodle, it will greatly increase the odds that your puppy will inherit the non-shedding and hypoallergenic coat. F1 Labradoodles tend to be easier to breed and offer more predictable puppies than F2 Labradoodles. So, the quick answer to the F1 vs F2 Labradoodle question is that the F1 generation is usually a better choice. They can sometimes be a bit less expensive that F1 Labradoodles. Being backcrosses with purebred Poodles, they both offer fairly predictable traits, making them both good choices for allergy sufferers. More important than the specific generation you choose is the breeder. A responsible breeder will do extensive genetic testing to make sure they are limiting the risk of health concerns. Do your research on the breeder, talk to past puppy owners, and compare prices. These factors should be far more influential in your puppy selection than the slight difference between these two generations. What Generation Labradoodle is Best? After all, they may be a bit biased! To determine what generation Labradoodle is best for your family, you need to factor in allergies, shedding, appearance, cost, health, and personality. This will help you maximize the potential that your dog will be low or non-shedding. It also offers the greatest genetic diversity and a comparatively low price. Overall, finding a responsible breeder is just as important as which Labradoodle generation you choose. A good breeder will match up parents and do genetic testing to maximize the chance for healthy puppies. Pair good breeding practices with great pet insurance and you will be on your way to having a long, happy life with your Labradoodle puppy. If you are not sure which generation your Labradoodle is, in most cases your breeder should be able to let you know. However, if you have lost touch with your breeder or you adopted your Labradoodle through a rescue, how can you find out? Many Doodle owners have had success with this simple to use product. All of our doodles are raised around kids, so they are pre-spoiled. She will be ready for her furever home July .His parents are about 25 lb. Let us know if you are looking for a doodle puppy. We'd love to help you out! All of our puppies arrive to their new home with current vaccinations and are vet checked around 6 weeks of age. All of our puppies are raised around kids and make great pets. All of our miniature labradoodles in this litter are microchipped already. We offer a few shipping options if needed. All of our puppies are raised with lots and lots of love. We raise beautiful doodles with great temperaments. They are kid-friendly. Let us know if we can help you with your search. These playful little guys will be ready July 18, at 8 weeks. They are current on vaccinations and kid-friendly. Contact R Little Puppies for more information. We'd love to help you find your new adorable little puppy. He is super playful and would make a wonderful addition to your family. He is registered, current on vaccinations, and had a healthy vet check. Contact R Little Puppies for more information on our poodles and labradoodles. He will be ready to go to his furever home on June .Shipping is available in the continental US. Let us know if you'd like more information on Leo. He is white with some cream markings. Let us know if you'd like more information on Frankie. We can ship within the continental US. He is a cream colored miniature F1bb labradoodle. He will be ready to go to his new home on June .Let us know if you'd like more information on David or any of our miniature doodles. She with white with cream markings. Mary will be ready to go to her furever home on June .We are located in Kansas, but can ship in the continental US if needed. She will be ready to go to her furever home on June .Let us know if you'd like more information on Frannie or any of our available miniature labradoodles. All of our puppies are kid friendly and pre-loved. We can ship in the continental US. Let us know if you'd like more information on our doodles. She is white with cream markings. All of our doodle puppies are raised around kids and get lots and lots of love. We still have 2 cream males available. They are ready to go now. Our labradoodle puppies are current on vaccinations, had healthy vet checks, and are kid-friendly. Contact R Little Puppies to learn more about our doodles. She will be ready to go to her furever home on April .Contact us to get more information on Audrey or any of our other precious puppies. We raise high-quality Mini Labradoodles as well as a few other breeds. We also have partnered up with several other reputable breeders that raise mini labradoodle pups that meet our strict genetic criteria and testing. So we usually have a good selection of very high-quality puppies. View Our Available Puppies! F1B Mini Labradoodle Puppies are a second-generation cross or hybrid. The father is a Mini Poodle and the mother is an F1 Labradoodle. The F1B Minature Labradoodles usually have soft hair that is usually wavy or curly. Thes puppies are considered semi-hypoallergenic since they shed minimally. These puppies can be a good fit if a person that has mild pet allergies. Once F1B Mini Labradoodles reach 6 months old they require to be groomed once every 8 weeks or so to keep their fur healthy and to stop matting. Adult F1B Mini labradoodle dogs range in size from 14 inches in height and pounds in weight. The average life span is typically years of age. The F1BB puppies usually have curlier coats and will be totally hypoallergenic. Once the F1BB pup is 6 months they will need regular grooming every 6 to 8 weeks. F1BB Puppies are usually slightly smaller than F1B puppies and range from 12 inches in height and pounds in weight. Mini Labradoodles are known for their intelligence and the ability to be trained very easily. They make amazing family pets and love to participate in family activities like swimming, hiking, camping or just playing tag in the yard. This breed is also a good choice for people who live in apartments as long as they get at least minutes of exercise a day. So if you live near Carlsbad California and are looking for a healthy and beautiful Mini Labradoodle puppy that can be delivered to you then check out our available pups now by Clicking Here. Below are some Mini Labradoodle pups that have been adopted.

This post may contain affiliate links. Read more here. Hair loss is always a concerning issue, in humans as well as in dogs. Balding in humans is mostly linked to age when hair follicles shrink or even die, causing the hair to fall out. Dogs that are only losing hair around the eyes can suffer from various conditions that might sound scary at first. Most of the time, the hair will regrow once the underlying cause has been treated. But how exactly do you prevent your dog from hair loss around the eyes? If your dog loses hair around the eyes, the possible reasons are not limited to underlying diseases but also infections like mites, fleas, or ringworm. Other options include environmental or food allergies. This scratching may not seem like a problem but those strong nails can easily cause self-inflicted cuts and open wounds which are magnets for bacteria. The sooner you visit the vet, the better his chances of healing will be. Now, what about other causes and how to treat them? Well, it depends. Keep in mind that hair loss around the eyes takes time to fully regrow. To prevent a lot of these issues that can occur due to malnutrition, a healthy diet can definitely help. Allergies Everyone with allergies can probably sing a song about all the annoying symptoms that come with it. But you are not the only one that is sneezing, rubbing, and itching. Your canine companion can also suffer from various types of allergies including: Allergic reactions to food Parasites Pollen Dogs, just like us, have mucous membranes around the eyes, nose, and mouth that are highly sensitive to allergens. If they come in contact with those environmental triggers, they start producing more mucus leading to swelling, redness, and itching. If you have come back home from a walk and your dog is constantly rubbing his eyes with his paws or on the carpet, he might be suffering from allergies. This movement is what causes the hair to eventually fall out due to the constant abrasion. He will scratch, bite, and lick various parts of his body. There are several types of treatments that can help with seasonal allergies such as allergy shots or antihistamines. Breeds like the German Shepherd, Pug, Labrador Retriever, or French Bulldog are more prone to suffer from pollen allergy while females are more affected than males. Allergies can occur at any age. Keep in mind that there are many home remedies and natural treatments out there, not all of them work but some of them might be worth a try, assuming your vet approves. Your dog might be pawing at the eye, rubbing his face on the ground, and squinting frequently. Excessive facial rubbing can lead to bald spots around the eyes and further damage to the broken tissue. Do not use your fingers or tweezers to remove the foreign object. Demodicosis Demodex Mange Every healthy dog hosts small colonies of mites on his body, called Demodex canis. Demodicosis or Demodex mange is caused by an overpopulation of these mites. The disease can be localized to one area of the body i. In severe cases, your dog might experience symptoms like enlarged lymph nodes, secondary skin infections, and pain. While some breeds like the American Staffordshire Terrier, Staffordshire Bull Terrier, and Chinese Shar Pei are more susceptible to developing mange, every dog with a weakened immune system could suffer from this condition. However, mite overgrowth and progressive disease do not occur, therefore demodectic mange is not considered to be contagious among dogs. Glaucoma Glaucoma describes the build-up of fluid in the canine eye and is sometimes associated with a cloudy cornea. If too little fluid is drained, pressure is created and the retina and optic nerve will be damaged which eventually leads to blindness. This defect in drainage can be caused by anatomic malformation primary glaucoma , tumors, uveitis, or chronic retinal detachment. It may affect one or both eyes depending on the underlying cause. Breeds with a predisposition to developing glaucoma include the Dalmatian, Siberian Husky, and toy and miniature Poodles. Is there a cure? Unfortunately, there is no cure for primary glaucoma which is inherited but treatment can be used to manage the condition. Treatment depends on the responsible cause and may include medication or surgery. Early detection is essential to keep your dog from losing his eyes. It can lead to redness, itching, watery eyes, and puffy eyelids. A thorough examination will determine which type of conjunctivitis your dog is suffering from. The most common types are: Allergic not contagious. Common Causes of Dog Losing Hair Around Eyes December 20, by petsmartgo Dogs losing hair around their eyes can be caused by several different factors. Allergies can be a common cause, especially if the eye area is red and itchy. If the dog is a long-haired breed, the hair may be pulling away from the eye due to the rubbing of the long hair. Skin infections, such as mange, can cause the dog to lose hair around the eyes. Additionally, parasites such as mites can cause hair loss in the eye area. If your dog is losing hair around his eyes, it is important to have him examined by a veterinarian to determine the cause and to begin proper treatment. This blog post will discuss the causes of hair loss around the eyes in dogs, as well as the symptoms and treatments that can help you get your pup back to feeling its best. Demodicosis Demodicosis in dogs is a skin condition that causes hair loss around the eyes. It is caused by an overgrowth of Demodex mites which normally live on the skin of dogs. Symptoms of demodicosis include hair loss, scaly skin, and redness. The hair loss can be quite severe and may also cause the dog to develop an infection. Treatment usually consists of medicated shampoos and topical creams. In some cases, antibiotics may be needed to treat the infection. It is important to take your dog to the vet if you notice any signs of hair loss around the eyes, as the condition can become quite serious if left untreated. Fleas and Ticks Fleas and Ticks are the most common culprits when it comes to a dog losing hair around the eyes. Fleas and ticks can cause inflammation and irritation to the skin, leading to excessive itching and scratching. This can result in patchy hair loss around the eyes. It is important to treat fleas and ticks promptly, as leaving them untreated can lead to more serious health problems for your pet. Regular grooming, such as brushing to remove any fleas and ticks, as well as using flea and tick preventatives, can help to reduce the chances of hair loss in this area. In cases where hair loss is caused by a skin disorder, it is best to consult with a veterinarian for treatment. Infections Infections and skin diseases can all cause a dog to lose hair around his eyes. In some cases, the underlying cause of hair loss is not immediately apparent. Common causes include bacterial and fungal infections, mites, allergies, and autoimmune disorders. If the hair loss is accompanied by other symptoms, such as itching, redness, or discharge from the eyes, your pet should be examined by a veterinarian. Depending on the cause, treatment may include medicated shampoos, topical treatments, antibiotics, or anti-inflammatory drugs. In any case, it is important to determine the underlying cause so that proper treatment can be provided. Allergies Allergies can cause a dog to lose hair around their eyes. Some common allergens for dogs include food, dust, pollen, and flea bites. If your dog is losing hair around their eyes, you should first rule out any medical causes by taking them to the vet for an examination. If no medical causes are found, your vet can help you identify what the allergen might be and suggest an appropriate treatment plan. This could include a hypoallergenic diet, medication, or other treatments like bathing your dog with specialized shampoos. In some cases, environmental allergies can be managed through the use of air purifiers and other strategies in your home. Ultimately, the best way to keep your dog healthy is to identify and address the underlying cause of its hair loss. Mange Mange is a contagious skin disease that is caused by mites and is most commonly seen in dogs. It can cause hair loss around the eyes, ears, and other areas of the body. Symptoms of mange include intense itching and skin irritation, hair loss, redness and inflammation, scaling of the skin, and thick crusts on the affected area. Treatment includes topical medications, oral medications, and medicated shampoos. Depending on the severity of the case, it may take several weeks for the dog to fully recover. It is important to keep the affected area clean and dry, as well as to keep the dog away from other animals to prevent the spread of the mites. This can be caused by a number of different things, such as allergies, fungal infections, parasites, or even physical trauma. Some breeds, such as Poodles and Bichons, are more prone to this due to their facial features. Treatments for hair loss around the eyes may include antibiotics, topical creams, or anti-inflammatory medications. If the hair loss continues, or if you notice any additional symptoms, it is important to have your dog examined by a vet. The Truth Revealed! In some cases, fur loss around the eye can be caused by seasonal shedding, allergies, or even just a bad reaction to the shampoo you use. However, it could also be a sign of an underlying health issue such as trauma, infection, or parasites. If the fur loss persists or is accompanied by other symptoms such as redness, crustiness, or hair loss in other areas, it is important to take your dog to the vet for an evaluation. The first step is to get an accurate diagnosis from your veterinarian, who can examine your dog and rule out underlying medical conditions. In some cases, hair loss is caused by environmental factors such as sunburn, allergies, or parasites. If the hair loss is due to a bacterial or fungal infection, your vet can prescribe appropriate medications to clear it up. Treatment Options for Hair Loss around the Eyes If your dog is losing hair around its eyes, there are a few treatments you can consider. Depending on the cause, your veterinarian may recommend using a medicated shampoo or ointment to treat any skin infections or inflammation. They may also suggest dietary supplements to help improve skin and coat health. In some cases, antibiotics may be recommended to treat bacterial or fungal infections. In more serious cases, your vet may suggest surgery or topical medication to address underlying issues such as allergies or hormone imbalances. German Shepherd Puppy Losing Hair around Eyes German Shepherd puppies are known for their thick double coats of fur, so it can be concerning if they start losing hair around their eyes. This can be caused by a number of things, such as allergies, parasites, or underlying medical conditions. It is important to take your puppy to the vet if you notice any hair loss around their eyes to get an accurate diagnosis and treatment. Treatment may include medicated shampoos, medications, or even supplements. Additionally, keeping your puppy away from potential allergens, like dust, pollen, and smoke, can help prevent further hair loss. Finally, regular brushing and bathing can help keep the coat healthy and strong, which can help reduce hair loss. Dog Losing Hair around Eyes and Nose Dogs can lose hair around their eyes and nose for a variety of reasons. It can be caused by allergies, parasites, environmental irritants, or bacterial or fungal infections. Your vet might recommend a skin scrape or other tests to identify the cause. Treatment will depend on the underlying cause, but it might include antibiotics, topical ointments, or specialized shampoos. In some cases, the hair loss may resolve on its own. Hair Loss Around Dogs Eyes Home Remedy If you have noticed that your dog is losing hair around the eyes, there are some home remedies you can try to help stop the hair loss. You can also use a mild antiseptic to help prevent infection and encourage healthy hair growth. You should also check for any signs of allergies or skin irritations that could be causing hair loss. If you think allergies or skin