golden retriever puppies destin fl

golden retriever puppies destin fl - All dogs are unique and grow at their own rate. Pro Tip: Check out our complete guide to puppy care to ensure your Lab gets off to a great start. As a medium to large breed, Labrador Retrievers need at least one year to reach their full size. A general rule of thumb suggests your Lab should be at or close to its full size by their first birthday. However, bigger-boned Lab puppies can keep growing and filling out their chest up to 18 months old. How big should a 6-month-old Labrador Retriever be? The average Lab weight at six months old is about 40 to 55 pounds for males or 30 to 35 pounds for females. Please keep in mind that these numbers are averages, and every puppy will grow at a slightly different rate. How much bigger will my Labrador Retriever get? There are three ways to predict the size of a Labrador Retriever at maturity: Age. Labrador Retrievers typically reach their full height and weight around their first birthday. Larger Labs may need up to 18 months to fill out their chest, but any weight gain after 12 months should be minimal overall. If your Lab is less than a year old, they are likely still growing and putting on muscle to reach their adult size. Paw Size. If their paws look oversized next to their legs and body, then they are probably still growing, as this is a classic puppy feature. Lastly, if you purchased your Lab through a breeder, you can contact them for a more exact height and weight estimate. What is the size of a full-grown Labrador Retriever? A full-grown Labrador Retriever weighs between 65 and 80 pounds and stands about .The average weight of a full-grown female Labrador Retriever should be about 55 to 70 pounds, standing at .Make sure to consult with your veterinarian to ensure that your Lab is maintaining a healthy weight for its body size. The Labrador Retriever growth rate should be indicative of its athletic body and muscular build. Did you know. ? Their webbed paws made them strong swimmers, along with their otter tail, which acts like a powerful rudder when retrieving ducks. English nobles spotted the dogs and brought them home across the Atlantic, where breeders continued to refine the breed into its own variation. Between their friendly demeanor, adaptability, and outgoing disposition, they make ideal family members. As cherished members of our families, Labs deserve the best care. Unfortunately, like many other purebred dogs, Labrador Retrievers are more susceptible to various health issues. Some of the most common examples include:. I am looking for advice about our chocolate lab, Hunter, who is about to be 6 months old. We are kind of at a loss! We had a yellow lab for 14 years prior to this and he had his share of antics but they were occasional things. I feel like our current problems are unmanageable. Something has to give. My kids 14, 12, 8 are getting tired of it, even my husband has mentioned how long we can keep up with this. I have had my fair share of days when I am in tears trying to love a dog that seems hell-bent on destroying everything we own. Let me start with the positives.He is crate-trained and mostly-we have some barking problems when he can hear people in the house does great with it. He walks on a leash pretty well without major distractions. He has a decent command of sit, stay when we are playing with a treat , lay down, shake, come again, without distraction and wait for his food, or a treat. There is also a lot of time especially, now in the summer when he is outside in the yard with us or the kids. We live on land but he is starting to wander outside of the "yard" area that he is supposed to stay in which makes it harder to let him roam free. We have an underground fence arriving this week that will hopefully fix that problem. However, the majority of the time when he is out inside the house he is behaving terribly. It started like normal puppy antics when we got him at 8. He chews on my furniture there is no corner on my coffee table or paint on the legs of the end tables. He steals everything in sight-books, paper, pens, socks, shoes, laundry, etc. We keep all bedroom doors and bathroom doors shut to decrease our problems but between the kitchen, living room, mud room and laundry room he finds more than enough trouble. He jumps on counters, the table, and will take whatever he can reach off of them. His powerful jaws can chew an awful lot in a hurry, but he has no interest in giving it back. We've tried firm drop commands but he doesn't care. We tried offering treats to trade for the item and that worked for about a week. Now he'd rather not trade. I know it sounds like this is an unsupervised dog problem-but it's not!! He is not left alone-someone is on "Hunter Duty" anytime he is out of the crate. But we can be in a middle of a game with his toy and he iwll just start eating things. He also jumps on the furniture and refuses to get off, treat or no. We have to physically pick him up and put him on the floor. Most of the time this just leads to him running from one couch to the next Part of the problem is that he doesn't seem to be able to take a break and just relax in the house. I can count without using up my fingers how many times he has actually laid down in the house and chilled out, aside from being put in the crate. We have bought him 2 beds for the living room, hoping that it would give him a place to be calm. He ate them. Again, while being supervised. But a few bites here and there before we can get him to stop and pretty soon all of the stuffing is coming out. I have recently tried to leave his leash attached while in the house to make him easier to grab but he has almost chewed through it. We were having a lot of biting of us and our clothes, but that has greatly reduced thank. I will gladly take any suggestions! Click to expand.I don't really have any advice as such because I'm in the exact same position. Nelly is 6 months and I think it's similar to the terrible twos in children!!! Nelly does everything you say Hunter does! I always think I just can't cope anymore but then every evening she cuddles up to me and kisses me and it's all worth it in the end! Good luck- you're not alone. Most dogs show some maturity at six-months of age and all the work you have done up to this point assuming you have done the work in the previous posts should start coming together. Here is the training you can work on with your 6-month-old Lab puppy. About this series This is the final post of a step-by-step training and socialization program for Labrador puppies. If you read our first post , you know that this series follows our training of Bubba, a female chocolate lab puppy. Bubba is already sold as one of our Custom Trained Retrievers, so it is our responsibility to raise and train her until she has progressed to the level of training the owner has requested. In this case, Bubba will be with us for almost a year and a half. Bubba at 6 months Bubba has changed so much from the seven-week-old puppy we brought home to the gangly 6-month-old she has become. She is still Bubba — full of energy and mischief and always ready to go. But she has matured in many ways too. The products I recommend I believe are a good value or good investment for anyone working to train or maintain training on their retriever. When possible, I include links to the product. Some of these links may be Amazon or other affiliate links in which I am paid a small commission at no cost to you. All opinions and recommendations are my own. For instance, now, when I take her out of the dog trailer to train, she knows the process and embraces it. She understands that if she wants to do the fun stuff — the retrieving — she must do her obedience training. Bubba willingly sits still while I put on her electronic collar and chain collar. During the obedience work, she pays attention to the commands and complies quickly most of the time. She is still a 6-month-old puppy, so she makes quite a few mistakes and gets a little too excited at times, but she is progressing well. Maintaining this obedience will be key from now on. Obedience training your 6-month-old puppy Bubba is now old enough to go through electronic collar conditioning. She has been wearing an electronic collar for a few weeks already. The collar has never been turned on, but it has been something we require Bubba to wear each and every time we let her outside. This process, having your dog wear an electronic collar for a period with NO corrections, is called collar conditioning. Collar conditioning your Lab puppy Collar conditioning is necessary so that when we are ready to use the electronic collar for corrections, Bubba is none the wiser and has no idea that the collar she has been wearing for weeks is the source of the correction. It also helps so that down the line, Bubba will not become collar wise. Collar wise dogs are obedient only when the electronic collar is on and are disobedient when it is off. This is something we want to avoid if possible. Using the electronic collar to enforce obedience The second step in collar conditioning is using the electronic collar to enforce obedience commands that Bubba already knows. For instance, Bubba knows the command SIT. Previously, if Bubba did not obey when I said SIT, I would tap her bottom with the heeling stick or push down on her bottom. Now, I will do the same obedience drill, but I will use the electronic collar as the correction. Be very careful. There is a right way to introduce the electronic collar corrections, so be sure and read my post on introducing the electronic collar. Prior to using the e-collar the first time. Making the e-collar a positive experience Some dogs get very excited when the owner grabs the leash because they know that they are going for a walk. This is the