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I prefer to break my treats into halves or fourths before a training session; I suggest finding the smallest size treat that will keep your Frenchie motivated! I like to keep my training sessions short and sweet. I believe more is less when it comes to dog training; minute sessions once or twice a day is the sweet spot in my opinion. If your training sessions are too long, your Frenchie is likely to lose motivation and not retain as much knowledge. Cut down on those portions! Breaking the treats into smaller pieces. Training at mealtimes Using mealtimes as training sessions. Tracking those calories Before your training session, measure out a specific amount of treats and calculate how many calories they are. When it comes time for your Frenchie to eat, simply take this into account and reduce portion sizes appropriately. Slow Down Eating 4. This fast eating is what causes most of their gassiness— and this bowl is sure to slow down their eating. It's made from BPA-free plastic non-toxic and has tons of different shapes, sizes, and colors to choose from. Known as an affectionate loyal dog, these dogs can often be found in the home of city- dwellers worldwide. They are also an incredibly intelligent breed and their alertness makes them an excellent watchdog, provided you train diligently with the best training treats. Because of their natural body built and nutritional needs, it is vital to provide your bulldog with a balanced diet. Since these pups love to run around and live a fun lifestyle, look for products that are high in protein and low in fat, like our Pawstruck Lamb Ears , to ensure your pups have all the energy and fuel they need without packing on any unwanted fluff. In addition, Frenchies are prone to obesity and skin allergies. Unfortunately, their sweet squashed face means they need smaller pieces that are easy to swallow, ideally with low calories per treat. In addition, keep an eye out for dog products that contain wheat and corn, which trigger an allergic reaction. Avoid overly processed foods and simple carbs which can cause excess inflammation in the joints and add to unwanted body fat. That's why we took the guesswork out of our product inventory and rounded up the best dog treats for French Bulldogs. You can rest assured that all of these make great choices for your precious pooch! That's why we offer auto delivery on most of our French Bulldog products: to help you save time while enjoying your favorite products. Just indicate how often you want us to deliver your products and we'll make sure they get there on time! We also are proud to offer a bulk discount on many of our dog products to help you save more on large orders. Buy in bulk and save! I've found the best prices on bully sticks and other all-natural chews at Pawstruck. The braided bully sticks are insane! The only thing we have to worry about is keeping our puppy from hoarding all the chews and making him share.I have to play referee to make sure he plays nice with his fur brother! Caused gas and sticky poop in some pets. They are grain-free, soy-free, and free from colors and preservatives. The treats are low in calories and contain ingredients that are healthy and nutritious. Here are some features to look for in good treats for Frenchies: Small Size and Tasty French Bulldogs tend to enjoy treats that are both flavorful and easily manageable due to their smaller size. Most Frenchies prefer soft and chewy treats, as they are easier to chew. Tasty options like chicken, beef, and sweet potatoes tend to be popular choices. Treats with a pleasant aroma can also capture their interest. Always prioritize high-quality, nutritious options that align with their dietary needs, and consider any potential allergies or sensitivities. Long-Lasting Since Frenchies are intelligent dogs, they like to stay occupied. You could choose long-lasting dog treats that your little fur baby can spend hours chewing. Such treats can come in handy when crate-training your Frenchie. For French Bulldog puppies, the best treats are those that are small, soft, and easy to chew. Look for treats with simple, natural ingredients like chicken, turkey, or sweet potatoes. It is important to choose training treats that are low in calories, as that is essential for them to stay healthy and avoid weight gain. Look for treats specifically made for puppies to support their growth and cognition. Always check the package for any ingredients your Frenchie pup might be allergic to. Remember — always give treats in moderation to keep your puppy healthy while it trains. Conclusion There are many great options when it comes to selecting dog treats for French bulldogs. They have a meaty, soft, and moist texture and are made with real meat and DHA. They are free from artificial flavors and colors and are affordably priced. These treats offer a healthy and low-calorie option for effective training sessions due to their small size and minimal caloric content. For you to accomplish your training goals, you need a healthy, high-value training treat that will make your life as a pup parent x easier. Keeping your pups attention is essential when training. These soft dog treats will get your pups attention and help maintain that much needed laser focus. At Pupford, we stand behind all our products. Made with only 3 simple ingredients or less. No fillers, junk, sugar, or other unhealthy ingredients. They're also perfect for the simple "atta boy" reward.

Though they may get into trouble at times, Pugs tend to be good-natured dogs. Pugs are usually not aggressive dogs. However, if your Pug is not properly socialized and trained, they can easily develop aggressive tendencies such as nipping, barking or growling due to their headstrong and stubborn temperaments. According to Hills Pet , Pugs are cheerful, laid back dogs and we tend agree with them. But despite their playful attitude, they can be serious dogs. My pug sun bathes outside for hours every day. Pug owner As easy-going as these dogs are, expect them to lounge around and nap for many hours throughout the day. In fact, Pugs are infamously known for their mischievous side. In addition, Pugs can be a little headstrong at times with the occasional stubborn streak. If you have already have a dog, cat or other animal, we have good news for you! Pugs get along great with other dogs. These dogs are all about devotion to the pack. However, there is a caveat. Without proper socialization, Pugs may be aggressive towards the unfamiliar. My pug hates other dogs but tolerates and protects her little Siberian Husky sister only. This may mean meeting on neutral grounds first, such as a dog park or even in the front yard. One thing to keep in mind is that you should never introduce the puppy to your dog while holding the pup in your arms. This can make them feel vulnerable. Instead, let them do their thing, such as sniffing, licking or whatever they decide to do to get to know each other. Can Pugs be Aggressive Towards Humans? Like with other animals, Pugs are not usually aggressive towards other people, including seniors and kids. However, some Pugs do show aggression towards kids by nipping their feet, lunging towards them or just barking at them. Even so, these behaviors are rarely malicious. But it really depends on how they were raised and socialized as a puppy. Planes flying overhead. Neighbors taking out the trash. As a result, there can be a lot of scary things in this world, at least to them. Although this may sound silly, it happens more often than you think. Ever hear of the small dog syndrome? Everyone else is a stranger and potentially a threat. Otis our pug got used to the baby and is now super protective. The possessive nature is not unique to Pugs. Many dogs of all kinds can develop this type of behavior. However, there are many other potential reasons why your dog may be acting out. Pugs are no exception. These signs can be snapping, growling or outright biting. Whether from a medical condition or not, pain can also elicit this type of unnatural behavior from your Pug. Many times the pain comes from injuries while playing too hard, as Pugs tend to do. Other times, pain or discomfort can come from tumors, arthritis, fractures or whatever internal injuries. Never give your Pug medication without the consent of your vet. A mistake most owners make is trying to take matters into their own hands. Please, leave it to the professionals. Not only can it happen with other dogs, but also with humans. Dogs that suffer from this internal desire to become the alpha of the pack can show aggression in the form of growling, biting, snapping and lunging. Of course, not all Pugs even want to be the alpha of the pack. In my 11 years of raising my pug with my other dogs, I have never had this problem with my pug. For example, this Pug owner describes her dominant Pug, saying: My pug thinks she is the alpha. She pulls pillows off the couch and uses them as her toys. She constantly stands at my top of the couch and looks out the window and barks. An owner told me that her female dog will hump her leg and toys all the time. This is a clear sign of a dog establishing dominance over the owner. The best way to combat this is for you to establish yourself as the clear-cut leader of the pack. There should be no struggle for the alpha spot. Food Aggression in Pugs Food aggression can vary quite a bit among individual dogs within a breed. And according to the AKC, Pugs are one of the 10 dog breeds that love to eat the most. But food aggression has three tiers to it: The dog can just growl, which is the first tier. The next level would be the dog snapping at a person or animal when they get too close. Of course, the final tier is biting. Fortunately, there are ways to deal with this. Still, she was protective of the snacks. Socializing the Pug One of, if not, the most important things you can do is to socialize your Pug. The best window of learning for a puppy starts around week 3 and closes sometime between week 16 and .Fortunately, there are many options for socializing a dog. The best and my recommended option is the dog park. If you have time, take your Pug to the dog park after work where there will be plenty of kids, adults and dogs. Dog parks are really the perfect place to socialize a dog. The Pug will be able to interact with all different breeds of dogs and the humans that take care of them! Having an obedient Pug means that you may be able to control aggressive behaviors better. Because Pugs are food-driven dogs, it can help a lot with obedience training since you already know what their main motivator is. However, I want to warn that Pugs are prone to obesity, especially with their lazy and relaxed temperaments. Do you own an aggressive Pug? What have you done that works? Let us know in the comments section below! Posts you may like:. Playing] October 27, by Susan Do you have a Pug puppy who is aggressive? You may be wondering why your puppy is so aggressive or if they are playing. Aggressive behaviors in puppies can be confusing, but there are ways to tell the difference. This article will teach you how to tell if your dog is playing or showing signs of aggression and what to do about it. If your Pug puppy is showing signs of aggression, it may have to do with the following: They have learned the aggressive behavior helps them get what they want. Have been punished incorrectly or too harshly. That said, every puppy or dog can be pushed into aggressive behavior depending on their circumstances, environment, upbringing, etc. Some people, especially first-time dog owners have a hard time differentiating play vs aggression. Playing Vs. Aggression Puppies in general are very active and hyper. They are constantly on the move and you can see them exploring their environment. Their goal is to learn more about everything around them, mostly through play. Puppies love to wrestle with each other or chase toys for fun because they enjoy moving fast while playing. They may even growl or nip at you when you try taking their toys away. Playful behavior in Pug puppies is different from aggressive behavior. Learned Behavior Pugs may learn to act aggressively by watching you act aggressively towards them or others, or you may discipline them with aggressive actions shouting, growling, pushing. A Pug owner needs to maintain an even temper and avoid using any sort of forceful or violent punishment so you do not teach your pup to act aggressively. Think of it as having a child. Punished too Harshly Punishing a puppy too harshly can cause aggression. This article will show you how to discipline your Pug puppy using positive reinforcement , which works best. You can avoid this by finding a way to spend more time with your pup. Pugs love being around their humans and too much neglect can cause behavioral problems. A puppy raised in a household with other animals is more likely to be well-adjusted than one who lives in an apartment or house where he or she is the only pet. A puppy that grows up with children that are not taught how to handle, play, or interact with a puppy can cause aggression. It will cause the puppy to become aggressive as a way to defend itself from the children. Lack of Socialization We hear about the importance of socializing our children with others their age. Doing so teaches them how to interact, behave, and play with others. Puppies, like our human children, need to be exposed to other canines so they can learn appropriate behavior. Puppies learn about aggression and playfulness by playing with other dogs. They will learn how they should behave in these situations by observing you as you react during these situations. Hormonal Changes Puppies experience a dramatic change in hormone levels at the time of puberty. Such as you see with teenagers in your home, these changes can lead to physical and behavioral problems. The hormonal change can cause aggression in both dogs and humans at this time. During adolescence, many dogs may bark more often, or show sudden signs of aggression. Aggressive Pug Puppy Warning Signs Now that you know what can cause aggression in any breed, how do you spot the signs early? After all, the sooner you spot the signs, the easier it will stop the behavior before it escalates. Early signs of aggression in puppies include being possessive over food and toys. Is your Pup protective over their food bowl? Does he or she growl, snarl, or snap at you when you walk by as they eat? Do they get mad or try to bite you when you reach for their bowl or pet them as they eat? Now that you know the signs, you may be asking how to deal with the aggressive behavior? Depending on the severity of the problem, you may want to consult with a professional dog trainer. Reinforcement training works best for aggressive dogs, especially, if you have rescued your dog from a bad living situation. Many online books and dog training courses will show you how to properly use treats to reward good behavior. Final Word Pugs are not known for being aggressive, but you should still be able to identify the difference between playful and aggressive behavior. After all, any dog regardless of breed can develop signs of aggression. Like children, need stability and discipline in their life. The best way of teaching your Pug puppy how to behave is through positive reinforcement training methods that avoid punishment. This will ensure you teach them what you want without making it worse by adding on extra aggression problems. You probably have an aggressive pug. Again, it completely depends on the circumstance. But this is possible from any dog, not just pugs. If they were brought up in a loving, safe environment and frequently socialized with other dogs, other kinds of pets, and humans of all ages, they are more likely to be a laid-back, well-mannered adult. If they never spent time around humans or other dogs, they might grow up to be suspicious, fearful, or — you guessed it — aggressive with other animals and people. Your pug is no different. Food aggression and resource guarding are relatively common among our canine friends. If your pug had to closely guard their food in the past, perhaps in a kennel or shelter situation, they may be wary of other pets or human family members trying to steal their food now. Fear Response Just like humans, a dog that was exposed to trauma in the past can experience behavior problems because of it, even years later. If your dog was abused in the past, it could lead to aggression in the present. This is especially common in rescue dogs who have come from traumatic backgrounds. Socialization Socializing your pup properly — ideally from puppyhood — is the best way to prevent aggressive behavior. Raise your dog in a comfortable, calm, safe environment. Interact with them frequently, touching and handling them on a daily basis. If you can, expose your dog to all sorts of people — men and women, young children and older folks — as well as other animals if you can do so safely. Just make sure to keep your dog on-leash and watch them closely. Obedience Training Of course, you might adopt a pug well after the puppyhood stage. It just takes proper training. Obedience training involves training your dog to respond to basic commands like sit, stay, come, and heel. There is also leash training and other areas of obedience training that may be helpful. One key technique in obedience training is positive reinforcement, in which you reward good behaviors in order to discourage bad ones. This might involve giving your pug a treat when they behave well around other dogs or children, for example. Dogs with severe cases of PTSD, or those who display food aggression to the point of biting other animals or humans, will need the help of a professional animal behaviorist or expert dog trainer. Anything from an infection to a physical injury could be causing pain and discomfort, resulting in aggression. So, Are Pugs Aggressive? Are pugs aggressive? No, not any more than other dog breed. It has much more to do with the individual dog than it does with the breed. Proper socialization — ideally from a young age — and obedience training are the primary ways to deal with an aggressive pug. You can go at it alone or seek the help of a professional dog trainer. Read more. How to prevent Pugs behaving aggressively Pugs are an ancient toy breed — they have graced the laps of rulers and aristocrats for hundreds of years. They are popular for their loyal and affectionate disposition, and human-like facial expressions. But unfortunately, the demand for dogs with increasingly flat faces has created enormous problems with brachycephalic diseases in the Pug breed. The steep cost of treating these problems often leads to Pugs being surrendered at dog shelters. Once there, they may have difficulty being rehomed. Partly due to needing ongoing medical care, and partly due to adopter anxiety about the risk of aggression in dogs with unknown histories. So what are the odds of a Pug behaving aggressively? What Makes Pugs Aggressive? All dogs are capable of acting aggressively. Their wild ancestors would have relied on it in order to survive. There are a few risk factors which are known to make some dogs more likely to behave aggressively than others. Several studies have reported that male dogs across many breeds are more likely to use aggression than female dogs. This is likely to be because male dogs are programmed to roam more widely in search of mates, and thus encounter more threats. Older dogs are also more likely to reach aggressively than younger dogs. This can be a result of pain due to health problems linked to old age. Or due to panic and confusion caused by cognitive degeneration dementia. Lack of general obedience training, and using punishment for aggressive behavior also increases the likelihood of dogs behaving aggressively. But more than anything, aggression in dogs is a learned response to threatening experiences in their past. Which means Pugs are more likely to react aggressively towards very specific triggers, rather than towards everything generally. Aggression between Pugs who live together is uncommon, but it has been documented. Lots of dogs become reactive towards other dogs if they have an unpleasant experience which creates a fear response in them next time. This kind of reactivity is sometimes very particular, and directed only at other dogs of the same breed, shape or color. Specificity means aggression towards other dogs is not a good predictor of aggression towards people. Or vice versa. Pugs can also form aggressive relationships with other dogs they live with. The most common type of aggression between cohabiting dogs is possessive aggression resource guarding. When this happens, it is usually the newest member of the household, or the younger dog of a pair who acts aggressively towards the other. Are Pugs Aggressive To Strangers? All dogs are more likely to behave aggressively towards strangers than people they already know. Smaller dogs, including Pugs, are also more likely to display stranger-directed aggressiveness than larger breeds. But good socialisation before 12 weeks old reduces the probability of Pugs being aggressive towards strangers. Puppy classes are a good way to achieve this, and there is an observable decrease in aggression towards strangers among dogs who attend them. Socialisation works by creating a positive association with meeting new people for your dog. Dogs who are confident that meeting a new person is going to be a happy and rewarding experience are less likely to react with fearful aggression. Pugs are famous for being sweet and affectionate to their human families. They can learn to react aggressively if their family use physical punishments on them though. Surprisingly, one study found that dogs generally, not just Pugs who attended obedience classes were also more likely to be aggressive towards their family. Additionally, rescue dogs are also more likely to be aggressive towards their families. This could be due to their new family unwittingly triggering fear responses which were created before they came home. An experienced behaviorist can help pinpoint the reasons for family-directed aggression, and plan a strategy for overcoming it. Are Pugs Safe With Children? Dogs which bite children often have an underlying health condition causing them pain, or an anxiety disorder. All dogs should always be supervised with all children. No matter how peaceful, trustworthy or reliable you think either one might be. How To Stop A Pug From Biting Aggression in Pugs is usually a learned response to past experiences — typically upsetting ones which make Pugs fearful next time, and like they need to defend themselves. These steps will help prevent aggressive behavior in Pugs: Socialize them widely as puppies. Start obedience training from puppyhood. Use positive reinforcement techniques — punishing aggression will make it worse! Introduce new dogs to the household in a careful and controlled fashion. With one exception — this study found that male dogs neutered or spayed between 7 and 12 months old are significantly more likely to behave aggressively to strangers. Puppy biting A quick note on Pug puppy biting. Many puppies go through a relentless biting stage. During this period, it can often feel like the biting is so bad, that there must be something wrong with your puppy. Maybe they have a built in character flaw which is going to make them aggressive for their whole life? Are Pugs Aggressive? So there you have it. Pugs are not typically considered an aggressive breed, but they are capable of aggression. Usually they will only react aggressively to specific triggers, and behaving aggressively in one situation is not a reliable predictor of aggression in other situations. Fortunately there are lots of things Pug parents can do to prevent aggressive behavior altogether. Pugs come primarily in three colors : silver, black, and apricot-fawn. They have a big round head with large sparkling eyes and are considered an ideal house dog. The Pug has always been popular among the aristocrats over the centuries. Pug Behavior Pugs tend to be loving, charming, and mild with an even temper. Because of these attributes, Pugs are perfect contenders for house and family dogs. They are easy-going with children, mildly sensitive, and relatively friendly to strangers. Sometimes they can be stubborn and slightly tricky to train. Are Pugs Aggressive? A Pug is a perfect family dog due to its personality and temperament. Generally, Pugs are not aggressive. But when not socialized effectively when young, they can be stubborn. Coming across an aggressive Pug is an infrequent occurrence since they take to food-based training easily and socialize fast, especially at a young age. What are the Causes of Aggression in Pugs? Several factors can contribute to aggressive behavior in Pugs, including lack of attention, being left alone for long periods, and neglect from its caregivers. Aggressive Pugs exhibit this trait through being bossy, barking, dominance, rushing, and pecking. Such aggression can be heredity, where parents pass these attributes to their litter. Other aggression causes include ill-treatment, and shouting, more so from handlers. Regardless, you can correct this concern through adequate training and socialization of the Pug when young. Having an aggressive Pug can be problematic, and as the owner, you need to curb this behavior to ensure the dog is friendly, gentle, and family-oriented. Training is necessary when your Pug is young since, at this time, pups are relatively easier to train as compared to older dogs. The training window is typically best at 3 to 16 weeks, but ideally before the 20th week. We recommend enrolling in a puppy training course, such as Pupford Academy , so you can be guided by experts. Training mostly involves behavioral training and socialization with the involvement of both humans and other dogs. These activities teach guide your Pug on how to perceive the world around them and how to respond to it. Socialization can be as simple as taking your Pug out for a walk, generally in a place with both dogs and humans such as a park. Behavioral training involves obedience training, where you teach your Pug basic commands. Training is the best way to prevent aggression. Pug puppies, just like most puppies, tend to be hyperactive. So, what contributes to this hyperactive Pug behavior? Among the leading factors include curiosity, separation anxiety, excitement and playfulness. Hyperactive pugs are likely to demolish things, bark for attention, bite and nip, chase things, and get little sleep. Hyperactive Pugs can be stressful for the owner because they demand attention all the time. But as your Pug puppy comes of age, it calms down. This change usually happens at around one and a half to two years. Occasionally, they will have these sudden bursts just like other dog breeds. These zoomies will only manifest when you