irritations are the cause, you can try an oatmeal bath or a topical ointment to help soothe the area. Additionally, providing your dog with a healthy, balanced diet can also help promote hair growth. If your dog is losing hair around its eyes, it is important to take it to the veterinarian to determine the underlying cause. It could be due to various factors from allergies to thyroid issues. Additionally, it is important to make sure that your dog is receiving proper nutrition and exercise, as this can help reduce hair loss in the area. Finally, it is always a good idea to brush, bathe, and groom your dog regularly to help keep their coat healthy and free of debris that could cause irritation and hair loss. Author Is hair loss around the eyes in dogs a serious issue? This really depends on the underlying cause of the hair loss. In many cases, simple home treatment may resolve the issue but there are other causes that can be severe and necessitate prompt veterinary treatment. Allergic Reactions: Allergic reactions are relatively common in dogs and can result in hair loss around the eyes. Hair loss around the eyes due to allergic reactions is often accompanied by redness, itchiness, and swelling. In some cases it may happen very suddenly and be accompanied by hives all over the body if the allergic reaction is due to something like a bee-sting. Dogs with chronic allergies may be itchy in other areas in the body and may lick and bite at their skin excessively read our article about itchy dogs losing hair. They may have redness and swelling of the conjunctiva the inner eyelids. Home remedies for hair loss around the eyes due to allergies: Clean around the eyes using lukewarm water with no soap or shampoo. If the itching or swelling is severe, then a vet visit is indicated. Veterinary Treatment: If the hair loss persists or worsens or if they are generally very uncomfortable and itchy, it is advisable to consult a veterinarian for proper diagnosis and treatment. They may recommend antihistamines, corticosteroids, or other medications to manage the allergies. If they have discharge from the eyes, especially yellowish or greenish discharge or if they are holding their eye closed, then an urgent vet visit is advised. Dermatitis is inflammation of the skin and can be caused by allergies, mites , or infections including fungal infections. Symptoms include redness, swelling, discomfort, and hair loss around the eyes. The skin may appear dry, flaky , or crusty. However, it is important to consult a vet for proper diagnosis and to address the underlying cause of the dermatitis. Conjunctivitis Conjunctivitis , also known as pink eye, can cause hair loss around the eyes due to excessive rubbing or scratching. If the hair loss is accompanied by redness, swelling, discharge, or excessive tearing, conjunctivitis could be the cause. The inner eyelids may appear red, swollen, and produce discharge. They will often become head shy and will not allow their owners to touch their head. Conjunctivitis is relatively common in dogs and can range from mild to severe, depending on the underlying cause. In some cases, the conjunctivitis is secondary to an ulcer on the cornea or irritants in the eyes. Dogs also suffer from dry eye keratoconjunctivitis sicca which can cause chronic conjunctivitis and hair loss. Home remedies for hair loss due to conjunctivitis: Owners can gently clean the eyes with a dilute saline solution and apply a warm compress to soothe the irritation. However, it is crucial to have the condition evaluated by a veterinarian to determine the cause and appropriate treatment. Do not use any eye drops that you may have at home, without consulting a veterinarian first. Some eye drops are contraindicated depending on what the underlying cause may be. This means that they might worsen the eye condition, especially corneal ulcers. Veterinary treatment: a veterinarian will examine the eyes, determine the underlying cause, and prescribe specific eye drops, ointments, or oral medications to treat the conjunctivitis. If they have a chronic underlying condition, like dry eye, the vet will prescribe eye drops that can be used long term to prevent further complications. Glaucoma Glaucoma , a condition characterized by increased pressure within the eye, can lead to hair loss around the eyes due to rubbing or scratching. The affected eye may appear red, swollen, and the dog may experience vision problems. Glaucoma tends to cause severe pain and your dog may be very head shy. Disclaimer: This content is not a substitute for veterinary care. Always consult with your vet for health decisions. Learn more. Glaucoma is a serious condition that requires immediate veterinary attention. While not as common as other causes of hair loss around the eyes, it can have severe consequences if left untreated. Glaucoma can lead to blindness and if not treated quickly may cause such severe pain that the eye may need to be removed. An urgent vet visit is required to perform a thorough eye examination, including measuring intraocular pressure, to diagnose glaucoma. Treatment may include medications to reduce intraocular pressure, surgical interventions, or a combination of both. Prompt veterinary treatment is necessary to preserve vision and prevent further complications. Autoimmune conditions Several autoimmune conditions , including a variety of pemphigus and lupus like conditions may cause hair loss around the eyes. You may also notice loss of pigmentation of the skin and hair it turns white or becomes lighter and crusting and sores around the eyes, lips, and nose. Fortunately, autoimmune conditions are not common. There are a many different autoimmune conditions and their severity depends on the underlying cause. Regardless of the cause, they will require treatment and in some cases this will be lifelong. Some autoimmune diseases are systemic they affect more than one body system , and these can be quite severe and life-threatening. A vet visit is essential to rule out other causes and determine the exact cause of the autoimmune condition. The vet will need to biopsy the affected area. This will require sedation or general anaesthetic and the vet will take a small sample of affected skin and send it to the lab to get an exact diagnosis. Follow up visits will be required to ensure response to treatment and to ensure that no side effects of the medication are experienced. Parasites Mange mites e. Flea infestations may also cause excessive scratching and rubbing of the head causing hair loss. Hair loss around the eyes accompanied by excessive scratching and head rubbing may be causes by parasitic infections. If your dog is not given preventative treatment against fleas and mites they may be at risk of contracting a parasitic infestation. These infections tend to be more prevalent in younger, older animals or animals with a compromised immune system. Fortunately, parasitic infections are relatively easily treated, although they are often due require veterinary assessment and treatment. Home remedies for hair loss around the eyes as a result of parasites: If you suspect a parasitic infection and your dog is otherwise happy and appears to be healthy, then using an over the counter anti-parasitic may help. In severe cases, a veterinary assessment may be required. Veterinary treatment: A vet will be able to diagnose the exact parasite causing the problem by examining a skin sample under the microscope. This sample can be taken without sedating your pet. They will then be able to recommend the appropriate antiparasitic treatment and the correct dosing interval. Look for accompanying signs such as redness, swelling, itching, discharge, or changes in eye appearance. If the hair loss is mild and there are no other concerning symptoms, it may be appropriate to try some home remedies initially. However, if the hair loss is severe, worsening, or accompanied by other concerning signs, it is advisable to seek veterinary attention promptly. Yes, in many cases, a veterinarian can provide assistance and guidance through a video call. A video call can be very helpful to assess the severity of the issue and for the vet to guide you on potential home treatment. The vet will be able to guide you on what red flags to look out for and what criteria would need to be vet to assess if a vet visit is required. Whilst a video call can be a convenient and cost-effective option, especially if you have a subscription service for vet video calls there are some limitations. Depending on how your dog is doing and what the suspected diagnosis may be an in-person vet visit may still be required. Ultimately, the decision to opt for a video call or an in-person veterinary visit depends on the severity of the condition, the availability of veterinary services, and the recommendations of your veterinarian. Frequently Asked Questions: How can I differentiate between normal tearing and excessive tearing causing hair loss? All dogs produce tears. Tear production may be more obvious in white coloured dogs as the tears tend to stain the hair around the eyes a brownish color. Excessive tearing causing hair loss is often accompanied by other signs such as redness, swelling, discharge, or changes in eye appearance. If you notice these additional signs or if the tearing seems excessive and persistent, it is advisable to consult a veterinarian for further evaluation. Prevention strategies for hair loss around the eyes include regular grooming, keeping the area clean, and addressing any underlying allergies or skin conditions. Avoiding potential irritants or allergens and providing a balanced diet can also contribute to overall skin health. However, it is important to note that some underlying causes may not be entirely preventable, and prompt veterinary attention is necessary if hair loss occurs. Related posts:. Skin may be greasy Yeasty smell It most commonly affects the eyes, ears, belly, feet, base of the tail, groin, armpits, and muzzle. What to Do Your vet should be your first and best option for treatment. The following are some of the courses of treatment your vet may prescribe: Immunomodulatory medications: This kind of medication will eliminate the itchiness caused by atopic dermatitis. Antibacterial and antifungal medications: Another issue with atopic dermatitis is bacterial and yeast infections that might also crop up. Your vet may prescribe antibacterial or antifungal medications that you would apply topically. Conjunctivitis Image Credit: Zivica Kerkez, Shutterstock If your dog contracts conjunctivitis, or pink eye, it is quite possible he will rub some of the hair away from around his eyes with his paws. You can read more about how your dog may have gotten pink eye here. Some of the symptoms of pink eye include: Excessive blinking and squinting Swelling around the eyes and on the eyelid Redness on and around the eye Pus discharge from the eye What to Do The treatment will depend on the underlying cause of the conjunctivitis. If it is a bacterial infection, treatment will usually be an antibiotic ointment, and will otherwise prescribe medication to treat the inflammation. Demodicosis Image Credit: Tienuskin, Shutterstock All dogs have a colony of tiny mites that permanently live on their skin, but if the number of mites increases, it can cause hair loss, sores, and skin infections. However, if your dog has a serious case, there are medications that can be prescribed by your vet in addition to using flea and tick medication which will also require a prescription. Fleas Image Credit: Naurora, Shutterstock Fleas are tiny brown parasites that can create irritation or even allergic reactions through their bites and saliva. You can also look for tiny black pepper-like bits, which are flea droppings. What to Do You can usually fix the flea problem at home using pills, chewables , and spot treatments , as well as flea shampoos. If the flea infestation is severe, your vet can prescribe something stronger. You will also need to clean everything your dog has been lying on as fleas and flea eggs could still be present. Glaucoma Image Credit: moshehar, Pixabay Glaucoma is a very serious condition that, if left untreated, can cause blindness. In some cases, the dog may rub at his eye since the condition can be painful, which could lead to hair loss in that area. Some of the symptoms of glaucoma include: Eye blinking Redness in the whites of the eyes Receding eyeball Pupils may be dilated or not be responsive to light Cloudy eye What to Do Visit the vet immediately if you suspect your dog may have glaucoma. Your vet will give your dog a number of medications that will lower the pressure in the eye. The use of cyclo cryotherapy which uses a cold temperature to destroy the cells that produce the fluids in the eye may stop or slow down the condition. Surgery might be in order if the glaucoma is too far gone and, in some cases, the eye may need to be removed. Infections Image Credit: mirkosajkov, Pixabay There are a number of infections that can be caused by parasites fleas, ticks, and mites , as well as by fungal and bacterial problems. Any of these can cause skin irritation, which can be exacerbated by your dog rubbing at his eyes. There are also infections of the hair follicles such as vesiculopustular dermatoses. Most minor skin infections will probably clear up on their own, but your vet may need to prescribe a special shampoo and antibiotics. This can create bald spots around the eye but could also further damage it. What to Do You could use an eye rinse to help dislodge the object but never use your fingers or tweezers. Take your dog to the vet if the rinse does not help. Some of the symptoms may include: Crusty skin. Other symptoms that he is struggling with can easily be spotted and logged, too. You may notice that it is near the eye area, or somewhere else on his body. My dog is losing hair around the eyes…why? But, what are they? Eye problems If there are very few physical symptoms on the skin, he is most likely has a controlled eye problem. When these are cleared up, the fur will grow back. The is especially common in those dogs that love to play in the mud or water! He could have a scratch from playing, too. Whether it was an unfriendly cat or just two gots getting too enthusiastic — it happens, right? Glaucoma This is a fancy term that can mean a few different conditions. Commonly linked to certain dog breeds or irresponsible breeders , glaucoma is something that can be easily managed for your dog! Pink Eye is also common and contagious to dogs since they tend to be contact-based animals. Skin problems If you see quite a few of the listens from above and you also notice the fur around the eyes, your dog could have a larger body-based skin reaction instead. Demodicosis A fancy word for dealing with an infestation of mange bacteria, this can happen to a dog who has a compromised immune system or one who is getting older and dealing with a weaker body. Ringworm Contagious to both other pets and humans yes, really , ringworm is a fungal infection and is common in those with compromised immune systems as well. It can create bald spots and skin with rings on it, which is where it gets its name. Allergies Allergies often are common in certain dog breeds and these allergic reactions will show up in skin issues such as bald spots, red inflamed skin, or fur loss. Dermatitis If your dog has weak skin unable to fight off even mild irritation, you may notice he has infections and other problems like fur loss commonly without any clear cause. Also, check him out for any other signs that he is having an issue, as they can help your vet determine what it is sores, scaling, etc. Have you changed dog food brands? Did you take him on a new route for his walk? Did he have a playdate? Did you visit a dog park? Things like that can help a lot! Contact your vet You should definitely contact your vet. Diagnose and treat the underlying issue Since hair loss around the eye for your dog is just a symptom of something else, your vet will need to diagnose the issue and tell you what the plan will be. This will ease discomfort and keep the eye from getting too traumatized. Antibiotic pills or topical creams From pills for ringworm to topical creams for Pink Eye, your vet will prescribe what they think is best for your dog and it will be up to you to make sure that you get him his treatments as soon as possible. Is it normal for a dog to have bald spots? Bald spots around the eyes as well as on the body are not normal for your dog, even as he ages. Balding could be linked to a few issues. This is diagnosed and treated with a vet to help. Genetics An irresponsible breeder will not know how to handle genetics, meaning that their resulting puppies can have poor genetics that, amongst other illnesses and health conditions, causes fur loss! Pressure sores From repetitive motions to over-grooming to joint conditions, pressure sores can eventually lead to bald spots as the skin becomes traumatized. Very distinct from shedding, bald spots are always something to ask your vet about as soon as you notice them. Here are some tips to do it. Adoptions rule this out, of course, but make sure that you adopt responsibly, too! Proper grooming and bathing Both grooming and bathing are crucial for a lot of things for your dog. A dog who is groomed regularly is easy to check for any kinds of issues that may lead to eye fur loss. For instance, hives from allergies or dermatitis scaling, etc. The sooner that you realize the issue and have it treated, the better. Similarly, if you bathe your dog regularly, you can clean dirt and excess oil from his fur be careful around his eyes and keep the hair follicles strong and resistant to damage or injury. Just make sure you use a vet-approved shampoo to do so or take him to a groomer if you prefer. Hair loss vs discoloration around the eye Hair loss is very different from discoloration around the eye. He gets tear marks Tear marks are watermarks, basically, for your dogs. Toy breeds are very prone to this! For example, some breeds — such as Golden Shepherds — have really special color streaks and these will sometimes come as they reach maturity. This can sometimes happen on other parts of his body, too. Hair loss around the eye for your dog is always something to take seriously. If you notice it, regardless of what you think the cause might be, contact your vet and get to the bottom of the issue so that your dog and his fursies can get back to normal as soon as possible!

