golden retriever puppy weight

Some Final Words There are several steps to take to do this task just right. Here are those steps to follow if you are going to do this job yourself. Start from front to back, then move from head to toe. Look for any mats that need detangling or cut off. Remove those mats, once you find them, by cutting them off at the best spot possible. Be careful not to pull those mats as you will cause your toy poodle a little discomfort or pain. Or you can pull the mat away from their body and then brush it back in the direction of their skin. Start cutting their fur at the nape of their neck and move towards the back. The scissors should be in one hand while the other hand gently pulls the fur tight. You can try to have your pet roll over so you can cut their stomach hairs or put them in a little sling to hold them while you do that job. The ankles and legs should be done in the previous step. Focus on the hair between their toes. Now that most of their body is done, it is time to trim their face. You do not want to use sharp scissors here in case your hand slips or the dog moves suddenly. Cover their whole head and face at this time. Toy poodles should be groomed about every 6 to 8 weeks. This will help keep their coats under control. Also, if you like them to have longer fur, you should brush their fur about 3 to 4 times each day. A toy poodle should be trimmed about every 3 to 4 weeks when they are younger. Plus, you should wait about 3 to 4 months before giving them their first haircut. To keep the mats out, you should brush them regularly. Brushing often helps make their fur easier to cut. If you are going to give them a bath after their haircut, use a dog shampoo. Even baby shampoo does not have the right amount of PH balance for dog hair and skin. Long nails can cause your pet a little pain and a lot of discomforts. So, when you are trimming their fur, make time to trim their nails as well. Dogs are not like cats and do not need long sharp claws. Some Final Words Take the time to get your pet familiar with the scissors or razors you will be using to trim their fur. That way they will not fight as much and may stand still a lot longer for you. Take your time as you will only make a mess of things if you rush this job. If you rush, you may cut your pet and hurt them. Then they may be forever afraid of grooming time. This is an attitude you want to avoid at all costs. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases. By Yvonne Villasenor Yvonne Villasenor is a freelance writer and animal lover who just so happens to be allergic to cats and dogs. That doesn't stop her from cuddling with them! When Yvonne's not working, you can find her lounging with her charming Chihuahuas, weightlifting, or wandering around Halloween stores. Having such unique and versatile fur means there are countless poodle haircuts for you to choose from, and a professional groomer can give your poodle a makeover with a hairstyle that best matches her personality and lifestyle. With so many options available, learn how your poodle can look like anything from a plush toy to elegant royalty! Teddy Bear Cut The teddy bear cut is a popular trim for poodles and other long-haired breeds. With this look, your poodle has longer hair on her face for a soft, rounded "teddy bear" appearance, and the rest of the fur on her body is cut at a shorter, uniform length throughout. Talk about cuddly cuteness! Summer Cut Because poodles have a single coat, they can enjoy the luxury that comes with it: the summer cut. Known as one of the most low-maintenance poodle haircuts, the summer cut is a practical haircut option that keeps your poodle's fur short so she stays comfortable in hot weather. So if you're looking to cut your hair to beat the heat in the summer, you and your poodle can rock shorter hairdos together! Puppy Cut No matter your poodle's age, you can seemingly turn back time with the puppy cut. Also a popular choice among poodle parents, the puppy cut is a simple, natural-looking trim that leaves your dog with an evenly cut length, typically 1 to 2 inches, all over. This is a highly modifiable look, so consult your groomer for a length that best fits your and your dog's preference and lifestyle. Continental Cut The continental cut is a glamorous and traditional hairstyle often worn by poodle show dogs. With this look, your poodle's face, throat, feet, and part of the tail are shaved. This look is characterized by full hair on the rib cage and chest, pom poms of fur on the tail, ankles, and hips, as well as a banded topknot on the head. German Trim Looking for a haircut that looks fancy but not too fancy? The German trim uses the power of angles to give your poodle a sharp profile. The hair on your furry friend's legs is left long, while the hair on the body and ears is cut short. This is a great option not only if your poodle is more active but also if your pup is prone to ear infections or ear matting. Modern Cut The modern cut is an elegant hairstyle that combines aesthetics with your poodle's natural features. This cut keeps the hair on the body short, accentuating your poodle's shape. The fur on the head, ears, and tail is left longer to create a fluffy appearance. When your dog has such curly, coarse locks, you may wonder how many trips to the groomer you and your poodle may be making. Poodles and poodle-crosses also go through a coat change in the first year of life, so they need to be groomed more often," says Danna Alexander, owner of Prestige Dog Grooming School. To keep mats and tangles at bay, it's best to brush your poodle at least two to three times a week. Toy poodle haircuts aren't off limits for miniature and standard poodles, just as standard poodle haircuts aren't off limits for miniature and toy poodles. While any poodle can sport any style, there may be common options you'd like to choose from. Because there are various names for different types of poodle haircuts, make sure to bring your groomer a photo of the haircut you'd love your pooch to have. Was this page helpful? Brushing is important for all dogs, but especially for poodles. Poodle hair can easily get matted together as the dog sheds, and for this reason, it is often recommended that poodles with long hair be brushed every day. Brushing once or twice every week is generally acceptable if the dog has shorter hair. Use a slicker brush to gently remove thick tangles and mats. It's important to remove mats whenever you find them, as they can pull at the skin, causing discomfort to your pet. Because of the way they shed their hair, poodles are prone to matting if they go for long periods without grooming. In extreme cases, matting can cause skin infections that are painful for your pet. Marie has over 10 years of pet grooming experience specializing in dogs and cats. Marie Lin Licensed Pet Groomer Expert Warning: If you have to cut out a thick mat, use scissors to cut through in the direction of the hair growth—not across! Also, be sure you can see the pointed tip of the scissors before you cut, to ensure you don't cut the dog's skin. Afterward, the mat should be loose enough to be combed out. You should be sure to bathe your dog before trimming him with clippers, as dirty or overly oily fur can prematurely dull your clipper blades. The ASPCA recommends bathing your dog every three months or so unless more frequent baths are required. Some dogs treasure bath time, while others dislike being bathed. If your dog does not enjoy bathing, you may want to get a helper to aid you in keeping the dog in the tub during the bath. Use a cup or a pitcher to flush water all over your poodle from head to tail. If you massage your poodle's back while rubbing in the shampoo, he may enjoy the bath a bit more. Use a shampoo specifically made for dogs. Continue rinsing with clean water until the water runs clear and no longer appears soapy. It's important to clean inside and under your dog's ears to prevent bacteria, yeast, and parasites from living there. Use a toothbrush to gently remove plaque buildup around the base of your poodle's teeth. Choose a toothpaste made specifically for dogs. Your poodle will inevitably swallow some of the toothpaste, and human toothpaste can upset your dog's stomach. Brush gently. Remember, your dog may not be used to having its gums rubbed. Brushing too hard or fast can cause pain to your poodle's sensitive gums. Be consistent with your poodle's dental care. Brushing your dog's teeth can help prevent tartar buildup, which causes periodontal disease and can lead to potentially-fatal bacterial infections. But you also want to avoid trimming them too short, as this can cause bleeding. Add to Favorites Every grooming salon has this type of client. They want their adult dog to look like it did when they first brought it home — like a puppy. Especially the head. The expression should be soft and sweet. Award-winning pet stylist, Amy Triezenberg, has isolated what captures this youthful look on a mature Toy Poodle. In this lesson, Amy demonstrates how to get this look. To save time, she sets the body with guard combs. Once the body pattern is set, she hand scissors the legs so they are fuller and slightly fluffy. Amy believes in getting through the body work as quickly as possible. She has plenty of ideas to make this happen. She demonstrates shortcuts and tips to swiftly move through this part of the trimming process. According to Amy, the head is the most critical part of the entire haircut. If she is going to take extra time on a haircut, this is where she will take it. To get that youthful expression, the entire head is done by hand scissoring. Typical of many Toy Poodles, this little guy is a bit fussy. He moves around quite a bit. Amy sprinkles handling advice throughout the entire lesson. She shows you now to win the trust and cooperation of a slightly challenging grooming candidate. In this video you will learn: how to block in the coat to save time and effort. She grew up in South Holland IL, and was home schooled her whole life. She competed in her first grooming contest while still in grooming school and won 3rd place. After competing in regular classes for a while, Amy started competing in creative styling. After success in the creative styling arena, she resumed her focused on regular grooming classes. With hard work, she earned her slot as a Top 10 GroomTeam Member in , , , , , and .Amy was the manager of an exclusive, high volume salon, which she loved. However, she made the difficult decision to leave that role with the birth of her first child. She chose a grooming job closer to her home. Three children later, she and her husband decided to open a home-based grooming salon. The flexible hours allow her to spend quality time with her family and dogs. Amy has written articles for Groomer to Grooming magazine and enjoys sharing what she has learned with private coaching and seminars. She has always appreciated all the people that have helped her along the way. She looks forward to helping others the way that others have helped her. Currently, she pursues her passion; the education side of grooming. You will need the following supplies: A good set of clippers A 10 blade and either a 5 or 7F blade A can of Cool Lube to clean and cool the clipper blades periodically as you work Follow the directions on the can. This will make it easier to bathe and blow dry the rest of the coat prior to trimming. Head and Top of the Muzzle With the dog facing you, lightly grip the muzzle to steady the head. Gripping too tightly will make the dog uncomfortable while gripping too lightly won't provide enough control. Using a 10 blade, you'll first cut the hair with the grain which runs from the nose towards the eyes. Clip the entire top half of the muzzle in this fashion. Follow up with light strokes from the corner of eyes to the start of each ear fold. Head and Lower Muzzle Area Once a line is established from the eye to the ear, imagine a V starting at the Adam's apple and ending at the front of each ear fold. With the clipper blade held facing upward, start at the Adam's apple and trim the hair to the ear fold. Remember your V pattern, and repeat on the other side. Next, use the clippers to trim all the hair on that portion of the neck and underneath the muzzle so it all matches. Be careful not to nick your dog's tongue if he licks, or it will bleed. Between the eyes, trim out a small, inverted V from the head fall to give the eyes prominence and accent the stop where the muzzle and head meet. Topknot The topknot is brushed and scissored into either a round cap or an oblong cap, whichever best fits the dog's facial features. Holding the muzzle, gently comb all the topknot hair from the rear of the dog's head forward. Carefully trim the hair straight across while being extremely careful around the eyes. Next, comb the topknot back from the front of the dog's head toward the back of the skull. Trim the hair across in a straight line just as you did when the hair was pulled forward. Repeat this procedure on both sides of the topknot and trim the hair flush with the skull above the ears. Now fluff the hair up, and a manageable square shape will appear. Gently round out the shape and shorten the hair to the length you desire. Shaving the Head If you prefer not to have a topknot, you can shave the top of the head with a 10 blade. This will give your dog a cleaner look. Ears The ears can be brushed out and trimmed neatly around the edges or shaved to match the length of the facial hair. Clip down the ribs from the topline to under the dog to remove the side hair cleanly. You must be extremely careful around the dog's nipples so you don't cut them. Switch back to a 10 blade and clip with the direction of the hair growth to clean the area from the chest to belly. Work very carefully around the genitals and anus. Tail Using the 10 blade, clip the hair from the base of the tail to halfway up, and leave the hair long on the rest of the tail. Gather the long hair, twist it tightly into a hair rope, and then use scissors to cut the end of your rope just about one inch above the tip of tail itself. Shake the tail out, and you'll have a rough circle that you can then shape into a "pom" with finishing shears Are you InTheKnow? Sign up for our newsletter featuring all the latest stories and products we love. Invalid email I agree to receive email communications from LoveToKnow. Trim it with scissors to create a cylinder that blends into the body hair at the shoulders and hips. Or, use same blade 5 or 7F that you used on the body and clip the hair from shoulder to foot for a maintenance-free trim. Feet The feet can be shaped with the scissors to match the body, or you can opt for the traditional hair-free Poodle foot by using a 10 blade to clip against the grain under and on top of the foot. Spread the toes and carefully "scoop" out the hair in between with the clippers. Most dog's feet are ticklish, so take your time. Trim just to the top of the foot where it meets the dog's ankle. Increasing the Curl If you love the look of curly poodle hair, keep a spray bottle of water with you as you work. After you brush your poodle out, give them a gentle misting of water. This will promote more curling of the fur. Bathing Your Poodle Not only will a regular trim help keep your poodle's hair and skin in good condition but a regular bath is also a necessary task for poodle owners. A poodle should be bathed about every four to six weeks. It's important to comb their hair out before you bathe them for best results. Using a Professional Groomer If this all seems a bit overwhelming and you'd prefer to take your dog to a groomer , expect pricing to vary based on several factors. This would include the size of your poodle and the overall condition of their coat and how detailed and fancy you want the cut to be. Perfecting the Art of Poodle Haircuts Learning how to groom a poodle takes some practice, but it is a skill you can master. You should have a basic understanding of how to groom a poodle if you're going to live with one. Remember that mistakes will happen, but the hair will grow back. Just keep trying until you perfect your technique with poodle haircuts. Eventually, you'll be ready to try some more complicated poodle trims. But the many challenges of Poodle grooming have redirected more than a few aspiring owners to choose a lower maintenance dog breed. The truth is, keeping that lush, curly coat free of tangles and mats can be a big job. As of today, the dog breed known as the Poodle is bred in three sizes: toy, miniature and standard, and is currently ranked as the 7th most popular dog nationwide. And their coats get a lot of attention, especially when they match a certain style. But beyond it all, there is still just one purebred Poodle dog breed. The basic Poodle grooming guidelines you will read about here apply equally to all purebred Poodle dogs. Poodle Hair Basics Poodles are smart, active, agile, easy to train, eager to learn, outgoing and people-pleasers. They are also as close to being a non-shedding, hypoallergenic dog as any dog gets. In theory, Poodles are the type of pet dog everyone wants! The answer is simple: their high-maintenance coat. Poodle hair is notoriously grooming-intensive. Puppies have very soft hair that often grows in wavy instead of curly. Poodle hair transitions from puppy hair to adult Poodle hair somewhere between 9 and 18 months of age. Instead, this shed hair develops into mats and tangles unless continuously groomed. Professional grooming at least every 3 to 6 weeks is highly recommended for adult dogs. Otherwise, the same show and daily hair clips and grooming basics apply equally for standard Poodle grooming, miniature Poodle grooming and toy Poodle grooming. Luckily, in addition to these two ornate show styles, you also have plenty of other Poodle grooming styles to choose from. Poodle Clips There are several different clips you might like to try on your dog: Puppy clip Poodles aged 12 months or younger often wear this clip, with face, feet and tail shaved and the remainder scissor-clipped. A topknot is optional. Lamb clip All fur is clipped to the same short length, leaving the Poodle looking like he is wearing a warm fuzzy bathrobe…. Teddy bear clip As the name suggests, this clip leaves your Poodle looking less like a Poodle and more like a classic teddy bear, with hair evenly clipped throughout. Town and country clip The belly, face, neck and feet are shaved. The remaining fur is left long. You can opt for an easier-to-maintain, straightforward clip that you can learn to do yourself, such as one of those described in the previous section here. The same basic grooming tools are used for standard, miniature and toy Poodle grooming styles. In the same way, learning how to groom a Miniature Poodle uses the same basic set of steps as learning to groom a toy or standard Poodle. We are big fans of the hertzko slicker brush, but you can find lots more options in the slicker brush section below too. Best Brush for Poodles Choosing the best brush for Poodle hair requires at least two different kinds of poodle brush, a bristle brush and a slicker brush for Poodles. The slicker brush is used first, to remove mats, tangles and shed-out hair. After all the tangles and mats are worked out, the bristle brush is then used to brush out de-tangled and de-matted hair. The neatest aspect of this brush is the self-cleaning button: one push and hair is ejected for fast clean up. The manufacturer includes a free e-book on grooming and a 5-year warranty. It includes 40 percent more pins and is designed to help penetrate the deepest layers of thick, curly coats and then help shape and style the chosen clip. Bristle brush for Poodles Bristle brushes are another great choice. The handle is made of no-slip silicone for a comfy customized fit. The bristles have rounded ends to ensure safety while grooming. It works well to make the coat soft and smooth. They gently work their way down to the lowest level of the curly, thick Poodle coat. Those sharp, shiny gizmos and gadgets, some of which make super-loud noises and move in strange ways, can strike terror into even the staunchest puppy heart. Especially when operated near sensitive areas such as eyes and ears. By helping your puppy get used to the feeling of having his ears, eyes, nails, tail and teeth examined and worked on up close. You can also make a visit or two to the groomer before your puppy is actually ready to be groomed for the first time. This way, your puppy gets used to the sounds, sights and smells of the grooming experience. Be sure to bring plenty of treats so your puppy associates groomer visits with tasty snacks! However, we selected them for inclusion independently, and all of the views expressed in this article are our own. This will be good practice for later on — for both of you! Yes, haircuts are essential for Poodles. Their thick, long, curly coats are prone to tangling and trapping debris. When will my Poodle puppy need haircuts? Then, at around four months old, they will shed their puppy coats and start to grow out their rougher adult coats. Frequency As a general rule, Poodles should have their coats clipped every weeks once their adult coats grow out, whatever your desired length. This is because they grow so quickly and can become matted just as fast! What equipment should I use? There are three main types of dog grooming scissors; straight scissors, curved scissors, and thinning shears, and they all perform slightly differently. Straight grooming scissors are a multi-task tool, they have straight blades for general, basic grooming, creating straight lines in the coat, and adding the finishing touches to haircuts. Curved dog grooming shear has a curved blade that can be used to fine-tune and shape specific areas of the coat, such as the paws and hindquarters. Thinning shears have a cutting edge on one blade and teeth on the other, and there are also double thinners that have teeth on both blades. They are designed to remove lots of hair in even sections for a natural finish, and they can also be used to blend out the harsh lines from clippers and texturize the coat. Or, if you just need something for the occasional touch-up between visits to the groomer, a simple pair of electrical motor clippers will do just fine. Electric motor clippers are also good for keeping short coats short. You should also be aware of the types of blades that come with clippers. The higher the number of the blade, the more hair that it will remove. Or, you can get guards that fit a single blade to customize the length, which is a lot more convenient. Start by showing them the equipment and getting them used to the sight and sound of it before you cut any hair. Reward them just for being around it and then try cutting a small section of hair. If they react well, reward them again, and then do another section. Keep rewarding them as you go and again after the haircut is finished. Do it in a well-lit, comfortable part of the home that your pup can stand up in. Once you get them into a routine — keep it up! Work your way down the legs first, then from the neck to the hindquarters, or vice versa, and then the tail. Take care with the feet, underside, and head, shielding their eyes from falling fur. Use long strokes and go from the neck down to the back legs. How to deal with grooming anxiety If your pup is afraid of the scissors or clippers, take it really slowly and try to make it an enjoyable experience. You can do this by breaking up the haircut into smaller sessions to make it less stressful and taking breaks in between each one. Give your dog lots of praise and a reward every time you take a break and ask another family member to comfort them during the haircut. You can start brushing your Poodle from any age. To brush them, simply go in the direction of hair growth using short strokes. Hold the fur at the base with your free hand to remove knots, and use a mat remover for any stubborn mats. Bathing a Poodle puppy As for bathing, you should give your Poodle pup their first proper bath at months old to help them shed their puppy coat, unless they get seriously dirty before that. However, you can give your pup a bath any time after weeks of age to get them used to the sensation, but avoid overbathing them, as this will strip the fur of its natural oils and make it dry and brittle. Once they have their adult coats, your Poodle pup will need a bath once a month. You can even buy shampoo that is designed especially for Poodle coats. To give your Poodle a bath, lather up their wet fur with the shampoo, massage it in, leave it for as long as directed on the bottle, and rinse thoroughly. Follow up with conditioner if necessary. Starting out just training her own Border Collies, she gradually expanded to local classes and seminars, now she travels as far as Europe and teaches students all over the world on how to train their dogs in a positive, bonding, game-based way. She is known for her clear, step-by-step training that lets beginners and advanced dog trainers see lasting results very quickly.