same reaction we are looking for when putting an electronic collar on a dog. The dog should not act differently when the e-collar is on. If your dog cowers or fights you when you want to put the e-collar on, then you have introduced the collar incorrectly and your dog now thinks that the e-collar is a bad thing. This means that your dog is collar wise and will act completely different when the e-collar is on. This is a huge problem because it is very likely your dog will be obedient when the collar is on and disobedient when the collar is off. That is not what we want to achieve. We want your dog to be obedient with or without the e-collar on. Training and socializing a six-month-old Labrador puppy Most dogs that we train for hunting or competition enter our program at around the age of months. Bubba is coming right up to that point now. So, I will be switching from the puppy training program in the next few weeks, and she will officially start our Sportsman training program. Since she will also be going through our advanced program, some of the drills for the advanced work will be mixed into the training to move her along with the most efficiency. Here are the things I have been working on with Bubba this month. Many of these training concepts and drills will continue, but on a more interim basis since we have many more concepts to cover within the hunting and advanced programs. Self-control and restraint It is vital for all dogs to learn self-control and restraint. No dog should be allowed to just react on a whim and be excused for their action simply because they are a dog. Having a dog is a responsibility. A reactive dog with no training can hurt someone, and you, as the owner, will be liable for that injury. I am constantly amazed at how little expectation most people have for their dogs. Many people constantly make up excuses for why their dog is so disobedient or being a terror. The expectation is just so low, that many owners are willing to put up with anything. The truth is that working dogs can be taught self-control and restraint and you should constantly be working on this trait. In past posts I have given many examples on how you can do this, and quite honestly there are no limitations here. Many of our clients talk about having problems with their dog accosting anyone who comes through the door. Teaching your dog to kennel when the doorbell rings or when someone knocks on the door can quickly eliminate this problem. Yes, it will take some work and a LOT of repetition, but it will be worth in in the end. At five-months-old, Bubba was heeling on lead, but her attitude was not great, and she struggled with self-control. Now, Bubba heels so nice, it is relaxing to walk with her. She stays in the correct position and pays good attention to my legs so that she is ready when I turn or stop. We will continue to work on HEEL and will be adding off-lead obedience in the future, but her progress is right on schedule, and I am very happy with how well she is doing now. Learn more about How to obedience train a Labrador puppy. If you have been following this series, you know that Bubba struggled with a remote SIT for a long time. I knew it was a maturity issue for her, but I was unprepared for how quickly the maturity for this arrived. Bubba will now remote SIT with amazing steadiness. She will remain sitting when I tug on her lead, when I jump up and down and when I squat in front of her. Bubba may look away, especially when I squat right in front of her, but that is okay, she is looking away so that she can remain steady in her SIT. It is very fun to watch her progress on these drills. Her progress tells me she is smart and tractable. She wants to please and do what we ask her to do. This is a great characteristic for a working dog. Through lots and lots of exposure to this drill, dogs quickly learn that when I say HEEL and put my left hand out from my side slightly and they should come into that position. Of course, I knew that once I was able to start working with electronic collar, I would make progress. There is nothing that solidifies the HERE command like an electronic collar. It gives you the ability to reach out and touch your dog no matter where they are, and the ability to enforce the command immediately after your dog has refused is what makes all the difference. All dogs learn faster when the correction is closely timed to the refusal. Bubba is no exception. She now quickly complies with the HERE command except for a few testing moments. All dogs will test, they are not robots, the trick is to be ready for the test and respond with a quick correction. If you are not consistent with this, and your dog gets away with a refusal, then you are now on a slippery slope. If you do, you will quickly have made your dog collar-wise. Then you have even more problems. Expect your dog to test your authority and be ready to give a correction at the precise time. This is the most humane way to teach your dog to be obedient. She runs out like gangbusters, picks up the bumper or bird and runs back with the same enthusiasm. She will then flip herself around and wait for the next throw. Her enthusiasm is contagious and so much fun. I must take care though, not to overdo it. Too many retrieves is the fastest way to destroy desire, I want to stop while she still wants more. Our policy is to limit dogs to retrieves in one session. Especially for puppies of her age. Steady and Lab puppies At six-months-old we will not steady Bubba yet. One of the biggest mistakes people make is trying to steady their dog too early. For those not familiar with the term steady, this means to make your dog SIT and wait to be sent for the mark or throw. So we will leave steady work until she is a bit older. These are simple, single marks with a bumper that is easy to see white or a bird. More complexity such as deeper cover, longer marks and more complex marks with be added once Bubba is through force fetch. Because Bubba with be an Advanced Waterfowl dog, we also will start teaching her simple doubles and basic casting work this month. This is not something I would recommend for most dogs but because we have the experience and a very proven training plan, we like to begin introductions to this early on. What is next for Bubba? Bubba will begin our step-by-step training program for hunting dogs starting in her seventh month. This means she will continue obedience and start learning HOLD, force fetch, collar fetch and walk fetch. These steps are vital for the rest of the training. The training will take her through the next month and then she will be ready for the real learning such as hunting scenarios, blind work, and having live birds shot over her all while working through the very detailed advanced training. Final thoughts on training for your 6-month-old Labrador puppy Bubba has been a good example of the training we do here at Otter Tail Kennels for dogs purchased though our Custom Trained Retrievers. Each dog is different, and yet there are some very similar challenges with each one. It is always fun to watch these pups go from little fur balls to intense working dogs over a matter of months. I hope you have enjoyed following Bubba through this journey. I will continue to post progress photos on our Instagram and Facebook pages. If you are struggling or need additional help with your new puppy, you can email me ottertailkennels gmail. I would be happy to discuss your goals for your retriever and tell you about the programs I offer. Until next time, happy retrieving. Training your 6-month-old Labrador puppy. You should take your puppy outdoors and let him exercise his socialization potential at a young age. Visiting friends and family is one way to go about it. You can also spot a dog park and carry him there. Remember that your pet is still learning to follow directions and walk with you. You cannot expect him to cover long distances. The best way to avoid this is to take them far enough from the house and ensure they have a positive outside experience. It is worth noting that you should do this as often as you can, preferably daily. Start Potty Training It would be best to start potty training your Lab puppy the first day you bring him home. Start by showing your pup where you want him to potty, such as a sectioned-off area of your yard or garden. A good idea is to cordon off a small area and add some bark chippings. Next, you need a potty training schedule such as first thing in the morning, after mealtimes and play, and hourly for young pups. Many owners use dog crates to help with house training. I have a step-by-step guide on Labrador puppy crate training where you can learn tons more. Discourage Biting If you follow my blog, you know I am against punishment-oriented training. If you train your dog young enough to avoid harsh bites, you will not need punishment-driven discipline strategies. In any case, using physical force or yelling at your pup will only instill fear and distrust and can cause aggression in your dog. You can also check out my article, How to Discipline a Labrador , for greater insight into this topic. Instead, you can wait until your Labrador bites during a positive activity and then discontinue it. It will anchor the consequence better. Follow up using positive reinforcement by rewarding the correct behavior with a treat. Your Labrador will quickly learn that displaying good behavior reaps nice things. Puppies need to learn their bite inhibition soft-mouth by continuing the excellent work their mother and siblings taught them. Learn Bite Inhibition Training! Instill Patience You must use your best judgment when training your dog to be patient. Generally speaking, your Labrador will be mature enough to learn self-control by the tenth week. You can use a clicker or a whistle to teach your puppy to