Need help with training? Location of the crate will highly affect your efforts on how to crate train a puppy. Because dogs are social animals, an ideal location for the crate is within an area that the family visits often. This could be in the kitchen, living room, or bedroom. If you have noticed that your dog likes a particular corner or room to take a nap, or if you want your puppy to sleep in a particular location at night, then this might be the best location for the crate. Avoid putting the crate in an isolated area like the laundry or furnace room. Some fellow Doodle owners have done this with great success: Introducing the Crate, Step-by-Step Guide Here is a short step-by-step guide on introducing the crate to your puppy. Ideally, you should have the crate ready to go the day you bring your puppy home. The best first confinement session should be when the puppy is ready to take a nap and as early in the day as possible. This will likely be after a playtime, exercise, and going potty. Place a few treats, toys, or food inside the crate so that your puppy is keen on going inside on his own. If the puppy lies down elsewhere to take a nap, move him to his crate for the duration of the nap. Leave the room but remain close enough to hear your puppy. Some level of crying or whining is expected the first few times he is separated from his family members. Only release him from the crate when he wakes up, is calm, or if you need to wake your puppy up for feeding, play, or a potty break. Repeat these steps a few times before bedtime. Over a few weeks, gradually increase the amount of time that your puppy stays in the crate. Cap the max time to three or four hours until the puppy is older than five months of age. Prior to bedtime, your puppy should be exercised and secured in his crate for the night. Repeat these steps each day until he willingly and happily goes into his crate on his own. Avoid letting him out of the crate when he cries or whines. Ignore him until the crying stops. The location of the crate, as well as the techniques you use for crate training should be designed to keep the crate association positive. For example, your puppy should be encouraged to sleep, nap, or play with his toys in his little den. On the other hand, be mindful that if your dog is confined at a time when he is in need of play, attention, or to go potty, then he may try to escape the crate and experience anxiety. Likewise, never use the crate or confinement area as a punishment. This may make puppy feel trapped, anxious, and frustrated. This is the most important goal in how to crate train a puppy. A radio or TV may help to calm your dog and may help to mask environmental noises that can trigger crying or barking. Here is a good rule of thumb. Only leave a puppy in his crate in hours equal to the age in months that he is. Example: if your puppy is two months old, only leave him in the crate for up to two hours at a time. Never leave your puppy in his crate for longer than he can control himself or he may be forced to go potty in his crate. If your pup must be left for longer than he can control elimination, a larger confinement area with puppy pee pads, or access to outside through a dog door, will be necessary. Second, puppies need a certain amount of socialization. Some level of crying or whining is expected the first few times he is separated from his family members while in his crate. For some unfortunate souls, your puppy may be rather relentless with the crying for much longer than that. However, the crying might persist longer than that if certain actions are taken when he cries. For example, avoid letting him out of the crate when he cries or whines and ignore him until the crying stops. Moreover, only release him from the crate when he wakes up, is calm, or if you need to wake your puppy up for feeding, play, or a potty break. If the crying does not subside on its own, you might find that a mild interruption helps. A mild interruption could be some kind of sharp noise, like shaking a can containing a few coins. A quick squirt from a water gun may also be effective. During the interruption, you should remain out of sight, so that the puppy does not learn to associate the interruption with your presence. Though not always viewed as a favorable option, another way to discourage crying or barking is to use a bark-collar or similar device that produces an alarm or distracting spray when he barks. Avoid any interruption that causes fear or anxiety. These are not mentally healthy for your dog and could make the crying worse. They can even cause him to go potty inside the crate. Whether you cover the crate depends on your dog. Some dogs love the security provided by a darkened, enclosed space, while others can feel anxious in a confined area. A crate cover can help reduce anxiety and soothe dogs by limiting visual stimuli, which in turn can prevent excitement and barking. Source As with crate training, a gradual introduction to a cover on his crate is the best way to get him used to it. For steps on introducing your dog to a covered crate, check out this article. Well, the same way you would crate train your puppy during the daytime! The only difference is that he and you will be sleeping hopefully and that he may be able to go longer periods without needing attention. Is it Cruel to Crate a Dog at Night? No, it is definitely not cruel to crate your dog at night! The crate still provides the same benefits mentioned at the beginning of this article during the nighttime. Some crying is to be expected the first few nights your puppy is in his new home. What do you do when your puppy cries at night? If your puppy cries in the middle of the night, you have some choices on what to do. You can ignore him or use a mild interruption, as discussed above. You can comfort him by letting him know that you are present. You may also talk to him a bit if necessary, or put your hand on his crate. Another option is to sit or lay on the floor for a few minutes right when he goes into the crate if he is especially upset. Also, new Doodle puppy owners are swearing by Snuggle Puppies left and right. The Snuggle Puppy helps puppies with its pulsing heartbeat and heat pack, simulating the comfort of mama. It is perfect while crate training, as it reduces whining and barking, and it helps puppies transition to their new home. The result is a calmer puppy who feels less loneliness, fear, and separation anxiety. Use tab to navigate through the menu items. The biggest challenge is the first few weeks. We recommend that you plan on using some vacation time during the first few weeks to get your puppy off to a great start. Put the hard work in early, and you can sit back and enjoy the fruits of your labor after! We see the biggest failures occur when people are not willing to invest the time needed during the first few weeks. In these weeks, your puppy will become crate trained, housebroken, and continue learning their basic commands sit, down, stay and come. We will have already started this in our home but you must continue putting the hard work in the first few weeks. Yes that could mean some sleepless nights but it will be over before you know it. Once Your Puppy is Home: Once your puppy is home, enjoy it. First and foremost just know that this will not last for a long period of time. Puppyhood can be so rewarding but you have to be patient and be their leader. Bernedoodles must be trained using a very loving and patient approach. We feed ours about 2. See our puppy contract in header above, click the link, and we have the feeding schedule spelled out there. If you want a housebroken puppy, and fast, the bottom line is that you need to get your puppy out frequently. We take ours out every minutes, and more frequently right after meals. After they drink we always allow them access to clean fresh water or eat we will take them out every minutes until they have both urinated and defecated. The bottom line, is that if you want to housebreak your puppy fast, you need to prevent as many accidents as possible. Never, ever, use newspaper or puppy pads if you want to do this the right way. Bottom line is that the puppies will quickly learn that outside is where they are supposed to go to the bathroom. Every puppy is different, and some will have faster metabolisms. You need to watch for the visual cues your puppy will tell you when they have to go increased pacing, head down sniffing.Also we set up our puppy area using baby fences that is next to the door that they will use to go in and out of the house to go potty. They will quickly learn to tell you when they have to go by either sitting or standing next to the door, or in some cases, scratching at the door.Some people have had success training their dogs to paw at some bells that you can tether up at the back door as well. Bottom line, is that the more you're on top of this early, the quicker they will learn the deal of housebreaking. In most cases we have had our puppies housebroken within a day or two, but this means we are always with the puppies the first few weeks until they have the hang of it. Once they do, they won't be perfect and accidents will still happen and usually the persons mistake. DO NOT scold the dog. Just quickly scoop up the dog and take them outside. When the puppies are young, we start telling them to go potty for pee and poo poo for.You can use any other command but this is what we have used successfully. Training them to go on command is hugely helpful and starts imprinting on the dog what they need to do outside. As the puppies start moving around outside we just say "Go Potty".We keep repeating this until they give the characteristic squat of urinating or hump backed and crouched position of defecating. As soon as they are done at the very moment, and not a second later we excitedly praise the puppy by saying "Good Potty" or "Good Poo Poo". You can also first say "Yes! The Bernedoodle puppies want to please you and they catch on to this very quickly. You continue to repeat this process everytime they go outside and they will get the hang of it. This is extremely useful especially when you're on long road trips or in a rush to leave the house for a bit! We typically remove food after the puppies have had all the opportunity they want to feed and usually have the last feeding around 7 pm but leave water out all the time until about 8 pm. We will continue to walk them every minutes unless they are sleeping and we try to get them some good romping around time at this point so they are good and tired for bed time. We use crates at night time and during the day on occassion to get them used to the crate. We give them one last walk around pm. When they are weeks of age, expect to get up once in the early morning hours to walk them, but just let them go to the bathroom, and then promptly return them to their crate. Be strong with this! Don't give in to any whining or barking or the like. If you do, they have conditioned you and the crate will become a dust collector. The first few nights the puppies may literally go bizerk on you.Be strong! Don't do anything more than this. We had one puppy that cried and pawed at the crate door the whole night and we thought for sure this would be the one that wasn't going to crate train. Well by day three, she was perfect. You just need to know that except on very, very, very rare occassion, your puppy is going to learn to settle and sleep in their crate. You just have to be mentally strong, get some ear plugs, give your puppies maybe a sound machine and some toys, and try to get some rest. We just get one of the XL size crates and then safely secure an object to give them less space.This way you won't have to get a bigger crate when they grow. Although we give them an open fenced in area that we supervise to play in, we will put them in the crate several times during the day for about an hour so that they can get used to the routine. They may fight it at first, but will learn to love it very soon. Just don't quit on this very important step. Don't over do this at the young ages and just incorporate training throughout the day as a general part of their daily routine. SO if you want to teach them sit, just put a piece of food in your hand, palm facing up, and begin moving the food slightly above their head and backward while saying "sit".We will have already started this with them but keep it going! Just be patient, enjoy puppyhood, have a great attitude, and you'll develop what will be your favorite dog ever! However there are some things you can do to help. First, have a toy or bone within reach and when the puppy begins mouthing a hand or arm or something just say "OUCH" and then give them the toy or bone. Do not hit nor tap on the puppies snout. Just a firm and loud "OUCH!! Puppies are exploring and play biting each other during the first 8 weeks and they learn how hard they can and can not bite. Human flesh, without the thick coat, is a lot more sensitive and the puppy needs to learn what is and what is not appropriate. Don't be afraid to raise your voice when the mouthing is too hard. Or if the puppy is doing good licking then say "Good kisses" or whatever praise statement you want to use. But really encourage the good behavior. The frequency of puppy mouthing will naturally decrease but you need to teach them acceptable force of their bite.We are always here for you and will help partner with you during this process. Please never, ever hesitate to drop us a line with any questions or concerns. We want to see you have great success with your new family member!! Use tab to navigate through the menu items. Training should take place in a series of small steps. Open the door, or even remove it at first, and place a towel or soft bedding inside along with a small treat just inside the door. Do not put your focus on the crate. His curiosity will bring him to it. If he refuses to go near the crate, you may sit next to the crate and talk in a happy tone, put a treat just inside the door and make a fun game out of it. This process may take a couple of minutes to several hours. Just remember do not rush this process. STEP TWO When your puppy is comfortable with being inside the crate without fear or apprehension, close the door for just a minute or two and then open and allow him out. Do this when he is eating his treats or playing with his toy. Small steps are important for a puppy, we do not want him to feel trapped. Soon his anxiety, if any, will deminish and he will trust the process. Give him a command to enter, such as "crate time" or "kennel". Encourage him by pointing to the inside of the crate with a treat in your hand. Sit quietly near the crate for five minutes, and then go into another room for a few minutes. Return, sit quietly for a minute, and then let him out of the crate. Repeat this process several times a day, then gradually increase the length of time you leave him in the crate and the length time you're out of his sight. This may take several days or several weeks. Use your command word to put him in his crate along with a treat. You might also want to leave him with a few safe toys in the crate. Do not prolong a departure by saying good bye's, this can lead to excitement—they should be matter-of-fact. Just give him a quick praise, give him a treat for entering the crate, and then leave quietly. Keep arrivals low key to avoid increasing his anxiety over when you will return. When you return home, keep it low key, this will keep your dog balanced. Never reward excited behavior with enthusiasm. Crate your dog for short periods of time when you're home so he doesn't associate crating with being left alone. It may be a good idea to put the crate in your bedroom or nearby in a hallway, especially if you have a puppy. Puppies often need to go outside to eliminate during the night, and you'll want to be able to hear your puppy when he whines to be let outside. Once your dog is sleeping through the night with his crate near you, you can begin to gradually move it to the location you prefer, although time spent with your dog—even sleep time—is a chance to strengthen the bond between you and your pet. If your puppy whines in the middle of the night, it is hard to determine if he needs to eliminate or just wants out of the crate. With the previous steps above, your pet should know by now that he is not rewarded for whining by being let out. So, take your puppy outside to eliminate, praise him, and put him back in until the next morning. Start early and use plenty of positive reinforcements. They will be more happy and confident if they understand that you are in charge. Mini Bernedoodle pups are intelligent, and they will quickly learn what is expected of them. Here are a at home training tips for Mini Bernedoodles — there are also many good resources online. This will be home to your MiniBernedoodle pup when they sleep or when you are away. Make sure the crate is big enough that your pup can comfortably lie down, sit, and stand up. Place some comfortable rags or mattresses for them to sleep on and lure them inside with their favorite toys. Every time they pop into the crate willingly, give them a treat or play with them to show your appreciation. Many pups come to see their crate as a safe place to go when they want to rest or need a break. Potty Training One of the most challenging parts of the training is teaching your MiniBernedoodle pup to do their job at the right place. You will need to be patient and use many positive reinforcements while showing them the right place to do their business. Take the puppy out first thing in the morning and after every time that they eat, drink, or play. Make sure you reward them when they poo or pee at the proper place. Socializing You need to start socializing your mini doodle puppy as soon as possible. Although these puppies are quite even-tempered, they can also be anxious around strangers. To avoid unpleasantness later on, when guests come around, start training your pup to socialize when they are still babies. You have to train your pup to socialize with not just humans but with other dogs as well. Many people tend to think that dogs get along with dogs. Frequent walks and visits to doggy daycare and dog parks are great training tools. The more they see and interact with other pups and people the better their social skills will be. A well-behaved, friendly dog is a pleasure to be around since they are safe and loved by all. Barking Training Another problem you might face with your Bernedoodle pup is barking — this is their way of expressing