Check out our guides on best dog food for Doodle puppies here. The age at which a Bernedoodle reaches its maximum height is very much dependent on their type. Smaller dogs, such as Tiny Bernedoodles naturally achieve this much earlier at around months, while with Standard Bernedoodles may take up to 14 months to get to their full size. Miniature Bernedoodles will sit somewhere between this at months. When they get to their adult size, they will likely continue to grow outwards as their muscles develop. This means their weight will continue to go up. You can calculate their potential adult weight by taking what they weigh at 18 weeks and multiplying it by two. Medium and Miniature Bernedoodles Medium and Miniature Bernedoodles usually get to half their full weight around 3. You can calculate their potential adult weight at 18 weeks by taking what they weigh at that age and multiplying it by two. Standard Bernedoodles Standard Bernedoodles usually get to half their full weight around 4. You can calculate their potential adult weight at 23 weeks by taking what they weigh at that age and multiplying it by two. While there are no guarantees with hybrid dogs breeds, careful observation of the various types and generations of Bernedoodles now allows us to make some pretty decent predictions on their adult size and weight. Their specific rate of growth, as well as their final size, has a lot to do with the type of parent Poodle used in the original, as well as in any subsequent breeding. This enables us to categorize Bernedoodles in Standard, Miniature and Tiny sizes. Smaller dogs will attain their adult size much sooner than their larger counterparts who may not reach full maturity until well into a year of their lives. Either way, their weight is likely to continue to increase even once their size is fixed. Hopefully, the information included here will allow you to do that with a fair degree of accuracy. It is not intended to be a substitute for qualified professional veterinary advice, diagnosis, or treatment. Always seek the advice of your veterinarian or other qualified animal health provider with any questions you may have. You Might Also Like. The Dangers of Too Much or Too Little Exercise Too little exercise can result in the development of many behavioral and health issues in your Bernedoodle. Physically, obesity in dogs is a major problem and is linked to serious and potentially deadly threats like kidney disease, heart disease, cancer, and arthritis. Behaviorally, a lack of sufficient activity can also be the underlying cause of many problems like excessive barking, counter-surfing, destructiveness, and so much more. The bones and joints of your Bernedoodle puppy are still growing and developing until they reach their full height and weight. Putting too much stress on them during these formative months can result in life-long joint and bone issues. Age The age of your dog is the single biggest factor that determines their Bernedoodle exercise requirements. Senior dogs, on the other hand, may not have the same energy or stamina they did when they were younger. Both older and younger dogs require plenty of rest throughout the day. Size Large dogs, like the Standard Bernedoodle, develop slowly and, as a result, can take a long time to reach their adult height and weight. It can take a Standard Bernedoodle between 18 months and 3 years to stop growing, but it usually averages around 2 years. Smaller dogs like the Mini Bernedoodle or Toy Bernedoodle will finish growing faster and be able to handle longer periods of exercise sooner. The Miniature Bernedoodle will usually hit its full grown size at around 18 months. The Toy Bernedoodle a. Personality On average, Bernedoodles are a moderately active breed. However, like humans, every dog has its own unique personality and temperament. Some Bernedoodles are more relaxed while others are higher-energy. Oftentimes, genetics play a role and you can get an idea of how high-energy your puppy will be based on the temperament of their parents. Keep on the lookout for signs your dog is getting too much or too little exercise… If your dog is getting too much exercise, they may be hesitant to go outside or may choose to lie down instead of walking. They may also show physical symptoms like limping or sickness. Always watch closely for excessive panting as that may be a sign that they need to rest. As they say, a tired dog is an obedient dog. Still confused as to how much exercise your Bernedoodle puppy should be getting? If they need more activity, you can repeat these 10 minute sessions times per day. Every month after that you can add another 5 minutes to that length until you hit 30 minutes, times per day at month 6. Mini Bernedoodle Puppy Exercise Requirements During your first month with your Miniature Bernedoodle at 8 weeks old, limit their exercise to 10 minutes at a time, times per day. You can slowly increase this time to 15 minutes at 4 months old, 20 minutes at 5 months old, and 25 minutes at 6 months old. Keep these 25 minute sessions, times per day until your Mini Bernedoodle has their first birthday. For the next 6 months keep their walks or activity in minute increments, times per day. As such, you need to take ramping up their exercise very slowly so as not to hurt their joints and bones. For months 4 and 5, you can increase their exercise sessions to 15 minute intervals. When they hit 6 months old, you can start exercising 20 minutes a day, times per day until their first birthday. From 12 months to 18 months you can increase their sustained exercise to 25 minute periods. From 18 months until 2 years the safe range is minutes, times per day. Finally, at 2 years old they are considered an adult and can go the full recommendation of minutes, times per day. Bring that down just a tad when they become a senior to minute intervals. Exercising is more than just walks! Just as important as how long your puppy exercises for is what type of exercise they do. Vigorous, high-impact exercise, even for short periods of time, can result in bone and joint problems. Here are some common, puppy-safe exercise options as well as some common ideas that are dangerous. Playtime with Other Puppies — Other puppies will have similar staminas and this is a great activity for socialization as well. If your puppy plays with older dogs, they may be tempted to go too hard trying to keep up, so make sure you are supervising carefully. Always walk at a slow or moderate pace and remember that stopping to sniff is good mental stimulation! Jumping or Climbing — Whether this is climbing staircases or jumping off couches, these activities can take a huge, negative toll on their joints. Catching Frisbees or Balls in the Air — Constantly running and jumping to catch these toys will be rough on their developing body. Luckily, there are plenty of creative ways to sneak in some fun physical and mental exercise for your dog! Snuffle balls and snuffle mats allow your dog to search for their food using their sense of smell. This is a great way to relax and calm your dog. There are plenty of snuffle toy options available on Amazon or Etsy. If you prefer to DIY, here are our step-by-step instructions for making your own snuffle ball! Hide and Seek A simple game of hide and seek allows your Bernedoodle both physical and mental exercise as they search around the house to find you! Start easy and eventually find more challenging locations as your pup gets to be an expert at this game! Tug of War This classic game that can be played indoors or outdoors will help your meet the Bernedoodle exercise requirements. How Far Can a Bernedoodle Walk? In general, Bernedoodle puppies under 2 years old should avoid walks longer than 1 or 2 miles in length. Once their stamina is built up, adult Bernedoodles can walk miles or even longer. Remember, a mile is more strenuous for Toy and Mini Bernedoodles than it is for Standard Bernedoodles since their strides are smaller and it will take more steps. The balancing act of getting your dog enough activity without putting stress on their growing body is a constant struggle. More About Bernedoodles…. David Bernedoodles are naturally friendly dogs , but, as is true of all breeds, it is essential to socialize them correctly to decrease the chance that they will be fearful of or aggressive to other dogs, animals, and humans. Ideally, it would be best to start socializing your pup as soon as they have their essential vaccinations. The Multi-Pet Household If you already have pets and are introducing a Bernedoodle into your family, the best thing you can do is ensure that everyone gets off on the right foot. This requires careful planning and, in many cases, slow introductions. Understanding Animal Communication Dogs generally communicate similarly no matter the breed, but other animals have their own methods of communication. For example, when a dog wants to play, it will generally lower its front paws and stick its butt in the air, wag its tail, and its ear might perk up depending on the type of dog. Now think about how a cat shows aggression. They put their butt in the air, they swish their tails menacingly, and their ears go back. Do you see how these are all very similar to what a dog does to show that they want to play? This is just one example of how a dog can miscommunicate with other animals — and why it is up to the owner to introduce their pooch to other animals in the household carefully. Introducing Your Current Dog to a New Bernedoodle If you already have a dog or dogs and are introducing a new Bernedoodle puppy or adult, you should do so slowly and carefully. Even if your dog loves other dogs, remember that it can be quite a different thing to have another dog come live in their home. For this reason, it is a good idea to have the initial meeting in a neutral location such as a park that your dog has never been to. Ideally, you will have a friend or family member that can help you. Each of you will take one of the dogs and go to the meeting spot alone. Try to bring the dogs together to greet each other. Do your best to keep the leash slack so that the dog does not feel it is being held back. At this point, there are many ways either dog might act. They might be excited to meet each other, which they will show by circling and sniffing. They might urinate near one another, circle each other, or even ignore the other. Let them do what they would like with as little interaction from you as possible. Keep the interaction brief. If at any point the dogs try to fight or otherwise become aggressive with each other, do not pull on their leashes. Instead, wave a treat above the nose of each to get them to separate. Let them calm down. Keep them near each other but not close enough to get at the other. Provide them with calm pets, lots of treats, and other comforting things. If all goes well, try heading out on a short walk together. If all the dogs still seem to like each other — or they seem indifferent — then you can take them home and see how they do. Keep them on leash initially so that you can quickly jump in if things get out of hand. Otherwise, allow them to explore together and get to know each other. Introducing Your Cat to Your New Bernedoodle If you are a cat household bringing in a Bernedoodle, you will have a few options depending on how dog-savvy your cat is and how cat-savvy your dog is. If neither animal is used to having the other around, you will want to start very slowly. When we brought our puppy home, we had two cats who had never met a dog. It took several months to introduce them fully. First, we ensured that the cats had somewhere to go that the puppy could not go. We did this by installing a puppy gate on our stairs that includes a cat door. This allowed our cats to go upstairs where their litter and food is, to get away from the dog. It allowed them to slowly make the trek downstairs to meet the puppy on their terms. I will admit that there was a period of time where my husband and I wondered if our cats would ever be brave enough to come downstairs or if we would have cats upstairs and a dog downstairs for the rest of our lives. Luckily, it happened just as we hoped — the cats eventually started coming downstairs, and they now love playing with our Bernedoodle. It just took a lot of time and patience. If you are getting a Bernedoodle that is used to cats, or you have cats that are used to dogs, then you do not have to go this slow. However, it is still wise to give the animals time to get used to each other before formally introducing them. Bring your Bernedoodle home and keep it confined to a room or two for the first day or two. Let your cats smell that the dog is in the house, and the dog smell the cats in the house. This gives both of them a chance to adjust to the other. Then try bringing the pup out on a leash. Allow the animals to approach each other. If they do so peacefully, you can drop the leash — but keep it on the dog at first so that you can quickly grab it if any of the animals get upset. Once your pets are used to each other, you should not assume that they will never have a kerfuffle. Just as human siblings will fight from time to time, your animals might too. The First Few Weeks of Being a Multi-Pet Household Whether you have introduced your Bernedoodle to another dog, another cat, or any other pet, the first few weeks are critical in the long-term success of a blended household. Walk them or play with them at the same time. In short, try to keep their life as similar to before as possible. Do not leave two dogs alone together until you are confident that they are entirely used to each other. Continue to give them lots of treats, praise, and attention when they communicate properly. If you notice dogs fighting over toys, growing, snapping, showing their teeth, or long stares, then it is time to separate the dog from the rest of the family until it can settle down. As time goes on, the pets should get used to being together and, hopefully, start to become the best of friends. Suppose this does not occur, and your current dog is aggressive toward your new Bernedoodle even after taking care with a slow introduction. Playdates Are the Best Way to Start Socializing with Other Dogs If you do not have another dog in the home and want to introduce your Bernedoodle to other dogs, it is wise to start with one-on-one playdates. If you have a friend or family member with a dog that loves other dogs, ask them to get together. Start at a neutral place, like a park. Keep both dogs on their leashes and allow them to sniff each other and greet each other. Unless they show signs of aggression, you should follow their lead and allow them to get to know each other however they feel comfortable. Once they seem to be comfortable with each other or indifferent to one another , take off for a short walk. The first time you introduce your Bernedoodle to another dog will likely be the most nerve-wracking because you will not know what to expect. Once you know that your dog likes other dogs, you can more quickly and easily introduce them to other dog-savvy dogs. Taking Your Bernedoodle to the Dog Park for the First Time The most important thing to know about taking your puppy or dog to the dog park for the first time is that it should not be the first time your pooch interacts with other dogs. Remember that the dog park is overwhelming to a dog. There are new smells, other dogs, new people, and new rules that your puppy or dog is not aware of. This is why we start by offering advice on socializing with other dogs and then move on to advice about the dog park. If you take your Bernedoodle to the dog park before they are ready, they can quickly become fearful of the park, and that can transfer to all their interactions with other dogs. If you have already introduced your dog to a few other dogs and they have done great, then you are ready to take your Bernedoodle to the dog park. If you have several options, start with a smaller dog park that gives your Bernedoodle a chance to explore but that you can easily keep them in your view. Before you hop in the car, consider this list of items that can make the experience a more positive one: Their leash. Yes, the dog park is leash-less, but you will need to get your dog from your house or vehicle to the park. Then take it with you into the dog park. If something goes wrong, you will want to be able to leash your Bernedoodle quickly. Depending on the particular area in which you leave, you will likely need to keep their city license, rabies tags, and any other required tags. The easiest way to do that is to keep their collar on. Bring poop bags. You will need to clean up after your dog in a dog park just as you would if you were walking your dog through your neighborhood. Bring treats. If you have to call your pooch to you, you want to be able to reward them. This is a good chance for advanced training because you can teach your dog to respond even when distractions abound. We recommend getting a treat pouch so that you will have treats quickly available when necessary. Only bring toys you are prepared to leave behind. If you bring a Frisbee, ball, or another toy for your pup to play with, you should be prepared to lose it. It might simply get lost, another dog might claim it as its own, or you could forget it. You should assume that your dog is going to get muddy and dirty at the park. Bring one or two towels to wipe down your dog, and then bring another one or two to cover your backseat during your drive home. Your Bernedoodle is going to run around, and they are going to get tired. Bring a bottle of water and a small bowl to give your Bernedoodle a quick refresh when they need it. Preparing for Bad Experiences at the Dog Park We have taken our two dogs to the dog park hundreds of times, and very rarely is there any problem at all. That said, they do happen, and it is crucial to be prepared. The goal is to prevent them from taking chase. You can offer treats, call their name, and squeak a toy you brought with you. You do not want to make negative noise — such as yelling at your dog — because this will not encourage them to come back to you. Dog fights. Well-socialized dogs can still get into fights with other dogs. It might be that one tackled the other too hard or that they were both going for the same toy. Whatever the cause, resist the urge to jump in the middle to break them up. Dog fights are dangerous, and you should avoid getting physically involved. Instead, call your dog to you. Even if they do not immediately stop and come to you, they know you are there. Then make a loud noise, such as clapping or whistling, to get the attention of both dogs. Alert others in the hopes that the owner of the other involved dog s can recall their own dog. Ideally, everyone at a dog park would be well-versed in dealing with dogs, but this is not always the case. For example, someone might run up to your dog and roughly pet them. This is not safe behavior. You do not have to aggressively confront the offending person, but you can politely tell them to please approach your dog slowly, to let your dog come to them, or to leave your dog alone. This can feel uncomfortable, but it can also prevent unnecessary issues with your dog. Post navigation. They are unable to look after themselves and are fully dependant on their mothers as the only senses they have are taste and touch. Mini Bernedoodles spend majority of these 2 weeks sleeping and nestling as close to their mother as they can. Their muscles are not developed and they cannot walk. At the beginning of this period they will get their hearing and sense of smell. Their eyes and ears open so they become much more inquisitive about the world. They start to interact with litter mates, bark and walk a little as their muscles start to get stronger. Mini Bernedoodles start to become more aware of their surroundings and start to interact with others. By 8 weeks, they have full use of their senses and usually go to their new home. Many Mini Bernedoodles undergo a big growth spurt at this age as they are only eating puppy food now. At this age, your Mini Bernedoodle will be at least half their adult weight. Female Berneoodles go through their first heat if they are not desexed. At this age Mini Bernedoodles are extremely active and also very inquisitive. They love exploring their world and learning new things. Unfortunately, this is the age where you might start having problems with your Mini Bernedoodle as it is the adolescent stage. Mini Bernedoodles may start displaying some regressive behavior like not listening to your training commands, being a bit aggressive or chewing up stuff. This is especially the case if your Mini Bernedoodle is not desexed as their hormones will start to kick in. Check out the adorable Bernedoodle puppies that are currently available here! PuppySpot is a dog adoption website that connects breeders with prospective pet owners. They have a zero tolerance policy for puppy mills which is why they screen every breeder annually! They have placed over , puppies in homes and offer various trusted, USDA-certified transportation options to deliver your puppy to your home safely! Further Reading.