expose your Pug to specific triggers such as bath time, which may call for restraining. Are Pugs Emotional? Pugs are emotional creatures. They have an affectionate side and a serious side. This trait is due to the secretion of a hormone called oxytocin, also present in humans, that makes them feel caring and loving to others. These basic emotions will include, joy, love, fear, disgust, and anger. Even so, they can also get depressed and anxious, especially when you leave them on their own for relatively long periods. Do Pugs Have Behavioral Problems? Though most Pugs are typically loyal, obedient, and disciplined, some may have behavioral problems depending on their personality. Common behavioral issues include barking, growling, nipping, whining, dominance, separation anxiety, and stubbornness. These issues differ with different Pugs, and not all Pug owners will encounter them. Final verdict Pugs are great family dogs, and with proper training can be emotional supporters. They are loving, loyal, emotional, and playful, great with children and easy to groom. Because of these attributes, Pugs are an ideal choice for many people. August 15, Fact Checked When looking to add a dog to your family, one of the first factors you must take into consideration is which breed best fits your lifestyle, personality, and interests. Each dog breed has breed specific characteristics that govern their overall temperament, needs, and potential health issues. With this in mind, each dog has their own unique personality and temperament within the overall breed and finding the right fit for you will leave you with a dog that brings you joy and lightens your life If you are considering a Pug as the right breed for you, you may be asking yourself, are Pugs aggressive? Pug aggression can arise and may be brought on by a variety of external variables, and knowing the inner workings of potential Pug aggression will help you make an educated choice about whether or not a Pug is the right furry friend for you. Pug Temperament When analyzing whether or not Pugs can be aggressive, it is important to establish a baseline of typical Pug traits and characteristics. Pugs are known for being extremely loyal and loving to their owners, and possess a silly streak that has earned them a reputation for being the clowns of the canine world. Pugs are often intelligent, which can lead to them being mischievous and headstrong when attempting to train them. Pugs are small in stature and were originally bred to be a lap dog, which results in many Pugs being very affectionate with their owners and wanting to be as close to them as possible. Aggression in Pugs Though Pugs can be very friendly and loving, they can become aggressive when not properly socialized. Aggression in Pugs is often manifested in barking, lunging, nipping, or growling. Pugs may be trying to establish dominance within a space that they feel is their territory through this behavior. Often, aggression in Pugs is also the result of a fear response. When a Pug is not properly socialized with other dogs , people, children, and noises, Pugs will react adversely when it comes into contact with these people, animals, or sounds due to their own anxiety and fear. Pugs may also only exhibit aggression within a certain context, known as a trigger, which is a unique situation that brings out a certain behavior in the Pug. Triggers vary widely between dogs depending on the breed, individual personality, and socialization as a puppy. Pugs may also demonstrate aggressive behavior in response to being left alone in an attempt to make their unhappiness known. Causes of Aggression in Pugs The causes of aggression in Pugs can vary greatly between dogs due to their genetics, socialization, training, and environment. If a Pug has one parent that is aggressive in nature, that may be passed down and may be a reaction exhibited by the puppy as well. In addition, if a puppy grows up around a parent that frequently shows aggressive behavior, they will begin to mimic this behavior as they become an adult. Another frequent cause of aggression in Pugs is a lack of proper training and socialization. Having a dog is a tremendous commitment and requires an owner willing to dedicate the time and resources necessary to show their dog the world and teach them how to properly respond to it. In addition, Pugs that have been abused or frequently exposed to high-stress, traumatic situations may also develop aggressive behaviors. Another possible cause of aggression in Pugs is a negative developmental experience that has left a lasting impression. One example is if a Pug puppy is introduced to another dog that tries to bite your dog or is overly rough with him, then your pup may respond negatively in the future when meeting a different dog because it remembers his prior negative experience and has developed a fear response. Preventing Aggression in Pugs Though Pugs can develop aggressive behaviors, they do not always exhibit aggression and innate aggressive behaviors can be remedied through training and dedication. One of the most important things you can do to help prevent aggression in your Pug is to properly train and socialize him for the entirety of his life. As owners, you teach your dog how to see and respond to the world around them. It is important to put your Pug in a variety of situations with different people, dogs, children, sounds, objects, so that if any aggressive behavior arises, you can correct it and teach your dog to respond differently in the future. Pugs are sweet. Many call them their babies. Phrases like aggressive Pugs or Pug fighting seems like oxymoron. Pugs are so friendly, and the most lovable, easy-going dog on the planet, the idea of them fighting or being aggressive just seems absurd! Pugs do fight more than we want to admit. Fortunately, underneath that bad behavior is still a sweet Pug baby. So, the success rate of getting them to stop them fighting is high. And they will go back to being your sweet, lovable Pugs as were meant to be. Pug puppies and even Pug dogs can get pretty rough and tumble. Some say Pug puppies can be aggressive. When they are very, very young, they spend most of the time that they are awake, wrestling with their littermates. Playing like this at a young age is a good thing, and part of their social development. Mom and their littermates teach them to not to be aggressive Pugs. Front end down and back end up in the air. Sometimes your Pug baby will slap her front legs on the floor repeatedly. There are no winners or losers. One minute Mimi is chasing Lulu, and the next minute, Lulu has turned around and is after Mimi. They are not being aggressive Pugs. The larger or stronger dog may self-handicap. He may put himself at a disadvantage like lying down, rolling over, or letting the Pug puppy walk on him. Play-growling can sound very serious. Growling is loud and exaggerated, but not aggressive. Their mouths may be wide open while attempting to growl, but no one is clamping down on the other one. This is not aggressive Pug behavior. They keep going back for more. They have a wide-open mouth and a big goofy grin. There is no bouncing; no taking turns, just one Pug going in to make the strike. The hackles stand up on her back. Her body is stiff. Has your Pug ever turned into pure muscle? She may be on the verge of becoming an aggressive Pug. There are no big funny smiles or bouncing up and down. One Pug dog has disengaged and trying to get away from the other. Pugs with flat back ears and curled lips tell you they are not playing. They are being aggressive Pugs. Why You May have an Aggressive Pug Lack of Socialization and Training Although socialization and training are two entirely different things, I believe they go hand in hand or paw in paw. Socializing your Pug or Pug puppy dog at the dog park may or may not be the best thing for her. It is best to socialize your Pug in a dog training class. Generally speaking, everyone has their entire focus on their dogs. The dogs are well-behaved or at least kept in check until they become well-behaved. There is no room for aggressive Pugs in dog training classes. It is best to talk to some dog trainers to see if they incorporate proper socialization into their lessons, such as owners taking turns walking up to other owners while both dogs remain on leash. It is a good way for all dogs to get close to each other while respecting boundaries. Taking your Pug dog or puppy to the dog park has a lot of variables that you cannot control. If your Pug dog is the lone Pug at home and never been around other dogs, it may be overwhelming for him to go to the dog park on a busy Saturday. Bullying at the Dog Park Bullying can take place, and other owners may not understand how traumatizing it can be for a small Pug. The first time I took Mimi to a dog park, she was very young and also the lone Pug in the house at that time. There was a Pug meetup at the dog park, so I thought this would be a great time to introduce her to other dogs. Only friendly Pugs were going to be there. Mimi was timid with the other dogs, and the other Pugs quickly picked up on this. Before I knew it, about 5 to 6 Pugs were chasing Mimi around. She was scared, with her ears pulled back. Some of the owners half-heartedly called their aggressive Pugs away, although the Pug dogs did not comply. Immediately, I picked Mimi up and got her to settle down in my arms. I attempted to put her back down on the ground, but I could see she was scared, and that was it for her that day. Fortunately, we did go to this group when she was older, and there were no long-lasting adverse effects. But there can be. A Pug can become traumatized and always be afraid of other dogs. It has affected their nervous system and, once triggered, can not talk themselves out of the emotional reactions. The same goes for our Pug dogs. Taking them back to the dog park after an event like that is okay sometimes. Sometimes not. If your Pug has been traumatized by aggressive Pugs or other dogs, they may be triggered by being there. Helping your Pug dog work through trauma can be a long process that requires a lot of patience on your part. Later I got Mimi and Lulu involved in training that built their confidence around other dogs, and no bullying was allowed. The message is that this rough behavior is a standard way to act with other dogs. Likewise, your Pug starts giving harsh treatment to other dogs. Raise your standards and keep your Pug safe and sweet. Otherwise, your Pug may think this is normal and act this way with other dogs. Or your Pug may be traumatized and out of their fear response, become aggressive with other dogs. Their fear may push them into a place where they think all dogs are aggressive. When Pugs or any dogs get overly excited, they may forget the social rules and fights starts. Another time of increased excitement is territorial barking. When two dogs see something on the other side of their fence or the mailman comes to the door, they may redirect the Pug aggression onto the other. These situations can trigger even the sweetest Pug to bite. It is crucial if there is something on the other side of the fence that is causing your Pug dogs distress to bring him inside. Bring your Pug inside if this happens. Firstly, our Pugs can not tolerate that type of heavy breathing for long periods. And it is not good for our Pugs or anyone to be left in a high distress situation for long periods of time. As already mentioned, dog parks can offer a lot of excitement in the environment. Also, other dogs may be protective of their ball or owner. He may aggressively approach your Pug dog or puppy. Uncrowded dog parks are better times to take your Pug, whether he is territorial and possessive or a sweet Baby Pug. Family vacations are a lot of fun. Family, friends, and their dogs that you and your Pug have not seen in a while can be stressful for your Pug. Make sure your Pug and all the dogs are safe, and no one needs a break. Be certain no dogs are showing beginning signs of aggression. You may be navigating your relationships, getting reacquainted with relatives and friends. The dogs may be figuring out their relationships with a lot of instincts about territory and protecting their owners. This could result in aggressive Pugs. Their fear response can result in their own aggression. Their fear response can look like barking, growling, lunging, and nipping. Given the opportunity to reach that other dog, they may become aggressive. Change in Routine We all like routine, even our Pug dogs. It tells us the world is a safe place, and we can expect what is going to occur next. This give build stress. We all like routine, even our Pug dogs. The stress has built up over time. You get that taken care of, get to work, and spill coffee on yourself before the meeting. There is too much going on at work, so we skip lunch. And it goes on like this until we get home and our child asks us to help him with his homework. This is how it can go with our Pug dogs also. Their owner skips their morning walk because she is in a hurry to get to work. The Fed-Ex person drops off a package and knocks on the door. That night there is a thunderstorm, and your Pug dog hides behind the couch. She ends up growling at you and backs up. She is exhibiting aggressive behavior. You conclude that your Pug dog is afraid of the thunderstorm, which is true. But throughout the day, many events increased her stress level, which you are not aware of. Pug Dogs Love Food, Bones, Toys, Sleeping Areas Dogs live in social groups, and if you have multiple dogs in the home, this hierarchy does exist and can change throughout the day or situation. This is my bone! Not exactly what you might call an aggressive move, but she is letting her know, using the least amount of energy that she can, that it is her toy. Here are some resources that your Pug dog may feel he or she needs to protect: Food Although Mimi and Lulu never had any fights over food, I put Lulu in her playpen when they eat. Before Lulu ate in her playpen, I would put both food bowls down on opposite sides of the room. They would start eating, and Mimi would run over towards Lulu to get her food. About halfway over, I believe Mimi realized that she just left her own bowl unattended and would go back. That seemed like a rather stressful meal for Mimi, so I began putting Lulu in her playpen. Now there are no running back and forth problems. Toys Toys are also a limited resource. Sometimes I buy a new toy, and it becomes the prized item. Both will do anything to get their teeth on that toy. Pug dogs may just play back and forth with the toy, but you never know. Watch for aggression. Bed Sleeping areas can be a problem. Sometimes there is a favorite bed or blanket that is the coveted position. Generally speaking, I go to bed about 20 minutes before the time I actually want to go to sleep. It is the same routine. Everyone has to get settled in. However, I feel like it is more than just getting comfortable. It has to do with who gets the prime spot with Mom that night. There is a lot of walking around, walking on top of me, and switching positions. Finally, everyone is settled in and feels content with their spot. Bones Bones are considered a high-value resource. I am speaking about the high-value bully stick or deer antler. Even dogs that get along great may show some signs of aggression when these are around. Attention Attention from Mom or Dad can feel like something a Pug needs to protect and get more of. Coming home from work can be a time to look for aggressive behavior. Do your Pugs greet you equally, or is one always pushing the other out of the way? Does one stare at the other Pug baby when you are giving her attention? Believe it or not, this is aggressive Pug behavior. We have an unusual situation in our house. When I give Mimi attention and kisses, if Lulu is nearby, she can not enjoy it. Comment below if this happens in your house. Changes in the Grumble Your Pug grumble has a ranking order, although it may be more challenging to see with Pugs as compared to Pitbulls. The higher-ranking Pug tolerates the lower-ranking members. That action reinforces that the higher-ranking Pug dog is at the top. When a higher-ranking Pug starts to become old and weak, a younger dog may step in. There are displays the younger-ranking dog will engage in to get the older higher-ranking dog to back down. It may be a form of mild aggression. The older Pug dog may get hurt as she is now weaker, may have medical issues. And those aches and pains of the older dog may lead her to be more aggressive. Sometimes dogs will strike out early in an attempt to get other dogs away. Getting romped on by Pug puppies or younger Pugs can be painful to an older Pug with stiff joints. However, the older dog may want to give up her top position and automatically defer. A mid-day afternoon nap followed by a cocktail sound much more pleasant. New Pug to the Grumble A new Pug added to the grumble makes changes in the social group. In such a scenario, the dogs will require some adjustments. The new Pug must find his place in the social hierarchy of the Pug grumble. Or he may be a Pug puppy without a care in the world, jumping all over everyone, oblivious to the signs the other Pug dogs are giving to respect their boundaries. If the new Pug is too assertive or the new Pug puppy is too carefree, there could be scuffles until everyone understands their place. Humans Owners can inadvertently fuel the fire of Pug problems. The owner may give too much attention to the new Pug baby in the grumble, making others jealous. The owner may intervene by trying to protect a lower-ranking dog. The Pug needs to learn to back off. If the owner intervenes by defending the lower-ranking Pug and correcting the higher-ranking Pug, this could escalate problems to aggressive Pug behaviors. We all do this type of behavior. You have school tomorrow. Same-Sex Pug Aggression Some breeds are more likely to engage in same-sex aggression than others. If you own two female or two male dogs, fighting is not unusual at all. Protective behavior or aggressiveness are not standard Pug traits. Therefore, there is a decreased likeliness for behavioral conflicts, but any breed may have this problem In nature, back in the day when wild Pugs roamed the land in grumbles, foraging for kibbles on their own, two males or two females of the same age would not be in the same social group. Once they matured, they leave the group to form groups of their own. Also, in the Pug pack, there were two separate hierarchies; one for males and one for females. It is also vital as hormonal changes in males and females can lead to same-sex Pug aggression or fighting. Dogs become socially mature between the ages of 12 to 36 months. Hormonal changes during heat cycles and pregnancy can increase the likelihood of fights, even between sweet Pug. However, when two females are close in age, there is a lot of competition. These fights occur, especially if the owner is around. Fights may occur over who gets in or out of the door first. I have to be very aware when I let my two females inside. There have been numerous times when I have had to tell everyone to calm down, going through the door. There can be squabbles over toys, food, treats, or the primo sleep location in bed. How to Prevent a Fight with Aggressive Pugs It is always better to prevent a fight, rather than try to break one up. Even two Pug babies can get pretty out of control. You must be willing to dedicate time and money to show your Pug baby the world and teach them how to live in it peacefully. Many people get Pugs because they are so easy going and lovable. However, our Pug dogs still need to learn to socialize with others. As I pointed out earlier in this article, a training arena may be the best place for that. If your Pug does not have problems with aggression, a proper training group will keep him safe while learning to navigate the world of dog socialization. And on the off chance your Pug dog is aggressive, regardless of the reason, we need to step in with socialization and proper training. Your Pug needs to be involved with different people, dogs, children, noises, other things, so if any problem arises, you can teach your Pug dog how to respond to it differently if she is aggressive or timid. Basic obedience training will help your Pug to listen to you better. Therefore, if your Pug is in a potentially volatile situation, you will be able to call him out of the situation or change his focus. Recognize Signals of Possible Fights One of the best ways to prevent fights is to pay attention and recognize subtle signs of conflict. Being watchful gives you an early on chance to separate the Pug dogs quickly and calm everyone down. Pay extra attention while at dog parks and other events where there are numerous dogs and people. Look for signals if there is a high-value item, such as a favorite toy or chew bone. Treats can lead to aggressiveness in Pugs. Watch for signals when they are having their extra rambunctious playtime. Also, if it has ever turned into a real fight, what happened just before it occurred. Look for the signs such as flat back ears, hackles standing up, and uneven winner and loser outcomes. If one Pug is always running and trying to get away, it is time to intervene. Intervene in a way that catches their attention, but is not aggressive. Yelling just adds to the arousal level and may increase the probability they will fight. That spit second lets me redirect them or call them to come to me. I also use a spray bottle. I used to use a long stream of water and spray it directly on them. Somewhere along the line, Lulu chewed on the end, and it only shoots a mist. So, I walk over and either just shake the bottle or shoot the mist. They stop and shake off. If your Pugs are outside and running back and forth with the dog on the other side of the fence, they may turn to their Pug pal on their side and direct their hostility on him. Give your Pugs some alone time is a family gathering or party with a lot of activity. If kids are rambunctiously running around, keep an eye on your Pugs. They may become overly excited, and a switch may flip that the kids are fighting, not playing. This in turn could create aggressiveness in your Pugs. You may notice that dogs rarely fight when then is no human in the room or area. Avoid dog parks if you have a dog that has a possessive demeanor. Not every dog is right for the dog park. Unfortunately, not everyone at a dog park has the same consideration, and even a docile dog can become involved in a fight. Even with this combination, they should be a few years apart. Like I said before, rarely are two dogs around the same age in a pack in the wild. Their wiring is for packs where males and females of different ages coexist. If you do have two females, the situation is not impossible. I think you have a better chance of creating natural harmony with Pugs as our Pugs are breed to be companion, loving dogs, as opposed to hunters, guardians, or aggressive types. Intervene if something looks like more than a minor squabble. You may need to spend more time in training sessions in a group setting. If you own two females or males and they are prone to fighting, never leave them alone together. They should be in separate rooms or crated. In our family, when I leave for work or the store, Lulu goes to her playpen. When I come out of my bedroom, dressed in work clothes, she runs into her playpen area. She has water, some toys, and a blanket. Separate will stop any aggressiveness with Pugs. As always, spaying and neutering your Pug dogs for other reasons is still a good idea. Same for Pugs. It could be their favorite toy, chew bones, high-value bones, like bully bones, treats, or their food bowl. They are more likely to be hyper-alert just as you are when some little kid tries to grab a handful of your Godiva chocolates. Feed your Pugs separately. I think this is always a good idea with Pugs. Most pugs, not all, are chowhounds. They love their dinner and breakfast. They love their food and are going to be more possessive than other dogs. Having two Pugs around food can lead to aggressive Pugs. Once finished, pick up their food bowls, clean them, and put them away. The sight of the other getting near their food bowl can be a trigger to defend what is rightfully theirs. Most dogs will hoard and become extremely possessive of bones and chew toys. If you need to take a bone away and are concerned your Pug dog is so possessive, he may nip you, distract him with something else and then remove it. Do not attempt to separate the aggressive Pugs by grabbing them. I have never known a Pug baby to bite anyone, but it could happen. Usually, I can get away with just shaking my water bottle near my Pugs, and they stop immediately. Overall, they are lovers, not aggressive fighters, so something like this should break them up. If more is needed, grab a baby gate or broom and put it between them. Make sure your loud noise is not you yelling. Your excitement can add to their excitement, escalating the entire situation, and make them more aggressive. The loud noise could be an air horn, door slam, or hitting a spoon on a pan lid. Generally, one loud, startling noise. Not a lot of yelling that is stimulating. I generally knock on the door or wall as if somone is coming over. They stop and look at the door. Once separated, put your Pug dogs in separate rooms. They will assess and evaluate what triggers the fights, who starts the fights, assesses their environment, and much more. These are not trainers. They are concerned with animals who are having behavior problems and set up programs to address and correct the issues. If this does not work, you will want to talk to your CAAB about dividing your home so your dogs can live separately or re-homing your Pug dog. If the dogs still live in a constant state of arousal even though they are separated, re-homing might be the best solution for the Pug dog, although heartbreaking for you. I have never heard of a Pug being re-homed due to aggressiveness. Work with your Veterinary and your Behaviorist to find the right option for your Pug. Hopefully, you will never have to take this route as Pugs are such a gentle breed, but if it does happen, you want to be sure to do what is in the best interest of your Pug dog. Although you can be hopeful, this does not mean it will be easy. Most likely, you will need to involve your Pug dog in group training and keep a watchful eye on their behaviors. Often they will exhibit a signal, sometimes slight, that they are getting annoyed or possessive and are about to lash out on another dog. Get your Pug dog spayed or neutered. Bringing another Pug into the grumble can take some thought on your part regarding sex and age of the new member. These are all life skills we teach our Pugs that do last a lifetime, and as an added bonus, we get to spend more time with our Pugs when training! Post navigation.