assume the natural heel position. Chances are, at first, your Labrador will try to change his pace to be behind you because of the force of habit. Walking in areas familiar to your dog will eliminate this problem. While you previously trained him to assume a heel position, you can also teach him these techniques. You may notice that your puppy can tell your words apart by the thirteenth week. So by the time he is four months old, you can use the position cues and positive reinforcement to get your dog to follow. These included whistling, clapping, or saying a specific word to indicate that your Labrador is doing a good job, typically followed by a well-deserved treat. Now is the time to see whether the anchors work! Where you previously whistled when your Lab ran towards you, now you must whistle, so he begins his run. This is the start of his Labrador recall training. Teaching good recall is an ongoing process. My dog was around 12 months old before seeing a noticeable improvement in her recall. Please avoid forcing the dog, as that only introduces confusion. Build Comfort With Crowds — Work on Socialization You have trained your Labrador to acknowledge close friends and family in the past few weeks. While this enables the puppy to be more social when you have visitors, a grown dog must learn to walk outdoors without acting out. This transition must be gradual, and try to keep experiences positive. Whether it is a cuddle, a pat, attention, or something tasty, you must teach your pup target training , for example, to touch a target with a specific part of his body. Remember that your Lab may end up biting or clawing to communicate if you do not teach him more acceptable communication methods. Here, I recommend teaching your Labrador to touch your hand with his nose. Ultimately, this is an excellent replacement for bites! Hand targeting is fun to teach, helps your pup build trust, and gets him using his brain! You have laid a strong foundation of discipline and positive reinforcement, making it easier to train your dog to follow more complex commands. In these weeks, you will introduce him to assuming different positions, obeying your commands as he moves away from you, and reacting to more nuanced anchors. Remember, 4-month-old Labrador puppies have a short attention span, so avoid long training sessions. Teach the Sit and Stay Teaching your Lab to sit and stay is a useful command for him to learn. Train Your Dog to Fetch If you have taken your Labrador to public parks and he has seen other dogs play fetch, it will be easier to teach him to retrieve whatever you throw. Your Labrador may not bring the toy back to you for a second round, but he will soon get the idea of retrieving it. You can gradually turn it into a game of fetch over the next few weeks and reward your doggo with high-value training treats. Continue Potty Training In the fourth month of Labrador training, you will continue potty training with a degree of independence. Continue with a good schedule and sync your walks with his natural cycle to align with the times he needs to go. You can use it to control your Labrador and later to test his ability to execute a command off-leash. A harness is also a good idea and is used for outdoor training and walks. Many owners will opt for a rear-attaching harness. Related: Harness vs. Collar for Lab Puppy: Which is Best? How to Train a 5-Month-Old Lab Puppy A five-month-old Labrador puppy is ready to be tested for his general obedience and the ability to deal with distractions, whether other dogs, people, or other animals such as squirrels or birds. Earlier, I mentioned that you could not expect an eight-week-old puppy to delay gratification. Your puppy can deal with distractions at five months old if you introduce them slowly. You must be prepared for your dog to run ahead of you now! However, suppose you have developed a solid relationship with your pup and worked on his training. In that case, he will stay within a reasonable distance, remaining by your side and showing loyalty. Once your Lab puppy has reached his 6-month milestone, it also marks the point where you introduce him to advanced obedience training. The good news is that all the training you have previously given will make it easier for your dog to follow your lead. Conclude Potty Training Your dog has had months to learn how to communicate his need to go potty. He has also likely refined the patience to hold it instead of relieving himself on the floor. Therefore, you can communicate your disappointment with your body language if your dog makes a mess. Avoid physical punishment and even verbal chastising as it impacts your dog negatively. All dogs can still have the odd accident up to 12 months old. Moreover, you must be prepared for your dog to relieve himself indoors if he is excited or frightened, known as either excitement or submissive urination. Increase Exercise Now that your Lab puppy is six months old, you can increase his exercise to thirty minutes twice daily. Energy levels, especially for larger breed dogs, escalate during this time. While the average exercise for a pup before this is generally five minutes of exercise per month of age, twice a day, a six-month-old Labrador can be out for one hour if you split his walks into thirty minutes a day. To train your 6-month-old Lab puppy, start with two commands with the most practical use. From six months onwards, until your Labrador is a well-trained adult, you can teach the following commands or tricks in any order. How to Train a 7-Month-Old Labrador As your Lab progresses to seven months old, a lot of the previous training needs to be kept consistent as you gradually teach him to comprehend more commands. Maybe there is a trespasser, and you want your dog to scare them away. You will need to continue training your dog to hold things or release them on command, but you can also proceed to add distance and even more background distractions. Ironically, you need to teach him to bark on command before learning to be silent on cue. Over this month, he will learn to associate the respective commands with barking and silence. This is quite tricky, but your Lab will eventually get there if you practice and stay consistent. The eighth month is ideal for training your Lab to go to different places upon hearing the command word. Either way, do not overload him with place commands, and stick to no more than two per month. Or you can use the ninth month to teach a cool party trick! After a week, you can remove the treat and teach your Lab to follow your finger. Of course, you will still need to reward him after he follows the command. By the third week, you can cue your doggo to spin and see if he does so without your finger guiding him in a circular motion. It might take an extra week or two, but I recommend this as an addition in the ninth month because it allows you to continue training your pet to learn previous commands better. You can teach him to go to different places, hold or release objects, and fetch toys. You can now progress this further and teach him to roll over on command. Your 1-year-old Labrador only learns to comprehend more at the same pace as he has since the 6-month mark. You should also audit previously taught commands and see any weak associations you can reinforce. How to Train an Month-Old Labrador You will not have to alter your training regimen dramatically if you have trained your Labrador properly from eight weeks onward. If anything, this is the period where you customize his training to your convenience. Now is when your dog must learn to be compatible with your life. From the month mark onwards, you must train your dog to be harmonious with modern adult life within reason. It is sad to see dog owners having to give away their pets because of behavior issues. Such things are avoidable if you train your dog correctly and sufficiently exercise him. It would be best if you simply established authority by having a positive yet commanding presence. Once your dog acknowledges your authority and sees you as a guide, you can merely treat him as a six-month-old, albeit on an accelerated schedule, and train him accordingly. Your job becomes even easier once you have a workable training schedule and stick to your routine. This month-by-month Labrador puppy training schedule will help you successfully train your doggo and turn him into the beloved companion you always desired. Good luck with your training! Related Posts You May Like:. What commands should my six month puppy know? And much more! Average 6 month old Lab size? It seems amazing that the little fluff ball you bought home just four months ago should be so big. And bouncy! But I know you want an answer, so as a very rough guide, many 6 month old lab puppies will weigh around 50lbs. The remainder of his growth, another lbs or so will take place more slowly over the next 6 months. What should my black, yellow, or chocolate Labrador weigh at six months? People often ask if there is any difference between the different colors with regard to weight and size. The answer is kind of. Working type American or field bred Labradors are often lighter at six months than show type English or bench bred Labradors. And in the UK at least, most field bred Labradors are either black the majority or yellow including fox red. Most not all, but most chocolate Labs in the UK are show or pet bred Labradors and tend to be more heavily built. There is a softness to his features that will last another couple of months or so. How much food does a 6 month old Lab need? How much food your puppy needs will depend on how much he weighs and what condition he is in. Have a look at our puppy feeding chart and also at the instructions on the packet of food that you are using. If your puppy is a little on the skinny side give him a tiny bit