Breeds The link has been copied! The Bernedoodle is a hybrid dog that combines the intelligence and of the Poodle with the robust and loyal personality of the Bernese Mountain Dog. Bernedoodles are also known for having low-shedding coats, which makes them a good choice for people with allergies or who prefer a breed that doesn't shed excessively. If you are curious about the size of a full grown Bernedoodle, read on as we break them all down. Size Categories of a Full Grown Bernedoodles 1. Standard Bernedoodle Size Standard Bernedoodles vary in size, with some being larger or smaller than others. However, on average, a full-grown standard Bernedoodle weighs between 50 and 90 pounds and stands 22 to 29 inches. This size range is considered to be a standard or medium Bernedoodle. It's crucial to note that the size of a standard Bernedoodle can vary depending on the size of the Poodle and Bernese Mountain Dog parents used in the crossbreeding process. For example, suppose a toy poodle is used as one of the parents. In that case, the resulting Bernedoodle puppies may be smaller than a standard Poodle. Similarly, suppose a standard Bernese Mountain Dog is used as one of the parents. In that case, the resulting Bernedoodle puppies may be larger than if a smaller Poodle was used. Features of a Full Grown Standard Bernedoodle These are energetic and active dogs that need frequent training and psychological stimulation. This dog is highly intelligent and can be coached to execute several tasks, such as discipline and swiftness courses. A standard full grown Bernedoodle can live a long time with its owner with appropriate monitoring and training. Mini Bernedoodle Size The mini Bernedoodle size is a smaller version of the standard Bernedoodle breed. Similar to standard Bernedoodles, mini Bernedoodles are hybrid dogs that carry the characteristics of the Poodle and the Bernese Mountain Dog. However, a full grown mini Bernedoodle size is smaller than their bigger sized kinds. On average, the mini Bernedoodle size will often be between 20 and 50 pounds and stand 14 to 22 inches high. This can be considered a medium sized dog. Additionally, the full size mini Bernedoodle size depends on the parents involved in the breeding process. Mini Bernedoodles are routinely created by breeding a moyan poodle or a mini poodle with a Bernese Mountain Dog. This crossbreeding procedure results in smaller Bernedoodle puppies that are more active and easily managed in tinier living spaces or for owners with less time for exercise. Features of a mini Bernedoodle Despite their relatively smaller size, mini Bernedoodles are still energetic and active dogs that require frequent training and mental stimulation. Mini Bernedoodles are intelligent dogs and can be coached to perform various duties, such as obedience training and agility courses. Similar to their full-grown kinds, mini Bernedoodles can make good therapy dogs and provide great companions for families with children. With proper care and training, mini Bernedoodles can live long, healthy lives with their owners. Similar to full-grown and mini Bernedoodles, toy Bernedoodles are crossbred dogs that combine the traits of the Poodle and the Bernese Mountain Dog. However, toy Bernedoodles are smaller than their full-grown and mini counterparts. On average, a toy Bernedoodle weighs between 10 and 20 pounds and stands 10 to 14 inches tall. Additionally, the toy Bernedoodle size will depend on the size of the parents used in the breeding process. Toy Bernedoodles are often created by crossbreeding a tiny or toy Poodle with a small Bernese Mountain Dog. This process results in even smaller Bernedoodle puppies that are more compact and easier to manage by busy masters living in smaller spaces. Characteristics of Toy Bernedoodles Toy Bernedoodles appear to be the smallest of their kind but are still strong dogs and require steady coaching and psychological stimulation. Comparing them to their other kinds, these dogs are sharp intellectually. They can be instructed to carry out several duties, such as obedience monitoring and agility teachings. Toy Bernedoodles are also regarded to be exemplary therapy dogs and can live longer under good care and training. Limitations of Toy Bernedoodles It is important to remember that toy Bernedoodles are more prone to particular health issues due to their small size. These issues may include dental problems, respiratory issues, and joint problems. Toy Bernedoodle owners should note these potential health issues and work closely with their veterinarian to ensure that their dog receives appropriate care and medical attention. However, these dogs need regular grooming to maintain their healthy coat. This routine may include frequent brushing, baths, nail trimmings, and ear cleanings. Additionally, the Bernedoodles breed is often used as service and therapy dogs due to their calm and gentle nature. The Bernadoodle dog breed is among the most juvenile, dating back to the early s. This calm and easy-going dog goes by other names, such as Bernesedoodle, Bernese Mountain Dog, or the Bernepoo mix. This breed of dog comes in various sizes, including standard Bernedoodles, mini Bernedoodles, and toy Bernedoodles, and can have a wide range of colors in their coat. They were originally used as farm dogs, where they performed tasks such as pulling carts and guarding livestock. The breed gets its name from the canton of Bern, where they were originally developed. It was recognized as a breed by the Swiss Kennel Club in , and the breed was first imported to the United States in .Today, they are still used for work on farms in some parts of the world, but they are also popular as family pets. They are known for their intelligence, strength, and versatility, and they are often used in search and rescue, therapy, and as guide dogs. They are also shown in conformation shows and participate in other canine sports such as obedience and agility. The Poodle The Purebred Poodle is a breed of dog that is believed to have originated in Germany, although the exact origins of the breed are unclear. The breed was originally developed as a water retriever, and the name "Poodle" is thought to be derived from the German word "pudel," which means "to splash in the water. The Standard Poodle is the largest of the three sizes and was originally used as a working dog, while the Miniature Poodle and Toy Poodle were bred to be companion dogs. Poodles became popular in France in the 18th century, and they were often kept by aristocrats as lapdogs. The breed became popular in the United States in the 19th century, and the American Kennel Club recognized the Poodle as a breed in .Today, Poodles are known for their intelligence, trainability, and versatility, and they are often used in canine sports such as obedience, agility, and tracking. They are also popular as family pets and are often shown in conformation shows. Understanding What "Designer Breeds" Means A designer breed is a type of dog that is created by intentionally breeding two purebred dogs of different breeds. The intention is to create a new breed that combines the characteristics of both parent breeds. Designer breeds are also sometimes called "hybrid" or "crossbred" dogs. This is exactly what a Bernedoodle is, regardless of the size you are interested in. Designer breeds are created for a variety of reasons. Some people breed designer dogs in an effort to create a breed that has the desirable qualities of both parent breeds, such as the intelligence and trainability of a Poodle with the low-shedding coat of a Bichon Frise. Others breed designer dogs simply because they find the combination of two specific breeds to be aesthetically pleasing. It's important to keep in mind that designer breeds are not recognized as official breeds by major kennel clubs, such as the American Kennel Club AKC. This means that they are not eligible to participate in AKC-sanctioned conformation shows or other events. Coat Colors for Bernedoodles Bernedoodles come in several coat colors: white, black, cream, and brown. These colors can appear in solid form or mixed with others. For example, a Bernedoodle may have a black and white coat, a cream and brown coat, or any other combination of these colors. However, it is important to know that the coat color of a Bernedoodle depends on the coat colors of the Poodle and Bernese Mountain Dog parents involved in the breeding process. For example, suppose a Bernese Mountain Dog with a black and white coat is bred with a Poodle with a cream and brown coat. In that case, the resulting Bernedoodle puppies may have a variety of coat colors, including black, white, cream, and brown. The coat colors of a Bernedoodle are primarily soft and fluffy, with a wavy or curly texture. The Bernedoodle breed is known for its intelligence and low-shedding coat, as well as its loyal and friendly personality. It is the perfect breed for anyone looking for a little playmate; furthermore, you can have eyes on your little dog at all times with the Fi collar. With a long-lasting battery and an in-built GPS, you can track your pup's movements wherever, whenever. Here are some things that a Bernedoodle may enjoy regardless of size : Playing fetch with a ball or other toy Going for walks or runs in the park Swimming in a pool or lake Going on hikes or exploring new trails Playing with other dogs or children Learning new tricks or commands Participating in canine sports such as obedience, agility, or tracking Snuggling on the couch or in bed with their owner Chewing on bones or other appropriate toys Going on car rides and exploring new places. It's important to keep in mind that every dog is unique and may have different interests and preferences. It's important to get to know your Bernedoodle and find activities that they enjoy and that are appropriate for their age and abilities. Final Thoughts In conclusion, the Bernedoodle is a unique and wonderful breed that combines the best qualities of the Bernese Mountain Dog and the Poodle. With their intelligence, affectionate nature, and hypoallergenic coat, Bernedoodles make great companions for families and individuals of all ages. Whether you're looking for a playful and energetic dog to join your family or a calm and loving companion to keep you company, the Bernedoodle is definitely worth considering. As with any breed, it's important to do your research and understand the specific needs and characteristics of the Bernedoodle before adding one to your household. With proper training, socialization, and care, a Bernedoodle can bring joy and love to your life for many years to come. Visit the Off Leash blog at TryFi. Would you like to learn more about TryFi. The Fi Dog Collar is a GPS tracking collar that not only tracks your dog's location, activity level, and sleep pattern, but also alerts you if your dog escapes. If your dog escapes, this is the fastest way to find him. Give the Fi Dog Collar a try today! The link has been copied! You might also like. The three Standard Poodles are standing on the field. How Bernedoodle Gender Affects Size? Male dogs of any breed are almost always taller and weigh more than their female counterparts. In contrast, a female Bernedoodle of the same age and height might already have reached its maximum adult size. A Bernedoodle waits for his owner. Instead, they breed a Toy Poodle with a Miniature Bernedoodle. That way, they can achieve a smaller size. You can expect your Tiny Bernedoodle to grow up to around 17 inches tall. Bernedoodle puppy lying on the grass. These dogs grow between 18 and 22 inches tall and weigh anywhere from 25 to 50 pounds. How long do Bernedoodles live? They grow between 23 to 29 inches tall and weigh 70 to 90 pounds. Due to what some people see as a size gap between the Miniature and Standard Bernedoodle, some refer to dogs between 19 to 25 or 21 to 24 inches tall as Medium Bernedoodles. The 19 to inch range is typically for female Bernedoodles, while the 21 to inch range is for males. In either case, these dogs can average 35 to 55 pounds, making them excellent medium-sized dogs to have in your home. So just how big do Bernedoodles get? Below are other situations that can cause your Bernedoodle to vary in size. Height of the parents Weight of the parents Generation of Bernedoodle As you can imagine, genetics plays a significant role in determining how large a Bernedoodle will grow. The generation of your Bernedoodle is also a vital factor. Since Bernese Mountain Dogs are larger than Poodles, second, third, or more distant generation Bernedoodles that acquire a higher percentage of Bernese Mountain Dogs will likely be taller. In contrast, Bernedoodles with two or more generations of genes with a higher Poodle percentage are often shorter. The bottom line is that the further you stray from first-generation Bernedoodles, the harder it can be to predict the size your Bernedoodle puppy will grow into. One of the best ways to do this in terms of ensuring proper growth is by feeding your Bernedoodle puppy a well-balanced diet. The best puppy food for Bernedoodles includes the following macro and micronutrients: Protein. There are four Bernedoodle sizes—tiny, mini, medium, and standard. Read on to find out how big do Bernedoodles get, what impacts the height and weight of a Bernedoodle, and when do Bernedoodles stop growing! The Toy Poodle stands around 10 inches in height and weighs between 6 and 9 pounds. The Mini Bernedoodle size varies between inches in height and pounds. Although you should always be careful about selecting a responsible doodle breeder , you should be even more wary when considering a toy or teacup size. Unfortunately, there are some unethical breeders out there who prioritize tiny stature over healthy puppies and those dogs often have major health problems throughout their life. Click here to get an instant, online pet insurance quote from Healthy Paws! How big do Tiny Bernedoodles get? On average, the full grown Tiny Bernedoodle size is around 17 inches tall 50 cm and weighs between 10 pounds and 24 pounds. Cody the Tiny Bernedoodle is 18 pounds. Photo courtesy of Caryn Zeman on Facebook. The Mini Poodle is around 15 inches in height, and pounds in weight. The Bernese Mountain Dog, on the other hand, is inches in height and pounds. How big do Mini Bernedoodles get? The full grown Mini Bernedoodle size varies between inches at the shoulder cm and they weigh around 25 pounds to 50 pounds. Luna the Mini Bernedoodle is 28 pounds. Photo courtesy of Christa Szczepanski Savage on Facebook. It is often used to describe larger Miniature Bermedoodles or smaller Standard Bernedoodles. How big do Medium Bernedoodles get? The Medium Bernedoodle size is generally between inches tall at the shoulder. Lucy Belle the Medium Bernedoodle is 40 pounds. Photo courtesy of Skinny Kidplaying on Facebook. The Standard Poodle is inches in height at the shoulder and weighs pounds. The Bernese Mountain Dog is usually slightly larger at inches in height, and pounds in weight. How big do Standard Bernedoodles get? A Standard Bernedoodle is generally between inches tall at the shoulder centimeters. While the weight of a Standard Bernedoodle starts at 50 pounds, they typically are between 70 and 90 pounds and can even go above pounds! Calvin the Standard Bernedoodle is 95 pounds. Photo courtesy of Lisa M. Harkins on Facebook. What Impacts the Height and Weight of a Bernedoodle? Some of these include their gender, the height and weight of the parents, and which generation of Bernedoodle your dog is. The combination of all of these factors make it somewhat difficult to predict exactly how big your dog will be, but it helps us come up with a general estimate. First, their gender plays a role in answering the question of how big do Bernedoodles get. Should you choose a male vs female Bernedoodle? In most cases, the height and weight of a male Bernedoodle will be slightly larger than a female Bernedoodle. In the smaller Tiny Bernedoodle size and Mini Bernedoodle size, the height and weight difference between males and females may not be as noticeable as with the larger Medium Bernedoodle size and Standard Bernedoodle size. Another important aspect to consider is the size of the parents. The genetics that are passed from the parents to their offspring play a role in how large a Bernedoodle will get. However, keep in mind that genetics are tough to predict. Finally, which generation of Bernedoodle your dog is will be a big part of how big they will get! Check out our article on Bernedoodle generations to learn more! Put simply, a Bernedoodle that has more Poodle than Bernese Mountain dog could be slightly smaller than a Bernedoodle that has more Bernese Mountain dog than Poodle. Simply, the higher percentage of the larger dog, the larger the dog is likely to be. When Do Bernedoodles Stop Growing? Savor these puppy days— time will fly by before you know it! Bernedoodles usually reach full size anywhere from 1. Just like other factors, this relies significantly on genetics. Bernese Mountain Dogs, like other large breeds, tend to grow over a longer period of time. Poodles, on the other hand, are a smaller breed and are generally done growing by 18 months of age. Due to differences in stature, in general, a Tiny Bernedoodle will be fully grown sooner than a Mini Bernedoodle, which will be fully grown before a Medium Bernedoodle or a Standard Bernedoodle. Related Articles:. Use tab to navigate through the menu items. What IS a Bernedoodle? These are NOT mutts which implies a breeding between unknown breeds or not carefully planned. These are designer breeds that are bred for a specific purpose. We produce an incredible bernedoodle that displays the qualities of both our champion line Standard Poodles and the Bernese Mountain Dog pedigrees. The advantage of a carefully planned mixed breed is that you get the added advantage of a phenomenon called "hybrid vigor". This process shuffles new combinations of genes that helps to increase longevity and decrease the usual ailments that impact many purebred dogs such as various forms of inherited types of cancer not all cancers have a genetic basis such as small and large cell lymphoma which is usually a result from environmental exposure. The bernedoodles are super healthy and are not as prone to the same issues that Bernese mountain dogs and standard poodles are. As a result, you have a family member for a lot longer and that will live a vibrant and healthy life if properly cared for diet, exercise, and family integration are all important components toward helping the dog to live a long happy life with you.You can see the links above about the qualities of Standard Poodles and Bernese Mountain Dogs as both are extraordinary breeds in their own right and for many, purebreds of these may be a great option as well. We prefer the Bernedoodle as they get the best of both breeds, incredibly loyal, goofy, smart, playful, intelligent, and has one of the best dog personalities we have seen in a family dog. The Premier F1 Standard Bernedoodle is a low- to mostly nonshedding we use standard poodles that do not carry the improper coat alleles and Bernese mountain dogs that have thick wavy curly coats.If you want a guarantee on non shedding, then you should try to select an F1b or F1bb bernedoodle. Both look amazingly similar to the F1 standard bernedoodles but maybe a little smaller. We will produce about 2 F1b and F1bb standard bernedoodle litters per year for those wanting a more curly coat in their bernedoodles. Premier Bernedoodles love to be with the family and do not do well in enviroments of isolation. Wherever the family is, that's right where they want to be. They are stunning dogs, and you'll likely get alot of attention and people asking you what kind of dog you have. They are beautiful and along with their incredibly gentle personalities, you will have an absolutely stunning dog. They are a perfect companion dog that love to go on walks through the city or hikes in the woods or mountains or a swim at the beach. They love it all and will be at your side the entire time. They don't tend to wander away as they prefer to be with you.They equally love just hanging out with you on the couch watching your favorite movie or watching you reading a book. They really love it all as long as you're a part of it. They are so loyal to the family. Bernedoodle puppies do have energy like most puppies, and this will continue thru about years of age at which time they really mellow out. They are not nervous nor hyper but will need some off leash time where they can really stretch their legs and run. The old motto "a tired puppy is a good puppy" always prevails! Just make sure they have a lot of fresh water and a cool spot to cool off afterward. Due to the the recombination and shuffling of new genetic variations, they do show some variation in their coloration however they also all have a common morphology that tells you it's a bernedoodle. Although we do take deposits on a first come, first pick basis, we will know the puppies well, their personalities, and can help select a puppy that best fits your lifestyle and what you are looking for. We only use Standard Poodles and Bernese Mountain Dogs to produce our Premier Bernedoodles so that any dog we accept into our Premier Bernedoodle program have passed stringent health tests, display family oriented personalities, and exhibit the best of conformation so that our bernedoodles are absolutely beautiful. Be very cautious when purchasing a purebred or bernedoodle without doing your due diligence as the puppies will always be cute, but will exhibit the personalities of the bloodline used later in life.Therefore, use a reptutable breeder that has invested in the dogs they use for their breeding programs and that raise them as their own family members. They should be able to produce their pedigrees as well, and should have both parents on site so you can see how they react to you. We are very Type A when it comes to the quality of dogs which makes it more difficult to give referrals. We are always going to be biased and believe that the wait for a Premier Bernedoodle is worth it and you'll be very happy you did! Also you can visit your local humane society and help rescue a dog at the shelter.If you have young kids be sure to get a younger dog from the shelter that can adapt to your family. But if you're looking for a unique new family member, a Premier Bernedoodle will be a true delight. Colors and Fur Our Premier Bernedoodles will be traditional tri-color much like a Bernese Mountain Dog , abstract tricolor similar to a traditional tricolor with less white in the face , sable similar to a traditional tri-color but has more reddish-browns due to the poodle genetics we use , phantom, merle, merle tricolor, or bi-colored brown and white, black and white, or shades thereof. Our F1b's will consist of black and whites, traditional tricolors, abstract tricolors, and lots of variable brown and reddish brown and whites. Color never reflects temperament and personality so usually most people don't really care too much what color they are. They are all really beautiful. Although there's variation due to the hybrid vigor present as a result of the recombination of genes in many arrays, there is definitely a bernedoodle appearance that is fairly consistent. If you let the hair grow, they will look like big shaggy dogs that you can't help but to give a big hug to. And they enjoy every minute of it! Our Premier Bernedoodles will tend to have wavy curly coats due to the coat types we require in our bernese mountain dogs which helps to minimize or eliminate shedding.We do make sure that our standard poodles do not carry the genetic marker known as the "Improper Coat" allele or IC for short. Wavy curly coats do require a little more grooming as compared to straight, but many, straight coats shed more.Although they are considered to be large, they don't act like a large dog in the house. They are generally very careful and calm natured as adults however they do have some puppy-fun energy thru the puppyhood stages and thru 3 years of age. They love people and other pets! We do thorough genetic testing of our adults that we use in our breeding program to assure that you are purchasing the healthiest of bernedoodle puppies. Our Bernese mountain dogs come from very long-lived blood lines in Western Europe and these longer lifespans is one of the many reasons we obtain our Berners from several specific populations known for their longevity. Obviously we can't guarantee lifespan as there are many variables outside of our control not to mention, environment, stress, climate, food, etc. But track record seems to show a longer lifespan. What's the Difference? An F1b is an F1 standard Bernedoodle backcrossed to a standard poodle or could be a backcross to a Bernese mountain dog but we generally use the poodle as the backcross. An F1bb is an F1b standard Bernedoodle backcrossed to a standard poodle. Behaviorally they are all very similar with the F1b and F1bb's being slightly smaller than our F1 standards and tend to have slightly curlier coats to a tight wave. If you're looking for a smaller standard Bernedoodle these would be a great option. Pictures are posted below with the other pictures. We continue to get lots of praise from those that have purchased our F1b and F1bb standard bernedoodles. Is the Bernedoodle for Everybody? I would like to think so, but if you do not plan on being with your bernedoodle and keeping it with you, in your home, as part of your home, this is definitely not the dog for you. They thrive on being with the family and not isolated we believe this is the case for all dogs, and especially bernedoodles. Any of our puppies kept in a permanent kennel situation, on a tether, or the like, will violate the terms and conditions of our puppy contract and will have to render the puppy or dog back to Premier Doodles see puppy contract in link above. We definitely support crate training, but these dogs are not meant to live their life in a crate nor