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This will ensure that the puppy comes from healthy parents and has been raised properly. How would you know which is the right breeder? There are many lists of good and trusted breeders online that you can check. Alternatively, you can look at dog breeder reviews in your area. After that, once you get in contact with a breeder, you should make sure that they are upfront and honest with you. And of course — always ask for a health certificate! What about adopting a bulldog from a shelter? Still, well-run shelters and rescues often provide health certificates and adequate health info. They also take good care of their animals. It should go without saying that young pups are full of energy but a lot of new bulldog owners get surprised by that. What does that mean? In fact, bulldog puppies are a lot of fun! However, you should be mindful of that before getting your bulldog puppy. The dogs from this breed are very loyal and defensive of their family Most dog breeds are known as loyal and loving toward their families but this goes doubly for bulldogs. This makes them an incredibly dependable breed — unless you mistreat it, your bulldog will always be by your side and will always be willing to help you out. Bulldogs often need to be taught not to bark. Because they feel the need to protect you, bulldogs often have the urge to bark not just at strangers but even just at outside noises. This can be annoying not just for you but for your neighbors too. Bulldogs can be a little jumpy. This is as much out of fear as it is due to their instinct to react to anything that might threaten their family. But while it is incredibly cute, it also leads to certain problems. Breeds with such flat noses are called brachycephalic dogs. With pretty much all of them, this unique facial structure is due to the way they were bred over the years. And with all of them, it has two negative side-effects: The potential respiratory health problems we mentioned above. Lots of snoring! Sure, the latter sounds much less problematic than the former. And it is! But the extra loud snoring and snorting are still important to keep in mind Why? This breed is extremely social and requires near-constant human presence A common misconception is that all dog breeds are social. Sure, all dogs are more social than cats but there are still dog breeds that are much more individualistic than others. Bulldogs always want to be near you, they always love sleeping on you, they love getting pets and belly rubs, and they adore any type of attention and pleasant physical interaction. Is there a downside to this, however? Unfortunately, yes. This hyper-social mentality of bulldogs makes them ill-suited for people who spend lots of time out of the house. Instead, bulldogs are best-suited for people who work from home. Get your bulldog a second canine buddy. A bored dog is a dog that takes out its frustration on your couch. Fortunately, bulldogs are not one of those breeds. Instead, all they need is a bit of running, a bit of ball play, and the rest can be hugs and petting on the couch. If you make the mistake of overplaying or overworking your bulldog there may be some unfortunate health consequences such as overheating, hyperventilating, or a stroke. In short bulldogs are lazy dogs for lazy people. Or, at least adult bulldogs are that way — as we said, bulldog puppies can be quite energetic before they grow up. Be mindful of overheating your bulldog Going on from the previous point, bulldogs are really easy to accidentally overheat. And not just with excessive physical exercise either. Instead, a bulldog can get overheated due to many different reasons: Stress. And also, you want to know what to look for when buying an English Bulldog? There are some obvious questions and some not so obvious you should ask the breeder before buying. Generally, expect to pay somewhere in-between for a well-bred puppy from a renowned and respectable breeder. The fees for a new puppy is not all profiteering by the breeder, though. There are expensive testing procedures they must pay for, such as progesterone testing. When faced with the high cost of buying a new puppy, some think it makes sense to buy a cheaper dog. The puppies are a more affordable price for a reason, which is usually slipshod breeding methods. When this happens, the new owner will pay thousands more in vet bills because of ongoing health issues. They have a list of Bulldog breeders they recommend. One primary requirement is the health testing of breeding dogs. Even pet stores are not the place to buy a quality bred puppy. You are perpetuating an industry that thrives on the unhappiness and pain of defenseless animals. If you see an offer to fly an English Bulldog puppy to your area of the country, refuse to buy. English Bulldogs are brachycephalic flat-faced , and even if the breeder can find an airline that still allows these dogs on board, the dog might not survive. Some of the common problems with English Bulldogs are breathing difficulties, hip dysplasia, skin allergies, and cherry eye. Even the best quality Bulldogs can suffer from any of these ailments. But even though the health issues are minor, they will add to the cost of owning a Bulldog. What you need to avoid are any serious underlying health problems. You can avoid them by buying your puppy from a reputable breeder. These breeders do everything in their power to produce the best quality and healthiest Bulldog puppies. They care about their dogs and their reputation. They will offer you a health guarantee. Generally, the breeder allows for the puppy to be seen by your vet. If your vet finds anything serious, the breeder should offer a refund or a replacement puppy, depending on what you both agreed. A good breeder will always question prospective new parents to make sure they will be suitable for their puppies. Most breeders you come across will only sell their puppies if they are spayed or neutered when they reach the correct age. Generally, breeders are not enthusiastic about the selling dogs for breeding or showing. If they are, expect to pay a lot more money. What Color Do You Want? All white is trendy, but they can also be brindle or red. Be aware that black or blue is not part of the Bulldog breed standard. If you are lucky enough to get a pick of the litter, which should you choose? From our experience, we like puppies that show confidence and curiosity. Try to contain your enthusiasm and wait for a puppy to notice and pay attention to you. Many people say they picked an individual puppy because they instantly connected with the puppy they chose. But always lookout for the one that notices you. Cherry eye is a problem with the breed. Inside the mouth: Look for an elongated soft palate; if there is, avoid the puppy. Breathing: Because they are brachycephalic, Bulldogs will always labor a little with their breathing. Make sure this is not excessive in any of the puppies. Lethargic: A puppy can be sleepy, but when he wakes up, he should be lively. If the puppy seems overly tired and sluggish, he has a problem. Walking and playing: The puppy should walk correctly, does not appear wobbly on his feet or dizzy. He should be aware of his surroundings. Puppy nose: Look for Stenotic Nares in the puppy. These are narrow, pinched nostrils that will create significant breathing difficulties later on. Conclusion Adopting a puppy is a joyous occasion for all the family. We hope this article on what to look for when buying an English Bulldog has given you some guidelines which will help you along the way. Further reading. A lot of people make the mistake of buying an English Bulldog without doing much research, only to later discover that these dogs have a lot of special needs. In this guide, I will lead you through all you need to know before buying an English Bulldog, and also what to look for, particularly with the breeder. What should I know before buying an English Bulldog? Although English Bulldogs are known to be sweet, loyal, and very people-centered, they are also prone to a host of health problems. This is the most important aspect of all… you need to be prepared for the potential for high vet bills. These specific needs can make them time-consuming and expensive dogs to keep. Unfortunately, far too many English Bulldogs end up abandoned once they develop costly health problems. As a result of decades of breeding to ensure a flat nose and stout figure and those famous wrinkles , English Bulldogs are unfortunately prone to a few genetic disorders. These include hip dysplasia, brachycephalic syndrome, and ventricular septal defect, where a hole develops in the heart. However, many of the other conditions that plague this breed are avoidable with a little foresight and care. As they are a brachycephalic flat-faced breed, they find it harder to breathe than other dogs. This is especially true in summer when they are prone to heat exhaustion. Additionally, they are also predisposed to a multitude of skin conditions. If the folds around their face are not kept clean, it can cause bacteria growth that can result in irritation and even infection if left for too long. With that said, these are charming and loyal dogs. Full of personality and affection, they make perfect family pets and ideal companions for the right owners. This next step will depend on whether you want to adopt an adult English Bulldog or a puppy. Each choice has its advantages and disadvantages, so it depends on which one will suit your lifestyle better. Buying English Bulldog puppies Aside from the cuteness overload, arguably the best advantage when it comes to buying an English Bulldog puppy is that you can train them early on to fit in with your lifestyle. However, if you have the time, experience, and patience to get through those initial months of training, you will have the opportunity to build an excellent bond with your new pup. Buying a puppy can present a lot of challenges, but providing you know what to look for, it will be a rewarding experience! By ensuring that they are getting adequate training from day one, you can help them to avoid bad behaviors. In a similar vein, by making sure they are getting the right healthcare early on, you can ensure that they avoid any unnecessary health complications. Buying an English Bulldog puppy from a reputable breeder also means that you can be sure about their heritage. English Bulldogs are not cheap from the get-go, but as puppies, they will require plenty of trips to the vet for all their initial check-ups and vaccinations. Buying an adult English Bulldog Buying an English Bulldog who is fully grown means that there will be fewer surprises. On the downside, any bad habits they have developed will be firmly ingrained. Buying an adult English Bulldog who has already been trained can be a lot easier. The only challenge here is that it may take some time to find the right dog to fit your needs. On the flip side, there are also plenty of adult English Bulldogs looking for a home who have behavioral issues. Although some of these issues are minor and may only need remedial training to correct, there is also the risk of encountering more severe behavioral problems. A dog who displays fearful or aggressive behavior may take years of training to correct and is not a task for an inexperienced owner. The only danger here is that you may not be adopting a purebred dog. Aside from this, there are also dedicated rescues just for English Bulldogs. How to buy an English Bulldog Arguably the most crucial step you can take when choosing to adopt an English Bulldog puppy is to ensure that you are going through a reputable breeder. An honest and dedicated breeder will always put in the time and effort to ensure that any puppies they are raising are as healthy as they can be. The puppies should be socialized from a young age, and the breeder should have no issue with you coming to visit the kennels. This is where you do not want to hunt for a bargain. English Bulldogs are expensive to breed, owing to the unique complications and special needs involved with this practice. Although you could go for a cheaper puppy, you risk adopting a dog with severe health issues. As a general rule of thumb, a cheaper dog can end up costing you far more in the long run. Also, many good breeders should be able to provide you with a bill of clean health before you adopt, and they should offer you a guarantee. Once you adopt, they should give you at least two days so that you can get your new puppy checked out by your own veterinarian. If you find any unexpected health issues within this period, the breeder should be willing to offer you a refund or to replace your puppy. What to look for when buying an English Bulldog puppy Once you have settled on a reputable breeder, now comes the best bit: picking out your new puppy including what to look for when buying an English Bulldog. For one, you need to ensure you pick the happiest and friendliest puppy in the pack. If the puppy is curious and shows confidence when approaching you, that is an excellent sign. Instead, enter the enclosure where the puppies are kept, and sit down to observe them. As hard as it can be, resist the urge to reach out for any of them, and instead allow them to come to you. Doing this also allows you to observe their behavior. The puppy that you pick should be friendly, easy-going, and well natured. Other signs to keep an eye out for include: Clean eyes and ears: The puppy should not be squinting. Red eyes in particular can be a sign of a serious problem. Look for a straight tail that shows no restriction while moving: Additionally, the tail should not be pointing down. These can all be an indication of screw-tail — a malformation of the vertebra in the tail. This condition can result in severe discomfort for the dog, and expensive treatment later on down the line. See how often you should walk your English Bulldog. Where you can, avoid puppies with abnormal coloring: This type of coloration includes chocolate, black, blue, and lilac. All of these colours are clear indicators that the puppy may develop severe health issues as it grows older. Decide on a male or female puppy: In general terms, males tend to be more energetic, whereas females can be more relaxed. Be cautious if the price is too cheap. An unusually low price could be the sign of an unhealthy English Bulldog puppy. That said, by keeping an eye out for some of these signs, you are more likely to be adopting the healthiest puppy that you can. English Bulldogs only have 3 to 4 puppies in a litter and only should be bred a handful of times over their lifetime. Questions to ask an English Bulldog breeder Before you settle on buying an English Bulldog and have ticked off all the things you should look for, please, please, please question the breeder extensively. Ask how many litters the mother has had: an English Bulldog should only really have 1 litter a year, preferably only one every couple of years. More than that is a warning sign that she has been bred more than she should have been. Make sure your breeder is knowledgeable: on looking after his breed. Also Google the breeder first to see what other people have said about them. Ask if the puppy has been assessed by a vet: You also want to be sure the puppy has had the right vaccinations. Injections should be sorted out by the breeder before the puppies are available to buy. By doing so you can see what the puppy might grow up to be like and whether the mother is healthy. Ask if the parents have had health checks: This will also help you decide whether the puppy will grow up healthy with no genetic traits. Things to look out for on the health check include hip problems, cataracts, cherry eye, deafness, and soft palate problems. The best breeders will be transparent and honest. Ask how old the parents are: A mother younger than 3 years old ca present a problem as health problems might not yet have appeared yet. Try to buy an English Bulldog puppy whose mother is older than this age. Ask where the puppies have been living:You want to buy an English Bulldog puppy who has been socialized a little. Ask how often the puppies have been handled: Puppies that are handled from a young age will also be easier to train. Conclusion Regardless of these issues and health concerns, English Bulldogs are beautiful and sweet companions. They are full of personality and will be sure to make you laugh with their confidence and quirkiness. However, they do require a lot of care and attention… and any potential problems can be reduced providing you know what questions to ask and what to look out for when buying an English Bulldog puppy or adult dog. I write about the things we've learned about owning dogs, the adventures we have, and any advice and tips we've picked up along the way. Recent Posts. Contact Us Buying A Bulldog The Definitive Guide English bulldogs are the mascots of choice for many colleges, organizations, and even military branches. Bulldogs are mostly docile and well-behaved, choosing sleep over other popular canine activities. For those looking to purchase a bulldog, there are several considerations that must be made beforehand. Below are some tips on how to shop and buy a Bulldog puppy, what to look for in a breeder, and what to consider when purchasing a dog. What should I expect to pay for a puppy and how do I choose a reputable breeder? Many are surprised to find out that bulldogs are an expensive breed. In fact, quality puppies will set you back anywhere from two to four thousand dollars. But, there is a reason for this. Bulldogs are the result of specific and selective breeding process especially when it comes to champion dogs and bulldogs that represent the breed well. There are huge expenses for the breeder as well such as progesterone testing, stud fees, c-sections, milk formula, vaccinations, de-wormings, puppy checkups, special diets, whelping gear, etc. Choosing a dog because of a smaller price tag could cost you more in the long-run. You should search for a reputable English bulldog breeder. But where to start? One of these requirements is health testing. This way at least you know that you are dealing with Breeders who are conscientious about producing healthy puppies. Do not look to purchase puppies through Craigslist, Social Media Sites, Pet Stores or the Walmart parking lot yes, I have seen them for sale in parking lots! Breeders who sell thru these venues are generally profiting and are not truly dedicated to the breed. These puppies are often poorly bred which results in an unhealthy puppy. A reputable breeder will be available to you for the long haul and eager to help with any questions or concerns throughout your bulldogs life. Look for breeders who can provide you with a complete pedigree of your dog, a health guarantee, and a bill of sale. Finally, never have a bulldog shipped to you. Since they are brachycephalic flat-faced , they are less likely to survive the shipping process compared to other breeds. What should I know about Bulldog health and Cost? You should know beforehand bulldogs can have minor but common health concerns, including cherry eye and skin allergies and require excellent veterinary care so before buying a puppy make sure to have the puppy checked out by a Vet. A reputable and responsible breeder will have a clear and transparent health guarantee listed on their website and give you hours to get the pup examined at your own vet just in case there are any costly or life-threatening conditions outside the minor issues common to bulldogs that can be easily treated. Check to see if they will replace the puppy; refund you in the event something is untreatable. Caring for a female dog in heat is messy and time consuming, and male dogs with their testicles intact tend to be more headstrong and have more of a tendency to lift their legs and mount yours than neutered males. Finally, decide on appearance. White bulldogs resembling the University of Georgia mascot are very popular, but the breed standard also allows for dogs to be brindle or red. Black or blue colors however, are not part of the breed standard. The English bulldog is a great breed, but be sure to know what to look for in a breeder and in a puppy before purchasing. Finally, if a puppy is not your thing, there are many bulldog rescues throughout the country that can provide you with an adult dog. Whatever method you employ, remember to take your time, do your research, and always opt for quality over cost. For detailed information or to have a question answered by a breeder click here. Since then they have been dedicated to responsible Bulldog breeding and passionate about breeding as well as competitively showing English bulldogs. This mid-size breed is 16 to 17 inches tall at the base of the neck. Males are about 54 pounds and females 50 pounds. Adult dogs are prone to becoming overweight. Bullies have thick necks, short faces, and heavy wrinkles that need frequent cleaning. A bulldog coat is straight and short and sheds a moderate amount. The bully has low grooming requirements. The standard colors for bulldogs are fawn, red, white, or brindle tiger-stripe. They can also have 2 piebald or 3 tri-colored colors. English bulldogs are laidback and only need 20 to 40 minutes of exercise per day. But they are physically unable to swim. The bulldog is people-orientated and needs a moderate amount of attention. Bulldogs are brachycephalic flat-faced and do not do well in hot weather. They tend to overheat and have breathing difficulties. Still interested in owning an English bulldog? Due to potentially serious health risks, reputable breeders have a significant investment in each puppy. You can find bully pups online and in pet stores. They are usually more affordable but also poorly bred. These dogs typically end up costing their owners thousands more in vet bills due to ongoing health issues. Buying English bulldogs through these venues also keeps in existence an industry that thrives on the unhappiness and pain of defenseless animals. A breeder must follow stringent guidelines before the BCA will endorse them. When picking a reliable breeder, it is essential to know their reputation. How long have they been in business? Are the dogs allowed to mature before breeding? Is the breeder comfortable with you visiting their facilities? A reputable breeder should come across as open and honest and welcome your visit. Preferably, the parents will be together, and the animals can go outside to play. Check if the puppy has been socialized with cats and children as well as with other dogs. You should not buy an English Bulldog puppy if they offer to fly it to you. Are they healthy and friendly toward other animals and each other? What do they look like? Those adorable puppies are likely to grow up to look like and act like one of their parents. Meet the Puppies Of course, you are going to fall in love. Puppies are adorable! But step back a moment and make sure you pick the right puppy. Study the puppies to avoid obvious health issues. Here is a list of what to look for when buying an English bulldog puppy. If the puppy is five to six weeks old, she should walk and breathe normally. Rasping, rattling, or wheezing is a red flag. Is the puppy happy and friendly? His tail should be straight and move easily — not restricted or pointing down. The puppy should not need to squint when looking at you. Is the dog deaf? White or predominately white bulldogs are prone to deafness. The puppy should be aware of his surroundings and be lively, not sluggish or overly tired. If elongated, the soft palate can cause issues. Be cautious about selecting the runt of the litter as they may have more health issues. Temperament Is the puppy friendly? Did she come to you? Look for signs that the pup is fearful. Is he whimpering, crying, or urinating due to fear? Check for aggression or rebellion. How does the puppy act if restrained for 30 seconds? Will she follow you? Will the pup let you carry him? You want your puppy to be confident, curious, easy-going, and good-natured. Gender Male or female? Many believe a female bulldog is easier to train, and the males are less emotional. Every dog has its own personality, so judge the pups by their temperament. Body Type All bulldogs have slightly different body shapes. Observing the parents should give you a good idea of how large your dog will grow and its body type. Perhaps its head will be a bit larger or its legs a bit shorter. Color English bulldogs come in eight standard colors. The piebald 2 colors and tri-color bullies combine these colors. Brindle tiger-stripe — is a striped pattern with a different colored base. Fawn red — ranges from a pale tan to deep deer-red. White — a popular choice that may be pure white or have a few freckles in another color. Lilac — rare color variation, the purplish-gray color is a mix of blue and brown hues. Black — a rarer color, the shiny black coat may have a fawn undercoat. Blue — the coat will appear gray in the sun or against darker-colored objects. Chocolate — another rare color. A deep, rich brown. Seal — very rare. These dogs have light-colored eyes and a reddish or brownish cast to their coats. Their legs and tail will be darker than the rest of their coats, and they will have a dark stripe down their backs. Some experts suggest that bulldogs that are black, blue, lilac, chocolate, or seal color could have more health problems than the brindle, fawn red , and white dogs. The Breeder Should Question You A reputable breeder cares for his dogs and wants them to have a good forever home. It is usual for them to question you on your suitability as a dog owner. They will not be enthusiastic about selling dogs for breeding or showing, so you will pay a premium if that is your intention. A good breeder will not hand over the puppy until it is eight weeks to three months old. Before eight weeks, puppies need their mothers for health, developmental, and weaning reasons. Separating them from their mothers too soon can lead to health and behavioral problems. With another month, the bully pup learns a lot and is less miserable to leave his dam. Expect to sign an agreement with the breeder that you will have your pup spayed or neutered when they reach the correct age. Medical Records and Certification Every dog breed has some health issues, and even the best quality bulldogs can suffer from many ailments. Minimize the potential for underlying severe health issues by purchasing from a reputable breeder. Breeders with quality dogs care about their reputations and work hard to produce healthy puppies. The breeder can provide those records. A puppy with a historical bloodline of purebreds and champions shows that the line still meets the original bulldog standards and should have fewer health issues.
