golden retriever puppies for sale new mexico

golden retriever puppies for sale new mexico - Food bowl Treats Make sure you have all the above items before you bring your Golden retriever puppy home so that you can get started crate training him right away. Position The Crate Before you set off to collect your puppy, decide where you want his crate to be. Prepare The Crate Fit the crate with a non-slip crate liner, comfy bed, or crate pad, and put a tempting chew toy inside. Put a bowl of water and a packet of treats close by. Cut a small piece of the blanket and put it in the crate. Keep the rest of the blanket for future use. Let the puppy check out the area around the crate. Curious pups might even voluntarily venture inside the crate! Put a few tempting treats inside the crate, close to the door. Golden retrievers are notoriously food-oriented dogs that will most likely be enticed into the crate by those yummy treats. Never force the puppy into the crate. Chat to your pet, offer him more treats, and add a fun toy to the mix to persuade your furry friend to go into the crate. Generally, placing the crate around people will help to encourage your puppy to feel comfortable spending time inside it. Play Crate Games Crate sessions can be made more enjoyable for your puppy by incorporating some crate games. Use treats, cuddly toys, or a KONG toy stuffed with frozen peanut butter or treats to reward your puppy for entering his crate. Crate Feeding Your Golden Retriever Puppy Golden retrievers are very food-oriented, and you can use that to enhance and speed up the crate training process considerably. Allow your puppy to watch you prepare his meal, and then place the food bowl just inside the crate. Once your puppy is confidently going into the crate to get the food, move the food bowl to the back of the crate. Shut The Door By now, your Golden retriever puppy should view the crate as a safe, comfortable, fun place to be. So, try closing the crate door when your puppy is happily tucking into his food. The first time the door is closed, open it again once your pet has finished eating. At each crate training session, leave the door shut for a little longer. Step Back Away From The Crate Assuming that your crate routine is going well, your Golden retriever puppy should now associate the crate with a couple of treats, toys, games, and eating his meals. A common mistake people make is that they try to move too far away from the puppy too soon. Provided that the puppy is calm, you can now move away from the crate. If your puppy starts whinging, turn your back on your pet, and wait a few minutes until the whining stops. After ten seconds of your pet remaining calm, you can turn around and allow him to come out of the crate. Watch your puppy throughout this exercise, and let your pet out of the crate as soon as he shows signs of anxiety. Very young puppies aged up to ten weeks old will need to relieve themselves immediately after a meal. Potty Breaks When you begin your crate training puppy schedule , observe your pet closely for tell-tale signs that he needs to go potty. Generally, puppies will start whining, circling, and sniffing the ground when they need to relieve themselves. When that happens, immediately grab your puppy, and get him to his assigned toilet spot. Eight-week-old puppies typically need to go for a pee around every 30 to 60 minutes. During warm weather or after exercise, when the puppy drinks more, he might need to go more often than that. Once the puppy is older, he will be able to wait for longer between potty stops. What About Bedtime? The safest place for your puppy to spend the night is confined in his crate. Although your pup might experience a bit of separation anxiety from bedtime crating at first, you can help to mitigate that by putting the crate in your bedroom with you. Use a crate cover to create that safe, den-like space that encourages your canine companion to settle down and sleep. Sometimes, giving your Golden retriever puppy a special treat reserved for bedtime can help him understand that his crate is a comfortable space to spend the night. Expect Disturbed Nights! When your puppy is very young, you can expect to be disturbed by his cries for attention during the night. Dogs are clean animals, and they will resist soiling their sleeping area if at all possible. So, set your alarm to wake you up every couple of hours throughout the night so that you can take your puppy outside to relieve himself. Immediately Clean Up Accidents Unfortunately, dealing with potty accidents is all part and parcel of raising and training a new puppy. When that happens, never punish or scold your pup. When accidents happen around your home, use an enzyme cleaner to remove the scent of urine from your floor coverings. If your puppy has an accident in his crate, you must wash all the bedding immediately. Ensure that you have a good supply of spare bedding to grab if you need it, and clean the crate thoroughly to remove any lingering smell of urine. Golden retrievers are especially quick at remembering simple words, and these trainable dogs are typically pretty obedient. So, from the get-go, you need to begin using verbal cues. Pick short and clear words so that your puppy can easily recognize and remember them. Combine your cue words with crate training. Increase The Difficulty As crate training progresses, you can make things more challenging for your puppy. Ask your dog to stay in the crate with the door closed for longer periods, and begin to move out of sight. Just like little kids, puppies will throw tantrums during the first few days of crate training. That behavior is perfectly normal and to be expected, especially when you first close the crate door. Instead, reward calm behavior with treats verbal praise, and let your puppy come out of the crate. So, when a tantrum kicks off, simply turn your back on your furry friend, and wait until he settles down again. Consistency Is Crucial! One of the most common problems people experience when crate training their puppy is not being consistent. Yes, it can be tough when your adorable fluffy bundle is crying and whining inside his crate. Unfortunately, giving in to your fur baby when he complains simply teaches your pet that whining and other bad behavior get him what he wants, which sets your training regimen back. Playtime Is Vital A lively Golden retriever puppy bursting with energy is not likely to settle calmly in his crate. Final Thoughts I hope you enjoyed our guide to crate training a Golden retriever puppy. If you did, please remember to share it. Crates are also useful tools for potty training your puppy and preventing bad behavior, such as chewing and eating harmful substances. Always be consistent and patient when crate training your puppy; use cue words and positive reinforcement to make learning fun for both your pet and you. Did you use a crate to train your Golden retriever puppy? Tell us how you did in the comments box below. Meet our writer Alison Page Alison Page was brought up with dogs and various other pets! For a few years, Alison worked as a Practice Manager in a small animal veterinary clinic. Alison is now a full-time writer, specializing in creating articles on the care and training of dogs, cats, and fish. Leave a Comment. Key Takeaways Crate training can help you provide a safe and comfortable environment for your Golden Retriever. Avoid rushing the crate training process to ensure your dog feels comfortable and secure. Please do not use the crate as a punishment or leave your dog in it for extended periods. Crate training can be more effective and enjoyable for your dog if you use consistency, positive reinforcement, treats, and toys. Make it more comfortable by providing toys, blankets, and treats. Step 2: Once your pup is at ease, close the door and bring toys and treats inside. Keep an eye on them and let them out if they become distressed. Step 3: Increase the time your puppy spends in the crate with the door closed gradually, and step away from the crate while they are distracted. Step 4: Extend the time you are away from the crate. Selecting The Right Crate Size To ensure your Golden Retriever is comfortable and has enough space in their crate, you need to measure them accurately. Golden Retrievers will typically grow to by 20 to 24 inches tall and up to 75 lbs, so you need to make sure to get them the right size crate. Follow these steps to determine the size of your dog: 1. Measure the height of your Golden Retriever: Have your dog stand up straight, Measure from the floor to the top of their shoulder blades. Add around inches to this measurement to determine the minimum height for the crate. Measure the length of your dog from the tip of their nose to the base of their tail. Remember to add 2 to 4 inches to the measurement. Measure their width by having your Golden Retriever standing with their legs slightly apart. Focus your attention on the widest part of their body, which tends to be the chest area. Once again, always add up to 4 inches to the figure. Finally, you want to consider the age of your Golden Retriever. For example, if you have a puppy, keep in mind that they will grow rapidly. You may want to choose a crate that will work for their adult size or opt for an adjustable crate with dividers, so you can gradually increase the space as they grow. Your Golden Retriever puppy will rapidly outgrow a nice crate that is not suited for an adult size. Now that you have all the measurements, you can refer to this Crate Size Calculator to find out the right and best dog crate size for your golden retriever. What Is Crate Training? Crate training is the process of teaching a dog to accept a crate as a familiar and safe location. Here are some of the reasons: House training: Using a crate, you can help your dog learn where and when to go potty. This will make house training more effortless and less stressful for both of you. Safe space: A crate can be a relaxing and safe place for your dog to relax and sleep. It can also help keep your dog out of a mess by preventing them from chewing on inappropriate items or getting into dangerous substances. Traveling: Whether driving or flying across the country, a crate can help keep your dog safe and comfortable. Additionally, many hotels and other accommodations allow crate-trained dogs. Separation anxiety: A crate can provide security and comfort if your dog gets anxious when you leave. Knowing they have a safe place to go can help alleviate their anxiety and make their time away from home less stressful. Overall, crate training is an excellent way to provide your dog with a secure and comfortable environment to call their own. You should start crate training your puppy when you bring them home. However, with patience and positive reinforcement, an older dog can be trained to use a crate. Crate training can be a helpful way to provide a safe and comfortable space for your Golden Retriever to rest and relax, but it should never be used as a form of punishment or confinement. When done responsibly and positively, crate training can be a positive and effective method for you and your Golden Retriever. However, with time, consistency, and positive reinforcement, you can help your dog get used to his crate. Add treats, toys, and blankets to the crate to make it more inviting. Increasing the time your dog spends in the crate gradually is crucial. Remember that crate training should be enjoyable for you and your Golden Retriever. You can quickly make your furry friend feel safe and secure in their crate with a little effort! Benefits Of Crate Training Your Golden Retriever Crate training can be super helpful for your furry friend and offer them a bunch of benefits, such as: Prevents Destructive Behavior: By giving your Golden Retriever a cozy and secure space, crate training can prevent them from chewing, digging, or scratching on household items. Potty Training: Crate training can teach your Golden Retriever to associate the crate with their den, making it easier to hold their bladder and bowels until you take them outside. Prepares Them For Travel: If you need to take your Golden Retriever on a trip, crate training can help them feel comfortable and secure while in transit. Crate training is a great way to help your Golden Retriever feel safe, secure, and comfortable while preventing destructive behavior and keeping them healthy and happy. Adult dogs: They can handle up to 8 hours in a crate, ideally with a break in the middle. Overnight: Many dogs can stay in a crate overnight without issues. Always ensure that any time in the crate is a positive experience for the dog, supplemented by regular breaks, exercise, and playtime outside of the crate. The shift is a delicate balance of patience, supervision, and