more food than recommended and if he is looking a bit plump, a little bit less. Consistent overfeeding will make a puppy fat. Consistent underfeeding will see him lose weight. How often should I feed my six month old puppy? Your 6 month old Lab can drop down from three meals a day to two without any problems. This means that you will be giving the same amount of food as before, but in two larger meals instead of three smaller ones. So, if your pup gets diarrhoea when you switch to twice daily feed, skip a meal to let his tummy settle, then go back to three meals a day for a few days. When you next try going down to two meals a day, give him two small meals to begin with and increase the meal size gradually over the next few days How far should my six month old be walked every day? If you are not familiar with it, the five minute rule says that a puppy needs five minutes of exercise per day for each month of his life. Like many young Labs, adorable six month old Myles loves everyone: by Ericka from the USA Most experts would divide that into two sessions. This refers to formal walks, not playing in the garden or messing about with other dogs. And the reason for that caution is that your puppy is still growing and the growth plates in his joints are still vulnerable to damage. So my advice would be to avoid hard exercise until your puppy is well past his first birthday and then to build up gradually over a period of several weeks. Sexual maturity in Labradors Puppies become sexually mature before they are physically mature and long before they are mentally adults. Some six month old puppies are capable of breeding. And definitely should not be allowed to do so. Apart from the ethical and moral implications, it may be physically harmful to breed from such a young female. Many female Labradors will have their first season sometime between six months and a year, so this is something you need to be looking out for. Neutering Some of you will have already had your 6 month pup neutered, others will be thinking about doing so in the next few months. If you decide against neutering, this is a good point in time to review the security on your property and make sure it is thoroughly dog proof. Labradors are surprisingly agile and can often jump higher, and dig deeper, than you imagine. Beautiful Poppy at just seven months old: by Karen R from Germany Once sexually mature, many a Labrador, particularly but not only males, will make more effort to explore beyond the boundaries of your property. And if you have a female in season, other enterprising males will do their best to find a way in! Whatever your intentions, the time for breeding is a long way off right now. Bear in mind your dog is nowhere near grown up. In many ways he is still a baby. Has my 6 month old Lab finished teething? Most puppies have shed the last of their baby teeth by six months of age. And will have cut many of their adult teeth by this point too. Most will have all their adult teeth within the next month or so. This is the point at which most young dogs start to lose their fear of losing you. This has some big implications for those that exercise their young dogs off leash in open country, where there are temptations such as wild birds and animals to chase. Which brings us to the next question. As a trainer of working retrievers I can tell you that I have had six month old Labradors that were quite advanced with their training and others that had barely started. All reached the same standard eventually. However, it is important to get started with training now. And while there is no set standard your puppy should have reached, it is definitely time to get some safety cues installed. What commands should my six month old puppy know? Most six month old pups have only quite basic obedience and are not yet reliably obedient when there are lots of distractions about. While many six month olds will sit when asked, and come when called in the house and yard. And a lot the majority of six month old Labradors are still pulling on the lead. Professional or serious hobby trainers aside, this is fairly normal. Most importantly, you need to focus on proofing these cues against distraction. Come The come cue, or recall, is important so that your dog can be allowed safely off leash and recalled if any hazards appear. You can find information on teaching recall here: How to teach a basic recall Even if you have made quite good progress with recall, now is quite a good point at which to be thinking about the about turn walk this is a technique to prevent your dog from getting too far away from you on walks. This is especially important as he grows bigger. Labradors are strong and often friendly dogs. This makes pulling on the lead very common as your puppy does his best to engage every passing stranger in a game. Gorgeous Charlie enjoying a run at six months of age — he also appears in our feature at the top of the page: by Julie T from Cornwall UK I have seen grown ups pulled clean off their feet by large dogs on leash. Being pulled off your feet, or losing control of your dog at the roadside is a very real risk. Many young Labradors are very friendly and while this is a great thing overall, it can cause some problems with training at this age. I mentioned proofing earlier, and proofing is the process which teaches our dogs to come away from other dogs or people. And proofing is the way to succeed. The main problem with proofing is that it takes time and help. You might also find proofing Labrador obedience helpful. What is the best way to train my 6 month old? Training methods are changing. We are in something of a new era with regard to dog training methods and there are now plenty of good trainers who can show you how to train your dog effectively without fear or pain. Behavior problems Most six month old pups are through the housetraining phase, though there may be very occasional accidents if a your dog is left alone for a lot longer than usual. Female dogs may have an occasional accident during their first season too, but these are usually isolated incidents. What about chewing? If you are expecting chewing to stop at the same time as teething coming to an end, you may be disappointed. We look at destructive chewing in more detail in this article , but it can be at its worst between 6 and 9 months of age. Which brings us to a common question Can I de-crate my six month old Lab? It seems mean to shut him away at bedtime. Why not give him the freedom of the kitchen during the night? Well, this can work. But often it does not and results either in a bad chewing problem or occasionally, in a relapse in house training. You can find out more in this article which includes detailed de-crating instructions. The other big issue for many puppy parents with six month olds, is excitable behavior. Particularly jumping up, and sometimes nipping How do I stop my six month old Labrador from jumping up? Jumping up is a common problem in young labs. These are friendly and affectionate dogs who enjoy close contact and like to greet their friends up close! You and your visitors not only tolerate it, but actually reinforce it by petting the puppy as he does it. Or rather over- excitement. This is the age at which excitable behavior can become quite a challenge again. Partly because the dog is now physically bigger, stronger, and more difficult to control. Now, more than ever, you need your dog to listen and respond to your voice. Playing safely More often than not, excitable behavior that has got out of control, started out as a game. However, if you are struggling a bit, you are not on your own. Drop into the forum and say hello to all the other puppy parents. A Labrador retriever of this particular age needs special and careful attention from a dog owner: well-balanced diet, moderate training and in-time vet examinations should be a must. On this stage, a puppy tends to grow in height, but after 1 year it is more likely to grow breadthways. Training and Behavior 6-months puppy is a real teenager in its awkward age: playful and active, but stubborn, wilful and rather troublesome. A Labrador retriever of this age thinks, that he is already an adult dog but still a playful and absent-minded puppy who wants to upset well-established hierarchy inside his family and among other dogs. Be careful! It is necessary to unleash a puppy in safe and enclosed areas only. The main rule for a dog owner now is moderate training and strong discipline toward a puppy. Do not let your dog think that it is the nub of the universe; constantly shows a puppy that you are his master and want it to obey you especially for a male dog. Recommendation: proceed socializing your puppy among other dogs and people. How to Feed a 6-Months Labrador Retriever? Now your dog should be fed times a day, at that, one meal should be a between-meal snack. For example, you can feed your puppy like that: 8 a. Labrador retrievers are prone to obesity, so, you should not overfeed your puppy. Give it meal 3 times a day in strict proportions and, if you feed a puppy with dry food, choose one for puppies prone to extra weight. Advice: even the most well-balanced diet is not able to enrich a puppy with all necessary vitamins and microelements. Choose special vitamins for puppies with a maximum content of calcium, vitamin D3 and phosphorous. Health Care 6-months age is a high time to vaccinate your puppy against rabies and a complex of other contagious diseases. Before this immunization, make sure you have treated a puppy against worms. During this period an owner should be very responsible and responsive towards a puppy: well-balanced diet, frequent walks with moderate activity and in-time vet examinations are very important. Take care of your Labrador puppy since the very beginning to make your dog sound and healthy.