I am familiar with common and uncommon health problems they may face so when my boyfriend and I decided we were ready to adopt our own english puppy finding a reputable breeder that prioritizes health was most important to us. Erica and Mitch of Bruiser Bulldogs are just that. They are experienced, ethical and quality breeders. I was referred to them by my friend that I trust after I saw their gorgeous healthy puppy. Our Puppy Primrose is the light of our lives! Bruisers was there to assist us every step of the way. We would highly recommend Bruisers Bulldogs to anyone looking for their own happy, healthy pup! Leah H. We were lucky to have come across Bruiser Bulldogs and even more so the fact that they were near our family and hometown made it even better. We have had Clementine Callie for four months now, and she is a wonderful dog. Her personality is amazing, and I think part of it is breeding and the other part is Erika and her family lovingly raising the puppies in their home with plenty of attention and snuggles. I also was impressed that, rather than send the puppies out right at 8 weeks, Erika kept ours for a few extra weeks because she was tiny and not read to leave her mom yet. It's that care that differentiates Bruisers from other breeders. Emily R. Erica was easy to work with thru the entire process from application to adopting and now beyond as we host our new family member, Chief. Her on-call support and willingness to provide open, honest advice to all of our questions and concerns continues to be appreciated. We would highly recommend Bruiser Bulldogs to anyone looking for an English Bulldog to join their family. Elizabeth W. Lady L. They are experienced, responsive and knowledgeable about all things bulldog related. They went above and beyond for us and are truly dedicated to all of their pups! We love our little girl so much and would recommend Bruiser to anyone looking for a healthy beautiful bully. Jonathan E. Erica and Mitch are trustworthy, excellent communicators, fair, passionate, and produce the best bulldogs. We were at the top of the waiting list for months and Erica reached out every litter to see if we were finally ready for a bulldog. When we were, she was very easy to work with. Her knowledge on bulldogs is outstanding. We had many questions on the process and she always knew what was best for the puppy. We've had Penny formerly Blair for two months and she is very healthy, energetic, playful, and sweet. She is great with other people and dogs. We are so happy with our pup. When we are ready for bulldog 2, we will only consider Bruiser Bulldogs. Mitch C. Bowser was born April and is an integral part of our family. When we were first exploring English Bulldog breeders our biggest concern was the overall health of the dogs. We decided to work with Erica at Bruiser Bulldogs because we liked their focus on improving the breeds breathing abilities and the fact that the puppies are raised within her family environment before coming home with their new owners. Bowser also breaths clearly and our vet was impressed with his overall health from the moment we brought him home. All that said we know English Bulldogs have a predisposition to many health issues and that his current health can not predict the future. With that In mind its important to start with a breeder that open to answer any of your questions as Erica has ours, and that strongly believes in improving the breeds overall health profile. Adam B. My sister ended up finding Bruiser Bulldogs and we knew right away that they were the breeder for us. In September we ended up driving 9 hours to pick up two Bruiser bulldog puppies- one for my husband and I and one for my mom. Jackson and Penelope have been nothing but a joy. They are both very athletic and healthy. They are also HUGE snugglers and always want to be with you. It is an absolute pleasure having these two bullies in our lives! Erica is very knowledgeable about the breed. She is very hands on throughout the process and is just overall a kind and honest person to work with. With all that being said I cannot recommend Bruiser Bulldogs enough! Collyn C. One of the reasons we chose Bruiser Bulldogs was due to the claims about breeding for health. During our first visit at our vet's office, he told us that our pup was one of the healthiest English bulldogs he had ever seen. He is healthy, happy and social. Would recommend to anyone. Christina S. We seen our dog on their website and sent them an Email. Mitch called us and personally walked us through the process and made sure we had the right dog for our family. We couldn't be happier when we picked up our dog Ramsey, Erica made sure we had everything we needed and then some. They are truly amazing people who breed truly amazing dogs! Jim T. Free Bulldog Puppy Starter Kit! Working with top genetics, we focus on both Structure, and Temperament once we isolate the best Black Frenchie Puppy Genes there is. Working with top dogs is only part of what we do. Black Frenchy puppies for sale A classic and beautiful dog, the black frenchie puppy for sale, or Black French bulldog puppy for sale is stunning. Overlooked from time to time with new and exciting colors on the rise, we still covet the original beauty offered by the Black French Bulldog. Black Frenchies for sale No matter the color, all of our French bulldogs for sale , come with our full health guarantee. All of our Frenchies for sale breed stock is genetic health tested 4 panel clear! No matter which French bulldog puppies for sale you purchase, all come with the same guarantee. Check out all of our website information pertaining to black Frenchies for sale. .We sometimes will have pure black french bulldog puppies but most often we have black and tan French bulldog puppies. Both solid and tan pointed colors are beautiful but there is just something about the tan points! In comparison, a black and tan frenchie has more detail then a plan black french bulldog. If you are considering finding a black frenchie consider the black and tan frenchie puppy as well. Shopping for a fluffy black and tan french bulldog is also an option. Black French bulldog puppies Reserve an Elon pup today and experience one of his amazing offspring! Elon can make Blues, blues and tans, Isabella, Isabella and tan, New Shade isabella, Lilac, Lilac and tan, fluffies, creams, basically everything under the rainbow with AMAZING compact structure, big heads, with both intelligence and temperament to boot! We breed for shorter bodies and legs, not long legged giraffes. We are proud that all of our Frenchie puppies for sale are raised in our home with our children, under foot. Every single French Bulldog puppy are well socialized and you can expect a playful, smart, inquisitive and loving professional Snuggle Bug. Available Puppies Notification List. Me What is a Black French Bulldog? While the breed standard for French Bulldogs allows for several different coat colors and patterns, black is a popular color for this breed. Black Frenchies are quite easy to recognize as they possess no traces of other colors. What we mean by that is that they have a solid black coat color with no brindle pattern; sometimes they have a white patch on their chest giving them a unique look. Black French Bulldogs are a highly sought-after breed and they are relatively rare. In general, French Bulldogs come in a range of colors, including brindle, fawn, cream, and white. However, the solid black coat color is a recessive trait and can only be passed down if both parents carry the gene for it. As a result, Black French Bulldogs are not as common as other colors, which adds to their appeal and value. Because Black French Bulldogs are rare, they can be more expensive than other colors. A Black French Bulldog can make a wonderful and loyal companion for years to come, and their unique appearance and personality make them a valuable addition to any household. You should have your own Black Frenchie. Here is why! Black French Bulldogs are a popular breed of dog that has become increasingly popular over the years, and for good reason. They are a wonderful addition to any household, offering a range of benefits that make them the perfect pet for anyone who loves dogs. Here are some reasons why you should get a Black French Bulldog: Black French Bulldogs have a solid black coat color that makes them stand out from other dog breeds. Friendly and affectionate French Bulldogs are known for their friendly and affectionate personalities, and Black Frenchies are no exception. They are great with children and other animals, making them the perfect family pet. Low maintenance French Bulldogs have short, smooth coat that requires minimal grooming, which makes them a low-maintenance breed. Playful and energetic Despite their small size, French Bulldogs are known for their energy and playful personalities. Adaptable Black French Bulldogs can adapt to a variety of living situations, from apartments to larger homes, as long as they receive enough attention, exercise, and mental stimulation. This makes them a great option for those who are looking for a companion that can keep up with their lifestyle. Overall, a Black French Bulldog is a wonderful addition to any household. With their unique appearance, friendly personality, and low-maintenance needs, they are sure to bring joy and love into your life for years to come. It's important to purchase from a reputable breeder who can provide you with a health guarantee and ensure that the dog has been bred and raised in a responsible manner. Do Black French Bulldogs Shed? Black French Bulldogs, like any other Frenchie tend to shed throughout the year, more so in the spring and fall. During this period, they change their coat almost completely, replacing it with shinier, brighter and nicer fur. It's important to brush your puppy's hair at least two or three times a week using a Furminator. That will remove the undercoat that has fallen out but is still in the hair. We provide Health Guarantee TomKings Frenchies are bred from an award-winning bloodline to ensure the healthiest and most authentic gene pool. Before the breeding program was established, all parent dogs underwent a rigorous selection and examination process. We feed our adult dogs and puppies only the highest quality food and supplements to maintain their immaculate health, and they are checked by our veterinarian on a weekly basis. Our purebred French bulldogs come with a TomKings Health Guarantee that covers all genetic illnesses. Kennel-free living Our Frenchies are not raised in kennels but instead live in a loving family home with a large green garden. We believe that proper development, including strong musculature, a healthy immune system, and good manners, cannot be achieved in crowded spaces. As family members, our Frenchies are free to roam in our spacious garden and rest in our home. We ensure that our Frenchie puppies have ample opportunity to play and we teach them good manners around other dogs and people, including children. We provide love and professional care At TomKings, our puppies receive 12 weeks of both maternal love and professional care. This extended period of time spent with their mother and siblings fosters the development of a healthy dog personality and a well-balanced nature. Prior to joining their new families in the USA and beyond, our Frenchies receive all necessary puppy vaccinations, as well as deworming and parasite treatment. We also begin their potty training at an early age, making it easier for new owners to house-train their little angels. At BigBullDogs. We offer the best service for purchasing the perfect bulldog puppies, and we have quality studs that have set us apart as the top breeders for bulldogs. Whatever it is that you need regarding these beautiful bullies, this is the right place for you. Here are the varieties we have; What You Need to Know About English Bulldogs English Bulldogs are very distinct from the other breeds of bulldogs and are the more prevalent breed. These sturdy, muscular dogs have a cute waddle walk that directly results from their short, stubby legs. The English bulldog also has a flat-looking face, dark and low set eyes, massive and broad jaws, and fleshy cheeks and lips that give it that signature pouty and droopy look. Its short neck, thick shoulders, and barrelled chest, slightly arched back make it one breed that you can easily identify anywhere. Our standard Male English bulldogs are inches and weigh an average of 50 pounds, while the Female English bulldogs weigh about 40 pounds. All our English bulldogs have the finest textured coats and healthiest skin with a variety of colour patterns. Whether you pick a male English bulldog or female English bulldog from us, you can be assured of their wonderful demeanor and gentle disposition. The AKC recognizes over dog breeds and rated the Bulldog as 2 for the best family dog breed. They are incredible family dogs but not the best watch dogs these days. The last nine decades of domestication has turned them into couch potatoes, considerably different from their original genetic breeding that made them perfect for Bull Baiting. Nevertheless they are fantastic at lying on the couch and giving you the stink eye when you disturb their rest. Quick Guide to French Bulldogs French bulldogs were named for their origin story, which says that they were a breed of English toy bulldogs and several unidentified dog breeds. They have distinct features that make them stand out against their English counterparts, such as their pointy, bat ears. French bulldogs are small, cute dogs that are very playful and perfect for being a home pet. Regardless of whether you pick the male french bulldogs or the female French bulldogs , you get a pet that is calm, attentive, attention-loving, and a partner to you and your kids. The male french bulldog is an estimated 12 inches in height and 25 pounds in weight. On the other hand, the female french bulldog is about 11 inches and 20 pounds. The male french bulldogs are usually a bit more muscular than females and have larger heads. However both are equally affectionate and super family oriented. Not to be outdone by their British Bulldog cousin, the female french bulldogs also made the Top 10 Best Family Dog breeds list in .Looking to Adopt Bulldogs?
Females: pounds. Height Males: inches. Females: inches. These dogs were renowned for their size, power, strength, and tenacity, and their modern-day descendants Mastiffs and Bulldogs continue in that tradition. Eventually, the reputation of the Molossian dogs preceded the breed. Hopner, Elard Konig, and Friedrich Robert—decided to develop these dogs into their own separate breed. In , the first Boxer exhibition dog show was held in Munich, and the following year, the first Boxer breed club was established: the Deutscher Boxer Club, which later established the original breed standard. Since the end of World War II, the Boxer has been recognized and celebrated as a popular, capable, and loyal companion and working dog. He has served in many capacities, from war dogs to farm dogs. Today, he can often be seen strutting around the show ring or working as a therapy dog, but many simply know the Boxer as a faithful and beloved family companion. Breed Characteristics Head: Somewhat brachycephalic skull-type, having a fairly short muzzle and slight upturn to the lower jaw. However, it should never appear as an extremely brachycephalic skull, as seen in dogs that are completely lacking the length of the muzzle or with an extremely upturned lower jaw. The head is moderate in size and in proportion to the rest of the body. When viewed from the front or profile, the skull is slightly arched and never prominently rounded or flat, with a median furrow that starts at the stop and progresses toward the back of the skull. The occiput is visible but not distinct or pronounced. The head may be chiseled or slightly padded with smooth never bulky muscle to denote strength. The head is free of wrinkles and excess skin, although some folds on the forehead and topskull may appear when the dog is alerted. Eyes: The eyes are large, lemon-shaped, or open almond, dark brown in color, and set somewhat wide apart. The eyes should never appear almond, oblique, narrow, overly round, too deeply set, or bulging. The eye rims are well-fitted and well-pigmented. Inner eyelid membranes are preferred to be darkly pigmented and not pink. Exposure of whites or haws, drooping of the eyelids, or rolling of the eyelids either inwards or outwards is incorrect. The eyes are never bulging. There should be sufficient bone in the surrounding orbital sockets to protect the eyes. Ears: The ears are set high on the skull and wide apart at the outer edge of the skull. They may be naturally dropped or cropped long. Natural ears are moderate in size, v-shaped, broad at the base, and somewhat short, with the inner edge and tip falling close to the head in repose. Tips will come forward when alert. Cropped ears should be cropped long and tapering. Improperly cropped ears are not to be penalized. Upper and lower jaws have good bone substance, appearing strong and well-developed, never appearing snipey or weak. The muzzle plane must be level from the stop to the point of the nose. It may not be excessively pushed-in, long, dished up concaved , or downfaced convex. The tip of the nose should be level on the skull or may be just slightly higher than the muzzle at the stop. In profile, the end of the muzzle protrudes, or rounds, just beyond the point of the nose, giving the end of the muzzle a somewhat rounded profile. The lower jaw is only slightly turned up and must never protrude beyond the break of the lips. Nose: The nose is large, well-pigmented, and black or self-colored according to the coat. The nostrils are well-opened, never appearing narrowed or closed. The nose is never excessively pushed into the stop but sits at the end of the muzzle or just before the rounding of the end of the muzzle. Neck: Moderate length to allow for proud head carriage, strongly-muscled and distinctively arched. The neck tapers smoothly from the deeper and broader body toward the head. The neck is clean-cut, without excess skin, throatiness, or dewlap. Chest: Deep and broad but never wider than deep. The brisket extends to the point of the elbows. The forechest is well defined, yet not overly prominent. Body: Compact, solid, deep, and of good substance. The body is never racy or refined. The width at the forequarters is approximately equal to the width at the hindquarters. Feet: Oval to round, compact, with well-arched toes and tough pads. Tail: Set high on the croup, thick at the base and tapering toward the tip. The tail may be left natural or docked short. Natural tails preferred are of a medium length, with the tip of the last vertebrae extending to the hock joints when held down. They may be straight or gently curved. Docked tails should never be completely removed, leaving at minimum three vertebrae. The tail should never be kinked or screwed. The characteristics of a healthy structure are evident. When moving away, the forelegs and rear pasterns should remain parallel to one another. When viewing movement from the front, the forelegs should remain parallel, with elbows and paws moving neither in nor out. From the rear, the back pads should be visible when the rear legs are extended. As speed increases, the forelimbs and hindlimbs will converge to the center line of gravity. From the side, the topline should remain firm and level. Good reach of movement in the front allows the forepaw to extend out in line with the nose. When extended, the width between the forefeet should be approximately equal to the width between the hindfeet when extended, indicating balance, good reach, and good drive. Dogs that exhibit any sign of breathing or locomotive difficulty shall be disqualified from the show ring. They are confident, devoted, eager, and watchful. Any unprovoked aggressive or fearful behavior toward people is incorrect for this breed. The ideal body height-to-length ratio is between and .Females may be slightly longer. The body is well-put-together, with sturdy substance and medium bone. Males should appear masculine, being more substantial in size and mass, while females should appear more feminine and slightly less substantial. Neither should lack overall type. The weight of a male or female is always in proportion to height. Head General Appearance: Somewhat brachycephalic skull-type, having a fairly short muzzle and slight upturn to the lower jaw. Expression: Alert, intelligent, confident, and capable. Stop: The stop is definite, preferably forming a degree angle between the topskull and muzzle. Skull: The ideal muzzle-to-skull ratio is between to , with the topskull being longer than the muzzle. The ideal muzzle-to-skull axis is somewhat convergent. Lips or Flews: The lips are thick, broad, somewhat padded, and slightly loose. They are never overly droopy or pendulous. They fit snugly over the teeth and cover the jaws well. The upper and lower lip edges meet in front of the incisors, never covering the chin or lower lip. Cheeks: Cheeks may appear smooth or with slight padding of muscle to denote strength. The cheeks should not appear bulky or coarse. Dentition and Bite: Forty-two strong, clean, and white teeth. Reverse-scissor bite or slightly undershot bite preferred. Body and Tail General Description: Compact, solid, deep, and of good substance. Topline: Straight yet gently sloped from prominent withers to croup. The back is short, broad, strongly muscled, and straight, yet supple. The loin is taut and may be flat, level, or just slightly almost imperceptibly arched, yet supportive. The back is never level when standing, swayed, or roached. The topline may level out as the dog moves. Croup: Gently sloped and in line with the rest of the topline. It is strong, straight, and muscular. The croup and pelvis may be slightly longer and wider in females. Underline: The underline is short and tight, with a slight tuck up. The underline is taut and firm, without any indication of sagging or excess weight. Ribs: Long, well-sprung, well-laid-back, oval-shaped, never barrel-chested or slab-sided. Forequarters and Hindquarters Forequarters: The forequarters are always balanced with the hindquarters and well-angulated with well-laid-back shoulder blades. Shoulder blades are approximately equal in length to the upper arm and forearm. Elbows: The elbows are close to the body. Forelegs: Frontal View: Straight, of good muscle and bone, and parallel to one another. Side View: The forelimbs appear straight with strong pasterns. Pasterns: Never weak or broken. Hindquarters: The upper and lower thighs are equal in length, strong, sturdy, of good bone, and well-muscled. Rear View: When viewed from the rear, the rear pasterns are parallel to one another. Side View: Good angulation will allow the rear toes to align with the point of the rump or within one to two paw lengths behind the point of the rump, with the rear pasterns remaining perpendicular to the ground and parallel to one another. Stifle Joint: Well-angulated with a good bend to well-let-down rear pasterns. Angulations: The angulation of the hindquarters is always in balance with the angulation of the forequarters. Coat Skin: Well-fitted, yet supple. The skin should never obstruct the outline of the dog. Coat Type: The coat is short, smooth, close, and fitting to the body throughout. The texture is hard and glossy. No fringe or feather is permissible. Standard color variety: Various shades of fawn light tan to mahogany, always with black mask , light brindle fawn with black mask , all with or without white tuxedo markings. From the root of the nose, folds are always indicated, running in a downward direction on both sides. Note: All standard-colored Boxers should have a clearly distinguished mask confined to the muzzle to contrast sharply with the rest of the coat. Non-standard color variety: Solid white, black, reverse-brindle, or seal, all with or without white markings, or primarily white with markings in the previously listed colors and patterns. Faults All dogs should be in proper healthy condition, free from disease or defect. Any departure from this description is considered a fault. Unless altered, all male dogs should have two fully descended testicles. Further information: Bullenbeisser Friedrich Robert and his boxer, The Boxer is a hunting mastiff developed in Germany in the late 19th century from the now extinct Bullenbeisser , a dog of English Mastiff descent, and Bulldogs brought in from Great Britain. Its task was to seize the prey and hold it until the hunters arrived. In later years, faster dogs were favored and a smaller Bullenbeisser was bred in Brabant , in northern Belgium. The Brabanter Bullenbeisser is generally accepted as being a direct ancestor of today's Boxer. The club went on to publish the first Boxer breed standard in , a detailed document that has not been changed much since. During World War I , the Boxer was co-opted for military work, acting as a valuable messenger dog, pack carrier, attack dog , and guard dog. Taken home by returning soldiers, the dog was introduced to a wider audience and soon became a favorite as a companion, a show dog, and a guard dog. Boxer early genealogy chart Flocki, the first Boxer German citizen George Alt, a Munich resident, mated a brindle-colored female dog imported from France named Flora with a local dog of unknown ancestry, known simply as "Boxer", resulting in a fawn-and-white male, named Lechner's Box after its owner. This dog was mated with his own dam, Flora, and one of his offspring was a female called Alt's Schecken. George Alt mated Schecken with a Bulldog named Dr. Flocki was the first Boxer to enter the German Stud Book after winning the aforementioned show for St. Bernards in Munich , which was the first event to have a class specific for Boxers. Blanka von Angertor, Flocki's sister, was even more influential when mated with Piccolo von Angertor Lechner's Box grandson to produce the predominantly white particolored female dog Meta von der Passage, which, even bearing little resemblance with the modern Boxer standard early photographs depict her as too long, weak-backed, and down-faced , is considered the mother of the breed. Our great line of sires all trace directly back to this female. She was a substantially built, low to the ground, brindle and white particolor, lacking in underjaw and exceedingly lippy. As a producing female, few in any breed can match her record. She consistently whelped puppies of marvelous type and rare quality. Those of her offspring sired by Flock St. Salvator and Wotan dominate all present-day pedigrees. Combined with Wotan and Mirzl children, they made the Boxer. Breed name[ edit ] The name "Boxer" is supposedly derived from the breed's tendency to play by standing on its hind legs and " boxing " with its front paws. Brace's Pet Owner's Guide to the Boxer, this theory is the least plausible explanation. At that time, the spelling "baxer" equalled "boxer". Both the verb boxen [English "to box, to punch, to jab"] and the noun Boxer were common German words as early as the late 18th century. The term Boxl, also written Buxn or Buchsen in the Bavarian dialect, means "short leather trousers" or "underwear". The very similar-sounding term Boxerl, also from the Bavarian dialect, is an endearing term for Boxer. These dogs were the result from mixes of Bullenbeisser and other similar breeds. Bier beer probably refers to the Biergarten, the typical Munich beer garden, an open-air restaurant where people used to take their dogs along. The nickname "Deutscher Boxer" was derived from Bierboxer and Boxer could also be a corruption of the former or a contraction of the latter. This seems improbable. Any such action would likely result in a badly bitten if not broken leg. On the other hand, a German breeder of 40 years' experience states positively that the Boxer does not use his feet, except to try to extinguish a small flame such as a burning match. But a Boxer does box with his head. He will hit not bite a cat with his muzzle hard enough to knock it out and he will box a ball with his nose. Or perhaps, since the German dictionary translates Boxer as "prize-fighter", the name was bestowed in appreciation of the fighting qualities of the breed rather than its technique. Boxer is also the name of a dog owned by John Peerybingle, the main character in the best-selling book The Cricket on the Hearth by Charles Dickens , which is evidence that "Boxer" was commonly used as a dog name by the early 19th century, before the establishment of the breed by the end of that same century. A brindle Boxer with two white socks Brindle, fawn, and white Boxer puppies See also: Dog health A healthy Boxer puppy Leading health issues to which Boxers are prone include cancers , heart conditions such as aortic stenosis and arrhythmogenic right ventricular cardiomyopathy the so-called " Boxer cardiomyopathy " , [35] hypothyroidism , hip dysplasia , and degenerative myelopathy and epilepsy; other conditions that may be seen are gastric dilatation volvulus also known as bloat , intestinal problems, and allergies although these may be more related to diet than breed. An emerging health concern among boxers is Boxer Juvenile Kidney Disease JKD , where the kidneys do not develop normally during gestation and leads to chronic renal failure. There is strong evidence to suggest JKD is an inherited condition in boxers with research being undertaken by the University of Ohio to determine the gene mutation, as well as other work separately by the UK Boxer Breeder Council. Mortality due to infection increases significantly with increases in inbreeding. The breed is particularly predisposed to mast cell tumours, a cancer of the immune system. Because of their brachycephalic heads, they do not do well with high heat or humidity, and common sense should prevail when exercising a Boxer in these conditions. See also: Dog food Boxers need plenty of exercise, which means their diet should be high in quality calories. The main source of these calories should be lean animal protein, which include lean chicken, turkey, lamb, and fish. They sometimes appear at dog agility or dog obedience trials and flyball events. These strong and intelligent animals have also been used as service dogs, guide dogs for the blind, therapy dogs, police dogs in K9 units, and occasionally herding cattle or sheep. The versatility of Boxers was recognized early on by the military, which has used them as valuable messenger dogs, pack carriers, and attack and guard dogs in times of war. Notable Boxers[ edit ] Punch and Judy were awarded the Dickin Medal for conspicuous gallantry or devotion to duty while serving in a military conflict.