positive reinforcement. Gradual Exploration Start by letting your dog explore a restricted, safe space under supervision. As comfort grows, extend the time they spend outside the crate. Monitor and Supervise Observe your dog closely during early freedom stages to prevent accidents or mischief. Ensure your home is dog-proofed to minimize potential hazards. Essential Amenities Keep their water bowl accessible. Designate a comfortable resting spot outside the crate. Positive Reinforcement Reward good behavior with treats or praise. This encourages adherence to house rules and reinforces desired behavior. Display patience and affection throughout their transition. With time and consistent guidance, your furry friend will seamlessly integrate into the household, striking a balance between freedom and behavior. Before leaving your dog alone in the crate, be patient and make sure your furry friend is comfortable and safe. For them, the crate should be a positive and safe space, and associating it with negative experiences can cause anxiety and fear. While some time in the crate is acceptable, providing sufficient opportunities for exercise, socialization , and bathroom breaks throughout the day is essential. Maintain a consistent routine and use the same commands each time you place your dog in the crate. Use Toys And Treats: Place toys and treats inside the crate to entice your dog to enter. This will make the crate a more positive and enjoyable environment for them to be in. Ensure your pup gets enough exercise and playtime throughout the day, so your furry companion can relax in the crate when the time comes. Excessive whining, barking, panting, and restlessness are all signs of stress in a Golden Retriever. If your furry friend exhibits these behaviors in the crate, they may be too stressed. Can I use a crate for my adult golden retriever? Yes, as long as it is appropriately sized and they are comfortable in it, you can use a crate for your adult Golden Retriever. Can you leave a puppy crying in the crate? Leaving a crying puppy in the crate is not recommended because it can cause separation anxiety and other behavioral problems. Instead, it is critical to gradually acclimate them to the crate and create a positive and comfortable environment. Should you put a blanket over a dog crate? Yes, draping a blanket over a dog crate can provide a sense of security and darkness, but ensure proper ventilation is maintained. What age is too late to train a puppy? Galen has been connecting quality Golden Retriever breeders with loving families since and is the founder of My Golden Retriever Puppies. He and his wife have four children and love spending time together, traveling lived oversees for 4 years , enjoying the outdoors and connecting Golden families. Be the first to know when we have new puppies! All Rights Reserved. Read the full disclosure here. I know that, and eventually, your dog will know that, too. In this article you will learn exactly how to crate train a puppy or dog, no matter their age or level of previous training. You should read the whole guide before starting, to gain a complete understanding of the process, including the tips and troubleshooting at the end so you can find the speediest success. Why do we do this? We do this so we can use the crate as a place for short-term confinement, to keep our dogs and our belongings safe when we cannot supervise them. Then we can confine them short-term when needed, and they are happy to do so. Yes, they can even enjoy their time in the crate! In contrast: A properly crate trained dog will enjoy time in there happily and stress-free, even relishing the chance to get down to some occupational chew toy time or just to chill out and relax. Dog obedience is key to get this result! Benefits such as: Dramatically speeding up house training. Giving your dog a cozy and comfortable place to call their own where they can sleep and relax, overnight or whenever they wish. Giving you a tool to use for managing problem behaviors or to use for time outs to calm your puppy when needed. Giving you a safe way to transport your dog both by car and air if the need should arise. So they can enjoy trips away and holidays with you. Preparing your puppy for boarding at the vets, a kennel or at home to recover after medical treatment. There are many benefits to using a crate when used correctly, but they can also be misused. And there are also times when you should never crate a dog, regardless of their age or how much or little they can be trusted: Times And Ways That You Should Not Use A Crate There are a small number of dogs that suffer true anxiety and panic when placed in a crate. Under no circumstances should these dogs be crated…ever! The signs you need to look out for are: Any damage to the crate that show signs of attempting to escape. Urinating or defecating in the crate. The crate has moved at all while your dog is inside they must have made some frantic movements for this to happen. Never if your dog has sickness or diarrhea. Never when the weather is extremely hot. Never for any time longer than 5 hours. Not any time your vet prohibits it for medical reasons. Never as a way to punish your dog or for punishment. Use obedience training to correct bad behavior instead. Crating your dog for any of the reasons above is either inhumane, dangerous or purely selfish. Getting Prepared Before you can start crate training, you obviously need a crate. But you also need to make it a comfortable and happy place for your dog. Choosing A Crate Dog sleeping in crate There are many different sizes and style of dog crates available, from tiny inch crates all the way up to inch and bigger! XXL heavy duty dog crates. There are wire dog crates , plastic, fabric and even high quality wooden crates that look just like pieces of furniture. But the most important aspect of the crate you choose is its size: Too small and it would be cruel to expect your dog or puppy to spend time in there Too large and it loses the den like feeling dogs crave, not to mention they can use one end to sleep in while using the other end as a toilet, so it loses its effectiveness. For detailed instructions on measuring your dog for a crate and selecting the right size and type to suit your needs, please see my article: Choosing The Right Size And Type Of Dog Crate 2. Making The Crate Comfortable And Safe Dog In Soft Crate After choosing the right crate, you then have to make it a comfortable, safe and pleasant place for your puppy or dog to love spending time. For a detailed guide on where to place your crate and what you should put in it, you can read my article on: How to make a crate comfortable and safe for your dog. Make sure the crate is out of any direct sunlight, away from heat sources like fireplaces or radiators, and away from any possible cold drafts. Place soft, comfortable bedding inside. Place 2 or more chew toys inside to keep them occupied and develop good chew toy habits. If you have a wire crate, cover it either with a purpose bought crate cover or an old blanket or towel. Following the above 5 tips ensures the crate is a nice comfortable place for your dog. These pose a risk of choking if they happen to snag on anything, so no collars or leashes allowed. Your dog or puppy must be completely naked when crated. You must not rush through and you must make sure you are successful at each stage before you move on to the next, otherwise you could end up causing your dog or puppy to hate the crate by leaving them crated before they are ready. This unfamiliar box can be scary! The ultimate goal is for them to use it voluntarily. So the first task you have on the journey to crate training your puppy or dog is to form in their mind an association between the crate and all the things that they enjoy in life, so they see the crate as a good thing. Fail at this and you could saddle yourself with a dog who hates the crate, refuses to use it and maybe even fears it which can be a very hard thing to undo. So how do you go about achieving this? Technique 1: Magically Appearing Toys And Treats Set up the crate before you bring your dog home or if you have an existing pet, assemble the crate without them seeing so it just magically appears. Now let your dog or puppy into the room. So what should you do? Just act as you normally would, do what you would normally do. Play with your dog or puppy, or sit and watch TV, just act normal. Hopefully they will investigate this new thing in their world, enticed by the treats around and inside it, but also out of plain curiosity. Just draw no attention to the crate at all. Every dog will eventually at least eat the treats around the crate, if not the ones inside. This has the effect of the most prized things in their life being magically conjured up by the crate. Do this for a couple of days or more before you start crate training, and then occasionally for the few weeks after starting so your dog learns to love the crate and what it provides. You should find after a very short time they venture into the crate on their own just to look for some goodies, all without any encouragement from you. NOTE: Any treats you give this way have to be subtracted from their daily food portions or they will be overeating. And I say to do this just for the first few days and then only occasionally because to help house training you want your puppy eating on a schedule to promote defecating on a schedule, not eating at random times and pooping at random times. Feed these meals inside the crate. At first, place their food bowl just inside so they only have to poke their head in to feed. Then after the first couple of times, place it half way into the crate. After a couple of times of this, place it all the way at the back. You might be successful with this right away, or you may have to place it at the front for a few meals over a few days. Some dogs confidence builds quicker than others. Eventually and not before too long you should find your dog expectantly running over to and maybe even into the crate every time they see you holding their food bowl. After a few days of magic appearing treats and your dog eating dinner from the crate, basically once they are used to the crate and associate good things with it, we are ready to start crate training. When you do release your dog you do not want them bolting out and bumping into you, particularly important if you have a large dog such as a Golden Retriever that can easily bowl you over on their way past! You want them to reliably leave the crate when you ask. You can only achieve these three things if your dog understands that they must stay inside until told they can leave, or must leave when they hear the cue word. Choose whatever words you like, just be consistent. You do not want to spook your dog at this stage. Sit close to the crate armed with some high value treats, show them to your dog and then throw one inside the crate. Move away so they can easily exit and just stand patiently and quietly waiting for them to do so. Repeat this 8 to 10 times then take a couple of minutes break. Then do another set of 8 to .Yes, for real. Repeat this whole exercise a few times over the course of a day or two until your dog is comfortably, happily and reliably going in the crate when you throw in a treat. Training your dog to do this is a huge step! Make sure they really are confidently going in to get the treat before moving to the next step. And remember to use your cue words every single time so they quickly learn them. Step 3: No Treat For Free! The next step is to ask your puppy or dog into the crate before you treat them. Make them work for the treat instead of using it to lure them into the crate. To start, do 2 or 3 exercises of throwing a treat in and using the cue word as they go in to get it. When they do, give them a treat or two while you praise them profusely. Then use the cue word to leave and praise them when they do. Repeat this 8 to 10 times, take a couple of minutes break, then do another 8 to 10 before finishing up for this session. Repeat this step many times over the course of a day or two until you are certain your puppy or dog truly understands the commands and is happy to both go into and leave the crate on cue before you move to step 4. Now, many of you will have a dog at this stage that goes in, gets the treat or their toys and cannot wait to get back out again. But some will already be sitting, laying and sleeping in the crate of their own accord. Regardless though, what you want to achieve is your puppy or dog to sit and lie in the crate on cue, which is different to doing it of their own accord. Begin this just a couple of days after getting them home because they need to understand the cues outside of the crate before you can hope to have