Related services:

golden retriever puppies destin fl - The boxer is thought to be related to the Tibetan fighting dogs and, by some accounts, even the German Bullenbeissers. This breed became famous for its fighting prowess in the s and was officially acknowledged by the AKC in .The Blue heeler is a mysterious breed. According to some accounts, its ancestors may have been a cross between the Collies and Dingos. The credit for this cross-breeding has been allotted to numerous people throughout history and ages. It will have a strong and lean muscular body, just like the Boxer. The coat on it will depend on the genes of the dominant breed. The coat may also be weather resistant if it takes after its Blue Heeler side. Apart from this, the data on the Boxer Heeler is limited because of its rarity. The males should generally have a height range of 18 to 25 inches, while the females should have 15 to 23 inches of height. The weight range for males can be 35 to 80 lbs, while for females, it may be 20 to 60 lbs. This wide range for weight is dependent on the dominancy of the genes. This value may change depending on the dominant blood. The value may also be extended with the help of exercises and a good diet. This is a generally affordable breed when compared to its parents. The Boxer Heeler is also very affectionate and friendly with people of the household, including various pets. It is also very intelligent, just like the Boxer, and will be trained easily if it takes after its Boxer parent. It may also be very energetic if it takes after its Blue Heeler parent. It may also be slightly violent to trespassing humans, including children. It should be trained and socialized properly. The problem with that is that the Boxer Heeler is generally stubborn because of its Blue Heeler side. This means that you may have a hard time having it trained. This breed is not for first-timers. Caring for Box Heeler You already know how awesome the Boxer Heeler is, and you know that it will love you. Now it is your turn to return that love by caring for it the right way. Box Heeler Nutrition The Boxer wheeler is a semi-large breed with moderate activity levels. You should feed at least three cups of enriched food per day. The brushing depends on the quality of the coat that has been inherited from its parents. On average, the coat should be dense and short in length. Two firm brushing sessions per week should keep it from shedding. Bathing should be a minimal activity. Otherwise, you may remove essential oils from its skin with excessive bathing. Brush its teeth and trims its nails accordingly. It may have different needs for walks depending on the dominant blood. It will love long walks and playing, and an hour of activity should be sufficient if it takes after its Boxer parent. If it takes after the Blue Heeler, it will need many more activities to remain happy. On average of efficient activities with training should keep your Boxer Heeler happy. If its traits are similar to those of the Blue Heeler, then the Heeler will need more care and time when compared to the Boxer. The idea of a diet is also easily manageable with the Boxer Heeler. You may have to add in a bit more time and effort for its exercises. The main thing to take care of with the Boxer Heeler is the training and socialization. Training may also be slightly exerting because of how stubborn and rebellious it can be at its young age. Usually, hybrid breeds are weak and vulnerable to a host of different problems. It may have to go through some gastric and eye problems with age. You should remain in coordination with your local vet to keep your little buddy healthy and happy. It tends to be very energetic and may suffer a few fractures. Breeds Similar to Box Heeler. Lifespan Sociability The price of Box Heeler puppies, as with any crossbred mix, is influenced by the cost of the parental breeds. If the pedigree of the parents is high quality, then the puppies, although hybrids, will be more expensive. If one of the parents is simply a more expensive dog breed, then the price of the puppies may go up, although it will always be much lower than any purebred would be. Another factor that goes into determining the price of your new pet is the breeder from which you buy it. Make sure you find a reputable breeder who treats their dogs well. Although they are not as common as some other designer dog breeds, if this specific dog is the one you are looking for, check out your local animal shelters to rescue your Box Heeler pup instead. Box Heelers may be intolerant of hot weather. The extremely short hair on a box heeler often means that it is more difficult for them to self-regulate their temperatures and they are more prone to sun damage. Dogs with a moderate amount of hair have more protection from harmful rays and can insulate themselves, both from the heat and colder weather. If you have a Box Heeler or are interested in purchasing one, be sure that you can provide areas of shade for them if they are outside during hot days. Boxers were developed in Germany for dirty jobs. Many designer breeds were not bred until recently. This lack of history often means that there is not much information on their shared characteristics. One of the parents of the Box Heeler is the Boxer, initially bred in Germany in the 19th century. Many believe that the German created the dog from a broad mix of other dogs, including Bulldogs, Mastiffs, Terriers, and perhaps Great Danes. The goal was to breed a dog of a moderately large size and muscular build, but an athletic body to work as bull-baiting dogs. Nowadays, Boxers are commonly used as working dogs, having been one of the first breeds trained as a police dog. They also make for wonderful companion dogs and have even been trained as seeing-eye dogs and to aid those with other disabilities. Both parents have strong prey drives bred into them. The Box Heeler often has the same high prey and herding drives associated with both of the parental breeds. They may even try to herd people around the house. This prey drive comes from the cattle herding history of Boxers, and the herding drive is from the Blue Heelers of Australia. Your Box Heeler puppy can make the perfect hunting companion or be ready to herd anything that walks if trained the right way. They are known to be patient dogs, although they are often stubborn and have strong independent streaks inherited from their Blue Heeler parents. Since Boxers may be hostile around new animals and people, it is vital to socialize your Box Heeler puppy early on. By participating in early socialization, you set your dog up for a more calm and content life, easily getting along with new dogs and being less hostile around other animals in general. Both of the dogs involved in parenting the Box Heeler are quite intelligent and inquisitive. To satisfy a Box Heeler, they need physical attention and mental stimulation. Consider taking them to a dog park or training them on dog courses. Are These Dogs Good for Families? Although they can be independent at times, they like to feel as though they are a functioning part of the pack, which is what you and your family will be to them. Box Heelers are quite gentle around things smaller than them as long as they are introduced well. Still, for one territorial animal to get along with another, they need to experience other animals and strangers often. Socialization helps them respond positively to newcomers, no matter how fluffy they are. Look for foods that are high-quality and meant to feed large dogs with high amounts of energy. If they are treated as working dogs, they will need even more food to give them the endurance they need throughout the day. Do not free-feed Box Heelers, to keep them from overconsumption. On average, an active adult will need around 3 cups of high-quality food a day. Try to sync this schedule with your eating schedule, or change it to morning and evening if that is easier. A working dog is fit and accustomed to large energy outputs daily. However, this is taken care of by their daily routine. If the dog is a family pet, they need a moderate amount of exercise a day. Generally, take multiple walks around 30 minutes in length. They should be walked an average of 9 miles a week to keep them happy and healthy. They want to know the right thing to do and how to do that thing well. They can have stubborn and independent streaks. A Blue Heeler can have fluffier coats with moderately long hair. The grooming of a Box Heeler depends on the coat that it has inherited. They often have short hair that is quite dense. Fur like this needs to be brushed at least once a week to limit any shedding. Use a pin brush or a firm bristle brush to get the job done. Bathing a box heeler should only be done if absolutely necessary to keep its skin healthy. It is a cross between the Boxer and the Blue Heeler. The best way to determine the temperment of a mixed breed is to look up all breeds in the cross. It is possible you can get any combination of any of the characteristics found in either breed. It is very common for breeders to breed multi-generational crosses. Please review individual breeds for potential health issues. Boxer Breed Description - Cross 1 The Boxer is a medium to large, short-haired dog breed of mastiff-type, developed in Germany. The coat is smooth and tight-fitting; colors are fawn, brindled, or white, with or without white markings. Boxers are brachycephalic they have broad, short skulls , have a square muzzle, mandibular prognathism an underbite , very strong jaws, and a powerful bite ideal for hanging on to large prey. The Boxer was bred from the Old English Bulldog and the now extinct Bullenbeisser, which became extinct by crossbreeding rather than by a decadence of the breed. The first Boxer club was founded in , with Boxers being first exhibited in a dog show for St. Bernards in Munich the next year. Based on AKC statistics, Boxers held steady as the seventh-most popular breed of dog in the United States for the fourth consecutive year. According to the AKC's website, though, the boxer is now the 11th-most popular dog breed in the United States. Behavior Boxers are a bright, energetic, and playful breed and tend to be very good with children. They are patient and spirited with children, but also protective, making them a popular choice for families. They are active, strong dogs that require adequate exercise to prevent boredom-associated behaviors such as chewing, digging, or licking. Boxers have earned a slight reputation of being "headstrong", which can be related to inappropriate obedience training. Owing to their intelligence and working-breed characteristics, training based on corrections often has limited usefulness. Boxers, like other animals, typically respond better to positive reinforcement techniques such as clicker training, an approach based on operant conditioning and behaviorism, which offers the dog an opportunity to think independently and to problem-solve. The Boxer by nature is not an aggressive or vicious breed. It is an instinctive guardian and can become very attached to its family. Like all dogs, it requires proper socialization. Boxers are generally patient with smaller dogs and puppies, but difficulties with larger adult dogs, especially those of the same sex, may occur. Boxers are generally more comfortable with companionship, in either human or canine form. They are very patient