Your dog may suffer from indigestion if they are fed too late at night. A Boxer may struggle to acquire weight at times. Having three meals each day, including snacks, can help during this time. Adult Boxers should be fed in the morning, noon, and evening. Scheduled feeding times should be established early on to prevent weight-related diseases. Adult Boxers on a two-meal diet should eat in the morning and evening. Never let your dog exercise vigorously after a large meal, especially if they eat rapidly. This prevents bloating , intestinal obstruction, and other serious digestive problems. Introduce fewer carbs and consider nourishing their intestines and giving them micronutrients that help fight off disease-causing microorganisms. The following is a top-notch selection of Boxer food: Dry Food: Your best bet is to feed your Boxer dog grain-free kibble or dry kibble. Some even advocate dog food with human-grade ingredients. High-quality kibble containing animal protein formulated specifically for the growth and development of lean muscle mass in Boxers. Wet Food: Wet food is another commercial dog food option. If you want raw feeding for your Boxer, be sure to consult a veterinarian first, as raw diets can be tricky to prepare. Home-Cooked Diet: Aside from raw food, you can feed your Boxer home-cooked food as well. Always get your meat and other ingredients from reputable butchers and merchants to avoid potential problems. There are benefits and drawbacks to each of these dog food options mentioned above. But, for the most part, these are the best food options for the Boxer. If you are in doubt, seek the advice of an animal nutritionist or veterinarian. However, Boxers are susceptible to skin allergies caused by these products. To have a grain-free diet for your dog, you should look out for ingredients like brown rice, wheat, corn, and barley. Chocolate: While chocolate is a delicious treat for us humans, it can be harmful to your Boxer. The stimulants in chocolates, known as methylxanthines , make them toxic for dogs. It could be fatal if your dog has consumed cocoa powder, cocoa butter, or cooking chocolate. Fatty Meals: Pancreatitis outbreaks in dogs can be blamed on fatty meals. A veterinarian should always be consulted before feeding a dog a new diet. Call a veterinarian immediately if you believe that your Boxer dog has consumed something hazardous. Some dogs may have stomach upset and even appetite loss if you suddenly switch to a new high-quality food or diet. This shift should occur within a five- to seven-day time window. American Kennel Club AKC advocates starting with 25 percent of the new food for your Boxer and gradually increasing it until all of the old food has been replaced with fresh food, based on the same ratio. Below is a table showing what the AKC recommends as a standard diet transition plan for most dog breeds, including Boxers: Day. Yet underneath that strong and active exterior is a lot of labor and commitment to protecting their loved ones. When it comes to maintaining their health, you need to understand how much to feed a Boxer puppy. We have included a Boxer puppy feeding chart to help you take care of this breed. The daily food intake for a Boxer may range from one cup to four cups. Meal sizes for Boxers depend not just on weight but also on the sort of food they eat. Due to their medium size, boxer puppies need three daily meals and around four cups of food every day. Keep in mind that RER is only a rough estimate of how many calories your dog requires per day; other variables, including their age and activity level, will need to be included in as well. Keeping the puppy clean and warm is essential during this time, as is giving it enough milk or formula to help it thrive. Choose a premium puppy food that has been developed with their unique nutritional requirements in mind. Provide modest, regular meals three to four times a day. At the beginning, feed the puppy just a quarter to a half cup every day, and gradually increase the quantity as it grows. Always have clean water available, and keep an eye out for any symptoms of food intolerance or gastrointestinal distress. To keep them healthy, give them high-quality puppy food in many little meals throughout the day. Exercise, socializing, and the introduction of obedience training should all be high priorities. Keep a close eye on their eating habits and weight gain, and alter their food intake accordingly. This is a pivotal time for training and socializing, so be sure you provide lots of both. It is important to keep feeding them three times a day, and to stick with a high-quality puppy food. Provide around 2 and a half cups of food daily, split between three meals. Starting now is a great opportunity to introduce more advanced training methods like obedience or agility programs. Throughout a day, give them around 2 and a half cups of food. This is a pivotal time for further education and integration into society. Feed them around two and a half to three cups each day. Throughout this phase, they are still learning new skills and interacting with others, making it an essential part of their development. Provide two meals daily, adjusting the quantity of food based on their weight. Maintain a program of regular exercise and training, and watch out for any signs of age-related health decline. Boxer pups need a high-protein, moderate-fat diet for optimal growth and energy. Bone health may be supported by making sure the meal has enough calcium and phosphorus. Depending on its age and degree of activity, the calorie requirements of a Boxer puppy may range from around to 1, per day. A Boxer puppy requires between — calories per day when they are 8 weeks old, and — calories per day when they are 6 months old. Authentic meats and seafood, whole grains, and produce should all be included as ingredients on the label. Puppies of different ages have different dietary needs and feeding schedules. A Boxer puppy of 6 weeks old has to be fed times a day, with each meal consisting of only a few bites. Puppies need to be fed three times a day until they are three months old, then twice a day until they are 12 months old. Training and housebreaking are aided by establishing a consistent eating pattern. Yet, the two are not identical. Dry kibble offers the advantages of being portable, simple to store, and lasting for a long time. Crunchy kibble is good for your teeth because it encourages chewing, which may reduce plaque. Yet, some pups may prefer wet food because to its increased moisture content and inherent tastiness. In addition, it may help you stay hydrated, which is crucial to your health. The preference and dietary requirements of each puppy are unique, thus the choice between kibble and wet food must be made carefully. An animal hospital is the best place to get advice on what to feed a Boxer adult dog. Many factors might be at play if a Boxer puppy suddenly stops eating. Illness, stress, dental issues, and even just a change in habit may all cause lack of appetite in Boxer pups. Sometimes getting a puppy to eat may be as simple as presenting a more appetizing food, feeding it by hand, or making mealtime less of a stressful experience. Leaving food available for a puppy to graze on all day is considered free feeding, which is not advised for Boxer pups. Since free-feeding might induce overeating and weight gain, it is not recommended for Boxer pups. High-quality protein from genuine chicken initially supports muscular growth. This natural dog food has all the nutrition your puppy needs with whole grains, garden vegetables, and fruit. Pros Real chicken first ingredient for protein Contains DHA and ARA for cognitive function Wholesome whole grains, garden veggies, and fruit A blend of antioxidants, vitamins, and minerals No chicken by-product meals, corn, wheat, soy 2. Real chicken is the first ingredient in this tasty, nutritious puppy chow, delivering protein for strong muscles and a healthy heart. It also has a SmartBlend of high-quality, readily digested omega-6 fatty acids, vitamins, and minerals for a lustrous coat and healthy skin. Four antioxidant sources for strong immune system High-quality, easily digestible ingredients. Delicious crunchy bites and tender meaty morsels. Cons Contains some corn and wheat 3. This high-quality kibble for pups under 1 year old has actual chicken as the first ingredient and no chicken by-product meal, maize, wheat, or soy. Omega-3 fatty acids like DHA help brain and ocular development and deliver protein. Pros High-quality protein for muscle development and growth No GMO, chicken by-product meal, corn, wheat, or soy. Brain and eye growth from omega-3 fatty acids like DHA. This formula contains high-quality protein from lamb and omegarich fish oil to create lean muscles and enhance brain and eyesight development. Pros Protein-rich lamb is the first component. Omega-3 fish oil DHA for puppy brain and visual development. Calcium, phosphorus, and other minerals for bones and teeth, Vitamin A and omega-6 fatty acids for skin and coat Cons Lamb, may not suit all pups 5. Pros Flaxseed and salmon oil contain omega-3 fatty acids Grain-free Created by vets with protein, fat, and minerals Cons Not for ingredient-allergic pets. Raw feeding a Boxer puppy is a contentious issue with no clear consensus on whether or not it is healthy for the dog. Yet, some owners and vets are worried about the potential for bacterial contamination and nutritional imbalances in a raw diet, despite the fact that others feel it might give advantages including better digestion and coat health. Also, choose a reliable raw food supplier. The typical growth rate for a Boxer puppy is pounds per week for the first several months of life. A Boxer puppy, depending on its size and gender, may gain pounds by the time it is 6 months old. To make sure your Boxer puppy is developing normally, keep an eye on his or her size and weight. A constant supply of cool, fresh water is essential for the health of a Boxer puppy. Puppy development necessitates that they consume more water than an adult dog would. Puppies need half an ounce to an ounce of water per pound of body weight every day. A Boxer puppy weighing 20 pounds, for instance, should need 10 to 20 ounces of water each day. Puppy water consumption should be closely monitored to prevent dehydration. Peter My name is Peter and I am a dog lover. I have two German Shepherd dogs, one of which is called Biscuit because his coat is very light with brown patches. My wife and I moved from the UK to Ohio where we now live with our two daughters. We love squash on weekends and following the English Premier League closely! Previous Article. And, I'll go out on a limb to say I bet those early Boxers ate dog food with less additives and fillers than found in today's formulas. That is of course, unless you're armed with information on sourcing the best possible modern foods for feeding Boxer dogs! Adult Boxer dogs require 1, to 2, calories of good quality dog food per day depending on age and activity, with an averagely active adult dog somewhere midrange. Being a muscular breed that is highly active, Boxers require quality protein in food at a slightly higher level than many less active breeds. Credence should be given to invest in a quality kibble dog food with high protein and caloric value or go with a Raw Dog Diet , especially for active Boxers. Bloat Concerns This breed is prone to bloat, Gastric Dilatation-Volvulus , so grain free kibble and raw diets are a great option for feeding Boxer dogs. Carbohydrate and fat levels are less a concern when feeding Boxer dogs, yet Boxers are know to put on extra weight rather easily. Low carbohydrate diets should be fed to overweight dogs and the breed ideally should be slim, stocky and muscular. To learn how we choose quality kibble formulas, or for help selecting your own, visit our Feeding Dry Dog Food section. For a great alternative to kibble and food we highly recommend for Boxer dogs, visit our Raw Feeding Dogs section. Supplements As with any medium to large breed dog, providing a food that includes supplements adds additional insurance towards good health. To maintain your Boxer's joint health, foods containing chondroitin and glucosamine are awesome. If your kibble doesn't include these compounds, they can be supplemented separately with a product such a Cosequin. For a shiny coat and to promote skin health, foods with Omega-6 fatty acids are wonderful. For control of inflammation or arthritis pain in older Boxer dogs, support the heart, kidneys and stabilize overall mood, Omega-3 fatty acids are great to see on an ingredients panel. Just like Cosequin however, Omegas can be fed separately and as needed by simply squeezing a gel capsule over your Boxer's meal. In summary, feeding Boxer dogs about 2. Amount fed may go up or down based on your dog's size, weight, age and overall daily activity. Feeding Boxer Dog Puppies Quality formulated all life stages food and several small meals a day for a Boxer dog puppy. Your Boxer puppy will grow rapidly through the first six to eight months. Similar to any medium or large breed puppy that is susceptible to bone growth issues like hip dysplasia, feeding a quality all life stages, large breed puppy formula, or Raw Dog Food diet will help regulate growth. Boxer puppies can eat! Two to three regulated servings per day is recommended, do not free freed. There's an unwritten rule in among Boxer enthusiasts to feed at least twice as much food daily that your puppy would eat as an adult, In multiple regulated servings. Begin by following feeding guidelines per the label provided on your chosen Kibble Dog Food Formula. Increase or decrease the amount fed by assessing your Boxer's body weight and energy as he or she grows. From age 6 to 8 months on, the rapid growth phase should cease and while still technically a puppy, your Boxer can be transitioned to an adult diet. This includes higher protein foods yet many who were already feeing an all life stages formula can continue with the same. As always with both puppies and adult Boxers, keep an eye on your dog's weight. You should always see a trace of the last rib with this breed and they should appear slim, yet muscular. Adjust amount fed per serving accordingly to maintain that perfect Boxer appearance. And lastly, with all dog breeds that are prone to bloat, feeding Boxer dogs several small meals a day is a safer bet than free feeding, or one HUGE serving! Don't forget to check out our Feeding Dry Dog Food articles which focus on selecting a quality kibble for your Boxer dog. And, if there's another mid-size dog in your pack, Feeding Medium Size Dogs provides access to a library of breed specific feeding guides. For help choosing kibble dog food for your Boxer Dog plus additional info about raw feeding, visit our Homepage for quick banner access to the major sections of our website! Your vet can run the necessary tests and examine your puppy to determine the cause. Male Adult male Boxers are slightly larger than females. Males weigh an average of 60 to 70 pounds, requiring 3 to 5 cups of food. This weight range requires 2 to 4 cups of food per day. On top of a caloric increase, an active Boxer will also need a protein-rich diet to feed their muscles. A protein-friendly, calorie-dense dry kibble should be offered, and you should follow the instructions based on their weight. Image Credit: boxerdogmadness, Pixabay Sedentary Boxers tend to become overweight quickly if you overfeed them—blame their voracious appetites and love for snacking. This food offers a low-calorie alternative without skipping out on necessary nutrition. However, what really happens is that it decreases their metabolism rate, slowing their energy. This slowing process can cause weight gain if you continue to feed them the same amount of food. The puppies always get the nutrients first. So, if you have a food that is lacking in certain areas, the mother will suffer. Image Credit: Pixel-Shot, Shutterstock Boxer Feeding Guide for Seniors Just like puppyhood has special dietary requirements when dogs reach a certain age, so does old age. Seniors need to eat foods that cater to their life stage to keep them capable, happy, and healthy for their remaining years. A Boxer transitions into the senior category, usually around 6—9 years of age. If you have your dog on dog food for all life stages, it might be appropriate to continue this diet. A lower-calorie food will also help to prevent your dog from becoming overweight. If your senior has specific health issues, it might be best to feed them a specific diet that helps with their condition. As time goes on, you can work with your vet to accommodate their special dietary needs. It is formulated specifically for later years. Some dogs have voracious appetites that are never satisfied. It seems like you barely get it into the bowl before they suck it up like a vacuum cleaner. Free-Feeding—this practice involves making food available to your dog at all times. The danger with this method is that large dogs like Boxers are susceptible to bloat, or gastric dilation-volvulus GDV. Bloat happens when the dog eats too quickly, causing gas to fill the abdomen. It can be fatal. This method can also make overeating seem like the norm, which causes bad manners. Feeding your dog smaller, more frequent meals is a better alternative to free-feeding. Slow-Feeder Bowls—a great way to slow your pooch down, allowing them to digest their food properly, is to give them food in a slow feeder. It gives your Boxer unique designs to eat around, stimulating their mental curiosity while slowing them down. What Foods Are Bad for Boxers? Some things to look out for are: Corn. Besides a nutritious diet, Boxer owners must know the right time to feed their pups. Boxer puppy feeding schedule is made easy with this Boxer feeding chart. Larger and stronger Boxer pups push their weaker siblings aside to get the most food. This is why many Boxer breeders and owners make sure that all puppies get enough food. Two week old tiny Boxer puppies are new to this world and rely completely on the Boxer mother. They should always stay with their mother because her breast milk is their main and only source of nutritious food. During this period, two week old Boxer puppies open their eyes for the first time. However, they are still dependent on the Boxer mommy. Even though they are double the size at three weeks of age, Boxer pups are still nursing. During the period between four to six weeks, their teeth grow bigger and the Boxer mommy will wean them off soon. At four weeks of age, the Boxer mother starts weaning her puppies. To help the Boxer puppy transition from milk to store-bought puppy food, it is time that you try making puppy mush. Try offering your Boxer pup this mixture up to four times per day but make sure not to overfeed it. Too much puppy mush can cause your Boxer pup loose stools and diarrhea. However, most Boxer puppies will need some time to fully get used to their new diet. That said, you will need to soften the puppy food that your seven week old Boxer puppy is eating. You should give your Boxer puppies high-quality food three to four times a day. Boxer puppies at this age love to eat, so make sure not to overfeed them two cups per day. This means that your Boxer puppy is totally ready for proper mealtime! The feeding schedule should include: breakfast, lunch, and dinner. They will also have more energy, which may necessitate consuming more calories or eating larger portions. Its little body needs all the nutrients from high quality food it can get. At this point, your Boxer puppy eats twice the amount of food an adult Boxer dog would eat. Even though your eleven week old Boxer puppy has an enormous appetite, you must not leave food to its own will. So, every time it is done eating, you should pick up the leftover dog food. Make sure to separate the amount of food in 3 to 4 smaller portions through the day. At six months of age, the Boxer puppy is growing rapidly and you might want to consider home-cooked dog food or introducing it to a raw diet. High-quality commercial dog food is packed with necessary nutrients, but nothing can replace a good home-cooked meal! The period between seven to twelve months of age is when you will want to give your Boxer puppy less food than you would feed a 5 month old Boxer. At twelve months of age, Boxer puppies will do well with two meals per day. However, this depends on the health state and development of your Boxer puppy. If the Boxer pup is more on the skinny side, then you should feed it more food than described in feeding charts. Just make sure to ask your vet to help you develop a balanced diet for your Boxer pup. Fully grown male adult Boxer dogs reach between 65 to 80 pounds, whereas adult female Boxer dogs weigh a bit less, reaching anywhere from 50 to 65 pounds. Adult Boxer dogs should be fed two meals per day — breakfast and dinner. The most important thing is to take away leftover dog food when your Boxer dog is done eating. Due to the fact that the Boxer dog breed is prone to bloating a life-threatening condition , owners and breeders should be cautious around feeding them too much food. If you have owned Boxers or if you are currently a proud owner of the Boxer, then you know how highly energetic these pooches are. Well, due to their high energy levels, Boxers require a lot of exercise. With frequent exercise comes heavy calorie burning after which your Boxer dog needs more food! Besides high energy levels, Boxer dogs are medium breed dogs that inherit faster metabolism than an average medium-sized dog. That said, Boxer dogs require food that is rich in calories and nutrients to make up for the energy that they use during the day. The best Boxer food will be one that is made for active dogs and includes all the vitamins and minerals they require to stay healthy and fit. Young Boxer puppies should eat more than a cup per day, while older Boxer puppies can consume up to three cups daily because their nutritional needs are higher. Adult Boxers require about 40 fewer calories per pound of body weight than puppies. That said, daily food intake for adult Boxer dogs typically ranges from 3 to 5 cups, depending on their weight. Adult Boxer dogs should be fed twice a day, while Boxer puppies must be fed 3 to 4 meals per day. All dog breeds require basic ingredients in dog food such as protein, carbs, fatty acids, vitamins, and minerals. But the Boxer dog breed is a bit different. Because Boxers are hyper dogs with insane energy levels! So, a good diet for a Boxer pup must consist of basic ingredients, but you may also want to boost it with home-cooked food and supplements. This is why you have to choose the best source of protein for your Boxer dog. Poultry, beef, and seafood are excellent sources of animal protein for Boxer dogs because they are easy on their digestive system. Fatty acids like omega-6 and omega-3 are great for your Boxer dog because they give its coat extra shine and make its skin healthier. With a proper diet that is packed with vitamins and fatty acids, Boxer coat colors become more vivid and its coat sheds less! Fruit and veggies are also great for Boxer dogs because they are packed with vitamins and minerals which are essential for a healthy metabolism. Dairy products like whipped cream and blue cheese should either not be given at all or given in very small amounts. Grain-Free Diet What makes the Boxer dog breed different from other medium-sized dogs is that they are prone to developing Gastric Dilatation-Volvulus bloat. This means that the majority of Boxer dogs will have to go on a special diet. Grain-free diets are usually recommended for adult Boxer dogs in order to avoid bloat and other digestive system issues. We can say that Boxer dogs have more sensitive stomachs than other dog breeds. Not only can these ingredients trigger canine bloat, but they can also cause food allergies. Supplements Sometimes a simple diet for your Boxer dog is simply not enough. Due to their rapid growth and high activity levels, Boxer dogs need to keep their joints in tip-top condition. So, you want to search for food supplements that contain glucosamine chondroitin — compounds that are essential to joint health. Moreover, Boxers are prone to elbow and hip dysplasia which is why these supplements are of utmost importance. But, the Boxer dog breed is a bit different than the rest. Now, I know that this is an ongoing dilemma to the majority of Boxer owners, as there is no correct answer. Dry Dog Food Despite the fact that many Boxers dogs may prefer wet over dry dog food, dry kibble is preferable to keep their teeth and gums healthy, and their jaw strong. The crunch of a hard kibble will help to some extent to remove plaque, but you will still need to provide some at-home dental care. Pure kibble diets are perfectly acceptable to give to your Boxer dog. Additionally, you can boil some chicken or give your Boxer dog some raw meat. Boxers love those! It is perfectly fine to feed your Boxer dog a pure kibble diet. But, you will want to make it a bit more interesting by adding some dog food toppers, cooked or raw meat, fish, and vegetables. Wet Dog Food Wet food has more water, which keeps Boxer dogs hydrated throughout the day. Compared to dry dog food, wet food has higher fat content which is a no-no for Boxers that are prone to canine obesity. For most Boxer dogs that are prone to heart disease like cardiomyopathy, wet food with high fat content may be too much. Different Boxer dog life stages require different food amounts. Besides the life stage your Boxer dog is in, we should take into consideration that Boxers are medium-sized dogs, which means that they require a healthy diet that is specially designed for medium breed dogs. Age Earlier in this article we have mentioned that Boxer puppies need a special diet that consists of a higher percentage of protein, carbs, vitamins, and minerals. This is perfectly understandable because Boxer puppies need a healthy diet to grow. Additionally, Boxer puppies are always on the go and their bodies burn calories like crazy! In contrast to young Boxer puppies, old Boxers need to be fed a healthy diet that has a lower content of protein and fat. Naturally, the metabolism of a Boxer dog slows with age. So, due to the fact that many senior Boxer dogs are less energetic and more on the lazy side, they burn fewer calories. A slower metabolism is one of the main reasons why older Boxer dogs become obese because excess calories from high-calorie dog food are converted into fat. Failure to feed a diet designed for the unique requirements of medium to large-breed puppies like the Boxer can lead to health issues such as canine arthritis , hip dysplasia, cardiomyopathy, and obesity. This is why you have to choose Boxer food that is designed to control the amount of calories and calcium consumed in order to reduce the risk of these health issues. Gender Regardless of the gender, all Boxer dogs need the right nutrients that will help them stay healthy and strong as they grow. However, the nutritional needs of male Boxer dogs greatly differ from those of female Boxers. Research shows that intact male Boxer dogs eat more than their neutered counterparts. Which is pretty obvious due to the fact that intact male Boxer dogs go crazy when they show signs that they want to mate. In fact, intact male Boxer dogs are known to roam and jump fences in order to get to their ladies. Roaming and chasing those female Boxer beauties burns away all the calories! So, intact male Boxer dogs are always hungry! Neutered Male Boxer Dog Upon reaching sexual maturity, intact male Boxer dogs often become restless and impossible to handle. This is the period when you can see signs that your male dog needs to be neutered. Neutered male Boxer dogs have lower energy needs than their intact counterparts. After having your Boxer dog neutered, you have to put it on a special diet to ensure a fast recovery. In fact, you will need to cut the food portion in half because neutered Boxer dogs require fewer calories. If your neutered male Boxer dog starts to lose weight, you can reintroduce a gradual increase in food. Intact Female Boxer Dog Intact female Boxer dogs typically need fewer calories than both intact and neutered male dogs. Intact female Boxers that are fed the same diet as intact male Boxer dogs are more prone to obesity and heart problems. Spayed Female Boxer Dog Boxer dogs that have been spayed or neutered have lower levels of estrogens and androgens, which, just like in neutered male Boxer dogs, lowers their metabolic rate. Therefore, the spayed female Boxer dog requires less energy. After surgery, the appetite of a female Boxer dog might increase because estrogen has been shown to suppress hunger. To ensure that your spayed female Boxer maintains a healthy body constitution and condition, the amount and type of food must be changed. Pregnant Female Boxer Dog Once your female dog starts showing signs of pregnancy , get ready to learn more about what a feeding schedule for a pregnant pooch looks like. Start by offering your pregnant Boxer dog smaller and more frequent meals rather than large portions. Pregnant Boxers will have less space in their tummy for large amounts of food so make sure to keep the balance between small meals. Additionally, her diet should consist of a lot of soluble carbohydrates along with a little fiber. One of the most crucial minerals for pregnant Boxer dogs are calcium and phosphorus. These minerals support healthy bone development of unborn Boxer puppies. Activity Levels Boxer puppies, adolescents, and young adult dogs that are in perfect heath have insane energy levels! This means that their activity levels are high and they need regular exercise. When your Boxer pup runs all over the place, it needs a lot of nutritious food to feed those muscles! Boxer dogs that receive these optimal levels of dietary protein are more likely to perform to their full potential. Besides healthy protein intake, active Boxer dogs need a bit of carbohydrates. If you notice that your Boxer dog is gaining more weight , simply feed it less, and if they are becoming underweight, feed more. Lazy Boxer Dogs Adult Boxer dogs differ from one to another and have different activity levels. While active adult Boxer dogs normally active require 30 calories per pound of body weight, lazy Boxer dogs require less calories per day to maintain their overall health and avoid becoming obese. Senior Boxer Dogs The majority of senior Boxer dogs frequently prefer canned or raw food over dry dog food. Maybe it is because their teeth are not as strong as before, or simply because of the added moisture found in canned dog food. Even though senior Boxer dogs tend to eat less because they are less active and have slower metabolisms, they require dog food that is high in energy, antioxidants, and fatty acids. This is why senior dog food for Boxers features a healthy balance of antioxidants and fatty acids. Senior Boxer dogs typically prefer smaller portions that are given more frequently throughout the day rather than two fully loaded bowls a day. What Foods Should Boxers Avoid? As we mentioned in the grain-free diet part, Boxer dogs should avoid any dog food that contains wheat, corn, or soy. These ingredients are merely fillers for your Boxer dog, offering little to no nutritional value. In fact, the majority of food allergies in dogs are triggered by grains such as wheat and corn. Besides these common dog food ingredients, Boxer dogs should avoid human food like chocolate, macadamia nuts, milk, avocado, candy, and spicy food. Cooked bones should never be given to Boxer dogs. So, when cooking bone broth for your