them follow the commands inside it. Other things you should have been doing before this step are: feeding your dog or puppy their main meals inside the crate occasionally leaving stuffed Kong toys in the crate this gets them used to spending time in there, usually in a sitting or laying position this will have made things easier Now, run through 2 or 3 repetitions of steps 2 and 3 before you start step 4, always remembering to use your chosen cues! Next, when your dog is inside the crate: Simply cue them to sit, praise and reward them profusely when they do. Then ask for a down and do the same. Then cue them to leave the crate before repeating the exercise. Try this 8 to 10 times before a few minutes break, then repeat for 8 to 10 times more. Repeat this whole step a few times over a day or more, but as you repeat the exercises, ask them to stay sitting or lying down for longer periods before you release them. And you should vary the duration to keep them guessing what it takes to earn a treat. Try just 1 second, then 5, then 2, then 10, then 3 and so on. Try to stretch the time out over a few practice sessions. Remember to be gentle and that your tone of voice throughout training matters. As always: Start with 2 or 3 repetitions of the easier steps first, going through steps 3 and 4 before trying to close the door. When ready: Cue your dog to go into the crate, praise and treat them, then ask for a sit, praise and treat and then slowly close the door. You ask for a sit because this position is automatically a more calm and relaxed position than standing. Continue to praise your dog and give a couple of treats through the closed door for remaining calm and sitting. Then open the door, and cue them to leave the crate. If your dog looks fearful or panicked when you close the door some will! Start by closing the door just part way for a few repetitions, then half way for a few, then most the way before finally closing it fully. This may take one training session or a few over days. Are you ready to move on? Once your dog is happy to sit a few seconds with the door closed, begin to latch it. Praise and treat for calm, then release the latch and open the door. For a training session, do 8 to 10 reps, take a few minutes break and then repeat. During each set, vary the time they have to stay calm and sitting, 3 seconds, then 10, then 4, then 15 and so on. You should aim to extend the time they stay calm and sitting with the door closed to a full minute before moving on to the next step. Again, this could take an afternoon, or it might take a few days. Go at your dogs pace and never force things. The base is serving as a staging facility for hurricane relief operations. Air Force photo by Master Sgt. Jack Braden Once your puppy or dog can sit calmly in the crate with the door closed for a full minute, the next step is to start moving away with the ultimate aim of being able to leave the room. First of all, perform a few reps of steps 4 and 5 as a warm up, remembering to always use your cues. Next, follow these steps: Cue your dog into the crate, close the door, latch it, praise and reward them and take a couple of steps backwards away from the crate but still facing it. Then return, praise and reward. Open the door and cue your dog to come out. Do this exercise 8 to 10 times, then take a few minutes break and repeat. For each repetition, mix things up: Try walking away a different distance in a different direction, but remaining in the room. First 2 steps backwards and pause 5 seconds before returning, then 4 steps to the side and a 15 second pause and so on. Work up to walking right to the exit or the wall and pausing for a full minute. Next, you will want to amp things up even more: Perform this exercise while you actively walk around the room, looking busy doing other things, but return to praise and treat your dog often. Tidy some magazines, rustle through a drawer, just look busy doing other things a few times in the house. Then, go even farther: Perform this exercise but back yourself up to the exit of the room and leave for just a couple of seconds before returning and heading to the crate to treat and praise. Do this a few times. The time this takes and the success you have will vary from puppy to puppy and dog to dog. Always stop at 10 repetitions max, and never more than two batches in quick succession followed by a big break. Otherwise your dog will get bored and the training is less effective. Now you just need to start increasing the time they are happy to spend time alone. Before you begin, something that goes a long way toward helping is to make sure your puppy or dog is well exercised before asking them into the crate. Why is that? A tired dog will be far more willing to relax and chill out for a length of time, compared to one who is full of energy and keen to play or wanting attention! After exercising them, the first step is to increase the time they are happy to spend in the crate while you are still nearby. To achieve this: Crate feeding: Feed your dog in the crate, or give them a stuffed Kong toy or good tasting bone chew toy. Hang out nearby: Ask your dog into the crate, give them their food or the toy, then close the door and take a seat nearby to read a book or a magazine. Engage occasionally: Every now and then, give them a further treat and praise, then go back to your book or magazine. Gradual build: Try to work up to a good half hour of quiet and calm in the crate while you read and they chew. Ignore them: After a couple of times like this, crate your dog or puppy with their meal or a stuffed toy and move around the room busying yourself, paying little attention to your dog. You want them to be eating their meal or chewing a toy in the locked crate while you do other things. Leave the room: After a couple of repetitions of this, repeat the exercise but move freely in and out of the room a few times, as well as occasionally sitting nearby. Disappear: Start by leaving the room for only 5 or 10 minutes, extending the time over a few sessions until you eventually achieve a full hour of alone time. As always, how long this takes will vary wildly from puppy to puppy and dog to dog. Go at their pace. It helps massively to succeed in this step if you only ever give your puppy or dog the bone chew toys or stuffed Kongs when in the crate and never outside of it. It builds excitement and anticipation, something to look forward to in the crate. Step 8: The Grand Finale! Wait for them to start chewing and then leave and come back into the room a couple of times. If they stay calm and pre-occupied with their chewing, simply leave the house. Then, do this: Go outside and walk to the bottom of your garden, just hang there for a few minutes and then go back inside and walk around your home for a couple of minutes before going to the crate and your dog. You want them to think that this is nothing, a complete non-event. And certainly do not go straight to them when you come back in. Remember: this even means nothing! From now on, practice alone time in the crate when you leave the house at least a couple of times every day, for varying lengths of time. Never make a fuss of any sort before you go, never make a fuss on your return. Over a few sessions, build up the time you are out of the house with your dog in the crate to a couple of hours as long as they are old enough to hold their bladder this long. You can now use the crate to keep your dog and your belongings safe when you cannot supervise them, and use the crate as a sleeping place for your dog at night. Always leave a few toys in there with your dog, and continue to repeat the exercise where you crate them with a stuffed Kong or chew toy if natural opportunities do not arise, just to keep them happy with the situation. If you have a dog that: Some puppies will take regular naps in the crate before you even start crate training. They might go on to show little interest or care about the door being closed. They might be super confident and happy right away with a little alone time. You might be able to crate train such a dog in just a few short days. Dogs like this can take many weeks to crate train: Some puppies may show fear of the crate and not want to go anywhere near it. Once carefully trained to go in, they might feel panic and fear when you close the door. You have to go at your own dogs pace because if you rush them you can instill dislike or even fear of the crate in their minds, and then it will take far longer than it ever should have. But many or most dogs will take to it quicker, and most puppies certainly will as they have no preconceived ideas, habits or emotions to overcome. When going through the steps above, if your dog excels at any stage you can quickly move to the next step. If they do not, if they show any fear or uncertainty, spend more time at a particular step until they are comfortable before moving on. Your dog will show you when they are ready to progress and you should go at their speed, however fast or slow that may be. They need to be able to: move around exercise their muscles enjoy some mental stimulation If they are regularly crated longer than this, behavioral problems will be the result, as well as the fact they have little in the way of a fulfilling life. In my experience this is a bit optimistic, all dogs are different and when a puppy is very young, this is certainly too long. This is with the exception of puppies from 8 to 12 weeks old who will need letting out once during the night. But after 12 weeks, they can last the whole night through. Crating your dog when you work full-time means two lots of 4 or more hours crated and this is a long time, so quality time, exercise and stimulation before and after crating is essential. Tips For Better Crate Training What follows are a few useful tips to keep in mind when crate training your puppy or dog. They will make the process easier and faster, while making sure your dog is comfortable and happy throughout the process: Always make sure you take your puppy or dog to their bathroom spot before you crate them for any length time. They will be uncomfortable and noisily complain with a full bladder…but rightfully so! Also take them the moment you let them out as they will usually be ready to go. Make sure the crate door is always open and your dog always has access to it so they can use it as and when they please. Most dogs will use it as a place to rest and this is a good thing. Always leave chew toys in the crate for your dog so there is something for them to do while crated. This will minimize boredom and teaches good habits of chewing on the right things. Continue to feed them their meals in the crate. Also, reserve special treats like bones and stuffed Kong toys for the crate only and never outside of it, so they really look forward to spending time there. Exercise your dog or puppy well before crating them for any length of time. A tired dog is one who is happy to relax and chill out. If you find your puppy nodding off and completely unable to stay awake this happens a lot! This will speed up their acceptance of the crate considerably if they snooze and find themselves waking up in there often. The worst thing you can do is force them in because chances are it will heighten their fear and make things even worse. Instead, break the task down into easier steps for your dog by employing some of the following tasks: Practice asking your dog to step in and out of cardboard boxes. First trimming the sides down to look like a small tray, then using further boxes and increasing height of the sides. Place bedding in the box and practice asking them to lay down. Some dogs may not like the roof aspect of the crate. Ask your dog to step underneath, even sit under there yourself and read a book while enticing them over for treats. Start with a big gap and a wide area covered, then lessen the gap between furniture in later training sessions to make it feel more crate like over time. If you have a plastic travel style crate airline crate then remove the top half and practice having them step in and out of the bottom half only. Start asking your dog to step into the bottom tray only. Then put on 2 of the walls for a couple of training sessions. Then three walls for a few sessions. Then the roof until finally the crate is fully assembled. Then cover the back third of the pens roof with a sheet and do the same. Then cover a half. Then remove a part of the pen to make the area smaller and ask them in to play with them. Whichever of the above you try, make sure an exit is wide open and easy for your dog to use for escape so they will feel less anxious. And take things very slowly, making sure they are visibly comfortable at any stage before taking a next step. After a few days maybe more of slowly