labrador puppy weight

labrador puppy weight

Daily Paws' Editorial Guidelines Published on April 16, If you have an automatic ice dispenser in your freezer, you might have a pup that comes running every time he hears you filling up a glass. In his mind, he's probably wondering what yummy frozen treat you're not sharing. But are ice cubes safe for dogs? In a blog post, a pet owner claimed giving her pup ice water led to the dog quickly developing bloat. This is a life-threatening condition where the stomach expands and twists, and is most common in large, deep-chested dog breeds. The post went viral, worrying pet parents everywhere. But there is no evidence to support this claim. Nobody knows what, precisely, causes bloat, but some believe drinking a lot of water with or without ice too quickly to be a risk factor. The short answer is that eating ice will not kill your dog. More realistic ice-related dangers for dogs who like to chomp ice cubes aren't nearly as dramatic. Nichols says that it's possible for ice cubes to damage the enamel on dog's teeth. So Wait.Not so fast. We humans enjoy ice in our drinks, so you may be thinking your dog would enjoy a little ice in their water too, right? It's a tough reminder, but we have to keep in mind that dogs and humans aren't the same even though we may feel like family sometimes! After a long walk or vigorous game of tug-of-war, your dog will be just fine with water straight from the hose or faucet. Giving him ice water, or just a handful of ice cubes, has no beneficial value, Nichols says. And as with any addition to your dog's diet, it's best to check with your veterinarian to better understand whether your pooch in particular may have any additional risks to take into consideration. Crushed vs. If you're bombarded with puppy dog eyes every time you help yourself to a cold drink, you could give your dog ice cubes. But if you do choose to give Fido ice, Nichols recommends serving crushed over cubed. Again, chewing on ice cubes can cause your dog's teeth to break—especially if your pup likes to crunch his food. To avoid a big veterinarian bill and to keep your four-legged friend from hurting himself! But in general, crushed ice pellets are a better option than large, solid cubes. Puppies get their first set of teeth when they're around two weeks old. After you adopt your puppy and bring him home, he'll begin teething losing his baby teeth to make room for full-sized chompers when he's between 4—6 months old. Don't give your pup ice cubes for teething. If anything, Nichols says that she has recommended freezing a washcloth and letting the teething puppy chew on it. But doing that could encourage him to chew on cloth—and your pillows and clothes might not be safe afterward. To help with teething, it's best to give your puppy soft and flexible chew toys. Dogs don't sweat like we do, and if they're a Nordic breed a. Both floofy dogs such as the Samoyed and flat-faced breeds including Boston terriers are susceptible to heat stroke. All dogs should have access to shade, shelter, and water during hot summer days. If your dog begins showing signs of heatstroke excessive panting , thick saliva, and abnormal red gums are some common symptoms , the best way to cool down your pup isn't by giving him ice, but by wetting his feet and belly with cool water and taking him to the vet immediately. Was this page helpful? Everyone has seen them, we prepare them in the fridge at home and we put them in our drinks. Let's talk about something else. Everyone knows that dogs are almost omnivorous. What happens your four-legged friend is so young as not be oblivious to what ice is? What then? Watch the video at the top of the page. Show more This is how a person who discovers something old but for the first time in his or her life looks like. The puppy sees a cube of ice for the first time and is full of marvel just by looking at it: it has no color, no taste, it can see the blanket through and what is most important — it leaves such an odd sensation to the soft and tender muzzle when you even near it, let alone bite it. Dogs are keen observes, even very young ones and this puppy is set to investigate the strange object more closely and you can see it observing the ice cube from all possible angles. It even chases the slippery new toy on the floor. This must be the day if its life! Among other things, people love to show off their pets. They are treated as stars, as cute toy creatures that give one joy, or even ugly, but ridiculously funny pets. Pets are, and this is a fact, one of the top-5 keyword searches on the Internet. For those few who did not know, let us tell you a little secret about dog videos. The Internet was first conquered by cats: a lazy cat, an angry cat, a cross-eyed cat, a brave cat Remember the hero cat who saved the little boy from a dog attack? Of course, we all do! Photos, videos, memes, gifs, whatever you could possibly imagine to share online was instantly gaining immense popularity! Entire audiences of admirers and subscribers started to gather and expanded. And how did our dogs leg behind in this pet-craze? They actually did not! Dogs confidently began to catch up with the mustachioed mousers. And not only catch up, they even started overshadowing their popularity. And why you might ask. It is because of amazing dog videos like this one on the top of the page. Go, go dogs! If you liked the video with the pup discovering ice cubes for the first time in its life, we are sure that you would just live this one showing how much a Golden Retriever puppy hates fidget spinner. Puppies are just adorable, especially Golden Retrievers! They show such wonder at discovering new things every day and even more precious is the way they react to commonplace objects and goings-on. They have so much to learn! If you love dogs as much as we do, share this video on social media or tell us a story of your beloved four-legged pal in the comment section below. And remember: dogs rule! Show less.