themselved. The will most often do this for food, when they need to go outside, to alert you of strangers, or to get your attention. Try to understand the reason behind their barking so you can find a solution. For instance, if your pup mostly barks for food, have their feed ready at their place at fixed times every day. They will quickly learn that there is a time and will wait more patiently. Again, reward them the first few times they wait patiently for the food without barking. It will help them to understand what they are expected to do. Outdoor Walks - Leash Training Start out by introducing your puppy to their harness or leash. Let her wear in around the house for short periods of time while you are playing. Teach you puppy to come to you for treats around the house when you ask them to. Progress to holding the leash and asking them to follow you for the upcoming treats. Practice inside first, then outside as they become more comfortable. Here is a great leash training article from the American Kennel Club. Discourage Nipping Puppies playing with other pups will nip out of sheer playfulness. Your Mini Bernedoodle puppy might do the same when playing with you. But you have to train them that nipping is not allowed. The point to note here is that nipping is not the same as mouthing, a typical dog trait for showing affection. The difference lies in the force. So, you have to teach your Mini Bernedoodle pup the difference between mouthing and nipping. Eventually, your pup will understand the difference between nipping and mouthing. They will learn that nipping will not get them anywhere and learn to control the amount of force they use when play-biting. Verbal Cues Every dog understands a few human words. You, too, can train your Bernedoodle pup to follow verbal cues of things that you want them to do. For instance, when potty training your pup, you may use the word potty. Just make sure you use the same word every time. When your puppy poos after you say the word reward them, to show that this is what you are asking of them. You can use similar simple words for eating, going out, playtime, treats, and so on. If you are consistent they will learn to associate the word and will follow your verbal cues. Final Words Mini Bernedoodle puppies are a pleasure to be around. They are wonderfully friendly, active, and playful family-friendly dogs. Early and proper training will head off many difficulties. You will have a fantastic companion for life whose love is irreplaceable and completely unselfish. Pleasant Creek Mini Mini Bernedoodles puppies are socialized and positive behaviors are encouraged from the start! Laura: .At Stokeshire, we begin crate training at 6. To crate train your doodle, no matter their size, you should follow these steps consistently: Introduce your doodle to their crate using positive reinforcement. We like to use a soft crate for the first few weeks, keeping them next to our bed. Place treats and comforting items like blankets and favorite toys in the crate. Begin feeding your pup meals in the crate. Every two hours, take your doodle outside. Make sure that you are bringing them straight from the crate to the door each time. Ensure that every time the crate door is opened, you bring your puppy outside. Be mindful of giving your doodle adequate playtime and bonding time with you. Continue these steps until your puppy always goes to the door when they need to potty. This article will answer any questions you have about crate training, potty training, house training, and creating a better-behaved dog. It will cover each size variation and the details you need to know in caring for each unique doodle breed. Crate training can seem intimidating at first, but with a brilliant breed like the doodle, it will be a piece of cake! Crate Training doodles Crate training is a method frequently used to train puppies. The process designates a safe space for your pup and instills in your doodle that, when they leave the crate, it is for a potty break. You may find it difficult or unsettling to leave your pup in a crate, especially during the first few weeks that they are home, and you want to cuddle and love your new doodle. However, establishing a routine as soon as possible will be the fastest and easiest way to guarantee your dog has fewer potty accidents in your home. How To Crate Train doodle Puppies The process you will follow to crate train your doodle puppies consists of the following steps: Introduce them to the crate and use plenty of positive reinforcement. Positive reinforcement will be your greatest ally in the crate training method. It allows your puppy to feel safe. Set some treats or toys in the crate and have it decked out with blankets and other comforting items. Allow them to sniff around the area and decide for themselves. Start feeding them meals in the crate, making this a safe spot where they can let their guard down. Always keep water in the crate and make it a nice place to rest. Take your puppy out every 2 hours and always take them directly outside after they come out of their crate. Make sure that while crate training, especially in the early stages, when the crate door is opened, you bring your doodle pup directly outside. Make sure that they are getting a balance of play and bonding time but are still going out every two hours or so, then directly back to their crate. For the most part, this is what the first month or two will run until you can trust them to tell you when they need to go out by going directly to the door. By the 6-month mark, your puppy will be able to hold their bladder for around hours, but you should never make a dog of any age hold their bowels and bladder for over 8 hours. There is no exact timeline for how long this process will take because all dogs are different, but it should last around weeks for most dogs. You could see drastic results in the first week and be able to offer your doodle more playtime, but you should remain diligent no matter how fast your pup catches on. By the third month, they should be taking you to the door or pawing at it when they have to go. The goal of crate training is that they will be able to communicate to you when they need to go in the future. If they are showing significant progress, reward them with more freedom but continue taking them out at the same time while heading directly to the door each time. It will be less about how long it takes for them to pick it up and more about your determination to keep them focused on those good habits for months, so they become permanent behaviors. The Potty Schedule Outlined In case you prefer a more specific outline or blueprint for scheduling, the following list gives the times that you should make sure to bring your doodle outside to use the bathroom: First thing when you wake up in the morning Before each play break Every 2 hours or so during the afternoon After their nap After each meal about minutes after eating to digest and have to go badly After drinking lots of water Right before bed As you can see, your doodle should get plenty of time outside of the crate. If you are not offering them this free time, you are doing it unethically and irresponsibly. It will be a gradual process of integrating them into the crate, and then once they are trained, slowly integrating them out of the crate while leaving the door open as an option. Follow these steps to implement the crate training process correctly: Start with more social hours at first with lots of potty breaks. After the first week or so, slowly add more crate time and reduce the amount of free social hours, adding an hour or two a day for the first few weeks. The middle of the process week should be very focused on maintaining a schedule. Two hours in the crate Right outside for a potty break. At this point, you can increase the social hours and reduce the crate hours. They will catch on in time, and they will finish their training when they are ready. Remember that accidents will happen during this training, and it is important not to punish your puppy because of them. You can add the following items to make it cozy for your pup: Fuzzy blankets A small water bowl Toys Chew bones Use rubber that is good for puppy teeth and gums. Do not use a real bone that could sliver off into sharp pieces. This could be a choking hazard for canines of any age, so you need to be very careful in selecting bones. These are some comforts that will make the crate feel like a safe haven instead of a punishment. I recently wrote the guide to the best toys for doodles. I discuss crate training related topics such as boredom and separation anxiety, as well as the best toys to help curb these behaviors. This will only make them fear the crate and you, making the process take significantly longer or not work at all. Make it cozy and safe. Make meal-time designated to the crate. Leave treats in the crate when they successfully hold it for a potty break. Slowly add to the amount of time they must hold it. Some go by the method of the month to hour ratio for potty breaks. For example, if your puppy is two months old, they can hold it for two hours. If your puppy is three months old, they can hold it for three hours, and so on. Develop a term you say excitedly to invite them to go back to their crate. The reason that crate training works is because a dog is a relatively hygienic animal that will not want to sit with their urine or fecal matter. Some reasons why you should crate train your doodle are: It teaches them not to poop or pee where they sleep. It helps strengthen their resolve to control their bowels and bladder. This offers you peace of mind knowing you are not leaving them to develop bad habits. It helps your dog become well-trained for travel and comfortable with future crate-required plans. It offers them a safe shelter that is all their own. It lets them know that you alone establish their schedule. It helps the dog see you as the alpha and aids in your retaining control. This avoids having an out-of-control puppy that is beyond training. It will end up being their security blanket, and if done correctly, crate-training offers them a space they can retreat in for serenity and solitude. Mistakes to Avoid When Crate Training Your doodle There are plenty of ways to accidentally do a disservice to your dog while crate training them. This will result in them fighting you the entire time, and you risk them not properly being potty trained. You will need to take them out often to avoid them sitting in their waste. You may consider taking them out every hour, but you must take them out at least every two hours. Do not confuse crate training with locking them up all day because they will need many potty and social breaks. Keep in mind that their bladders might be larger, and they can hold it for longer, but not more than hours. You may have to reprogram their brain that they need to hold it unless they are outside. They want to be creating a relationship with you and the world. If they are not getting time to play and enjoy human interaction, your doodle can quickly become depressed or develop anxiety. This is probably the most important takeaway you should hold on to. Now that you understand the basics of crate training, you must learn the differences between each type of doodle. The doodle breed overall has won countless blue ribbons, is the national dog of France, and is known for its pedigree and class. The three classifications for doodles that are based on their size are: Toy — The smallest variation will often be less than 10 inches tall and weigh under 9 pounds. They are bred from larger doodles, so they retain the same behavioral and personality characteristics as larger doodles. Miniature — The miniature doodle is closer to the toy doodle in size and is between 11 to 15 inches tall and weighs between 10 and 20 pounds. Standard — The largest variation of doodle will be over 16 inches tall with most being around 25 to 30 inches tall and weigh between 40 and 75 pounds. Selecting A Crate for Your doodle There are tons of crates to choose from, but your primary considerations going into the crate selection will be the following: Select a crate that allows your dog to stand up, spin around, and not feel claustrophobic. You will want it a few inches taller than their height when standing straight. If there is room to designate a bathroom area in the crate, it is too large. Crates for pets will most commonly come in the following materials: Wire Plastic Fabric If you select a wire crate, your pup can see their surroundings. This allows them to look around and feel included, while a plastic crate may have walls that make them feel too confined or left out. Best Crates for Each doodle Size It can be difficult to know what size crate will work best for your doodle. Here are my favorite crates on Amazon for each toy, miniature, and. Crate Training Your Poodle: Behavioral Problems and Solutions Your dog will sometimes cry during the early stages of their crate training. Some common behavioral issues of the doodle breed to be aware of are: Barking at all hours of the night Digging holes in the yard or your carpet Chewing on furniture or shoes Jumping the fence when let outside Stealing human food Hand chewing or biting Potty accidents Many of these behaviors are triggered by a bored doodle that is not getting enough socialization, exercise, or bonding time. Play more games with them Provide toys that are mentally stimulating, like puzzles that release treats Provide more chew toys if they are biting hands. They may be teething and need special Puppy Chew Toys Teach them more tricks and take opportunities to train them Your doodle is very intelligent and loves to be trained. Give them more brain activity and tasks to accomplish, like training, and the happier your doodle will be. Dogs like to feel a sense of purpose, just like humans. Show them more attention, and most of these bad habits will cease. Without adequate care, your doodle will become depressed, anti-social, anxious, or downright badly behaved. Check out this video to help stop your doodle from barking in her crate: Final Tips on The Crate Training Process Potty training your doodle puppy will be a challenging but worthwhile process! This psychological training will condition them to follow your lead, have their safe-space and territory, while also communicating more clearly when they need to go outside. Take their lead in how ready they are to be free of the crate. If they cry at night, it is normal. Animals get scared of the dark, just like humans. Reduce their anxiety by making them feel less isolated. When your puppy has playtime, leave the crate door open. You may notice that they go back in willingly. The right crate connects to their instincts and should be well-embraced by the doodle breed. If you are going to commit, commit properly by avoiding punishments and making this a consequence-free period of learning for them. In Conclusion Take the crate training technique on in baby-steps. The tortoise beat the hare for a reason. Offer your dog love, affection, treats, and consistency — and they will be potty-trained in no time! Crate training should not be about leaving them in the crate all day, but more about instilling healthy habits. The crate should feel like their safe space. Find more ways to add comforts and offer them treats each time they go in their crate. Be mindful not to rush the process or force it upon them. It will happen naturally as you develop your routine with one another. Bernedoodles are a popular breed for dog lovers looking for a non-shedding, hypoallergenic pup. But, in case you need a refresher, Bernedoodles are a cross between a Bernese mountain dog and a poodle. They typically weigh between pounds and stand at inches. Bernedoodles are known to be goofy, clever, gentle, and loyal. Though many Bernedoodles are non-shedding, all Bernedoodles require some grooming. Their coat can be either wavy or curly and may be long or short. The amount of grooming your Bernedoodle will need depends on their coat type. Like all dogs, Bernedoodles need regular exercise. They enjoy walks, hikes, and playing fetch. The breed is absolutely perfect for people with active lifestyles. Why Crate Train Your Bernedoodle? Seeing dogs inside crates can be a bit sad. But, the truth is, dogs are den animals. A crate can provide your Bernedoodle with just that. They will, however, need your help to get used to it. Crate training is fundamental for several reasons. Easier Life for You and Your Bernedoodle Dogs are den animals, but the crate can become their jail without training. Crate training is also helpful when you travel with your Bernedoodle. A Safe Space for Your Bernedoodle If you have young children in the house, a crate can provide your Bernedoodle with a safe space to retreat to when they need a break from all the commotion. Crates are also essential for puppies. Dogs of all ages and breeds can benefit from it. If you have an adult Bernedoodle, they can still learn to love their crate! And again, this helps both you and your dog. So, why not give it a try? It will take some time and patience to get them used to it. Step 2: Leave the Door Open. Just let them sniff around and get used to it at their own pace. Step 3: Introduce Your Bernedoodle to the Crate. Sit beside the crate and call your Bernedoodle over. When they get to you, give them a treat. Do this a few times until they associate the crate with something positive. Step 4: Close the Door for a Minute or Two. Then gradually increase the amount of time you leave them in there. You can use this time to play games, read a book, or just relax. The important thing is that your Bernedoodle associates the crate with good things. Once your Bernedoodle is crate trained, they can start sleeping in their crate at night. Look at it as a bonding experience for the two of you! Here are some tips and tricks to make it easier for both of you: Put Their Favorite Toys in the Crate. Create a Schedule. Dogs love routines, so having a set schedule for crate time will help them feel more comfortable. Be Patient and Consistent. Your Bernedoodle will sense your frustration, and it will only make the process harder. Treats, Treats, Treats! As always, positive reinforcement is key. Be sure to give your Bernedoodle plenty of treats when they do something right. This will make them more likely to cooperate with you. Conclusion Your Bernedoodle is a gentle giant companion. If you want to add a Bernedoodle puppy to your family, click here to browse our Bernedoodle puppies for sale. Contact Us.