getting them used to stepping into things that progressively get more and more crate like, you should be able to begin crate training. This type of reinforcement will not help the cries. Yes, you getting angry and telling your dog off will actually make the issue worse. This will train them to think that if they cry long and loud enough, you will eventually come and let them out. Not a good idea. Wait for 5 seconds silence before you approach, then give them a treat. You ruined it! Wait for at least 5 seconds of silence before you return, then treat them. Enough repetitions of this will teach them that silence gets rewarded and noise makes you go away. Why did they whine? You might want to go back a step or two in your crate training though. Make sure they are comfortably happy and silent in the crate, for a reasonable length of time with the door latched and you present, before you ever try to leave them alone. Young puppies cannot hold it through the night without having a potty break. But how do you know if the whines are because they need to eliminate or just crying for attention? For a puppy 8 to 9 weeks old, you will need to set an alarm to take them to potty twice during the night, at 2. For a puppy 9 to 12 weeks old, set an alarm to take them to potty half way through the night, 3. Make sure you do not feed them anything in the 3 hours before bed, take away water at least 2 hours before bed, and take them to their toilet spot to empty themselves as the very last thing you do before you go to bed. When you take them to potty, make sure you do so in silence. No playing, no words, no attention, otherwise they will learn that night-time is a time for play and attention. You obviously do not want this. They are very different things. But if when you leave your dog alone crated they show these symptoms: anxiety. Golden retriever crate training tips Goldens are known for their sweet demeanor and incredible gentleness, so they seem like perfect candidates for crate training. The only way to find out is to try crate training for yourself, but we hope we can give you some idea of what to expect. Image used with permission by copyright holder Are Golden Retrievers easy to crate train? This makes their motivation for training — including crate training — naturally high! Is crate training good for Golden Retrievers? No matter what breed of dog you have at home, crate training can have many benefits. Not only does it give you the ability to leave your pet alone without causing you anxiety, but it also allows your golden to have a safe space when they need some quiet time. Rarely, crate training your puppy can exacerbate existing problems. Crate training may not be a good idea for some dogs with medical issues, especially those that require frequent movement or bathroom trips. Image used with permission by copyright holder Golden retriever crate training tips If you do decide to try crate training your golden retriever puppy, keep a few things in mind. Start young It can help to start crate training when your golden is a puppy. The sooner going in their crate becomes a normal occurrence, the sooner your pup will learn to tolerate and even enjoy it. Make it comfy Another way to entice your young retriever to enjoy — or at least tolerate — using their new crate is by making it as comfortable as possible. If your dog has a favorite blanket, toy, or bed, this is the perfect place to keep it. Some owners even have a special toy or treat that their dog can only have while in their crate, which helps build positive associations and keeps your golden as happy as possible. In fact, encouraging your golden with a treat or some praise as they enter may inspire them to come back to their new spot. Remember, the crate should be a safe place for your pup, never a place where they feel nervous or unsafe. Start short When introducing your golden retriever puppy to their new crate, make sure to start with short, frequent introductions. This will help avoid unnecessary anxiety from feeling lonely, as well as any accidents inside the crate. As a rule of thumb, Wag! A tired dog is more likely to rest instead of worry, which will make the experience more peaceful for everyone. Perhaps a certain routine is most effective, or maybe your dog just needs some serious love and praise to motivate them. Editors' Recommendations.

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golden retriever puppies for sale new mexico - The range of amounts is based on the activity of your Golden for the day, either low, moderate, or high level of activity. Golden Retrievers should have scheduled times to eat daily. The scheduled times will help them with their energy levels and keep them healthy. You can schedule their eating times as to what works best for your schedule. For example, feeding them before you leave for work and then when you get home. As a puppy, they will eat three times a day, so you will need to find times in those first few months to feed them more often. When they are an adult or senior, the scheduling of feeding times will be easier because they will only eat twice daily. For a Golden Retriever puppy, the best feeding schedule is once in the morning, noontime, and in the evening. For example, you could feed their first meal at am, lunch at noon, then dinner at pm. Planning their mealtimes around your mealtimes will often make it easier for you and the puppy. Make sure to give them plenty of time after eating to got to the bathroom a couple of times before heading to bed. Hopefully, this will help them sleep for a longer period. After about six months, your Golden Retriever can go down to two daily feedings. This usually occurs once in the morning and once in the evening. They can usually last about 12 hours between meals. If it goes past 12 hours, they could become nauseated. Golden Retrievers can experience food allergies often caused from proteins in dairy or meat products. If your dog experiences symptoms such as vomiting, diarrhea, or itching they may have a food allergy. They warn that feeding dogs any raw animal-source protein could cause illness because it has not gone through a process to remove harmful pathogens. However, a raw diet can be healthy if you are willing to go through the extra cleaning processes of the meat. This is a lot of work and difficult to do correctly and safely. We do not recommend it without expert veterinary help. Before starting a raw diet with your Golden, be sure to consult a veterinarian. Find one that is familiar with raw foods and can help with the proper handling of the foods. If you work hard to make sure your homemade foods are rich in the vitamins and minerals that a dog needs, then it might work for your Golden Retriever. It takes a lot more time to find recipes and make sure it has all the nutritional value of a store-bought dog food. If you are willing to research expertly formulated recipes internet is making it easier to do this , and take the time to cook for your golden then go for it! Consulting your veterinarian is a must before starting any homemade diet. A veterinary nutritionist should also review your plan before starting. Feeding your Golden Retriever table food is not the best practice but a small amount of dog healthy table food is fine. Some example table foods that are healthy for them are carrots, blueberries and plain yogurt. Just be aware that feeding them too much table food can throw their entire diet out of whack. They may not be getting enough vitamins and minerals like they do from their dog food. Conclusion Making sure your Golden Retriever is getting the right foods at the right amounts will help them live their best life. There are many choices of foods with all the right ingredients. Be sure to choose one that works best for you and your Golden. Consult with your veterinarian on which food will bring the most nutritional value to the health of your Golden Retriever. If your Golden is experiencing any health issues related to changing foods, visit your veterinarian. If this article was helpful, please consider sharing this post on Facebook with the button below! She is board certified a specialist in canine reproduction. In her day job, she is a leader in a small biotech where she and a team of veterinarians and scientists work to develop new medications for pets. She enjoys sharing her knowledge of this wonderful breed of dogs. She and her husband have 2 children, 3 dogs and one cat. They love camping and hiking and she can often be found with her head in a good book. Recent Posts. Learn more » Congratulations on your new golden retriever puppy! You now have a beautiful, smart, and loyal dog who will love you for life. To make sure they grow into a healthy and happy companion, you need to feed them the right amount of food. At months old, which is usually when they are ready to leave their mother, a golden retriever puppy should be eating 3 cups of dog food divided into three meals per day. This is based on a typical large-breed puppy food. Different brands will give a feeding guide on their packaging. However, how much and how often to feed your golden retriever will keep changing during this time of rapid growth. Golden Retriever Puppy Feeding Timeline Image Credit: PxHere All puppies are different as are the foods, but some general guidelines for feeding your golden retriever during their first year are: 0—6 weeks: A golden retriever puppy can start eating solid food when they are 3—4 weeks old. Give them a total of 3 cups of dog food per day by their third month, 3 to 4 cups by the time they are 6 months old. The AKC recommends waiting until large breed puppies are at least 12 months old before switching them over to adult dog food and more likely 18 months. The amount will depend on their weight and activity level, but a rough guide is 1—2 cups per meal. Image Credit: Kinek00, Shutterstock Large breed puppies like golden retrievers should eat three to four small meals a day for the first 3—6 months of their lives. Smaller portions spread throughout the day are easier on their tummies and help prevent bloat, a serious condition that can be deadly for dogs. It also helps them maintain their energy level throughout the day. Puppy food has more calories and fat to support their growth, as well as extra vitamins and minerals for their developing immune and nervous systems and bones. The protein source matters, too. Puppies need animal-based proteins like chicken, beef, or lamb for their growing muscles. Choose a Large Breed Formula: Large breed puppies grow quickly, which means they need extra support for their bones and joints. Formulations for large breeds contain the correct calcium and phosphorus ratio for strong bones and glucosamine and chondroitin for healthy joints. They can help you choose the right food for your puppy based on their age, weight, and activity level. But puppies need to be fed on a schedule to prevent them from overeating and becoming overweight. How do you know if your puppy is getting enough to eat? After that, their growth will start to slow down. He Has a Healthy Appetite: A healthy puppy is interested in food and eager to eat. He Has Plenty of Energy: A well-fed puppy is full of energy and ready to play. Make the most of mealtime with these tips: 1. It also helps other aspects of puppy training, such as potty training and crate training. Image Credit: Alena Marchuk, Shutterstock This means leaving food out all day for them to graze on whenever they want. Leave food down for 10 minutes and then pick up what is not eaten. If they have not eaten anything, offer it again in an hour. Slow them down by scattering their kibble around the bowl, using a puzzle feeder or snuffle mat. This will help them learn to eat slowly and enjoy their food more. If your puppy is not drinking enough water for your liking, try adding a bit of broth to their bowl to make it more appealing and help them stay hydrated. Resist the Urge to Sneak Them Table Scraps Puppies are experts at giving those big, soulful eyes that make it hard to say no. But resist the temptation to give them table scraps or human food. Aside from teaching them bad manners, it can also lead to health problems, like obesity. A lot of human foods are not safe or healthy for dogs. For instance, garlic and onions are toxic to dogs. Oily food can upset their stomach, and carbs add a lot of calories. This helps them learn that mealtime is a specific time and place and not something that happens all over the house. Let Your Puppy Eat in Peace. This includes other pets in the house and small children who might want to bother them or try to steal their food. Otherwise, meals can become a stressful experience for your puppy instead of a happy one. Conclusion Feeding your golden retriever puppy the right amount of