Questions about Bulldog puppies for sale in Miami FL? We have answers. How much are Bulldog puppies for sale in Miami FL? The cost of a Bulldog for sale in Miami is going to vary for a few different reasons. The coat color, and pattern, as well as the eye color of each pup can affect their price. More unusual combinations will usually cost more. The experience of individual Miami Bulldog breeders will also make a difference. What if there are no Bulldog breeders in Miami right now? How do you screen Bulldog breeders Miami? Our rigorous screening process makes it easy to sort the best companies and businesses from the rest. What makes Uptown Puppies different from other networks with Bulldog puppies Miami? We can promise you there will never be a listing from them on the Uptown network! Instead, we concentrate on fostering positive relationships with businesses with the best Miami Bulldog puppies for sale, making it a breeze to find your dream pup. Puppy mills are terrible places that care more about making a profit than taking care of their dogs. As a result, the puppies both in mills are often poorly, and at a higher risk of needing expensive veterinary treatments. They can also suffer from serious behavioral issues due to not being properly socialized. Are there Bulldog puppies for sale Miami right now? You bet! What sort of dog is a Bulldog? The original purpose of the Bulldog was twofold. They were bred to bait and fight bulls as part of an unpleasant sport known as bull-baiting, but they were also used to drive cattle. What is the Bulldog temperament like? All a Bulldog wants is to be loved! Their kind and affectionate natures mean they like to make friends with everyone. What health conditions can affect Bulldogs? The main thing to be careful of with Bulldogs is not to let them overheat. Avoiding too much exercise in warm weather is recommended, as is using air-conditioning. What are Bulldogs like to train? Bulldogs are eager to please their owners, which usually makes them the perfect training partner! Positive reinforcement techniques work great with these pups, just go easy on the treats as they can easily put on weight! Any Bulldog for sale in Miami will definitely make a fun and willing member of puppy training classes. Get to know your pet with our expert resources on pet care, behavior, and training. You can search for English bulldog puppies for sale from reputable breeders or adoption centers. Some people may choose to rescue an English Bulldog, which can be a rewarding experience for both the pet and owner. English bulldog breeders can also be a great source of information and guidance on the breed. When considering adopting or purchasing an English Bulldog, it is important to consider the temperament of the dog and the potential health issues they may face. You can also choose from a miniature English Bulldog or an old English Bulldog, depending on your lifestyle and needs. English bulldogs are a popular breed that can make great pets for the right family. English bulldogs have a reputation for being loyal, friendly, and affectionate, making them great pets for families with children. These dogs are also known for their calm temperament and love for cuddling. However, they can be stubborn, which means they may be harder to train compared to other breeds. When it comes to aggression, English bulldogs are not generally known for being aggressive. However, like any other breed, they can be prone to certain health issues that may affect their behavior, such as breathing difficulties, joint problems, and skin infections. Breeds in Miami The English bulldog puppies, the most sold dog! Characteristics of English bulldog puppies are their adorable wrinkled face, short legs, and muscular body. They are friendly, courageous, and loyal companions.
Read all details Description Littlest Pet Shop German Shepherd Pet German Shepherd pet has big eyes and big ears Loads of pet-lovin' fun Collect them all each sold separately German Shepherd Ages 4 and upTake this cute, colorful German shepherd pet along wherever you go, and you'll be friends in no time! With this starry-eyed little pup in tow, every day will feel like an adventure. Your Littlest Pet Shop collection won't be complete without your fancy German shepherd pet! Collect your fave LPS pets and play digitally! It's a fun and free way for kids to play games with and keep track of their favorite LPS pets. Each Sweetest Littlest Pet Shop pack includes a pet collector token that brings your sweet pets into your virtual world. Just download the free app from the App Store or Google Play to your smartphone, then use the app to scan the token and start collecting! Watch your collection grow and grow with every pet you add! Learn more at www. Ask a parent first. In-game micro-transactions available but not necessary. App Store is a service mark of Apple Inc. Google Play is a trademark of Google Inc. Copyright Gameloft. All Rights Reserved. Read More. We can connect with our laptops or smartphones and buy things online instantly from the comfort of our own homes. First, the vast majority of adverts selling puppies online are fake. In most cases, the dogs never existed, and buyers are duped out of hundreds or thousands of dollars. Many of the puppies for sale on Craigslist have come from puppy mills. These places are run purely for profit and will cut corners to boost their income. They keep their dogs in basic accommodation usually kennels , which are often filthy. The puppies are often weak and sickly, and many die pretty early on. There have also been hundreds of cases where people have bought purebred pups, but these turn out to be mutts. The answer is clear: Avoid Craigslist when buying animals! If you find a reputable local breeder, they will welcome you to the site to visit with them and meet the parent dogs. Some may allow you to see the pups, but access is sometimes restricted to stop them from getting sick. Check out the breeder thoroughly, and be sure to ask questions. A good breeder will tell you to do this anyway, as they have nothing to hide and will be only too pleased to connect you with happy customers who will provide testimonials. Even so, these beautiful animals can be found in shelters across America, along with thousands of other dogs. Instead of buying from a breeder, why not consider giving one of these dogs a forever home? If you think you could provide a loving home to a dog in need, take a look at the following site: 1. They are simply two devoted dog-lovers who spend much of their time helping homeless dogs. All puppies can be a challenge. Like other dogs, the GSD will go through teething. It will need potty training and obedience training. They are very social animals that need company, especially human company. Without this, they become frustrated and sometimes aggressive. German Shepherds shed a lot! Your GSD pup can come in one of 11 standard colors , not just the classic black and tan you often see. GSDs have a lifespan of between 7 and 10 years, and they have a few health concerns to watch out for, including arthritis and hip dysplasia. All good breeders test for the main health problems, which is another reason to use them. In conclusion, the German Shepherd is a wonderful animal that deserves a home that can match its energy and intelligence. Related articles:. Breeds The link has been copied! Navigating the world of puppyhood can be both an exhilarating and daunting experience. Among the myriad decisions that new pet owners must make, determining the right quantity and type of food for your furry companion stands paramount. Especially for breeds like the German Shepherd, which grow rapidly and have specific nutritional needs, ensuring the right diet from the start is crucial for their overall health and development. In this guide, we will delve deep into understanding just how much to feed a German Shepherd puppy, taking into account their age, weight, activity level, and unique dietary requirements. Whether you're a first-time dog parent or a seasoned German Shepherd enthusiast, this comprehensive guide aims to shed light on your puppy's nutritional journey. German Shepherd Puppy Nutrition: The Basics The first step in understanding the feeding requirements is to grasp the basics of German Shepherd puppy nutrition. These puppies are an energetic lot. They grow rapidly and thus have specific dietary needs. For instance, did you know that a basset hound beagle mix might have completely different nutritional requirements than a German Shepherd? It's not just about the breed but also about understanding their activity levels, growth spurts, and potential health concerns. Why Exact Portions Matter Overfeeding can lead to obesity, while underfeeding might stunt growth. Neither situation is ideal. A friend of mine once had a German Shepherd puppy named Max. She treated Max like her child and always felt he should eat heartily. But feeding him without a proper plan led to weight issues. By the time Max was an adult, he had joint problems and other health issues. A puppy's weight is an excellent indicator of its overall health. Regular vet check-ups can help monitor this. Contrary to popular belief, medium-sized dogs might consume less food per pound of body weight than larger breeds like the German Shepherd. And while German Shepherds might not be categorized under italian dog breeds, they still have their unique set of nutritional requirements. If you've ever seen a German Shepherd jump and play, you'd know they're highly energetic. They need a protein-rich diet. For example, while it might be safe for some dogs to occasionally eat pepperoni , a staple diet should focus on specialized puppy food with meat as the primary ingredient. Homemade Food vs. Commercial Food While there's a growing trend to feed dogs homemade meals, it's vital to ensure they're getting all the required nutrients. My neighbor, for example, only feeds her Collie nose dog a homemade diet, but she's extremely meticulous about including all necessary ingredients. With German Shepherds, a mix of both commercial and homemade can be a good approach. Commercial foods often have the advantage of being well-balanced. Common Mistakes to Avoid Not reading the food label: Just like humans, not every food is suitable for your German Shepherd puppy. Study the ingredients. Assuming all dog breeds have the same needs: Just as you wouldn't expect an Italian Greyhound one of the popular italian dog breeds to have the same dietary requirements as a German Shepherd, be breed-specific in your approach. Ignoring water intake: Hydration is as essential as nutrition. Ensure your pup has constant access to fresh water. When To Consult a Vet If you notice signs like lethargy, refusal to eat, or sudden weight changes, it's best to consult a vet. Sometimes, puppies can even get concussions from accidents at play, affecting their appetite and behavior. Always be vigilant and prioritize your puppy's health. Unlike a basset hound beagle mix which might have a more consistent growth rate, German Shepherds can surprise you with their growth spurts. Adjusting their feeding schedule becomes critical to ensure they're getting enough fuel for growth but not so much that it leads to obesity. Transitioning to Adult Food When your German Shepherd reaches around six to twelve months, you'll need to think about transitioning from puppy food to adult food. Remember how our parents told us we couldn't survive on pizza forever? Similarly, as tempting as it might be for a dog to eat pepperoni as a treat, it's essential to understand that what was beneficial for them as puppies might not be suitable as adults. Watching Out for Allergies Food allergies in dogs are more common than you'd think. If you notice symptoms like excessive itching, ear infections, or gastrointestinal issues, your puppy might be reacting to something in their diet. Interestingly, even breeds like the Collie nose have shown tendencies for certain allergies. Consulting with a veterinarian can help determine the cause and adjust the diet accordingly. Treats and Snacks: Yay or Nay? Who doesn't love treating their fur baby? But it's essential to ensure treats don't become a mainstay of their diet. Think of it this way: would you let a child eat candy all day just because they like it? The same goes for treats. They're delightful but should be given in moderation. Remember those medium-sized dogs we talked about earlier? They, just like German Shepherds, require a well-balanced diet. While it's okay to give them an occasional treat, be sure it's suitable for their size and age. Exercise and Feeding: The Vital Connection You might wonder, what does exercise have to do with feeding? A lot! An active German Shepherd puppy will burn more calories than one that lounges around. It's akin to humans — an athlete's diet varies significantly from someone with a sedentary lifestyle. Keep a watchful eye on your puppy's activity levels. If you've got a sprawling backyard where your German Shepherd loves to play and maybe occasionally chase the odd squirrel, they'll likely need more food. But if it's winter and they're indoors most of the time, you might need to adjust the portions slightly. Their lineage traces back to times when they were used for herding and guarding. This means their nutritional demands might be higher than some other breeds. The Role of Genetics While a lot of emphasis is given to diet and exercise, we can't ignore the role genetics play. For instance, just like how some people can be lactose intolerant or have gluten allergies, specific breeds, including the German Shepherd, can be genetically predisposed to certain health conditions. A basset hound beagle mix might have a set of genetic health issues different from a German Shepherd. Such genetic predispositions can affect dietary needs. For example, German Shepherds can be prone to hip dysplasia, a condition where joint health becomes paramount. Supplements like glucosamine can be beneficial in such cases. Advocates believe it mimics the natural diet of wild ancestors. This might involve raw meats, bones, and even organs. But is it right for a German Shepherd puppy? Like with any diet, there are pros and cons. Raw diets can offer fresher, unprocessed nutrients, but there's also a risk of bacterial infections or missing out on essential vitamins and minerals. If you're considering this for your German Shepherd, do thorough research and perhaps even consult with a vet or a pet nutritionist. The Perils of Over-Feeding Just because your puppy gobbles down food quickly doesn't mean they're still hungry. Some dogs, especially active breeds like German Shepherds, have voracious appetites. But overfeeding can lead to a myriad of health issues, from the obvious obesity to other problems like diabetes. Remember the mention of dogs that eat pepperoni? Occasional indulgence is one thing, but consistently feeding your puppy fatty or human foods can be harmful in the long run. The Importance of Hydration While we've talked a lot about food, water is just as crucial. Puppies, especially active ones, need a lot of water. Always ensure that your German Shepherd puppy has access to fresh and clean water. Hydration aids in digestion, keeps the body temperature regulated, and ensures smooth functioning of bodily processes. The Game Changer for German Shepherd Puppy Owners As we've been diving deep into the world of German Shepherd puppies, understanding their unique needs and growth patterns, it's essential to introduce a tool that's becoming a game changer for many puppy owners: the FI dog collar. The Link Between Nutrition and Activity German Shepherds, as mentioned before, are incredibly active dogs with varying nutritional needs based on their activity levels. This is where the FI dog collar shines. Imagine having a Fitbit for your dog. Is your puppy more active than the average German Shepherd? Then they might need a slightly larger portion at dinner. Or perhaps they've had a particularly lazy day? Maybe cut back a little on the treats. Just like you wouldn't feed a sedentary basset hound beagle mix the same as an active German Shepherd, within the breed itself, there are variances based on individual activity. Safety First German Shepherds are curious by nature. Whether they're tempted to eat pepperoni from the kitchen counter or are intrigued by the scent trail of a squirrel, they can sometimes wander off. If your German Shepherd puppy decides to go on an unscheduled adventure, you can quickly locate them. The FI collar provides health insights tailored to your German Shepherd puppy, considering their breed, age, and weight. This feature ensures that whether you have a sprightly Collie nose or an active German Shepherd, the collar provides insights best suited for your dog. You'd want a collar that's as tough as they are. The FI collar boasts a durable design that can withstand the playful antics of your puppy, from rough play to the occasional dip in the pond. Conclusion: In the journey of raising a robust and healthy German Shepherd puppy, understanding their unique dietary needs is paramount. From recognizing the importance of portions, transitioning to adult food, and monitoring for allergies to acknowledging the value of hydration, every step plays a vital role. The modern addition of tools like the FI dog collar amplifies our ability to cater to their needs, providing real-time activity data and ensuring their safety. As German Shepherd owners, while it's essential to know how different they are from breeds like the basset hound beagle mix or Italian dog breeds, it's equally crucial to embrace technology and insights for their optimal well-being. The link has been copied! You might also like. Check out the cutest animals from Littlest Pet Shop! These family packs come with mom, dad and little babies! Check out the tiny newborns! So sweet! I hope y. Their white markings combined with. Littlest Pet Shop London Punk. 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Teach an alternative behavior like "lick" or "kisses" Alright, let's dive into each tip below. Exercising a puppy is one of the best ways to help alleviate problem behaviors like biting. Again, how much exercise your puppy needs will be largely dependent on their breed and age. A general rule of thumb is that a puppy can have 5 minutes of exercise per month of age, twice a day. So a 4-month-old puppy can exercise for 20 minutes twice a day. The more energy your pup uses, the better! Exercise can also take the form of , just be careful not to overrun your pup. Excessive exercise can cause joint problems in the long run. There are a host of options to help you overcome this issue so you can still effectively get rid of their energy. Consider getting a flirt pole. Flirt poles are a fantastic option because they allow you to play very energetic and fun games of chase, without worrying about getting your hands nipped at. You can get one here. Another option is to teach your pup a structured game of fetch. Fetch is great because it exercises dogs both physically and mentally. Zak George lays out how to teach your dog to fetch in our free online training class, 30 Day Perfect Pup. You can sign up here. Remember, many dogs can have been bred for hundreds of years to have high levels of energy. Be sure to give your pup an outlet with exercise to help stop that puppy biting! Don't miss out! That is the perfect time to engage them mentally with a quick training session! Not only does it deter them from biting, but it gives you an opportunity to reward them for positive behavior. In its simplest form, the leave it behavior is all about restraint. A dog that can restrain from lunging and grabbing a treat on the ground, is much more likely to be able to leave your hand alone when you ask. Step 2: Show your pup a treat and then close your hand so your pup cannot access it. Your pup will likely try to get to the treat by licking, biting hopefully not , or pawing at your hand where the treat is. Step 3: Practice that behavior multiple times until your pup starts to generalize the concept. The next step after that would be to try putting a treat on the ground and telling your pup to leave it. Step 5: Practice, practice, and then keep practicing. If your pup starts biting into your skin, give the leave it command, and reward when they stop. Practice makes perfect! For example, as you teach your pup the sit behavior you can help them understand yes and no. Over time trust me, it takes time , your pup will better start to understand the difference between yes and no. My wife and I raised two Yellow Labs that are about 7 months apart. And they were the first puppies we had raised as adults. So please, trust me when I tell you that getting frustrated will only make things worse. When you are frustrated, your pup likely is as well. And when puppies are frustrated, they won't learn! So, if you find a certain puppy behavior like biting or situation starting to overwhelm you… take a timeout. Let your pup cool down in their crate or sleep area and give yourself a few minutes to regroup. Guess what. So, do what you need to do for a personal break, and then recommit and get back at it! They have a keen sense of noticing our emotions. When frustration creeps in, learning stops for both human and dog. Redirecting to a game of tug of war can help teach your pup what is okay and not okay to chew on. As we mentioned before, puppies explore the world with their mouth, that is totally normal! Many pup parents have found it best to approach your pup with the toy in hand so you can be ready if the hand chomping starts happening. Teaching your dog tug can be a great way to stop puppy biting. Just remember, these behaviors can take significant practice and time to overcome. The question is, are you rewarding those positive behaviors and moments as you should be? If you are going through the process of overcoming puppy biting, you need to remember to praise the successful moments. When your pup comes up to you and lets you pet them without getting nippy, praise and reward them! Maybe you will see your puppy chewing a toy instead of your slippers or hand, reward them! If your puppy licks your hand instead of biting it, reward them! A huge part, and often underlooked, of training a puppy is to praise their successes. Treat each victory as a party and break out the fun, , and praise. Your job as a pup parent is to teach your dog what you want them to do. PS- If you're looking for a high-value reward treat for your pup, we've got your back! Check out our. Of course, you praise the positive moments but at times, you have to take away what your pup is desiring. In the instance of biting, pups are looking for playtime and engagement with us humans. Leave the room, put them in another room, or put them into a playpen for minutes. Implementing this method consistently will help your pup come to understand that when biting starts, playtime stops. A note on this, in most cases it is best to not use the crate as a negative reinforcer like a timeout. For example, when your pup starts nibbling, do your best to not jerk your hand away quickly. Most dogs love things that are moving! So if you jerk your hand or foot away, your pup may think you are trying to be playful. If your pup starts biting, let your hand go limp. Another way to make your skin a little less enticing is to keep them covered when possible. Being a successful pup parent oftentimes comes down to how well you can set your pup up for success. So if you know your pup is going through an extreme biting phase, consider keeping that skin covered when at home. It can be wearing socks, long sleeves and pants, and other things like that! When the puppy biting phase is at its worst, every little bit of help is important! Dogs are obviously very skilled at helping each other learn what is okay for play, and what is too aggressive. One quick note on socializing your puppy is that you should always be there to monitor them! Be active and aware and be ready to intervene if the play gets out of hand or aggressive. Some dogs have lower levels of patience with puppy biting, so be aware of how the other dogs are responding. Many pup parents find that the more they can correctly socialize their puppy, the milder the puppy biting will become. If you can effectively teach them a behavior that they can only do without biting then you'll be much closer to no biting! While there are plenty of alternative biting behaviors you can teach, here are some favorites:. By Chris Lab puppies are the definition of cuteness. But they are not always the angels they seem! What can you do when your Labrador puppy develops a biting habit? How to stop a Lab puppy from biting? These adorable little guys possess some not-so-good behaviors, especially during the first few months of their lives, a major one being biting. At first, it may seem cute, but it can be irksome, especially when your pup starts destroying things around your house or even begins biting you. Read on to learn some valuable tips on how to train your Labrador puppy to stop biting. What Causes Puppy Biting? Teething in puppies often starts when they are approximately three weeks old. By the time they are six weeks old, these little guys will have all 28 deciduous teeth. When your pup is around 12 weeks old, it will start shedding these teeth, paving the way for the permanent teeth to grow. You may notice these teeth around your home, but most likely, your furry little friend will swallow these teeth while eating. Your puppy tends to chew on everything because the teething process is quite uncomfortable and painful. That is why it will bite and nip on anything to try and relieve that pain. You may also notice your pet drooling excessively and not eating much during this phase. Even strong swimmers like Labs need a break every now and then Your Puppy Is Exploring Its Surrounding During the socialization stage which is from 4 to 12 weeks of age , puppies tend to bite and nip as a way of exploring their environment. At this stage, your pup will chew anything out of curiosity and to test its social boundaries. Separation Anxiety Puppies and older dogs who suffer from separation anxiety mostly exhibit destructive behaviors such as excessive biting. Separation anxiety is basically when your puppy becomes agitated, anxious, or