Boxer dog, make sure to get rid of all cooked bones. Boxer dogs are known to have sensitive stomachs. If your Boxer dog ingests food that is toxic to its digestive system, chances are that it will throw up yellow or develop diarrhea. It is best to consult with your veterinarian and go over any worries you have about what foods your Boxer dog should avoid. While many Boxer dogs simply have an insane desire for food, an increased appetite also known as polyphagia can also indicate a number of health problems. For example, Boxers with diabetes often show signs of polyphagia or an insatiable appetite. These can be signs that your senior dog with diabetes is dying. Besides health issues and all that serious stuff, Boxer dogs can simply inherit a faster metabolism which makes them always hungry. Owners are understandably worried when their Boxer pup abruptly stops eating or gradually loses interest in food. In the absence of other symptoms of health issues, a Boxer not eating is typically not a cause for concern. Normally, stress, reaction to medication, and changes in their environment, can all cause a Boxer pup to stop eating. Boxer puppies that are in their teething period like to nibble on people or objects, rather than consuming their puppy food. Some Boxer pups experience severe discomfort and pain while teething which reduces their will to eat. A Boxer puppy may frequently stop eating due to intestinal parasitic infestation or infections that cause upset stomach. The lack of appetite in Boxer puppies could be a sign of a serious issue like a blockage or poisoning. In other cases, Boxer dogs can lose their appetite due to internal obstructions, pain, and dental issues. The best food for your Boxer dog is usually food that is made for active dogs. While most Boxer owners prefer the Royal Canin brand, there are other commercial dog foods across the U. The majority of Boxer dogs inherit a sensitive stomach, so it is best to avoid bad food brands and to consult your veterinarian about the best dog food that you can find. Conclusion Give your hungry Boxer pooch all the nutrients they need to stay healthy and live a long life! The best way to keep a Boxer pup happy is by giving it nutritious food and lots of exercise. This Boxer feeding chart explains how much food a Boxer needs based on its activity levels. So, I believe that you have gotten the hang of this feeding guide! Make sure to ask your Boxer breeder for additional tips and tricks. Even though this Boxer feeding chart answers the most common questions about Boxer diet and feeding schedule, in case your Boxer puppy is showing signs of health issues, call your veterinarian for a check-up. Related Content. Every bite of food will be detrimental or beneficial to this breed's health. Overview Food is fuel both for a growing Boxer pup and large strong adult Boxer dogs. The type of food that you offer for both meals and snacks has a direct affect on your Boxer's health both now and in the future. Also of importance is a feeding schedule and making sure that you offer the proper amounts. This section will cover everything you need to know in order to provide a well-balanced, nutritious diet for your Boxer puppy, adult, or senior. How Often to Feed a Boxer Puppy or Dog Let's look at a summary and then the details: Puppies under 12 weeks: free-fed Puppies and up to the 2-year mark: 3 meals per day Adults 2 years and up: 1 to 2 meals per day Young pups 8 to 12 weeks old: Very young pups, and particularly those that are a bit underweight, should be free-fed for at least the first month at their new home. This is the method of having fresh food accessible at all times. For a pup still trying to gain their bearings, you may need to lead them to their bowl throughout the day. Note that food should be thrown out and the bowl washed and then refilled several times per day as opposed to just topping off the food since pups may not be interested in stale food. Growing pup to 2 year mark: It's best to get a Boxer onto a feeding schedule as soon as possible. Schedules of anything feeding, exercise, sleep time, etc. Young Boxers often struggle a bit to fill out and during the 1 to 2-year mark Boxers can go through a 'skinny phase', so 3 meals per day, plus snacks, can work well during this time. Adults 2 years and up: Most adult Boxers that have reached their final adult weight and height do well with 2 meals per day, plus snacks. If snacks are regular and of substance, a Boxer may be perfectly content with 1 main meal per day. Note that this breed is prone to bloat, so you want to avoid letting a Boxer get so hungry that he rapidly gulps his food down. If that is the case, increase the frequency of meals or use a slow-feed bowl; stainless-steel is best, something like Mr. How Much to Feed a Boxer Puppy or Dog The exact serving size that is appropriate for each Boxer varies and depends mainly on age and current weight but also is affected by activity level, health status, type of food wet vs dry , and individual metabolism. This said, there are general guidelines: Puppies usually require about 55 calories for each pound of body weight. Young pups might eat a bit over a cup a day, older pups can eat up to 3 cups a day. Adults need fewer calories per pound of body weight than their younger counterparts, about .Depending on an adult Boxer dog's size, food is usually in the 3 to 5 cup per day range. To know exactly how much to give your Boxer, know your dog's weight. Don't guess since that can be wildly off. Then, look at the feeding guidelines on the bag of kibble; these are listed by age and weight and are usually pretty spot on. Dry Kibble vs Wet Canned Though many Boxers may prefer wet canned food, dry kibble is better to maintain healthy teeth and gum and a strong jaw. You'll still have to provide some level of at-home dental care , but the crunch of a hard kibble will work to some extent to remove plaque. Additionally, dry food seems to keep the stools firmer and healthier. If your Boxer is a finicky eater and balks at dry food, try mixing in just a bit of canned stick with the same brand or add just a bit of water or low-sodium chicken or beef broth. Grain vs Grain-free It's wasn't that long ago that putting a dog on a grain-free diet wasn't much of a big deal. Some grains, especially those with gluten, can cause excessive gas , upset stomach, and other issues. And, some dogs are allergic to wheat or gluten which can manifest as itching and other skin problems. But recently, a suspected link between certain grain-free dog foods and dilated cardiomyopathy DCM, a canine heart disease caused veterinary experts to take pause. And, since Boxers are one of the breeds prone to DCM, it's important to understand where things are on this. Though it was first thought that any grain-free diet may be the cause, the current thought is that it is a BEG diet, meaning boutique small specialty brands that have exotic meats non-traditional meats like alligator, kangaroo, bison, venison, etc. Many more studies need to be done for conclusive answers to be found. For now, it is recommended to offer healthy grains and this can be done while avoiding gluten if your Boxer has an issue with it. Navigating the Many Choices of Dog Foods What to Avoid: Many brands are guilty of having at least one of these elements that you do not want your Boxer's food to have: No grains at all. Until conclusive studies are complete, play it safe and offer a kibble with some level of healthy grains unless the veterinarian recommends otherwise Boxer needs to be on a specific grain-free diet, etc. Synthetic preservatives. These can be toxic. Butylated hydroxyanisole BHA , butylated hydroxytoluene BHT , and ethoxyquin, just to name a few, are linked to behavioral issues, organ damage, and some forms of cancer. Artificial coloring. Common dyes like Yellow 5 and 6 and Blue 2 are linked to behavioral and health issues. Artificial flavor enhancers. MSG is one of the worst, it is linked to anxiety, rapid heartbeat, and breathing issues. Generic animal digest, meats, oils, or fats. When anything is listed as 'animal', it is derived from a 4-D animal: dead, dying, diseased or disabled animals and can literally be any meat from any animal at all: minks from mink farms, roadkill, zoo animals, expired meats from supermarkets and butcher shops, etc. Fillers are cheap ingredients that are put into dog food to bulk it up but they have little to no nutritional value. The 'food' goes right through their system; a dog will eat but be hungry again soon afterward and this is one cause of coprophagia eating feces. These are the animal parts that are not fit for human consumption and includes such things as spinal tissue, lungs, spleens, hooves, tails, undeveloped eggs, etc. Made outside North America since meats from overseas can be questionable. The kibble will be preserved using a vitamin blend often listed as mixed tocopherals and will be naturally flavored and colored. Some level of grains. Grains that are generally well-tolerated include rice, oatmeal, and quinoa. Wholesome real meats, veggies, and fruits. Some ingredients sourced from Norway are fine; this country has very strict guidelines. If you are not sure what is in your Boxer's food, investigate it. Know about grain content and the presence or lack of additives and subpar ingredients. Recommended Dog Food for Boxers Please note that the following recommendations are formulas with some level of healthy grains; if you did not read the previous ' Grain vs Grain-free ' you may wish to do so before continuing on. This meets all of the requirements of what you're looking for. There are no synthetic preservatives; vitamins are used instead shown as mixed tocopherals. The grains in this formula are generally very well tolerated: quinoa technically a seed , oatmeal, and barley. There are 3 different recipes to choose from: beef, chicken, or lamb. Other ingredients include peas, salmon, carrots, apples, blueberries, and flaxseed. There are good levels of glucosamine chondroitin vital for joint health , antioxidants, and omega fatty acids important for skin and coat health. There are no by-products, fillers, or generic meats or oils and this is sourced and made in the USA. For this one, the base is chicken a very classic tasty protein that most dogs love , along with oatmeal, brown rice, ground barley, peas, flaxseed, carrots, tomato pomace, spinach, sweet potatoes, apples, and blueberries. All other ingredients shown on the label are either vitamins and minerals or natural preservatives. This has no wheat, corn, soy, meat by-products, artificial flavors, colors or preservatives, and this is made in the USA. This brand offers a top-quality formula that is gluten-free. There is no wheat, corn, soy, by-products, artificial flavors, artificial colors, or chemical preservatives. The base is chicken and brown rice and other ingredients include white rice, oatmeal, rice bran, avocado, flax seed, herring, and kelp. It has good levels of omega fatty acids and antioxidants. The one trade-off for having it be gluten-free is that it does not contain any fruit; however, it does have all required vitamins and minerals and you can always offers a small amount of fresh fruit as snacks. Homemade Vs Commercial Commercial dog food is convenient and, if you choose a superior brand, it will ensure that your Boxer receives all needed nutrients and is on a well-rounded and well-balanced diet. And, home cooked food gives you complete control over what your Boxer eats and does not eat and can be tweaked to satisfy a finicky eater. So, there are pros and cons to each. Whether you opt for a top-quality kibble or you use good cuts of meat and fish and fresh produce in homemade meals, neither option is super-cheap. Because, of course, you get what you pay for. But, if you buy in bulk and lean toward frozen vegetables and fruits, home cooking may be a bit less expensive. That said, when you prepare meals at home, you'll need to offer a good daily vitamin and mineral supplement even good brands of kibble need to add this in because it's nearly impossible for a dog to receive all nutrients just from food alone. Some of the foods that can be incorporated into meals include: Proteins: Chicken, turkey, veal, beef, fish mackeral, haddock, salmon, whitefish, cod, and others , eggs, and certain beans kidney, lima Vegetables: Carrots, broccoli in moderation , potato, sweet potato, sugar snap peas, green beans, spinach Fruits: Blueberries, raspberries, strawberries, pumpkin Grains: Quinoa, oatmeal, rice Related Articles: Best Snacks, Chews, and Treats for a Boxer - A great rundown of the difference between these 3 things and top recommendations. How many calories does a Boxer dog need - Requirements based on age, size and activity level. Recommendations to lower or raise intake. Boxer dog weight issues - This breed can become overweight, usually due to a combination of eating too much and being sedentary. Boxer begging behavior - Boxers are pretty good at playing their humans and it's easy to fall into the trap of giving in to begging. Read how to stop the cycle. Choosing the Best Bowl for a Boxer - Size, height, material and design are all important. Male boxer puppies would be around 17 inches or more during their 6th month while females will be slightly smaller at around 16 inches. Birth to 3 weeks old When your boxer pup is still very young, they should be with their mom and be nursed properly. Keep in mind that your boxer should get equal amounts of milk, especially if they belong to a large litter. Observe the litter for any signs of bullying or some puppies being overpowered. This is also the case if the mother is too thin to supply milk to all of her pups. When your puppy reaches 3 weeks of age, you might start to notice rapid growth. That is normal for boxer puppies since the breed tends to grow faster than most dogs. Boxer pups of this age still need to be nursed. To do this mix 1 part puppy food with 3 parts water in a bowl and offer it to them. It also helps to train your pups to only eat when they are hungry. A good rule of thumb in terms of scheduling for the water and puppy food mixture would be 3 to 4 times a day. You want the process to be a pleasant one for your boxer pup. This is when the weaning process becomes slightly visible. The mother dog will slightly let go of her little ones for them to be independent. Keep them away from dangerous objects and supervise them as much as possible. Ensure that their food is easy to chew to avoid eating problems. If your vet allows for it, you can add some veggies or other food ingredients that are deemed safe for pups as advised. Your puppy will need more nutrition by this time so they need to learn to eat solid puppy food. After all, 6 weeks old is a time for exploration, playtime, and energy bursts whether indoors or outdoors. You may also want to feed them more if they spend a lot more time playing or running around. Once your puppy reaches 7 weeks old, they should already know how to eat their solid food. Give them the serving somewhere between 3 and 4 times a day depending on your available time and their hunger pangs. Your boxer pups will also get nursed less often during this time, as the mother will likely just stand up while giving milk reluctantly to her little ones. She might even run away from them at some point, allowing them to become more independent. Keep their meals served at 3 to 4 times a day, with at least 2 or more cups per day, divided equally. You can also follow the chart that we mentioned above, especially if your boxer pup is quite the active fellow. Having more cups a day is important for puppies that have far less weight than others. You can also ask your vet about how many calories they need depending on their energy levels. Know the activity levels of your puppy and adjust accordingly. If your boxer pup is always on the go, they might need more calories than usual. Moreover, a 9-week-old boxer pup might also roam around and pick various objects to ensure that their surroundings are kept puppy-proofed. Bloating comes from excessively gobbling food so make sure they only get equal portions for their daily meal schedules. While we did say that boxer pups during this period are likely to eat twice as much as a regular adult boxer, always observe if your puppy is getting overweight by checking their waist. Talk to your vet if you suspect your pup might be gaining too many pounds. Always keep in mind to avoid bloating problems with your pup by ensuring the schedule gets followed. Continue with the usual puppy food or as instructed by your vet. Recommended Food Now that your boxer puppy has a set schedule, what should you feed them? Here are some suggestions: 1. Quality Kibble Like most active breeds, dry kibble is the way to go if you want affordable and easy-to-store food for your boxer puppy. Worry not — there are grain-free options in the market. Wet or canned food If you want added calories for an active boxer puppy, consider wet food. After all, canned puppy food is tasty to most dogs, especially during their puppy years, since the smell is enough to get them eating. Omega fatty acid foods Boxers are prone to cardiomyopathy, which can be lessened if they take foods and supplements rich in omega fatty acids, such as fish. Talk to your vet for a diet plan that will help lessen the likelihood of such eye problems. Glucosamine foods Hip dysplasia is common in boxers so we recommend foods that are rich in glucosamine, such as chicken feet and seafood. Consider looking for either kibble or canned puppy food that has glucosamine to help prevent hip dysplasia and other joint problems. Look for primarily meat-based puppy food rather than cheap commercial brands. Commercial brands out there may have more corn and wheat than protein from meat. Instead, look for slightly pricier yet more quality brands of puppy food for your boxer. And, as usual, you should also stay away from human foods that are toxic to dogs, such as grapes, chocolate, caffeine, alcohol, artificial sweeteners, and the like. FAQs on Feeding a Boxer Puppy Boxer pups need extra care when it comes to their diet — here are some frequently asked questions with regards to feeding them properly: When do I switch to adult food for my Boxer puppy? By this time, you can slowly transition your puppy to adult food in portions. Should I give my Boxer puppy supplements? As a workaholic dog breed, boxer pups need protein and other nutrients, which are fortunately already in most quality dog food brands. Raw feeding a Boxer puppy A raw diet is okay for boxer puppies provided that you get expert advice from your vet about it. Raw feeding is no walk in the park since you need to do the math on calories and nutrients as compared to commercial food. Also, take note of food handling to avoid bacterial infection, especially if you live in areas where humidity is high. If you need help, talk to a breeder or someone you know tried raw feeding before — especially for puppies. Conclusion A healthy and energetic boxer puppy will be a satisfied life companion if you feed them properly. All you need to know is that boxers are typically workaholics so they need to have a balanced diet with sufficient calories based on their activities. We hope this helped you figure out how much to feed your boxer puppy! How much food to feed a boxer puppy How much food to feed a boxer puppy May 15, Let Everyone know For decades the Boxer dogs have been loved and cherished all over the world. Their imposing build along with their gentle and playful personalities captured the hearts of many dog lovers. This broad and muscular breed burns a massive amount of energy in their day-to-day life course, and thereby their diet and feeding formulas are subject to additional requirements. So the food to feed a boxer puppy must be taken in to consideration. To provide the boxer with quality and meaningful life, it is rather important to know how much food they should be fed, what and how often they should be fed. Concerns when feeding a Boxer puppy Boxers are a medium to large dog breed of German descent. Bred to bait bulls in the 19th century, they were fed a lot healthier than they are today, and their dietary habits were managed better. They are, by nature, lovely and enthusiastic, not to mention, far more involved when they are puppies. Their dietary requirements are a little different from other dog races due to certain anatomical variations. What food to Feed a Boxer Puppy Although it is undoubtedly not a fact that boxers are picky eaters, they may have special nutrition requirements when it comes to their feeding. Puppies typically need a nutritious feeding formula with a minimum of .Also, calcium and phosphorus are needed to maximize bone growth for your boxing puppy with ratios of at least or even .However, more is not always better. This will keep your Boxer pup from developing joint problems like osteochondritis or hip dysplasia. Boxers are also vulnerable to food-related allergies that can occur as food intolerances such as itching and inflammation. So choosing the right feed for your Boxer Pup might necessitate some experimentation. And indefinitely the feeding rate varies with the growth of your boxer. Boxer puppies, however, demand about 55 calories of food per pound of body weight, from a general viewpoint. A Boxer puppy is likely to become a medium to large muscle and a lean dog between 50 and 70 pounds if it feeds the correct food type and amounts. Since they are a highly active muscle species, they need high-quality protein foods to feed their energy slightly more than other less active breeds. Many dog food brands have just 25 percent protein formulas, which could prove to be inadequate for a Boxer puppy. It is therefore critical that you do your research and invests in a feeding formula of good quality. There is a common misconception that Boxer puppies should be fed twice as much food as they can consume as adults. It is still a good idea, however, to weigh your puppy every week or every two weeks and change the food intake accordingly. Some puppies may be susceptible to elevated protein, in which case food with moderate protein and fat content is recommended. Besides, Boxers will require a Calcium-to-Phosphorous ratio as near as possible to .In the first 6 to 8 months, your puppy can develop steadily in size and maturity. When your puppy grows older, you should decrease food consumption progressively as it can go longer without food. Kibble specifically intended for Boxer puppies is what is widely recommended as a choice of food as it helps preserve both intestinal and oral health and is nutritious. Some Boxer puppies tend to be a bit sensitive to food, in which case you may have to try a few options before you settle on your favorite puppy. Food with Omega-6 fatty acids is great for a sparkling coat and to support skin health. During their development, Boxer puppies need the recommended quantities of high-quality food and feeding formulas in different ranges. They can be fed up to 4 times a day between 2 and 4 months. Individual pups can still be eaten 3 times daily between 4 and 6 months. The frequency is reduced 2 to 3 times daily over 6 months. It is also possible to maintain this level of food in adulthood. This is the stage where you can teach your pup some food or sleep or exercise discipline and whatnot. In these cases, three meals a day can be considered. However, 2 meals per day are the preferred feeding schedule for your dog to train. You can feel some pressure from its ribcage or spine as you place your hands on the chest or back of your puppy. And you can encounter several problems by over-feeding your puppy. Bloating Bloating is a problem that is particularly common among boxer puppies. It can happen if you feed your puppy too much or too little. Constant bloating may contribute to other more severe gastrointestinal problems that could prove fatal to your dog. For this reason, boxer puppies are often recommended eating kibble-free foods and raw diets as they use more plant-based protein and carbohydrate formulas. Other food sources containing items such as grain, wheat, rice, and oats are frequently discouraged and may trigger excess gas in boxer puppies, which in turn causes bloating problems. Obesity As previously described, boxers are ideally supposed to have a slim, muscular build. They are not specifically susceptible to gaining too much weight, which is why the level of carbohydrates and fats in their food formulations is less of concern. However, boxer puppies or any dog are considered to be opportunistic when it comes to feeding. They will also continue to eat as long as they have food at their mercy. Boxer puppies may end up overeating for these reasons, which could cause them to become obese and overweight. This, in essence, will make their joints weak and cause arthritis, heart disease, liver disease, and kidney problems. There may be a variety of reasons why your puppy does not eat enough. Very frequently, loss of appetite is also one of the first symptoms of a more severe illness. This can also occur due to various reasons, such as; Anorexia Anorexia is indeed a problem for dogs, just as it is for human beings. Symptoms of anorexia include fever, pain, shortness of breath, and tiredness. In certain cases, it can also induce changes in the size of the organ and the weak lungs. If left untreated, it can end up being fatal to your dog. Lack of exercise may also be a source of anorexia, which is why exercise has become so crucial to your puppy. They will likely burn calories at the same amount of consumption to maintain balance. Short Life Span If you consistently underfed your Boxer puppy during its stage of growth, it will most likely grow into an undernourished and extremely unhealthy boxer, with far less engagement and energy than most other boxers. This could also affect his life span. Since Boxers are muscular dogs with a reasonable level of activity, they do need a constant supply of nutrients as described above, otherwise, they will not accompany you for a long time. Recap Boxer puppies need great care and consideration when it comes to their diet since they have some particular and unique dietary needs compared to other dogs with the same level of activity. What to Avoid when feeding your Boxer Puppy? There are no grains at all. Until ultimate research has been completed, play it safe and offer kibble with some level of healthy grain unless otherwise recommended by the veterinarian Boxer Pup must be on a specific grain-free diet, etc. Another one is synthetic preservatives, which could certainly be toxic. Artificial Coloring Ingredients, Blue 02, Yellow 05, and 06 are the most common types of dyes that we can find in feeding formulas that cause behavioral problems in puppies. Additional taste enhancers like MSG, which is one of the worst taste enhancers, are linked to anxiety, stress, rapid heartbeat, and respiratory problems. Fillers are inexpensive additives that are mixed into dog food to pump it up but have little or no nutrient properties. A dog could eat a massive amount of food and yet still be hungry again shortly after. Because of that fast metabolism function, this has become one of the major causes of Coprophagies eating feces. By-products — There are animal parts such as some intestines that are not suitable even for a boxer. Consumption and feeding formulas that involve such food might cause troubles with spinal tissue, lung failure, spleen removal, issues in hooves and tails and undeveloped ovum, etc. In general, the males are bigger and heavier and the females are lighter. During growth spurts , your puppy needs more food, so it will be likely to need more food during its fastest growing time and you can reduce that as growth levels off. Every dog is different, so monitor your puppy. If it looks a little too fat, reduce its food a little. If it looks too thin, increase it. The most accurate way to judge feeding would be to look at calories vs weight. You can weigh your puppy by picking it up and stepping onto the scale. It is! But individual factors like metabolism will also come into play. But as his teeth begin to emerge, momma dog will want to get the weaning process underway, and it will be up to you to help. During her break, soften up some kibble in water or puppy milk formula and place a pan of the mixture within easy reach of the puppies. Show them the mix by putting them in front of the pan. Expect a mess. Set mealtimes for three to four times a day at first. After six months of age, your Boxer puppies are ready to move to feeds twice to three times a day. Keep feeding times regular. Like all little ones, puppies thrive on routine. Take any unfinished food away after the meal. Adult Boxers are prone to bloat which can be deadly. So, although most adult dogs can be fed once a day, it can be dangerous for Boxers. Twice-daily feeds are the best solution. And, if you want to be extra-careful, choose a slow-feeder bowl. No matter how good your Boxer puppy feeding chart is, you may find that there are times when your Boxer puppy needs extra food to thrive. Top times for this are between the ages of three and six months. A sudden growth spurt means a need for extra food to fuel it so that your puppy can develop a healthy body. An adult Boxer may be fine on just three cups of a good brand of kibble every day — but a puppy may need more! But just as there are individual factors that mean some puppies eat more than others, adult dogs vary too. But you might still find that the amount you feed needs to be adjusted beyond that. After all, all that bouncing around is fuelled by food, so a bouncy Boxer may need more food than its lazier cousins. Even among Boxers, you will find different activity levels, and that may mean a need to adjust feeding. For example, as your Boxer ages, he does tend to slow down. The important thing to understand is that their hormonal changes can slow metabolism — the rate at which they burn food. Pregnant And Nursing Boxer Females If you are caring for a pregnant or nursing Boxer female, you need to up the stakes on her nutrition. Puppy food is recommended for pregnant and nursing females. We recommend taking your female Boxer for a checkup once you know she is pregnant, and this will be a great time to get some feeding tips from a veterinarian. However, you can also get a good indication just by looking and feeling. When viewed from above, your Boxer should have a nice, nipped in waist. Next, look at the ribcage. You should not see individual ribs sticking out, but you should be able to feel them beneath the skin. What To Do If Your Dog Seems Under Or Overweight If your dog is suddenly gaining weight despite eating recommended amounts, do remember that thyroid problems are fairly common in boxers and have it checked out. And, of course, when it comes to puppies, they can get a bit skinny during rapid growth and may need a bit extra just because of that. When you know weight and height, you can compare that to age-appropriate breed standards. Remember that your Boxer, both puppy and adult, needs much more than food and water. They need you! Love, affection, play, and company are things that Boxers not only thrive on, but absolutely need. Enjoy your puppy! I fell in love with the breed around ten years ago after seeing some of my friends adopt a Bully. I love the combination of the muscular physique and calm, loyal companionship that the American Bully breed has to offer. My enthusiasm for the breed has led me to train as a dog behavioralist and trainer. Over the last ten years, I have supported many households in raising their American Bully and maximizing the potential of the breed. Recent Posts.