kennel! If you want a pet that prefers to be in isolation, you may want to consider a nonsocial pet perhaps a Betta fish! Yes we have done a lot of the hard work the first 8 weeks as we do extensive early neurological stimulation bio-sensor and Puppy Culture program, along with starting crate training and housebreaking, BUT, they are puppies and will need your undivided attention for the next weeks as they work towards being completely housebroken and earning more privileges. They have been communicating with their siblings for the past 8 weeks using their mouth. During their normal daily interactions, you will occasionally hear a loud "yelp" in response to one biting another too hard. This yelp usually ends the mouthing behavior. Now puppies have fur and people generally do not. When you bring your bernedoodle home, they will likely display some degree of mouthing behavior toward their human family. This will usually stop this behavior. We then redirect their desire to mouth to something more appropriate like a chew toy and after a few seconds of cooperating we praise them. The good news.We have a Puppy Guide under our tab "Puppy Central" on how to unpack this process so that you can have success. If you put them time in early, they will have this knocked out in a few days. The rule of thumb is to get them outside ALOT.Be sure to purchase two Midwest XL crates can get from our Puppy Store , one for the back door and one next to your bed. The power of meiosis specialized cell division event that occurs in the reproductive organs, ovaries for females and testes for males and crossing over assures that each offspring will be diverse and different and this difference will be noticeable in color and a little bit in behavior. All will be superior, but some will be more playful and others less so, some will mouth more than others, etc. Available Puppies.Check out our "Available Puppies" tab at the top to find out how to get onto our Master List for a future puppy! These canines are loyal, friendly, and gentle toward their family. These canines require at least 1 hour of walking daily to keep their body and mind fresh, fit, and happy. Breeders cross mini or toy Poodles with Bernese Mountain Dog to get these cute tiny and toy versions of Bernedoodle. These canines have higher stress levels as compared to other sizes. One of the main reasons is their small size, and this is why small dogs bark a lot and have anxiety issues. However, these canines are cheerful and highly energetic dogs. Which Bernedoodle Size is Ideal for You? After reading all the information, you might wonder which Bernedoodle dog size is best for you. There are many factors from which you can decide which size of dog you want, such as space and time. Suppose you have plenty of space in your home and you have a lot of time to spend with your dog; the Standard size is the best option for you! These canines have the best personality and temperament. Even though you have a pet for the first time, the Bernedoodle in standard size is a great choice. But you also have to give them a large space to play around and give them at least hours for exercise and activity. You can select the Full Grown Bernedoodle or Bernedoodle puppy according to your requirements. They were bred solely for companionship, so they love attention and lots of cuddles from their families. Bernedoodles are just as happy curling up on the couch as they are hiking a trail alongside their humans. They're playful and active dogs who can be willful as puppies but are highly trainable thanks to their big brains. Appearance Though Bernese mountain dogs have a black, tan, and white uniform, poodles can have a much wider range of coat colors. Because of this, Bernedoodles can vary in color. While they're typically tricolor like their mountain dog mom or dad, they can also be pure black, black and white, or a random mix. Their fur can also be curly like their poodle parent or straighter like a Bernese mountain dog. As a general rule, the straighter the coat, the more your Bernedoodle will shed. In both cases, the thickness of a Bernedoodle mane makes this breed suitable for colder temperatures. A curly Bernedoodle coat is typically sought-after because it's considered hypoallergenic. While no dog is percent allergen-friendly, this breed's coat can be a good option for those who tend to sneeze, sniffle, or itch around dogs. Bernedoodle breeders typically offer a tiny, miniature, and standard size, which allows for flexibility with the care and living needs of each pup. A smaller mix could easily live in an apartment as long as she gets plenty of walks and exercise. The standard Bernedoodle can reach up to 29 inches in height and weigh up to 90 pounds. A mini is between 18—22 inches tall and weighs 20—45 pounds. A "tiny," bred from a toy poodle, is only 12—17 inches and weighs 10—24 pounds, according to the United Bernedoodle Registry. Temperament Affectionate and playful, Bernedoodles are a perfect family pet. They are especially fond of younger kids and provide a wonderful lifelong companion as children grow into adults. Though they're intelligent pups , they tend to be goofy and love attention from their humans. Though they can't get enough of their family, Bernedoodles might first be apprehensive, sensitive, and skittish around strangers. As with all breeds, it's important to socialize your Bernedoodle puppy so she'll be comfortable and affectionate around new people, too. She can be very charming and charismatic with positive reinforcement training. Personal space is not a part of their vocabulary, and they should not be left alone much. Loneliness can result in separation anxiety, which could cause nervous habits like whining or chewing. They will end feeling more fulfilled and have less anxious, OCD behaviors. And no matter the size, this hybrid is especially gentle-natured and loves children. They're so gentle, in fact, they don't make good guard dogs: They bark infrequently and are more likely to befriend an intruder than scare them away. Care Most often, a Bernedoodle will have a wavy or curly coat that's ideal for those with allergies. In some cases, a Bernedoodle can have a straighter coat similar to that of a Bernese mountain dog. This means they'll shed more and might not agree with an owner who's allergic to pet dander. Once the litter is a few weeks old, a Bernedoodle breeder will be able to tell what kind of coat each puppy will have in order to match the right dog to the right owner. But with that curly coat comes a greater need for grooming. Bernedoodles don't shed much , so they'll need frequent brushing to prevent painful matting. Most doodles love being brushed, and the routine allows the owner to bond with their dog. Keep in mind a very curly, "hypoallergenic" dog will need a haircut every few months. Just because they're low-shedding doesn't mean they're low maintenance! They'll need daily walkies to burn off their energy, but so long as their physical needs are met, they likely won't turn to undesirable behaviors like digging to keep themselves entertained. They'll also need consistent social stimulation to reinforce positive behaviors. The more exposure they have to new pets and humans, the more likely they are to be well-behaved when introduced to a foreign person or situation. A Bernedoodle's smarts makes her typically easy to train. It also means she can learn behaviors good or bad quickly—that's why it's important to keep up with training, even past her puppy days. Training a Bernedoodle requires positive reinforcement and, in some cases, a high level of patience. Should the puppy inherit the Bernese's willfullness or the poodle's high energy, they'll need more of your time and attention. Health The Bernedoodle lifespan is 12—18 years. Luckily, the hybrid breed does not inherit the same health risks as the Bernese mountain dog. The Bernese side of their lineage has a life expectancy of only seven years and a high rate of cancer , hip and elbow dysplasia , heart disease , and epilepsy. And while Bernedoodles are far healthier than a purebred Bernese, they can still be "predisposed to hip dysplasia, elbow dysplasia, ocular diseases, and some allergies ," Christman says. Just be on the lookout for [warning signs like] excessive drooling and ability to gain some weight quickly. Hot spots are primarily caused by excessive licking or chewing of an area. This is why it's so important to keep up with grooming—a Bernedoodle is more likely to pick at their skin when her coat is dirty and matted. History Being a relatively new breed, the history book on Bernedoodles is a short one. After years of breeding Bernese mountain dogs, Sherry Rupke of SwissRidge Bernedoodles wanted a way to make the purebreds more allergen-friendly and free from the health issues that plague the breed. Thus, the Bernedoodle or at least the first intentional pairing of a Bernese mountain dog and a poodle was born in .Now, dog owners everywhere have fallen in love with the loyal, loving breed that looks like a huggable teddy bear. She has more than 26, followers! Actress and filmmaker Greta Gerwig reportedly takes her mini Bernedoodle, Wizard, everywhere with her. Was this page helpful? Bernedoodle Temperament The Bernedoodle combines the intelligence of a poodle with the loyalty and easygoing temperament of a Bernese mountain dog, resulting in a cross that has all the best qualities of the two breeds. One of the most important characteristics to consider is Bernedoodle size, which varies based on whether the parent dogs are small, medium or large. Bernese Mountain Dog Size According to the American Kennel Club, a female Bernese mountain dog usually stands 23 to 26 inches high and weighs an average of 70 to 95 pounds , while a male Bernese mountain dog averages 25 to .The standard poodle is typically over 15 inches tall and weighs between 40 and 50 pounds for a female or 60 to 70 pounds for a male. Toy poodles are much smaller, with a standard height of no more than 10 inches and an average weight of 4 to 6 pounds. Bernedoodle Size Options Bernedoodle dogs come in four different sizes: micro, mini, medium and standard. The size of a Bernedoodle puppy depends on the size of its parents. Micro Bernedoodle Size The micro bernedoodle is a cross between a mini bernedoodle and a mini poodle. Also referred to as a toy bernedoodle, the micro version of this breed tends to be more excitable than larger bernedoodles due to the heavy influence of the toy poodle in its breeding line. Full-grown micro bernedoodles typically weigh 10 to 30 pounds. Mini Bernedoodle Size Mini bernedoodles are the result of breeding between Bernese mountain dogs and mini or toy poodles. Average mini bernedoodle size ranges from 25 to 55 pounds. Medium Bernedoodle Size The next largest bernedoodle size is the medium bernedoodle, which results from a cross between two smaller standard bernedoodle dogs or a smaller standard poodle with a smaller Bernese mountain dog. Average medium bernedoodle size ranges from 45 to 70 pounds. These dogs typically have a shoulder height of 20 to 26 inches. Standard Bernedoodle Size A standard-size bernedoodle is the largest of the bernedoodle size options, usually weighing 70 pounds or more and measuring 23 to 29 inches high at the shoulder. There are two ways to produce a bernedoodle puppy: cross two standard bernedoodles or breed one poodle with one Bernese mountain dog. Allowing a poodle to mate with a Bernese mountain dog usually produces a healthier bernedoodle puppy because it pulls from a larger gene pool, reducing the risk that undesirable characteristics will be passed from the parents to the puppy. No matter what size it is, a Bernedoodle puppy has a wonderful temperament. The influence of the poodle makes bernedoodles intelligent and easy to train, while the influence of the Bernese mountain dog makes a Bernedoodle puppy loyal and a bit goofy. Trained properly, a Bernedoodle makes a wonderful companion for children and adults alike. Size is an important consideration, however, as it affects how well a Bernedoodle fits into your home. You may also want to consider a micro or mini bernedoodle if you have arthritis or another medical condition that would make it challenging to control a large dog on a leash. Micro and mini bernedoodles also make excellent companions for young children. Larger bernedoodles are an option if you have a larger home with plenty of room for exercise. Bernedoodle Size and Temperament Remember that the size of a Bernedoodle also affects its temperament. Smaller versions have more poodle characteristics, meaning they may have more energy than medium or standard bernedoodles. Micro and mini bernedoodles also tend to bark more than their larger counterparts. If you live in an apartment building or condominium, you may want to get a medium or standard bernedoodle to keep your neighbors happy. All four Bernedoodle sizes have positive qualities, but be sure to consider your living situation and personal needs when determining which one is right for you. Thinking carefully before you choose your Bernedoodle puppy can help you avoid some of the most common challenges of dog ownership. To learn more about our breeding standards or reserve a bernedoodle of your very own, contact us at or visit our website. Check out our guides on best dog food for Doodle puppies here. The age at which a Bernedoodle reaches its maximum height is very much dependent on their type. Smaller dogs, such as Tiny Bernedoodles naturally achieve this much earlier at around months, while with Standard Bernedoodles may take up to 14 months to get to their full size. Miniature Bernedoodles will sit somewhere between this at months. When they get to their adult size, they will likely continue to grow outwards as their muscles develop. This means their weight will continue to go up. You can calculate their potential adult weight by taking what they weigh at 18 weeks and multiplying it by two. Medium and Miniature Bernedoodles Medium and Miniature Bernedoodles usually get to half their full weight around 3. You can calculate their potential adult weight at 18 weeks by taking what they weigh at that age and multiplying it by two. Standard Bernedoodles Standard Bernedoodles usually get to half their full weight around 4. You can calculate their potential adult weight at 23 weeks by taking what they weigh at that age and multiplying it by two. While there are no guarantees with hybrid dogs breeds, careful observation of the various types and generations of Bernedoodles now allows us to make some pretty decent predictions on their adult size and weight. Their specific rate of growth, as well as their final size, has a lot to do with the type of parent Poodle used in the original, as well as in any subsequent breeding. This enables us to categorize Bernedoodles in Standard, Miniature and Tiny sizes. Smaller dogs will attain their adult size much sooner than their larger counterparts who may not reach full maturity until well into a year of their lives. Either way, their weight is likely to continue to increase even once their size is fixed. Hopefully, the information included here will allow you to do that with a fair degree of accuracy. It is not intended to be a substitute for qualified professional veterinary advice, diagnosis, or treatment. Always seek the advice of your veterinarian or other qualified animal health provider with any questions you may have. You Might Also Like.

German Shepherds are very gentle dogs and are much known for their protective traits. Unfortunately, last , there was a new adoption fee. Adopting a German Shepherd in Kentucky would now cost around dollars to dollars. These German Shepherds are provided with consistent medical care. Ever since the German Shepherd gets rescued, they will closely be monitored and have the privilege of being spayed and neutered. Care also includes all kinds of shots for dogs. Choosing a Good German Shepherd Rescue If you are trying to adopt a rescued German Shepherd from German Shepherd shelters, you might be confused about what you should consider. If you ask people to like your friends and family, they might have different opinions that confuse you. But there is not so much to consider. The fact that you chose to adopt a rescued German Shepherd rather than buying one is already one act of kindness. You might already know that there are so many rescued German Shepherds in the world and only a few German Shepherd shelters. If the German Shepherd comes at you with no hesitations and no aggressiveness, you would know that it was a good rescue. If the German Shepherd is warm and inviting on your first encounter, it is already a good rescue because there are no signs of trauma or aggression. How do I pick a good rescue German Shepherd? You might ask yourself what kind of German Shepherd you should adopt and rehome. You can look for outgoing dogs. You can tell that by observing their body language when you first meet. However, if you are also not down to unlimited patience, you can avoid a shy German Shepherd. These dogs can be a little bit of work because they are afraid and run away from you. If you are outgoing and are a very hands-on person, you might not enjoy your German Shepherd because of its shyness. Dogs can be trained and can also be flexible like some people are. If you love a challenge, you can pick any dog you want. Summary There are several shelters in Kentucky where you may locate a German Shepherd to adopt. Adoption, of course, comes with a slew of processes, duties, and criteria. The above list should save you a lot of time while looking for German Shepherd rescues in Kentucky. In this manner, you may be sure that you are adopting the best German Shepherd. Other States. Our highly-qualified staff is proud to serve pet owners and their companions from Somerset, KY and surrounding communities. We combine the latest veterinary technology, such as digital radiography , with our experience in animal healthcare to help your pet live life to the fullest! Kayla has been an employee of Animal Care Center for 10 years, and although she was born in Ashland, KY, she moved to Somerset in .We think of Kayla as our resident expert on snakes, and she loves to go hiking, collect movies, and all things related to music! During her free time you can find her spending time with her family, friends or leading the cheerleading team at Nancy Elementary. Her passion for animals started at a young age. I am a vet student at Morehead State University. I enjoy spending time with my boxer, Axel; I also love to hunt, fish, and spend time outdoors. I grew up on a farm raising beef cattle, and that is one of my passions in life as well. I have always been a huge animal advocate. I love going on road trips with my dogs and having new experiences. Madison attended Somerset Community College and took the basic classes to pursue her dream of becoming a veterinary technician. In her spare time Madison enjoys spending time with her family and attending First Apostolic Church. I graduated from Pulaski County High School. Gabe and I enjoy taking long naps and watching our favorite shows! Taylor attended and graduated from Pulaski County High School in .In her spare time, she loves to travel and tackle outdoor adventures! I was born here in Somerset and currently attend Somerset High School. I love traveling and learning about the world, and of course, animals. Amanda Dorn Groomer I have always been around animals of all kinds. I started learning how to groom alongside my mom when I was very young, and was able to do full grooms by the time I graduated high school. I now groom small dogs and cats, with a focus on cats. I spend my free time hiking, horseback riding, worship leading in my church, and pretty much anything else creative. I love hanging out with my two cats, Ninja and Edgar. As an Eagle Scout, I enjoy camping and hiking, or really anything to do with the outdoors! Hannah Burchfield Kennel Technician Hey! This is Lily. She has been with me all through high school and 5 years of college. I am very passionate about animals and rescue every chance I get. I look forward to working towards my Veterinary Technician degree in the near future to continue my love for animals as well as obtain a wildlife rehabilitation license. In my free time I love to be outdoors, spend time with family, and spoiling my pets. The Animal Care Center is currently accepting applications for bright, dedicated individuals to join our growing staff. If interested, please contact us at , or stop by the clinic to pick up an application. To learn more about our wonderful staff or to schedule an appointment, give us a call today at .We are happy to answer any questions you may have regarding our facility or services. Animal Care Center of Somerset.

Commencing Marker Training your chocolate labrador pup Start Marker Training at 8 weeks of age When you take your 8 week old labrador pup to their new home, you should commence their obedience training immediately. Just repetitively say yes and give your pup a treat immediately. Then familiarise your labrador pup with a leash. Clip the leash to their collar and allow the pup to roam a little. This way they will adjust to its weight and the sensation around their neck. If you try to walk your pup straight away, they will simply resist. Don't pull and command, but rather cultivate a positive experience with a leash. Secondly, I recommend that you feed your new labrador pup with a leash attached until they learn to sit. This will establish you as the master and immediately teach the pup restraint. Do not give the food bowl to your dog without firstly bringing him under your control. Even with my mature dogs, I will not let them feed except on command. Feeding should never be random. Hold the leash close to the labrador pup's neck and push their rear end down to the seated position. When they are sitting, enthusiastically praise your pup and, only then, reward their obedience with food. Remember, food should always represent a reward for good behaviour. They hear tones and frequencies. When we train them, we are conditioning them to associate a particular sound with a response so that it means something to them. Labrador puppies like all dogs learn contextually and by consistent repetition. In this way, a labrador pup learns to associate sounds with responses and rewards. This is why you should reward your pup immediately when they have performed a command correctly, even if they did not intend to do so. In the early stages, I prefer to teach a dog to 'sit,' then move on to 'staying' before teaching them to 'come'. This is especially so while they are still a puppy. Remember that a 12 month old dog is still a pup. They are regularly hyperactive and overstimulated. The goal is to get your labrador puppy into a calm and submissive state as often as you can. Ensure you are demonstrating a calm and composed, yet assertive demeanor. When you are in charge, your labrador pup will willingly sit and look to you for direction. Exercise patience and be repetitive but don't overdo it. Remember that the time you put in now will help you bond with your young dog, even if they do not appear to be advancing quickly. It will be a very worthwhile investment in a long term relationship for years to come. Of these three basic commands, the 'stay' command will take more time to teach. When this is mastered and entrenched in your dog's obedience, it can save your dog from danger. You are teaching them associations, not English words. Sit Teaching your new labrador pup to sit should begin immediately when you take it home. Begin by feeding them on a leash. Hold the leash close to the pup's neck. Give the pup the 'sit' command, but don't reward them with food until they are sitting. In this way you have begun to condition the pup to the 'sit' command. This requires patience at meal time. Remember that a labrador pup requires 4 feeds a day for the first phase of their life. This gives you ample opportunity for repetition and reward. When the dog sits, reward them with a treat and a lot of enthusiastic praise. Each time they repeat the behaviour, reward them with a treat again. You can train your labrador pup for short intervals at any time. Carry a few small pieces of food. Call your pup, then reward them with lots of affirmation and a piece of food when they comply. Teach them to sit by offering a small treat. Say 'sit', then let them smell the food as you move your hand over their head. A labrador pup will automatically lift the nose in the air to follow the food. As the head moves up and back, the pup will tend to sit. Give lots of praise and gradually increase repetition as they associate the word 'sit' with the food. Stay Your Labrador pup will need to understand the 'sit' command before you advance to 'stay'. Before you give the 'stay' command, make sure that the dog is seated. To keep the dog in the sitting position, you will use your hand with the fingers pointing up and the palm in front of their face. To begin with, position yourself about half a metre away from your pup's face. Direct the 'stay' command calmly, with your hand up. Slowly take half a step back and remain there for 3 seconds to begin with. Then step back towards to the dog. Wait for another 3 sec and then reward your dog with a treat. Repeat this 5 times. Reward them at the end of each 'stay' routine by praising them enthusiastically and giving them a treat. Don't praise or reward the dog until they have remained seated in front of you for a minimum of 3 seconds when you return. Your puppy should not move a millimetre until you give the reward. If your dog breaks early, you have gone too far. Simply return to your dog, reset them in the seated position and begin the routine again. Come It is important to make sure your Labrador understands the 'stay' command before you begin the recall or 'come' command. Make sure you pup is seated before you give the 'come' command. As your walk away from your pup, maintain eye contact. Don't back away too far too soon. If the