Contact us - Phone: or email: goldengirlskennels hotmail. Take a browse around our website and see what puppies we offer. Please feel free to contact us for any questions and enquiries. We do cutting edge health clearances. Many of the health clearances we have on our dogs are not being done by other Golden Retriever breeders. Many of our health clearances, less than Golden Retrievers out of the hundreds of thousands registered with the AKC have been tested for. If we can gain knowledge to ensure we are breeding the best of the best through health clearances then we do it! We are committed to breeding healthy goldens! One of our dogs doing some therapy work at a rehab facility. One of our girls is spending time loving on someone in a rehab facility. Dogs make such a difference in the healing of people. Koa, with the kids- our dogs are a huge part of our family! Loving on a puppy! Buying a dog off the internet is a scary experience and one that is becoming more and more popular. We ask questions of each other and hope you will feel like we are a good fit. Please take a moment to look at our family and get a sense of who we are. We have a large family with very active and successful kids. We have a lot of love to share and sincerely hope you get that vibe from the pictures and information we have chosen to share with you. Enjoy Skiing for the holidays. Every chance we get we try to all get together Draft night- what a fun time our family has when we all get together. Our family is so full of love. We try to get together as much as we can. With three kids who now live out of state that can be a challenge. We understand how very blessed we are and try to give back as much as we can. The family in CSU gear. Two of our boys have now graduated from playing football for CSU it is obviously a big part of our lives. Now on to a bigger arena. A much younger picture of our family. Dogs and kids- what can be better? We have been blessed with amazing kids. Glad to have him back on US soil. Young and old our dogs bring so much joy to our lives and the people who adopt them from us. We are so proud of where their lives are taking them but we miss them like crazy and do not get to see them nearly enough. Our oldest son was in the Navy and his beautiful bride who is in the US Coast Guard- so blessed to have such a great daughter in law. Kallie and Bryce even adopted one of our goldens to add love to their life How blessed we are that Kallie and Bryce had added to their beautiful family Our beautiful grandaughter taking her dog Colley for a walk in CA Look at this happy, growing family. We are so lucky to get to share our lives with these great folks. He had the amazing opportunity to play for football for Colorado State University. Amazingly proud of him and humbled by his talent daily. Not only is he a great athlete but he is also a wonderful human- so proud of him. Look how handsome this guy is! Another one of our sons doing what he loves. We are so very blessed with the best kids and also spending our lives with these incredible dogs we have the privilege of raising as well! Our son getting the CSU Rams fired up before a game. He was a tight end for Colorado State University and loved every minute of it. He has been on two mission trips to Mexico and is so funny and helpful Our son was the Arizona Cardinals number one draft pick in ! Go Cardinals. Arizona Cardinals TE .So proud of you son, living your dream!!! One of our twin sons wrestling as a true freshman in college. He has a huge heart and a servants heart. He volunteers with Special Olympics, Food Bank, and so much more. What a great kid! This is our son wrestling at his first college regionals. He took third and is headed to Nationals to try to earn All American as a true freshman. Proud of the young man he is turning out to be. Our son Dylan is a Firemedic. A Fireman and a Paramedic. We could not be more proud of him. Dylan in his Fireman gear and his beautiful girlfriend Hallee who should get all the credit for being amazing- all the time! Our family gets together as much as we can. This little lady is so lucky to have Dylan as her Uncle. Dylan and Hallee sure clean up nice. Love these two and they are so fun to hang out with! Two of our children in Juarez, Mexico on a mission trip building a house for a family in need. Our family has been to Mexico on many mission trips to help out people that soon become family to us Watching the twins grow up and into close friendships is so fun. They have great times together and it is just beginning. Our daughter, Taya, has always loved singing. Our daughter wants to be an actress so she participates in singing and dance as well as volleyball. She has a huge love of animals and is a big help with all the dogs. She teaches us things every single day and look at her great smile!!! Taya has moved on to drama in High School and has been in every play since 9th grade. Love watching her. Serving the Lord and helping others is a huge priority in our lives. Many of our family have gone to Mexico to work in orphanages and build homes for families in need. It is a rewarding experience and the relationships we make are forever. We are involved in so many volunteer activities and it rubs off on others. Here we are picking corn for Food Bank of The Rockies. Our family motto is, "everyone has something to give". Life is sure rough when you are a Golden Retriever! To anyone who has been owned and loved by a great dog- we recommend this book. It is a true testament to the special and unconditional love that a dog has for it's Humans. This book will make you laugh, cry, and appreciate the dogs that are or have been in your life- just a little bit more. It is a story told from a dog's point of view and it will make you fall in love with your dog all over again! It is a book that you don't want to put down- a must read and a must have for every dog lover's library- a book you will read again and again. Cameron has done it again. If you have not read these books then you are missing out. Great stories about dogs. Silly dog. Our puppies spend time with our children and family from the day they are born until they go home. Our son when he was 8 years old, hanging out with Ilio, CGC in Maui Most of our dogs are imported so that we can get the lighter coat and blocky head- like this one from The Netherlands! Purebred Golden Retriever Puppies Buying a puppy is a big decision. We made that decision easy. Not knowing where your puppy has come from could lead to genetic health and socialization issues, and ultimately disappointment. There are even tons of puppy scams on the internet, some of which even try to imitate us! We believe dogs are not like family — they ARE family! Unlike other puppy adoption agencies in Ohio, we allow and actually encourage you to meet our Golden Retriever puppies for sale before you agree to take one home. Remember, too, that when it comes to getting a puppy, ultimately, you get what you pay for. You get a Golden Retriever you love, vetted for good health, from a breeder you trust. He has a very fun loving spirit and has made our family complete. Marcus and his family are very gracious and great to work with. We would highly recommend them for anyone looking for a Golden! She will be turning 9 months in a few weeks. I had a wonderful experience getting her through your company! So glad I got her. All Rights Reserved. It was originally developed in Scotland as a breed that could retrieve game both on land and in water. Today the Golden Retriever continues to be used as a working dog but is also a popular choice of family pet due to its good nature. The breed has a medium length wavy coat, which comes in a various light colours. The Golden Retriever is extremely loving and loyal, as well as being sociable and playful. These attributes mean the breed is especially good with children. It is quick to learn and always eager to please which means that training is not usually a problem. The Golden Retriever can be affected by some health problems so careful selection of a healthy family line is important. Golden Retriever Cons: The Golden requires lots of regular exercise coupled with frequent human interaction. It also proves a terrible security dog because of its fondness for friend and foe alike. Golden Retriever Pros: The Golden thrives alongside active lifestyles and is slow to have an enemy. Its kind expressions and sweet character make it a favorite family dog. Learn more about the Golden Retriever breed here. Related searches:.

Some dogs like Labradors have two layers of fur, which makes them ideal dogs for hunting waterfowl since they have an additional layer of hair to insulate them from water. Other dogs like poodles have a single layer of hair. Because their coat is dense and wiry, it does a great job of protecting them from cold temperatures. Puppies spend most of their time snuggling with their mother or with their littermates. As a result, they have little need for a dense and wiry coat. Puppies typically have hair that is soft and less dense than what you would find on an adult dog. In the case of poodles, puppies are usually born with hair that is soft and straight. As your puppy gets older, their hair will start becoming wavy or curly at the base. Your poodle will shed during the first few months of her life. Poodles are hypoallergenic dogs because they do very little shedding as adults, which means they release less pet dander than other dogs. However, poodle puppies have fast hair growth cycles. Old hair has to fall out to make room for new growth, resulting in shedding. Most dogs shed their puppy coat to make room for their adult coat around four to six months of age. However, poodle puppies tend to blow their coat later: Standard poodles usually lose their puppy coat around nine to 16 months of age. Miniature and toy poodles tend to shed their puppy coat earlier at nine months. This process is also longer than for other breeds. It can take up to three months for a Standard poodle to fully lose her puppy coat and grow her adult hair. Miniature and toy poodles can shed for as long as nine months before their adult coat comes in. Note that shedding can vary a lot from one individual to another. If you got your poodle from a breeder, ask when the parents lost their puppy coat and how much shedding they did. Can Poodles at cats be taught to get along? You will typically see hair accumulate where your puppy sleeps, or even find hair clinging to your hands and clothes after petting your pooch. The adult coat that grows will look very different. It should have a wiry or wooly texture and be denser than the puppy coat. A Black Poodle at the beach How to Manage Shedding There are a few things you can do to help your puppy shed her coat faster and prevent hair from accumulating in your home. Brushing Brushing is important. Plus, it stimulates circulation, which will help your pooch grow new hair. You should be able to remove most of the dead hair with a comb or slicker brush, but you might need a de-shedding tool if your puppy is losing a lot of hair. You should brush your puppy daily once she starts blowing her puppy coat. Bathing Bathe your pooch regularly. Warm water will open follicles and help your puppy shed old hair faster. You can use a de-shedding shampoo. These shampoos contain hydrating ingredients that support a healthy hair growth cycle. Diet A healthy diet and water intake are also important. You should feed a diet that is rich in vitamins and minerals to support a healthy skin and coat. As poodle owners know, regular grooming is an important part of taking care of your furry companion. Poodles have long hair that can become dirty and matted. Trimming this hair helps keep it clean. It also helps your poodle regulate her body temperature , especially if you live in a warm area. Most poodle owners schedule their first grooming appointment between 11 and 16 weeks. During her first trim, your poodle will not need to have a lot of hair removed. The groomer will probably focus on hair that could get in her eyes, trim the coat around the genitals since it can become dirty, and get your puppy used to having her nails trimmed. When your poodle starts blowing her puppy coat, you can take her to the groomer again for a warm bath and de-shedding shampoo. The groomer might not need to trim a lot of hair but bathing and brushing will help with managing shedding. You should take your poodle to the groomer again once her adult coat comes in. This longer and denser coat can become dirty and matted quickly without proper grooming. Plus, this thicker and denser hair can cause your poodle to become overheated if you live in a warm area. A happy Poodle running outside on the grass Wrap Up Poodle puppies tend to blow their puppy coat later than other breeds. You should start seeing a lot of shedding around nine months of age, but it can happen later for Standard poodles. You can manage to shed with brushing and bathing. The good news is that your poodle will shed very little once she grows her adult coat, but it also means you will have to take your pooch to the groomer regularly to prevent this coat from getting too long. My wife and I love playing with our active miniature Labradoodle Max. We want all Oodle puppies to be healthy and happy, have lots of fun and be part of the family. Load More. Often, this coat will look and feel much different than the future adult coat. Many Poodle puppies have very soft, wavy hair as opposed to the adult's thick and curly coat. This process usually takes about 9 months. Therefore, when a Poodle is approximately 18 months old, they will have their full adult coat. In some cases it will be 24 months until the adult coat comes in. During this time, the coat can become very matted. Large mats tangles can ruin a coat, often needing to be clipped off if they cannot be worked out by hand. For this reason, it is important to brush the coat with a pin brush very often and thoroughly during this stage. Once this change over is complete, the coat will be easier to maintain. The above also happens with Standard Poodles, however this stage does not last quite as long. The Standard Poodle will go through a coat change starting anytime between 9 and 16 months. The changeover will last approximately 3 months. Shedding It is said that a Poodle does not shed. This can be looked at 2 ways. A Poodle does not have the plush double coat that many breeds have. Poodles have a single, dense coat of curled hair. Just like human hair, it grows and some hairs do fall out. When the hairs fall out of a Poodle's coat, they often fall back into the coat. Therefore, a Poodle does not shed in the traditional sense of canine shedding. Because the hair can contain varying amounts of dandruff and some people can have allergies to that. In addition, all dogs have allergens, these are microscopic dander elements. The Poodle, and other dog breeds such as Schnauzers shed from their skin approximately every 21 days, thus greatly reducing the amount of allergens that could trigger an allergic reaction. Note: The coat is one of the most important elements that the Poodle breed is known for.For this reason, an owner should be aware of every hair issue that affects this dog breed. Find out more about the AllPoodleInfo Book. Hair Loss with Female Poodles For the female Poodle, the coat may thin and hair loss may occur when she is in heat and also when she is whelping a litter. For many female Poodles, the coat can be affected by hormonal changes, particularly a surge in estrogen that occurs when she is in a heat cycle and after giving birth and whelping her litter. The female's coat may thin out, sometimes so severely that skin is exposed in many areas. This can happen in random areas of the body. If this does happens, it can take up to 4 months for the Poodle's hair to grow back to normal. Unfortunately, by that time the dog will be almost ready to enter another heat cycle. Therefore, if you are not planning on breeding your Poodle and she suffers from hormonal hair loss, it is best to have her spayed. Among them are: Red Mange when your Poodle has an allergic reaction to microscopic mites that live on all dogs, this causes patches of hair loss Allergies from commercial dog food additives, dog shampoo and everything in between - intense itching can cause a dog to scratch so severely that hair is lost and scabs form Sebaceous Adenitis - This is an inherited medical issue that causes the coat to thin out or completely fall out, that can be stopped if all breeders test for SA before breeding dogs Castration responsive Dermatosis - A hair loss in young male Poodles that begins in the groin area and can spread over the body. Hypothyroidism - This causes the coat to become excessively thick and have an abnormal texture When Hair Does Not Grow Back When a Poodle has health issues which causes the hair to fall out or to thin; there is always a chance that the coat will not grow back as expected. This is called post loss alopecia. Studies are currently being done to understand this further. However, as of now, it is thought that there are certain changes that take place in the dog's skin because of the temperature changes that occur when the fur is gone or very thin. When this happens, it can take up to 24 months for the Poodle's coat to grow back. There have been some promising results in using Melatonin to help stimulate the hair follicles. We have a detailed section regarding the best shampoo for Poodles. Conditioners- The Poodle should