and are great to adopt as family dogs because they are good with children and people of all kinds. The Boxer can make a good house dog, but he must be given a considerable amount of exercise. His short coat requires little care. Health Leading health issues to which Boxers are prone include cancers, heart conditions such as aortic stenosis and arrhythmogenic right ventricular cardiomyopathy the so-called "Boxer cardiomyopathy" , hypothyroidism, hip dysplasia, and degenerative myelopathy and epilepsy; other conditions that may be seen are gastric dilatation volvulus also known as bloat , intestinal problems, and allergies although these may be more related to diet than breed. Entropion, a malformation of the eyelid requiring surgical correction, is occasionally seen, and some lines have a tendency toward spondylosis deformans, a fusing of the spine, or dystocia. Other conditions that are less common but occur more often in Boxers than other breeds are hystiocytic ulcerative colitis sometimes called Boxer colitis , an invasive E. Stillbirth is the most frequent cause of death, followed by infection. Mortality due to infection increases significantly with increases in inbreeding. According to a UK Kennel Club health survey, cancer accounts for .The breed is particularly predisposed to mast cell tumours, a cancer of the immune system. Median lifespan was .Responsible breeders use available tests to screen their breeding stock before breeding, and in some cases throughout the life of the dog, in an attempt to minimize the occurrence of these diseases in future generations. As an athletic breed, proper exercise and conditioning is important for the continued health and longevity of the Boxer. Care must be taken not to overexercise young dogs, as this may damage growing bones, but once mature, Boxers can be excellent jogging or running companions. Because of their brachycephalic heads, they do not do well with high heat or humidity, and common sense should prevail when exercising a Boxer in these conditions. Blue Heeler Breed Description - Cross 2 The general appearance is that of a strong compact, symmetrically built working dog, with the ability and willingness to carry out his allotted task however arduous. As the name implies the dog's prime function, and one in which he has no peer, is the control and movement of cattle in both wide open and confined areas. Always alert, extremely intelligent, watchful, courageous and trustworthy, with an implicit devotion to duty making it an ideal dog. The female Blue Heeler measures approximately 43—48 centimetres 17—19 in at the withers, and the male measures about 46—51 centimetres 18—20 in at the withers. The dog should be longer than tall, that is, the length of the body from breast bone to buttocks is greater than the height at the withers, in a ratio of 10 to 9. An Blue Heeler in good condition weighs around 18—25 kilograms 40—55 lb. A puppy whose colored hair has not yet developed will grow through the puppy's white coat as it matures. There are two accepted coat colors, red and blue. Blue dogs can be blue, blue mottled, or blue speckled with tan on the legs and chest and white markings and a black patch or "mask" on one or both sides of the head. Red dogs are evenly speckled with solid red markings and similarly to the blue dogs can have a brown red patch "mask" on one or both sides of the head and sometimes on the body. Both red dogs and blue dogs are born white except for any solid-colored body or face markings and the red or black hairs show from around 4-weeks of age as they grow and mature. The distinctive adult coloration is the result of black or red hairs closely interspersed through a predominantly white coat. This is not merle coloration a speckled effect that has associated health issues , but rather the result of the ticking gene. A number of breeds show ticking, which is the presence of color through white areas, though the overall effect depends on other genes that will modify the size, shape and density of the ticking. In addition to the primary coloration, an Blue Heeler displays some patches of solid or near-solid color. In both red and blue dogs, the most common are masks over one or both eyes, a white tip to the tail, a solid spot at the base of the tail, and sometimes solid spots on the body. The mask consists of a black patch over one or both eyes for the blue coat color or a red patch over one or both eyes for the red coat color. Depending on whether one or both eyes have a patch, these are called, respectively, "single" or "half" mask and "double" or "full" mask. Dogs without a mask are called plain-faced. Any of these are acceptable according to the breed standard. In conformation shows, even markings are preferred over uneven markings. Behavior When on home ground, the Blue Heeler is an affectionate and playful pet. However, it is reserved with people it does not know and naturally cautious in new situations. Its attitude to strangers makes it an excellent guard dog when trained for this task, and it can be socialised to become accustomed to a variety of people from an early age as a family pet. It is good with older, considerate children, but will herd people by nipping at their heels, particularly younger children who run and squeal. By the time puppies are weaned, they should have learned that the company of people is pleasurable, and that responding to cues from a person is rewarding. The bond that this breed can create with its owner is strong and will leave the dog feeling protective towards the owner, typically resulting in the dog's never being too far from the owner's side. The Blue Heeler can be the friendliest of companions although it is quick to respond to the emotions of its owners, and may defend them without waiting for a command. The ACD was originally bred to move reluctant cattle by biting, and it will bite if treated harshly. The Blue Heeler's protective nature and tendency to nip at heels can be dangerous as the dog grows into an adult if unwanted behaviors are left unchecked. While an Blue Heeler generally works silently, it will bark in alarm or to attract attention. It has a distinctive intense, high-pitched bark. Barking can be a sign of boredom or frustration, although research has shown that pet dogs increase their vocalisation when raised in a noisy environment. It responds well to familiar dogs, but when multiple dogs are present, establishing a pecking order can trigger aggression. It is not a breed that lives in a pack with other dogs. Health The Blue Heeler carries recessive piebald alleles that produce white in the coat and skin and are linked to congenital hereditary deafness, though it is possible that there is a multi-gene cause for deafness in a dog with the piebald pigment genes. Around 2. The Blue Heeler is one of the dog breeds affected by progressive retinal atrophy. It has the most common form, progressive rod-cone degeneration PRCD , a condition that causes the rods and cones in the retina of the eye to deteriorate later in life, resulting in blindness. PRCD is an autosomal recessive trait and a dog can be a carrier of the affected gene without developing the condition. Hip dysplasia is not common in the breed, although it occurs sufficiently often for many breeders to have their breeding stock tested. The Cattle Dog has a number of inherited conditions, but most of these are not common. Hereditary polioencephalomyelopathy of the Blue Heeler is a very rare condition caused by an inherited biochemical defect. Dogs identified with the condition were completely paralysed within their first year. Based on a sample of 69 still-living dogs, the most common health issues noted by owners were musculoskeletal spondylosis, elbow dysplasia, and arthritis and reproductive pyometra, infertility, and false pregnancy , and blindness. A study of dogs diagnosed at Veterinary Colleges in the United States and Canada over a thirty-year period described fractures, lameness and cruciate ligament tears as the most common conditions in the Blue Heelers treated. Height: 17 - 20 inches at the shoulder Weight: 31 - 35 lb. Lifespan: 13 - 15 years Boxer Blue Heeler Mix - Boxheeler Personality Like all hybrids, you have to look to the parents to get a good read on how they will likely behave. This could obviously make for a very powerful and strong breed that will have a lot of energy and a high prey drive. Both of these parent breeds have higher energy and a very strong prey and drive instincts. They should get along well with other animals if exposed and socialized properly as well. They are somewhat capable of independence, or alone time when the house is noisy or full. She responds well to positive reinforcement, like all dogs. She should be rather affectionate and enjoy spending lots of time with you. However, the one positive thing about getting a puppy is that you can avoid this as much as possible. A breeder should absolutely offer a health guarantee on puppies. A reputable breeder will be honest and open about health problems in the breed and the incidence with which they occur. Health clearances prove that a dog has been tested for and cleared of a particular condition. The Boxer mixed with the Blue Heeler might be prone to Cancer, heart problems, hypothyroidism, bloat, deafness, eye problems, patellar luxation, Note that these are just common problems in both breeds. Both of these dogs have rather shorter hair and should be pretty easy to groom. The Blue Heeler will probably shed more, but it still has shorter hair. Be prepared to brush them a few times a week. Either way, get ready to invest in a good vacuum if you want to keep your floors clean! Give them baths as needed, but not so much that you dry out their skin. Never tie your dog up outside - that is inhumane and not fair to him. What are the exercise requirements? Plan on taking them for extremely long walks and hikes to keep their energy level down. This exercise will keep them from being destructive. A tired dog is a good dog. A tired dog is a good dog though. What are the training requirements? This is an intelligent dog that will be a little bit challenging to train. They are going to want to take the alpha position and need someone with a firm, strong, hand that can let them know their place. The best thing you can do is break the sessions into shorter daily sessions to keep their attention span higher. It might have a prey drive and be disposed to running for and chasing small prey, but if handled properly this can be managed. All dogs respond best to positive reinforcement. So make sure to praise her when she does well. She is an intelligent dog who loves to please, and loves a physical challenge. The more exercise she gets the easier she will be to train. Proper socialization is imperative to all dogs and puppies. Make sure to take her to the park and doggy day care to get her around as many people and dogs as possible. Each one is unique and has different dietary requirements. Most dogs in the U. A mix like this one that is prone to hip and elbow dysplasia should really be on fish oil and glucosamine and chondroitin supplements as soon as possible. Overfeeding any dog is not a good idea as that can really exacerbate health problems such as elbow and hip dysplasia. A good diet to look into is Raw Food Diet. A raw food diet will be especially good for the Wolf background. Links to other breeds you might be interested in.