All dogs are unique and grow at their own rate. Pro Tip: Check out our complete guide to puppy care to ensure your Lab gets off to a great start. As a medium to large breed, Labrador Retrievers need at least one year to reach their full size. A general rule of thumb suggests your Lab should be at or close to its full size by their first birthday. However, bigger-boned Lab puppies can keep growing and filling out their chest up to 18 months old. How big should a 6-month-old Labrador Retriever be? The average Lab weight at six months old is about 40 to 55 pounds for males or 30 to 35 pounds for females. Please keep in mind that these numbers are averages, and every puppy will grow at a slightly different rate. How much bigger will my Labrador Retriever get? There are three ways to predict the size of a Labrador Retriever at maturity: Age. Labrador Retrievers typically reach their full height and weight around their first birthday. Larger Labs may need up to 18 months to fill out their chest, but any weight gain after 12 months should be minimal overall. If your Lab is less than a year old, they are likely still growing and putting on muscle to reach their adult size. Paw Size. If their paws look oversized next to their legs and body, then they are probably still growing, as this is a classic puppy feature. Lastly, if you purchased your Lab through a breeder, you can contact them for a more exact height and weight estimate. What is the size of a full-grown Labrador Retriever? A full-grown Labrador Retriever weighs between 65 and 80 pounds and stands about .The average weight of a full-grown female Labrador Retriever should be about 55 to 70 pounds, standing at .Make sure to consult with your veterinarian to ensure that your Lab is maintaining a healthy weight for its body size. The Labrador Retriever growth rate should be indicative of its athletic body and muscular build. Did you know. ? Their webbed paws made them strong swimmers, along with their otter tail, which acts like a powerful rudder when retrieving ducks. English nobles spotted the dogs and brought them home across the Atlantic, where breeders continued to refine the breed into its own variation. Between their friendly demeanor, adaptability, and outgoing disposition, they make ideal family members. As cherished members of our families, Labs deserve the best care. Unfortunately, like many other purebred dogs, Labrador Retrievers are more susceptible to various health issues. Some of the most common examples include:. Hello from 2 year old Molly and me. The first thing to be said is that Reggie is a normal 13 week old puppy. His biting is not agression, though that doesn't,make it any less painful and unpleasant. He is just a baby and babies learn through their mouths. When Molly was Reggie's age my hands were covered with fresh blood, and scabs it various stages of healing. I, like you was in despair, nothing I tried worked. She grew out of it at about 18 - 20 weeks. She learnt bite inhibition during that awful period, an essential skill for a large dog with big teeth and powerful jaws. Today I would trust her mouth anywhere. The advice you have been given on toilet training is spot on. I know it is difficult to remember to take him out every 20 minutes of so, and to find the time to do so, but dedication pays off. Molly was about Reggie's age this time two years ago. I remember standing in a cold, dark garden pleading with a little,furry scrap to pee when all she wanted to do was chase leaves etc. You might find it helps to give him the majority of his food in filled and frozen Kongs and other toys. Make him work for his food. He will enjoy it and it will give you some peace. The early waking is a real pain, it is a question of his maturity. It feels like it will never end and you long for your old life back, but like many things it does pass. You can teach him some simple commands like sit, give paw and many others. Involve your son in this. I always teach a verbal command and a hand gesture. Kids love this. It is quite a sight seeing a four year old waving her hands imperiously at a dog while telling her to "sit". Between 8 weeks and 10 months, your puppy has a ton of growing to do, and they change drastically from month to month. Each stage of growth requires specific attention, exercise, and diet, so there is much to learn and pay attention to these different growth stages. There may be behavioral challenges while your pup adjusts to their new life without their mother and siblings. This period of adjustment can sometimes lead to fearful and timid behavior, and your puppy will need as much attention and affection as possible. They should be eating 3—4 small meals a day at this stage. You can begin basic command, leash, and potty training at this point too. Although the schedule is not complete this is a critical period to begin socialization and making sure they are calm and friendly with other dogs, just make sure they are also vaccinated. We highly recommend making training a part of their daily activities at this age. Biting can be an issue at this stage too, as they will begin teething, and they will start exploring and chewing whatever they can find. Chew toys and consistent command reinforcement are both vital for