depressed when you prepare to leave, or you have already left. Typically, puppies require between 16 to 18 hours of sleep every day. When they do not get enough sleep, they may begin exhibiting destructive behaviors such as excessive biting. Puppies who have the zoomies tend to show behaviors such as barking and biting excessively, running and spinning around, and so on. A lack of exercise is the leading cause of dog zoomies. These destructive behaviors are a way for your puppy to release that pent-up energy it has held in for quite some time. Here are a few ways on how to train your puppy to stop biting. Labradors are huge fans of babies as they age. Active families love a Lab! Try Bite Inhibition Bite inhibition is one of the most common methods puppy owners use to train their pups to stop biting. This is simply training it on how to control the force of its bites. Of course, you cannot entirely train a puppy to stop biting because it is part of how they socialize. Usually, puppies nip at each other while playing with their littermates or mothers. When your pup bites another puppy too hard, it will yelp, scaring your puppy enough to let go. You can take advantage of this behavior and teach your dog how much biting is acceptable. When it releases you, try ignoring it for approximately 10 to 20 minutes, then continue petting and playing with it. Another way to train your puppy to stop biting is by using positive punishment. Apart from yelping when it bites, you can also use a calm but firm voice to make it stop that behavior. Unlike humans, yelling at your puppy makes it more hyperactive and excited, making the habit even worse. When your puppy is biting excessively, you can gently place it in its cage for a couple of minutes until it calms down. However, it is essential to use this method sparingly to prevent your dog from developing negative responses. This may lead to your pup acting up when it sees someone walking towards it, which can be dangerous. It is also essential to reward your puppy when it calms down and stops biting, as it will help reinforce that positive behavior. If your pup tries biting your finger or hand, you can pull it away quickly before it does and provide a chewy toy for it to nip on instead. Do Labs like water? However, there are many things to consider when shopping for the ideal chew toy for your puppy. If you notice that your puppy shreds or destroys something it bites on within minutes, you should get a chew toy made of rubber or hard plastic. When choosing a chew toy for your furry little pal, make sure it is a good size for your puppy. Go for a toy that is not too big for your pup to carry and not too small that it can swallow and get lodged in its throat. It is also recommendable to get a treat-toy for your puppy. These toys allow you to stash some treats in them to elicit more interest. Such toys will help keep your puppy engaged enough to stop chewing on things around your home. Allow Your Puppy to Socialize With Other Puppies Arranging a playdate with other puppies is also a great way to train your puppy to stop biting. Like we mentioned earlier, puppies bite and nip at each other when playing. When one pup bites the other one too hard, it yelps, making the puppy stop nipping. This response helps your dog learn how much force of a bite is unacceptable. Is your dog a Prince or Princess? A Hero or a Pauper? Jasmine or Aladdin type? Would you give your puppy a Disney dog name? Conclusion While puppy biting is normal, it can become dangerous and uncomfortable as they grow older. My wife and I love playing with our active miniature Labradoodle Max. We want all Oodle puppies to be healthy and happy, have lots of fun and be part of the family. Load More. We may receive commissions from purchases made via our links. Lab puppies are incredibly cute, but their teeth really hurt when they are puncturing your skin every time you try to play. No one likes to be bitten, so how can you get a lab puppy to stop biting? The best way to stop a Lab puppy from biting is through a combination of proper exercise, training, redirection, and the use of positive affirmation. Most owners attempt at least one of these methods, but it is the combination and use of all of them that will effectively curb unwanted biting. Keep in mind that before you can stop it effectively, you should know why Labrador puppies bite so much. Additionally, know when they tend to naturally stop biting. Only then can you effectively begin to work on preventing them from biting. Lab puppies use their mouths to explore their environment and gather important information. When puppies are growing their adult teeth, they will often chew to soothe the ache along their gums. Labs may also bite to play or out of fear and aggression. Biting for Sensory Information When a puppy bites something, they learn how hard they can bite it, what it tastes like, how it feels, and if they can bite it again. All of this information is stored in a mental catalog your dog looks back on when encountering a similar object. This learning process is very important for puppies to become well-socialized dogs. When a puppy bites another puppy too hard they will lose their playmate. Biting too hard can have negative repercussions! Biting for sensory information is a totally normal behavior for puppies and even adult dogs. Since they don't have hands to explore with, their mouths are the only option. However, if you don't want your dog's mouth on you or your belongings, there are ways to stop this biting but we'll get to that later! Biting for Teething As your Lab matures, their mouths will start to change. Once their adult teeth begin to push up through their gums, the teeth they were born with begin to fall out one by one. It is the same process humans go through when their baby teeth come in and are later replaced with adult teeth. Just like with humans, this process is somewhat painful and incredibly uncomfortable. To help quicken the process, puppies will chew on things to wear down the gum between the new tooth and their mouth. This practice is also very soothing for puppies, especially if they chew on something cold. Biting for Play vs Biting for Aggression In the wild, dogs and wolves play by wrestling around and biting one another. Since your dog sees you as a member of its pack, they will try to play with you in a similar way. Of course, this biting still isn't ideal, but it's important to know the difference between play and real aggression. When a dog bites out of aggression, it is because they are scared, or you are asking them to do something they really don't want to do. Biting out of aggression is important to watch and fix at a young age so you don't end up with an aggressive dog. The most significant indicator of aggressive biting is body language. When a puppy is being playful, their body and facial muscles are relaxed. When a puppy is biting out of aggression, their body will be stiff or frozen, their face will have a lot of tension in it, and their lips may be pulled back in a snarl or growl. If you are seeing a lot of aggression in your puppy, you should contact your Veterinarian to make sure they are not in pain. When a dog suddenly becomes aggressive, they may have an unseen condition that is causing them to lash out. If you get a clear bill of health, you should seek the help of a professional trainer to help you. As we said earlier, as your Labrador matures, they will start to develop adult teeth. This change usually occurs around 12 to 16 weeks of age; the process will reach its end at about 7 months. Therefore, if your Lab is biting to soothe its gums, then the biting should end around the same time their teeth have fully grown in. If your puppy is biting for sensory information and play, it will lessen as your Lab matures and begins to slow down. While there is no magic number that says when your Lab will calm down , it usually happens between the ages of 2 and 4. First, don't hit your puppy as punishment. They aren't doing anything wrong in their mind because biting is natural. You also can't decide when it is and isn't okay to bite. Doing so can cause great confusion. When trying to prevent your Lab from biting, a few tips can help you. Exercise, training, redirecting, and positive affirmations are your secret weapons against those adorable, tiny, sharp teeth. Exercise Exercising your Lab daily will cause them to be too exhausted to do anything but sleep, let alone bite you. You can exercise your Lab by playing fetch, going on walks, or using enrichment toys. Training First, I recommend formal fundamental training before attempting anything specialized. Training your Lab not to bite sounds complicated, but it can be as easy as slapping some butter and seasoning on. If your Lab is biting YOU, put some butter on your arms and clothes wear they like to bite you. Show the butter to your Lab, and when they lick at it, say "yes, kisses, yes. This associates the word "kisses" with the act of licking and the yummy taste your dog gets. The next time your Lab tries to bite you, say "kisses," they should start to lick you instead as they try for the yummy taste. If your Lab is biting furniture or shoes, there is another approach. Grab a spicy seasoning, like paprika or taco seasoning, and sprinkle it on the places your Lab chews. Then, the next time they go to chew it, they will get a nasty taste in their mouth and leave the thing alone! Redirecting Redirecting your dog to things they are allowed to chew on when playing is another way to avoid being bitten. Have some good chew toys handy whenever you are playing with your Lab. When your Lab starts to bite you, show them a chew toy and try directing the bite towards it. After a while, your puppy should go after its toys instead of you. This type of training takes time , but is proven to be very effective. Positive Affirmation When your dog does what you want, whether it's licking or going for a proper toy, make sure you give them lots of praise. Tell them how good they are and even provide them with a treat or two! Final Thoughts Biting is a natural part of a Lab's life, but it is crucial to decipher playful nips and aggressive ones. Playful body language is loose and relaxed Aggressive body language is stiff and snarling If you are seeing a lot of aggressive body language in your Lab, make sure they are healthy and contact a trainer A Lab will probably stop biting after they stop teething If your Lab doesn't stop biting after teething, they should stop upon reaching maturity between 2 and 4 years of age Exercise, training, redirecting, and positive affirmation are the best ways to stop biting NEVER hit your dog to stop biting. We may earn money or products from the companies mentioned in this post. You turn your attention back to your computer screen and suddenly feel little teeth grabbing at your sock! You look down. Your once-angelic puppy is now having a full on game of tug-of-war with your pant leg! This cute baby is now more like a furry little monster. You get up and try to walk away, but the fur alligator is still attached, munching away at your trousers and having the best time! If this sounds like your life, read on to learn how to stop a puppy from biting. Why Do Puppies Bite? Believe it or not, this scenario is actually very common! Biting is one of the most natural things in the world to a young pup; and they do it for many reasons. You would be left with your feet and mouth to interact, taste and feel your environment. Now, what if you had puppy paws — incapable of grasping anything? That leaves you with one final way to interact — your mouth. For good measure, add in the incredible curiosity of a child. How many times do you see a baby grab things with their hands and pop them into the mouth? Puppies have that same mindset. Your mouth strength and play bite helped you communicate and determine your rank in society. Your mouthy mojo gave you respect in canine culture. Puppies interact with their surroundings largely through their mouths. Labradors, like most sporting breeds, have the drive to chase after prey, put it in their mouths, and bring it back to you. This translates into a strong need to chew. They will try this same tactic with their human pack members. If ignored, one bite on the toe is often enough to get the focus back on them. Remember, to a puppy even negative attention is still attention. Terrible Teething When you add teething into the mix, you have the recipe for a furry gator. Most pups will have an increased need to chew while teething , which can begin at 6 weeks and last to 8 months of age. Unlike teething, there is no magical age that puppies grow out of a learned mouthing behavior. Thankfully, with positive training, most dogs eventually lose interest in chewing on their owners. Types of Biting: Aggression or Play? Puppies use their teeth in many ways. However, this is actually just very intense play. Play biting can be accompanied with growling and snarling. This is just part of the fun to a young pup. Instead, we will look into how we can prevent playful mouthing. However, it is important to recognize the signs of aggression. Pay attention to the timing of the biting as well. If so, the motive behind the bite may be more aggressive. Could it be Resource Guarding? Some dogs also aggressively bite when they are guarding a toy or food item, commonly called resource guarding. With resource guarding, you will see the same behavior as aggressive biting, but they will also stand over an object and defend it from any perceived threat. If you think your puppy is behaving aggressively, seek professional help to learn how to actively manage this issue. In contrast to this, playing puppies will be relaxed and have a wiggly body. They will be bouncy, easily roll onto their backs and often be panting with open mouths. Even if they are growling, a relaxed face and body mean a happy puppy. What Can Trigger Biting? Do you really want your pound Labrador to target your hands as a toy later? Children Little kids tend to excite puppies more than adults. Children move erratically, run around, make strange sounds and have a lot more energy. Puppies can easily associate them with toys. Ankle Biters Puppies target fast moving objects that excite their prey drive. Your feet moving by at their eye level can be irresistible. After all, what self-respecting puppy would snub shoes with those floppy laces that are perfect for playing tug? How do we do this? Redirection with Hands When training your puppy, always have a toy to offer. Remember, puppies are like babies. Your job is to redirect them to fun toys instead of human skin. You must do everything possible to make toys extremely attractive so the puppy chooses them over your clothing, hands or feet. Redirection with Kids You can also use redirection around children. First, teach your puppy to use interactive toys and then show your child how to play with the puppy correctly. In the event that your dog forgets, teach your kids to be a tree when their puppy begins to bite them or their clothes. This position makes them less interactive to the puppy. They look boring and the puppy will lose interest. Most bites occur because the child is running or moving erratically. Remember, dogs have the same prey triggers as wolves. If something is running away, it looks like prey. Your job, therefore, is to have an even more amazing toy than your feet. You can take a toy, tie it to a rope, and then tie the rope to your belt so that you are dragging the toy whenever your pup is out. If your puppy is coming for your feet, stop moving them and wave the toy around excitedly instead. Once the pup is attached to the toy, you can start walking again. This way, they will pounce on the toy instead of you! Bite inhibition simply means that the puppy learns not to apply too much force behind their teeth. They apply gentle, but firm, pressure to their greeting. Puppies also learn to limit this pressure with their mouths by feedback from pack members. When puppies are little, they learn bite inhibition through play with their siblings. If two pups are tussling, and one bites down too hard, the other puppy yelps loudly. This startling sound usually causes the offending party to let go. The play stops for a few minutes, as the first pup nurses his wounded ego. Play then resumes, but with less brutality. Instead, let the puppy release your hand and then simply get up and and move away from your pup while ignoring them. Your job is to teach them when they bite down on you, the fun stops. Ignore them for about a minute, then return and resume the play and praise them when they focus on the toy. If they bite you too hard again, repeat this process. You can either step over a puppy barrier or go into another room and shut the door. Just make sure they are in a puppy-proof area, as they may take out their frustration on inappropriate household items. You can also keep the puppy on a leash while playing with them. If they bite you, you can calmly tether them to something and then walk out of their reach. Your goal is to correct the puppy only by taking away your fun presence. You should not be threatening or angry. Give them the appropriate time out from the fun interaction to settle down, and then come back with a toy to redirect their energy. Once they understand they have to be gentle, you can then start to ask more of them by ending the game with lighter and lighter pressure on your skin. Finally, you can take the game to the highest standard — no teeth on human skin at all. If you slowly progress to this over weeks, you teach your pup to have a soft mouth. If they do feel the need to put their teeth on a human, they know not to put much pressure into their bite. You need to teach your puppy that human skin is fragile and requires a softer touch than a canine interaction. Your goal for this exercise should be to help your puppy understand that the play and fun things continue as long as they keep their teeth on their toy and not on you! More Ways to Stop Your Puppy Biting While the yelp and time-out method works for most pups, there are additional ways to reinforce good behavior. When your puppy bites your hand, they get a terrible taste. You can use anti-chewing sprays like Bitter Apple to make your hands less appealing. When your puppy bites you, be still and wait for them to react to the bitter taste. When they let go, praise them and redirect them onto a treat or toy. You want the crate to always be associated with only good things. Crates also should be in the middle of the household, with the rest of the pack — not isolated. This is the same way other canine pack members would isolate them. A laundry room or puppy pen works well for this exercise. Make sure the room is comfortable and safe for your puppy. When the puppy is too stimulated, calmly put him in the room with some teething toys and leave. Teaching them interactive games like fetch or bringing you a toy to tug helps show them that they can have even more fun when they play by your rules. Positive play helps develop a bond with your dog. You never want to avoid it, you just want to show them how to play without biting you. Teaching puppies to retrieve objects helps to tire them out, gives them something positive to chase, and focuses their bite on an appropriate item. Plus, most Labradors are pretty good at retrieving! Remember, anytime we ask a puppy to stop a behavior, it should be because they are rewarded in an even more exciting and positive way for doing something else and things our way. The following video shows how. Video: How to Stop a Puppy from Biting This video shows how to use clicker training to stimulate a puppy in situations where they normally would bite; and then reward them when they choose a closed mouth and calm interaction. Dominant Puppies Dogs are individuals. However, as puppies mature, there may be the rare pup that uses biting as a way to take charge. Dominant puppies may bite to show you that they want to be the boss as they mature. This happens naturally among littermates, as all packs have a pecking order. This reinforces to them that you are backing down and that they are the leader in the relationship. Always remain calm and assertive with your puppy, but end the game as soon as they begin vying for leadership instead of playing. Remember, the alternative to not training your dog is a large animal putting his mouth on people. Be patient with your puppy. Remember, mouthing and biting are normal parts of canine culture. If you stay patiently positive, train consistently, and redirect and reward good behavior, you will soon see a puppy that learns to bring you a tug toy instead of shredding your trousers. It is not intended to be nor can it be considered actionable professional advice. It must not be used as an alternative to seeking professional advice from a veterinarian or other certified professional. Please consult a professional before taking any course of action with any medical, health or behavioral related issue. Helps ease anxiety in their new home. We love using Bully Sticks to help divert these unwanted behaviors. For a list of all the supplies we get for our new service dog puppies check out our New Puppy Checklist on the PuppyInTraining. Calm puppy behavior. Conflicting advice on how to stop your pup biting Many articles will tell you to ignore a puppy when he bites and to offer him a toy instead. Some people will tell you to punish your biting puppy. Others will tell you that you must not stop your puppy biting too suddenly, or punish him for biting, for fear of drastic consequences later. So who is right, and who is wrong? Does ignoring stop your puppy biting? Many new puppy owners try to ignore the biting puppy initially. This failure tends to be for one or more of the following reasons. Does noise stop puppy biting? There is no doubt that a sufficiently loud squeal, followed by immediate withdrawal of attention, will cause many Labrador puppies to break off from biting. Sometimes long enough for a skilled owner to then redirect the puppy into a more appropriate activity. There is also no doubt that for some puppies, this has the reverse effect, and causes them to bite harder and more fiercely. A puppy that has spent sufficient time with his Mum, may be more likely to take heed of this verbal warning, as he will expect it to be followed by a sharp click of her teeth and a fiercer rebuke if he ignores her. But there are no guarantees here. And the fact is, squealing simply does not work as an effective anti-biting strategy, for some puppies. Punishing the puppy to stop biting I have heard, even quite experienced, breeders tell new puppy owners to punish their puppy if he bites. Either by intimidating the puppy with an angry growling voice, or even with physical punishment such as a scruff shake or slap. But there are problems with this approach. This process is called bite inhibition. And the use of punishment may curtail all biting rather than just the hardest, most painful, bites. Nowadays many people like to train dogs without punishment. And there are strong reasons for joining them — check out this article — the downside of punishing dogs. Teaching puppy to stop biting Why would we want to teach dogs to bite humans gently? Why is it not best to teach them not to bite at all, right from the start? The idea of reducing biting gradually was popularised by Ian Dunbar. The theory is that a dog which learns to inhibit his bite i. You can read more about bite inhibition here: Labrador Puppies Biting. The concept is a sound one, and most canine behaviorists agree that teaching gradual bite inhibition is a good thing. The problem for many new puppy owners, is stopping those painful bites in the first place! The first step is not a technique at all, but an adjustment in the expectations that we have of a small puppy How much do Lab puppies bite? New puppy owners tend to have false expectations of puppies. They also anticipate that stopping a puppy from biting will be a fairly quick and simple matter. None of these expectations is true. Most puppies bite hard, frequently and growl fiercely whilst they are doing it. This noise is not a sign of aggression see Help my puppy is aggressive. Stopping a puppy from biting is a process, a journey. And it can be temporarily an uncomfortable one! It is important to accept that there is no guaranteed way of stopping biting immediately. Indeed, as we have seen, bite prevention rather than inhibition may be a bad thing in any case. Supervise your puppy around children Once you have got your head around the fact that this process will take some time, that it will be a gradual thing, you need to think about how you are going to protect any children that might come into contact with the puppy. This is important because small children can, both hurt and, be hurt by small biting puppies. Calm your puppy to stop him biting The next priority is to keep your puppy calm. Overexcited puppies bite harder and more frequently than less excited puppies. This will merely start the biting up all over again. There are lots of ways to interact with puppies without physically playing with them. Check out our article on playing safely with your dog. What to do when a puppy bites When your puppy bites you really hard, take immediate action. Stand up, move away from him and completely withdraw your attention. You can try the squeal thing if you want to. This works well with some puppies. Be ready for it, and repeat your actions. If the puppy chases after you, biting at your legs and feet, step over a baby gate, or pop him in his crate for a few minutes. You can read up on this process in more detail in this article: How to cope with biting. Remember, puppies enjoy chewing , and teething puppies need to chew on something. Whilst you and your clothing are not suitable chew toys, you need to provide your puppy with alternatives, like Kong toys. How to stop your puppy biting Biting is normal Biting should be inhibited in stages Training takes time The key points to take away from this are that biting is normal, and that training a puppy not to bite takes time. Stop the painful bites first, then work on putting a stop to mouthing. If what you are doing is not working, you probably just need to be more patient and persistent. If your children are suffering, you