have a coat conditioner applied to keep the hair soft, moist and tangle free. High quality brands will have anti-static compounds to keep hairs on the dog from becoming fly-a-ways and will contain mink oil which adds a gloss or luster to deepen and enrich the natural coat color. It is best to choose a brand that also contain PABA ultraviolet sunscreen to protect the Poodle from excessive ultraviolet radiation when your dog is outside. These conditioners contain protein to help rebuild and restructure the coat by bonding to the shaft of each individual hair. They help to add body to thin coats and improve its appearance and manageability. They also help to repel dirt that would otherwise stick to the coat and many do contain the needed ultraviolet sunscreen. With grooming, finishing spray is used during brushing and combing when no oil is desired on the Poodle's coat. You may also wish to see: Apricot Poodles - One of the most beautiful colors of this breed. Phantom Poodles - Photos and explanation regarding this gorgeous type of coat. Black Poodles - Solid black coats are a popular choice for owners when searching for a pup. All rights reserved. We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon. Share Us. Why have poodle coats evolved this way? What purpose do Poodle coats serve? Poodles were bred to be water-retrievers. Their job was to retrieve ducks from the water for hunters. Physical characteristics, like webbed feet, physique, and the thick, water-resistant coats were bred into the breed to help them swim and move easily in the water. Long, thick fur around the chest, ankles, and head kept vital body parts warm. Legs and the body were shaved short to aid agility in the water. Tangles and knots lead to serious matts very quickly and can be painful. They also trap dirt providing the perfect breeding ground for bacteria, and leading to skin conditions, infections, and sometimes costly trips to the vet! At home If you have a puppy, get them used to regular home-grooming to reduce stress later on. Establish a relaxing routine of daily brushing, focussing on areas where the most friction occurs, like the arm-pits, or anywhere a harness might rub. A coat that is clipped short will reduce daily brushing and help keep the coat clean in between visits. Red Berry Performance Shampoo or Aloe and Avocado An everyday wash that is great for woolly coats, freshening your dog between visits to the groomer. Providing a deep clean, our shampoo is ideal for dogs that are naturally drawn to muddy puddles and ponds. It is pH balanced and vitamin-enriched with Argan Oil and Pro-Vitamin B5, keeping fur strong, healthy, extra-manageable and clean with degreasing and deodorising properties. Brushing the head of a Poodle using a slicker brush The significant difference between the puppy and adult Poodle coats is their textures. Puppy hair is always softer. The adult Poodle coat is curly and coarser than the puppy coat. When your Poodle is a puppy, his coat will be wavy rather than curly. Ready to Adopt Puppyspot Poodle Adoption 5. They have placed over , puppies into homes in the US! Hair has a much longer growth cycle than fur, meaning it can grow long. The Puppy Coat Shedding Process A happy cream Poodle enjoying a field of grass in Spring The Poodle puppy coat shedding process may last between three months and nine months. Toy and Miniature Poodles usually take longer to shed their puppy coats, and Standard Poodles get it done more quickly. There seems to be a genetic component. In other words, your pet may follow the same pattern as his parents. Just continue doing correct grooming and keep your dog healthy. How to Manage the Mess Brushing your dog every day is the best way to cut down on the amount of hair that will end up all over your furniture. Try covering your furniture with throws and invest in a good vacuum. Once the process is over, your pet will have the adult Poodle coat that is famously good for people with allergies. A larger standard size Poodle. Grooming is more important than ever after the puppy coat sheds and the adult coat starts growing in. As the adult coat grows in, your dog will be especially prone to matting. Brush your dog every day to prevent this matting from developing. Use a brush with pin bristles on your Poodle daily during this period. What Is Matting? Coat matting is extreme tangling. Active and sometimes hyper dogs like Poodles with single coats are prone to matting. Never risk hurting your dog by trying to tackle serious matting with a brush. The leading cause of matting is inadequate grooming. Why Is Matting a Problem? Using a blunt comb to groom and style a Mini brown Poodle dog Coat matting is harmful to your Poodle. It will cause severe problems if you ignore it. In addition, your dog will probably scratch and even bite at it, leading to a dangerous infection. Once cuts and lesions develop under the mats, they have trouble healing because of the moist atmosphere and debris trapped in the coat. How To Prevent Matting As I mentioned, the Poodle coat is especially likely to end up matted when the adult coat is growing in. Daily brushing with an appropriate pin bristle brush is key to preventing matting. Also, be aware that your Poodle is more likely to have this problem if it gets mud on its coat. So when you bring your dog outdoors for play, and he gets dirty, wash off the mud right away. If you have any doubts that you can get out the matting without hurting your dog, cut out the matting yourself or bring your pooch to the groomer. Pretty odd to look at! First things first: get the right kind of brush. Many experts say that slicker brushes with stiff wire, short bristles are best for Poodles. Find one that is rectangular or square in shape. Always brush thoroughly, getting down to the skin. If it is, you need a different brush. You should bathe your dog at least once every one or two months. Poodle owners usually bring their pooches to professional groomers for their trims. Shampooing a Poodle Only use a shampoo that is formulated for dogs. This depends on the severity of the matting. You may be able to take out mild matting with a high-quality dog grooming brush with pin bristles. Look for grooming tools specially designed for de-matting. If the matting is more stubborn, use a detangling spray or conditioner formulated for dogs. If you have to clip off matting, make sure you regularly groom the new hair that grows in. Are Poodle Puppies Hypoallergenic? Showing the extra soft and lovely ears of a Labradoodle dog. This wavy coat Labradoodle has either a red or apricot coat depending who you ask. Yes, adult Poodles are considered hypoallergenic. Well, as hypoallergenic as a dog can be. That is because of the shedding it will do when it loses its puppy coat. Also, keep in mind that no breed is completely hypoallergenic. However, if you notice specific other symptoms along with hair loss, your dog may have a separate underlying problem that needs veterinary attention. Worrying symptoms include:. English Saddle clip Continental clip A poodle can have any of the above hair types or some combination of them. Read on to find out more about the different types of poodle hair. Types of Poodle Hair Explained There are many types of poodle hair that you can find on poodles, and these different hairstyles are dependent on the grooming practices used as well as the age and breeding stock that the dog comes from. This hair type starts out as super soft, thin, wispy, and straight, but begins to grow curly and denser around the base as the pup grows older. Curly Coat Once a poodle transitions out of its puppy coat, it develops a thick curly hair type that covers the entire dog from head to toe. This coat is non-shedding and hypoallergenic; while poodles are well-known for their lack of shedding, this also means that their curly coat needs constant maintenance to avoid matting. Corded Coat Another hair type seen less commonly in poodles but commonly seen in other water dogs, such as the Portuguese water dog , is the corded coat. Improper Coat Unfortunately, due to a lack of careful selection during breeding, many poodles that are kept as companion animals rather than show dogs exhibit an improper coat, at least with regard to the breed standard. Improper coats are not curly throughout and will often exhibit soft waves in patches or across the entire dog. Improper coats are easier to brush, but a fault in the show. This kind of hairstyle is practical for pet poodles but is also the only cut permissible in a competitive show for any poodle under twelve months of age. English Saddle Clip An English saddle clip on a poodle is what most people think of when they imagine a fancy cartoon poodle—legs, tail, and chest cut into elaborate pom-poms, with shaved sections in between each ball of hair. This hairstyle was much more popular in the mid-twentieth century than it is today when puppy clips are more popular outside of dog shows. The clip has also lost popularity in dog shows, as it is not flattering to many dogs and is said to disguise the lines of the dog, making it a less attractive choice during judging. The English saddle clip is generally considered to be a poor choice for soft-coated dogs. Continental Clip A Continental clip is a similar hairstyle on a poodle to an English saddle clip, with the major difference being how the rear legs and back are cut. In an English saddle clip, the rear legs are cut into a series of pom-poms, whereas in the Continental clip, these sections are shaved. A Continental clip, like an English saddle clip, can be very difficult to maintain. Check out this article I recently wrote on 25 haircuts for poodles. Poodles and Hypoallergenic Hair One of the major advantages of poodles is that their hair is hypoallergenic, which means that it does not tend to cause problems for most people who have dog allergies. This makes poodles a good pet choice for anyone who wants a dog but is susceptible to the sniffles and leaky eyes around them. If you are on a budget, it may be more economical to purchase an allergy kit from Amazon. My favorite is the 5Strands deluxe tester. With this test kit, you can easily test for any pet-related allergies you may have. Check it out here on Amazon for more information and current pricing. While many dogs such as golden retrievers have a double coat, which is comprised of a soft undercoat that is protected by an outer layer of guard hairs, poodles only have a single coat. The biggest difference between the two coat types is that single-coated dogs do not shed and are considered hypoallergenic. Double-coated dogs tend to shed throughout the season and are a bane for those with allergies since their shedding also results in a lot of lost dander that tends to cause allergies to act up. Does Poodle Hair Stop Growing? In most cases, this is a very undesirable outcome. This coat type can be seen in other water dogs, too, such as the Portuguese water dog. But to make sure that the cords are presentable for exhibition, groomers will train them for a uniform appearance. Problems with Poodle Hair Despite the fact that it is hypoallergenic and lovely to look at, poodle hair comes with its own particular set of grooming and health problems. The hair of poodles has a tendency to thin and fall out, especially in female dogs that are going through heat or other hormonal surges. Here are some other common issues with poodle hair: Alopecia X: This is a balding condition caused by growth hormone deficiencies during the transition to adulthood in poodles and can cause loss of hair along both sides of the body. Luckily this is strictly a cosmetic issue for poodles generally caused by poor breeding practices and does not cause any other health problems. Allergies: Like many purebred dogs that have enjoyed an immense amount of popularity, some poodle breeding lines have developed a series of allergies to things like food and shampoos that affect the skin, eyes, and hair. Excessive itchiness can cause a poodle to scratch its own hair out eventually, and even form sores and hot spots. Sebaceous Adenitis: Like alopecia X, this is a hereditary disease of poodles and other breeds that are caused by poor breeding practices. Neutering is the recommended treatment or spaying, as the condition can show up in females too. Lemonade Pet Insurance insurance has enabled me to afford the highest level of veterinary care for my dog, Angus. Especially after he was diagnosed with cancer a few years back. Visit the Lemonade Health Insurance website here to get a free quote and see why Lemonade is a good fit to protect the health of your dog too. It easily gets the tangles out and is a great quality product. You can see more details and the current price here. The main cause of matting on a poodle is not brushing a poodle correctly or often enough. The cure for matting is to work the mat out with a proper grooming tool and brush the dog properly or more often going forward to avoid the formation of new mats. Matting can become severe if not addressed early on, and if matting becomes too serious, the only option is to cut the mass of hair off the poodle entirely or shave it down to the skin in the area where the mat is located. Obviously, for show coats, this can be extremely detrimental. The best preventative to avoid mats is to set up a strict and regular grooming schedule for your poodle. As long as a poodle is brushed regularly, their coats are not that much more difficult to manage than many other breeds of dog. Once a puppy is used to the process of being brushed, it will be much easier to train the poodle to stand still, and the process of brushing becomes a much quicker and more enjoyable process. The easiest way to regularly brush a poodle is to train it to stand and stay on a table. Training dogs to give a paw readily can be helpful for simplifying this process, as many dogs are naturally reluctant to let anyone handle their feet. Teaching the poodle to respond to simple positioning commands can be very useful in accomplishing this. The more careful you are in grooming the dog, the more trust you will build up and the less reluctant the dog will be to get brushed. As you work, spray each section with a conditioning spray to reduce potential tangles. Note: This is especially important on darker-colored poodles, such as black or chocolate poodles, since fleas and ticks will not show up as readily against their hair as in lighter-colored dogs. Be sure to talk calmly to the poodle throughout this process and offer treats when they are behaving correctly, as this will encourage good behavior in the future. Once the coat is brushed out, the poodle can then be bathed. If you own a poodle pup, you may encounter some special challenges when it comes to grooming. I wrote a comprehensive guide all about how to groom your Poodle puppy. Check it out here. Home Grooming vs. Professional Grooming Many people are intimidated by the grooming of poodles and assume that to keep a poodle looking good, they have to be professionally groomed much more often than the average dog. The downside is that it takes a bit of practice grooming a poodle in order to do it well. Since a poodle is years of commitment and professional grooming can cost thousands of dollars over the course of its life, it can be a financial good investment to learn how to groom your poodle early on. Plus, it also acts as a good bonding activity. Bathing Poodle Hair In order to maintain a good coat condition, poodles should ideally be bathed approximately once every three weeks. Too much bathing can also irritate the skin or make existing skin irritations worse. I recently wrote this article on how to properly give your poodle a bath. Poodle Hair: Fussy but Not Complicated While poodle hair can be somewhat fussy to deal with compared to a smooth-haired breed of dog like a hound, these majestic dogs can be easily maintained with just a few tools and some regular brushing. Consistent brushing is the key, not fancy tools or professional grooming. I hope you found it helpful. Here are some products that I personally believe every owner should employ to help ensure the best quality of life for their dogs. But in all honesty, these are the exact products that I use and recommend to everyone, even my own family. Lemonade Pet Insurance : Lemonade Pet Insurance has enabled me to afford a very high level of veterinary care for my dog, Angus. Even after he was diagnosed with cancer a few years back. This program actually works, and at a small fraction of the cost of hiring a dog trainer! Pet Plate is the dog food subscription service I use to provide extremely healthy, pre-portioned meals for my dog. Pet Plate gives my dog Angus the highest quality nutrition at a very affordable price. BarkBox : Without a doubt, my dog enjoys Barkbox more than anything else I buy him. BarkBox delivers a customized box of themed toys, treats, and other products to your door each month. In addition, I like that a percentage of proceeds is donated to local animal shelters. I Purchase this service for my dog Angus and have saved hundreds of dollars over visiting his local vet with questions or more minor health concerns. Brent Hartman I'm Brent Hartman. I've been a dog lover my entire life and have owned many animals over the years. When my black lab Angus passed away, I was looking for another friend to share my life with. As a result of my research, I've come to love poodles and wanted to share some of what I've learned with you. Whether you're looking to