pup breaks early, give the 'come' command to establish association. When you call your dog to 'come', do not let them jump up on you. If the dog wants to stand on its back legs and reach up, place the palm of your hand on their head and hold it away from you. I suggest that you don't say 'no! The down command should be used as a more constructive training command. If your pup jumps up, make your disapproval known by using a 'dog' sound; 'Ahhh! If you find yourself becoming frustrated, then put the pup away and start again tomorrow. Don't take it personally and don't blame the dog. Corrections are necessary, but not out of frustration or anger. If it's not working, then look at your consistency and your communication. If the training is a positive experience then you will strengthen the bonding and learning process. Develop consistent communication and trust with your dog in the process of the training. Labrador pups love to please and they will be very proud of themselves when they accomplish the command and gain your approval. Pawling Chocolate and Black Labradors. How does it feel to be a new puppy parent? You must be chuffed. Take a look at these first few articles. All the ingredients you need for a happy home. But for now, beside your bed is the best place for your puppy to sleep — it will help them feel safe. Puppies like their crates rather cave-like; we suggest covering it with a blanket to block out light, but keep the front open so that they can see outwards. Make sure to make it snug inside with something like a vet bed or a blanket, or why not take it up a notch with a heat pad or hot water bottle to recreate the feeling of their mother. Nothing feels more comforting than that. Before you head to bed, take your puppy out for one last round of loo-going. Set your bedtime at a later time too — midnight sounds about right. Come back calmly, and place your puppy in the crate and turn out the light. Stuff you should know about Sleep Training your Labrador Your puppy will wake up several times in the night and will need the bathroom at least once! Be prepared for not-so-deep sleeps and tired mornings — just for the first few weeks. Having them sleep next to you is only temporary. Consistency is key! As for you, full nights of sleep will start getting closer and closer. Alone Training How can I teach my Labrador puppy to be ok on their own? Start by feeding your puppy in their crate during meal times. If they seem worried by you leaving, stay in view, and just pop right outside their confinement area. Keep it short and sweet: No need to stay away for long, 60 seconds tops will do for now. Repeat: Do this at least once a day to make progress go steady and smoothly. Socialization Exercises To Do this week Letting your Labrador puppy explore the yard Besides the gnomes and questionable yard furniture you may have, letting your puppy explore your own yard is a great and safe way to start showing them the sounds, lights and wonders of the outside world. Exploring different surfaces exercise Make sure that the surfaces you use are safe — nothing too crazy just yet. Gather surfaces such as An oven tray with a small layer of water A piece of astro turf A carpet tile A large piece of tin foil, cardboard or something crinkly PRO TIP: Set up for this exercise in the room your puppy spends most of their time in — it will help them to feel safe and confident. Pop the surfaces out safely on the floor and allow your puppy to investigate them. Nobody has ever enjoyed walking on those. Remember to be patient! Lucky for you — teaching them their name is easy peasy. Say their name in a happy jolly tone and reward with a treat. Repeat five times, 5 and take a break. Practice this 2 or 3 times a day so they get the hang of it. Teach your puppy to sit Teaching your puppy how to sit is a popular one. The first two are far more common though. Keep using this word when they do the right thing, and then follow it up with a food reward. In puppy logic, stinky means yummy. How to do it Start at home; where there are no distractions. Just make sure to shut off Gogglebox in the background. Recall — How to teach our Labrador puppy to come back when called Your puppy already knows their name at this point, so this should be a walk in the park. How to do it Treats and a cheerful voice will be what works here. Do these exercises before meal times so your puppy is more motivated. Practice this 5 times a day and in 3 different places in your house and yard to get them used to coming to you in all settings. How to do it Show your puppy that you have their favorite toy, and start to get them excited about it. When they show interest, throw it a little bit away from you. They will likely follow it and pick it up. If they do, encourage them back to you with your voice, so remember to sound happy! Swap the toy for a treat or another toy and do the process again. Repeat this about 5 times. Instead create more distance and excitement sounds to get them to come to you — spaniels like to show off, so they will likely want to parade what they have! Always swap the toy for something when they have it, this could be a treat or another toy. Resource guarding occurs when we force puppies to give up items or snatch things out of their mouths. For breeds like Labradors who are designed to want to hold things in their mouths, this is pretty important! Resource guarding is when a dog protects a resource from being taken by someone else — dog or human. For some reason, there is a solid list of things puppies find irresistible: Socks. Print Raising a retriever puppy like the pros Your Labrador puppy can seem small and fragile during those first few weeks home from the breeder. Labrador puppies will learn quickly about acceptable and unacceptable behavior those first few weeks, if you, the owner, are willing to set and enforce boundaries. Here is the training you should be working on with your week-old Labrador puppy. About this series of posts This is post three of a step-by-step training and socialization program for Labrador puppies. If you read our first post , you know that this series follows our training of Bubba, a female chocolate lab puppy. Bubba is already sold as one of our Custom Trained Retrievers, so it is our responsibility to raise and train her until she has progressed to the level of training the owner has requested. In this case, Bubba will be with us for almost a year and a half. Training and socialization for week-old Labrador puppy — week three home Your week-old puppy has been with your family for approximately 3 weeks now. This week you should start noticing some bigger changes with your puppy. Here are some of the changes I notice with Bubba. First, she is growing fast! Bubba is almost ready for a new collar already. I have loosened her current collar twice, and there is no more room to expand it. She is also learning a lot. Bubba is also becoming more personable. She likes and has more interest in people now and wants to be petted and scratched more often. Training equipment for Lab puppy We added a couple new training tools this week. But a thicker check cord will also work. We use this check cord for longer outside marks and assistant-marks which I will discuss more in a bit. Puppy sized canvas or light-weight plastic bumpers In week two, we introduced formal retrieving in a hallway in the house. In week three, we move outside with retrieving and introduce assistant throws, so it is helpful to have a few more bumpers. Puppy training that will continue Much of the training I have been working on for the past two weeks with Bubba will continue into this week and beyond. Dog training is not something that has a definitive end-date. For instance, you teach your puppy to SIT and then you must work and practice that command daily or weekly, often for months before the response to the command is solid. But even once the response is solid, you cannot completely stop training. If you stop training, even an older dog, the dog can lose the previous training. So, realize that you are never done working with your dog, especially on obedience training. Some areas that we will continue training Bubba on are: Crate training Bubba is doing great at crate training. She rarely makes any noise while in her crate and settles down quickly after being put into her crate. In the upcoming weeks, we will work towards getting Bubba to enter her crate on command. Looking for more information on crate training? Housebreaking Housebreaking Bubba is going well. We have caught her in a few accidents, but she already seems to understand that she is not supposed to go potty inside. This does not mean that she is done housebreaking. We still expect accidents and will for a few months, so we watch her carefully while she is running around in the house. We also praise her for behaviors like going to the door and tapping the door or whining at the door. These behaviors are rewarded with us taking her outside to go potty. When she goes potty outside, we praise her and then take her right back in. We want her to start understanding that these cue behaviors will get her out to go potty and that is all. Looking for more information on housebreaking? But we will also add a few new ones. We will use this while teaching our puppy the SIT command. It also will be used going forward, anytime we are done working on structured obedience work. We will release the dog from formal work with the OKAY command. But we also use it to mean go to a certain place, such as on a mat or stand. Or, when we want her to go into her crate or kennel. This is an associative command, meaning the puppy will learn the command through our repetition of the word as we tie it to a behavior. But over time, she will make the association and will perform it on her own. This is very important especially if you ever plan on doing more advanced training with your retriever. You will use whatever your dogs name is. A few commands that we will continue to work on this week We will continue to work on obedience commands this week and in the weeks to come. Each week we will expect a little more and better compliance and performance to the command. She is sitting when I put the leash and chain collar on her and when I am taking it off. This week we also added SIT before eating. We only make her SIT for a few seconds; we are working on control. She does not SIT on her own yet, but she will be doing that within a week or so I would guess. Right now, I grab her collar and say SIT. In week three, I have a slightly higher expectation. On walks, I make her walk right beside me for a minute or two using the HEEL command before releasing her and letting her run back and forth a bit. This tells me that she understands the command. Then release her. If every time your puppy comes to you, you put her away or take something away from her, soon your puppy will not want to come to you. You must work hard to make coming to you a good experience for your puppy. So, call her, praise her when she comes and release. Remember: Never use a HERE command if you are not in the position of being able to enforce the command. Make every effort to socialize your puppy You should continue to take steps to socialize your week-old puppy. Anything you can think of. The more things and situations you expose your puppy to, the better your puppy will be equipped to adjust and learn in the future. Learn more about socialization. Hand throws with a puppy bumper you are throwing out a bumper done outside will carry a lot more distraction than retrieves in a hallway. Just pick up the bumper and try again tomorrow. When retrieving outside, make sure you have a long foot rope attached to your puppy. Never try to do retrieves outside without a rope. You will have problems and encourage bad behaviors. You must have a way to get the puppy to come back to you, otherwise you should not be doing retrieves outside. Once your puppy is doing well retrieving outside, you are ready to introduce assistant marks. Introduction to assistant marks The most important thing we worked on with Bubba this week is assistant marks. Assistant marks are retrieves where someone else is throwing the bumper, not you. This teaches your puppy to watch out in the field for a mark. It is very rare that a duck will come from behind you, fly over your head and you shoot it. The ducks and pheasants will be falling in front of you, so the dog must learn to look out and watch for the mark. We start assistant marks on very short grass with white plugs so that the puppy can clearly see the item on the ground. We hold the puppy in a SIT position facing a thrower who is about 20 feet from you. When your puppy picks up the bumper, immediately start calling her back to you. Remember, you should have the foot check cord on her so you can pull the puppy in if needed. Then, take the bumper from her, throw it behind you, make your puppy sit facing the thrower again and repeat. Only do retrieves and then call it a day. Soon your puppy will learn this game and love it. They will start facing the thrower on their own and sitting and waiting for a mark. Final thoughts on training for your week-old Labrador puppy week-old puppies are so eager to learn, so be sure and take advantage of this enthusiasm to teach new concepts and enforce previous ones. Continue to teach your puppy to handle more and more pressure and correction while maintaining a good attitude. Lastly, assistant marks are a big deal. Once a dog learns this part of the game, you can work to increase the distance and complexity of the marks. If you are struggling or need additional help with your new puppy, you can email me ottertailkennels gmail. I would be happy to discuss your goals for your retriever and tell you about the programs I offer. Until next time, happy retrieving. You should take your puppy outdoors and let him exercise his socialization potential at a young age. Visiting friends and family is one way to go about it. You can also spot a dog park and carry him there. Remember that your pet is still learning to follow directions and walk with you. You cannot expect him to cover long distances. The best way to avoid this is to take them far enough from the house and ensure they have a positive outside experience. It is worth noting that you should do this as often as you can, preferably daily. Start Potty Training It would be best to start potty training your Lab puppy the first day you bring him home. Start by showing your pup where you want him to potty, such as a sectioned-off area of your yard or garden. A good idea is to cordon off a small area and add some bark chippings. Next, you need a potty training schedule such as first thing in the morning, after mealtimes and play, and hourly for young pups. Many owners use dog crates to help with house training. I have a step-by-step guide on Labrador puppy crate training where you can learn tons more. Discourage Biting If you follow my blog, you know I am against punishment-oriented training. If you train your dog young enough to avoid harsh bites, you will not need punishment-driven discipline strategies. In any case, using physical force or yelling at your pup will only instill fear and distrust and can cause aggression in your dog. You can also check out my article, How to Discipline a Labrador , for greater insight into this topic. Instead, you can wait until your Labrador bites during a positive activity and then discontinue it. It will anchor the consequence better. Follow up using positive reinforcement by rewarding the correct behavior with a treat. Your Labrador will quickly learn that displaying good behavior reaps nice things. Puppies need to learn their bite inhibition soft-mouth by continuing the excellent work their mother and siblings taught them. Learn Bite Inhibition Training! Instill Patience You must use your best judgment when training your dog to be patient. Generally speaking, your Labrador will be mature enough to learn self-control by the tenth week. You can use a clicker or a whistle to teach your puppy to assume the natural heel position. Chances are, at first, your Labrador will try to change his pace to be behind you because of the force of habit. Walking in areas familiar to your dog will eliminate this problem. While you previously trained him to assume a heel position, you can also teach him these techniques. You may notice that your puppy can tell your words apart by the thirteenth week. So by the time he is four months old, you can use the position cues and positive reinforcement to get your dog to follow. These included whistling, clapping, or saying a specific word to indicate that your Labrador is doing a good job, typically followed by a well-deserved treat. Now is the time to see whether the anchors work! Where you previously whistled when your Lab ran towards you, now you must whistle, so he begins his run. This is the start of his Labrador recall training. Teaching good recall is an ongoing process. My dog was around 12 months old before seeing a noticeable improvement in her recall. Please avoid forcing the dog, as that only introduces confusion. Build Comfort With Crowds — Work on Socialization You have trained your Labrador to acknowledge close friends and family in the past few weeks. While this enables the puppy to be more social when you have visitors, a grown dog must learn to walk outdoors without acting out. This transition must be gradual, and try to keep experiences positive. Whether it is a cuddle, a pat, attention, or something tasty, you must teach your pup target training , for example, to touch a target with a specific part of his body. Remember that your Lab may end up biting or clawing to communicate if you do not teach him more acceptable communication methods. Here, I recommend teaching your Labrador to touch your hand with his nose. Ultimately, this is an excellent replacement for bites! Hand targeting is fun to teach, helps your pup build trust, and gets him using his brain! You have laid a strong foundation of discipline and positive reinforcement, making it easier to train your dog to follow more complex commands. In these weeks, you will introduce him to assuming different positions, obeying your commands as he moves away from you, and reacting to more nuanced anchors. Remember, 4-month-old Labrador puppies have a short attention span, so avoid long training sessions. Teach the Sit and Stay Teaching your Lab to sit and stay is a useful command for him to learn. Train Your Dog to Fetch If you have taken your Labrador to public parks and he has seen other dogs play fetch, it will be easier to teach him to retrieve whatever you throw. Your Labrador may not bring the toy back to you for a second round, but he will soon get the idea of retrieving it. You can gradually turn it into a game of fetch over the next few weeks and reward your doggo with high-value training treats. Continue Potty Training In the fourth month of Labrador training, you will continue potty training with a degree of independence. Continue with a good schedule and sync your walks with his natural cycle to align with the times he needs to go. You can use it to control your Labrador and later to test his ability to execute a command off-leash. A harness is also a good idea and is used for outdoor training and walks. Many owners will opt for a rear-attaching harness. Related: Harness vs. Collar for Lab Puppy: Which is Best? How to Train a 5-Month-Old Lab Puppy A five-month-old Labrador puppy is ready to be tested for his general obedience and the ability to deal with distractions, whether other dogs, people, or other animals such as squirrels or birds. Earlier, I mentioned that you could not expect an eight-week-old puppy to delay gratification. Your puppy can deal with distractions at five months old if you introduce them slowly. You must be prepared for your dog to run ahead of you now! However, suppose you have developed a solid relationship with your pup and worked on his training. In that case, he will stay within a reasonable distance, remaining by your side and showing loyalty. Once your Lab puppy has reached his 6-month milestone, it also marks the point where you introduce him to advanced obedience training. The good news is that all the training you have previously given will make it easier for your dog to follow your lead. Conclude Potty Training Your dog has had months to learn how to communicate his need to go potty. He has also likely refined the patience to hold it instead of relieving himself on the floor. Therefore, you can communicate your disappointment with your body language if your dog makes a mess. Avoid physical punishment and even verbal chastising as it impacts your dog negatively. All dogs can still have the odd accident up to 12 months old. Moreover, you must be prepared for your dog to relieve himself indoors if he is excited or frightened, known as either excitement or submissive urination. Increase Exercise Now that your Lab puppy is six months old, you can increase his exercise to thirty minutes twice daily. Energy levels, especially for larger breed dogs, escalate during this time. While the average exercise for a pup before this is generally five minutes of exercise per month of age, twice a day, a six-month-old Labrador can be out for one hour if you split his walks into thirty minutes a day. To train your 6-month-old Lab puppy, start with two commands with the most practical use. From six months onwards, until your Labrador is a well-trained adult, you can teach the following commands or tricks in any order. How to Train a 7-Month-Old Labrador As your Lab progresses to seven months old, a lot of the previous training needs to be kept consistent as you gradually teach him to comprehend more commands. Maybe there is a trespasser, and you want your dog to scare them away. You will need to continue training your dog to hold things or release them on command, but you can also proceed to add distance and even more background distractions. Ironically, you need to teach him to bark on command before learning to be silent on cue. Over this month, he will learn to associate the respective commands with barking and silence. This is quite tricky, but your Lab will eventually get there if you practice and stay consistent. The eighth month is ideal for training your Lab to go to different places upon hearing the command word. Either way, do not overload him with place commands, and stick to no more than two per month. Or you can use the ninth month to teach a cool party trick! After a week, you can remove the treat and teach your Lab to follow your finger. Of course, you will still need to reward him after he follows the command. By the third week, you can cue your doggo to spin and see if he does so without your finger guiding him in a circular motion. It might take an extra week or two, but I recommend this as an addition in the ninth month because it allows you to continue training your pet to learn previous commands better. You can teach him to go to different places, hold or release objects, and fetch toys. You can now progress this further and teach him to roll over on command. Your 1-year-old Labrador only learns to comprehend more at the same pace as he has since the 6-month mark. You should also audit previously taught commands and see any weak associations you can reinforce. How to Train an Month-Old Labrador You will not have to alter your training regimen dramatically if you have trained your Labrador properly from eight weeks onward. If anything, this is the period where you customize his training to your convenience. Now is when your dog must learn to be compatible with your life. From the month mark onwards, you must train your dog to be harmonious with modern adult life within reason. It is sad to see dog owners having to give away their pets because of behavior issues. Such things are avoidable if you train your dog correctly and sufficiently exercise him. It would be best if you simply established authority by having a positive yet commanding presence. Once your dog acknowledges your authority and sees you as a guide, you can merely treat him as a six-month-old, albeit on an accelerated schedule, and train him accordingly. Your job becomes even easier once you have a workable training schedule and stick to your routine. This month-by-month Labrador puppy training schedule will help you successfully train your doggo and turn him into the beloved companion you always desired. Good luck with your training! Related Posts You May Like:. Tweet on Twitter How long does it take to train a dog? With regular practice and commitment, many dog owners are able to teach their dogs reliable basic manners in a year or so. Of course there are a great many variables which mean dog training can take longer. How long does it take to train a dog? But actually, how long does it take to train a dog is quite a reasonable thing to ask! Training a dog is a fairly big deal for most of us, especially the first time around. Unravelling the variables There are a few factors we need to take into account if we are going to come up with a fair estimate of the time involved. These include: the outcome you want the time you are willing to invest how skilled you are how old your dog is and the temperament of your dog. The perfect age to start some really structured training lessons. And a further four to five weeks getting started with basic proofing. By this time you are looking at a six to seven month old puppy with some good basic skills in not too challenging conditions. Of course, experienced trainers may get to this point sooner, and some of us may take a little longer. Job done? Not quite! This may take another three to six months. So a fully-trained, well-mannered pet dog by the time they hit their first birthday is a reasonable aim for some of us. But as you can see, I picked the simplest assumption or outcome in each of the five variables listed above. Your dog will be expected to understand cues such as the send away, and the stop. They may need to learn to hunt and to retrieve, and so