need to separate and supervise. Work hard on keeping your puppy calm — it makes the biggest difference. Print How to stop your puppy from biting your hands and feet — fast! Have you ever watched a litter of retriever puppies play with each other? They are all mouths and feet as they growl, bite and paw at each other. Over time, if left to it, each pup will naturally figure out their place in the pack. However, when you bring your Lab puppy home there are no longer littermates with whom to tussle. And the result is often that your Lab puppy will start biting and growling at you! The problem is that puppy teeth are sharp. Very sharp! And when your puppy bites you, even if they are playing, it hurts. So, what can you do to stop this behavior before it gets out of hand and you find yourself or someone in your family injured by your puppy? Before I go any further, I want to be clear about what we are talking about. You should seek professional help and evaluation. Why puppies bite and growl Puppy play is a kind of training for a dog as they grow and mature. It is also a way that dogs determine rank within a group. Remember, dogs are pack animals. In a pack there is only one Alpha lead dog. Every other dog is under the authority and control of that dog. No two dogs share the same rank. So, while biting and growling starts as play, it does not stay that way. All dogs, whether in a group of dogs or a human family, want to understand their place in the family. They need to know their place. It helps they be more mentally balanced and will help solve a multitude of behavioral problems. Once a puppy or dog understands where they rank in the pack, they often assume that place, at least for a while. Remember, they are dogs. They are not robots so occasionally they may challenge their position, but if the boundary remains clear, the challenge is short lived. Biting, nipping and playful growling at a human can become a challenge of dominance. If your puppy is young, you can quickly and easily end this behavior by establishing boundaries and consistently enforcing these boundaries each and every time your puppy shows this type of behavior. If you have let this behavior go on for a while, you may be in for quite a fight to take back your authority. Biting is not the same as chewing A puppy biting your hand or feet is not the same as a puppy chewing on a shoe, toy or other item. All puppies have a need to chew. As their puppy teeth grow and their adult teeth come in, it is common for dogs to chew on things to relieve the pain and help the new teeth to come in. This should not be discouraged, but rather encouraged on an appropriate item like a chew toy, nylabone or rawhide. And if this works, this is an appropriate solution. Instead, it is likely an issue of dominance. How to stop puppy from biting you Biting is just one puppy dominance behavior. There are many others such as jumping on you, putting a paw on your feet, and lifting and placing paws on your arms or legs. The behaviors I have listed are often gateway behaviors that escalate into more aggressive or troublesome behaviors like stealing food off your plate or the counter, pushing you out of the way when going through doors and pulling you around on a lead. Start by establishing firm boundaries The first step to stopping your puppy from biting or mouthing you is to set up firm boundaries for your puppy. You can set these up for not only biting but for all dominance behaviors. So, what is a boundary? Well, here are some examples. Some people we have worked with are okay with their puppy mouthing their hand as long as there is no tooth pressure. If you feel the same way, then make that a boundary. But if there is any tooth pressure, a swift and consistent correction will follow. This boundary is stronger and does not give the dog any room for confusion. In fact, they often will understand what your boundaries are but will test that standard against everyone else in the family. Each person needs to set and enforce boundaries. React with firm consistent corrections After you establish the boundary, you now need to react every time your puppy or dog crosses that boundary. Each and every time! There can be no room for confusion. Your corrections must be swift and consistent. Not all dogs react to the same level of pressure. For some dogs, this squeeze and strong words will be all it takes to stop the behavior. Especially if you are consistent in your correction. But some dogs have a stronger or more challenging personality. This will give your puppy a taste of his own medicine since his puppy teeth are sharp and will pinch into his lips or flews. You must be consistent. How long will it take to stop my puppy from biting me? If you are firm and consistent, the behavior should stop for the most part in a day or two. Some dogs require more pressure, some less. Your puppy should feel some discomfort. That is okay. The point is to show your puppy that biting hurts and that it is not an acceptable behavior. When nothing seems to work If you puppy is a bit older and has been getting away with biting and mouthing you for a while, you may struggle to end this behavior. Often the problem is a strong dominance issue that needs to be addressed. If your puppy continues to snap or bite at you even after a correction, you likely need to exert some dominance over your puppy. This is similar to what a mommy dog does to a puppy that is not behaving. Humans can do the same thing to show dominance over a rebellious puppy. I know, it sound a bit ridiculous but it really does work. Instead, remain calm and patient. Stay in control. Reacting with emotion can lead to strong reactions or punishment that you will later regret. The point is to show your dog that you are the Alpha in the relationship, and you can and will determine what behavior is acceptable. Biting is not love As a professional dog trainer, I am always surprised at what some of clients consider appropriate behavior. Some owners feel that setting boundaries and enforcing those boundaries means that you do not love your dog. That you need to accept all dog behaviors otherwise you do not love your dog. This is a false and faulty mindset. We have seen clients who have been injured by their dog multiple times and they still refuse to take steps to end the behavior. That is not love. What if the next person that dog bites is a child? Would you be able to live with that? A dog that is allowed to continue harming humans is only one bite away from having to be put down. It may sound harsh, but it is the sad truth. Some people may argue that the dog is unable to understand what they are doing is wrong. This is not based on reality. Dogs are very smart. They can learn to do amazing things and become incredible hunting partners and family companions. But they rarely achieve this potential without an owner who cares enough to set boundaries and enforce them. Final thoughts on how to stop my puppy biting me all the time You can stop your puppy from biting you and others if you are willing to take the steps necessary to make your dog understand that biting is not an acceptable behavior. A firm consistent correction each and every time your puppy bites will quickly teach your puppy to stop biting. These corrections will not harm your relationship with your puppy, but will, in fact, enhance it. Your puppy will quickly learn where the boundaries are and how to operate within those boundaries. We see it time and again, once a puppy is taught that there are boundaries, they quickly adjust and become wonderful loving and obedient family members. Help, my Lab puppy keeps biting me!
Come visit our facebook page!! Welcome to Dare to Dream Labradoodles! Our labradoodles are just outstanding! We pride ourselves in producing the BEST family pets. I have been dedicated to this breed for over 20 years now. With our labradoodles, our main emphasis is on health, temperament, and overall conformation. Being associated with these organizations is extremely important to us because it means that we hold our program to a very high standard. All of our Australian Labradoodles that are born and bred here at Dare to Dream Labradoodles come from the best breeding stock, which have all been health tested to the highest level. Our breeding program produces medium and standard size labradoodles. Since , all of our breeding dogs and pets have been hand-picked by me from the finest Australian and American lines. Our foundation dogs include Rutland Manor and Tegan Park lines. We are located on 4 acres of property in Southern Ontario. We are surrounded on all sides by farmer's fields. We are a family that absolutely loves what we do. Both my husband and I are actively involved with our dogs and our breeding program. We have a very young and growing family, which allows for the best puppy socialization available! Read more about our family in the About us link. Thank you for your interest in an Australian Labradoodle. Email: [email protected] Location: Grimsby, Ontario These three stylish Labradoodles help to demonstrate the curly coat type. They still have furnishings and could be trimmed to Teddy bear like Wavy coat but notice the loose Poodle curls on the chest of the middle dog. Extremely low shedding. All its dogs are raised in her home. Can Labradoodles smile? That ensures they know how chaotic family life can be. It also helps socialize the puppies and exposes them to everything from visitors to vacuum cleaners. That makes for a more adaptable, accepting Labradoodle puppy. Halton Hills screens its dogs carefully for their genetic health. Their breeding dogs are thoroughly vet-tested before embarking on a litter. Before leaving for their new homes, all puppies get dewormed and receive their first round of vaccines and a microchip. Because their parents are so thoroughly tested, they also come with a one-year health guarantee. However, once rehomed, Halton Hills remains available to offer you and your family advice on everything from training to grooming. Contact Details:. To ensure the safety of our readers and the right fit for a new pet, we work hard to make sure only the most trusted breeders are featured on the site. We have a dedicated team that works hard and has done extensive research that involves checking both the breeder and their dogs, to verify that the breeders featured on our site are highly reputable and trustworthy. Feedback on Google and Facebook is also taken into consideration before they are listed as a breeder to have the highest standards possible. We hope that this gives you a little more information about how we list breeders on our site. Labradoodle Puppies for Sale in Ontario: If you are looking for a companion dog that has a calm personality and loves children, getting a Labradoodle might be the ideal option for you. As we know, Labradoodles is a designer dog breed that becoming one of the most loveable designer breeds in Ontario, Canada. In fact, these friendly and intelligent pups are being adopted by more families at an increasing rate than other purebreds. After you decide to get a Labradoodle, the next and most important step is to find out a reputable and ethical breeder who values the breed as much as you do. You have probably heard about puppy mills and how they produce dogs with indiscriminate breeding practices as their puppies are usually unhealthy and not well-tempered. When looking to add a new member to your family, you should always buy from a good and reliable breeder. A good responsible breeder will always be there for their puppies and ensure that all of their needs are met for as long as possible. Check out this list and do your own research first about the breeder and then decide which breeder you want to go with. The Best Labradoodle Breeders in Ontario: 1. Who raises happy and healthy F1B Labradoodles with wavy fleece coats in medium to standard sizes. The purpose of this breeder is to provide the best of the best Labradoodle puppies to families so that they can live with it happily. They understand the importance of this thing, how difficult it is to find the perfect dog that suits you and your family. All Labradoodle puppies in Ontario come with a two-year Genetic Health Guarantee that you can count on, As well as they also guarantee you the incredible personalities you will receive in their puppies. If you are looking for a dog that has always been happy and can live a long life with its family and has been wonderfully cared for and well socialized, then you can buy such a dog from this breeder. If you want to know more about this breeder, we have given the link below. You can learn more about them and find out more about Labradoodles, by visiting their website. Australian Labradoodles in Windsor, Ontario! At pm on July 17th, , Cozy gave birth to her very first puppy. Just over an hour later, there were 5 more puppies in the world and by that evening, we had NINE healthy, happy puppies from Cozy by the fire. These Australian Labradoodles are medium-sized and will be between lbs full grown. They can go home as early as September 11th. In the wee hours of the morning, Tully gave birth to here very first litter and the puppies are adorable. We had 4 boys and 2 girls! We are so excited for this new litter and the best part is for the first time in 3 years, we have availabilities that are ready to go home NOW! They are medium sized Australian Labradoodles and will be lbs full grown with a going-home date of August 21st, .First bred as a non-shedding Guide Dog - this particular breed of Labradoodles has been in existence for over 30 years. Originally bred in Australia, their genealogy consists of not only Labrador Retriever and Poodle, but also the Cocker Spaniel. They are a non-shedding, hypo-allergenic, medium-sized breed that behave amazingly and are easily trained to suit your needs and your family. We love our life's work! And know You will Too! Arrowhead, Established in .We are the only family that breed our particular line of Cobberdogs, and are happy to announce we are now offering top quality MDBA registered Australian Cobberdog breeding dogs for sale. When you purchase a puppy from Arrowhead you are getting fresh and exciting genetics, creating the best temperaments and therapy Labradoodles and Cobberdogs ever. We have researched for years, traveled far and worked long hours to build our program to be one of the finest and most complete Labradoodle breeding programs in the world! We value the health and temperament of each of our Labradoodles , and provide clean, spacious living conditions for our family of companion Labradoodles. We provide an all natural, locally made food for our dogs and also an environment that contributes to each Cobberdog being a cherished member of our lives. Many of them are in caring foster homes and receive a life of continual support and love from two families, the foster family and us at Arrowhead. Please browse through our site, learn more about what we do and why. We are grateful for all the wonderful families who give our puppies great homes, because without them the magnificent Australian Cobberdog would not be a reality! Available Labradoodle and Cobberdog Puppies Loading
A full-grown male English Bulldog weighs about 50 to 55 pounds and stands 14 to 16 inches tall. A full-grown female English Bulldog weighs about ten pounds less at 40 to 44 pounds and stands at 12 to 14 inches tall. According to Care. This will be around inches tall for a male English Bulldog and approximately inches tall for a female English Bulldog. As for weight, a 6-month-old male English Bulldog will weigh about 33 to 37 pounds, while a 6-month-old female English Bulldog will weigh around 26 to 33 pounds. Pro Tip: Check out this ultimate pet parent guide that details 39 dog care tips on health, puppy-proofing practices, training, dog safety, and more! How much bigger will my English Bulldog get? If your English Bulldog is over two years old, they are probably fully grown. Any additional weight they put on may be excess and should be discussed with your veterinarian. Do their paws look big next to the rest of their body? They may still have room to grow as this is a classic puppy feature! A dog rarely grows to be larger than their parents, so this will provide you with a general idea of their final adult size. What is the size of a full-grown English Bulldog? According to the Bulldog Club of America Bulldog Standards , an English Bulldog should appear stocky but symmetrical with no excessively prominent features. English Bulldogs are especially prone to gaining extra weight and may exceed these weight estimates. Your veterinarian will be happy to discuss food type, quantity, frequency of feedings, and treats to get your English Bulldog back to their ideal weight. English Bulldogs may require extra attention due to some genetic health problems that are common for the breed. For example, English Bulldogs will require regular at-home baths, this cleaning is specifically to prevent infections under their skin folds. English Bulldogs are also highly prone to putting on excess weight, which is detrimental to their health. The Association for Pet Obesity Prevention estimates that .The English Bulldog is one of the most severely affected dog breeds and brachycephalic syndrome can lead to difficulty breathing, respiratory distress, heatstroke, and difficulty exercising due to their breathing restrictions. All of this can make weight loss even more difficult for the English Bulldog breed. Because your English Bulldog may have a harder time breathing than other dogs, your vet can recommend safe ways to allow them to exercise and enjoy life without getting overheated. If your pup has a particularly bad case and has difficulty breathing even when not exercising, you can talk to your veterinarian about surgery for Brachycephalic Airway Syndrome which is a common procedure done to help English Bulldogs and other brachycephalic dog breeds, like pugs, breath more easily. Taking your English Bulldog to regular veterinary appointments to keep them healthy and happy is one of the best things you can do for them! Not only can your veterinarian provide personalized advice to keep your pup healthy, but they can screen for common English Bulldog health problems, like skin infections, hip and knee problems. Unfortunately, veterinary care can be pricey. Veterinarian treatments for health issues, like hip and knee problems, can easily cost thousands of dollars. Treating medical issues, like accidents or sudden illnesses, can be expensive, but this should never be the deciding factor in treating your English Bulldog. Final Considerations As pet parents, we do our part by providing quality food, exercise, and care at home, but we also need to take our dogs in for regular veterinary appointments. A professional can provide you with personalized recommendations for your dog, as well as testing to detect any health issues early on. Prevention and early detection are vital in keeping our dogs healthy and happy! English Bulldog puppies grow into silly, lovable, and wrinkly dogs with a lot of personality. Compare and enroll in a top English Bulldog insurance plan here and gain the peace of mind that you'll always be able to do the right ting for your pet. At Pawlicy Advisor, we always want the health care decisions you make for your pet to be based on what you and your veterinarian think is best for them rather than being limited by financial restrictions. Do you want to find the best pet insurance? Let's analyze your pet's breed, age, and location to find the right coverage and the best savings. Analyze My Pet About Pawlicy Advisor The pet insurance marketplace endorsed by veterinarians, at Pawlicy Advisor we make buying the best pet insurance easier. UKC Classification: Companion Dog Prevalence: Common The English bulldog is a brawny little powerhouse whose characteristic crablike waddle exudes great strength, stability and vigor. The dog's head is large and spherical, and the muzzle is extremely short, giving the face a flattened appearance. The English bulldog's eyes are dark and set low and wide on the forehead in the frontal plane. The nose is black and slightly upturned. The jaws or "chops" are massive, broad and undershot. The lower jaw juts out in front of the upper jaw to scarcely expose the lower incisors, producing a comical grin. The lips are fleshy and pendulous. The cheeks are well rounded and protrude sideways. The ears are thin, small and angle forward like flaps that frame the forehead. The English bulldog's neck is short and thick; the shoulders are massive, muscular and broad. The chest is deep and full, and the back is barreled and slightly arched. His rounded hips protrude slightly above the level of the back. The stubby tail is thick and either straight or screwed. His short, stocky legs have great muscle definition. They are splayed out and slightly bowed at the elbows and hocks to form a sturdy, base-wide stance. The English bulldog stands about 16 inches tall. The female weighs about 50 pounds 23 kilograms , and the male weighs about 54 pounds 24 kilograms. The English bulldog's skin is loose and pendant with heavy wrinkles and thick folds on the face and a dewlap hanging from the throat. The coat is short and fine textured. The various color patterns are brindle, piebald, and solid white, red, fawn or fallow. Personality: The English bulldog has a sweet, gentle disposition. Dependable and predictable, the bulldog is a wonderful family pet and loving to most children. People-oriented as a breed, they actively solicit human attention. However, they have retained the courage that was originally bred into them for bull baiting, so they make fine watchdogs. Although they generally get along well with other family pets, English bulldogs can be aggressive to unfamiliar dogs. Living With: English bulldogs make fine apartment pets and do not require a yard. Typically low-endurance dogs, they need only a moderate amount of exercise. They thrive best in temperate climates; they readily overheat and have breathing difficulties in hot weather, and they chill easily in cold temperatures. Generally loud breathers, English bulldogs tend to snore and wheeze. Many drool as well. They are moderate shedders and their short coats require little grooming. However, the wrinkles on the face should be wiped regularly to prevent skin infections. History: Named for its use in the sport of bull baiting, the English bulldog seems to have originated in the British Isles sometime prior to the 13th century. One of the few references to the sport dates back to , and talks about a butcher's dogs that chased a bull through the English town of Stamford. This pursuit so pleased the earl of the town that he inaugurated bull baiting as a sport in his domain. Today, the English bulldog makes a fine family pet. The AKC recognizes the breed simply as the bulldog. Related Pet Care Articles. Medium History of the Bulldog In 13th-century England, the bulldog was used as a fighting dog in a gruesome sport known as bull-baiting. During this period, bulldogs looked and acted very different than they do today. In particular, they were much fiercer—not suitable pets in the least. After blood sports like bull baiting were outlawed in England, bulldogs were out of a job, but some bulldog lovers sought to save the breed. With some judicious breeding, the bulldog was toned down into the slow, ambling, sweet, and loving pet we know and love today. Bulldog Care When exercising and training your bulldog, keep these important considerations in mind. The bulldog is extremely susceptible to heatstroke. Use fans, shade, and cooling pads, and provide access to cool drinking water. Bulldogs like daily walks—no more than 20 to 30 minutes, though—and some crave more brisk exercise like off-leash fetch or romping at the dog park. Some superstar bulldogs even excel at competitive dog sports like obedience and agility. Brief brushing sessions two or three times a week will get rid of any loose hairs and leave the coat looking and feeling great. The deep wrinkles require special care—clean them using a cotton swab or cotton ball dipped in hydrogen peroxide and follow up with an application of cornstarch to keep them dry. Clean the ears once a week with a pet-safe ear cleanser and trim the nails weekly, as well. Bathe your bulldog monthly or when it gets dirty. Training Bulldogs can be difficult to train as the breed can certainly be stubborn, but you only have to look to one of the famous skateboarding or surfing bulldogs to see that they are definitely capable of learning. You just need to find the right motivation. Positive-reinforcement methods like clicker training work best. Some common health issues seen in bulldogs include: Breathing Problems: Because this breed has brachycephalic syndrome , it is susceptible to stenotic nares and an elongated soft palate. Eye Disorders: This breed is prone to keratoconjunctivitis sicca dry eye , entropion , ectropion, cherry eye , and distichiasis. Ventricular Septal Defect : This birth defect results in a hole in the wall separating the lower heart chambers. Orthopedic Disorders: This breed is prone to canine hip dysplasia , shoulder luxation, elbow dysplasia , and patellar luxation. Internalized Tail: Other names for this problem include screw tail and corkscrew tail. It refers to an inherited condition where the vertebrae form an abnormality that spirals downward, resulting in anal obstruction or other serious challenges. Due to the multitude of health problems that occur commonly in the breed, vet bills can be quite high throughout the lifetime of a bulldog, a serious consideration when deciding to become a bulldog owner. Their love of food can cause some to eat more than they should and put on too much weight , which adds stress to their joints. Work with your veterinarian to determine how much your bulldog should be eating daily, and feed measured meals at scheduled times. Leaving food out all the time free feeding or eyeballing the amounts instead of using a measuring cup can pack on the pounds. Where to Adopt or Buy a Bulldog Bulldogs are unique in that they nearly always give birth via Cesarean section due to the construction of their bodies. This means bulldog puppies can be pricey. Many adult bulldogs are available for adoption through various rescue and