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He was adopted from a local animal control facility 4 years ago and was an amazing companion over the last few years. His owner kept him up to date on vet care and preventatives so Bruce is in great health and is turn key ready for his next adventure. Bruce has done exceedingly well under our care and impressed us as well as our dog trainers in his obedience and commands. He sits, shakes, knows down, and does not jump on his humans. While large at 80 lbs, he gets along amazingly well with both large and small dogs and has been socialized with both. He loves toys, playing tug of war, and just being around people and other dogs. He has not shown any aggression towards cats but did not reside with cats so a careful introduction would be required. Bruce adores children of all ages and has proven to be a wonderful, loyal, and adaptable boy. He has handled the stress associated with an abrupt life change like a champ and we absolutely adore him! Bruce has a beautiful coat and a unique blue spot in one of his eyes. He requires no training, possesses no bad habits, and is patiently waiting for his freedom ride! We're open Wednesday - Sunday 12 - 5 p. This includes developing conditioned or automatic reflexes to commands. In its simplest form after proper conditioning , when the owner says "sit," the dog automatically sits without thinking about it. Our unique techniques ensure our program is a success no matter what behavior we encounter. Empowering Owners We empower Owners to train so their dog knows who to obey at all times. Personalized We deal with problem behaviors on a personal basis. Environment Specific We train wherever issues tend to arise i. Supportive We support Owners in the off-hours when training is "not in session". Involved We work with all members of the household. Satisfaction Ratings Our high client satisfaction rating sets us apart from competitors. Our Dog Training Process in Cleveland, TN One of our local dog trainers will come to your Cleveland home to meet with you and your dog, assess any issues and strengths and help you select a personalized program that will best suit you both. We will then demonstrate one of our trained dogs to help you better understand our dog training techniques and the results they produce. A Dog Training Elite Chattanooga graduate will behave both at home and in distracting environments due to our multi-environmental approach and the results will be lasting if the owner remains a key player in the training process. A dog signed up for one of our programs is a part of the Dog Training Elite Chattanooga family for life. Our Cleveland, TN dog trainers are known for their ongoing and exceptional support given to owners. We believe in what we do and want to instill confidence in both owners and their dogs. Request your Cleveland, TN dog training demo today! We help your dog become a valued companion and beloved member of the family. Read what our customers have to say and then give us a call! Dog Training Elite has been training my son's dog to be a service dog since we got her when she was 2 months old. Rod is so patient with our dog, very kind and communicates with you all of the time. He is very interested in how well your dog is doing with the training on days we do not meet. He is a very professional dog trainer, the best of the best. You won't regret using him. We are VERY thankful for the work and time he gives to us for our dog. You will be able to find all their current contact information, as well as a link to their website, so you can see what puppies they currently have available for sale. We provide you with all this information so that you can research each breeder individually and find the one that has your perfect puppy available! If you are considering getting a German Shepherd, you'll want to check out the incredible book "The Complete Guide to German Shepherds". It's written in an easy-to-understand way but still has the expert knowledge to help any new owner successfully raise their GSD from puppy to old-age. It's widely available, so pick up a copy if you see one, here is the link to grab one on Amazon, or you can download the audiobook version here. If you can't find the perfect German Shepherd puppy in your state, try checking at your local animal shelter or rescue organization. Many German Shepherds young and old need a loving home and adopting one can be a great way to save a life. We are so happy that you have chosen Local Puppy Breeders to help you find the puppy of your dreams. In addition to visiting us often here, you can check us out on Facebook , Twitter , and Pinterest for more information, pictures, and videos!

Your dog may suffer from indigestion if they are fed too late at night. A Boxer may struggle to acquire weight at times. Having three meals each day, including snacks, can help during this time. Adult Boxers should be fed in the morning, noon, and evening. Scheduled feeding times should be established early on to prevent weight-related diseases. Adult Boxers on a two-meal diet should eat in the morning and evening. Never let your dog exercise vigorously after a large meal, especially if they eat rapidly. This prevents bloating , intestinal obstruction, and other serious digestive problems. Introduce fewer carbs and consider nourishing their intestines and giving them micronutrients that help fight off disease-causing microorganisms. The following is a top-notch selection of Boxer food: Dry Food: Your best bet is to feed your Boxer dog grain-free kibble or dry kibble. Some even advocate dog food with human-grade ingredients. High-quality kibble containing animal protein formulated specifically for the growth and development of lean muscle mass in Boxers. Wet Food: Wet food is another commercial dog food option. If you want raw feeding for your Boxer, be sure to consult a veterinarian first, as raw diets can be tricky to prepare. Home-Cooked Diet: Aside from raw food, you can feed your Boxer home-cooked food as well. Always get your meat and other ingredients from reputable butchers and merchants to avoid potential problems. There are benefits and drawbacks to each of these dog food options mentioned above. But, for the most part, these are the best food options for the Boxer. If you are in doubt, seek the advice of an animal nutritionist or veterinarian. However, Boxers are susceptible to skin allergies caused by these products. To have a grain-free diet for your dog, you should look out for ingredients like brown rice, wheat, corn, and barley. Chocolate: While chocolate is a delicious treat for us humans, it can be harmful to your Boxer. The stimulants in chocolates, known as methylxanthines , make them toxic for dogs. It could be fatal if your dog has consumed cocoa powder, cocoa butter, or cooking chocolate. Fatty Meals: Pancreatitis outbreaks in dogs can be blamed on fatty meals. A veterinarian should always be consulted before feeding a dog a new diet. Call a veterinarian immediately if you believe that your Boxer dog has consumed something hazardous. Some dogs may have stomach upset and even appetite loss if you suddenly switch to a new high-quality food or diet. This shift should occur within a five- to seven-day time window. American Kennel Club AKC advocates starting with 25 percent of the new food for your Boxer and gradually increasing it until all of the old food has been replaced with fresh food, based on the same ratio. Below is a table showing what the AKC recommends as a standard diet transition plan for most dog breeds, including Boxers: Day. Your vet can run the necessary tests and examine your puppy to determine the cause. Male Adult male Boxers are slightly larger than females. Males weigh an average of 60 to 70 pounds, requiring 3 to 5 cups of food. This weight range requires 2 to 4 cups of food per day. On top of a caloric increase, an active Boxer will also need a protein-rich diet to feed their muscles. A protein-friendly, calorie-dense dry kibble should be offered, and you should follow the instructions based on their weight. Image Credit: boxerdogmadness, Pixabay Sedentary Boxers tend to become overweight quickly if you overfeed them—blame their voracious appetites and love for snacking. This food offers a low-calorie alternative without skipping out on necessary nutrition. However, what really happens is that it decreases their metabolism rate, slowing their energy. This slowing process can cause weight gain if you continue to feed them the same amount of food. The puppies always get the nutrients first. So, if you have a food that is lacking in certain areas, the mother will suffer. Image Credit: Pixel-Shot, Shutterstock Boxer Feeding Guide for Seniors Just like puppyhood has special dietary requirements when dogs reach a certain age, so does old age. Seniors need to eat foods that cater to their life stage to keep them capable, happy, and healthy for their remaining years. A Boxer transitions into the senior category, usually around 6—9 years of age. If you have your dog on dog food for all life stages, it might be appropriate to continue this diet. A lower-calorie food will also help to prevent your dog from becoming overweight. If your senior has specific health issues, it might be best to feed them a specific diet that helps with their condition. As time goes on, you can work with your vet to accommodate their special dietary needs. It is formulated specifically for later years. Some dogs have voracious appetites that are never satisfied. It seems like you barely get it into the bowl before they suck it up like a vacuum cleaner. Free-Feeding—this practice involves making food available to your dog at all times. The danger with this method is that large dogs like Boxers are susceptible to bloat, or gastric dilation-volvulus GDV. Bloat happens when the dog eats too quickly, causing gas to fill the abdomen. It can be fatal. This method can also make overeating seem like the norm, which causes bad manners. Feeding your dog smaller, more frequent meals is a better alternative to free-feeding. Slow-Feeder Bowls—a great way to slow your pooch down, allowing them to digest their food properly, is to give them food in a slow feeder. It gives your Boxer unique designs to eat around, stimulating their mental curiosity while slowing them down. What Foods Are Bad for Boxers? Some things to look out for are: Corn. Every bite of food will be detrimental or beneficial to this breed's health. Overview Food is fuel both for a growing Boxer pup and large strong adult Boxer dogs. The type of food that you offer for both meals and snacks has a direct affect on your Boxer's health both now and in the future. Also of importance is a feeding schedule and making sure that you offer the proper amounts. This section will cover everything you need to know in order to provide a well-balanced, nutritious diet for your Boxer puppy, adult, or senior. How Often to Feed a Boxer Puppy or Dog Let's look at a summary and then the details: Puppies under 12 weeks: free-fed Puppies and up to the 2-year mark: 3 meals per day Adults 2 years and up: 1 to 2 meals per day Young pups 8 to 12 weeks old: Very young pups, and particularly those that are a bit underweight, should be free-fed for at least the first month at their new home. This is the method of having fresh food accessible at all times. For a pup still trying to gain their bearings, you may need to lead them to their bowl throughout the day. Note that food should be thrown out and the bowl washed and then refilled several times per day as opposed to just topping off the food since pups may not be interested in stale food. Growing pup to 2 year mark: It's best to get a Boxer onto a feeding schedule as soon as possible. Schedules of anything feeding, exercise, sleep time, etc. Young Boxers often struggle a bit to fill out and during the 1 to 2-year mark Boxers can go through a 'skinny phase', so 3 meals per day, plus snacks, can work well during this time. Adults 2 years and up: Most adult Boxers that have reached their final adult weight and height do well with 2 meals per day, plus snacks. If snacks are regular and of substance, a Boxer may be perfectly content with 1 main meal per day. Note that this breed is prone to bloat, so you want to avoid letting a Boxer get so hungry that he rapidly gulps his food down. If that is the case, increase the frequency of meals or use a slow-feed bowl; stainless-steel is best, something like Mr. How Much to Feed a Boxer Puppy or Dog The exact serving size that is appropriate for each Boxer varies and depends mainly on age and current weight but also is affected by activity level, health status, type of food wet vs dry , and individual metabolism. This said, there are general guidelines: Puppies usually require about 55 calories for each pound of body weight. Young pups might eat a bit over a cup a day, older pups can eat up to 3 cups a day. Adults need fewer calories per pound of body weight than their younger counterparts, about .Depending on an adult Boxer dog's size, food is usually in the 3 to 5 cup per day range. To know exactly how much to give your Boxer, know your dog's weight. Don't guess since that can be wildly off. Then, look at the feeding guidelines on the bag of kibble; these are listed by age and weight and are usually pretty spot on. Dry Kibble vs Wet Canned Though many Boxers may prefer wet canned food, dry kibble is better to maintain healthy teeth and gum and a strong jaw. You'll still have to provide some level of at-home dental care , but the crunch of a hard kibble will work to some extent to remove plaque. Additionally, dry food seems to keep the stools firmer and healthier. If your Boxer is a finicky eater and balks at dry food, try mixing in just a bit of canned stick with the same brand or add just a bit of water or low-sodium chicken or beef broth. Grain vs Grain-free It's wasn't that long ago that putting a dog on a grain-free diet wasn't much of a big deal. Some grains, especially those with gluten, can cause excessive gas , upset stomach, and other issues. And, some dogs are allergic to wheat or gluten which can manifest as itching and other skin problems. But recently, a suspected link between certain grain-free dog foods and dilated cardiomyopathy DCM, a canine heart disease caused veterinary experts to take pause. And, since Boxers are one of the breeds prone to DCM, it's important to understand where things are on this. Though it was first thought that any grain-free diet may be the cause, the current thought is that it is a BEG diet, meaning boutique small specialty brands that have exotic meats non-traditional meats like alligator, kangaroo, bison, venison, etc. Many more studies need to be done for conclusive answers to be found. For now, it is recommended to offer healthy grains and this can be done while avoiding gluten if your Boxer has an issue with it. Navigating the Many Choices of Dog Foods What to Avoid: Many brands are guilty of having at least one of these elements that you do not want your Boxer's food to have: No grains at all. Until conclusive studies are complete, play it safe and offer a kibble with some level of healthy grains unless the veterinarian recommends otherwise Boxer needs to be on a specific grain-free diet, etc. Synthetic preservatives. These can be toxic. Butylated hydroxyanisole BHA , butylated hydroxytoluene BHT , and ethoxyquin, just to name a few, are linked to behavioral issues, organ damage, and some forms of cancer. Artificial coloring. Common dyes like Yellow 5 and 6 and Blue 2 are linked to behavioral and health issues. Artificial flavor enhancers. MSG is one of the worst, it is linked to anxiety, rapid heartbeat, and breathing issues. Generic animal digest, meats, oils, or fats. When anything is listed as 'animal', it is derived from a 4-D animal: dead, dying, diseased or disabled animals and can literally be any meat from any animal at all: minks from mink farms, roadkill, zoo animals, expired meats from supermarkets and butcher shops, etc. Fillers are cheap ingredients that are put into dog food to bulk it up but they have little to no nutritional value. The 'food' goes right through their system; a dog will eat but be hungry again soon afterward and this is one cause of coprophagia eating feces. These are the animal parts that are not fit for human consumption and includes such things as spinal tissue, lungs, spleens, hooves, tails, undeveloped eggs, etc. Made outside North America since meats from overseas can be questionable. The kibble will be preserved using a vitamin blend often listed as mixed tocopherals and will be naturally flavored and colored. Some level of grains. Grains that are generally well-tolerated include rice, oatmeal, and quinoa. Wholesome real meats, veggies, and fruits. Some ingredients sourced from Norway are fine; this country has very strict guidelines. If you are not sure what is in your Boxer's food, investigate it. Know about grain content and the presence or lack of additives and subpar ingredients. Recommended Dog Food for Boxers Please note that the following recommendations are formulas with some level of healthy grains; if you did not read the previous ' Grain vs Grain-free ' you may wish to do so before continuing on. This meets all of the requirements of what you're looking for. There are no synthetic preservatives; vitamins are used instead shown as mixed tocopherals. The grains in this formula are generally very well tolerated: quinoa technically a seed , oatmeal, and barley. There are 3 different recipes to choose from: beef, chicken, or lamb. Other ingredients include peas, salmon, carrots, apples, blueberries, and flaxseed. There are good levels of glucosamine chondroitin vital for joint health , antioxidants, and omega fatty acids important for skin and coat health. There are no by-products, fillers, or generic meats or oils and this is sourced and made in the USA. For this one, the base is chicken a very classic tasty protein that most dogs love , along with oatmeal, brown rice, ground barley, peas, flaxseed, carrots, tomato pomace, spinach, sweet potatoes, apples, and blueberries. All other ingredients shown on the label are either vitamins and minerals or natural preservatives. This has no wheat, corn, soy, meat by-products, artificial flavors, colors or preservatives, and this is made in the USA. This brand offers a top-quality formula that is gluten-free. There is no wheat, corn, soy, by-products, artificial flavors, artificial colors, or chemical preservatives. The base is chicken and brown rice and other ingredients include white rice, oatmeal, rice bran, avocado, flax seed, herring, and kelp. It has good levels of omega fatty acids and antioxidants. The one trade-off for having it be gluten-free is that it does not contain any fruit; however, it does have all required vitamins and minerals and you can always offers a small amount of fresh fruit as snacks. Homemade Vs Commercial Commercial dog food is convenient and, if you choose a superior brand, it will ensure that your Boxer receives all needed nutrients and is on a well-rounded and well-balanced diet. And, home cooked food gives you complete control over what your Boxer eats and does not eat and can be tweaked to satisfy a finicky eater. So, there are pros and cons to each. Whether you opt for a top-quality kibble or you use good cuts of meat and fish and fresh produce in homemade meals, neither option is super-cheap. Because, of course, you get what you pay for. But, if you buy in bulk and lean toward frozen vegetables and fruits, home cooking may be a bit less expensive. That said, when you prepare meals at home, you'll need to offer a good daily vitamin and mineral supplement even good brands of kibble need to add this in because it's nearly impossible for a dog to receive all nutrients just from food alone. Some of the foods that can be incorporated into meals include: Proteins: Chicken, turkey, veal, beef, fish mackeral, haddock, salmon, whitefish, cod, and others , eggs, and certain beans kidney, lima Vegetables: Carrots, broccoli in moderation , potato, sweet potato, sugar snap peas, green beans, spinach Fruits: Blueberries, raspberries, strawberries, pumpkin Grains: Quinoa, oatmeal, rice Related Articles: Best Snacks, Chews, and Treats for a Boxer - A great rundown of the difference between these 3 things and top recommendations. How many calories does a Boxer dog need - Requirements based on age, size and activity level. Recommendations to lower or raise intake. Boxer dog weight issues - This breed can become overweight, usually due to a combination of eating too much and being sedentary. Boxer begging behavior - Boxers are pretty good at playing their humans and it's easy to fall into the trap of giving in to begging. Read how to stop the cycle. Choosing the Best Bowl for a Boxer - Size, height, material and design are all important. And, I'll go out on a limb to say I bet those early Boxers ate dog food with less additives and fillers than found in today's formulas. That is of course, unless you're armed with information on sourcing the best possible modern foods for feeding Boxer dogs! Adult Boxer dogs require 1, to 2, calories of good quality dog food per day depending on age and activity, with an averagely active adult dog somewhere midrange. Being a muscular breed that is highly active, Boxers require quality protein in food at a slightly higher level than many less active breeds. Credence should be given to invest in a quality kibble dog food with high protein and caloric value or go with a Raw Dog Diet , especially for active Boxers. Bloat Concerns This breed is prone to bloat, Gastric Dilatation-Volvulus , so grain free kibble and raw diets are a great option for feeding Boxer dogs. Carbohydrate and fat levels are less a concern when feeding Boxer dogs, yet Boxers are know to put on extra weight rather easily. Low carbohydrate diets should be fed to overweight dogs and the breed ideally should be slim, stocky and muscular. To learn how we choose quality kibble formulas, or for help selecting your own, visit our Feeding Dry Dog Food section. For a great alternative to kibble and food we highly recommend for Boxer dogs, visit our Raw Feeding Dogs section. Supplements As with any medium to large breed dog, providing a food that includes supplements adds additional insurance towards good health. To maintain your Boxer's joint health, foods containing chondroitin and glucosamine are awesome. If your kibble doesn't include these compounds, they can be supplemented separately with a product such a Cosequin. For a shiny coat and to promote skin health, foods with Omega-6 fatty acids are wonderful. For control of inflammation or arthritis pain in older Boxer dogs, support the heart, kidneys and stabilize overall mood, Omega-3 fatty acids are great to see on an ingredients panel. Just like Cosequin however, Omegas can be fed separately and as needed by simply squeezing a gel capsule over your Boxer's meal. In summary, feeding Boxer dogs about 2. Amount fed may go up or down based on your dog's size, weight, age and overall daily activity. Feeding Boxer Dog Puppies Quality formulated all life stages food and several small meals a day for a Boxer dog puppy. Your Boxer puppy will grow rapidly through the first six to eight months. Similar to any medium or large breed puppy that is susceptible to bone growth issues like hip dysplasia, feeding a quality all life stages, large breed puppy formula, or Raw Dog Food diet will help regulate growth. Boxer puppies can eat! Two to three regulated servings per day is recommended, do not free freed. There's an unwritten rule in among Boxer enthusiasts to feed at least twice as much food daily that your puppy would eat as an adult, In multiple regulated servings. Begin by following feeding guidelines per the label provided on your chosen Kibble Dog Food Formula. Increase or decrease the amount fed by assessing your Boxer's body weight and energy as he or she grows. From age 6 to 8 months on, the rapid growth phase should cease and while still technically a puppy, your Boxer can be transitioned to an adult diet. This includes higher protein foods yet many who were already feeing an all life stages formula can continue with the same. As always with both puppies and adult Boxers, keep an eye on your dog's weight. You should always see a trace of the last rib with this breed and they should appear slim, yet muscular. Adjust amount fed per serving accordingly to maintain that perfect Boxer appearance. And lastly, with all dog breeds that are prone to bloat, feeding Boxer dogs several small meals a day is a safer bet than free feeding, or one HUGE serving! Don't forget to check out our Feeding Dry Dog Food articles which focus on selecting a quality kibble for your Boxer dog. And, if there's another mid-size dog in your pack, Feeding Medium Size Dogs provides access to a library of breed specific feeding guides. For help choosing kibble dog food for your Boxer Dog plus additional info about raw feeding, visit our Homepage for quick banner access to the major sections of our website! Boxer Puppy kibbles are designed with an exclusive shape and size to make it easy for the Boxer puppy to pick up and chew. Guaranteed Analysis Crude Protein min. Ingredients Chicken by-product meal, brewers rice, oat groats, brown rice, chicken fat, wheat gluten, pork meal, natural flavors, dried plain beet pulp, fish oil, pea fiber, vegetable oil, coconut oil, sodium silico aluminate, potassium chloride, monocalcium phosphate, calcium carbonate, psyllium seed husk, fructooligosaccharides, sodium tripolyphosphate, vitamins [DL-alpha tocopherol acetate source of vitamin E , niacin supplement, L-ascorbylpolyphosphate source of vitamin C , D-calcium pantothenate, biotin, pyridoxine hydrochloride vitamin B6 , riboflavin supplement, thiamine mononitrate vitamin B1 , vitamin A acetate, folic acid, vitamin B12 supplement, vitamin D3 supplement], hydrolyzed yeast source of betaglucans , salt, DL-methionine, L-lysine, choline chloride, glucosamine hydrochloride, marigold extract Tagetes erecta L. Daily Feeding Recommendations.