avoiding this behavior. The good news is that your puppy will grow out of this habit at around 6 months old. Your lab should also be house-trained by this point, but there may still be the occasional accident. Remember to be gentle but firm when this happens, and your pooch will likely move through it swiftly. They will begin losing their baby teeth at this point, and biting and chewing may reach its peak. Firm but gentle commands, chew toys, and loads of patience are essential at this stage. Your puppy will be testing the limits and may start showing dominance, ignoring known commands, and asserting more independence. You can now drop their meals down to two meals per day, but be sure that they are not eating too quickly. Your puppy will start to closely resemble an adult at 6 months, but remember that mentally, they are still puppies and will need loads of direction and training. Females may enter their first heat at 6—7 months, so keep a careful watch for stray males. They will still display puppy tendencies and traits and have a ton of excitable energy, but they should be fairly obedient and well-trained by this stage. Be sure to give your Labrador plenty of exercise at this stage to help keep them from misbehavior. They will have reached their full height by now but may still gain weight and muscle mass in the coming months. Unless you intend on breeding, you should consider neutering and spaying your puppy to avoid wandering and unwanted pregnancies. While some breeders recommend that you wait until a year old, this is a perfectly suitable time to perform the procedure. They may still gain weight and muscle mass but much slower than during the past few months. They will still display puppy characteristics and even test boundaries, but all in all, they should be obedient and well-trained by now. They will have a ton of energy and still enjoy playtimes and loads of exercise. While they are at their full height at this age, some Labs may appear lanky and still have weight to fill out in the coming months. When Do Labradors Stop Growing? All dogs are unique, and the question of when they stop growing is largely dependent on the individual. Anecdotally, your Lab should have reached their full weight by 18 months and full height by 9—12 months. Most breeders agree that your Lab will stop growing at some point during their second year. Even so, any weight gain during their second year will be minimal, and they will have done the majority of their growth by their first birthday. Mentally, they are out of the puppyhood phase of testing boundaries and disobedience by their first year— if correctly trained. If you have been consistent in training thus far, your Lab should be friendly, obedient, and well-behaved from their first birthday and into adulthood. In males, neutering can sometimes result in a calmer, more relaxed dog, and this, in turn, will slow down his need for exercise and may result in weight gain. A study in showed that dogs neutered before 37 weeks may gain more weight, while dogs that had the procedure after 37 weeks had a slower growth trajectory. The difference was minimal, though, and there is no reason to assume that these procedures have much of an effect on growth rates in dogs. Dangers of Growing Too Quickly or Stunted Growth While some puppies may grow quicker or slower than the agreed-upon average, this is usually nothing to be concerned about due to the individual and unique nature of dogs. However, if your pooch is gaining weight rapidly or not gaining enough, there may be deeper issues to look into. If your dog is from working or hunting stock, they may be smaller than average Labs and are usually lighter for work in the field. Size may also be genetic, and if your Lab comes from small parents, they will be smaller than average. The same may be true of heavier-than-average Labs—if their parents are large, they will likely be similar in size. However, larger-than-average weights may also be due to overfeeding or a lack of exercise , or a combination of both, so be sure to keep their exercise and feeding habits consistent. Image Credit: rebeccaashworth, Shutterstock Growth Distinctions of Different Labradors Although they are designated under the same breed, there are two different types of common Labradors: English and American. English Labradors tend to be stockier and more muscular than their American counterparts and have a thick, waterproof coat , while American Labs have a slender build with a slightly finer coat. English Labs are slightly shorter, topping out at around 22 inches, but their stocky and muscular build often makes them heavier than American Labs. In fact, English Labs have been known to weigh up to 20 pounds more than American Labs without being considered overweight. American Labs are known to be slightly more active and energetic than English Labs, while English Labs tend to be less excitable and more laid back. English Labs are by no means lazy, though, and they still have plenty of energy and stamina to go around. Conclusion: Monthly Labrador Growth Pictures Hopefully, this guide has helped you understand the growth rate of your Labrador puppy and given you a better idea of what to expect during the different stages. See also:. Puppy training