on. And of course to resist enormous temptations such as fast moving live animals and birds, while working. In addition to which you need to consider that strenuous physical activities should not be undertaken by dogs that are not yet physically mature. Most experts for example advise that dogs should not be encouraged to jump until the growth plates in their joints have fully hardened. Which in all but the smallest breeds is not likely to be much before the end of the first year. The time you are willing to invest We all lead busy lives. Like many enthusiasts, I train up to five times a day, many days of the year. How skilled you are The skill of the trainer is inevitably a factor in the how long it takes to train. BUT it is by no means the most important factor. And you should never let your own lack of skill stop you training your own dog. But you should be fair on yourself, and allow yourself time to get to grips with the skills and techniques involved in modern dog training. Because the more skilled you are, the better off your dog will be, and the quicker they will learn. How old your dog is This is not about puppies learning faster or older dogs having more concentration. Almost every dog over six months old has learned that being naughty sometimes pays off. And that chasing animals, balls, people, or bicycles is worth the fallout when they are eventually caught. Lots of other dogs over six months old have learned that getting to a walk means dragging a human being on the end of a leash for quite some distance first, or that jumping up at toddlers or old folk gets them a lot of attention. Even angry attention is better than being ignored. So be patient with yourself and your dog if you are starting over. The temperament of your dog Some dogs are very relaxed. Nothing is too big of a deal. People are okay, but not especially exciting. Other dogs are greeted calmly and the day just passes in a pleasant haze of food, sleep, walk, sleep, more food, more sleep and a few cuddles. What bliss. These dogs usually belong to someone else. Your dog quite possibly either runs the length of the county to greet every passing stranger or gets into an anxious mess every time another dog passes by. Many dogs have challenging personalities. Lots of the most popular dogs win the world are sporting breeds which are often high energy and playful. Many others are herding breeds which can be prone to be shy or even nervous. Your dog is what he is, and you have to deal with it. But knowing that thousands of other pet parents are in the same boat can help. Reactive or over friendly dogs can take longer to train simply because everything for them IS a big deal. So there you have it. An owner who has a dog with no problems, and a bland temperament, will have an easier time than the you or I. And a person who is able to invest the time to train twice daily, starts with an unspoiled puppy, and has no aspirations to excel at a specific sport could have a very well trained dog at around a year old. The rest of us may have to wait a little longer! All of it. Because like life, the journey we embark on when setting out to train our dogs, is as important, possibly even more important, than the destination. Print Early obedience first step to better hunting dog Labrador puppies start out sweet and innocent. All you want to do is cuddle up with your pup and love them! And you should! But rest assured the innocence will not last. As your pup gains confidence and courage, they will begin to test you in many ways. That is why you must obedience train your Labrador puppy. Early obedience training is key to establishing borders and boundaries that will help your puppy grow, learn, and adjust with a good attitude. There is no shortcut to doing this, just use the name often when you talk to your puppy. Over time, the pup will start to respond to the name. Socialization, while not technically obedience training, is the single most important thing you can teach your puppy during the first few months of life. If you are not sure how to do this, refer to this post. Tools needed to obedience train Labrador puppy You will need a few tools to teach your puppy obedience. The products I recommend I believe are a good value or good investment for anyone working to train or maintain training on their retriever. When possible, I include links to the product. Some of these links may be Amazon or other affiliate links in which I am paid a small commission at no cost to you. All opinions and recommendations are my own. Collar — You should purchase a size appropriate collar for your new puppy. You may have to buy new ones as your dog grows, but it is important for your puppy to get used to wearing a collar early on. A simple nylon adjustable collar works great. Chain collar — If your puppy is more than a few months old, a chain or prong collar is extremely helpful in teaching obedience, but they must be used correctly. For more information on how to put a chain collar on your dog correctly refer to this video. A longer lead, called a check cord, is also useful for teaching HERE and retrieving. You can learn more about that here. Heeling stick optional — While optional, a heeling stick can be especially helpful in teaching basic obedience. Treats — Treats are good for teaching very young puppies. I use treats for pups under 12 weeks of age, but treats should be discontinued rather quickly. When to start basic puppy obedience training Obedience training can and should start within the first couple weeks of having your puppy home. Young puppies are ready and willing to learn and teaching obedience to a young puppy is much easier than teaching it to an older dog. How long should obedience sessions be? Most labs do not enjoy obedience training. For this reason, we aim to keep obedience sessions short, especially if your dog is under 4-months of age. Five to ten minutes of obedience a day can work wonders. Especially if you are consistent. Using rewards or praise to teach obedience Many people like to use treats or rewards for obedience training. And this can work, especially with very young dogs. But for hunting dogs, over the long-term treats can become a problem. We do not want our dogs, or the dogs we train to be obedient only because they are getting a food reward. We want them to be obedient because they understand their place in the family and respect the owners. To get these lasting results, we use praise words and petting and a reward that retrievers live for — retrieves! Well-timed praise is a particularly important part of dog training. A message that it is okay to ignore me the first 9 times! This simply means that after a few minutes of formal obedience training, we release the dog with an OKAY command and that means they can run around and be a dog. We then throw a bumper or plug a for the dog to retriever. We do this a few times with a lot of excitement and allow the dog to retrieve the bumper. For retriever breeds, this is often more effective than a food reward. Be careful that you are not letting your puppy get into bad habits with retrieving. For instance, if your puppy often goes out to retrieve the bumper but then runs away with it, or picks it up and drops it, do not continue doing retrieves. While retrieving is a reward for many Labs, it is not an excuse to engage in behaviors that are not going to be acceptable in the field. If you want to learn more about how to properly teach your Lab to retrieve, check out How can I teach my retriever puppy to fetch? Introduction to leash and nylon collar The very first step for any puppy obedience is to introduce your puppy to a regular collar and leash. This should be done in two separate steps, first the collar and then the leash. Introduce the collar by putting a nylon type collar on your puppy. This is normal and you should not react to it. Introducing the leash is a little different. We like to do this outside. After a few sessions of this introduction, you can start holding the leash by the end and walking with the puppy. When the puppy tries to run or walk away, hold tight to the leash, and just let the puppy get used to the resistance. Some puppies have a hard time with this and will growl or whine and whip themselves around at the pressure, but most will not. Remain calm and after a few sessions the puppy should get used to the resistance of the leash. Do not allow the puppy to pull you around. That will make for some bad behaviors that you will need to correct later. If you cannot control your puppy with just a regular collar and leash, you may need to move to a chain or prong collar to keep control. What commands to teach Lab puppy There are only four basic obedience commands that you need to teach your young puppy. Remember when it comes to commands, less is more. OKAY — this is a release command, basically tells your dog were done training, go be a dog. As your puppy grows and learns more, there are some other commands that may be needed, but for puppies I like to start with just the four above. Dog training requires consistency Before you start with obedience training, I want to make a note about the importance of consistency. Obedience training only works if you are consistent. This means that when you say a command, you expect the puppy to perform the command, and are willing to take steps to make the puppy perform the command. If you do not remain consistent in this expectation, you will confuse your dog and get poor results from your training. You and your family must be consistent! How to start obedience training Lab puppy The first command you want to start teaching your puppy is SIT. This is quite easy to teach with a small puppy but gets a little tougher as they get bigger. Then release the puppy with the OKAY command. Repeat this process several times, then stop. If your puppy is weeks old, you can repeat this training several times a day for only a couple minutes at a time. This will be a two-person job for a little while. The other person will put the food down a few feet from the puppy. Then release the puppy to eat saying OKAY. As the pup learns and understands the command better, you will no longer need a second person to hold the puppy. You must be a little careful here because young puppies do not have great bladder control and making them wait, even a few seconds, can mean the difference between an accident and them doing their business outside. But this is a great way to teach impulse control and manners to your puppy. I do not want to have to fight for a position by the door. You can usually start working on this within a week or two of teaching SIT. A great way to teach this command to young puppies is to use two people and sit in a long hallway, one at each end. Take turns calling your puppy with a HERE command. A toy or treat can often help the process. Let your puppy run around a bit but hold onto the end of the cord. Occasionally, call you puppy with a HERE command. It can be helpful at first to crouch down to encourage the puppy to run towards you. Then release the puppy with an OKAY command. Do this a few more times and repeat daily until the puppy is coming to you without you needing to pull the cord. It is also the command most of our clients struggle with the most. Mostly because they are using the wrong tool for the job. For heeling work, it is important that you work with a chain or prong collar. This will give you more control and stop the pulling and surging that many people struggle with. Using a chain or prong collar and a six-foot leash, start walking your puppy at your side. If your puppy is young, be sure to use a puppy chain collar which is smaller than chain collars for adult dogs. And make sure that you are putting it on correctly! An alternate tool to a chain collar and leash is the Wonder or Command Lead. These work great for teaching HEEL. As you start walking use gently tugs on the chain collar with the command HERE to keep your puppy at your side. If your puppy surges or pulls ahead, simply make a degree turn and start walking the other direction giving a sharp, upward tug on the chain collar and saying HEEL several times until the dog is back in a heeling position. Many of our clients have told us they never left their driveway the first few days! But if you are patient and consistent, your dog will quickly learn that if they want to go for a walk, they need to stay at your side. If you want to learn and progress in more obedience work, check out these obedience drills for retrievers. Final thoughts on how to teach your lab puppy obedience Teaching your puppy obedience may take a lot of patience, time and work, but it is such an important thing to do. You will never regret the time! A well-mannered dog is such a joy to be around both in the home and in the field. How to obedience train Labrador puppy. Image used with permission by copyright holder Are Lab puppies easy to train? The Labrador retriever got its start not in Labrador, but on the island of Newfoundland next door, part of the same Canadian province. Modern-day Labs owe their drive and work ethic to their ancestors, who were originally bred as working dogs in the s. With their dense double coats and innate love of water, Labs worked alongside fishermen , helping them retrieve their nets and swimming after escaped fish. Recommended Videos Intelligent, sociable, and eager to please, Labradors are the most popular dog in the United States. That being said, their intelligence can pose a problem if you spend a lot of time away from home. How long does it take to train a Lab puppy? You should also begin socializing your puppy as soon as you bring him home. Labs love people, but they can be boisterous. Teaching them how to socialize without getting too excited is paramount to having a well-trained pooch. Getting your puppy accustomed to being groomed at an early age also reduces anxiety. Fortunately, most Labs love water, so you might have a difficult time getting your pup out of the bath. Image used with permission by copyright holder How do you train a Lab puppy not to bite? Pun intended. So, what should you do if your puppy bites? Avoid rough play Playing the occasional game of tug-of-war is fine, but if your puppy equates roughness with playtime , he could develop a habit of nibbling at your fingers. Reward good behavior Instead of punishing your puppy, which could make him afraid of you, reward his good behavior instead. Give him a treat and praise him when he chews on his toys instead of household items. Image used with permission by copyright holder While training takes time and patience, there are a few rules that apply to all forms of training. Repetition is the best way for puppies to learn. Work in minute training sessions several times a day instead of trying to pack everything into one longer session. Be patient with your pup. Labs are intelligent dogs, but they need time to learn new skills. Editors' Recommendations.

All breeds of Labrador Retrievers are known for being kind and gentle — and this trait runs especially strong with the chocolate-colored sweeties. While these dogs are very friendly to strangers, they have even more affection to give to their beloved families. Your Chocolate Lab puppy or adult will be happiest spending time with their favorite people. If you have young children, a lab is a great fit, as this breed is usually quite tolerant of the horseplay of small children who are still learning how to interact with pets. Just like many people, Chocolate Labs enjoy both downtime — especially if it involves being pampered by their family — and active high-energy fun. We recommend daily exercise, which can include anything from fetch, to tag, or even frisbee games. The average Chocolate Lab lifespan is between 9 and 11 years. The most common Chocolate Lab health problem is hip dysplasia, which occurs more commonly in older and overweight dogs. This is just one of the reasons to make exercise a common part of your time with a Chocolate Lab puppy or fully grown adult. Another problem that occurs in overweight labs is joint and movement issues. The other most common Chocolate Lab health problems are: Progressive Retinal Atrophy Cataracts Elbow Dysplasia As is the case with any dog, when you bring home a Chocolate Labrador, make sure that you have a good vet to handle routing vaccinations and check-ups as well as emergency health problems. Learn more about the Keystone Puppies Health Guarantee! Chocolate Lab Coat Care In general, Chocolate Lab coat care is easy compared to many other dog breeds which require weekly or daily work. Labrador Retrievers all have double coats, which includes an under layer of short hairs and a slightly longer top layer. This coat is useful for repelling water and keeping them cool in warmer temperatures — and warm in cooler ones. Their coat is also noted to be slightly dry and oily. Chocolate Lab coat care is fairly minimal and considered low maintenance. The coat should be brushed with a firm bristle brush 2 — 3 times per month to minimize shedding. In addition to that, baths are needed fairly infrequently. What is more crucial is ensuring that their toenails are well cared for throughout the year. Meet Chocolate Lab Puppies for Sale. It quickly became clear that this new dog, at the time called the St. Then, in the 19th century, visiting Englishmen took note of these incredible dogs, brought them home to England, and soon perfected and standardized the breed—which had now been dubbed the Labrador Retriever. When they began as the St. While this is still true today, the recessive colors of yellow and chocolate have become more and more coveted by those seeking Labs as pets. Thanks to years of breeding efforts, those recessive colors are not as difficult to find as they once were. Chocolate Labrador Retriever Puppies for Sale Chocolate Labs are a favorite among those looking to add a member of the breed to their family. Coat shades can range from a warm, light brown to a deeper chocolate color. Both parents must carry and pass on the recessive chocolate color gene in order for a puppy to be born with this coat. Just like their black and yellow counterparts, chocolate Labrador Retrievers are known as doting and capable dogs. You can put them to work as hunting or service dogs, but they make excellent cuddle buddies as well. Their beautiful coats and breed stature make them great show dogs too. The chocolate lab puppies we breed for sale at Hidden Pond Labradors come with their first round of shots, one-year written health guarantee, and a veterinarian health certificate. We are dedicated to breeding our puppies for premier health and pedigree, as well as raising them in our home so their personalities and happiness can blossom. Experience the love, joy, and comfort this amazing breed has to offer with a chocolate Labrador Retriever puppy of your own from Hidden Pond Labradors. Give us a call at or message us online to inquire about our available and upcoming Lab puppies! Old chocolate Labs I have been writing about Labradors for many years now, and there is no doubt in my mind that they are all wonderful dogs. But the chocolate Labrador is special. Meet Rachael, my Beautiful Brown Lab All Labradors are beautiful, of course, but brown Labradors will always hold a special place in my heart. In fact, I am unashamedly biased! You see, I am lucky enough to share my life with Rachael. A female chocolate retriever from a mixture of American and English Lab lines. This is Rachael as a puppy. This page is a celebration of what is for me, one of the most beautiful dogs in the world. Rachael has been a huge source of inspiration for this website, so this is a little tribute to her and a thank you for all she has taught me. Where do Chocolate Labs come from? But they had been around for some years before that. The Labrador breed was developed mainly by a couple of English aristocrats in the s, from dogs they had imported from North America. Although our early Labrador Retrievers were predominantly black, some of these original dogs carried the genetic information required to produce chocolate puppies. Just as some also carried the information required to produce yellow puppies. If mainly black dogs were bred from, you may wonder how a brown puppy was ever born! To understand that, we need to take a peep at the genes that carry the code for coat color in the Labrador retriever. How is the Chocolate Color Inherited in Labradors? The instructions that tell your dog what to look like, and what color to be, come packed in genes. And genes come in pairs. This is true for the gene that determines whether or not the Labrador will be brown this gene is called b or black B. Every Labrador has either two genes for a black coat BB or two genes for a brown coat bb or one of each Bb. The color black in Labradors is dominant. That means that if a Labrador has one gene for the color brown, and one gene for the color black, the dog will be black. This is because his black gene switches off the brown one. The brown gene just sits hidden inside him doing nothing in particular, while the black gene takes control of his coat. What about Chocolate Labs? So for a chocolate Lab puppy to be born, he needs to have those two chocolate genes, one is not enough. However, a black Labrador can sneakily carry a brown gene Bb and pass it along to his children. This is how the color brown can and did remain hidden in generation after generation of black Labradors. Shedding chocolate Labs can appear paler as the undercoat shows through more when deep in shed. In old age their coat can also fade, especially around their face. Why were Chocolate Labs not Wanted? So if there were always brown genes in our Labrador population, there have always been occasional brown puppies. All that was required to produce some chocolate Labrador Retriever puppies was for someone to mate a black dog carrying brown Bb with another black dog carrying brown. And hey presto, some of this litter of puppies are brown! And of course in the days long before DNA tests,, there was no way of knowing for sure that a black dog was carrying brown, until he had made some brown puppies. By which time it was too late! It seems bizarre to us now, in a world where chocolate is such a popular color in dogs. But in the early s only black would do. When did Chocolate Labs become Popular? By the s and 30s a few brown or liver Labradors as they were then called were making an appearance on the shooting field. But for some years more, brown was not widely acceptable to Labrador enthusiasts. Chocolate Labs are loving dogs, full of warmth and enthusiasm That preference continues today, and we still often name our brown Labs after favorite snack bars and chocolate flavored drinks! The s was a turning point in the popularity of the chocolate Lab, but interest grew slowly at first. Gradually, the public began to demand more chocolate Lab puppies, and gradually breeders began to produce them. Over the next few decades, Chocolate Labradors became increasingly popular both in the show ring and as pets. In the shooting community, where Labradors were expected to do a job of work, the preference for black continued. This continued throughout the late s, and into the present day, particularly in the UK. American Chocolate Lab American chocolate Labradors were bred to work, and are also known as field Labradors. The chocolate Lab has now become more established in the working community, but they are harder to find. There is a rumour going around that this is because brown Labradors are a bit stupid! But is it true? You might also have noticed that chocolate Labs are rarely seen as seeing eye dogs. Chocolate Lab Characteristics Just like you and me, every dog is a product of both his environment. As well as the genes he is born with. We have seen that many chocolate Labradors come from show Labrador lines, and these bloodlines tend to have certain characteristics in common. Characteristics that are passed along from parent to puppy. Chocolate Lab size varies quite a bit. Show Labradors English are often more heavily built, and somewhat slower and physically less agile than their field bred counterparts. Some English brown Labs may reach 80 or 90lbs without being fat or overweight. Whereas American chocolate Labs are often lighter. My Rachael, for example, weighs less than 60lbs. Most males of her build will weigh five or ten pounds more. English chocolate Labs are also more likely to have a chunky Labrador head and thick otter tail. And while some feel that the chunkiness of the skull has been taken too far in show lines, there is no denying the beauty of a classic Labrador head. A brown Labrador is more likely to be from these show types of bloodline and are therefore more likely to share these general characteristics. But there is more. Chocolate Lab Temperament American Labs may have a more intense retrieve drive, or urge to chase and retrieve things than their show bred cousins. In short, they are desperate to please. Over many generations this biddable quality has been bred into our working Labs alongside their retrieving and hunting prowess. This has given working dogs a rather different temperament from our show stock. Chocolate Lab Intelligence In show dogs you may see a more robust temperament. An English chocolate Lab is often less concerned over the little ups and downs of life. Nothing is taken too seriously. Many English chocolate Lab owners report that their dogs are especially playful. And I have certainly found that to be the case with Rachael. She adores soft toys and spends hours playing with her Flat Squirrel! However, they may less distractible, more focused and therefore easier to train. This can certainly give the impression of a dog that is pretty smart. These dogs may also be more likely to be black. English Labs are still highly intelligent, highly trainable dogs. The differences between field and show might give you the edge in competition. They are also becoming increasingly irrelevant as we switch to more modern methods of training which are much better at