But, unfortunately, there are so many organisations only in it for the money, charging exorbitant prices and neglecting the health and wellbeing of their puppies and dogs. One of the most obvious signs of an unethical breeder is the poor or neglectful treatment of their puppies and breeding dogs. An ethical labradoodle breeder in Australia will; Strive to find the right home for their puppies. Instead, they go above and beyond to make sure they find the perfect home for each puppy. Usually, the search involves asking potential buyers a range of questions about their home and lifestyle, so they can pair families with a puppy that has a temperament right for them. Provide the highest quality care and living conditions. Ethical breeders ensure that both the puppies and breeding dogs have premium quality care, including comprehensive health checks, socialisation, and training. Rehome adult dogs. Once the female is retired, she is de-sexed and either adopted by our internal staff or a loving family. Never separate the puppies early. Puppies Downunder waits until the puppy is ten weeks old before we allow them to join their new family. Meet and exceed all the necessary requirements. We comply with all codes and requirements set by the Domestic Animal Act, actively assist with inspections of our facilities, and have received approval from the Chief Veterinary Officer of Victoria to operate as a Commercial Breeder and the Minister for Agriculture. The breeder should be asking plenty of questions. A puppy is a long-term commitment, so ethical breeders ask plenty of questions to make sure the buyer is the right fit for the puppy. Here are a few examples of questions you can expect to hear; How much space do you have? Will you be home often? How often will you exercise the dog? Do you have kids? Do you have other animals? Where will the puppy sleep? They should encourage you to visit the breeding facility. When looking for Australian labradoodle puppies for sale, you need to make sure the breeder will allow you to inspect the facility and meet the parents. You can also ensure the dogs and puppies are raised in clean, high-quality conditions by visiting the facility. The Puppies Downunder team understands that not everyone can come and visit our facility, so we have plenty of photos of both the breeding facility, puppies, and dogs online. The breeder should try and find out the address the puppy will be living, the details of the new veterinarian, and any other relevant information needed to ensure the puppy is being well looked after. Your breeder should have organised the first two vaccinations, microchipping and worming and parasite prevention, before going home with their new family. At Puppies Downunder, we go above and beyond, providing a complete medical history. We also provide you with information about their individual dietary requirements, socialisation, registration, medications, and required vaccinations. An excellent ethical breeder should be vetting potential buyers to find the right family for that specific puppy. Is the puppy cheeky? How much exercise does the dog need? Unfortunately, a lot of unethical breeders will understate or flat out lie when telling buyers how much exercise their new puppy will need. For example, people looking for a labradoodle for sale in Australia might be told they have a moderate activity level, which is accurate. However, they may be given the same advice for bordoodle, which is wildly inaccurate for this high-energy, restless dog. Can you provide references? The breeder should be able to provide you with references from a veterinarian and previous customers. We offer lifelong support. At Puppies Downunder, we continue to provide support for our customers throughout the lifetime of their puppy. Do they offer a guarantee? At Puppies Downunder, we provide a health guarantee for the first 21 days of sale. Do they provide the essentials to give the puppy the best start to life? Dogs are our passion, and we dedicate 24 hours a day, seven days a week, to their care. In fact, we have the highest ethical standards of any dog breeder globally. We absolutely adore mini labradoodles, and we take advantage of any opportunity to share our love of them with others. What Is A Mini Labradoodle? Their beautiful, calm temperament and high intelligence make mini labradoodles ideal candidates for therapy pets and service dogs for individuals with autism, PTSD, diabetes, and other disabilities. How big do they grow? A mini labradoodle will typically grow to cm in height and around kg in weight, so they stay relatively small. From elderly couples to families with small children, the mini labradoodle will fit right in. Do mini labradoodles shed? That all depends on their coat. If a mini labradoodle has a wool coat, the tight curls will catch any dander, fur, and dirt, thereby minimising shedding and reducing allergies. However, wool coats are high-maintenance and require brushing every day. It all depends on the type of coat your mini labradoodle has. Fleece and hair coats are very low maintenance, but wool coats are pretty high-maintenance. They have a pretty moderate level of activity, and they enjoy minutes of exercise per day as well as playtime and mental enrichment. Are there any health concerns we should keep an eye out for? Mini labradoodles are a crossbreed, so they have very diverse genetics making them less likely to develop genetic diseases. They may also develop hip or elbow dysplasia if over-exercised or overfed. Labradoodles have adorable long ears, but this means they are prone to dirty ears and ear infections, do their ears need to be checked regularly. From birth to 8 weeks, puppies benefit from valuable socialisation time with their siblings and mother. However, not crate training your puppy may be doing more harm than good. We suggest introducing your puppy to their crate throughout their first day, enticing them with treats and making sure they associate the space with positivity. Open the crate door throughout the day, so your puppy can retreat to their safe space whenever they feel the need. Make sure your puppy has a separate area to go to the bathroom at night. Puppies Downunder are an ethical mini labradoodle breeder, and we take great pride in our high-quality breeding facilities and our commitment to providing a safe, comfortable home for our dogs. They have incredibly high intelligence and need to be kept mentally stimulated; otherwise, they can become bored, stubborn, and destructive. Dogs with high intelligence love a challenge, and they love working for their food. You can either purchase puzzle or interactive feeders such as snuffle mats or Kong toys, or you can create your own DIY slow feeder bowl. We suggest having a few different puzzles in varying difficulty levels, so your puppy is always mentally stimulated at dinner time. The labrador retriever in your labradoodle will have an instinct to retrieve, and the poodle side will have an instinct to hunt, so try to incorporate these traits into games. Silicone licking mats are a fantastic way to keep your dog entertained. Smear some peanut butter, wet food, or baby food on the mat and pop it into the freezer. Once frozen, get it out and give it to your puppy to lick for a refreshing summer treat. You can buy or make plenty of toys that encourage your puppy to solve a problem before receiving treats as a reward. For example, grab a muffin tray, some treats, and some tennis balls. Put treats in a couple of the openings and block them all with tennis balls. Your dog will need to snuffle and work out which balls have treats underneath. Cut a slot in the bottle and fill it with food or treats, and let your dog bat it around to get the treats out. Dogs who are allowed to sniff and explore on their walk are far more stimulated than dogs that just walk. Dogs are our passion, and we dedicate 24 hours a day, seven days a week to their care. Labradoodle Puppy. They were originally bred as a hypoallergenic service dog. Labradoodles are usually medium to large in size at around cm and range in weight from 10kgs to 40kgs depending on the size of the parents. This means they do require regular exercise but running around the yard or a daily 30 minute walk will suffice. As labradoodle parents are of different breeds they can vary in appearance. One of the popular attributes is their low shedding coats. They can range in colour and their coat type can vary from a curly to wavy dense coat. The Labradoodle has a life expectancy of years. They are highly intelligent and social dogs so with obedience training at a young age will be a great addition to the family. Labradoodles are very popular as they have low shedding hair and tend to be great for people with allergies. The coats do require regular brushing and grooming otherwise they may become mated and uncomfortable. They are bred to minimise possible genetic diseases from both parents and to ensure healthier pups. Enquire about a Puppy Use the form below to enquire about a specific puppy, or if you have your heart set on an exact color or sex we don't have, tell us about it so we can do our best to help find it for you. All puppies have been raised here indoors until weeks of age where they then make their way to the outdoor nursery for further development. These puppies coming through will be the last from us due to retirement. Regardless that we are retiring we will still be here to answer any future questions for the lifetime of your puppy — we will only be a phone call or email away. Both puppies will have wonderful outgoing natures and are raised with our adult dogs and well socialised during their 8 weeks here with us. Like all our past Krakajak puppies they will bring you many years of joy, love and laughter. For further information please email me sarahhum westnet. Our lovely pooches are first and foremost our family pets. They are regularly groomed here at home and are taught to swim so they can join us in the pool during summer months. Our puppies are born and raised in our home up until they reach weeks of age where they are then moved into the puppy play area where they can begin to learn and explore their big wide world. When you purchase a puppy from KrakaJak Labradoodles you do so knowing that comprehensive DNA testing has guided us to select the parents of your puppy in the hope that they will lead a long and healthy life as a valued member of your family. Krakajak Labradoodles breed Australian Labradoodle puppies with beautiful non-shedding coats in colours of Red, Apricot, Cream, Caramel, Chocolate, and Black; other colors and patterns available on occasion. We look forward to continuing our journey working with and promoting this fabulous breed of dog. Sharing the joy of owning a Labradoodle. Like both their parents, these dogs are smart, friendly and fairly active. Can we meet in person? Have they been socialised? They are highly intelligent, super friendly and easy to train. We have a perfect litter of 5 Labradoodle pups. Both parents have been DNA tested and cleared of any genetic diseases. Mum is our much loved family dog. Dad is a handsome stud red moyen poodle. They will be low shedding and roughly labrador height or smaller. They have been raised in a country family environment in the beautiful Macedon Ranges. They are also crate trained and have started toilet training. The have grown up with children playing with them, 3 adult dogs and already use a doggy door. Our puppies are lovingly raised by our family as well as their mums up to the day they leave for their new forever homes. Puppies will be vet health checked, vaccinated and microchipped at 6 weeks of age. They have been wormed regularly. We can also assist with interstate travel arrangement if required. Will not reply to generic messages. Don't message me wanting me to email you. Mature kilos. References available. Video calls welcomed. Pictures of pups, siblings. Microchipped and vaccinated. She's such a pleasure and has brought me so much joy so far. I've had smart dogs b4 like a Belgian shephard and a border collie, but she is the most intelligent dog by far. You did such a fantastic job and have her the best start in life and it really shows how much time and love you put into your puppies. So thank you for that. I'm so grateful for her. She loves to play indoor soccer and dance with me that's with two legs! He loves to fetch, find and jump. They are my pets. Both DNA tested and cleared of genetic diseases by Orivet. Results are available. Puppies are wormed at 2, 4, 6, 8 weeks, and then monthly. They are raised indoor. They will grow up to be large dogs between kg, cm tall. They are playful, affectionate, friendly, loyal, and intelligent. Crate and potty mat training commenced at 3 weeks old. At 7 weeks old, they have learnt to sit and wait for me to say "eat". They receive daily hugs and kisses, and physical and mental stimulations. Fed Advance or Black Hawk kibble. Fleece coat with low shedding. Coat colour may change as they age. Each come with a toy, blanket, and a bag of kibble. Please call only. Happy to do Facetime, Google Meet, or Zoom. Hau Labradoodle puppies for sale I have seven F1 Labradoodle puppies looking for their forever homes. Labradoodle puppies are a great option for those who suffer from allergies as they shed much less hair than most other dogs. DOB: 16th June puppies will be ready to go to new homes from 12th August, Both parents have had full breed specific DNA testing through Orivet and are cleared for passing on any congenital conditions. Reports are avaliable upon request. Dad, a Standard Poodle weighs approx. Puppies are expected to reach somewhere in between once fully grown. Girls will be on the smaller side. Mum and Dad are family pets and are available for viewing upon request. Happy to assist with pet transport interstate if required additional charges apply Please contact me to arrange a time to come and meet these beautiful treasures. I am a member of the Responsible Pet Breeders Australia-my membership number is .Our puppies have non shedding and allergy friendly coats that are easy care for. Please phone send me a message or email discholl icloud. We are happy ,playful healthy dogs,we are family dogs ,very friendly and easy to train due to blood line of Labrador in the breed. I want to make sure these puppies are going to good family home where they will be treated like family member. For more information please contact me and we can organise to inspect the dogs. Both parents are Orivet-tested F1 Labradoodles clear of genetic diseases - affectionate, intelligent, loyal and active family pets both looove playing fetch and weigh just under 18kg. They also share life with a 10yo Rhodesian Ridgeback. The pups are well socialised already and accustomed to all the usual happenings around the home mowing, blower, etc and other dogs. Non-shedding, sweet and playful! Mother is a Labradoodle, father is a Groodle. Standard size between kg. Both male and female pups are still available. Bred in our family home, lots of love, cuddles, and playtime. All puppies will have had de-worming, microchipping, and vaccinations up to date. Looking for loving families, price negotiable to a suitable home. Laura Cooper Gojo I was gifted a this puppy but due to how busy I am, I would like to find him a new home that will care for him and give him the attention he deserves. I will provide the toys, lead and collar I have already brought him Sebastian Brown Double Doodle Groodle x Labradoodle pups 8 weeks Boho Oodles has 2 beautiful Double Doodle Groodle x Labradoodle female puppies ready for their fur-ever homes. They can be collected from Brisbane or transported interstate additional cost. She is very sweet and affectionate and would be great for a family with small children or someone looking for a companion. She will be ready for her home mid Sept after she has completed 28 days of puppy training. Please enquire if you'd like more information on what it means to be a Boho Guardian family. Looking for forever home. Fun loving family pet great with kids. Minimum shedding. They have been microchipped and vet checked. Vaccinated and wormed every 2 weeks since birth. Will grow to aprox 15kg. Looking for family home with lots of cuddles. Great loyal companion dogs. Mum is a pure chocolate Labrador and Dad is a pure black standard poodle. Well socialised at home with children, being handled daily. Toileting on puppy pads. They are all vet checked and are in good health. Located in Burpengary, also happy to help with transport. Unlike a multigen, F1 Is the initial cross between a purebred labrador and purebred poodle. F1 labradoodles are usually a low shedding dog. Our dogs: Mabel, our beautiful Dam, is a purebred golden labrador with a loyal, loving and gentle temperament. He boasts gorgeous parti colouring and a sweet and beautiful temperament. Puppies will be medium sized dogs. Available puppies: 1. Black boy 3. Chocolate boy 5. Black boy 7. Black boy Inclusions: Microchipped, wormed, vaccinated. Soft toy, Australian made collar by Native Collars, natural fibre blanket. Puppy growth history and vet report, puppy rearing information. Meet and greet from 4 weeks of age. Mable is a special part of our family and these puppies are handled daily, well socialised and loved. They will be weaned and ready for their new homes on Friday 7th July. Meet and greet available from 8th June. Our puppies will not be desexed. We choose not to desex until 9 months of age due to the important role that hormone production plays in the long term health of a dog. It is our recommendation that you consult your vet to discuss appropriate timing. We are looking for loving, forever homes for these precious pups, matching the puppies personality to you, as they will become part of your family. Please send us a message telling us about yourself and we will be happy to answer any questions. Mum has also been hip and elbow scored. Available in the litter are : 1 x chocolate female, 1 x black male3 x black females. Our puppies are well socialised and handled extensively every day to ensure they make great family members. Pups will be microchipped and vaccinated, as well as flea and worm treated. They will come with a Puppy food pack as well as 6 weeks free Pet Insurance. Ready to go from 17 June. Pickup is in Mudgee NSW, puppies can be transported across Australia through jet pets or I can meet in a surrounding suburb close to Mudgee. Litter of seven large medium to standard size black Cobberdog Labradoodle puppies, as per photos. Remaining pups are ready to go NOW! They were microchipped, vaccinated and health checked including full physical by our vet on .If you believe you can provide a wonderful forever home for one of these beautiful puppies, please message with your email contact details and we'll send you an application form. Application forms need to be completed in full in order for you to be considered. Mum and Dad are our forever pets; we are not in the dog breeding industry. Dad has since been desexed and Mum will be as soon as pups are fully weaned, therefore this is a one and only opportunity to share your home with one of these stunning babies. The pups are being sold as pets only and a desexing contract will be required. They are expected to have fleece coats and mature around 8 - 15kg. Mum is a black labrador and dad is a 5kg black and white parti poodle who carries the dominant curly coat gene which he passes to his pups. We've sourced our dogs from all over Australia, tested their DNA and conduct regular vet testing. We take breeding healthy pups really seriously and spend all our time making sure both pups and parents have the best environment possible. You are welcome to visit and meet the pups or they can be delivered to Canberra airport for interstate travel if required airflight to be organised by buyer. We are an experienced breeder with over 15 yrs of breeding experience. We are also a vet audited member of RPBA which means we have passed very strict and comprehensive criteria for the care of our animals. Our dogs are part of our family. There are lots of pictures on their to show what these pups' siblings have looked like when grown up - We are very proud grandparents! We have medium and small second generation girls and boys. Colours available are red, black and two-toned phantom. Puppies coats will be fleece or wool. Minimal shedding and hypoallergenic. They will go to their new homes vet checked, microchipped, vaccinated, wormed and with a puppy pack. We are located in Port Stephens which is 30 minutes from Newcastle or 90 minutes from Sydney. Please contact us to arrange a visit or FaceTime for interstate buyers. They will be toilet trained on artificial grass. Labradoodles are great for living indoors or outdoors and are very low shedding. They come with a puppy pack including toys, puppy food, blanket with mums scent on it for an easier transition into its new home etc. Will also been socialised with people and other pets to help them with social skills and playtime. We live on 5 acres and have lots of room for parents and puppies to run around and play I can help with organising interstate transport and we do video calls to help you find your perfect furbaby. We are looking for loving homes for our gorgeous puppies where they will get the attention, love and training they need. Please feel free to call or message me for more information, or if you would like addition pictures. We take great pride in producing and providing high quality puppies for families looking for their new furbaby. We are situated on 5 acres and have lots of room for our dogs and puppies to run around amd grow up in. Puppies are all socialised with people and our other pets and different noises to help them adapt to this new world they live in. We offer 6 weeks free Pet Insurance, desexing voucher and a 12 months genetic health guarantee. These puppies will be medium size with very low shedding, this makes them great for any family and also great for indoors. They suit any type of family, older families and even families with younger children. The great thing about Bordoodles is that they can be out and about walking and exercising with you or they are happy to chill out at home. They are the perfect family member. They will be toilet trained on artificial grass and they will come with a puppy pack including toys, food, blanket with mums scent on it for an easier transition into their new loving homes and other goodies. We are happy to do personal viewings or video calls and for interstate buyers we can also help you organise transport with our breeders discount. Viewings for prospective forever homes will be conducted at our home when puppies are 4 weeks old. Puppies will be vet checked , vaccinated , wormed and microchipped before going to their new homes. Pups will be weaned onto Blackhawk premium puppy food. They are bought up in our home around humans, cats and general household noises. Pups are wormed, vaccinated and microchipped and will come with a puppy pack. Book your appointment for a visit now.