adopt a poodle, or already own one, I created Poodle report to be the ultimate guide to help you find the answers you need. Recent Posts. Poodle hair is a single layer of a mixture of soft and wiry fur that curls. Poodle hair sheds very little. Yes, I know that the phrase non-shedding is used to describe so many breeds and mix breeds, however, there is no such thing as hair that does not shed. Poodle hair does not shed out of coat. The shedding hair stays in the coat and twists around the curls causing matting if not brushed regularly. So in most cases there will be no hair on the floor. Sometimes if the Poodle is a heavy shedder, yes, you heard me correctly, you will see little tuffs of hair on the floor. Because Poodle hair is a single layer coat and curly, it will fluff out and become poofy when cleaned, brushed and blow dried. From a clean coat any look is possible with a Poodle. This is really the fun part of owning a Poodle. The Poodle is a very high maintenance breed, but the cost of grooming is a small price to pay for canine companionship that is without equal. In young puppies, their hair is soft and can vary between soft waves to pronounced curls. As the puppy grows, so does the time required for grooming. As the Standard Poodle puppy matures, he will go through a coat change. When this occurs varies from dog to dog, but it usually happens when the puppy is between 9 and 18 months. During this coat change, it may be necessary to brush your poodle on a daily basis to prevent him from becoming matted. This stage is usually when the groomer will suggest a short coat cut, especially in the hot summer months. This brings up the subject of the changing seasons. One needs to realize that in the hot summer months the length of the coat will effect the body temperature. We love having different looks for our Poodles. In the summer they have fun, short cuts, while in the winter we usually have the more sophisticated looks. Either you will find a good groomer this may be harder than you think , or you will want to do your own grooming. If you are interested in learning how to groom your poodle, here are a few things you should know. Grooming takes patience and understanding. Fortunately there are some wonderful video training courses and books that can aid you along the way. If you live within a reasonable mile radius of me I offer customize grooming courses: hands on learning. Even if you do not plan on doing your own major grooming there are basic grooming tips you will want to implement weekly, perhaps even daily. Remember, Poodles are born to groom. They love all the attention and this is a wonderful bonding time for both of you. This will be good practice for later on — for both of you! Yes, haircuts are essential for Poodles. Their thick, long, curly coats are prone to tangling and trapping debris. When will my Poodle puppy need haircuts? Then, at around four months old, they will shed their puppy coats and start to grow out their rougher adult coats. Frequency As a general rule, Poodles should have their coats clipped every weeks once their adult coats grow out, whatever your desired length. This is because they grow so quickly and can become matted just as fast! What equipment should I use? There are three main types of dog grooming scissors; straight scissors, curved scissors, and thinning shears, and they all perform slightly differently. Straight grooming scissors are a multi-task tool, they have straight blades for general, basic grooming, creating straight lines in the coat, and adding the finishing touches to haircuts. Curved dog grooming shear has a curved blade that can be used to fine-tune and shape specific areas of the coat, such as the paws and hindquarters. Thinning shears have a cutting edge on one blade and teeth on the other, and there are also double thinners that have teeth on both blades. They are designed to remove lots of hair in even sections for a natural finish, and they can also be used to blend out the harsh lines from clippers and texturize the coat. Or, if you just need something for the occasional touch-up between visits to the groomer, a simple pair of electrical motor clippers will do just fine. Electric motor clippers are also good for keeping short coats short. You should also be aware of the types of blades that come with clippers. The higher the number of the blade, the more hair that it will remove. Or, you can get guards that fit a single blade to customize the length, which is a lot more convenient. Start by showing them the equipment and getting them used to the sight and sound of it before you cut any hair. Reward them just for being around it and then try cutting a small section of hair. If they react well, reward them again, and then do another section. Keep rewarding them as you go and again after the haircut is finished. Do it in a well-lit, comfortable part of the home that your pup can stand up in. Once you get them into a routine — keep it up! Work your way down the legs first, then from the neck to the hindquarters, or vice versa, and then the tail. Take care with the feet, underside, and head, shielding their eyes from falling fur. Use long strokes and go from the neck down to the back legs. How to deal with grooming anxiety If your pup is afraid of the scissors or clippers, take it really slowly and try to make it an enjoyable experience. You can do this by breaking up the haircut into smaller sessions to make it less stressful and taking breaks in between each one. Give your dog lots of praise and a reward every time you take a break and ask another family member to comfort them during the haircut. You can start brushing your Poodle from any age. To brush them, simply go in the direction of hair growth using short strokes. Hold the fur at the base with your free hand to remove knots, and use a mat remover for any stubborn mats. Bathing a Poodle puppy As for bathing, you should give your Poodle pup their first proper bath at months old to help them shed their puppy coat, unless they get seriously dirty before that. However, you can give your pup a bath any time after weeks of age to get them used to the sensation, but avoid overbathing them, as this will strip the fur of its natural oils and make it dry and brittle. Once they have their adult coats, your Poodle pup will need a bath once a month. You can even buy shampoo that is designed especially for Poodle coats. To give your Poodle a bath, lather up their wet fur with the shampoo, massage it in, leave it for as long as directed on the bottle, and rinse thoroughly. Follow up with conditioner if necessary. Starting out just training her own Border Collies, she gradually expanded to local classes and seminars, now she travels as far as Europe and teaches students all over the world on how to train their dogs in a positive, bonding, game-based way. She is known for her clear, step-by-step training that lets beginners and advanced dog trainers see lasting results very quickly.

Once he has reached maturity, you can switch to adult dog food. Not all breeds reach maturity at the same age, however, so this can make it harder to know when to switch. How Long to Feed Puppy Food Puppies need a complete and balanced puppy food until they reach maturity. For dogs, adulthood depends more on breed size than their age. Because large and giant breeds take longer to mature, they need to eat puppy food longer than small- or medium-sized breeds. Medium Dog Breeds: Medium-sized dogs weigh between 21 and 50 pounds at maturity. They tend to reach maturity around 12 months of age. They need to eat puppy food longer than small- and medium-sized breeds. They can tell you when to switch to an adult dog food and help make it a successful transition. Leftovers in a bowl could signal that your puppy is getting full and needs less calories throughout the day. Continuing to feed puppy food past the point of maturity could cause him to become overweight, which can lead to other health problems. Choose a complete and balanced adult dog food formula once your puppy reaches maturity to help him maintain his ideal body condition. When to Switch Puppy to Adult Food Once you know when your puppy will reach maturity, you can decide when to switch to adult food. If your puppy will be full grown at 12 months, you can start transitioning him to an adult formula around his first birthday. How to Transition Puppy to an Adult Dog Food When you stop feeding puppy food, you must change more than just the food he eats. The number of meals and portion sizes will shift, too. Most puppies eat three meals a day , but adult dogs can eat just two meals per day. A gradual transition helps prevent stomach upset. Days 3 to 4: Serve half puppy food and half adult dog food. Days 8 to Serve only adult dog food. If your dog resists eating the adult food or experiences an upset stomach, extend the transition time as needed. Consult with your veterinarian for more help if needed. For more information and tips on puppy and dog nutrition from our experts , visit our Pet Expertise page. Related articles. Those are good as a rough guideline, but not entirely accurate. Active Goldens eat puppy food longer than the calmer ones. Because adult dog food is not as rich as the puppy version, he can only rely on the puppy food to meet his needs until his behavior changes to adult behaviors. Once your dog has almost reached maturity, his behaviors will automatically change. This change in behaviors is another sign your Golden puppy is ready to transition to adult food. Some of those signs are: Your puppy begins to sleep more and becomes less energetic. Your puppy starts losing interest in their puppy food. Your puppy often has stools after eating his puppy food. When your puppy is growing, he needs more calories and protein than an adult Golden to support his growth. That is why puppy food is designed to have more calories, calories, protein, and other nutrients beneficial for his development. But once he reaches maturity, his puppy food, although beneficial during the puppy stage, can do more harm than good. Because of the high-calorie content, if an adult Golden eats puppy food regularly, in the long term, it can cause him soft stools or diarrhea, and obesity. How to Transition Your Golden from Puppy Food to Adult Food After deciding it is the right time to switch your Golden puppy to adult dog food, the next thing to consider is how you will go about it. The best way to transition your puppy is to gradually mix in more adult food to your puppy food until he is ok with having only adult dog food in his bowl. For most dogs, the whole process usually takes about 7 to 14 days. After a few more days, continue to increase your adult dog food intake while reducing the amount of puppy food. At the end of days, if your dog can eat adult food without any problems, then you can eliminate the puppy food completely. One day they are smaller than your hand, and the next day they are too large to sit in your lap comfortably. But there comes a time which you should switch from treating them like babies to treating them like adults. This included switching their diets and the food they are eating. So, when and how to switch your golden retriever to adult dog food? This process seems simple enough, right? You can tell if they are ready or not for the transition by their weight. Using the following table: You can simply follow the chart guidelines and decide when you should start the transition based on this chart. You can also recognize the signs that they are ready for adult dog food when they start skipping meals, tasting different things around the house, or showing other signs that they are looking for more nutritious, solid food. Did you notice that the weight can slightly differ between males and females? What to look for in adult dog food for puppies? When you are buying adult dog food for your pooch, you need to look for a few things, first of all, you should always read the food label. Look for a product that comes with whole-food protein ingredients at the top of their list Foods where that the top ingredients are turkey, chicken, beef, or lamb are your best bets Avoid products that their ingredients begin with poultry, animal, and meat. You can also consult their vet before you start switching their food to avoid any issues in their stomach if you are worried it might happen. What is the best dog food for a golden retriever? Here are some quick recommendations for good foods for adult golden retrievers that I have tried and tested over the years with no issues. They are not perfect, but they are very good. Just a few months ago, your little ball of fluff was tumbling around, getting into mischief. This article will help you determine when to switch your puppy to adult dog food, how puppy and adult dog foods differ , how to select the best adult dog food, and how to transition foods smoothly to ensure that your pup is set up for a life of good health. According to AAFCO, puppy foods should be higher in protein, fat, calcium, and phosphorous than adult dog foods. These macronutrients and minerals help support lean muscle and bone growth. They also provide enough caloric density to enable the puppy to grow and perform basic bodily functions such as breathing, digestion, and movement. Many puppy food manufacturers also include higher amounts of compounds like omega-3 fatty acids to support proper brain and eye development as your puppy ages. Large-breed puppies need specially formulated puppy foods that contain less fat , calcium, and phosphorous to moderate their rate of growth. This helps prevent skeletal diseases such as elbow and hip dysplasia that can result from growing too quickly. You need to ensure that your puppy has the extra protein, fat, and minerals they need to support their growth and development and prevent various bone, joint, brain, and eye disorders. But aside from breed size, you also need to consider whether they are spayed or neutered or if they are a highly active dog that needs more calories. Breed Size Because of their faster growth rate, smaller breeds such as Chihuahuas , Yorkshire Terriers , and Pugs reach adult size sooner than larger breeds such as Golden Retrievers , German Shepherds, and Dalmatians. The guidelines below will help you to determine when to start feeding adult dog food: Small breeds under 25 pounds when fully grown reach adult size at months of age. These breeds will be ready for adult dog food at months of age. Medium-sized breeds such as English Springer Spaniels , Australian Shepherds , and Border Collies are pounds when fully grown, and they reach adult size at months of age. With growth rates between those of small breeds and large breeds, medium-sized dogs will be ready for adult dog food around months of age. Large breeds are over 50 pounds when fully grown. There are many large breed dogs, from the Boxer to the Great Dane , so the point at which these breeds reach mature size and weight can vary between 15 and 24 months of age. With the wide range of breeds under this category and a generally slower rate of growth, these dogs will need to stay on puppy food until they are months old to ensure they have enough protein and other nutrients during this stage. They also need to get those nutrients in the proper ratio to support the growth and proper development of their larger skeletons. Activity Level Athletic dogs may benefit from staying on puppy formulas longer, as the extra protein supports lean muscle growth and function, and the extra fat and higher caloric density can allow energy for high-intensity activities. Spaying or Neutering Breed size is not the only factor when determining when to transition your puppy to adult dog food. Because puppy foods contain a higher calorie density, feeding the correct amount during the remaining months of puppyhood is very important to prevent obesity as the puppy matures into an adult. Spaying or neutering does not usually slow the growth rate of your puppy, but it may affect the growth plates in the bones of large breed puppies, setting them up for joint problems later in life. In addition, unspayed female dogs who will be bred early in life may need to stay on puppy food longer to support gestation and lactation following whelping. Switching Too Early or Too Late Because the timing of switching your puppy to adult dog food is so important, there can be negative consequences from both switching too late and switching too early. Dogs that are taken off puppy food too late may be more predisposed to obesity and associated health problems later in life, given the fact that puppy formulas have more fat and calories per cup than adult dog formulas. The extra protein and calories in puppy foods can also increase the rate of growth in certain dog breeds if they are not fed a breed-specific puppy food formula. If these breeds are left on puppy formulas too long, they can be more predisposed to developing joint problems in the future. Similarly, if your puppy is taken off a puppy formula too early, they may suffer from nutritional deficiencies and growth abnormalities, failing to reach adult size around the expected time and increasing their risk of future bone, joint, brain, and eye issues. How to Pick the Right Adult Dog Food When it is time for your puppy to transition to adult dog food, how should you go about selecting the best adult formula for them as they become young adults? The young adult stage is typically considered years of age, as middle age starts by year in many dog