quality dog food will establish a strong foundation for their health and happiness. In addition, make mealtimes more meaningful by turning them into lessons and bonding moments between you and your dog. The puppy phase is over before you know it, so enjoy it while it lasts! Read the full disclosure here. Being a large and energetic dog, your golden retriever has a ravenous appetite and can eat a lot. However, overfeeding is never good and could be avoided with the help of a golden retriever feeding chart. Knowing how much to feed your golden retriever is always tricky but essential for their well-being and health. Goldens are prone to obesity and joint problems, which can only be exacerbated with an inadequate feeding plan. So, stay with me to find the right feeding plan and meal schedule for your goldie. Most first-time owners think their puppies should be chubby. In truth, golden retriever puppies are supposed to look lanky and act like they are always hungry when fed the correct amount of food. To encourage proper growth and development without making your pup obese, you will have to know how much to feed a golden retriever puppy. For example, cheaper foods use fillers and have a smaller amount of calories, thus you will have to feed more than you would when using premium large breed puppy foods. We may earn money or products from the companies mentioned in this post. We all want our golden retriever puppies to be healthy and happy. We envision them running through a verdant field chasing a ball. Full of energy with the beautiful, lustrous golden coat. But, just like us, eating the proper food in the proper amounts will help your golden properly grow and thrive. After all, what we eat impacts how healthy we are. How much you should feed your golden retriever puppy will vary depending on the quality of food you feed, his age, his weight, his general health, and his activity level. Your golden will be growing for up to two years. And the amount of food during that time will have to be adjusted depending on his needs. Because most people feed kibble to their pup, this article will focus on that. Kibble is convenient and cost effective. Instead, they should be lanky and full of energy. They should love to eat their food with gusto. Instead, you should be able to feel his ribs when you pet him there. There should just be a thin coating of fat under his skin. And he should have a defined waistline. Of course you should check with your veterinarian to make such adjustments. And remember a young puppy should get only so much exercise a day. Their joints and bones are developing and can be damaged if the exercise is too extreme. Assuming you have an eight-week-old puppy, he should receive three to four meals a day. From eight weeks old until about five or six months old, three meals per day are advisable. Of course, feed at the same intervals every day and split the total amount per day in half to be given at each feeding. After about six months of age through adulthood, two feedings per day are the norm. Always check with your vet regarding how much and how often to feed. These are just guidelines. Feed him at the same distraction-free location so that he focuses on eating. As much as goldens love to eat, a young golden puppy is also very easily distracted. This can lead to possible health problems, including joint and bone problems. Goldens can easily become overweight. Free feeding can also lead to a picky eater. Some puppies figure out that if their buffets are always there, and they can just go graze at will. Most foods you purchase will have guidelines on their bag or box. When you first get your puppy, feed him the same food that the breeder or rescue fed him for a few weeks. Then, if you want to change his food, do so over at least 10 days. Add more of the new food and subtract more of the old food each day. After about five days, you should be giving him approximately 50 percent of the new food and 50 percent of the old food. Switching food over such a period of time will help prevent stomach upsets and diarrhea. Overfeeding will result not only in him becoming overweight but it will also make him grow too fast. Periodically—even weekly— test whether you can still feel his ribs without them protruding. You can then increase the amount he eats. You should also feed his last meal of the day at least 90 minutes before his bed time so that he can digest his food and potty before bed. A well-balanced, high-quality food should provide all the nutrients he requires. Golden puppies require a formula made for large-breed dogs. Puppy formulas for large-breed dogs regulate their growth. Eating too quickly can lead to digestive upsets and even bloat, which can be deadly. I rescued my golden retriever Riley when he was about six months old. To say that he ate as if it were his last meal would be an understatement. He had a voracious appetite. I bought one of the maze bowls to slow him down. The kibble is placed between each section of the bowl, and he had to forage for his food. It worked! He ate at a more normal pace. Of course, dogs should be given free access to fresh water. Other Feeding Options Although I concentrated in this article on feeding kibble to your new puppy, there are other options. There are some drawbacks to them because they may not be nutritionally complete, may be cost prohibitive, or may be too time-consuming to make. Wet Food Canned food alone or mixed with kibble is an option. But wet food alone is very expensive. He may become a picky eater. Feeding raw is controversial. Dehydrated raw foods reduce some of the risks. The ratio of calcium to phosphorous is crucial to puppy development. Homemade Diet Cooking for your best friend can be very appealing. And many people do. You know what ingredients and their quality are. But it has its drawbacks. Of course, the amount you feed is important for his growth rate and general health and well-being. But there is no one-size-fits-all in determining how much to feed a golden retriever puppy. Any amounts you see are just guidelines. Adjust them as necessary regarding your own special puppy. Do you have a golden retriever puppy? How did you determine what and how much to feed him? Please leave your comments in the section below. Helps ease anxiety in their new home. We love using Bully Sticks to help divert these unwanted behaviors. Check out more of our favorites on our New Puppy Checklist. Debbie has been training dogs for over 24 years and has nationally ranked obedience and rally dogs, agility dogs, trick dogs, and therapy dogs. Post navigation. They are famously loving and playful family pets, always eager to jump in the pool or snuggle up with you on the lounge. They are patient and energetic dogs who are easy to train, making them excellent service animals as well as loyal companions. If you are bringing a Goldie into your family, you might also be aware of their reputation as food lovers. Your Goldie might want to eat anything and everything you put in their bowl — and maybe even anything left on an unattended plate. In this Golden Retriever feeding guide, Hypro Premium will take you through everything you need to know when it comes to food options for your pup. The best food for most young puppies is milk. If you are weaning a puppy, you can start to mix in a little dry kibble with their puppy milk to create a paste. You can feed this mix to your puppy up to four times a day, slowly reducing the amount of milk you mix in. Over time, your Goldie puppy will get more comfortable with solid foods, until you no longer need to include any milk in their diet. While chubby little puppies are cute, your Goldie should not build up too much excess fat once you start feeding them solids. Goldies go from a small 4kg puppy at 7 weeks old to an almost 30 kg adult dog in the space of only 10 months. At six months old your puppy will still be growing, but more slowly as they reach most of their body development milestones. This is why appropriate feeding in the first year of their life is vital to the overall health of your Goldie for years to come. Over time this can increase to up to 4 cups a day at 10 months old, though females should usually only need 3 cups a day. The amount you feed your puppy is often dependent on their size and sex. While they may have some growing left to do, it depends on your dog. Some Goldies will continue to experience growth spurts before their second birthday, while others will stay the same size. Large breeds can be at risk of growing too fast, which can make them more vulnerable to skeletal and weight problems when they get older. Golden retrievers are especially prone to hip and elbow dysplasia, which can be avoided through diet control. You should feed your Goldie between 3 — 4 cups of food per day over two meals. Adult dogs and puppies have different nutritional needs. This is important to take into consideration as you are establishing a feeding schedule for a Golden Retriever puppy. Puppies require more calories to support their rapid growth than adult dogs, but they also have much smaller stomachs, which means they get fuller faster. Because of this, puppies can easily overeat, especially Golden Retrievers. You can help your puppy avoid overeating by allowing them a short amount of time to eat, and then removing their bowl. All puppies grow a lot during their first year, but large breed puppies are more likely to suffer from negative health consequences as a result. In order to provide your Golden Retriever puppy with the most appropriate food to support their rapid growth, consider choosing a large breed puppy food. Goldie puppies need lots of protein, fibre, and fatty acids to support the development of their bodies and provide them with energy. These foods also take into account the difference in nutrient digestion between small and large breeds. Too much of these nutrients can cause your large breed puppy to develop skeletal abnormalities. So how much do you feed a Golden Retriever? Your adult Goldie could need anywhere between and 1, calories per day. The amount of food you feed your dog will be determined by a few important factors. The first thing to consider is the sex of your dog. On average, your male Golden Retriever will need slightly more food than a female dog. Senior dogs will usually be less active and so will need less food. Goldies in particular can have a lot of variation in the amount of food they need on a daily basis. No matter how much you feed your dog, it is ideal that you feed your adult Golden Retriever two meals a day at evenly spaced time intervals. Feeding your dog twice, once in the morning and again in the evening, can be useful for establishing a routine and avoiding overfeeding. This routine can also include exercise, and is useful for encouraging healthy behaviour around food and toilet training. Special Considerations Your Golden Retriever could be predisposed to several health conditions that are important to consider when you make decisions about their diet. Firstly, Golden Retrievers are known for their beautiful coats, but their skin can often become infected. Goldies love swimming, but this can cause problems if water irritates their skin. They can also be susceptible to atopic dermatitis, which causes extreme itchiness, resulting in licking and biting behaviours in dogs that can cause even more damage. For dogs prone to skin and coat issues, a fish-based diet can help alleviate symptoms. Fish contains plenty of fatty acids, which support coat and skin health, and rarely triggers any allergic reaction in dogs. Goldies often benefit from healthy grains in their diet, especially as avoiding them can actually leave your dog more vulnerable to nutritional dilated cardiomyopathy, or nutritional DCM. This heart disease is common in Golden Retrievers, and can be triggered by consuming too much grain-free pet food that contains legumes like lentils and peas. You should consider feeding your Golden Retriever foods that are full of grains and proteins like chicken or fish. These are the benefits and drawbacks of the three most popular options — wet food, a raw food diet, and dry food. Wet food can be a great option for dogs that need plenty of protein and fat, like working dogs or dogs with certain health conditions. It also hydrates your dog while they eat, which can be useful for dogs suffering from any illness. For dogs with highly restrictive diets, raw food prepared by you can be a great way to avoid allergens. You can have complete control over a raw diet, which does require a lot more work on your part, but can have great results. For instance, a Golden Retriever with heart issues should eat a low salt diet, which can be easier to achieve if you are preparing their meals from scratch. However, low quality