Similar services:

golden retriever puppies destin fl - This is a good question because the answer depends on many factors: the breed of the dog, size, medical conditions, and how active the dog is. If you have a French Bulldog , the2nd most popular dog in the US, the answer becomes much more interesting. French Bulldogs have a single short coat of hair. They get cold quickly. During summer, they are prone to heatstroke because it is hard for them to regulate their temperature efficiently. Also, their skin is too thin, and bathing them regularly can strip their skin of its natural oil. Therefore, it is crucial to have all the necessary information you need to determine how often to bathe your Frenchie. You also need to know how to wash your Frenchie properly and keep them clean between baths. Follow this article for a comprehensive guide. A general rule of thumb Frenchies should be bathed once every 1 to 2 months. Although many French Bulldog owners say they wash them about 5 or 6 times a year, or as needed, most owners find the as needed comes more often than 5 or 6 times a year. If you have a Frenchie that loves rolling in the dirt, you may find that more frequent bathing is necessary; each Frenchie is different. Does it act as messy as a piglet? If you need to clean not only his paws but also his fur when you get back from the outside, then you have full hands of works. As a replacement, you can use a dry cleaning foam and wet towel that will help you remove all the dirt from their fur. Use products suitable for sensitive skin and rich in herbs that provide essential and healthy moisture. Check the section on keeping Frenchies clean between baths for more. Does your dog have dry and flaky skin? Is the skin sensitive? If your dog developed any of the previously mentioned issues, it would be best if you consult with your vet before determining the frequency of baths. If your dog does not have any serious issues, you can bathe them with shampoo and water once per month. Frenchies have numerous folds that require to be cleaned in the meanwhile. They can collect dirt, moisture, and food leftovers that may trigger severe irritations. The flip side is that Frenchies have oils in their skins, just like all dogs do. It keeps their coat healthy and their skin healthy too. What about a French bulldog with allergies? If your Frenchie has pre-existing skin allergies, it would be best to defer you to your veterinarian. They would determine the cause and treatment and what works best for your particular dog. Here are some tips for making bath time a success. Use a dog shampoo for sensitive skin. Clean the ears, and wash any gunk from around the eyes. Make sure you thoroughly dry the wrinkle area. If your Frenchie has tear stains, you can remove them with an appropriate cream. How to keep Frenchies clean between baths Fun fact: your Frenchie dreads bathing just as much as you dread bathing it. Here are some methods to keep him clean and keep the need for bathing down to a minimum. Clean Their Ears — This will prevent odors and painful infections. Clean Their Tail Pocket — Clean the area around the tail, especially if it smells. Doggie Sprays — Doggies sprays are like human perfumes but specially crafted for dog hair. They work great for keeping your Frenchie smelling good. Dry Shampoo — Apply dog-friendly dry shampoo on the dog and brush it out. This is great for keeping them smelling great. A homemade combination of cornstarch and baking soda works just as well. Pet Wipes — Pet wipes are an excellent touch-up cleaning option for French Bulldogs. Watch out for wrinkles and paws - Wrinkles can be a prime area for infections when they are moist, so you should dry them off with wipes or tissue. Also, make sure to dry the gaps between their toes. Takeaway To conclude, how often you bathe your Frenchie is all down to an as and when basis. If your French Bulldog is covered in mud and stinks, he needs a bath — no argument. However, with lighter dirt, just brush it off and possibly use a good dry shampoo product. The less often you bathe your French Bulldog with water and cleaning products, the less their natural oils, skin, and coat will suffer. Frenchies are trainable. Starting them off at a young age can make all the difference in how they accept the bathing process. If you love learning more about French bulldogs, go ahead and sign up for our Frenchie Blog. My dogs are groomed and checked for ticks and fleas every day. I have always been a firm believer in regular brushing and bathing - every couple weeks for the dogs, and about once a month for my cats. If not, click on the highlighted link to order. Here are some photos, enjoy. My line of pet shampoos and conditioners on Amazon is completely natural, hypoallergenic and gentle enough for regular bathing. The formulas are also paraben and sulfate free. My collection includes an all-purpose formula, an itch relief formula, a special moisturizing formula and a two-in-one tearless shampoo and conditioner formula for puppies. Bath time for my small dogs and cats takes place in the big laundry room in my Winter House basement. I have two large, deep enameled sinks there, which are good for soaping and rinsing. He also adds a small amount of shampoo to the water, so it is diluted before the dog is placed into the sink. Creme Brulee is first. These Frenchies are just the right size for these large sinks. My Chow Chows are much bigger, especially Han — they get bathed in the tub. My dogs are very accustomed to being bathed. Apply the shampoo from the back of the neck to the tail and always be very careful around the face, ears, and eyes. Once she feels the lukewarm water, Creme Brulee starts to relax. Enma uses a massage brush to lather up the shampoo. My shampoo formulas are all pH balanced for dogs and great for pets with sensitive skin. She also makes sure to clean her mouth and flews, or lips. These areas can often trap dirt or food. After applying the shampoo, rubbing it in, and letting it soak into the coat a few minutes, rinse well with clean, lukewarm water. The important thing is to get any traces of soap out of the coat. And then Carlos dries Creme Brulee very, very well. Here she is all wrapped up in a large terry towel. Once Creme Brulee is on the grooming table, which is also located in the basement across the room from the sinks, Creme Brulee gets brushed with a soft bristle brush. Carlos blow dries her short coat while Enma wipes her ears. Enma also carefully wipes her face, and the creases on either side of her nose. Next is Bete Noire. Always use shampoos specifically designed for pets. Shampoos formulated for humans are much more acidic than those for dogs. The pH of dog skin is very different from that of human skin. While human skin has a pH of around 5. Carlos pours about a quarter-sized amount into his hand and then into the warm water. Bete Noire is soaped from neck to tail and under the body. Bath time is also a good time to check for any abnormalities in the skin. After shampooing, Enma gives her a thorough rinse all over the top of her body. Carlos then rinses her back side and underbelly. Despite this expression, Bete Noire is not frightened or upset at all. The French Bulldog is known to be comical, entertaining, and dependably amiable. My Frenchies make everyone laugh here at the farm. The two Frenchies are now clean and comfy. Who wants to go first? Pin 0 Shares We live near a forest, and it gets very muddy! That means that we have to give our Frenchie a bath or shower a couple of times a month after we get back from a long walk. In this guide we will show you how to bathe a French Bulldog, but using the shower for cleaning, rather than an actual bath with water filled into it. You can also watch the showering process in our French Bulldog bath video shown further down the page. How to bathe a French bulldog video Watch the video first which shows you how to shower and wash a French Bulldog puppy in your bath, then see some photos and additional tips further down the page. How to wash a French Bulldog in a bath and shower Before I show you how we do it, take a look at the photo below. This is Claude out in the forest where he loves to go and play. He is a typical Frenchie and loves rolling around in mud. He thinks getting filthy is hilarious. We will get him home and he will then make a huge mess of our house. As you can see, he will definitely need