adoption groups. If you have your heart set on a puppy, the best way to locate a bulldog breeder is to contact the following sources: Bulldog Club of America : The national club for the breed which maintains a breeder referral list and also a rescue referral program. Dog domestic dog The Bulldog is a British breed of dog of mastiff type. It may also be known as the English Bulldog or British Bulldog. It is a medium-sized, muscular dog of around 40—55 lb 18—25 kg. They have large heads with thick folds of skin around the face and shoulders, and a relatively flat face with a protruding lower jaw. The breed has significant health issues as a consequence of breeding for its distinctive appearance, including brachycephalia , hip dysplasia , heat sensitivity, and skin infections. Due to concerns about their quality of life, breeding Bulldogs is illegal in Norway and the Netherlands. The modern Bulldog was bred as a companion dog from the Old English Bulldog , a now-extinct breed used for bull-baiting , when the sport was outlawed in England under the Cruelty to Animals Act. While often used as a symbol of ferocity and courage, modern Bulldogs are generally friendly, amiable dogs. Bulldogs are now commonly kept as pets; in it was in twelfth place on a list of the breeds most frequently registered worldwide. The first reference to the word "Bulldog" is dated or in a letter by a man named Preswick Eaton where he writes: "procuer mee two good Bulldogs, and let them be sent by ye first shipp". This entailed the setting of dogs after placing wagers on each dog onto a tethered bull. The dog that grabbed the bull by the nose and pinned it to the ground would be the victor. It was common for a bull to maim or kill several dogs at such an event, either by goring, tossing, or trampling over them. Over the centuries, dogs used for bull-baiting developed the stocky bodies and massive heads and jaws that typify the breed, as well as a ferocious and savage temperament. Bull-baiting was made illegal in England by the Cruelty to Animals Act .However, emigrants did have a use for such dogs in the New World. In midth century New York, Bulldogs were used as a part of a citywide roundup effort led by Governor Richard Nicolls. Because cornering and leading wild bulls was dangerous, Bulldogs were trained to seize a bull by its nose long enough for a rope to be secured around its neck. Rockstro founded the first Bulldog Club. Three years after its opening the Club ceased to exist, not having organized a single show. Samuel Wickens, treasurer of the club, published this description in under the pseudonym Philo-Kuan. The first English Bulldog entered into the register was a male dog named Adam Adamo , born in .The founders of the club collected all available information about the breed and its best representatives and developed a new standard for the English Bulldog, which was published on 27 May , the same year they held the first breed show. Since , exhibitions of the club were held annually, except during the Second World War. On 17 May , the Bulldog Club was granted the status of a corporation and since then has carried the official name "The Bulldog Club, Inc. It is the oldest mono-breed dog kennel club in the world. King Orry was reminiscent of the original Bulldogs, lighter boned and very athletic. Dock Leaf was smaller and heavier set, more like modern Bulldogs. King Orry was declared the winner that year, finishing the mile 32 km walk while Dock Leaf collapsed and expired. Although not as physically capable as their ancestors, modern Bulldogs are much calmer and less aggressive. Note the "rope" over the nose, and pronounced underbite Bulldogs have characteristically wide heads and shoulders along with a pronounced mandibular prognathism. There are generally thick folds of skin on the brow; round, black, wide-set eyes; a short muzzle with characteristic folds called a rope or nose roll above the nose; hanging skin under the neck; drooping lips and pointed teeth, and an underbite with an upturned jaw. The coat is short, flat, and sleek with colours of red, fawn, white, brindle , and piebald. In the United Kingdom, the breed standards are 55 lb 25 kg for a male and 50 lb 23 kg for a female. These attributes should be countenanced by the expression and behavior". Bulldogs are recognized as excellent family pets because of their tendency to form strong bonds with children. At five to six years old, they start to show signs of aging. Those that died of old age had an average lifespan of 10 to 11 years. Left to right, the skulls are from approximately the s, s, and s. A study by the Royal Veterinary College found that Bulldogs are a much less healthy breed than average, with over twice the odds of being diagnosed with at least one of the common dog disorders investigated in the study. A degree of BOAS has been normalized in the breed, as an inevitable consequence of their distinctive face. Since dogs regulate heat primarily by panting, Bulldogs are very sensitive to heat; they may actually gain rather than lose heat due to their inefficient breathing, leading to a vicious cycle. Bulldogs must be given plenty of shade and water, and must be kept out of standing heat. If not properly exercised it is possible for a Bulldog to become overweight, which could lead to heart and lung problems, as well as stress on the joints. These cause the dog some discomfort, but are treatable either by vet or an experienced owner. Other problems can include cherry eye , a protrusion of the inner eyelid which can be corrected by a veterinarian , allergies , and hip issues in older Bulldogs. Due to the high volume of skin folds on the Bulldog's body, they have high prevalence of skin-fold dermatitis. Opposed by the British Bulldog Breed Council, it was speculated by the press that the changes would lead to a smaller head, fewer skin folds, a longer muzzle, and a taller thinner posture, in order to combat problems with respiration and breeding due to head size and width of shoulders. Among these is a fitness test where the dog has to walk 1 km 0. Its temperature and heart rate has to recover after 15 minutes. They are often used as mascots by universities, sports team, and other organizations. Vocality level 1 in 5 Disclaimer: While the characteristics mentioned here may frequently represent this breed, dogs are individuals whose personalities and appearances will vary. Please consult the adoption organization for details on a specific pet. He is willing to please, although he retains a stubborn streak. He is very good with children. Most are moderately friendly toward strangers. Although some can be aggressive with strange dogs, the breed is quite good with other pets. Upkeep The Bulldog appreciates a daily outing but cannot tolerate hot humid weather, which can be deadly. He should not be expected to jog or walk great distances, or to jump from any heights. Most Bulldogs cannot swim. Most Bulldogs wheeze and snore, and some drool. Coat care is minimal, but facial wrinkles and any folds around the tail should be cleaned daily. Special precautions must be taken when anesthetizing a Bulldog. Caesarean deliveries are commonly needed. Hip radiographs show most Bulldogs to be dysplastic but few show overt symptoms. History With the most distinctive mug in dogdom, the Bulldog has an equally distinctive history. Some Bulldogs were also set against bears for bear baiting, purely for entertainment. In , bull baiting was outlawed, and a new phase began for the Bulldog. By all rights, the breed should have become extinct, except that it had gained so many ardent admirers that they set out to rescue the Bulldog by selecting against ferocity while still maintaining—and often accentuating—its distinctive physical characteristics. Its tough steadfast persona led it to be identified as a national symbol of England. Its amiable clownish personality belies its appearance, and the Bulldog is a popular pet. Related Content. Life Span Did You Know? The loving and gentle English Bulldog is one of the most well-liked companion dog breeds around the world. A breed of English origins, the Bulldog was first recognized as a non-sporting dog by the American Kennel Club in .The original use of this breed was Bull baiting, which was eventually outlawed with the establishment of the Cruelty to Animals Act of .This legislative act made the act of Bull and Bear baiting both illegal. The current role most suitable for the English Bulldog would be as a companion or family pet, given their sweet demeanor. The English Bulldog is relatively easy to train but definitely takes some work for more complicated commands. If you are looking for a breed to sit, stay, and play dead for treats, this is the breed for you. While they may not be the sharpest tool in the shed compared to some of the other highly intelligent breeds, they are easy going and apt to please their owner. Training this breed will be accomplished with less difficulty if you make the training reward based. Can you say Sweetheart? While this dog breed makes an above average watchdog because of their courage, this breed is a loving companion at heart. The Bulldog is excellent with kids when socialized and should be very agreeable with guests of the house. The English Bulldog breed as a whole is heralded as one of the most well liked companion breeds in the world. The Bulldog should do well with other family pets as long as properly introduced and socialized. They need to be socialized early and often to curb any negative feelings towards strange dogs. This breed is generally agreeable to most environments. Although they easily adapt to a noisy and chaotic household, they are not very tolerant of extreme weather, whether it be hot or cold. Although they are well liked and very popular, one must be aware of the potential health pitfalls with this breed. Some of the potential issues you can see with the English Bulldog is Cherry Eye, Entropion, or dysplasia. This breed also has a high risk for weight gain, so this should be monitored. An average Bulldog life span is between 8 and 12 years. You do not need to be a professional dog trainer to own an English Bulldog. They are good for most novice owners because they are passive by nature. The English Bulldog is an average shedder, so brushing him twice a week with a firm brush will be a good idea. Also, they can have a tendency to drool, so making sure you wipe their face off everyday can help ensure they do not suffer irritation on their faces and between their wrinkles. Because of the amount of wrinkles they have, it is recommended that you clean between the wrinkles fairly often to avoid irritations. The English Bulldog is a generally low energy breed. They do not require a lot of exercise, but when they do play, they play hard! Because they can be intense when they do have an energy burst, an owner must be aware of overexertion. They can be very playful, but do tend to tire out quickly. The English Bulldog is a short, stocky breed that should weigh between pounds. This dog breed generally lives for years. Presidents Calvin Coolidge and Warren G. Harding both owned English Bulldogs. Featured English Bulldog Article.
We may earn money or products from the companies mentioned in this post. White Labradors are a very attractive and distinctive looking dog. But are White Labradors really Labradors? Are they healthy and happy pooches or does their pale color result in health problems? Read on to learn everything you need to know about these wonderful dogs and why most of them make excellent family pets or show pooches. He did have some qualities that I thought were different from the many Labs I raised over the years, but I would not consider it outside the norm for a Labrador Retriever. Different Types Of White Labradors On the most basic level, white Labradors are Labradors that have a coat that is white, or almost white, in color. But their coat takes on this unusual pigment for a Labrador for a number of different reasons. These dogs are the same as all other Labs; it is just that both of their parents had the right genes to give them a coat that approaches white. They will have the same black or brown nose and eyes as other Labs, as well as the same intelligence and temperament. They will also face the same health risks, but no additional ones due to the color of their coat. Yellow Labradors come in a range of colors, from fox red, to golden, to cream, and of course, white. White is just another natural variation within the spectrum. White Labrador dogs are usually specifically created by breeders, who have been broadening the color range of Yellow Labradors for decades in order to widen their market. White Labradors are more likely to be English Labradors than American Labradors because of the history of the breeding. This means they will also have the stockier, broader look of the English Lab. Albino Labradors Unlike Yellow Labradors with a white coat, which are healthy dogs that do not differ from their darker colored brothers and sisters, some White Labradors are the result of albinism. This is a genetic condition universal throughout the animal kingdom, but rare in dogs, affecting maybe one in every 20, The result is a pooch that has white hair and extremely pale skin. They are usually easily distinguishable from Yellow Labs that are white as they will also lack pigment in their eyes and nose. Their eyes are often a distinctive red color, though they can also be blue. Albino Labradors often develop health problems as a result of their lack of pigmentation. They are very susceptible to sun damage, which can easily result in tumors and skin cancer. Their eyes are also very sensitive to the sun and can easily become damaged. They are also often born blind or suffer from eye deformities. It can sometimes be difficult to distinguish these pups from albino dogs, but they will have normal eye color. This condition is also relatively rare among Labradors, as it is a recessive trait. It can come with similar health concerns as the areas of the skin that lack pigment can also be easily damaged by the sun. But they are not at the same risk as far as the eyes are concerned. Silver Labrador White Labradors should also not be confused with Silver Labradors , which occurs as a result of the dilution of the darker pigment of black or brown dogs. They can be registered with the Kennel Club as Chocolate Labradors, but they are excluded from shows. But just like Yellow Labradors with a white coat, these Chocolate Labradors with a silver coat are natural within the color range of Labradors and they do not have different personality traits or health conditions as the result of the color of their coat. Considering this, and the fact that White Labradors are relatively rare among Yellow Labradors, they are not always easy to come across. To find a White Labrador, you will need to speak with a breeder that has chosen color as one of the traits for which they are controlling. However, it is not advisable to work with a breeder who is only or primarily controlling for color, as health and temperament are still more important features in a dog than color. Bear in mind that English Labs look different; they tend to be stockier and broader in the chest and face. They also have different personalities. They tend to be more playful and silly, but have less energy. They have become very popular dogs on the show circuit, while their silly and friendly personality makes them great family pets. It can be difficult to tell if a Lab will grow to be a true White Lab when they are a puppy, as lots of Yellow Labradors are born with a very pale coat, which gets darker as they age. Of course, while seeking out a white Yellow Labrador might be something you want, seeking out an Albino Lab or even a Leucistic Lab is not advisable because of the related health conditions. However, that is not to say there are not Albino Labs out there that need someone to adopt them and give them a loving home. American Or English Labrador? As seeking out a White Labrador probably means choosing between an American and an English Labrador , it is worth considering the differences between the two. Both dogs are friendly, good-natured, and companionable, and also intelligent and highly trainable. This is why they make excellent companion dogs and working dogs. But both were originally bred as retrievers. American Labs are those that have been bred for working, while English Labradors have been bred for conformation, which means they have been bred to more exactly align with the definition of the species, which is why they are an excellent choice for show dogs. They are called English Labradors because they are significantly more common in the UK. Meanwhile, you guessed it, the working-style Labrador is more common in the USA. But, while this is how the breeds are characterized, this is far from prescriptive, and you will often encounter English Labs as working dogs and American Labs competing in shows. So, these are not strict definitions but rather a useful guide to help you distinguish between the two extremes of the breed. They are all registered as Labrador Retrievers with the Kennel Club. That said, there are some key differences to look out for. American Labs are usually a bit taller, ranging from .This height difference results because American Labs tend to have longer legs, while English Labs are stockier. But American Labs are also heavier than their English brothers and sisters, ranging from 70 to pounds, while English Labs are usually between 60 and 85 pounds. The appearance of the two dogs is also different. English Labs tend to look heavier and more substantial, with a barrel chest. They also have a wider head and a fuller face with a shorter muzzle. The neck is thicker, and so is their coat so they also shed a bit more. American Labs also tend to have more energy than English Labs, and as a result, it is often thought a firmer hand is needed to keep American Labs under control. For this reason, they are often considered better as working dogs, and when they move into the home, they need a very active family. Because English Labs are considered calmer and quieter, they are more versatile as a family dog and also easier to train for shows. I would consider him an American Lab based on looks although his breeder said he had both American and English in his ancestry. His energy level was closer to that of an American Lab, but his goofy temperament more closely resembled an English Lab. Yes, White Labradors are very rare. Albinism is extremely rare in dogs, affecting maybe one in every 20, White Labradors that are pale Yellow Labradors are also rare. White Labs are at the extreme color range available for these pooches, and it is required that both parents have and pass on the genes that allow for this extremely light color. Exactly how big your Labrador will get depends on a lot of things, but color is not one of them. As a general rule, if your White Labrador is an American Labrador, you can expect them to weigh between 70 and pounds. English Labradors, while they look stockier, tend to be lighter, between 60 and 85 pounds, They also tend to be smaller than their American brothers and sisters. A healthy White Labrador will have the same life expectancy as the majority of Labrador Retrievers, so about 12 years. However, White Labradors that are Albino will have a significantly lower life expectancy, as they are much more likely to develop serious medical conditions, such as skin cancer and tumors. Are White Labradors Purebred? Yes, White Labradors are purebred dogs within the Yellow Labrador Retriever category, and they can be registered for shows and with the Kennel Association as Yellow Labradors. Do White Labradors Shed? All Labradors shed , and they tend to shed a lot. They have a double coat, which means they have a lot of hair to leave behind. It can be especially challenging in the shedding season, which is Spring and Fall. So, yes, you will be finding those beautiful white hairs all over your home. He definitely shed more than any other dog, Lab or otherwise that we had in our home. Do White Labradors Turn Yellow? Some of the hair of a White Labrador, especially around the tips of the ears, can turn yellow with sun exposure. In addition, many Yellow Labradors may appear white when they are born, but their hair will darken over the first few months of their life. So, you cannot always tell if a Labrador will be white during the first few months of their lives. Final Thoughts When breeders refer to a White Labrador, they are referring to a Yellow Labrador that has been specifically bred to have very pale fur. This is more common among English Labs than American Labs, but they are a naturally occurring phenomenon that occurs from the breeding process. These dogs share all the same wonderful traits as other Labradors. They are friendly and intelligent, and they make excellent family dogs, working dogs, and show dogs. However, these White Labs should not be confused with Albino Labs or Leucistic Labs, which are dogs with rare genetic conditions, meaning they lack pigment in their skin. These dogs can suffer from serious health issues as a result of sun exposure. While there are dogs out there of this variety that need a loving place to call home, it is not the same as adopting a White Labrador. They do need special care and attention. The first time Archer met his new companion was also the first time the little girl ever spoke. Do you have any experience with White Labradors? Share your thoughts with the community in the comments section below. Helps ease anxiety in their new home. We love using Bully Sticks to help divert these unwanted behaviors. For a list of all the supplies we get for our new service dog puppies check out our New Puppy Checklist on the PuppyInTraining. Yellow Labradors have always come in a range of shades. This range has been deliberately broadened in recent years through selective breeding of more muted tones. But despite this, there are only three recognised colors of Labradors — black , chocolate and yellow. Yellow Labs can now be commonly seen ranging from darkest rich fox red, through shades of golden, pale yellow, cream and even white. White Labs and fox red Labs are both classified as yellow Labs. Even though the hues look very different, they are just variations of the same base color. Changes in Trends What is considered desirable or fashionable changes from one decade to the next. And certainly differs between the show and working communities of Labrador breeders. Currently, working or American Labradors prefer the darker shades of yellow, and English Labradors are often much paler. English Labs differ from American or Working bred Labs quite dramatically in terms of their shape and personalities. In general your white English Labrador will be fun loving, a little silly and very sociable with people and other dogs. He might take a little longer to mature than his working bred cousins and may have less of a hyped up drive to retrieve or run around all day. A white English Lab will also often have a broader chest and head, as well as slightly shorter legs. The Albino Labrador Albinism is an interesting trait that is found throughout the animal kingdom. It is caused by a gene which switches off coloring. Albino Labs will have white hair or fur, and pale skin. They may also have red eyes, although very pale blue eyes can also be seen in some albinos when some pigmentation remains. True albinism in dogs is rare, and it is not a desirable trait as unfortunately it comes with health problems. Albino Lab Health Albino Labs can suffer from sensitive skin. This is an issue that leaves them particularly vulnerable to sun and heat damage. Not only can an albino Lab be easily sunburnt, the sun can also damage his eyes. This vulnerability can make these dogs prone to tumors and skin cancer. Many Albino dogs are born blind, or suffer from eye deformities. Fortunately, a white Lab is almost always not actually an albino Lab. It is actually just a very pale version of a yellow Labrador. White Labrador Retrievers will have pigmented noses and dark eyes, as well as distinctive white fur. Their fur will almost always contain touches of cream or yellow, especially around the ears. A white Lab puppy will often have yellow ears. Finding a White Labrador Puppy White Lab puppies will come from parents who have the genes for yellow coat color, and who have been selectively bred to have the palest version of this color. In a litter of puppies the shades of color can range just as dramatically as they do in adulthood. Some pups can look far more orange and others will be at the paler end. Puppy coats will also change color as they grow. So white Lab puppies may appear more or less pale when they mature. Even if you love white Labradors, remember that the most important thing about a puppy is their personality and their health. As with any puppy search, the way to find a white Lab puppy is to look for a litter of Labradors bred in a way that is appropriate for the breed. White Labrador Retriever Breeders If white Lab puppies appeal to you, then make sure that the breeder has not focused on color to the detriment of health or temperament. Color should always be a secondary consideration when breeding a litter or choosing your puppy. First make sure that all of the other boxes are ticked, and that you are happy with your breeder. Make sure both parents are fully health tested. For Labradors this will mean low hip and elbow scores, and clear eye tests as a minimum. Think of the Type of Labrador If you want a pup to show in the ring, then go to an established show breeder who will be able to help you select the best pup for your purpose. If you are looking for a family pet, make sure both parents are treasured members of the family too. When buying any Labrador puppy, making sure the breeder is a good breeder is key. Here is some more information on how to find a good breeder, for any color of Labrador. The main ones which Labrador owners deal with are regarding potty training and biting. You can find lots of information on dealing with both of these common issues in our extensive Puppies Section. Bringing a new puppy home is a big decision. If you have any doubts about whether you are ready for a Labrador check out this article to help make the right choice.