breeds. While most dogs are generally quite healthy during this stage in their lives, feeding them appropriately during their young adult years can help lower the risk of obesity, arthritis , and dental disease as they age. Choosing a Brand The many adult dog food companies are not all equal in terms of quality. Dry Food vs. Wet Food The next step is to decide whether you would like to feed your dog dry food, wet food, or a mixture of the two. Both types of food have positive and negative aspects, and the choice to use one, the other, or both depends on the specific needs of your dog. For example, wet food: Has a higher moisture content than dry food and may be better for dogs that do not drink much water. Has a lower calorie density per volume than dry dog food, allowing dogs to feel fuller on fewer calories, which helps control their weight throughout their lives. Is often more palatable and appetizing than dry food, so it may be a great option for picky eaters or for stimulating the appetite of dogs that are less interested in food. Can be beneficial for dogs with oral abnormalities or dental disease, as it is easier for them to chew. By contrast, dry food: Can be a more economical option than wet food. Is a great option for easier portion control and for dogs that tend to graze throughout the day rather than consume a full meal in one sitting, as dry food will not spoil as rapidly if left out for long periods of time. Is beneficial for dental health, as the crunchy pieces act as an abrasive against the teeth during chewing and help prevent tartar buildup and thus tooth and gum disease. Can be easily used as a tool in puzzle toys for enrichment and mental stimulation. Is be used in slow feeders for reducing the rate at which dogs are able to consume their meals. When your pup eats more slowly, the risk is lower of them swallowing too much air and developing bloat, a potentially dangerous condition. Nutritional Requirements The final step in selecting the best adult dog food diet is to examine the Guaranteed Analysis panel on the bag or can of food and ensure that the formula meets a few major nutritional requirements. Other formulas have glucosamine for joint health or probiotics for gut health. Some dogs are sensitive to chicken and do better on beef- or salmon-based formulas. If you are unsure of the additional needs for your dog outside of the key ingredients and nutrients listed above, consult with your veterinarian. This will help ensure gut regularity with less physical activity. Remember that dog treats and other sources of calories in the diet need to be included when determining the appropriate amount of food for your young adult dog. How to Switch Your Puppy to Adult Dog Food Once you have selected the best adult dog food for your puppy, you are ready to transition them slowly onto their new diet. Because rapid diet changes can cause gastrointestinal upset in dogs, such as vomiting and diarrhea , it is recommended to introduce the new food slowly over a period of five days or so. Continue to feed your puppy as many times per day as they are used to throughout this process. If your puppy develops vomiting, diarrhea, or lack of appetite, stop feeding the adult dog food and see your veterinarian. How Often to Feed Your Dog For large-breed puppies, it may be best for them to continue to eat three times per day. For medium-breed puppies, they should continue to be fed twice daily when they have been transitioned to adult dog food. For small-breed puppies, you may consider transitioning them to eating twice daily instead of three times per day after they are fully on adult dog food. This may involve providing more attention and playtime for your dog as they become accustomed to fewer feedings per day. Consider extra walks, extra playtime, or brushing to distract them from feelings of hunger. Some dogs may benefit from high-fiber adult dog food to increase feelings of fullness between meals. Your dog may also enjoy cleaned, raw fruits and vegetables such as sliced carrots, cucumbers, or apples without the core or seeds. If you have any questions about transitioning your puppy to adult dog food, contact your veterinarian. In addition, a board-certified veterinary nutritionist can be a great resource for any issues that come up, and they can help develop the best diet and feeding schedule for your new family member. Featured image: iStock. Help us make PetMD better Was this article helpful? Check Price Why do we need to switch from puppy food to dog food golden retrievers? They will need more high source of nutritional needs so they can stay healthy and preserve they well-being. But the first few weeks of the transition period are not that easy. Your golden retriever might experience tummy issues. You got to make an extra effort to identify the right food for your puppy during his period of becoming an adult dog. That said, you need to regularly consult with your vet and strategize about the week of the transition period so your dog will become safe with no gastrointestinal tract issues. At first, it may be hard to tell which can be mistaken for health issues or others. But these tell-tale signs are most likely that your puppy is no longer a pup but a developing adult reaching its maturity. Although we, dog owners, hard to accept that they are becoming adult golden retrievers, we still need to prepare for those inevitable events. What we need is to support them and we need to identify these signs. While those new teeth are coming in, you will need some chewing sticks or chew toys for your growing Golden puppy. This is also the time where you need to consider switching from puppy food to dog food which can be done slowly and through a discussion from your vet. Meaning that your puppy is becoming more responsible and matured. They are comparable to any highly active dogs because of their endless energy which makes them want to play all day long. But over time when your puppy is beginning to become less playful, this may be a sign that he is leaning towards adulthood. They may want to play with you every five minutes. He eats slower and eats less Puppies are known for their being voracious eaters. But when they hit their adulthood or while in their transition period to their full-grown dog, they will eat less and you will also notice how slower they eat than they are before. The puppy begins to physically mature Upon reaching 9 months of age, your golden retriever puppy is along its way to becoming mature. There are different kinds of maturity when it comes to dogs and they are largely affected through their gender. For the female dogs, they may have changes in appetite, may appear anxious than normal, and will experience a vaginal discharge of blood. You may not see it happening in an instant, but by the time and as weeks go by, you will realize that your puppy becomes a dog. Usually, the signs are, they listen attentively and responds to you and the other dogs from social cues, they can read if you are angry or happy to them, and they can easily settle down. So watch out for these signs. When he stops growing When your golden retriever has fully grown both physically and emotionally, this is definitely the obvious sign that your dog turned into a full-grown adult dog. This happens when your dog is already 1 to 3 years of age. This is the time where your dog will be needing an adequate source of protein-based nutritional needs such as whole meat mainly with first meat as their main ingredients when buying an adult dog food. Also, you may want to match their type of activity to the dog food you are considering. A general guide for feeding the golden puppy and adult Puppies who are in their first months will develop a built-in timer. This prompts him to eat based on schedule because they are a creature of habit. You should give your golden puppy at least three times a day of meals for the first three months. Prior to that, by the time he reaches four months, feed him at least twice a day permanently. Puppies ages 12 months more or less The above mentioned is the general rule. Yet, there are different cases of how puppies grow depending on their breed size. For golden retrievers, they belong to a medium-sized breed. Their age of maturity will hit by the time they are 9 months of age. While large breeds will hit their maturity when they are 18 to 24 months of age. Transitioning from puppy food to dog food golden retriever After you are completely aware and decided to shift your dog from puppy food to dog food. But be very careful to suddenly give your dog food. The key is to slowly introduce your puppy from puppy food to dog food. Let your golden retriever taste the dog food slowly so that he can get accustomed to the taste of the dog food. Normally this transition process will take about 7 to 14 days. That said, you can start the transition period by giving 75 percent of puppy food and a 25 percent adult food formula for at least 2 to 3 days. After the succeeding days, you can try increasing the adult dog food ratio to 10 percent until it becomes percent adult dog food. As a result, within 10 to 14 days, your golden retriever will somehow liken the adult dog food. If not, you can just go slower with the kibble food ratio until your dog is fully satisfied with the taste. This is among the important process during their transition period. One of the best and appropriate dog food for your golden retriever is this particular Royal Canin. Because it's breed-specific. That said, its nutritional value is specifically curated for a specific type of breed. This is to ensure that what you are getting meets the standard diet of your Golden. There's more than that, this particular dog food has a heart-healthy recipe. And because golden retrievers are vulnerable to heart problems, this will help them prevent any heart disease. Added the fact that it's also made to reinforce the skin of the dog. One of the main ingredients includes Brewers rice, brown rice, chicken by-product, oat greats. It's also packed with adequate vitamins like taurine and DHA for strong vision and helps cognitive ability. All the more, each kibble has a different design and even shape and size which is suited for the dog's jaw structure and biting patterns. This is well suited for a golden retriever because of specific nutrients and dietary needs added. Also, it supports some of the most health problems that the golden retriever commonly faces. So, this is actually worth buying for. Pros Specifically designed for golden retrievers Unique shape and sizes Grain-free. The general rule is to switch your Golden Retriever puppy to adult food once they reach physical maturity. For Golden Retrievers this is between the age of 12 to 18 months. Puppies have different nutritional needs than adults and need to stay on puppy food until they stop growing. Switching too early can have a negative effect on the growth and development of your pup. Golden Retrievers are considered a large breed and reach their physical maturity much later than small breeds do. All dogs differ as to when they reach maturity, which is why there is no one size fits all answer to this question. Can switch to adult food at 9 to 12 months. Medium Breeds: 20 to 50Lbs. Can switch to adult food at 12 to 14 months. Large and Giant Breeds: Weigh more than 50Lbs. Can switch to adult food at 12 to 24 months. He will continue to fill out until the age of 2 when he reaches his adult weight. Keeping your Golden Retriever pup on puppy food until the age of 12 to 18 months is a good guideline to follow. But, there are other ways to tell if your Golden is ready to make the transition. Here are some other signs that will let you know your pup is ready for adult food: Skipping Meals or Leftover Food Puppy food is designed specifically for growing puppies. It is higher in fat, calories, protein and nutrients to help support growth and development. Once your puppy reaches adulthood, he no longer needs as many calories. You may notice that your puppy is skipping meals or leaving food in his food bowl because he is still full. This is a good indication that your puppy is ready to make the switch. Puppies typically eat 3 meals a day, when you make the switch to adult food, you can also reduce the number of meals per day down to 2. Decreased Activity Level We all know that puppies have a ton of energy, and Golden Retriever puppies seem to have even more! But, with age comes a decrease in activity level. Once your puppy starts to mature, you will notice they also start to calm down. Weight Gain Once your Golden Retriever puppy is fully grown, they no longer need high-calorie food. If you continue feeding puppy food to your adult Golden Retriever, you may notice excessive weight gain. Weight gain is a clear indication that your Golden Retriever is past the puberty stage and is ready to switch to adult food. The transition to adult food is important, as puppy food can quickly pack on the pounds. Weight gain is usually seen in Golden Retrievers who are spayed or neutered because owners continue feeding them the same amount of food as before. The age of spay or neuter lines up to around the time your Golden Retriever should transition to adult food, which is when they are finished growing. Puppies require a higher amount of calories, protein, nutrients and fats in order to fuel their growth. While puppies need the proper food to grow and develop, adult Golden Retrievers require food to maintain their bodies. Puppy food is: Smaller in size, making it safer to chew and swallow. Softer in texture, catering to the softer and smaller teeth of a puppy. Contains nutrients and fats essential for bone growth, muscle development, and energy. Carefully balanced for growing puppies. Feeding properly balanced puppy food is important, and large breeds like Golden Retrievers benefit from specially formulated large-breed puppy food. Most vets and nutritionists consider a pup a large breed if they weigh between 55 to Lbs when fully grown. Large breed puppy food is lower in fat and calories than regular puppy food, and it has a carefully balanced ratio of calcium to phosphorus. This allows for slow and steady growth, supporting joints and bones. For more information on large breed puppy food, check out this article from PetMD. Different quantities and ratios of nutrients are ideal for different life stages. Keeping your adult Golden Retriever on puppy food can lead to obesity and other health issues such as faster growth, which can lead to hip and elbow dysplasia. Puppy food is too rich and dense in nutrients which not only causes significant weight gain in adults but could result in stomach upset and diarrhea. It could also lead to an overdose of vitamins and minerals. Adult dog food contains nutrients that are suited for dogs who are passed their growth stage. Adult Golden Retrievers need food that helps them maintain their optimal health and weight. The switch to adult food needs to be gradual, over a period of 7 to 10 days. This will prevent any stomach upset in your pup. Basically, the best way to transition your puppy to adult food is to buy a bag of adult food when you purchase the last bag of puppy food. Gradually mix the two foods together, increasing the amount of new food over a period of 7 to 10 days. By day 9 or 10 your Golden Retriever should be eating his new adult food. If at any time during the transition period your Golden Retriever experiences an upset stomach or diarrhea, or simply resists the adult food, you can extend the transition time as needed. Final Thoughts So, as you can see there is a right time and a wrong time when you should switch your Golden Retriever puppy to adult food. Golden Retrievers grow and mature at a slower pace than smaller breeds do, and require the essential nutrients found in puppy food for much longer. It is recommended to keep your Golden Retriever puppy on puppy food until the age of 12 to 18 months. You want to gradually introduce the new food in order to avoid any stomach upset. Is your Golden Retriever puppy ready for adult food? At what age did your Golden Retriever start eating adult food? Share your thoughts and comments below. I would love to hear from you! Jenny I am the proud owner of a Golden Retriever named Ellie. She keeps me busy, and when she is resting, you can find me working on my blog. She is always close by though. I live in Stirling, ON Canada with my husband, and we both enjoy the never a dull moment life with our Ellie. Spread the love. Read the full disclosure here. Being a large and energetic dog, your golden retriever has a ravenous appetite and can eat a lot. However, overfeeding is never good and could be avoided with the help of a golden retriever feeding chart. Knowing how much to feed your golden retriever is always tricky but essential for their well-being and health. Goldens are prone to obesity and joint problems, which can only be exacerbated with an inadequate feeding plan. So, stay with me to find the right feeding plan and meal schedule for your goldie. Most first-time owners think their puppies should be chubby. In truth, golden retriever puppies are supposed to look lanky and act like they are always hungry when fed the correct amount of food. To encourage proper growth and development without making your pup obese, you will have to know how much to feed a golden retriever puppy. For example, cheaper foods use fillers and have a smaller amount of calories, thus you will have to feed more than you would when using premium large breed puppy foods.