a bath after this! After a day in the forest, Claude the Frenchie needs a very good bath and shower! Place your French Bulldog in the bath This was the part that we initially struggled with when he was a younger puppy. After a few baths, your Frenchie should get used to it and not be too scared. He would try to leap out of the bath as soon as the shower was turned on, which made a lot of mess. By about the third time our Frenchie puppy was bathed and showered, he trusted us and no longer panicked. Place your puppy or Frenchie in the bath gently and take things really slowly at first until they are used to it. Rinse him down with warm water Before we even get the special doggy shampoo out, we will give him a quick rinse down. We will rinse our Frenchie down with warm water to get the majority of dirt off him. Most of the time Claude has caked on dry mud which we will have to loosen up with the warm water and shower head. We get rid of the bulk of the dirt before the shampooing. Use a special dog calming shampoo Since day one, we bathed our French Bulldog puppy with a special calming shampoo. This is the best shampoo for a French Bulldog that we have managed to find in the UK. Most of these dog calming shampoos are very similar, and I recently found a dog shampoo on Amazon that appears to have good reviews. Rinse out the shampoo and repeat Claude is usually so dirty that we need to give him one or two more applications of doggy shampoo. We find that his underbelly and under his neck is where most of the dirt is due to the way in which he gets into mud, so give that an extra rub through and rinse with the shampoo and warm water. Our Frenchie hates getting water in his face, and if we do accidentally get the water and shampoo in his eye this did happen once! Dry your Frenchie off after his bath with the second towel you have. Remember I said earlier we had two towels? You can now use the second to wrap him and town him down, getting him as dry as your possibly can. Handy Hint: You are probably going to need to use the other towel to protect you, as once he gets out of the bath he will give himself a really good shake, and the water goes everywhere! Dry your Frenchie with a hair dryer optional The strange thing about showering a French Bulldog is that they seem to smell worse once they have been bathed. Use a dry clean spray shampoo optional To really get him smelling better, try using a dry clean shampoo spray. You can see a photo of the one we use, and there are similar products available. You can see the latest prices for the dry shampoo on Amazon. This spray can be used after your bathe your French Bulldog or be taken on trips for a quick non-shower clean up. You simply give them a few sprays with it over their body. In our experience, it gets rid of the wet dog smell. Handy Hint: Despite your best efforts, he might still have slightly wet paws. This leaves a mess around the house, so for 20 minutes we will often put his blanket in his old puppy training crate, and put him in there until his paws are completely dry. Do French Bulldogs like baths? If you have a Frenchie who is scared of the bath, the best thing to do is take it very slowly with baby steps and keep calm. How often should you bath French Bulldogs? Bathing your Frenchie more than 5 times a year can mean that the oils in their skin can dry out. For smaller clean-up operations we will use unscented wet wipes and a combination of the dry clean shampoo I spoke about earlier. Conclusion If you own this breed then will need to know how to give a French Bulldog a bath or shower at some point. Frenchies are notorious for rolling around in mud, poo, and even dead animal carcasses — we once stopped Claude rolling around on a dead rat… disgusting! If you shower your French Bulldog daily or even more than a few times a week, you can dry out the essential natural oils they have in the skin. However, like us, you might have to give yours a shower more often that you might think! If you do, I hope our little French Bulldog bath video and guide to showering a Frenchie has given you some help. How often should I bathe my French Bulldog puppy and what are their grooming needs? French Bulldogs sport a short and smooth coat that should be relatively fine to the touch. You do not want to over wash your Frenchie and dry out natural skin oils. We bathe our Frenchies on an as needed basis which is generally once a month , but we regularly spot clean them with wet washcloths or wet wipes unscented and for sensitive skin. Their behinds occasional need to be wiped clean as well, as does any other breed. The bottom line is that they should be washed as needed, and if your acceptance level of what is appropriate cleanliness is different than ours, it should not be a problem. There is quite a range of latitude in bathing frequency. There are many good dog shampoos on the market and it is really just a matter of personal preference. They can be purchased at any pet store, Walmart, etc. Years ago, when we owned a Yorkie, our vet recommended using baby shampoo because Yorkies tend to frequently get goop around the eyes; and, the baby shampoo allowed us to clean the area around their eyes without irritating them. We still use baby shampoo with our Frenchies since they have lots of folds on their faces that require regular cleaning. If you decide to go with a dog shampoo, choose a mild formulated shampoo for sensitive skin; your vet may have some good recommendations. French Bulldogs are short-haired and have a single coat; so, fortunately, they do not shed as much as most breeds. Brushing their coat regularly with a rubber brush will remove any dead or loose hair — which in turn, will reduce the amount of shedding. The are prone to becoming damp and this is where infection can result. They also can collect dirt and food causing infections also. Utah has a very dry climate, so for us it is sufficient to regularly clean their folds with baby shampoo and then thoroughly dry them with a dry cloth. The frequency of maintenance varies from Frenchie to Frenchie, as well as climatic conditions. Frenchies with large, ropey wrinkling in a hot, humid environment would require the most attention; whereas, a lightly wrinkled Frenchie in a cool, dry environment would require the least. It is recommended that you clean the wrinkles out at least once a week initially and then vary your schedule based on the requirements of each Frenchie. Tear stains appear more prevalent on the lighter color Frenchies. There are many products on the market which claim to remove and or prevent tear stain removal, but the most commonly referred to method is the use of Desitin yes, the same ointment used for the treatment of baby rash. The ointment is spread along the length of the stain and after two or three weeks of application the stains should have disappeared. Care must be taken in both cases to assure that neither gets into the dogs eyes. The nose can be susceptible to drying out. The best way to remedy this is to regularly apply a smear of petroleum jelly Vaseline to the nose. This keeps the nose dark and moist. Our vet also recommended vitamin E just squeeze a little of the capsule , which we have found to work very well. Some people do not feel comfortable clipping their dogs nails and will take them to a groomer or vet. However, if you want to save time and money, it is a fairly simple task that takes only a few minutes. There are two types of of clippers: a guillotine or a scissor type. The guillotine is the easiest to use. The instructions that come with the clippers will guide you on how to use the instrument. Light claws are easier to cut than dark claws as the blood vessels and nerves that supply the toenail, called the quick, is easier to see. Cut the toenail to within approximately 2 mm of the quick. If you cut into the quick, the toenail will bleed and the dog will experience pain — nothing serious, but they might not sit too still the next time you undertake this task. When cutting dark toenails, it is better to cut just a little off at a time. Some Frenchie owners, who have dogs with dark toenails, cut them once every week or two so that they only have to cut off a little at a time, avoiding any fear of cutting into the quick. If you do accidentally cut into the quick, no harm done. Bleeding generally stops within a few minutes it helps to apply pressure with a paper towel. Have More Questions?