kibbles tend to be made up of a lot of low quality fillers, which can be hard for your pup to digest. Whatever option you choose for your Goldie, make sure it is suitable for large breeds and contains high quality ingredients. This will help prevent degenerative health disorders in the long run. Your Golden Retriever will probably love food, and will probably try to eat anything you put in front of them, which means you need to help them avoid the negative consequences of overeating. Golden retrievers, like other large and active breeds, need plenty of exercise. Not only is this vital to their physical health, but it also ensures they grow up well socialised and mentally stimulated. As your Goldie grows from a puppy to an adult dog, the amount of meals they need a day will reduce as their digestive systems become more developed. Your dog will need two meals a day, once in the evening and once in the morning, from the age of 6 months. There is also info on how to keep your puppy and your adult at his or her optimum weight. Scroll down to find growth charts to make sure your puppy is growing at the proper rate and is within the right weight range for his age. If you are looking for information on what to feed, go to How to Choose a Dog Food. Unlike with human children, a puppy that is overfed will grow too fast before they grow too fat. A good example is where a smaller puppy at 10 weeks was overfed and his growth was compared to a puppy that was correctly fed. The growth of your puppy needs to be controlled. General Guidelines for Puppies Below are some general guidelines on how much to feed puppies. Most dog food bags suggest feeding too much. Increase to about 3 cups a day by 5 months for boys and by 6 months for girls. Golden Retrievers at this age are supposed to look lanky and all Golden Retrievers act like they are starving when fed the correct amount. If left to eat as much as they want, they will all grow too fast. In the wild, dogs do not have unlimited access to eat as much as they want. They work for their food. Caloric Needs Greatly Decrease at About a Year When puppies reach about months, their caloric needs begin to decrease. Some males might need 4 cups if active and are fed a less expensive food. Make sure you take into consideration the number of extra calories being fed as treats. You should be able to feel their ribs, but not see them even when the dog is wet. If you can see the ribs, increase their food. Decrease the food if you cannot feel them. I always tell people that it is better to underfeed than to overfeed, especially when feeding puppies. Weight Range Charts Following are charts of how puppies should generally grow in weight. Keep in mind that very few puppies need to be at the top of these ranges and if you cannot feel ribs, your dog is overweight even if she is in this weight range. If your dog is still a puppy and she is over these weight ranges, you are feeding her too much. Female Golden Retriever Weight Chart Here is a chart of how girls should generally grow in weight: 2 Months — pounds.

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golden retriever puppies for sale new mexico - There are multiple possible combinations in the canine world. The coat color your pup ends up with depends on the mix of dominant and recessive genes that they receive from both parent dogs and how these genes interact. Golden Retriever Colors According to American Kennel Club standards, Golden Retrievers come in three distinct shades: dark golden, golden and light golden. Their coats are a single color all over with no apparent markings. Poodle Colors Poodles , on the other hand, can come in ten different solid colors: apricot, black, blue, brown, cream, gray, red, silver, silver beige, and white. Poodles also bring patterns into the mix. See Also: Click the image The Science Bit Without going into too much detail, the coat color of every single dog on the planet is a product of two main pigments: eumelanin responsible for shades of black and pheomelanin which covers shades of red and yellow. The genes that a dog gets determines how much of each of these are produced, as well as how they might be diluted or mixed with white the complete absence of pigment. For more details on how this all plays out, check out this handy description by VCA Hospitals. Each puppy inherits one set of color genes known as alleles from their mother dog and one set from their father dog — so they end up with two in total. This all depends on whether the alleles are dominant or recessive, and some are more or less dominant than others. Predicting Goldendoodle Colors So, to get back to Goldendoodles…. The Poodle colors are more likely to come through. To be golden, the puppy would need to inherit two recessive golden alleles — one from each parent. The puppy will most likely be a similar color to their Poodle parent. Yet this obviously only applies to first-generation Goldendoodles. With later-generation dogs, things get even more complicated as there are more Poodle genes to contend with. For instance, you may feel confident that with two black dogs you will get black puppies, right? After all, black is dominant. Well, as covered above, dogs inherit two alleles, and even though the dominant one is expressed, a recessive one could be passed along to their offspring. If both parents have recessive golden color alleles and both pass these along, then you could very well end up with a golden puppy from two black parents! What we can do is take an educated guess based on what we know and what we have observed about how the genes that determine coat color interact. Breeders may also opt to have their dogs tested to see which alleles they carry. This can make any coat-color guestimations that much more accurate. All in all, with those crazy, varied Poodle genes, Goldendoodles can come in pretty much every color that a Poodle comes in — and weirdly more besides. Unlike with Poodles, pedigree standards do not govern the breeding of Doodles. So, we are starting to see an array of mixes and patterns, many of which we have detailed below. Their coloring is typically the result of a mutation in the gene that would otherwise produce a black coat. These mutated genes are recessive, so the puppy would need to inherit one from each parent to end up this color. While chocolate Goldendoodles are often born quite dark — sometimes even black, they tend to fade a fair bit as they age. This process can begin as early as six weeks and will be most noticeable at this time on their muzzle and between their paw pads. Apricot Goldendoodles A variation on red, an apricot coat is one of the most sought-after for a Goldendoodle. It gives pups the appearance of a cute teddy bear even more so than their hair and adorable features already do. However, as this color is created by a recessive gene, the puppy must inherit it from both parents. Photo used with permission. Credit: Taurean DuHart Photo used with permission. Credit: doodlikekylo This coat color typically starts off a little darker and lightens over time. Depending on the interplay of genes, it can lighten quite considerably. For this reason, apricot Goldies may sometimes be confused with cream or tan ones. They will almost always have black eyes, eye rims, noses, and toenails, all inherited from the Poodle. Cream Goldendoodles Again, from the red line, cream Goldendoodles are frequently confused with white ones because of how light their coat can get — but they are very definitely not the same. These dogs are often used for breeding dogs with multi-colored coats, such as merle or parti Goldendoodles covered later. Credit: Murphywestslopedoodle Cream Goldies inherit their colors from both parents — a touch of gold to a little white. This is one of the reasons that they have the most extensive variation of coat tones and points with either dark or pinkish noses and paw pads, and light or dark eyes. Champagne Goldendoodles are so named for the yellowish tinge to their light, beautiful coats. These dogs have a recessive red gene that is diluted into this stunning pale yellow tone. Credit: Pattie Martin In some cases, it might be a little tricky to tell the difference between a cream Goldie and a champagne one. Champagnes tend to have a touch more color. Puppies may be born with a darker golden coat which lightens as they age. Secondly, the gene that creates a black coat is recessive, meaning that black coats are only likely in second and third-generation dogs. Finally, the Poodle fading gene can be quite active in these pups, silvering them down to grey, blue, or, naturally, silver once they are past their puppy years. Credit: sweetpupneo Black and White Goldendoodles While most black Goldendoodles are a single color, occasionally, you will also come across ones with white markings. In some cases, white may even be the more dominant color with just a touch of black. As with other parti and patterned coats, black and white Goldies are most often found in later generations. Black and white Doodles may also be referred to as tuxedo, parti, merle, phantom, and brindle. Gray Goldendoodles Not surprisingly, Gray is derived from the black line and inherited from the Poodle side of the Golden Retriever-Poodle combination. This is another rare shade in these types of dogs and only really occurs with multigenerational breeding. These Goldies are usually born very dark in color and start to show as gray after around six weeks. By the time these dogs hit two years of age, they will have faded into their adult hue. However, color holding can occur around the face and ears giving a cute two-tone effect. Blue Goldendoodles At first glance, blue Goldendoodles can look very similar to gray ones. However, they are generally a darker, more steely shade, and their coat can have both darker and lighter patches. This color is super rare, being recessive. It takes multiple generations of Goldendoodle breeding to achieve. Like gray Doods, blues are born dark and fade out across the first two years of their lives. Their coats may even continue to clear as they age, but a select few will remain truly blue. Again this color is tricky to predict. You never really know what you are going to get when you adopt a black Goldie. Silver Goldendoodles A lighter version of blue or gray Goldies, silvers are also born a much darker color and just keep on fading. You might see signs that a pup will be silver from somewhere around six to ten weeks, where you can start to spot lighter roots. You will likely also find white or silver hairs between their toes. The shift from black to silver is probably the most dramatic of any of the Doodle coat changes. Your pup will look like an entirely different dog when it is done. For this reason silvers are often mistaken for grays early on in life. Silver Beige Goldendoodles Unlike regular silvers, silver beige Goldendoodles are born dark brown. However, just like regular silvers, they lighten as they age. The lighter the final color, the earlier the puppy will start clearing — anywhere between six to twelve weeks. Silver beiges can sometimes be mistaken for sables as they start to fade. The combination of colors in their coat gives this effect. Tan Goldendoodles Tan Goldies get their coloring from their Retriever parent. Just as with apricot and cream dogs, tan occurs because of a dilution in the red pigment pheomelanin. This color sits somewhere between these other two more popular and more common ones. Often these dogs have shades of light apricot, cream, and white mixed in with their coat. Although from a distance, they do appear a single uniform shade. White Goldendoodles Although they look distinctly white from a distance compared with their warmer-toned cream counterparts , white Doods are often not white all over. They have various shades of cream mixed in throughout their coat. Unlike cream, white is not the result of fading, so white puppies will actually be born white and retain this color all through their lives. While these dogs look either brown or black at birth, even at this early time, the root of the hair is much lighter than the tip. Sable Goldendoodles tend to hold onto their dark color around the face and ears. The rest of their coat settles into more of a cream or tan shade, although always with darker tips and lighter roots. This makes for a really unique-looking dog! Abstract Goldendoodles Dogs with abstract coats are mostly one single color be it any of the ones outlined above with touches of another color. These are usually found on their face and around their chest and paws. Such dogs are also referred to as mismarked or chrome. Phantom Goldendoodles Super hard-to-find phantom Goldendoodles comprise two colors — a base shade solid chocolate or solid black and a lighter one. The