development after 6 months It is very tempting to get carried away with puppy training. Your young do is so willing to please and such fun to be around. It is important to go at a happy pace for you both. Positive reinforcement training is the right choice for your puppy because there are no negative consequences to getting something wrong. But you can still both suffer from burnout and frustration if you try to reach the later puppy training stages without totally aceing the earlier developments. Your Puppy Training Schedule This may not be exactly the same for each puppy, especially with retrieving which is more Labrador specific. However, it gives you a rough idea. Constantly changing direction. Stopping frequently for cuddles and rewards. This means I blow the recall whistle whenever the puppy runs towards me, no compulsion, and no whistle unless the recall is already underway. Socialisation: Lots almost daily of outings to different places rural and urban carried Visits to family and friends. Bite inhibition: Discourage hard biting, allow mouthing. Working with food: Learning how to take food gently without snatching or grabbing at the treat pot. I still give the puppy lots of encouragement by running away as soon as I blow the whistle. Socialisation: More socialisation, at least twice a week to busy public places. Bite inhibition: Discourage hard biting, allow gentle mouthing. Retrieving: Encourage chase and pick up retrieve drive. Hand touch: I teach all new puppies to touch my hand with their noses. This is a great foundation for other skills. Recall: Puppy recall continues, reduce my run to a walk, avoid any distractions. Still frequently blow the recall whenever the pup runs towards me of her own free will. Socialisation: From ground level after vaccination. No other leash walking at all Bite inhibition: No biting, gentle mouthing allowed. Retrieving: Continue to build drive. Positions: I introduce three positions — sit, stand, down. What to expect from your 3 month old puppy Most three month old puppies will be sleeping through the night. And will be having less potty training accidents in the house. There are a few potty training problems that arise at this age, and they are all covered in 15 potty training problems solved. Biting is a big shock and a big problem for many new Lab puppy parents so do check out our complete guide to biting , and join the forum for help and support. Help encourage your puppy to stay in their bed while you are eating. I have a pot of dog treats on our kitchen table, and whenever we sit down to a meal, the puppy gets a treat each time she steps into her basket. Just a treat for stepping in there. What to expect from your 4 month old puppy Your 4 month old puppy will be pretty much potty trained, but accidents still happen if they are left alone too long. Biting is usually starting to subside now, and many four month old puppies will be able to mouth at your hand without hurting you. At this point I start to discourage all mouthing. I teach every puppy to let me touch her face or approach her with my hand, food, a leash etc while holding eye contact and not grabbing at me, or at what is in my hand. This is the age at which people often start to push forward with training. Your 4 month old puppy is capable of quite a lot. There is nothing wrong with teaching your puppy different cues and even some tricks. I recommend you still avoid long duration activities at this point as they are a common stumbling point with puppies young enough to have a short attention span. A ten second sit is ample. Add mild distractions Recall: Fade additional cues. Begin to whistle the pup and stand still. Add mild distractions. Clicker train to polish this in more mouthy puppies. No commands are needed for this. Gradual introduction of distractions. Advanced puppy training begins in earnest This is where I start a programme of sporting training with my Labs. You can begin raising your standards and expectations, asking for longer and more complex behaviors. Teaching your puppy to walk to heel nicely for longer distance and past all kinds of distractions and temptations. Or teaching your puppy to sit and stay for longer periods of time, and even while you go out of sight or while other dogs play nearby. What to expect from your six month old puppy Six months is a common time for people to have a lot of questions and to be struggling with a few challenges. This is now a very bouncy, quite powerful and rapidly maturing young dog. And you may need to patch up a few holes in his training or manners. We have a great article for owners of six month old Lab puppies. Save to Pinterest The Stages of Puppy Growth and Development Month by Month The following are the stages of puppy growth and development, starting at birth and ending when your dog reaches adulthood. The Neonatal Stage 0 to 2 weeks This is the newborn puppy growth stage that lasts until two weeks of age. At this developmental stage, puppies are blind and deaf. Expect puppies at this point to sleep almost constantly and their mother will take care of everything, keeping them warm, feeding them, and keeping them clean. The Transitional Stage 2 to 4 weeks At this puppy growth stage , they will start to open up their eyes and