Introduction A very special dog is now becoming part of your life. So many of the people who have undertaken this journey before you have reported that it was the most rewarding thing they have ever done — and the odds are that it will be for you, too. Puppy mill rescue dogs Over the next year or two, you will watch a dog who has been deprived of virtually every known pleasure begin to first explore, then enjoy, a life that offers her these pleasures. But it may not be an easy road for you and for your new canine companion. Puppy mill dogs have had their world turned upside down. This guide provides you with some specific methods for helping your puppy mill survivor. It is meant to supplement our larger report entitled Understanding and Caring for Rescued Puppy Mill Dogs , which is a comprehensive summary of the findings of our study of over 1, breeding dogs who were rescued from lives in puppy mills and adopted into human households. In obtaining full psychological and behavioral profiles of them, we were able to gain a wealth of information about these incredible dogs. Some basic facts: Puppy mills. They are large-scale commercial dog-breeding operations where the happiness of the dogs is all but ignored in order to make a monetary profit from selling the puppies. To maximize profits, the dogs are housed in very small enclosures, live in unsanitary living quarters, are fed inferior-quality food, are denied decent medical care, and, most important, are severely deprived of positive human social contact. Psychological functioning. Because puppy mill dogs are born and raised in an impoverished environment and endure severe stress throughout life, their psychological functioning is not like that of normally raised pet dogs. This shows itself in how they interact with people, their desire to make eye contact, their social skills with other dogs, their desire to play, their ability to focus attention and learn — in short, their ability to function like a typical dog. Fortunately, the dogs have a remarkable capacity to recover from their psychological impairments. Many recover to the point where they appear to be completely rid of their psychological difficulties, others recover partially but not completely, and others are so severely troubled that they continue to struggle emotionally. Every puppy mill dog has a different capacity to adapt and recover, and we almost never know at the outset what this limit will be or when the dog will reach it. What this means is that adopters must accept up-front that the dog they are taking into their home may retain some psychological impairment throughout his or her life and may always be a special-needs companion. Rehabilitation of puppy mill dogs is often difficult and fraught with frustration. It may take weeks, months, or even years for the dogs to be free of their fears and other emotional struggles. But, as our studies have shown, the adopters who open their arms and hearts to these little survivors are all but assured an immensely rewarding experience. Course of recovery. For some it is fast, but for most it is slow. It can be fast, and then slow, and then fast again. Steps forward are often interspersed with steps backward. All puppy mill dogs are affected by their puppy mill experience in their own way, and their needs for healing are very unique when they escape that life. Methods of rehabilitation will also vary in their effectiveness from dog to dog. Methods that are beneficial for one dog may be ineffective and even counterproductive in another. Rehabilitation can involve some trial and error until you see what works best for your dog. Normal dog behavior. We know that there are many aspects of normal dog behavior that dogs who have spent their entire lives in puppy mills cannot be expected to show at first, among them: Showing any control or discrimination over when and where they urinate and defecate Trusting humans Desiring petting or being picked up, held or hugged Playing with humans, other dogs or toys Understanding any cues Walking on a leash Eight words to live by. Write them on a piece of paper and post it on your refrigerator so you will see it every day. For example, while almost no dog straight out of the puppy mill has any concept of or experience with a collar and leash, if a dog has been given enough time to learn about these things in a foster home, it may mean that, upon coming home with you, the dog is very familiar with wearing a collar and being on a leash. Back to top 2. How to prepare for bringing home your rescued puppy mill dog There are some things you will need to do before your new adopted puppy mill dog arrives in your home. Do: Dog-proof your house. In particular, remove or place out of reach small objects that might be ingested and anything you do not want chewed. Buy a dog crate that is the right size for the new dog tall enough for the dog to stand, long enough to accommodate the dog lying down from nose to base of the tail. Wire crates provide more ventilation, but the dogs feel more exposed correctable by draping blankets over the top and sides. The plastic crates are more den-like, thus providing a greater sense of security. The tops also can come off, allowing a fearful dog to be removed without pulling her through a crate door. Finally, be sure that the bottom of the crate is very comfortable to walk on, as many of these dogs have walked on nothing but wire cage flooring and their feet may be injured and painful. A soft blanket or pad works well for this. Have these additional items already at home before the arrival of the dog: Nylon leash, 6 feet in length Sturdy nylon collar of the correct size You should be able to fit two fingers comfortably under the collar when it is on the dog. Harness Again, you may have to wait until the dog arrives for proper sizing. Back to top 3. How to introduce your dog to your home You will almost certainly adjust to your new dog well before he adjusts to you, your family, and your household. Because of this, one of the strongest inclinations for newly adopted puppy mill dogs is to hide — behind, under, farther away — in any way that lessens the fear. The hiding can be for days or weeks, with the dog coming out only at night to get some food and water. When a puppy mill dog enters your home, your most important job is to protect him from things that frighten him. Do: Be patient. For these dogs, use of a crate will likely have to be omitted from any steps during the adjustment phase to the new home. Ideally, give her a quiet room to herself, where she can adjust without threats and disruptions for the first few days. Place a bowl of water and a little dry and canned food in the room not far from the crate. Put newspapers or piddle pads available at pet stores on the other side of the room. Then leave her alone and just peek in on her occasionally for the next few hours. Fully expect to find that your dog has urinated or had a bowel movement in the room. After a few days in his own room, bring the dog in his crate to an area of the house that has some human activity, but not a lot. The crate should either sit backed up into a corner or be shielded with towels or blankets draped over its top, sides and back end to give the dog a sense of safety behind him. The door to the crate should be left partially open. Here, the dog can feel some security in his crate but begin to be exposed to the all-new experiences of a human household. Next, set up the exercise pen in a room so that your dog can safely venture out of her crate but still feel somewhat protected. The pen also prevents the dog from going into parts of the house that you or she are not quite ready for. Always try to move slowly when around your puppy mill dog. Sudden and fast movements can be very frightening. Minimize loud and sudden noises, since they also can be very frightening. In fact, having another friendly and compatible dog in the house is what adopters tell us is the single most effective thing you can do to rehabilitate the adopted puppy mill dog. At night, having your dog sleep next to your bed can help him adjust to you in a non-threatening way. This may not be suitable for all adopters or the dogs themselves, so each adopter must decide which nighttime sleeping arrangement is best. You want him to learn that, in his safe place, nothing bad happens, which then allows him to feel more relaxed at all times because he knows he can always go to his safe place. Introducing puppy mill dogs to other friendly dogs in the house usually goes smoothly, but here are some tips to encourage a successful meeting. If possible, carry out the first contact between your newly adopted puppy mill dog and your current dog s in a neutral location — that is, someplace that none of the dogs have been before. With you supervising, allow them to watch and smell each other for a few hours. Let the dogs stay there for another hour or two. Next comes face-to-face introductions. If you have several dogs, do the following introduction with just one dog at a time. Put a collar and leash on your dog and also on the puppy mill dog if she accepts it. Have someone else bring the other dog into the room where you and your puppy mill dog are waiting. Be ready to use the leashes to separate them promptly if either shows any signs of aggression growling, snarling, baring of teeth, attempting to bite. When they start to show interest in other things in the environment rather than fully focusing on each other, it will tell you that they are generally accepting of each other. If you have to leave the house, confine the dogs separately so that your puppy mill dog and your other dog s cannot physically interact. You can keep them in separate rooms, or use a dependably strong baby gate to separate them, so that they can still see, smell and hear one another. Feed the puppy mill dog in an area at least 10 feet away from where the other dogs are fed, preferably where they cannot see each other while eating. If your puppy mill dog appreciates toys, she should have her own. Sharing things like toys, beds, food, and treats will come later, once your dogs become friends. Praise all the dogs for friendly behavior toward one another. Maintain a soft and soothing that is, not excited tone of voice so as not to startle or worry a noise-sensitive puppy mill dog. If you notice this happening, keep interactive sessions short until the dogs appear more calm during play. Back to top 5. Puppy mill dogs suffer on both counts. And because of this, puppy mill dogs arrive in the human home with very little willingness or ability to trust you or any other human. More importantly, the trust you want to help your dog develop is a trust in the world, of which you are one very valuable part. For puppy mill dogs, fear diminishes and trust grows in small increments over time. Our studies show that the vast majority of puppy mill dogs come to trust humans, but we have also learned that, for some of the dogs, this trust is extended to only one or two people. As long as the dog has at least one person he can trust, the opportunity exists for him to fully enjoy his life. Establish a consistent schedule that the dog will learn she can depend on. This is a critical part of building trust. Make a schedule for feeding times, going outside, play, rest and sleep — and stick to it. You want to teach your puppy mill dog that he can trust the world, that he can depend on the world to function in a reliable and nonthreatening way. Teach your dog that you are the source of good things in life, starting with food. Most puppy mill dogs will not eat from your hand at first, but with patience you can almost always teach this degree of trust. You can also build trust using treats. Sit on the floor with delicious treats placed at varying distances on the floor around you. It could take minutes or it could take months, but over time almost all puppy mill dogs will eventually start coming closer and closer to you to get the treats. Then, gradually shorten the distances between the treats and your body and between the treats and your hand, until you can place a treat in your upturned palm and have the dog take it out of your hand. When this happens, it is a huge sign of acceptance and trust. You will also want to simply teach your dog that you mean her no harm whatsoever — that you are not something to fear. So, sit on the floor, preferably and talk very softly to your dog. Many people read aloud in a soothing tone, which benefits both your dog and you, since you can get some reading done. If your dog is very frightened, you can read to her as she lies in her crate. Back to top 6. How to touch and handle your dog It is human nature to want to comfort frightened creatures by holding and embracing them. Giving hugs, cuddling, and showering them with love seems to be just what rescued puppy mill dogs need. Most puppy mill dogs are uncomfortable with physical contact by humans, and some are outright terrified. And, in light of their life experience, they have every reason to be. They have received very little or no positive human touch their whole lives. Change takes time, so be patient. Occasionally and gradually edge your arm, hand, leg, or body closer to your dog to show that nearness is no cause for alarm. Given enough time, almost all puppy mill dogs will eventually get close enough to sniff you — a huge step for them. Sometime after that, the dog will usually touch you with her nose or a paw. Let your dog have several weeks of developing confidence in her touching you before you try to touch her. If your puppy mill dog accepts your touch, you may try to pick her up, but do it in gradual steps. First, make sure she allows you to touch her sides, then allows you to place a hand under her body. Just back up to the point at which she did accept it and move through the steps more slowly. If at any point she seems distressed, stop and give her a few days before trying again. Dogs who do this also may roll onto their backs and even pass some urine. All of this is a show of submission. Celebrate your dog making her first physical contact with you. Remain absolutely calm and silent. Any sound or movement could erase the big step the dog has just made. Make direct eye contact at first. Point your head a bit off to the side and keep visual contact out of the corner of your eye. Ever startle a puppy mill dog by touching her from behind. Back to top 7. Early exposure to and interaction with humans during puppyhood is essential for the developing canine brain to form the connections that make for positive social relationships with humans throughout life. So, if a puppy is exposed to stairs in a positive way, for example, his comfort level with stairs will be natural throughout life. By contrast, if a puppy grows to adulthood without ever encountering stairs, he may have a persistent fear of stairs. As you can imagine, puppy mill dogs are routinely deprived of exposure to so many things that dogs living in homes experience every day. So, our overall goal in socializing puppy mill dogs is to lessen their fears of the basic, normal things that pet dogs encounter. We are striving to have them feel comfortable with being around humans and other dogs, being outdoors in wide open spaces, walking on solid ground, going through a doorway, playing with toys, riding in a car, hearing a vacuum cleaner, going up and down stairs, getting bathed, and so much more. Our greatest efforts, of course, are directed at helping puppy mill dogs to become comfortable around and bonded with people so they can enjoy living in human society. Because of the uniqueness of each and every rescued puppy mill dog, socialization plans must be tailored to the individual. Every aspect of the plan — what they are socialized to, where they are socialized, what specific steps and pace are required, what supplemental help e. Other dogs serve as a valuable role model for everything from how to play to where to go to the bathroom. Based on extensive reports from adopters, socialization efforts are very beneficial for many puppy mill dogs, but for others it can actually create distress. First, it is crucial for the puppy mill dog adopter to accept that every dog will maximally socialize to a different level. For example, some puppy mill dogs may be initially unwilling to walk on stairs, but over time will become completely comfortable running up and down stairs. Others may become better on stairs but never comfortable, and still others may become comfortable going up stairs but not down, or vice versa. The same is true with regard to socialization to humans. Some dogs may never achieve a comfort level with certain people in their lives. Only time will tell. All but a few of rescued puppy mill dogs will bond to their primary person, however. Have another dog around to help socialize your puppy mill dog. If you do not have one already, consider adopting another dog in need of a home. Misery may love company, but misery also compounds misery when two fearful dogs live together. Use desensitization and counter-conditioning to help socialize your dog. These techniques make the fearful stimulus e. The goal is to get your dog to associate good things with going to the vet. The same technique can be used to get a dog to enjoy the presence of people, other dogs, or a new baby in the house. When using desensitization and counter-conditioning, everything is done in small, gradual increments. Progress may occur rapidly or very slowly, and different dogs have different limits. Have all interactions between your dog and people she is shy around or fearful of e. They should stand sideways to the dog, crouch down if possible, not make direct eye contact, make no sudden movements, and talk to your dog in a calm, quiet tone of voice. If it is safe to do so i. If this goes well and your dog remains comfortable, give some treats to the person to place in the palm of the hand that she extends to your dog. Avoid the avoidable, when possible. Try pheromone therapy, which can ease anxiety and fear in many dogs. Dog-appeasing pheromone DAP comes in a spray bottle, a plug-in wall diffuser, and a collar. It is available through many online websites and at pet supply stores. Consult your veterinarian to see if this option is appropriate for your dog. Provide whatever comforting words and gestures seem to help your dog cope with his emotional challenges. How this absurd notion ever got started is a mystery, but it is scientific nonsense. Use common sense here. If you had a snake phobia and were placed in a box where snakes were poured on top of you, would you come out of the box less or more fearful of snakes? Ignoring the barking is the best response, because it prevents the dog from being rewarded for trying to get people to go away, and hence reinforcing the behavior. Back to top 8. But we must realize that bodily eliminations inside the house are not accidents at all to the puppy mill dog; in fact, to these dogs, this is perfectly normal behavior. To make matters worse, most of these dogs are very fearful, so training them to do anything — even with strictly positive techniques — can make them even more fearful. For puppy mill dogs, the basic rule is this: Reward the good, distract from the bad. Punishment is never a good idea when house-training a dog, but it can be even more harmful for the fragile and sensitive emotional make-up of rescued puppy mill dogs, impeding and even reversing any progress they are gaining in trusting people. House-training may take a week, it may take a month, it may take a year. Try not to get discouraged. As our studies clearly show, some dogs will achieve full mastery of eliminating in the right place. Be very careful when using even the gentlest-sounding house-training methods with puppy mill dogs. Because of the fear these dogs can have, even the most benign things, such as rewarding the dog for urinating in the right place, can scare them. Keep in mind that many puppy mill dogs are very frightened of being outdoors, which is, of course, a major hindrance to training a dog to do her business outside. For these dogs, use piddle pads or newspaper to train the dog to eliminate indoors initially. As an aside, not everyone wants or needs to train their dogs to do their business outside. For them, having the dog eliminate indoors on piddle pads or paper is just fine. It may happen, but do not allow it to be your expectation. Back to top 9. How to deal with marking Marking is when a dog most often a male, but occasionally a female urinates on specific objects or locations because of the influence of sex hormones or some source of stress. Male dogs in puppy mills, all of whom are not neutered obviously , mark in their cages and enclosures as a territorial signal to the other nearby males. The longer they do this before they leave the puppy mill, the more habitual it becomes and the lower the likelihood that it will fully stop even when they are neutered. In addition to the influence of sex hormones, marking can also be triggered by stress, anxiety and fear. And because we know that these emotional states are prominent in rescued puppy mill dogs, it is not surprising to find that marking is common in their new adoptive homes. Competition over human attention, sleeping places, access to certain locations e. Try dog-appeasing pheromone DAP , which comes in a spray bottle, plug-in wall diffuser and a collar, and is available for purchase via many websites. Use belly bands available at pet stores and online if needed. Clean all urine markings very thoroughly with white vinegar and an enzymatic product, which neutralizes urine odors available at pet stores and online. How to leash-train your dog It is extremely rare for dogs in puppy mills to have ever been on a leash. While we take for granted that for a dog or a human , using your neck to pull against something is no big deal, if you have never done that in your life, it would be a very unusual and possibly even scary sensation. This is likely why, in our study of puppy mill dogs, they pull against a leash much less often than typical pet dogs. Similarly, any pulling of the puppy mill dog with a leash is likely very frightening to him because he has never had something pull against this part of his body. Why leash-train? It allows you to gently get your dog out of a tight hiding place, such as out from under furniture, if need be. And it allows you to gently lead the dog to the chosen potty area if the dog is frightened of being picked up and carried. Purchase a sturdy nylon collar and a harness of proper size and fit. This will provide a mild pulling sensation on the collar that should not be upsetting. Be sure to always supervise the dog very closely to prevent the leash from catching on something and endangering your dog. Use the same leash-dragging strategy with the leash attached to the harness. You can alternate this with the sessions of collar attachment. Use only the harness if the collar is upsetting to your dog. Use delicious food treats as enticements and rewards when you first attach the collar, harness or leash, if your dog seems resistant but not distressed. Feed the treats while another person is placing the collar or harness on, or attaching the leash. Doing this in short trials over several hours or days should lead the dog to associate the apparatus with the treats and then be accepting of having them put on and wearing them. When it appears that leash-dragging is well tolerated, pick up the leash and follow your dog as she walks around, occasionally giving a very slight pull on the leash. Slowly increase the amount of resistance so she can feel what a little tension against the collar or harness feels like. Using this method, most dogs become quite comfortable with walking on leash. When she seems relatively confident with the outdoors, you can take her outside on the leash. Almost all of these things are eventually achievable, but you must go very slowly and be guided by what your dog shows he is ready for. Back to top .How to crate-train your dog The first thing to know about crate-training a puppy mill dog is this: Not all puppy mill dogs can be — or should be — crate-trained. Seeing, and especially being in, a cage-like enclosure may arouse memories of the puppy mill. Why crate-train? For this function, the crate door is left open. There are times when you need your dog to be in her crate, such as during the night or when workers are in the house and your door may be inadvertently left open. For this function, the crate door is kept closed. Make being in the crate a positive experience for the dog. Try feeding the dog in her crate and offer treats in the crate. In fact, anytime you lead your dog into the crate for the purpose of confinement, include a favorite treat e. Make sure your dog has first had the opportunity to go to the bathroom anytime she is put in the crate with the door closed. Start with short periods of time in the closed-door crate and slowly work up to longer periods of time. This means first observing how long your dog is comfortable in the crate before showing any indications of anxiety, such as pacing, pawing at the crate door, digging into the corners of the crate, crying, whimpering or barking. If possible, do several of these sessions each day. Then, over the next few weeks, very gradually increase the time she is spending in the crate during each session. In most cases, you will be able to extend the length of time that she can comfortably spend in the crate by several hours. He will very quickly form a mental association between crate and fear, and that may simply escalate the fear level. Use the crate in any way as punishment. Allow anything to make the crate an unpleasant experience. How to teach your dog to respond to basic cues Teaching your dog to respond to basic cues e. Basic training also establishes a leader and follower relationship, which is the most basic foundation for correcting any problem behaviors that may arise later. For the dogs who are negatively affected by training, there are two main factors at work: fear and an impaired ability to focus and concentrate. Actual training methods can be found in many books and online videos, including the Best Friends online pet care library. What you need to know here is how standard methods of basic training must be modified for the special needs of puppy mill dogs. Take your dog to training classes if you prefer having the structure of a class, but only if the other dogs, people and commotion do not cause your dog distress. Make certain that the professional trainer if you use one is knowledgeable about rescued puppy mill dogs and has had experience with them. Learning requires the mind to concentrate and maintain focus, and our studies show that, when compared to typical pet dogs, puppy mill dogs are less able to do this. None of this means that puppy mill dogs cannot learn, but they will have different capacities for how fast and how much they can learn. Try desensitization and counter-conditioning techniques if your dog seems very fearful or distressed by attempts at training. How to deal with poop-eating Dogs coming out of puppy mills do some strange things, but eating poop known as coprophagia is certainly one of the most unappealing to us humans. Puppy mill dogs eat poop for many reasons — ranging from hunger to relief of boredom. There are food additives that can make poop distasteful to a dog. The additives must be added to the food of any dog whose poop your dog is eating. Other things that your dog may prefer over poop include crumbled dog treats or small bits of bread. Punish your dog for eating poop. A social-media video that traces a former 'puppy mill' dog's journey back to health after being rescued has tugged at heartstrings across the internet. It shows the female poodle 'puppy mill mama' growing in confidence after being adopted by a loving family. The video's creator had shared in the post that the frail pup wouldn't even look at her new family while traveling home with them by car, because she was "expecting the worst. We are a c 3 nonprofit that rescues dogs in need. This video is the transformation of a puppy mill mama. She is 2. Mill dogs, especially adults, come petrified of all humans. They expect us to abuse them, and continue to breed them. It takes time to rehabilitate these dogs. It's sad because I've seen super young puppies be scared of humans because of what happened to them in the mills. It is rewarding seeing their progress once they are free," they added. The pup's new owner said the dog had been rescued three weeks prior to the video going live. The footage shows audiences clips both of the poodle looking frightened at the puppy mill and of her playing with other dogs with confidence while wagging her tail in her new environment. The video is captioned: "The best part is seeing the transformation. Puppy mills are commercial breeding grounds or farms where puppies are produced rapidly and by force, often in poor and unethical conditions, for monetary profit. Animal-welfare organization PETA says that puppy mills are a "well-kept secret of the pet-trade industry. The organization says that female dogs like the poodle featured in the TikTok post are typically bred over and over again until they can no longer produce puppies for profit. At that point, the female dog is usually auctioned off or put down. Canines Rescued from Commercial Breeders Get a Fresh Start Despite days of challenging weather, our Rescue Team persevered to reach the more than 50 dogs saved from commercial breeding facilities throughout the Midwest. These precious canines, who were cruelly cast aside and at risk of being euthanized, are now getting a new beginning and the care they deserve. Inside the Journey from Despair to Joy: Commercial Breeder Canines Get a Second Chance Thanks to our ongoing partnership with National Mill Dog Rescue, now 50 dogs and puppies have a second chance at life after being saved from commercial breeding facilities in the Midwest. Lifesaving Mission Rescues 50 Dogs from Commercial Breeding Facilities As the temperatures dipped into single digits for the first time this year, our dedicated volunteers awaited the arrival of 50 small breed dogs — including Yorkies, Maltese, Pugs, Shih Tzus, Boston Terriers and Corgis — who were rescued from commercial breeding facilities throughout the Midwest. The commercial breeding facility that had been their home was being shut down by government authorities. Just weeks from rescuing 40 dogs from commercial breeders in the Midwest, our Rescue Team made another trip westward and returned with more than 50 dogs and puppies from Kansas-area breeding facilities. In all, 48 incredible animals — no longer unwanted — arrived to have their lives transformed. As one-by-one, a variety of dogs — including many Poodles, Pomeranians, Dachshunds, Shih Tzus, and Yorkies — made their way into the gentle hands of our volunteers to be carried inside, you could see a common feature in all their faces. They were ready to accept a tender touch. Whether shy, or confidently seeking attention, it was clear each dog was grateful for the kindness and compassion we were there to give. They were rescued from awful conditions in Missouri and Oklahoma through a large-scale collaborative effort with National Mill Dog Rescue and five local animal welfare organizations. Rather, it is a year-round commitment to every dog, cat, puppy and kitten in need. As temperatures were dropping our Rescue Team met up in Missouri with our partners at National Mill Dog Rescue to help bring 43 dogs and puppies, who were rescued from the horrors and inhumane conditions of commercial breeding facilities, to the love and safety of our Port Washington, NY campus. This time, the collaborative rescue efforts helped to pull 57 dogs and puppies from various commercial breeding facilities in Oklahoma and Missouri.