lighter points are usually to be found around the eyes, muzzle, and legs. Most Phantom Goldendoodles are commonly black and tan, but this can vary, e. Parti Goldendoodles Dogs with parti coats are two distinct colors, with the second one usually being white. To be considered a parti rather than an abstract Doodle, the pup needs to have a color breakdown rather than simply a few highlights. You can find parti hounds in every color covered above, but no two look the same. As mentioned above, the parti gene is a recessive one, and so the Goldie would need two for them to be expressed. However, there are plenty of parti Poodles about. Tuxedo Goldendoodles Tuxedo Goldendoodles are another two-color mix. Any of the above colors are combined with white. However, the white is concentrated around the chest and front legs. This gives the pup the appearance of wearing a tuxedo hence the name. As you can imagine, these pooches are pretty popular because of their distinctive appearance — especially when in black and white. Their markings are apparent from birth. Although, naturally, the white splotches often begin small and get more prominent as the dog matures. Merle Goldendoodles Merle Goldendoodles are another extremely uncommon type. Watercolor merles, which are harder to find, also have tickings, but their coat lightens with age. Merle coats are tricky for breeders to work with as the gene that causes this pattern is also linked to health issues such as deafness and blindness. So careful breeding by someone very knowledgeable about canine genetics is needed. This unique pattern of dark and light coat is arranged in such a way as to make the dog look like it has tiger stripes. While the width and color of these stripes vary from dog to dog, in Goldendoodles, it usually takes the form of a black or brown base coat with lighter colored stripes. Tri-Colored Goldendoodles With the increasing amount of multigenerational Goldies, color options are becoming ever more varied. However, it is very usual in other types like Bernedoodles from the Bernese Mountain Dog. They usually have a little of another breed in them — one that does carry the tri-color gene. To date, no research has demonstrated a link between color and behavior. Rumors that say differently can actually be quite harmful. For instance, some people equate black dogs with higher aggression levels. This is simply not true. On the other hand, there are a few studies that link specific colors with certain health conditions. For instance, the merle gene as outlined above can lead to certain conditions such as deafness and blindness. These days, most breeders focus on breeding extremely healthy puppies over ones of a particular color or pattern type. The parent dogs are thoroughly tested for genetic conditions that they otherwise might pass down to their puppies. In all honesty, with no coat color being better than any other in terms of health and behavior, your choice of Goldendoodle should be based on health and temperament over looks. However, naturally, people have different preferences about these things. So, once you have ascertained that the puppies you are checking out are all good, you can choose the one that looks best to you. Usually, the intensity is reduced, and black dogs switch to gray or silver while red ones dull down to apricot or cream. The apricot Goldendoodle is the most popular color choice, with cream being second and red in third place. More popular colors usually translate into more expensive. Will my Goldendoodle change color? Most Goldendoodles are born with dark coat colors that change, fade, or silver to a lighter color with age, depending on their inherited genes. This is known as clearing and generally occurs within the first two years. The muzzles and ears of a Goldendoodle tend to hold more of the original colors as other parts change. What color Goldendoodle is best? There is no specific color of Goldendoodle that is best. The one that you opt for will be based on what you like. While red tones are pretty popular among the Doodle-fan crowd, some opt for dogs with rarer colors like black, blue, and silver. Others want different and distinct patterns that only come with multigenerational breeding. While color is one of the first things people notice about puppies, it should be one of the least important factors to base an adoption decision on. When purchasing a puppy, you want to ensure that they are healthy and have the right temperament — family-friendly, active, playful, etc. Only then should you start to consider color. No matter which Goldendoodle you decide is right for you, it will no doubt be love at first sight. Not just because of their adorable appearance, but because they make excellent, loving companions. You will never regret your choice to adopt one. What color of Goldendoodle is your favorite? Let us know in the comments below! Kennel club recognition is quite an arduous process and is often only available to purebreds. Poodle Standard colors: apricot, black, blue, brown, cream, gray, red, silver, silver beige, and white. As you probably noticed, Golden Retrievers only come in three colors. This section discusses all 13 Goldendoodle colors for proper identification, including some of their charming pictures. Chocolate Image credit: the. You probably come across one in your neighborhood as you take your morning walk. They got their rich brown color from their dominant Poodle genes, but some of them experience silvering as they mature. Chocolate or brown dogs may become silver beige depending on their genes. The chocolate color in Goldendoodles is recessive , so you need two Goldendoodles that are either pure chocolate or have the chocolate gene in their lines to produce a chocolate Goldendoodle. Among all the colors listed here, apricot is probably the most sought-after because they resemble teddy bears. This is a trait they got from their Poodle parent, who also comes in the same tone. Apricot is also the last registered Poodle color. They are considered the brightest type because their coat simply stands out. This may fade into a lighter shade when they mature. They are often thought to be white Goldendoodles because they are very light in color. Creams have the largest variation when it comes to coat tones and points, so it is possible to see one with dark eyes, nose, and toenails and another with lighter features. Some are even pinkish under their coat. Champagne Champagne Goldendoodles exist, albeit rare. They possess a recessive red gene, which is also diluted to create a pale yellow to a cream tone. The rarity of these dogs makes them quite pricey, but they are still one to consider if you want a teddy-looking dog. However, their eyes, nose, and paw pads remain pure black. There are instances where white is more dominant, but those who are primarily black also exist. Contrary to what most people believe, not all black and white Goldendoodles should be called tuxedo because it pertains to a specific coat pattern. This will be focused on once the tuxedo coat pattern is discussed. When they reach two years old, their gray coloration even lightens to rustic silver, and there will be no more signs that they were once almost black. These dogs are very rare and are only achieved through multiple generations of breeding Goldendoodles. They also have blue noses and paw pads. Their hairs resemble that of an aged man, so you can easily identify them among others. Most silver Goldendoodles show signs that they are indeed silver as they reach 6 to 10 weeks. The tone of their coat has varying degrees, from dark to light silver. Silver Beige Image credit: wheresguthrie. They are originally born chocolate, but because of certain genes, their color cleared, and they become silver beige. What creates the effect that they are sables is the combination of silver to gray hairs and the beige coloration. Some parts of their body appear cream-colored, and this is expected from this variety. Aside from their impressive set of colors, Goldendoodles are even more unique because of their coat patterns. Usually, novice pet owners confuse this with certain coat diseases, but this is typical for this hybrid. The base coat may be one of the 13 basic colors discussed earlier. Usually, these are found on their face, chest, and paws. Often, two colors make up their coat: one is the base, and the second is a lighter shade. There is an exact location for the lighter points — above the eyes, along the sides of the muzzle, across the chest, along the legs, and under the tail. Most Goldendoodles with this coat pattern are developed through multi-generational breeding. This is why parti pups will have distinct appearances from each other. This creates the impression that they are wearing a tuxedo. Classic merle pups usually have some blue or chocolate patchwork or tickings on their body. Meanwhile, watercolor merles which are harder to come across, also have some tickings on their coat. They are distinct from the former because their coat lightens as they age. Most of them have light-base hairs, which makes their stripes stand out. The most popular color for Goldendoodles is also the last color to be recognized for Poodles — apricot. The fame it gained as the latest color for the breed is also reflected in its cross between the Golden Retrievers and Poodles. This is followed by cream and red. Sables are also in demand even though they are not of the same level as the three shades mentioned above. Since these colors are desired by many, expect that they are a bit more expensive than their other cousins. Despite being common and easy to breed, these black pups are not highly sought after. What Is the Rarest Goldendoodle Color? The rarest Goldendoodle colors are those that can only be achieved through multi-generational breeding. This means that in order to produce these dogs, you have to breed together puppies beyond f2 or second generations. These are gray, blue, and silver. Apart from these colors, two patterns are found to be rare. They are the phantom and parti Goldendoodle. Similar to the gray, blue, and silver dogs, they can only be achieved through multi-generational breeding. The color of every dog is a product of its two main pigments, eumelanin and pheomelanin. Eumelanin is black in default, but it also produces certain diluted colors due to the genes inherited by the dog. The second pigment, which is pheomelanin, is primarily red, but it can become apricot, cream, tan, and other similar shades when altered by dilution genes. For a breeder to produce a certain Goldendoodle color, the parents must undergo DNA testing to determine whether they can produce the desired color for the litter. Some others carry a recessive gene that makes them exhibit a very different color from their parents. There are some myths that aim to taint the reputation of some varieties but have no scientific basis. For instance, the assumption that black Goldendoodles are aggressive simply because they are black colored. Make sure to look for pertinent data first before becoming influenced by mere opinions on the color and the breed of dogs. In fact, a friend of mine who has two male Goldendoodles of different colors, a blue three-year-old, and an apricot 2-year-old, has observed that the two have very similar temperaments. Both are affectionate and love being with him all the time. But if we are to consider the study of the University of Sydney, which investigated the life expectancy of dogs according to their colors, chocolate Goldendoodles may be prone to ear infections and various skin diseases. Merles are also observed to be predisposed to deafness, blindness, skin sensitivity, and skin cancer, especially when the two parents used to breed the puppy both carry the merle gene. These are extreme issues, so you better consider this in buying your pet. As is with other crosses and purebreds, Goldendoodles also experience subtle color changes as they mature. This phenomenon is brought about by their Poodle lineage. Mostly, red and its varieties lighten when they reach two years of age. But other colors may also undergo lightening through a process called silvering or dilution. This is more prevalent in black and chocolate puppies who turn out blue, silver, or silver beige, depending on their genes. However, this may not be true for all Goldendoodle puppies. Some may not have any genes that will lighten their colors and will retain their rich color all the way to adulthood. It gives Goldendoodles the appearance of a cute teddy bear. It is a common color to find among breeders since Apricot Poodles are recognized by the AKC as an official breed. Apricot coats typically grow lighter over time and may sometimes be confused with cream or tan Goldendoodles. These Goldendoodles will almost always