respond to sounds, light, and movement around them. You will also notice a puppy at this point starting to get more mobile, although they will still tend to crawl instead of walking. They do, however, have enough strength to stand up, but will stumble a lot. A puppy in this developmental stage will just be starting to recognize their siblings and mother. Lab puppies open their eyes at about two weeks old. By this time, Labrador puppies will have their eyes fully open and most will be at least partly open. Ears open at this point too and your puppy will begin to hear. Period of Awakening of Senses 3 to 4 weeks At this period , a puppy develops various senses rapidly. They start to get fully alert and aware of their environment and may recognize you and other humans that are frequently around. The Socialization Period 4 to 7 Weeks Once a puppy is around four weeks old, they start to learn the most important things in life-related to social development. They will learn to not bite all the time and how to interact with their siblings. Interactions with humans are especially important between five and seven weeks. This is also the time they will start to understand discipline thanks to their mother. She will start weaning her puppies and teaching them manners, like acknowledging she is in charge. As the owner, you can start introducing food to your puppy when they are around four weeks old. Start small and begin to give them more food as the mother continues to wean them. You should also continue handling the puppy every day. However, be sure not to separate them from their siblings or mother for over ten minutes each day, since this can lead to issues with training and socialization. Dogs who are separated too soon may also be nervous and more likely to bark and bite. During this period, let the mother dog take care of discipline; you should not correct the dog for mouthing or housebreaking mistakes until later in life. To help ease them through this process, avoid traumatic events, loud voices, or harsh discipline. You should also make sure your pooch has plenty of human contact during this stage. If you want, you can start leash training and even teach simple commands such as sit, down, stay and come. In terms of development, you will notice that your puppy can sleep through the whole night and starts to develop better control of its bowels and bladder. Most vets suggest that new outings should wait until they are fully vaccinated. We rub the Calmeroos Puppy Toy on littermates and mom to get their scent. When we get home the Calmeroos Puppy Toy helps our puppy feel comfortable and adjust more quickly to his new environment. Many puppies will go to their new homes at around 8 weeks old. We recently put together a blog post on our sister site detailing what you can expect from an 8-week-old puppy. The Juvenile Stage 3 to 4 Months At this point in development, a puppy can be compared to a juvenile. They will be more independent and may ignore the basic commands that they know very well. If this happens, firmly and gently reinforce the commands and other training. You may also notice your pup starting to test your authority by play biting or similar actions. You can also redirect your dog to a toy that they can bite. Either can end up teaching your pooch that it is okay to fight with you and challenge your authority. The Ranking Period 3 to 6 Months When your puppy is between four and six months old, you should expect them to be somewhat bratty, showing more willfulness and independence. They are more likely to test your limits and may try to show dominance over children or other family members. If they fail to listen to you or come when called, it can be dangerous as it puts them at risk of injury when in public. It can also hurt future responses to you, making them less likely to listen. This is also when your dog will be teething, so give them toys like frozen dog Kong toys to relieve pressure and pain. Chewing behaviors will also start growing at this point so look for some safe chew toys to keep your dog entertained. This is when hormonal changes start to occur and is the ideal time to spay or neuter your pup. UC Davis published a study comparing the long-term health effects of neutering in Golden Retrievers and Labrador Retrievers. Adolescence 6 to 18 Months After six months, your pup is already in the final stage of puppy development but is still young. This is a fun and exciting time for your pooch since they will be learning, full of energy, and exuberant. During this time, it is important to remember that even if your puppy now looks like a grown-up dog, they are still a puppy, at least in its mental capacity and emotional maturity. Work to slowly increase training and other activities. You can even work on advanced training such as agility or herding. Another option is to simply keep training them to ensure they interact in a non-aggressive and non-threatening way with other animals. It is also possible that your dog will go through another fearful period of time at some point after they reach six months. You can speed up the process with counter-conditioning and desensitization. It fits very well and is quite apt! Final Thoughts With the knowledge of how and when your new puppy will