golden retriever puppies for sale san francisco - A corner of the living room, dining room or other area where family regularly gathers is an ideal location. Crate location is particularly important at night, especially for young puppies who often need to go out for a potty trip at least once before morning. Keep one in the common area where your pup will hang out during the day, and one where they sleep at night. How to Crate Train a Dog: Step by Step One of the secrets to kennel training success is giving your dog plenty of time to feel comfortable inside the crate before closing the door and leaving them alone for the first time. Spend as much time as you need on each step to ensure that your dog feels content and stress-free. Ready to dive into crate training? You can also entice your dog with a busy toy stuffed with treats—anything to make that crate as appealing as possible! Stay happy and upbeat as your puppy explores the crate, making sure to give lots of praise when they go inside. At this stage, keep the door open. Practice this step as many times as necessary for your dog to get comfortable in the crate. At this stage, the choice to go into the crate is up to your pup. If your dog is hesitant to go inside, you can give treats to reward baby steps in the right direction, like if they glance at it or take a step towards it. These small successes will encourage your pup to keep it up! Then, provide a lightly stuffed busy toy for them to enjoy inside the crate. Stay nearby as they enjoy the goodies, and experiment with closing the door while your pup is enjoying the toys and treats inside. Let your dog out right after they finish the treats, or at any barking, whimpering or pawing at the crate that might indicate they want to come out. Again, keep at this step until your dog seems relaxed and shows no signs of stress inside the crate. Listen at the door for whines or barks that tell you your pup is ready to come out. But at this stage, your dog may surprise you by settling into the crate easily. In fact, if you time your play session, potty break and crate time properly, you might just return to discover a napping pup in the crate! If your pup remains content inside, try leaving the house for a short period of time. This is especially important for puppies, whose "hold time" is still developing. Doing so might force them to soil inside. That means a 4-month-old puppy can hold it for about four hours. Remember, play and excitement can make your pup need to go out more frequently, too. For adult dogs, avoid crating them for more than four hours. That means that you should plan for a mid-day break if you'll be leaving your dog crated during the work day. Feeding your dog's meals in their crate with the door open can help to make it a positive spot. The crate should never be used for punishment. Check out our tips on dealing with dog separation anxiety and puppy separation anxiety in particular, and talk to your vet for advice tailored to your unique pup. Read More. She is awesome! We love her dearly, I am the main care giver, my name is Marlette. The question is we have been consistent with Charlotte about sleeping in her cage, not with us. This is one Poodle who hates her cage. She does not bark or wine long but she does not sleep well in her cage. She gets up at in the morning and soon after wants to sleep during the day when she sits with me. I know this because I check her to see if she needs to go potty. After I find out she's okay she runs to my bedroom stands at the side of my bed I still put her back in her cage. It is so hard! I put a blanket, toys, treats but she would rather be with me then go to her cage. My husband thinks I hold her to much, I do feel she wants time with me in the day time and I am most happy to play, cuddle, train her then knowing she was in her cage all night. Charlotte only takes an afternoon nap in her cage. Charlotte loves to be with me if I leave the room she looks for me follows me everywhere. Could this be the problem? Answer: Hello There! This is one of the Poodle's most endearing qualities and it is why so many people choose to have a Poodle. Poodles love to be with their human family members and can become quite sad and despondent if they are not allowed to be close to their human. There definitely needs to be some adjustments to how things are being handled at night. However in regard to spending time with her during the day, there is no such thing as too much time with a dog. You are not spoiling your Poodle by holding her;you are simply giving Charlotte what she naturally needs.However, regarding the cage.There are several elements to consider: 1 You don't say how large or small this cage is; however we are assuming it is a small crate type enclosure. Metal wire cages are just terrible for dogs as the wire grating can cause havoc on paws. And both small crates and cages are too confining for a dog to be in overnight. For your Poodle's comfort, we would suggest choosing a designated area that would hold her dog bed and toys. This can be a small gated off area or an indoor canine playpen. You would leave the entrance to this open when you are home so your Poodle can enter into it when tired and wanting to take a nap and you would close it at night, to keep her secure and in one spot while sleeping. However, there is no reason to check on her as often as you do. Just the sound of you approaching may wake her up; dogs can hear so much better than we can. As you are tiptoeing up to her cage, most likely you think you're being super quiet but she hears you coming. So, from her perspective, she is sleeping or at least resting quietly , you come up to her. She believes that you are initiating interaction, so she in turn runs to your room. But wait! You really didn't intend for that.You put her back in her cage and now she's really confused. Is she supposed to sleep? Is she supposed to wait one more hour until you tiptoe back in? Is it a game.With your Poodle puppy being 4 months old, she can hold her urine for 4 hours. It is important that Charlotte learns to control her bladder as she grows up. At 5 months, she should be able to hold her needs for 5 hours.And then no matter how old she is, 8 hours will be the maximum time that she will be able to hold her bladder. And there is no need for you to be waking up so often. So, as you can see this is really not a matter of your Poodle hating her cage; it is just a matter of mistakenly training her to think she is supposed to keep leaving it to run to your room. As a side note, be sure to take her for a nightly walk about 2 hours before bedtime to tire her out, have the last snack of the day no later than 1. All rights reserved. We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon. Share Us. They prefer a quiet, confined, enclosed area where they feel safe and secure. In fact, the proper use of a crate can help in housetraining, provide secure travel, lower the stress in a dog, keep a dog safe in certain environments, and keep him from damaging his surroundings. Wire crates vary from heavy gauge to lighter weight types which fold and store easily. Wire crates allow total ventilation and enable the dog to see everything in his environment. That visual stimulation may be too much for some dogs. Some dogs may pull or chew on the sheet covering the crate. To avoid this, place a piece of thin plywood on top of the crate. The plywood should be large enough to allow the sheet to hang a distance from the crate where the dog cannot gain access to the sheet. Plastic or metal airline crates are required to ship a dog by air. Most airlines have specific crate requirements for canine shipping, so consult with your airline carrier. An airline-approved crate also offers greater protection to the dog in an accident. Plastic airline crates separate into two halves which can be stacked for storage. They are also safer for small dogs or puppies as there is less chance of a leg, paw or jaw getting caught in the wire. Fabric or soft-sided crates are light weight, fold easily, and are convenient when traveling. A dog must be completely crate trained before you can trust him in a soft-sided crate, because the crate can be chewed through or rolled and moved. For these reasons a soft-sided crate is not recommended for puppies. New crates can be bought in pet shops and discount pet food outlets, from pet catalogs, at dog shows, farm supply stores, department stores, or on the Internet. Be prepared to thoroughly clean and disinfect a previously-owned crate before using it. The price will depend on the size, manufacturer and type. Many come with a removable floor. Some can be ordered with doors on the side or the end, or both. Various kinds of crate pads are available to cushion the bottom of the crate. Most crate pads are washable. Most dogs are very accepting of a crate. Any complaining at first from a puppy is more likely due to adjusting to his new environment and perhaps the loss of his littermates. Place the crate in a room the family uses, such as the kitchen. Keep it out of drafts and away from any blowing hot or cold air vents. Start by feeding the Poodle in the crate. This will make the crate a positive place and enable him to eat without any interference from other dogs or children in the house. Establish a routine. Put him in the crate for naps, when he must be left alone for a few hours, or whenever a responsible person is unable to supervise him. Be sure to remove a collar with tags as it might become caught in an opening or wire grates. Most healthy puppies learn to sleep through the night within a few weeks. Large puppies such as a Standard Poodle can be clean through the night as early as 8 weeks. Smaller puppies may take a bit longer. Housebreaking can be achieved more quickly if the owner is consistent about using a crate routine. Keep the pup crated for as long as it can hold it, then take the puppy straight outside, giving ample opportunity for the pup to relieve himself. Give the puppy a lot of praise when he eliminates and then take him back inside for at least 15 minutes of free time before going back in the crate. The idea is to build up the amount of time the pup is able to both hold it and remain free in the house by gradually giving the pup longer periods of free time inside the house, then crating for a period of time before letting him back outside. If you find your puppy is soiling the crate pads, towels or blankets in the crate, remove them and keep the bottom clear of any bedding. Some puppies will soil in their crate and hide it in their bedding. If there is no padding, the puppy must sit in his waste. Some puppies are used to eliminating on newspaper, so the use of paper to line the bottom of a crate is not recommended. All crates should be large enough to permit the animal to stretch out flat on his side, stand up and turn around. If you do not know the approximate adult size of your puppy, buy the larger size. For an adult dog, use a crate close to his length, measuring from the tip of his nose to the base of the tail. The height and width of the crate will be proportionate to the length. A temporary crate is most convenient for a puppy. Look for a used one. If you must use an adult size crate, make it smaller by placing a large plastic box in the back or making a moveable partition out of wire or wood. Make sure whatever you use is safe and secure if the puppy chews on it. If the crate is too large it is not as effective a tool for housetraining, because the puppy can move away from where he has eliminated. There are very few dogs that will not accept confinement. While more common with adult dogs than puppies, there are a few which seem to show signs of claustrophobia when crated. Before giving up, try a different kind of crate. If, despite every effort to use positive methods, the dog is obviously frantic or panicked, it is inhumane to continue its use. These dogs can do physical damage to themselves trying to escape. It is always worth trying, however. In most cases, use of a crate will prevent or solve undesirable behaviors, enhancing the relationship you have with your dog. A dog crate is not recommended as a method of confinement for a dog regularly left alone all day, although some dogs may learn to tolerate it. If necessary on a temporary basis, the dog must be well exercised before and after crating. Additionally, he will need extensive personal attention when you are home and freedom during the night rather than being crated again at bedtime. It is also very important that the crate is large enough so he can stand erect and stretch out fully on his side. An oversized crate is recommended. It must also have a non-spill water dish. Ideally, someone will come during the day to provide a time for elimination and exercise. An exercise pen x-pen can be attached to the front of each side of a crate, allowing the dog or puppy more room to move about while still being confined and providing a space outside the crate for him to eliminate. For puppies, a crate can be used as a playpen for general confinement. It should be large enough for a sleeping space with bedding at one end and a papered area for elimination at the other. Again, a water dish must be provided. Be aware that a puppy raised in isolation may suffer from lack of socialization, leading to difficulties in training, housetraining, and poor social skills with other people and dogs. Dogs are social creatures, and a puppy that lacks sufficient human contact will grow up to be a poorly-adjusted dog and pet. You can leave your dog home alone, knowing he will not damage your belongings. He is protected, comfortable, and unable to get into trouble. Housetraining is easier as the close confinement encourages cleanliness and control. You can establish a regular routine for your dog and prevent accidents in the house. You can keep the dog from being underfoot or in the way during meals, prevent him from wandering outside when people might leave outside doors open, or when he becomes over-stimulated and needs time to calm down. You can travel with your dog knowing that he cannot get loose in the car or escape if a door is open and that he cannot distract the He is safely confined for his protection in an accident, and he has the comfort of familiar surroundings when away from home. If you plan to show your dog in performance venues such as agility or obedience, it is essential that the dog be crate trained. Your dog needs a quiet place to relax while at the show. Simply lead the dog to the crate, put him in, and close the door. He has his own space, a den, where he can retire when tired, stressed, or needing to escape too much attention from children in the household. He can avoid the consequences of undesirable behaviors that have been prevented. He can more easily learn to control his bodily functions. He can remain in proximity to the family when supervision is impossible instead of being banished to the garage or yard. He can be included in family outings and trips rather than being left home or at a boarding kennel. Feeling secure in a crate will lessen his anxiety when he has to be crated at the vet or groomer. Accustoming your dog to a crate makes shipping the dog much less stressful. You want a well-mannered pet, and your dog wants to please you. A dog crate can accomplish this for you both. Additionally, the cost of a crate is minor compared to the expense of replacing furniture, carpeting, or veterinary bills from your dog eating inappropriate and harmful objects. This information has been provided to you at no charge. You are free to use it provided it is used in its entirety with no changes or alterations and that the copyright remains intact. If you have found this information to be helpful, please consider making a tax-deductible donation to: Versatility in Poodles Franklin, NC To make a donation via PayPal, please click the Donate Button: The contents of the www. The Content is not intended to be a substitute for professional veterinarian advice, diagnosis, or treatment. Always seek the advice of your veterinarian with any questions you may have regarding the medical condition of your pet. Never disregard professional advice or delay in seeking it because of something you have read on this website! If you think your pet has a medical emergency, call or visit your veterinarian or your local veterinary emergency hospital immediately. Versatility in Poodles and www. Reliance on any information appearing on this website is entirely at your own risk. Menu Start Right Away! The most wonderful tool available for helping you train your puppy is a crate. After all Canines are den animals. If the crate gives your puppy just enough space to sleep comfortably, he probably will not want to use the crate as a potty area. That means that when you cannot directly supervise your puppy you can keep him in his crate, knowing that he will instinctively control himself when in the crate — as long as you do not leave him in there longer than his little puppy bladder can handle! If you leave a puppy in a crate for more than a couple of hours at a time, you are setting him up for failure. If you take him out often you will give him the opportunity to get it right. That is the GOAL!!! If you take him out on a regular schedule this will be discussed under House-Training , you will have even better success. When purchasing a crate there are two things to consider. The ultimate size of your dog. Our Standard Poodles tend to range from 45 to 55 pounds and stand 22 to 25 inches high at the shoulder. Unless you are going to be buying different crate sizes as the puppy grows, it is best to buy a crate with a divider. My recommendation is that you look at www. They come with a divider. Your puppy has already been introduced to the crate. So Crate Training should begin immediately upon your arrival home. There are numerous training aids which provide guidance in this area. However, since it is important to begin a training routine immediately, the following basic tips will give you a start: Never push or shove your puppy into the crate Never use the crate as a means of punishment Coax your puppy in with toys or a treat Reward your puppy with lots of praise and another treat Also note: Do not leave your new puppy alone in the crate for more than 2 or 3 hours during the day. Your puppy will need to relieve itself often. Because they do not naturally like to soil their sleeping area this works in your favor for potty training. They will whine or bark so you can quickly take them outside. In this way the puppy learns to tell you when it needs to go outside and you should show your approval. This may be a little challenging at first when the puppy seems to whine to want out of the crate. You have to set the pace as to what whine or bark you will accept. Do not give in to every whine or bark. If possible place the crate in your bedroom at night until your puppy feels secure. This also allows for you to hear its whine when it needs to go outside to potty. Use old towels or blankets for bedding to begin with. For the first few nights placing something of yours with your scent on it will help your puppy feel more comfortable and secure. Soon your puppy will be sleeping through the night. You establish the times for going to sleep and waking up. Be consistent. Thereafter do not place anything in the crate until his potty training is well under way. The idea here is that if your puppy has an accident he will be wet and uncomfortable until you come to rescue him. When your puppy is dry and clean for two weeks straight then you can try giving him a towel and see how he does. When possible leave the door open during the daytime in a restricted area so that the puppy can go in and out at will. The crate is not only used to help you house-break your puppy but also to help you establish yourself as leader and set clear limits for your young puppy. A puppy that is not crated gets into lots of expensive trouble before he is full grown. Dogs do not suddenly outgrow destructive chewing and getting into things, so it is best that they never learn that they can chew or destroy furniture or other valuables. More helpful hints: The rule for puppies between seven to fourteen weeks old is that they are in their crate more than they are out. When they are out they are confined to a puppy-proof area and under close supervision. If no one is available to watch, the puppy does not receive freedom. Remember, your puppy is a baby and also needs a lot of sleep and down time. When he is out of his crate he is usually in overdrive, playing hard. After about fourteen weeks you can start to be a little less vigilant and see how it goes. If your puppy is getting into trouble back up and limit his time out to supervision time only. Gradually work toward having your puppy out for longer and longer periods of time without him getting into trouble. Also, do not give him the run of the house. Start in a small area and as he earns your trust widen the area he is allowed to be in. As he gets close to a year old you can gradually leave your puppy out longer while you are home with less supervision. However, make sure you check on him frequently to be sure that he is not getting into trouble. Crate him when you leave the house, at least for the first eighteen to twenty-four months of his life. Remember, he is not considered full grown until he is two years old. When your Poodle has proven that he is trustworthy while you are home, you can then allow him out of his crate while you are out. Start with short periods of time. Eventually, when he can handle small amounts of time, you can extend his free times to longer and longer periods, until he can be home alone several hours of the day. To prevent future behavior problems by giving privileges too soon, your puppy should sleep in a crate from day one. The crate can be in your room, but your puppy should not be allowed to sleep with you. Using a crate is an excellent way to ensure that your puppy will not destroy something valuable. Be sure also to have lots of hard chew toys available for him to chew on. Dogs that are given too much freedom too soon are bound to get into trouble and learn to be destructive. Many behaviorists and dog trainers agree that separation anxiety can be triggered by failing to set boundaries and limit freedom when a dog is young. A young dog that does not get too much freedom too soon can learn to be alone without becoming destructive. Before we go any further we want you to know that the training of your puppy has already started. The mother of the puppies start training her babies right away. It is a delight to watch her gentle but firm ways. One thing she teaches them is about keeping there eating and sleeping areas clean. Here at Poodle Mojo we aid the mother in the natural training process and then we continue the process so your puppy comes to you already potty and crate trained. It is up to you to know how and to continue in their training. Remember… In order to house train your puppy successfully you must crate train your puppy. If you are buying your puppy from us it will have already been introduced to the crate. Yes, we have heard some people say that a crate is cruel. Well, these people think dogs are people instead of canines. Dogs are den creatures. They like a safe place to be able to go to. They also like their own place. If you have to relate in people terms, well then, you have a house and you have a bedroom. Some of you also have your favorite chair. The first training priority for most new puppy owners is house-training. This is definitely job number one for any puppies living with humans. Therefore, the key to this process is to reward your puppy when he does what you want, and to keep him from ever making a mistake. Supervision is the KEY in this process. Young puppies do certain things when they are getting ready to relieve themselves. Typically, they begin to sniff the ground while moving constantly, sometimes in a circle, looking for a good spot. Until your puppy is well trained, go outside with him. The right spot should be a spot that you always take him to until he can go out by himself. The Schedule The most effective house-training is a combination of crate training and schedule feeding and potty training. And remember consistency is the key to success. Here is an example of a potty schedule for an 8 week old puppy: am — Potty. Fit the non-slip crate liner and add a comfy, cozy mat or bed. Provide your puppy with tasty treats and a couple of chew toys to tempt him inside the crate. A bowl of water is also essential that you can offer your puppy. Finally, you need to fasten the crate door open to prevent your furbaby from hurting himself if he bumps into it. Cut off a small piece of the blanket, and put it into the crate, wrapped up in the bedding. Keep the remaining piece of blanket somewhere safe and dry. You can now allow the puppy to investigate the crate. Poodles are curious, intelligent dogs, and you might even find that your pup goes into the crate immediately to eat the tasty treats inside. Poodles are clever pups who learn simple cue words pretty quickly, making your life much easier. You can begin using verbal cues from the get-go. Crate Feeding Crate feeding your Poodle can be a fantastic training technique, especially for shy, reluctant pups. Make a big deal out of dishing out the food so that your puppy gets excited. Now, put the bowl of yummy food just inside the door of the crate, out of reach of your puppy so that he has to go into the crate to get his meal. Next time you feed your puppy in the crate, move the bowl further back inside the cage. Eventually, your puppy should happily spend his meal times contained in his crate. Shut The Door Hopefully, your Poodle puppy will now view the crate as somewhere safe where he can enjoy his meals. Start by closing the crate door while your puppy is eating his meal. Be ready to open the door again as soon as the little guy finishes his meal. The idea is to keep your pet confined for around five minutes, but let your puppy out before he begins complaining. You should expect a small amount of whinging at this stage in the training process. If your pup starts complaining, turn around the ignore him. Once the puppy is quiet and calm again, you can turn around and open the crate door. If your puppy begins panicking and is distressed, open the door, and take a few steps back in the training process. Ignore the undesirable behavior, and wait until your pet desists and is calm again. Close The Door For Longer Periods If all is going well, you can start increasing the amount of time your puppy is confined to his crate. At this stage, your Poodle should be able to spend an hour or so in the crate before you let him out for a potty stop and some outdoor time. Potty Breaks Remember that your puppy must feel safe and comfortable when in his crate. So, you need to give your puppy some outdoor time every couple of hours and let him outside as soon as he comes out of the crate. Remember to factor in some bonding time after your puppy has relieved himself and before you put him back into his crate. After a month or so, you should expect your Poodle puppy to tell you when he needs to go out by heading directly to the door. By the six-month mark, your pup should be able to wait for around four to six hours before he needs to pee. Never expect your dog to wait for over eight hours before he has a chance to go to the bathroom! Clean Up Immediately! Unfortunately, accidents are inevitable when potty training your puppy, no matter how careful you are. Bad behavior issues can easily develop if your puppy becomes resentful of spending time in his crate. If the accident is outside the crate, clean your flooring thoroughly with an enzyme cleaning product. You must also clean the crate thoroughly to remove every trace of potty smell. Here are some harmful mistakes that you want to avoid. Never use the crate to punish your dog! Remember To Give Your Puppy Regular Breaks Very young puppies have extremely small bladders, so you need to remember to take your puppy outside for a bathroom break every two hours at first. The dog is a pretty hygienic animal, so you must not leave your puppy too long so that he has an accident in his crate, which would distress your pet and risk him associating his crate with bathroom spots. You must not expect an adult dog to wait for more than four to six hours before you take him outside for a bathroom break. You also need to socialize your puppy to be a well-adjusted, well-balanced dog. Final Thoughts I hope you enjoyed our guide to crate training your Poodle puppy? Please share the article if you do. Your Poodle should regard his crate as a safe spot where he can go when he needs to chill out and relax. The crate is also a useful tool for potty training your puppy and keeping your pet safe when you leave him home alone. Did you crate train your Poodle puppy successfully? How did it go? Tell us how you got on in the comments box below. Meet our writer Alison Page Alison Page was brought up with dogs and various other pets! For a few years, Alison worked as a Practice Manager in a small