motivating dogs to engage in the training process. We mentioned earlier that the color black has long been favoured by the working retriever community. Experienced, working gundog enthusiasts are less likely to buy a puppy that is not from working lines, and when they do, they are more likely to choose a black dog. Unsurprisingly this means that most working lines of Labs are predominantly black. Black is also a great color for a hunting companion. A yellow dog really stands out in the countryside, even in poor light, so even when yellow dogs became more common, they were not so popular with the hunter. Brown dogs are better camouflaged but became more numerous much later and were embraced first by the pet and show communities. Are Chocolate Labs Stupid? To my knowledge, no study has ever been carried out on the differing intellectual abilities of Labrador of different colors. Everything you hear is based on personal anecdotal stories, often passed along in fun. At least to begin with! She has very intense retrieve drive, but is less naturally keen to share the outcome with anyone. She is also easily distracted and because of this she has taken me a little longer to train than my working line Labs. But it is most unlikely that there is any distinct difference in intelligence between dogs of the same breed that happen to be a different color. Being chocolate does not make a dog stupid Even if there were a difference in learning ability between different colored dogs, it does not mean that one caused the other. The answer lies in the behavior and temperament of dogs from different bloodlines. Types of chocolate Labs The difference in trainability is in short a feature of the difference between the field bred dog and the show bred dog. Not a feature of the color of the dog. It is a coincidence that many chocolate Labradors are English in type, and many black Labs are American in type. Because of this coincidence the characteristics of the show bred Lab tend to be attributed to our brown friends. While the characteristics of the field bred Lab tend to be attributed to our black dogs. So you can see how the myth got started. The fact is, that chocolate Labs from working lines are just as easy to train as black Labs from working lines. But you are less likely to meet a chocolate Lab from working lines at the moment. But rest assured, your chocolate friend is not stupid. With modern training methods you can easily teach him to be a well behaved and obedient dog. Chocolate Labrador Shades Unlike our yellow Labradors — which come in a wide range of shades, the color chocolate is pretty consistent in puppyhood. Most chocolate Labs are quite similar in color. As the old hair dies it starts to lose some of its color, and the dead hair is much paler than the glossy new coat that will soon appear. And though some chocolate Labs are darker than others, even when taking the stage of moult into account, variations between individuals are fairly small, with one very contentious exception. The Silver Labrador. Silver Labs Are Chocolate Labs Silver Labradors have a gene which dilutes the color chocolate and makes it a pale, silvery shade. Some people find this very attractive, while others regard it as an abomination. There is no doubt that a hundred years ago, there was no coat dilution gene in our Labrador Retrievers. We know for sure that this gene has appeared quite recently. The strongest theory is that the gene arrived through cross breeding a Labrador with a dog that carries the dilute coat color gene. A breed such as the Weimaraner for example. This seems rather less likely. Not as silver itself. A bright Future for the Chocolate Lab Throughout history, there have been a number of famous black Labradors, and we tend to associate yellow Labs with the all important role of working as assistance dogs. This is not because chocolate Lab dogs lack the qualities or abilities of black and yellow dogs, but simply because the popularity of the color is a relatively recent phenomenon. There are as we speak, plenty of chocolate Labradors serving in the military, working as assistance dogs and in the shooting field. Maybe you have a story to tell about your own chocolate friend, or maybe you are just starting out on your journey to finding a chocolate Lab to share your life. We have some tips for searching in the right places. The other way, is to buy a chocolate Lab puppy and raise him yourself. There are pros and cons to both rescuing an older dog and raising your own puppy, I go into these in some detail in The Labrador Handbook. It may well depend on what stage of life your family is at and on how experienced you are with dogs in general, and with Labradors in particular. You can buy both books from Amazon by following links above. If rescuing appeals to you, and you are ready for the challenges and the many benefits of giving a dog a new lease of life, there are plenty of rescue societies that specialise in Labradors. Rescuing can be a wonderful and fulfilling way of bringing a lovely brown retriever into your life, so do consider it thoroughly. You can find lots more information here: Is a rescue Labrador right for you and here The right dog for you- Puppy or Rescue? If now is not the right time for you to rescue an older dog. Or if you are getting a Labrador for a special purpose — as a hunting companion for example — you may be better off with a new puppy. If someone wants to sell you a puppy much younger than that, alarm bells should be ringing. You also need to make sure you buy your puppy from the right place. This means choosing the right breeder. And avoiding puppy mills and pet stores. If you want a puppy for hunting, you need to go to a breeder that specialises in field-bred dogs. If you want to get involved in the world of showing, you need to go to a breeder that breeds Labradors for the show ring. It is possible to train a show dog for work, though he or she is unlikely to get far in high level field competitions. It is not normally possible to succeed in the show ring with a field bred dog. Keep this in mind. Chocolate Labrador Puppy Health Labradors of all colors suffer from inherited disorders. Please, please make sure your puppy is from health tested parents — it may all end in tears if you omit this important step. Their parents should have good hip scores, good elbow scores, clear eye tests and be PRA clear too. But does picking a chocolate Lab puppy set you off on the wrong foot in terms of health from the start? Are Chocolate Labs Unhealthy? In a study hit the headlines hard, and had a lot of chocolate Lab owners in a panic. Their research suggested that there is a link between Lab color and not just health, but lifespan too. Over 33, Labs were studies, with .Giving a good sample size. Chocolate Labs in the study were more likely to have dermatitis, which matches with some colloquial findings of owners of silver Labs with skin problems. Ear problems are also more common, and this is in fact something Rachael has even suffered with in the past. Gastrointestinal issues were more common with chocolate Labradors too. Chocolate Labradors live on average for just .At least according to this study. Interestingly, they were least likely to have degenerative joint disease or dental problems. It reduces the chances of your pup becoming ill. But it is also important to look at the coefficient of inbreeding. Chocolate Labs get their color from a recessive gene. This means that to ensure you have a litter of chocolate puppies you need to breed from two chocolate parents. Reducing gene pools will always increase health problems. Finding a puppy with a very low coefficient of inbreeding will help you to avoid some of these problems. In addition to health testing, of course. It would also be sensible to avoid a chocolate Lab puppy with parents with a history of ear or skin problems. You can find out more about health issues in Labradors in this article: Health screening for Labrador Diseases. And there is lots of information on finding a good breeder here: Labrador breeders — how to find a good one Training and Exercising your Chocolate Labrador My advice for training and exercising your chocolate Labrador is to figure out what type of lines your dog is from and adjust your expectations accordingly. Then to follow a good positive reinforcement training programme. Make sure you exercise his mind as well as his body. Even if you never intend to take him hunting, he still needs a job to do, retrieves to complete, toys to find, streams to cross and so on. If your dog is from show lines, he too needs training and plenty of exercise, but he may also need plenty of play. Toys and games, and other dogs to interact with. Training my Chocolate Lab Even at seven years old, Rachael still loves to play with other dogs and with people. She is hugely enthusiastic about meeting people and dogs and prone to be over-friendly. And I have to make a special effort to ensure that she is not allowed to interact with visitors until she is sitting calmly. On the plus side, I have had to spend less time socialising Rachael than I would with a field bred lab. As she takes everything in her stride. Too friendly! You may find she is intensely friendly and rather distractible, so this aspect of his education is important. Above all, treat your chocolate labrador like an individual. He is far more than just a product of his breeding and environment. He is a unique character, there will never be another quite like him Caring for an old Chocolate Lab As the years pass by, we leave behind one set of challenges and they are replaced by new ones. Failing eyesight, stiff joints, and declining hearing. However, these senior years can still be happy and fun filled for many dogs, especially if you keep your dog slim. If your chocolate friend is quite heavily built as many chocolates are, you need to be extra careful to keep an eye on his weight as he ages. More body weight means more stress and strain on joints, this can aggravate problems like arthritis in older dogs. I personally think that elderly chocolate Labradors are particularly beautiful, with their greying muzzles and kind eyes. Of course, you will want to make your old friend as comfortable as you can. Tell us what is so special about your chocolate Labrador and why you think they are the best. Life Span Did You Know? Labrador Retrievers are one of the most popular dog breeds. The Chocolate Labrador Retriever is not a distinct dog breed from other Labs, but it is a separate coat color variation that is specifically bred for. Similar to the other standard coat colors of Labrador Retrievers, Chocolate Labs are energetic dogs that get along well in a family setting. As a Retriever, they also make great hunting dogs and have also been known to fill other working dog roles including service dogs, guide dogs, search-and-rescue dogs, and more. They are even one of the common dog breeds employed in K-9 units. A point of interest is that all modern Chocolate Labrador Retrievers can be traced to three specific Black Labradors that lived during the s. Chocolate Labs are industrious little pups. They were bred for retrieval and will often sniff about for something to get into. They are also one of the most affectionate dog breeds and absolutely love being with their favorite humans. Properly socialized and well-trained, Labs are one of the kid-friendly dog breeds. They get along well with children, other dogs, and other pets. They are famously even-tempered and playful. This makes them fantastic dogs for a growing family, as they tend to be gentle and patient with little ones. They can have a high prey drive. They usually do well with small pets within the family that they have been raised with or socialized around, but likely will still have the urge to chase other animals while out and about. They also tend to be open and friendly with strangers. After all, strangers are just more people to give them attention and play with them. Chocolate Labrador Retrievers may be high-energy dogs, but they are also highly adaptable. They will thrive in homes with fenced yards where they can run freely. They can adapt well to apartment living as well as long as they get plenty of daily exercise, attention, and mental stimulation. Their natural urge to dig and bark when they are bored or agitated can be quelled with a little training and exercise. Although they can handle some alone time, Labs love to be with their families and thrive on attention from them, so they do not like to spend long periods of time alone. Chocolate Labs also have a water-resistant double coat that makes them well-suited for most habitable climates. As with most dogs, they are sensitive to heat. Although they can handle some cold and will likely love to play in the snow, they are not a snow dog breed and may need to bundle up while out on walks in areas with harsher winters. Potential health concerns to be aware of in a Chocolate Labrador Retriever can include hip dysplasia, elbow dysplasia , progressive retinal atrophy, cataracts, hereditary myopathy, and heart disease. There is also a condition with a genetic link called exercise-induced collapse EIC , which can occur in young adult Labradors. Carriers of this can be identified by DNA tests and it is advised that breeders test for this and avoid practices that would produce the disease. Good breeding practices make a big difference in the health of puppies and reputable breeders will screen their dogs to avoid passing preventable issues to puppies. Make sure you ask about the health and genetic history of both parents and about any health tests or clearances that have been done. As a large, deep-chested dog breed, Labrador Retrievers are at a higher risk for bloat. Bloat in dogs can be dangerous and can quickly become fatal if the stomach flips gastric torsion. Chocolate Labrador Retrievers are incredible companions and are also one of the best dog breeds for first-time owners. Their energy can make them a handful at times, but their intelligence, adaptability, patience with people, and eagerness to please make them easy to train. Labs are one of the smartest dog breeds , so they pick up on things easily. As long as training is consistent and focused on positive reward and praise, a Chocolate Lab will do their best to respond as expected and will often exceed expectations. Chocolate Labs have a short, water-resistant coat that will shed year-round. Brushing a few times a week, daily brushing during seasonal shedding, and the occasional bath are all that are needed to keep a Lab coat healthy and looking great. They may need baths more often if they are avid swimmers, go on a lot of outdoor adventures, and get dirty a lot. Floppy ears tend to trap dirt, moisture, and debris. Proper dental care for dogs is imperative to help prevent painful dental diseases like gum disease or tooth decay later in life. You can also supplement your dental care efforts with vet-approved dental hygiene chews. Labrador Retrievers are one of the most active dog breeds and need a lot of daily activity to be happy and healthy. Daily walks plus playtime, time to run, and other activities are usually enough, but your Chocolate Labrador will likely be up for more activity if you are. One of the facts about Labrador Retrievers is that they have an extended puppyhood and tend to maintain that puppy-like energy and maturity until they are years old. Swimming can be a great lower-impact activity and Labrador Retrievers are one of the dog breeds that tend to love water. Between that, their water-resistant coat, and webbed toes, you may have trouble getting your Chocolate Lab out of the water. Fully-grown Chocolate Labrador Retrievers usually stand inches tall and weigh pounds. Chocolate Labs generally live for years on average. Fourteen years later, the American Kennel Club did the same in .Featured Chocolate Labrador Retriever Article. We currently have puppies available now as our mothers have hade much larger litters than expected and we had more puppies than people on our waiting list. When searching for a Retriever Breeder in Ontario it never pays to gear your search toward finding a Labrador puppy quickly, rather, focus your efforts on finding a Chocolate Lab puppy of quality, bred by a breeder with a reputation who will stand behind the Labrador Retriever puppies they breed. Please visit our Facebook site by entering luckylabspuppies in the search box on Facebook, see the pictures of our Labrador puppies and hear what our owners have to say about our commitment to quality. Look for quality puppies for sale not quick puppies. A second thing to consider is that you will want your breeder of Labrador retrievers to provide you with support after your Labrador puppy goes home with you. Lucky Labs guarantees this lifelong commitment to support for you and your Lab and we are happy to do so. We have deep discounts to Labrador puppy training websites , many articles on our blog dealing with health, behavior and other aspects of owning a Labrador puppy. We are available for you after your puppy goes home either by email or a phone call. Our availability changes at times in regards to the color of Labrador puppy we have available. As well, there are times when we get so busy and focused on our pups that we may have beautiful ckc yellow black or purebred chocolate lab puppies for sale that are not listed here. So if we are the small scale family based registered breeder for you please send us an application for a puppy in order to get the most accurate and up to date information about what our availability is. Puppies for sale Our silver lab puppies for sale are actually a faded coat chocolate lab. When both parents carry the chocolate gene, and they both carry the dilute gene then the color is diluted to a silver. If you look close you will notice that the silver lab still had brown pigment around its eyes and mouth because officially it is a chocolate lab. Silver Labradors make excellent family dogs. The Labrador Retriever breed regardless of color has been the most popular breed for over 25 years and the Silver Lab is no different. We have some Silver Labs who will be mating in the future resulting in puppies for sale. If you are interested to get on the waiting please read toward the bottom of this page to see what colors we are accepting applications for. For more information about silver Labradors click here. There is 1 male and 1 female yellow Lab puppy available to reserve who go home Oct 7th. One of these yellows will go to an Ontario Police force and the sibling will be available. Please apply below for more information. There are 2 black males available to reserve from this litter. Please apply below. Haddie and Archie Haddie had her puppies. There is 1 chocolate female available to go home Sept .Reservations are available please apply below. Ginger and Hank Ginger had her puppies Aug 5th and they will go home Sept 30th. Available for reservation are 2 black females, and 1 chocolate female. Reservations are available please apply below Chanel and Archie Chanel had her puppies. This litter will go home Oct 7th, 1 yellow male, 2 yellow females, 1 chocolate male and 4 chocolate female puppies are available for reservation. Daisy Flowers and Gus One chocolate female puppy is available for reservation to go home Oct 8. Ruby Emma and Archie Ruby has 5 chocolate males available and 1 chocolate female available to go home Oct 18th. Interested in one of our chocolate lab puppies for sale? Click here and visit the Lab Puppy Quality page for further information and price. If you are ready to apply click the button below and send us an application for one of our puppies for sale. You may want to consider being a guardian of one of our dogs, if so, click here. We are accepting applications for chocolate, silver, and black lab puppies. For chocolates we have some mothers mated who will have puppies ready for homes Sept through December. Our availability changes daily as people reserve puppies and sometimes change their minds for a puppy later on, or a different sex or color. We are expecting one litter with a few yellow puppies who will be ready to go home in Oct. We will have black lab puppies that will be born in August and Sept, reservations are available. For silver litters our next silver puppies will be ready in winter of .We are accepting applications now for our silver waiting list and first born silver puppies will be offered to those on the waiting list in the order that their deposits are received. To reserve one of our silver puppies or to get onto our waiting list for winter silvers please apply below. The earlier you place your deposit the higher up on the list you are. To check the quality of our purebred dogs click here. If you have had a family talk, everyone is on board getting a puppy, and you are ready to take that step please apply here. If you want a puppy later this fall or winter we are accepting applications for those timings as well. If an adult lab is better suited for you view availability on this page. View our Labradors There are many pictures of our Labs on the pages of our website, please click through some of the pages to view them. There is a photo gallery of our dogs here. As well, once a litter is born and we reach your position on the waiting list we will email you a picture of the puppies and the parents for you to decide if you want to move into that litter and take one of the puppies, or, you can wait for the next litter. To see many many more pictures and videos of our dogs please scroll back through our Facebook page as it goes back to .Trained Chocolate Lab Puppies.

Winston demonstrates eagerness to please and loves to spend time training. Lee and family do such a great job socializing their pups that Winston acclimated to our household of 3 cats and a 6 year old labradoodle within hours! He is a very loving little guy and clearly had a great start at Berkshire Poodles! Could not have made a better choice in breed of dog and breeder. After only a little over 2 weeks she has blossomed into such a sweetheart. She has continued to amaze me with her intelligence. She was going in and out of crate after 3 days and now I have her actually jumping up at string of bells on door and barking to go out. She has not had an accident in the house in over 5 days. Thank you Lee, for such a wonderful companion. She walked on the leash pretty much like she had been doing it all her life! Got her home and she adapted so quickly! What an awesome pup! Lee and his wife were so kind and accommodating we couldn't ask for a better transition! Would recommend this breeder to anyone looking for a great poodle! They obviously love their dogs! Crystal Dewey We really had a good experience with Lee and his father in regards to picking out our puppy and having the information and local references we needed about her health and care. She was an adorable puppy and has turned into a well behaved loving member of the family. She's a beautiful dog too and gets compliments everywhere we go. Ginny Our Pally, now nine months old, is a delight in every way. She is smart, curious and very affectionate. She is never aggressive with anyone, human or canine; she just loves to be companionable and learn new things about the world. She has one weakness: socks. But if you keep your sock drawer closed, she is a practically perfect poodle. Get in touch. Berkshire Poodles. Questions about Poodle puppies for sale in Massachusetts? We have answers. Give me an overview of Poodle puppies for sale in Massachusetts. Miniature Poodle puppies for sale in Massachusetts price varies based on several things—size, coat color, and breeder experience, etc. Uptown will pair you with mini Poodle puppies for sale Massachusetts, as well as Massachusetts Poodles that fit your budget, too! Do your breeders arrange travel for Boston Poodles out of state? They sure do! Most of the companies and Massachusetts Poodle breeders in our network are really good at moving Massachusetts Poodles out of state and all over the country, and can send your Massachusetts Poodle puppies for sale by plane to a major airport near you. Because our network is expanding, there is a chance a Poodle breeder could be in the area! How do you screen miniature Poodle breeders in Boston? We make sure your puppy is healthy and well by having strict standards with regards to the place that they are born, how they are cared for, breeder experience, and much more. Why is Uptown Puppies different from other miniature Poodle breeders Boston? Although the internet makes it a cinch to locate puppies, it is also easy for dishonest breeders, as well as puppy mills to do a lot of damage. We have one mission—to help the honest miniature Poodle breeders Massachusetts, companies and businesses get found by people like you, and place a beautiful Poodle pup in your home. What is a puppy mill like for miniature Poodle Boston? Honest breeding centers do exist and are a wonderful place. Puppy mills are not ethical places. Countless sick puppies are born there. Puppy mill dogs, such as miniature Poodle Massachusetts, often have serious health as well as behavioral problems that cost owners thousands upon thousands more than properly raised dogs—and also pass away young. Are there any miniature Poodle puppies Boston for sale now? Are you interested in getting a Poodle or miniature Poodle puppies Massachusetts for sale? Well, you can start the process by searching below! What kind of dogs are mini Poodle puppies Boston? People debate over the origins of Poodles as they hail from either Germany or France. They are ever popular at pedigree dog shows - especially the large Standard Poodles as they look so elegant once they are trimmed and groomed. Mini Poodle puppies Massachusetts are skillful in a whole lot of dog sports. How do I know I can trust you with miniature Poodle puppies in Boston? Unfortunately, online puppy scams are as common as anything. Look at our reviews and recent miniature Poodle puppies in Massachusetts to see how great a choice Upwork is for you!