Use tab to navigate through the menu items. Deer Creek Comfort Dogs Shaping future companions for families and those in need of comfort Our family has been raising puppies for over 20 years. Our children have always had a passion for dogs which began our journey and now our grandchildren enjoy growing up with our wonderful dogs by their side. Deer Creek provides emotional support dogs, therapy dogs, service and therapy prospects, canine good citizen dogs as well as family pets. Deer Creek assists our families with puppy selection to help ensure the families get the puppy that will work well with their needs. Someone once said, "Acquiring a dog may be the only opportunity a human ever has to choose a relative" and we hope you choose one of ours. If you are interested in finding your new family member, fill out our puppy application and we will be thrilled to work with you. We recognize that our dogs have the capability of changing peoples' lives on a therapeutic level. Many of our Doodles have become therapy dogs at funeral homes, children's advocacy centers, hospitals and nursing homes, and others have found homes as anxiety, PTSD and emotional support dogs. Learn more about our nonprofit organization Deer Creek Paw Prints at www. Learn More Molly, Rhys, and Beau! Their adorable curly fur and expressive faces make you want to cuddle them — and these little guys love nothing more than a good squish. All this and more makes our labradoodle puppies for sale one the most in-demand in our center. Activity-loving families adore these dogs for their propensity towards sports, and anyone who prefers low-shedding pooch benefits from their wooly or fleecy fur. Labradoodle puppies for sale are so cute and come in such a wide range of colors that it makes choosing your new best friend super-hard! While spearheading the Royal Guide Dogs Association of Australia breeding program, he conducted the crossbreeding of a standard poodle and Labrador retriever in view of it being a hypoallergenic guide dog for blind people. The first example of this type of dog, called Sultan, went to live with a lady in Hawaii, where other breeders saw him as an inspiration and this is how Australian Labradoodle puppies started. Both the International Australian Labradoodles Association and the Australian Labradoodles Association of America are working hard to incorporate more intergenerational breeding so these dog breeders can register this type of dog as a purebred dog. Its gentle, obedient and intelligent personality combined with a hypoallergenic coat make it ideal for family members with allergies, but it also makes an excellent service or therapy dog. Labradoodle Puppies Lifespan When properly taken care of, healthy dogs tend to live anywhere from 10 to 13 years. The lifespan of our Labradoodle puppies for sale is slightly above average at 12 to 14 years. Here are the life stages of multigenerational Australian Labradoodles: Puppyhood: First five months Adolescence: Between five months and two years Adulthood: Between two and three years Middle age: Between seven years and 10 years Senior: Over 10 years Labradoodles need the most attention and care in the first and last stages of their life. During puppyhood, their minds are highly impressionable, which is ideal for training. During their senior years, Labradoodles are more susceptible to health problems, which means owners need to keep a watchful eye. Labradoodle Size The size of labradoodle puppies for sale directly relates to the size of their parents and which generation of breed Labradoodle breeders chose. The larger the puppies, the larger the adult dog will be, and the faster their growth will be coming out of the puppy stage. A standard labradoodle puppy will weigh from pounds by the time it reaches two months of age. By a year old, it will have grown dramatically to up to 80 pounds, depending on the size of its parents. Medium Labradoodles occupy a spectrum of sizes between standard and mini Labradoodles, with the specifics depending heavily on the details of the breeding pair that birthed them and the breeding program they come from. Labradoodle Puppies Temperament While Labradoodle breeders originally bred the Australian Labradoodles as therapy dogs, their fun, friendly personalities made them popular pets. Now you can find these sociable dogs in homes across the globe. Here are some of the top personality traits of our Labradoodle puppies for sale. They tend to do best in active households where they can work off all that pent-up energy. You can fulfill their needs through the following activities: Walks or jogs: Labradoodles make great walking companions and can even keep up with you during a jog. Playing in the yard: Enjoy a game of fetch with your furry friend in the yard or just let it loose on its own. Dog sports: If you stay active through sports, consider making your labradoodle a part of your routine. Bring it on bike rides, go for a run together or kick a ball around in the yard. Obstacle courses: Set up an obstacle course for your dog using household items. Scavenger hunt: Creating a scavenger hunt for your canine is a great way to exercise its body and brain. In general, Labradoodles need anywhere from 30 to 60 minutes of exercise a day. You can also enroll them later at a Labradoodle puppy alumni school for proper training. Friendliness What makes Labradoodles the perfect puppy compare to other dog breeds is their ability to get along with just about anyone. They inherit this trait from their Labrador retriever parent, a breed also known for its outgoing nature. You can trust your labradoodle to form friendships with everyone, from children and older adults to strangers and other puppies. Thanks to their affectionate, sociable personalities, Labradoodles make great pets for first-time owners, families, or anyone looking for a companion. Intelligence Thanks to their poodle parent breeds, Labradoodles are incredibly intelligent dogs. Because Labradoodles are intelligent, they often crave mental stimulation. Labradoodle Puppies Grooming Our Labradoodle puppies for sale have a variety of coat textures that dog owners enjoy, but in general, their low shedding coat needs brushing at least twice a week. Not only does this keep them tangle-free but it also removes excess debris from their coat, keeping them fresh and hygienic. Regularly trim the hair around their eyes and in between their paws to prevent these problem areas from causing irritation. Pooches with fleece coats tend to have longer fur and benefit the most from going to a professional groomer — although every dog loves getting pampered once in a while. At Pride and Prejudoodles, we send a can and a bag of the foods we use for free with your hand-delivered bundle of joy. If you need to change it for any reason, it must be done gradually to avoid stomach upsets. Just bear in mind that a diet is such a crucial aspect of wellness that feeding them good quality food will add years to their lives compared to opting for low-quality feed. Pride and Prejudoodles is here to help. We hope you found our guide informative. Please contact us with any other questions you have about our Labradoodle puppies for adoption. Life Span Did You Know? A Labradoodle is a popular designer dog breed. It is a cross between a Standard Poodle and a Labrador Retriever. This designer dog breed originated in Australia around .The main goal of the Labradoodle was to create a hypoallergenic guide dog for people living with disabilities who were also allergic to dog fur and dander. Now, they are still a popular choice for service, guide, and therapy dogs and are also a popular companion dog. Labrador Retrievers and Poodles are both friendly, gentle, intelligent, and affectionate dog breeds. The Labradoodle tends to be similar. They are open and friendly and crave human attention and affection. They are happiest when they are with people. Labradoodles also tend to have an energetic and playful personality. They get along well with children, other dogs, other pets, and strangers. They are alert enough to bark or let you know when someone is at the door, but they are not generally good watchdogs or guard dogs as they are more interested in making friends. A Labradoodle is a highly adaptable dog breed. They do very well in homes with space to run and they can adapt well to apartment living as long as they are given plenty of exercise and mental stimulation. They also do well in most climates. As with any dog breed, they are sensitive to extreme heat and cold. Because they enjoy being around people, they do not generally like to be left alone for long periods of time. They can also become bored if not given enough attention, exercise, or mental stimulation, which can result in destructive behavior. This dog breed is generally healthy, but they do have the chance of inheriting common health conditions from both of the parent breeds. Some health conditions to be aware of include elbow and hip dysplasia, ear infections, progressive retinal atrophy, hypothyroidism, and epilepsy. Good breeding practices can reduce the likelihood of passing on many of these health issues. Be sure to talk with the breeder about the genetic history of the parents and ask to see any health clearances; this can help allay potential health concerns. A Labradoodle tends to be eager to please and highly intelligent, which makes them highly trainable. They are a good fit for dog owners of any experience level. As with most dog breeds, Labradoodles respond best to training that is consistent and uses positive reinforcement. There are some grooming tasks that are common to every dog breed. When it comes to coat care, it can vary with a Labradoodle. Poodles have a low-shedding coat that is also high maintenance in terms of brushing, trimming, and professional grooming. Labs tend to have a higher shedding coat that needs minimal brushing and grooming. For the most part, a Labradoodle will have a low or non-shedding coat that will need to be brushed a few times a week. But, they can have a higher shedding coat should they take after their Labrador parent. You may also need a few professional grooming sessions throughout the year. Nail trimming once a month is usually enough to keep movement comfortable and prevent longer nails from snagging on things. Proper dental care for your dog will help prevent gum disease and tooth decay. Drop-down ears are more prone to infection because floppy ears are more likely to trap moisture, dirt, and debris. This will make grooming throughout their life a much more enjoyable process for both you and your dog. It can even become a bonding time for you both as well. Labradoodles tend to be high-energy dogs. They require a few daily walks plus some time to run and play in order to stay happy and healthy. They certainly love to play and you may tire out before they do sometimes. They may calm down a little as they get to be a couple of years old, but they tend to be quite energetic as puppies. Going swimming with your dog , taking a hike with them, going on a trip to the dog park, playing a game of fetch, and more are all great supplemental activities to ensure your Labradoodle gets plenty of exercise. You can even train them to compete in dog sports like dock diving, flyball, agility, obedience, and more. A fully-grown Labradoodle will usually stand between 21 to 24 inches tall at the shoulder and weigh between 50 and 65 pounds. Labradoodles generally live 12 — 14 years. However, it did not become popular until when the mix was specifically bred to create hypoallergenic guide dogs. Featured Labradoodle Article. What makes a good breeder? Is it cost, location, reputation or something else entirely? A great breeder will do or be willing to do the following. When possible, always do reviews on breeders and try to get word of mouth referrals. The breeder will want to know that you care about the dog and will be a good owner. The best way to be the best possible owner is to be armed with as much information as possible. Here are some important questions you may want to ask the breeder. Ask about any vaccinations or shots the puppy has received, and ask to see documentation. Ask about any health tests that have been done on the parents. Ask about any health issues the parents or grandparents may have had. Ask if the breeder will offer a health guarantee and contract. Ask why he or she sells the puppies and what made him decide to start the Labradoodle breeding business. Ask as many questions as possible about the Labradoodle breed. Ask the breeder if he or she is a member of any Labradoodle associations. Ask if he or she can provide you with references. Ask if the dogs are certified with any Labradoodle organizations. Breeder Red Flags Sometimes when we see a puppy, we instantly fall in love and forget about any questions or concerns we may have had. Or, worse yet, we tend to overlook red flags that are right in front of us because of our excitement over either getting the puppy or getting the puppy at a great price. Here are some common breeder red flags. The breeder tries to convince you his dogs are perfect, and the breed is the perfect breed. No breed is perfect, and every breed has some characteristics that may not be ideal at all times. The breeder will not allow you to come to his place of business or requests that you meet at a different location. Properly socialized puppies will be friendly and inquisitive. The breeder is reluctant to provide you with references. The breeder seems bothered by your questions The breeder is operating a puppy mill or a place where a variety of dogs are sold. Breeder will not provide a health guarantee. A veterinarian has not seen puppies. Breeder is willing or eager to let the puppy go to its new home at around six weeks of age. Breeder states dogs come from healthy stock but cannot provide proof. Breeder cannot show you both parents. Breeder will sell the puppy without a contract. Breeder asks for a deposit before providing any contract or information. When dog breeder are trying to sell their puppies for the highest possible price, they often advertise or tell you things that may not be true. For instance, they may say the puppy comes from champion show lines, but can he prove it? If the breeder says the puppy comes from healthy stock, ask for verification. Has he followed up on previous litters? Unscrupulous breeders will often tout all sorts of positive things about their puppies. Ask for as much verification as possible. If this seems to upset him, find a different breeder. Cost may be a factor, but it definitely should not be the main factor when choosing a breeder. You may be wondering why there is such a variance between the lowest and highest prices. Here are a few things can impact the cost. Bloodlines — Labradoodle breeders who do what they do because they have a love of the breed have dogs of high-quality bloodlines that go back several generations. They can also probably tell you a little something about every dog for several generations back. Experienced breeders do generational breeding to bring out certain qualities and characteristics. For instance, you may want a light colored Labradoodle with a wool coat. An experienced breeder will know what type of dogs he needs to combine to get you the desired Labradoodle. This is generally going to cost more than if you had no preference in what kind of a Labradoodle you wanted to buy. Quality of the Breeder — High-quality breeders often charge higher prices because they offer only high-quality dogs and high-quality services, such as intensive health screenings and health guarantees to name just a few. Age of Dog — The age of the Labradoodle you buy can affect the price as well. The puppies usually come with the highest price tag. In cases like this, breeders may sell them at a discount because they know most buyers prefer puppies. However, an older pup may also come with a higher price if the dog has some sort of training. What this means is that you will have a Labradoodle dog but not one that you can breed. Some believe that females open their eyes before males. Labradoodle puppies usually start weaning between three and four weeks of age. Puppies usually go to their new homes between the age of 6 to 8 weeks, so breeders want to know that the puppy is completely weaned at that time. By doing your research, you may find it easier than you think to find a great Labradoodle puppy breeder. Related Posts:. Usually, the difference between rescuing and buying comes down to the difference between getting an adult and a puppy. But there is another factor worth taking into account, and that is cost. A trained adult dog will be more expensive. Larger donations often include the cost of microchipping and vaccinations. Starting with how to find a puppy from a breeder. So other Labradoodle owners, and your local veterinarian, are both good starting points to ask for recommendations. But there are some organisations that can help. You may even have a local Labradoodle Club in your area, that holds a list of breeders. However you find your breeder, do bear in mind that there is a limit to how thoroughly most Clubs and Associations are able to check out the people in their breeder directories. There are some amazing Labradoodle breeders out there, committed to breeding healthy, high welfare, pups. And there are some less experience or less dedicated breeders that you would be better off avoiding. So how do we tell the difference? Spotting A Good Breeder A good breeder is open, welcoming and honest. They are happy to have home visits. They will come well recommended, and can provide you with references from other happy clients. The puppies will have been vet checked, and are likely to have microchipped this is a legal requirement in the UK. They may have had their first vaccinations. A good breeder will ask you a lot of questions! They will want to know all about your home and lifestyle, to satisfy themselves that you are offering the right environment for their pup to thrive in. They will usually ask for the pup to be returned to them if you find yourself unable to care for them later on. The Importance of Puppy Health Checks All breeders should carry out certain health checks on the proposed parents, before breeding them. These check for common inheritable conditions. By only breeding from suitable parents, we give puppies the best possible chance at a healthy life. When you buy a Labradoodle pup, both parents should have had hip and elbow checks, and a basic eye test. They should have genetic testing for progressive retinal atrophy — an inherited cause of blindness common in both Labs and Poodles. Labrador parents should also have genetic screening for centronuclear myopathy, exercise-induced collapse, and a form of dwarfism called skeletal dysplasia 2. They should be checked for a knee condition called Patella Luxation, as should Toy Poodle parents. Mini Poodle parents should be tested for osteochondroplasia, a severe form of dwarfism. And Labradoodle parents should have all the tests for both breeds. One of them is putting off and delaying producing all that health paperwork for you! However this risks you having to manage an unwell, or even traumatised, puppy for the rest of its life. With all the heartbreak and financial cost that goes with it. And by buying from a puppy mill, you are supporting the owner to go on breeding in this way. The best way to help future pups, is to walk away. And to report the breeder to the relevant authorities. However, it does still happen. Register your interest at relevant shelters and organisations. They may have waiting lists you can join. Shelters and Organisations To Contact Local shelters that take all breeds you may get lucky! Labrador specific rescues Poodle-mix rescues Organizations known for puppy rescue There are a few organisations that specialise in rehoming Poodle mixes. In addition, Labrador or Poodle specific rescues often also take mix breed dogs that have a Lab or Poodle parent. Where Can I Get An Adult Labradoodle Finding an adult Labradoodle to rescue is easier than finding a puppy, but you may still need to be a little patient, as you have a particular breed in mind. Start local, if you can. This makes it easier to meet with the shelter, and your prospective pup. And helps if the shelter like to carry out a home visit. They will want to make sure that your home and lifestyle are suited to an energetic, fairly large, rescue dog. Do your homework before speaking to them. Be ready to explain why you feel a Labradoodle is the right dog for you. Let them know what experience you have with dogs, and what support you have lined up if you are inexperienced. Be honest with them. Shelters are highly experienced at placing dogs with new families. Further Reading To Help You Prepare To help you prepare for your chat with the shelter, you might like to read some of these articles:. Dog lovers from Montauk to Manhattan come to us for adoptions for Australian Labradoodles. So please, give us a call today for more information about adopting a Labradoodle! The number for our office is .When you call, we can provide you with all the necessary information regarding adoptions. So we treat them as such. They get the care and attention they so truly deserve. We afford them an upbringing to become an outstanding and loving dog. The Labradoodles we breed are treated as a member of our family and live in our home. We are Labradoodle breeders for the joy of these puppies and the eventual happiness they bring to their new families. We look forward to welcoming you into our family. Committed Labradoodle Breeders Families are invited to come and visit with both the mommy Labradoodle and her puppies. This way you get a firsthand chance to see how special Australian Labradoodles are. We also want you to acclimate yourselves with them. All of our breeding dogs are tested by a veterinarian to ensure a healthy litter. These dogs are all hip, elbow, heart and eye certified by OFA. Our puppies are vaccinated at an age-appropriate time and receive their 8-week distemper. They are also dewormed and microchipped. And all puppies have a two-year health guarantee. Once they are between 8 and 9 weeks old we can send them to their new home. After six months, we recommend spaying or neutering the Labradoodle. This breed of dog is highly intelligent, loyal and friendly. All qualities of an excellent pet! We have been breeding puppies since and have become a trusted name for many prospective dog owners in the New York City area and beyond! For more information about adopting a Labradoodle, please contact us today. We gladly answer any questions you may have at the moment. The number to call to speak to our office is .When you call, we can answer any questions you have about the adoption process. Vocality level 3 in 5 Disclaimer: While the characteristics mentioned here may frequently represent this breed, dogs are individuals whose personalities and appearances will vary. Please consult the adoption organization for details on a specific pet. They are generally very friendly and are an ideal best friend. Labradoodles are very playful and have a high energy level. Long walks, hiking or jogging will definitely be a part of your future life as dog-parent to a Labradoodle. These dogs tend to do well with children in the home, but sometimes are better suited for older kids since they could knock smaller family members over with their size and exuberance. Are you looking for a dog park buddy? The Labradoodle could be the perfect match for you! They usually like to play with other dogs, so a good romp with some canine friends is ideal for them, with proper oversight and introductions. They would be a good choice if you have other pets in the home, given their general good nature. Still, cautious introductions of new pets are always a must! Labradoodles usually want to please their parents, so can be easily trained with positive methods. Upkeep Labradoodles have a lot of energy to burn! You should expect to dedicate at least minutes per day to giving your Labradoodle an outlet for their energy, whether in the form of a structured walk, playing in the yard with them, training, or a trip to the dog park to socialize. Their enthusiasm could easily turn to destructive behavior if not given this outlet. They would do best in a home with a fenced yard, so this energetic dog may not be the best option if you have a low-energy apartment life. Grooming needs will vary, depending on whether your Labradoodle inherits smoother or curlier fur from the Labrador and Poodle breeds. You can expect to devote some time each week to regular brushing and bathing, but some may require a trip to a professional groomer every weeks.