have black eyes, eye rims, noses, and toenails inherited from the Poodle breed. Cream Goldendoodles are commonly used to breed multi-colored coats, such as merle or parti Goldendoodles. The physical features of cream Goldendoodles can vary greatly. Some have lighter attributes, while others have slightly darker noses or eyes. It is highly unlikely that you will find cream Goldendoodles with the same physical features. However, most cream Goldendoodles will have pinkish skin under their coat. Red Goldendoodle Like apricot-colored coats, red Goldendoodles also have a teddy bear look because of their color. The mahogany color is the most vibrant of the various coat colors. It is usually achieved by breeding a poodle carrying a darker coat with a yellow Golden Retriever. It is one of the most popular colors for Goldendoodle coats and is somewhat common among breeders. The red coat does lighten over time as your Goldendoodle puppy grows. Another popular coat for Goldendoodles is brown. Many brown Goldendoodles may also carry a recessive silver or black gene, so they may produce puppies of various colors or patterns. It is one of the more common Goldendoodle coat colors. A Chocolate Goldendoodle is a brown Goldendoodle without lighter markings. Tan Goldendoodle A tan Goldendoodle adult chilling in a backyard Tan Goldendoodles are not as popular as other light-colored coats. This breed is a combination of the cream and apricot Goldendoodle. Their fur often has shades of light apricot and white, which come from the Golden Retriever dog breed. If you want a tan Goldendoodle, you may want to find a reputable producer that breeds apricot and cream Goldendoodles to find this variety. Black Goldendoodle This Black Goldendoodle puppy is having a rest! Like brown Goldendoodles, black Goldendoodles also inherit their dark coat from their Poodle parent. It is not as sought after compared to the apricot or cream-colored coat. If they inherit curly fur, this breed could be mistaken for a regular Poodle. Black Goldendoodles are a unique variety, and finding this type of color is rare. The black coat will often stay dark unless they carry the recessive gray, silver, or blue gene. Then the color will lighten as they grow older. Their physical attributes, like their paws, noses, and eyes, will almost always be black. As puppies, their coats first appear black but will lighten as they grow to a full coat of blue, silver, or gray. As they age expect some white markings. If you have a gray Goldendoodle grey Goldendoodle for our Aussie and UK readers check our our mega list of actually good gray dog names! Sometimes known as the Tuxedo Goldendoodle, this type usually has a black coat with a white nose and chest. It also carries a streak of white on its head. However, Tuxedo Goldendoodles usually have slightly different markings, such as white hind legs, belly, and bib, with black extending down its back. It gives the impression that your Goldendoodle is wearing a tuxedo. You can achieve the black and white variety by breeding a parti Poodle with a Golden Retriever. However, it is very rare to find this type of Goldendoodle. Sable Goldendoodle One of the most unique Goldendoodle coats is sable. Their coat is dominantly a tan or lighter cream with the tips remaining black. As puppies, sable Goldendoodles are dark brown or black, but their puppy coat lightens as it grows out. However, those dark tips do not fade with time. Patterned Goldendoodle Colors In addition to the solid colors of the Goldendoodle, this breed can come with rare patterned and multi-colored coats. These coats are not always predictable before they are born or even when they are puppies. The rare varieties will also cost as much as three times more than a more common Goldendoodle. Below are some of the various color options that are rarer for Goldendoodles. Parti Goldendoodle coats happen when the recessive genes of the coat override the solid color. Rare recessive genes, therefore, need to be combined with other rare recessive genes. This variety is very difficult to predict before they are born. Parti Goldendoodles often come from multiple Goldendoodle generations with strong Poodle genes. Merle Goldendoodle Merle Goldendoodles are rare because their coat has patterns with random marks. Unlike Partis, merle Goldendoodles have dominant genes that override the solid color. Chocolate or blue Merles are born when the gene is carried by a chocolate or black Goldendoodle. Sometimes people refer to them as watercolor merle coats or chocolate merle. Merle Goldendoodles are sometimes manufactured when a Goldendoodle is bred with a Border Collie or Australian Shepherd , technically making them an Aussiedoodle. However, there are serious health considerations when breeding merle Goldendoodles. If you breed two merle Goldendoodles, their puppies may be born with deformities or be blind or deaf. To be considered a phantom breed, the Goldendoodle needs to have a primary color covering the majority of its body and a secondary color appearing on its eyes, muzzle, and lower parts of its legs. They are always born with those markings, so it is easy to tell right away if it is a phantom Goldendoodle. The color combinations may vary, but the most common is black and tan. Their coat is very rare, and two phantom Goldendoodles will seldom have the same look. Conclusion Though the AKC does not recognize the colors of the Goldendoodle, the three Golden Retriever colors and seven Poodle colors create thousands of coat color possibilities. Extensive DNA tests are the only way to get an exact picture of how the puppies will look. Look for a reputable breeder and choose the color that you like best. If you are looking for a specific Goldendoodle color, you may need to ask several different breeders and take a look at the parents and their litter. Wavy coat Goldendoodles are typically low shedding. FAQ Here are the answers to some of the most pressing questions about Goldendoodle colors. What is the most popular color for Goldendoodles? The most popular color is apricot for Goldendoodle coats followed by cream. Red coats come in third. Sable is also a highly sought-after color for Goldendoodles. What color is best for Goldendoodles? There is no best color for Goldendoodles as it all depends on your personal preference. Whichever color you choose, make sure that it is one you and your family can enjoy. However, even these darker colors may change if the dog carries the blue, silver, or gray recessive gene. My wife and I love playing with our active miniature Labradoodle Max. We want all Oodle puppies to be healthy and happy, have lots of fun and be part of the family. Load More. The main traits people find attractive about the Goldendoodles are the low shedding, hypo-allergenic coat, coat color varieties, and the adorable ragamuffin look of this breed. According to the American Kennel Club, the Golden Retriever has three standard colors: dark, golden, and light. There might be more we have yet to discover, but we will keep this article updated as we find more. Below, we look at different Goldendoodles colors with pictures and the differences in each. We also discuss what makes each color unique and so recognizable. Your Goldendoodle coat type will depend on the kind of curl gene they inherit from each parent. If you are curious to know what coat type and color coat your Goldendoodle puppy will have, you can perform an at-home DNA test to find out. Curly coats are the most popular coats in Goldendoodles and are seen more frequently in F1B and F3 breedings. These types of coats are considered to be the most non-shedding kind. A characteristic trait, if you will, of this hybrid breed. They tend to have more shedding than Goldendoodles, who carry furnishings, and they look more like Golden Retrievers. To ensure you have a proper coated Goldendoodle, you need to DNA test the parents or puppy before getting one. If you have a family with allergies, a Goldendoodle with an incorrect coat is not the best match for you. Long hair is a recessive trait, which means that for a dog to be long-coated, the FGF5 gene needs to be inherited from both parents. The Goldendoodle coat should be about 2 to 3 inches in length. Coat Color Changes In Goldendoodles Dogs of any age, gender, or breed can experience pigment changes in their skin and coat. Generally, puppies will change color as they mature, especially light and medium color Goldendoodle coats. The exceptions are black and darker brown Goldendoodles. However, these can still change to grey, silver, or blue if they carry the recessive gene. Goldendoodle coat changes pictures. Typically, the final coat color of a Goldenpoodle will settle and stay when they reach 4 to 6 months of age. That is when puppies lose their puppy coats, according to the AKC. Did you know feeding the wrong diet kibble to Goldendoodles can dramatically affect their coat, skin and health, and overall health? Chapter 2 All Goldendoodle colors in pictures Goldendoodle Colors Here is a compilation of the most popular, not-so-popular and rarest Goldendoodle colors. Brown Goldendoodle. Black For even more variety, there are patterns of these colors found in the Goldendoodle, including parti, merle, phantom, and brindle. Merle is a varied coat pattern. While a beautiful color, the merle gene can cause blindness and deafness if two parents carrying the merle gene are bred together, so merles should be bred only by very knowledgeable breeders who test for the merle gene and understand the genetics involved. Brindle patterns appear as stripes, the color and the width vary with each dog. With careful breeding, breeders can now produce litters with predictable coat types and shedding propensities. One of the things that many people find attractive about the Goldendoodle is the low shedding and hypo-allergenic qualities of the coat, and the adorable ragamuffin look of the Goldendoodle. No longer do you need to rely on the generation of a Goldendoodle to determine appearance or shedding intensity! This is why some Labradoodles have short coats in the early generations, whereas Goldendoodles do not. Curl KRT71 gene Goldendoodles can be curly, wavy, or straight. They inherit their number of curl genes from their parents. If a breeder tests the parent dogs for the curl gene, they can better predict the appearance of their puppies. Even more interestingly, genetic technology has taught us that furnishings are what confer the low- to non-shedding coats on our Goldendoodles that help make them such optimal family dogs. Based on Mendelian genetics, this educated guess was often just that—a guess about the odds. This is when the use of notations like F1 and F1b came about and what has caused many people to think they need to know the generation to guess about furnishings. In the recent past, new commercially available tests have been developed that allow us to genetically test our parent dogs for furnishing genes and other coat genes as well, such as curl so we can better predict coat type in puppies. This is much, much more accurate and dependable than the old Mendelian filial F1, F1b, etc. The gene responsible for furnishings is dominant; so by testing the parent dogs DNA, it can be determined if a breed pair will produce puppies that all have furnishings, or if there will be some puppies with an incorrect or Golden Retriever like coat. Dogs with one copy of the furnishings gene Ff or F IC are lower shedding than dogs without furnishings. Dogs with two copies of furnishing genes FF are typically non-shedding. If you have a family with allergies, a Goldendoodle with an incorrect coat is not the best match for you. Coat variation in the domestic dog is governed by variants in three genes. J Hered. The Shedding gene is still relevant for shedding for NON-furnished dogs short facial hair , but have no impact for shedding for our furnished Goldendoodles. Even a Goldendoodle with two furnishings genes does not guarantee that you will not be allergic to a particular dog. Allergies are very complex and shedding is just one of the components that factor in the equation. Consider that dander, saliva, proteins, and allergens carried on the dogs coat, etc. As you can see, there is a lot of science that goes into the selection of breeding mates to produce the ideal Goldendoodle. The Goldendoodle Association supports its Member breeders by providing access to the latest research and guidance from experts in fields such as breed development, canine reproduction, and puppy development. This is a widget ready area. Add some and they will appear here. For all other questions: Email: admin goldendoodleassociation. Your membership helps to fund research and development regarding health, genetics, puppy development, and more. Member Application.