animal veterinary clinic. Alison is now a full-time writer, specializing in creating articles on the care and training of dogs, cats, and fish. Leave a Comment. There are three different poodle sizes — standard, miniature, and toy. Ranked 7 in breed popularity by the American Kennel Club, this wickedly clever canine breed can quickly be crate trained. How do you crate train standard, miniature, and toy poodles? The crate training process will be a similar process to training any canine breed. You will want to begin when a puppy to establish good habits early on and purchase a crate that is large enough for them to stand up comfortably. To crate train your poodle, no matter their size, you should follow these steps consistently: Introduce your poodle to their crate using positive reinforcement. Place treats and comforting items like blankets and favorite toys in the crate. Begin feeding your pup meals in the crate. Every two hours, take your poodle outside. Make sure that you are bringing them straight from the crate to the door each time. Ensure that every time the crate door is opened, you bring your puppy outside. Be mindful of giving your poodle adequate playtime and bonding time with you. Continue these steps until your puppy always goes to the door when they need to potty. This article will answer any questions you have about crate training, potty training, house training, and creating a better-behaved dog. It will cover each size variation and the details you need to know in caring for each unique poodle breed. Crate training can seem intimidating at first, but with a brilliant breed like the poodle, it will be a piece of cake! The process designates a safe space for your pup and instills in your poodle that, when they leave the crate, it is for a potty break. You may find it difficult or unsettling to leave your pup in a crate, especially during the first few weeks that they are home, and you want to cuddle and love your new poodle. However, establishing a routine as soon as possible will be the fastest and easiest way to guarantee your dog has fewer potty accidents in your home. How To Crate Train Poodle Puppies The process you will follow to crate train your poodle puppies consists of the following steps: Introduce them to the crate and use plenty of positive reinforcement. Positive reinforcement will be your greatest ally in the crate training method. It allows your puppy to feel safe. Set some treats or toys in the crate and have it decked out with blankets and other comforting items. Allow them to sniff around the area and decide for themselves. Start feeding them meals in the crate, making this a safe spot where they can let their guard down. Always keep water in the crate and make it a nice place to rest. Take your puppy out every 2 hours and always take them directly outside after they come out of their crate. Make sure that while crate training, especially in the early stages, when the crate door is opened, you bring your poodle pup directly outside. Make sure that they are getting a balance of play and bonding time but are still going out every two hours or so, then directly back to their crate. For the most part, this is what the first month or two will run until you can trust them to tell you when they need to go out by going directly to the door. By the 6-month mark, your puppy will be able to hold their bladder for around hours, but you should never make a dog of any age hold their bowels and bladder for over 8 hours. There is no exact timeline for how long this process will take because all dogs are different, but it should last around weeks for most dogs. You could see drastic results in the first week and be able to offer your poodle more playtime, but you should remain diligent no matter how fast your pup catches on. By the third month, they should be taking you to the door or pawing at it when they have to go. The goal of crate training is that they will be able to communicate to you when they need to go in the future. If they are showing significant progress, reward them with more freedom but continue taking them out at the same time while heading directly to the door each time. A great behavioral training course can really help with crate training. I found a fantastic training system called Brain Training for Dogs. If you need any behavioral training at all for your dog, I would highly recommend this course! Check it out here The Potty Schedule Outlined In case you prefer a more specific outline or blueprint for scheduling, the following list gives the times that you should make sure to bring your poodle outside to use the bathroom: First thing when you wake up in the morning Before each play break Every 2 hours or so during the afternoon After their nap After each meal about minutes after eating to digest and have to go badly After drinking lots of water Right before bed As you can see, your poodle should get plenty of time outside of the crate. If you are not offering them this free time, you are doing it unethically and irresponsibly. It will be a gradual process of integrating them into the crate, and then once they are trained, slowly integrating them out of the crate while leaving the door open as an option. Follow these steps to implement the crate training process correctly: Start with more social hours at first with lots of potty breaks. After the first week or so, slowly add more crate time and reduce the amount of free social hours, adding an hour or two a day for the first few weeks. The middle of the process week should be very focused on maintaining a schedule. Two hours in the crate Right outside for a potty break. At this point, you can increase the social hours and reduce the crate hours. They will catch on in time, and they will finish their training when they are ready. Remember that accidents will happen during this training, and it is important not to punish your puppy because of them. You can add the following items to make it cozy for your pup: Fuzzy blankets A small water bowl Toys Chew bones Use rubber that is good for puppy teeth and gums. Do not use a real bone that could sliver off into sharp pieces. This could be a choking hazard for canines of any age, so you need to be very careful in selecting bones. These are some comforts that will make the crate feel like a safe haven instead of a punishment. I recently wrote the guide to the best toys for poodles. I discuss crate training related topics such as boredom and separation anxiety, as well as the best toys to help curb these behaviors. You can learn more here. This will only make them fear the crate and you, making the process take significantly longer or not work at all. Make it cozy and safe. Make meal-time designated to the crate. Leave treats in the crate when they successfully hold it for a potty break. Slowly add to the amount of time they must hold it. Some go by the method of the month to hour ratio for potty breaks. For example, if your puppy is two months old, they can hold it for two hours. If your puppy is three months old, they can hold it for three hours, and so on. Develop a term you say excitedly to invite them to go back to their crate. The reason that crate training works is because a dog is a relatively hygienic animal that will not want to sit with their urine or fecal matter. Some reasons why you should crate train your poodle are: It teaches them not to poop or pee where they sleep. It helps strengthen their resolve to control their bowels and bladder. This offers you peace of mind knowing you are not leaving them to develop bad habits. It helps your dog become well-trained for travel and comfortable with future crate-required plans. It offers them a safe shelter that is all their own. It lets them know that you alone establish their schedule. It helps the dog see you as the alpha and aids in your retaining control. This avoids having an out-of-control puppy that is beyond training. It will end up being their security blanket, and if done correctly, crate-training offers them a space they can retreat in for serenity and solitude. Mistakes to Avoid When Crate Training Your Poodle There are plenty of ways to accidentally do a disservice to your dog while crate training them. This will result in them fighting you the entire time, and you risk them not properly being potty trained. You will need to take them out often to avoid them sitting in their waste. You may consider taking them out every hour, but you must take them out at least every two hours. Do not confuse crate training with locking them up all day because they will need many potty and social breaks. Keep in mind that their bladders might be larger, and they can hold it for longer, but not more than hours. You may have to reprogram their brain that they need to hold it unless they are outside. They want to be creating a relationship with you and the world. If they are not getting time to play and enjoy human interaction, your poodle can quickly become depressed or develop anxiety. This is probably the most important takeaway you should hold on to. Now that you understand the basics of crate training, you must learn the differences between each type of poodle. The poodle breed overall has won countless blue ribbons, is the national dog of France, and is known for its pedigree and class. The three classifications for poodles that are based on their size are: Toy — The smallest variation will often be less than 10 inches tall and weigh under 9 pounds. They are bred from larger poodles, so they retain the same behavioral and personality characteristics as larger poodles. Miniature — The miniature poodle is closer to the toy poodle in size and is between 11 to 15 inches tall and weighs between 10 and 20 pounds. Standard — The largest variation of poodle will be over 16 inches tall with most being around 25 to 30 inches tall and weigh between 40 and 75 pounds. They are bred for retrieving and intelligence. Selecting A Crate for Your Poodle There are tons of crates to choose from, but your primary considerations going into the crate selection will be the following: Select a crate that allows your dog to stand up, spin around, and not feel claustrophobic. You will want it a few inches taller than their height when standing straight. If there is room to designate a bathroom area in the crate, it is too large. Crates for pets will most commonly come in the following materials: Wire Plastic Fabric If you select a wire crate, your pup can see their surroundings. This allows them to look around and feel included, while a plastic crate may have walls that make them feel too confined or left out. Best Crates for Each Poodle Size It can be difficult to know what size crate will work best for your poodle. Here are my favorite crates on Amazon for each toy, miniature, and. Crate Training Your Poodle: Behavioral Problems and Solutions Your dog will sometimes cry during the early stages of their crate training. Some common behavioral issues of the poodle breed to be aware of are: Barking at all hours of the night Digging holes in the yard or your carpet Chewing on furniture or shoes Jumping the fence when let outside Stealing human food Hand chewing or biting Potty accidents Many of these behaviors are triggered by a bored poodle that is not getting enough socialization, exercise, or bonding time. Play more games with them Provide toys that are mentally stimulating, like puzzles that release treats Provide more chew toys if they are biting hands. They may be teething and need special Puppy Chew Toys Teach them more tricks and take opportunities to train them Your poodle is very intelligent and loves to be trained. Give them more brain activity and tasks to accomplish, like training, and the happier your poodle will be. Dogs like to feel a sense of purpose, just like humans. Show them more attention, and most of these bad habits will cease. Without adequate care, your poodle will become depressed, anti-social, anxious, or downright badly behaved. Check out this video to help stop your poodle from barking in her crate: Final Tips on The Crate Training Process Potty training your puppy will be a challenging but worthwhile process! This psychological training will condition them to follow your lead, have their safe-space and territory, while also communicating more clearly when they need to go outside. Take their lead in how ready they are to be free of the crate. If they cry at night, it is normal. Animals get scared of the dark, just like humans. Reduce their anxiety by making them feel less isolated. When your puppy has playtime, leave the crate door open. You may notice that they go back in willingly. The right crate connects to their instincts and should be well-embraced by the poodle breed. If you are going to commit, commit properly by avoiding punishments and making this a consequence-free period of learning for them. In Conclusion Take the crate training technique on in baby-steps. The tortoise beat the hare for a reason. Offer your dog love, affection, treats, and consistency — and they will be potty-trained in no time! Crate training should not be about leaving them in the crate all day, but more about instilling healthy habits. The crate should feel like their safe space. Find more ways to add comforts and offer them treats each time they go in their crate. Be mindful not to rush the process or force it upon them. It will happen naturally as you develop your routine with one another. I hope you found it helpful. Here are some products that I personally believe every owner should employ to help ensure the best quality of life for their dogs. But in all honesty, these are the exact products that I use and recommend to everyone, even my own family. Lemonade Pet Insurance : Lemonade Pet Insurance has enabled me to afford a very high level of veterinary care for my dog, Angus. Even after he was diagnosed with cancer a few years back. This program actually works, and at a small fraction of the cost of hiring a dog trainer! Pet Plate is the dog food subscription service I use to provide extremely healthy, pre-portioned meals for my dog. Pet Plate gives my dog Angus the highest quality nutrition at a very affordable price. BarkBox : Without a doubt, my dog enjoys Barkbox more than anything else I buy him. BarkBox delivers a customized box of themed toys, treats, and other products to your door each month. In addition, I like that a percentage of proceeds is donated to local animal shelters. I Purchase this service for my dog Angus and have saved hundreds of dollars over visiting his local vet with questions or more minor health concerns. Brent Hartman I'm Brent Hartman. I've been a dog lover my entire life and have owned many animals over the years. When my black lab Angus passed away, I was looking for another friend to share my life with. As a result of my research, I've come to love poodles and wanted to share some of what I've learned with you. Whether you're looking to adopt a poodle, or already own one, I created Poodle report to be the ultimate guide to help you find the answers you need. Recent Posts.
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golden retriever puppies for sale san francisco - They are from Working bloodlines. Many of them have titles and work in multiple areas which shows their versatility, adaptability, and ease of learning. They have loyal temperaments with natural protective instincts and have a strong willingness to be trained. They have heavy bone with well balanced bodies, and straight backs. They are working style dogs not show dogs. Males are lbs. They are exposed to many noises such as TV, radio, vacuum, washed, dryer, lawn mower or snow blower, cars, fans and the occasional dropped pan, etc. They are experience with many different surfaces such as cement,carpet, vinyl,gravel,grass, paper,rubber and water in a baby pool. They are exposed to the different outdoor elements for the time of year making housebreaking easier. All dogs drink filtered water, Our personal dogs eat a raw diet and the puppies are allowed to get some too. The puppies are paper trained and started with outside potty training by the time they leave here. We practice a minimal use vaccine protocol. Please vivit our web site for more information and pictures. She is not up to date with her vaccinations, has not been spayed, has been microchipped. She currently lives with older children and has previously lived with another dog but a no to cats. Our assessor said when she first arrived she did bark a lot and tried to jump up but soon settled down. Narla is currently being left for long periods and is looking for a new home where she will be given the time to socialise more and enjoy long walks in the fields. Tess - Stoke This beautiful lady is 10 years young Tess. She has been spayed but is not up to date with her vaccinations. She is good with children from toddlers upwards, will need further socialising with other dogs but will chase cats. Can pull on the lead but has good recall; loves her toys and has no possession aggression at all; she's just a very playful dog. Our assessor found her to be very friendly and greeted her with a waggy tail. Overall Tess is young at heart and needs a new family who will give her the love and attention she enjoys. Kieira - Nuneaton This delightful girl is 7 years young Kiera who is spayed but not up to date with her vaccinations. She is good with children but unknown with dogs due to lack of socialisation and a no to cats. She is housetrained and travels well in the car. Our assessor found her to be a lovely and friendly dog who is sadly not being walked and therefore pulls on the lead. She is in desperate need of a new home where she will be stimulated and exercised but in return you will have a loving and affectionate dog! Zoey - Staffs This lovely girl is 4 year old Zoey who is in need of a new home. Sadly, Zoey's owner has been unable to exercise her so she is a lively girl, she will bark when people come to the home but our assessor found her to be very friendly and Zoey certainly enjoyed a belly rub or two. She is so eager to please, our assessor took her out and found she would not stray far and came back immediately, excellent obedience. She loves to play with her ball, has no food aggression, sleeps in her crate and travels well. Has previously lived with a male dog but did dominate him and currently lives with a cat but if allowed will chase it; due to her excitable nature it would be best not to rehome with younger children. She is no longer up to date with her vaccinations and has not been spayed or micro-chipped. Zoey is a very much loved dog but sadly not given the time an energetic dog like her needs, she deserves a new loving home where she will enjoy the exercise and stimulation she so desperately needs. Sha This lovely if a little fat girlie is our Sha, she is 6 yrs old, spayed, vacs out of date not chipped. She is at present in foster with 6 GSD's, a russell and has seen at close quarters 3 horses who she looks at but not that interested, a definite no with cats. Good recall off lead, can be left causing no trouble, loves to play ball and shedding pounds as we speak!! Can be a typical bossy GSD lady but nothing more, great company, very easy to have a round. Has met kids of 8 and 9 and absolutely no problems at all. Nookie - Notts Nookie is approximately 6 years old. He is vaccinated, micro-chipped and neutered. Sadly there is limited background on him as he was abandoned at a boarding kennels; it is believed he has possibly been used as a guard dog. He is not suitable with children or other animals and would suit an experienced GSD owner. He is clean in his kennel and non destructive and it is suggested he may have possibly lived in a kennel environment before. He walks nicely on a lead but not suitable off lead unless in an enclosed space where there are no other animals; can get a little excitable and will grab the arm in play but will back off when told. He has lived with a child but due to his size it would be best to place him with older ones, can live with a steady dog but a definite no to cats!! He was originally found on the streets as a stray and his previous owner spent a lot of time in training him and received a lot of certificates, he even went to work with his owner in the office. We were informed he needed careful introduction to new people he meets but he is now in kennels and has met so many people and staff and has not been an issue; in fact they all adore him. Anyone with experience, looking for a large dog, look no further, Frank is your dog!! He currently lives with children but would be best placed with much older, more experienced ones, loves to play with other dogs but a definite no to cats. Tala will need firm handling and will need to know who is the leader certainly not him! He is housetrained, travels well and will make a fabulous dog in the right home where he will be stimulated and allowed the chance to have a good run out in the fields. Willow - Nuneaton Let me introduce you to the utterly gorgeous, big boy Willow. He is 4 years old 5 in Jul , entire and not vaccinated. Due to his size and strength it would be best to rehome him to a family with much older teenagers or no children at all, definitely no cats and needs to be carefully introduced to other dogs. Our assessor did find him to be a little lively but soon calmed down and Willow enjoyed a fuss and a cuddle. Willow is very large dog and has not be shown any ground rules and therefore his new owners need to work with him but in return they will have a fabulous dog! Buddy - West Mids This lovely dog is 8 years young Buddy who is entire and vaccinations are overdue. He currently lives with a family, a cat, loves to play with other dogs in the park and previously lived with dogs in a former home. The family are no longer able to keep Buddy due to his food aggression and behaviour towards various members of the family. However, our assessor found him to be a lovely, friendly dog who was energetic and this was no doubt due to not getting enough exercise or stimulation. In the right home he would make a fabulous addition and would suit an active family preferably with older children due to his excitable nature. Kye This young lad is Kye. Kye is almost 11 months old Husky x GSD, he is looking for a new home as he and the male shep he has lived with since a pup are having a few dominance problems, Kye keeps challenging the older dog for top dog position in the family which is now causing some issues. Kye is fully vacs, booster due September, microchipped, neutered and has good basic training. He will need an experienced owner as he is of strong character but wary of new people at times showing itself in a low grumble, better re homed with older children and could live with a bitch quite easily Louie - Coventry This lovely friendly lad is 8 years young Louie. He is neutered, vaccinated and house trained. He is sadly overweight due to lack of exercise but when our assessor took him out she found he eventually walked well on the lead after initially pulling and responded well to commands but could not test his recall. A definite no to cats and dogs he will dominate them so would be best placed as an only dog and to further socialise with other dogs. Louie is a water baby, loves to swim but doesn't like to go out of his depth, travels well in the car but hates fireworks! A friendly dog who really enjoys the attention he deserves and needs a home soon! Duke - Coventry This lovely lad is 5 year old Duke. He has been neutered but not up to date with his vaccinations. Although he does live with a dog he does not get on with dogs outside the home environment so would be best placed to rehome him as an only dog. Our assessor said he is a typical GSD, barked when he arrived but is a friendly chap. He is strong on the lead but has good recall; is gentle when taking treats. His owners sadly are unable to give him the time and exercise this dog needs, he would suit an active family who will give him the attention and exercise a dog like Duke loves. Theo This beautiful boy is 4 year old Theo who will need an experienced owner to provide him with time for exercise and socialisation. He currently lives with another dog and children but would now be best placed with much older teenagers. Although he lives with another dog and gets on well with her, he does not like other dogs when out. He is fully vaccinated and neutered. He requires a home with GSD experience who will guide and stimulate him, in return you will have a fabulous loving dog. Carla - Derby Carla is 6yrs entire and up to date with vaccinations. Carla is coming in because she doesn't like the new young child but is fine with the older children, she hasn't lived with another dog and cannot live with cats. She is very friendly when meeting new people has a good level of obedience on and off lead, travels well and loves water, she also enjoys helping in the garden!! Carla will suit most homes with bigger kids she is a very loving girl can you give her the second chance she deserves? Lulu - Nuneaton This beautiful little girl is 3 year old Lulu who is fully vaccinated and micro-chipped and spayed and currently in foster. She has previously lived with children and is ok with most dogs but cannot tolerate small ones and definitely no cats. She is fully house trained but will require further training as she will pull on the lead and needs to learn a few manners. She suffers with dust and food allergies and is currently on medication and a special diet for this; she is currently insured and this is transferrable. She will require a firm handler who can provide her with the guidance and socialisation she requires as well as the care needed with her allergy. A lovely girl who needs a chance to enjoy another loving home. Buckley - Hereford This poor boy is 8 year old Buckley who was rescued just before Christmas after living in a garage and not being walked since Apr last year. He is currently living with one of our fosterers who is providing him with a loving environment, gentle walks and the care he rightly deserves. He is now up date with his vaccinations, is housetrained and travels well. He's a gentle giant but will pull on the lead especially if he sees another dog; however if introduced carefully he will get on well with a calm bitch; he previously lived with his sister. Although Buckley is now safe in foster he now needs a forever home, ideally one with older children either as an only dog so he can enjoy the attention or possibly with a bitch but to be properly introduced. He had suffered many beatings and along with a bitch and 7 puppies starved to within days of dying when we took them on. For obvious reasons TJ suffers with some fear aggression and does over bond with one person very very quickly. He will need a very experienced GSD person to spend the much needed time to restore his confidence to learn to just be a dog again. With the right person he would live with another dog, for that special person he will make a truly lovely dog. Vaccinations have lapsed, he is neutered, not chipped. Trojan is very overweight as he is not walked as much as needed due to being under socialised with other dogs. Page 1 Page 2 "He is your friend, your partner, your defender, your dog. You are his life, his love, his leader. He will be yours, faithful and true, to the last beat of his heart. You owe it to him to be worthy of such devotion. We also accept Paypal payments - just click on the Paypal button below. Please help support the rescue Please help us by making a donation so that we can help re home more unwanted German Shepherd Dogs. Thank you. Bookmark Young German Shepherd dog lying down on the grass Almost a third of the public thinks German shepherds are aggressive, despite most having never had a negative experience with one, according to new research. And the common misconception is negatively affecting the number of Guide Dog volunteers willing to look after a German shepherd. Guide Dogs is today launching a campaign to educate Brits about the realities behind the breed. Over a third believe they look frightening compared to other breeds, because of their wolf-like face, large size, and sharp, pointed ears. But German shepherds are loyal, adaptable and incredibly intelligent, making them excellent guide dogs for those who want a fast-moving and focused companion. In fact, German shepherds were the very first guide dogs in the UK back in .In particular, we need more enthusiastic volunteers who love German shepherds to help us raise the next generation of these guide dogs. He is an exceptionally clever guide dog and will focus brilliantly in busy places. Other dog walkers will avoid us when I let him off-lead at the park, and many taxi drivers do not like him. People just do not see German shepherds as guide dogs and twice I have been chased by security guards asking me to leave shopping centres with Arthur. She is a wonderful mother and has the patience of a saint with her current litter of nine guide dog puppies, as well as our pet tortoises, terrier, and cat. But nevertheless, people are frightened of her. Or by navigating to the user icon in the top right. Follow NottinghamshireLive.