Your neighbors are complaining so you want to know how to control your German Shepherd from barking a lot. Read this article to learn about what causes this behavior, find out how to solve this problem and more information about barking. After that, we will learn about the causes of barking and the solutions to these problems. When does a German Shepherd puppy start barking? At 2 to 4 weeks old, you might notice your German shepherd puppy trying to vocalize by grunting or whining. When he reaches 4 months old , a German Shepherd puppy usually starts barking properly. Some GSDs may start barking earlier or later than 4 months due to temperament differences. How loud can a German Shepherd bark? Their bark is even effective in stopping a criminal dead on his tracks. The loudest bark by a GSD measured decibels. It exceeded the sound considered safe to human ears which is up to 85 decibels only. Do German Shepherds bark a lot? German Shepherds bark a lot to express their feelings and emotions. They may bark due to excitement but they will also bark due to boredom. However, GSDs are intelligent and highly trainable creatures. You can train them to control their barking. Owners who usually ignore their GSDs needs tend to bark a lot. He barks to alert you and to ward off a danger because he sees him as a threat. GSDs require enough physical and mental exercise so they can release their piled-up energy. They also need mental stimulation. GSDs who usually do this lack socialization and training. You can do it by first identifying the reason. Once you identified the reason, you can address the root of the problem. If your GSD stops barking, give him a treat. Repeat this until he learns to control his barking. When your dog starts to bark, ignore him. Repeat this process several times so your GSD can learn to become calm with strangers. Put your GSD on a leash and go to public places like parks. Expose him to the company of other dogs. If he remains calm, reward him with a treat. If he becomes aggressive, stop praising him and ignore him. Bark collars are not guaranteed to be effective. A dog muzzle is used to prevent your GSD from opening his mouth. It will also prevent him from panting which is helpful for temperature regulation. Your GSD will think you are barking just like him when you yell at him. It is expensive and painful. How do I teach a German Shepherd to bark on command? Teaching your GSD to bark on command is a good way to ward off any people or animals looking for trouble. Start by observing the situations that trigger the bark. For example, you notice that he barks whenever you give him a toy. To start training him, put a barrier between you and your GSD then offer him the toy playfully. He will naturally bark when that happens. Not only you, but also your neighbors will be happy. Peter My name is Peter and I am a dog lover. I have two German Shepherd dogs, one of which is called Biscuit because his coat is very light with brown patches. My wife and I moved from the UK to Ohio where we now live with our two daughters. We love squash on weekends and following the English Premier League closely! Previous Article. The GSD sometimes acts like a big kid and gets excited when expecting something will happen. Whenever they hear or see something familiar that leads to an uncomfortable situation, they will remember it and bark. Loneliness is a big problem with lots of dogs, especially with this German dog breed. If the pattern of you leaving your dog for several hours repeats every day, the dog will not respond well. This is a breed created to stand along with a human. They need a human touch. The GSD needs your presence constantly, and you should do as they wish. The GSD is a working dog, meaning he is used to spending half of the day outside, exercising, being active, and finding a vent for their accumulated energy. If you leave your German Shepherd alone without any activities for too long, he will get bored, and thus, start barking. Boredom leads to frustration, and frustration leads to destructive behavior. Invest in some puzzle toys. They make wonders and solve boredom in a blink of an eye! Yes, separation anxiety could strike even dominant dogs like the German Shepherd. A well-trained and socialized pooch is less likely to show signs of anxiety. However, many triggers could wake up this condition and make your dog feel anxious and afraid. Big changes, such as moving to a new home, getting an addition to your family, hearing loud noises, and witnessing fireworks are just some of the potential triggers. Pain could be a major reason why your GSD is barking. Long exposure to pain leads to more frustration. Make the dog sit and eat when you tell him to and this behavior will be corrected. German Shepherd puppies bark more than adult dogs. Probably, the biggest reason why the GSD barks is territorial protection. Barking is a natural and instinctive response to being provoked. Just like humans, dogs can get provoked by a situation or a person. Listen up! At first, the puppy bark is quite high-pitched and noisy. This tone gets a lot deeper as the aging progresses, and it becomes resonant and forceful. In puppyhood, they discover howling, which can be quite a problem at night. The resolution of this problem is the same as with barking: the right training and lots of it! How Loud Is the Bark? Yes, they are loud. And yes, they are intensive. No wonder the GSD is usually used on the force when he can stop a criminal momentarily. Human ears can take up to 85 decibels. Anything over that is painful. Just imagine how loud the loudest bark that one German Shepherd produced! An incredible decibels! Obedience Training: Top Tips for Training Your German Shepherd Dog The first step to completing obedience training successfully is identifying the cause of the barking. Those of you who own a puppy or a rescue with no vocalization issues do not have to start here. This step is a must for pups who already have barking issues. The root of it may lie in some of the aforementioned causes. Make sure you scroll up and check which one is possible. Furthermore, positive reinforcement is the next tip for an obedient puppy. Praise, pats, play, and treats beat punishment anytime! Punishment or negative reinforcement creates fear and results in misbehavior. Positive reinforcement is the only safe way, basically, the only way you should go. Of course, some aids could assist you with the training. For example, the clicker. This is a small, handheld device that produces clicking sounds that a dog can associate with certain things, such as praise, a reward, a pat, or something else. When the dog hears the click, he will know what to do to get the desirable reward. Finally, consistency is crucial. Dogs very well know when you begin to slack off in training. These dogs love to learn and are fast learners. If you maintain consistency, you will get results in the form of a well-trained GSD. Exercise your dog. Feeling bored or not challenged is one of the biggest reasons why dogs bark. He needs plenty of action. Every GSD requires daily exercise and mental stimulation. There are numerous ways you can tire your dog! Go on longer hikes. Let him go swimming in the lake! Try playing fetch, too! This would be a fun way for the two of you to bond, and the dog will get the much-needed exercise. These people often tend to walk more dogs at once, meaning there will be lots of opportunities to play with other dogs. Step number two to reduce the problem is get your dog to switch the focus on you. Your dog has to learn to look at you for guidance before he starts barking. This is the way that gives better results. Eventually, your GSD will connect the two dots and behave to get the yummy stuff! Anytime you manage to keep your dog from barking in a situation that could cause him to do so ex. Like I said before, positive reinforcement and a reward in the form of a belly rub do wonders! Every problem can be nipped in the bud. Start the socialization and the training early. This shuts down jealousy and territorial behavior before the dog hits adulthood. Dogs are much like kids. The same goes for pups! Do it once, twice, three, four… a hundred times and the dog will finally catch up. You will catch up, too! The professional will handle your dog better and will guarantee success in a short time. Training Disclaimer Growling, howling, and barking are absolutely natural. A proud German Shepherd owner would never consider using punishment as a training method. Putting on a bark collar or shock collar and hitting them should be forbidden by the law in every country. Negative reinforcement only brings fear and makes the dog less responsive. Like we said before, these are vocal dogs who are not ashamed to raise their voices. This is not the breed for you! Who would even want that?! Training German Shepherds to Bark on Command When you figure out what makes your dog go on, you can use it for something better: like training him to bark on command! Many dogs bark at the doorbell ringing or door knocking, so this could be the best example to use. Sit with your dog behind the front door. Say your marker word, ex. This will be his reward. You can even add a pat on the head or a belly rub if you want to. He will focus on food and forget about the barking. Repetition, repetition, repetition! This cycle should be done 10 to 20 times a day. You can even prolong the silence by stretching the marker word or delaying the treat. This previous step can be applied to many other situations. Command him to speak when someone walks on the sidewalk, when he sees another dog, or simply when something noticeable happens around you. Our dogs are our family members and we love all of them equally. Yeah, just like the GSD. This is just a way of expressing themselves. German Shepherd dogs are known to be vocal. Compared to other dogs, this breed will often let you know about their wants and needs. This dog breed is also energetic, driven, and the most adorable. The common age for German Shepherd dogs to start barking is when they reach months. However, this breed will start vocalizing in weeks. Given the biological structure of a German Shepherd dog, it is natural for its bark to be a lot louder than any other dog. It is always better to know why your German Shepherd dog is barking. Many reasons trigger your GSD. Below is a list of possible reasons that might help you understand your dog better. The dog believes that it is his job to keep the family safe. German Shepherd dogs get alarmed for the slightest sound, moving vehicles, or even for tiny creatures like squirrels or birds in the garden. They think all of these aforementioned are threats to his family members and himself. The first instinct is to chase the sounds away, resulting in the dog barking out loud! This undesirable behavior can be avoided by socializing your German Shepherd well. Excitement Dogs are generally cheerful animals. They do not know how to control their emotions. Sometimes the only way to express and let out the feeling of happiness is to bark. This type of behavior is seen mostly with German Shepherd puppies. They are excited to see you! You know how you scream and jump and hug when you see someone you like? Unnecessary barking can even be for a high-value treat or when they see a friendly dog. This can be done by training him with the help of some yummy treats; eventually, the German Shepherd will learn to control its emotions. German Shepherds are known to be dogs with high energy levels. When they feel lazy and laid back, barking comes to the rescue. Boredom can result due to lack of attention. A tiny pat on the dog and a little playtime in the garden is what your GSD needs. A playful and busy dog is always a happy dog. Feeling Lonely Be it a puppy or a full-grown adult German Shepherd; they feel lonely if they are left alone in your living room. This feeling of loneliness can go from being just sad to intense levels of separation anxiety. Taking your German Shepherd on a walk or socializing more can help this condition. Anger or Anxiety German Shepherd dogs are prone to anxiety. Anxiety coupled with the feeling of fear will make your GSD bark or even bite, for that matter. Making a German Shepherd angry will make him feel nervous. Annoyance is also a reason to make a dog angry. Repeating actions that they do not like or engaging in activities that your GSD gets triggered can cause them to be annoyed. Annoyance often results in a dog barking to express his feelings. Sometimes dogs do tend to bark or howl in a painful way to let the owner be aware of the pain they are going through. The nuisance barking can be due to an underlying health issue. This is often considered a common coping mechanism with any dog breed. Know Your German Shepherd Better — Body Language Guide Most dogs communicate by barking when they want to say something, but knowing their body language is an added point to understand your dog better. It is a sign of submission. The dog knows that you are the boss! Biting Teeth Or Snarling This is a sign of aggression against something. It could be a neighboring dog or a street dog, a cat, a stranger and the list goes on. Right after this, your German Shepherd will start barking nonstop. Knowing what is irritating and distracting him from that can stop unwanted barking. When your dog is in a playful mood, it is always wise to play with it or give a toy to him—not playing when he wants to can lead to a sad or lonely dog which would trigger excessive barking. If your GSDs tail is very high, it means that your dog is very excited, on alert, or even a sign of dominance. It especially shows that he is in charge of the house to other animals or dogs. With this tail position, GSDs often bark out loud. Tail hanging down means that he is relaxed and chilled. Nothing bothers him, so you know you should not aggravate him by annoying him. Tail raised and wagging fast; we all know what this means. This means they are very happy and excited to see someone or feel in a specific way. When your GSDs tail is stuck in between the legs, he feels scared—often coupled with a lot of barking. Fear can cause your GSD to feel very uncomfortable, so you might want to change this feeling for him before his barking worsens. If you see this body language from your dog, just know to give him some space. This is mostly to soothe itself to sleep, or your dog is just having a moment so let it enjoy the time. This is the star question of my article. I understand no matter how much you love your pet, the undesirable barking of the German Shepherd will most likely ruin your peace. There are many ways to overcome the German Shepherd barks. This involves a lot of patience and training. Obedience training must start at a young age. First things first, stop praising when your German Shepherds bark. They are obedient dogs. Chances of them listening to a simple no are high. If your barking German Shepherd stops barking, praise them with a high-value reward. The dog will know that not barking is a self-rewarding behavior. You could get the help of a clicker to train your dog. Clicker commands are easier to follow in dog training. How much training is required to train your dog will depend on each dog. Some German Shepherds are fast learners born with calm behavior, whereas some are born with notorious genes. Another easy way to stop barking behavior is to ignore the barking. The German Shepherd will eventually understand that barking does not do any good when you ignore the barks. They understand simple commands even when they are puppies. It is always better to use positive reinforcement training methods. Training sessions should start in the morning or evening, a more quiet and peaceful time. Find the root cause for the excess barking of your German Shepherd. It would help if you started by triggering his undesirable behaviors. When the dog starts barking, you should command it to stop barking. Once the dog stops the barking, make sure to give it a treat. The next step is desensitizing your dog to whatever triggered its barking. When you see your German Shepherd being sensitive to a particular thing, desensitizing it can stop or reduce the barking next time. Get your German Shepherd to get used to it very often. For example, suppose your dog is sensitive to moving cars. In that case, you can take him on walks and give daily exercises to familiarize your dog with moving cars. It is important to provide this mental stimulation at least every other day to effectively train your dog. Negative reinforcement methods are always discouraged because they inflict pain or suffering. Using shock collars or e-collars on your German Shepherd could make them more aggressive. Do not opt for surgical methods which involve removal of the larynx. It is sad to see dogs go through painful surgeries and be voiceless just because barking is a nuisance. How selfish! Muzzles are not advisable in training dogs. Dogs by nature are animals who need to bark. I mean it! Finally, stop punishing your German Shepherd just because it barks. The first step is to make sure that it is not a medical condition. If that problem is cleared next is to see if the GSD is feeling comfortable enough. If being uncomfortable is the reason, give it some time to familiarize itself. Sometimes aging can be a reason for your GSD to not bark. The level of barking differs from the type of personality. German Shepherds are naturally protective and may bark at night as a form of guarding their territory. This barking can be triggered by a variety of stimuli, such as cats, strangers, or other small animals. Yes, German Shepherds bark more than other breeds because of their strong instinct to guard and protect, as well as their natural inclination towards vocalization. It is recommended to start training a German Shepherd puppy at 8 weeks of age, as they are intelligent and able to learn basic commands easily. However, it is beneficial to start training from a young age, as puppies are able to pick up new skills quickly. No, it is never too late to train a German Shepherd Dog. With the right training techniques and plenty of patience and affection, German Shepherds are always receptive to learning new behaviors, regardless of prior training. To address excessive barking, pet owners should consult with a veterinarian or certified animal behaviorist to determine the cause of the behavior and create a behavior modification plan. German Shepherds typically bark the most when they are puppies and young adults, but can continue to bark throughout their lives if not properly trained. Final Thoughts German Shepherd barks are a problematic issue worldwide with all German Shepherd owners. Not only barking but GSD owners encounter other undesirable behaviors. Unsocialized dogs will take their time to stop excessive barking. In contrast, puppies trained from smaller days will pick up training methods proactively. Even though the German Shepherd barking problems are unbearable they are amazing watchdogs. When your dog stops barking unnecessarily and progresses through its barking problem, make sure to appreciate your GSD. With appreciation and so much love, you can bond better, which will ultimately result in living a stress-free loved life with your German Shepherd Dog! German Shepherds can be protective over their house and their family, so they want us to know when there is someone nearby that is a stranger. Barking because the doorbell rang Another common reason why dogs go crazy barking is because the doorbell rang. Dogs have learnt to associate the doorbell sound with someone sometimes a stranger being at the door. Thus, when the doorbell rings they immediately start barking to let us know someone is at our place. Funny story about my German Shepherd and the doorbell. One time we were taking a road trip to visit my mother, and there was a commercial on the radio that had a doorbell ringing. Allie immediately went to barking! Barking in excitement Another common reason dogs bark is because they are excited. This is why when their favorite person or doggy friend comes over, they go to barking like crazy because they know playtime is coming. Barking due to boredom German Shepherds can also bark because they are bored. That could include barking at everything they see outside or just barking to try and get you to notice them. A tired dog is a quiet dog! Barking to gain your attention Another reason German Shepherds bark is to gain our owners attention. Barking because they sense a threat GSDs will also bark if they sense something or someone that is threating. Dogs also have a good sense of judgment for bad situations and people with bad intentions, so sometimes they bark at times when you may not sure why because they sensed a threat from someone or something. Barking to get you to play or go outside German Shepherds are playful dogs. How to stop your German Shepherd from barking too much? One of the best ways to teach your dog how to control their barking is actually to train them how to speak on command. Once they have learned how to speak on command, you can also teach them the quiet command which will get them to stop barking on command. Check out my article on teaching your dog to speak and quiet to learn more. How to tell if your German Shepherd is barking aggressively? You can usually tell if your German Shepherd is barking aggressively, by the tone of their bark, their body language and the situation. The tone of an aggressive bark will typically be lower in key and your GSD will be more intently focused on the target they are barking at. Additionally, their body language will be stiff, the hair may stand up on their back scruff and they may even growl or show their teeth. Sometimes you can also tell if your GSD is a barking aggressively by the situation. Check out my article discussing whether German Shepherds are aggressive , you may be surprised to learn that aggression is often misinterpreted. Final Thoughts German Shepherds being a vocal breed can definitely bark more than other less vocal dog breeds. However, it is important to remember that barking, like whining , growling , and howling is just one of the ways German Shepherds communicate with the outside world. Depending on your living situation having a chatty dog breed is definitely one of the things you should consider before getting a German Shepherd. Also, remember that good training is the best way to quell barking that becomes too excessive. Does your German Shepherd bark a lot? Let me know in the comments! High-pitched, interspersed with whimpering and or whining Tail tucked under the body, crouched down When left alone or faced with an unfamiliar or frightening situation Boredom Monotonal repetitive barking Relaxed body language, often these dogs will be sitting down while they engage in a long barking session. The first period occurs between 8 to 11 weeks, and the second period typically starts at 6 months and gradually tapers off by the time the puppy is 14 months old. Puppies will often anxiously bark at strangers during the two fear periods. As the puppy transitions from puppyhood to adulthood, their barking will switch from anxious to more aggressive protective barking. Well-socialized, confident dogs are unlikely to engage in aggressive barking unless forced to defend themselves or their families. Naturally anxious dogs may never transition from nervous to protective barking and will continue to display anxiety-linked barking behavior. How To Stop Excessive Barking? Excessive barking is a nuisance that can drive you and your neighbors crazy! Many people resort to citronella sprays, shock collars, and other aversive training techniques in an attempt to stop their puppies from barking. Puppies bark for a reason , and it is essential to identify why your dog is barking to address the unwanted behavior successfully. Puppies may be disinclined to bark due to their personality or a genetic predisposition. Greyhounds, French Bulldogs, and Whippets, amongst others, are known to be relatively quiet dogs, although they are still capable of barking in the right circumstances. Other dogs, like the Basenji, are known as bark-less dogs. These dogs have been bred to produce a yodeling-like howl courtesy of their atypical larynx shapes. While these dogs are far from silent, they cannot create a typical short, sharp bark like other dogs. A puppy who has unexpectedly stopped barking may be sick with an underlying condition that makes them feel too unwell to engage in their normal happy barking. A sudden behavior change is always a cause for concern, and these puppies should be taken to the veterinarian for a thorough examination. As your puppy matures and gains confidence, its normal barking will resume. Conclusion A puppy will first start barking at approximately 2 to 3 weeks; however, the amount they bark depends on their personality and genetic predisposition. Peter My name is Peter and I am a dog lover. I have two German Shepherd dogs, one of which is called Biscuit because his coat is very light with brown patches. My wife and I moved from the UK to Ohio where we now live with our two daughters. We love squash on weekends and following the English Premier League closely! Previous Article. Puppies will grunt, whine, and make other little noises from about two weeks old. They only start to bark properly between weeks of age. Some pups bark early at about six weeks; by eight weeks, most puppies will absolutely find their voices. Puppies will make very little noise until their eyes open, for safety reasons. In the wild, they stay quiet to deter potential danger or predators from finding a helpless litter. Canine communication is surprisingly complex. Their individual temperament and the overall breed disposition also come into play. Some dog breeds are very quiet by nature, while others lean towards howling over barks. This can depend on the reasons the dog was bred to start with. As with all skills, barking needs to be learned and practiced. Why is Barking Important? Some owners are probably already thinking that having a barkless dog sounds amazing! However, barking is a primary communication method for dogs. Knowing your breed well can help a lot. Some pups will bark or huff in their sleep, too. Yes, dogs dream just like people! Make sure they are well-socialized and confident. Dogs are very clever at adapting to this disability, making it possible to miss it. If you have an uncontrolled pack that fusses at the drop of a hat, your puppy will learn to mimic this behavior. Having your puppy properly socialized and trained can go a long way to making sure they learn to bark with manners and appropriate cues. However, barking should always be acknowledged, even if not encouraged. Your pup could be barking to tell you they are stressed, tired, bored, want playtime, need to go potty or something else. Be calm, kind, and positive when teaching your pup new habits. Remember, the habitual barking will only get worse with time, so nipping the behavior in the bud through kindness, positive reinforcement of good behavior, and consistency is key. Scolding and failing to meet their basic needs will only make for a bad relationship between the two of you. Conclusion Barking is an intriguing part of how dogs communicate. While some dogs stay quiet their whole life, others use it at every opportunity. This is all part of them developing their own personality. With a lot of positive coaching that focuses on meeting their needs, you can help your little puppy grow into a happy, healthy dog who uses its voice appropriately. Usually — yes! Table of Contents Why are German Shepherds vocal? Many Shepherd dog breeds are known to be vocal because of their working background, and German Shepherds are no exception. They were originally bred to guard and herd livestock, both of which can require vocalization. What age do they start barking? German Shepherd puppies usually start making little whiny sounds at around 2 weeks old. This can progress to barking at around weeks of age. Their bark will start to sound more grown-up when they enter puberty at around months old. What sounds do German Shepherds make? Dogs make a lot of different noises, but they can all be categorized into barking, growling, whining, howling, sighing, and grunting or groaning — and they all have different meanings. Why do Sheps bark and growl? However, that is not necessarily the case. Of course, growling and barking can also signal aggression, but you should be able to tell whether or not a dog is on guard by looking at their body language. An aggressive German Shepherd will have a stiff, rigid body, a wide, fixed gaze, and possibly raised hackles. They may also wag their tail very slowly and show their teeth. Why do German Shepherds whine? All dogs whine; you may have seen a dog whining when reuniting with their owner after a long day or when they get separated. This is because whining usually indicates either excitement or anxiety. That said, it can also indicate that a dog is sad, scared, frustrated, in pain, or wants attention, depending on the context of their whining. Why do they howl? Not all dogs howl like wolves, but some love a good howl! They do it to announce their presence, get attention, and make contact with other dogs. Dogs also sometimes howl in response to high-pitched sounds like ambulance sirens, phones ringing, and certain musical instruments. Why does my Shep sigh? This is because, like humans, dogs sigh to convey both contentment and disappointment. Why does my German Shepherd grunt and groan? Like people, dogs mostly grunt and groan to communicate that they are annoyed or in pain. Different dogs have different personalities, and even if your dog is a typically excitable or noisy breed, they could just be naturally shy or reserved. Alternatively, if your German Shepherd is a rescue dog, it could be related to something in their past. How to make a German Shepherd bark To teach your German Shepherd to bark on command , you need to find something that naturally triggers a bark. Then, reward them. They will quickly make the association and learn the command. Then, ask a friend to come over and make sure your dog sees them coming. When they see the friend, say your command and reward them when they bark. Keep doing this until your Shep understands the association between barking and people entering your property. Should I train my German Shepherd to stop barking? What is excessive vocalization a sign of? Excessive vocalization can just mean that your dog likes to talk too much and needs a little extra training. Other signs of anxiety include pacing, panting, drooling, shaking, stomach upsets, and destructive behaviors. Common causes of anxiety include separation , under-stimulation, a big life change, illness, trauma, phobias, and illness or death in the family. Aggression is also seen more often in German Shepherds than in some other popular breeds. Aggression can result in excessive vocalization towards other dogs on walks and in the home when they pass by, as well as aggressive body language and fighting. How to stop excessive barking in German Shepherds If your German Shepherd barks too much during play, you can train them to quieten down by stopping the game whenever they start barking. This way, they learn that the fun stops when they start barking. Making sure your dog gets sufficient exercise, lots of social interaction, and plenty of mental stimulation with fun games and challenging toys will massively relieve their anxiety. Introduce positive associations with alone time with solo-play toys like treat dispensers. Anxiety with no obvious triggers that are to do with life changes can be relieved with lots of TLC and a stable daily routine. They use natural ingredients like CBD and lavender to effectively reduce anxiety in dogs. Start at home by inviting close friends, family, and their dogs over so that your dog can learn the rules in a safe environment. You should also try to interact with as many friendly dogs and people as possible on walks, especially for the first few years of their lives. Practice recall by calling your dog randomly throughout the day and rewarding them heavily for coming to you. This should increase their impulse to come when called and overtake the need to investigate other dogs or bark at passersby. In fact, any kind of obedience training is great for stomping out aggression, because it means your dog is more likely to listen to you should you need to get them away from another dog. You can reduce dog aggression by reinforcing that socializing is good. If there are any family dogs that your German Shepherd gets along with, arrange supervised playdates in a safe, controlled environment and reward your Shep for their positive interactions. When approaching an unknown dog on a walk, do not tense up. Your Shep will sense your anxiety and assume the dog is a threat, which could encourage their aggression. Instead, keep calm and keep moving. Take a toy to distract them if necessary, and then reward them with a treat every time they manage to walk past another dog without reacting aggressively. Instead, pull them away as gently as you can, move them on, use a firm tone of voice, and clear commands. It may be trauma-related. Try to avoid other dogs as much as possible and make as much space as you can between you and them when you need to pass by each other. Why has my German Shepherd stopped barking? If your German Shepherd is ordinarily noisy but has suddenly quietened down, they may have strained their vocal cords. Other reasons for dogs to stop barking as much include grief, recovering from surgery, and not feeling well. Dogs can lose their voices as they get older. Elderly dogs often have high-pitched or hoarse voices that are patchy or barely there. Certain illnesses can also cause changes in voice, including physical trauma to the throat from an injury or foreign body, bronchitis, laryngitis, laryngeal paralysis, infections, thyroid issues, autoimmune disorders, muscular disorders, and cancer. Starting out just training her own Border Collies, she gradually expanded to local classes and seminars, now she travels as far as Europe and teaches students all over the world on how to train their dogs in a positive, bonding, game-based way. She is known for her clear, step-by-step training that lets beginners and advanced dog trainers see lasting results very quickly.