develop, you are better able to meet their needs. Provide socialization at the appropriate times and be sure to give your puppy plenty of social interactions with their siblings as well as humans and any other pets in your home. Your dog should reach maturity at some point between one and two years old with plenty of variation based on breed, Labradors are considered mature at between 2 and 2. Helps ease anxiety in their new home. We love using Bully Sticks to help divert these unwanted behaviors. Check out more of our favorites on our New Puppy Checklist. Colby Colby Morita has been raising and training guide and service dog puppies for over 13 years. Colby has been writing to the PuppyInTraining. Print Start training your hunting dog now! Thirteen-week-old puppies are challenging. If you have heard of the terrible twos for toddlers, a three- or four-month-old puppy is very similar. They are still puppies and therefore are still cute, do some fun and hilarious things, but they are also very troublesome. Here is the training for your week-old Labrador puppy. About this series of posts This is post six of a step-by-step training and socialization program for Labrador puppies. If you read our first post , you know that this series follows our training of Bubba, a female chocolate lab puppy. Bubba is already sold as one of our Custom Trained Retrievers, so it is our responsibility to raise and train her until she has progressed to the level of training the owner has requested. In this case, Bubba will be with us for almost a year and a half. Bubba Training and socialization for week-old Labrador puppy Here are the things we worked on this week while training of Bubba. Crate training At this point, I consider Bubba crate trained. We are no longer actively working on crate training her, it is just a natural part of her life. She goes in and out of the crate without issue, is quiet in the crate and sleeps soundly in her crate throughout the night. We put her in the crate around 9 pm and take her out at 6 am. She also spends time in her crate each day between periods of training or play time. Looking for more information on crate training? Housebreaking Housebreaking will be an ongoing process for the next couple months at least. Bubba rarely has accidents, and we know they will become less and less over time and will eventually just stop. Looking for more information on housebreaking? Obedience training your week-old puppy At three-months of age I start formal obedience with our puppies. We started formal obedience with Bubba last week and this will continue for the next several months. The key command I work on first is SIT. While we have already been working on SIT inside the home, moving this command outside and in a more formal setting will challenge Bubba. Formal obedience will be done on leash with a chain collar. In the past, I have enforced SIT with a push down on her bottom. Now, at this age, I will start using my dog training tools and will introduce the use of a heeling stick. Each time I give a correction with the heeling stick I say the command before and after the command. Currently Bubba will sit still for around seconds before getting antsy. Sometimes she gets distracted by her own tail, which is funny. I do some movement with my body to add distraction and firm up her SIT. My movement helps Bubba learn that just because I am moving, that does not mean she can. Over time I will add a lot more distractions, but I add them slowly based on how well Bubba is understanding what I expect of her. But so vital. Getting a good consistent reaction to the HERE command will require a little more maturity. Eventually, we will use an electronic collar to achieve quick responses to our obedience commands. But we want the puppy to be a bit older for before we start with the electronic collar. For now, I must be content with taking Bubba outside on lead and using a long lead for doing fetching and marks. She is starting to understand when I am not happy with her behavior. Luckily, Bubba is very tractable. I have already seen some adjustment in her behavior just from my stern commands and corrections. While I am not a big fan of treat training, I know that it is very effective to get a puppy responsive to the HERE command. I have started working with treats I use little kibbles of her dog food to get a better response from Bubba on HERE outside. Introducing your Labrador puppy to hunting elements We continue to introduce Bubba to various hunting elements. So far, we have introduced her to water and swimming, decoys on land, and a live pigeon. These introductions have all gone well, so this week we added a few more introductions. Introducing your puppy to boat on land There are several ways to hunt ducks and geese. Some hunt from a boat and some hunt from land. We take great care to make sure our dogs are trained to hunt from both. To do this, we start with an introduction to a boat on land. The surface of a boat can be slippery, and many dogs do not like to get into the boat at first. With retrievers this is generally easy to overcome by throwing retrieves from the boat. Bubba jumped into the boat with a little encouragement. She has been well socialized with walking on top of various items and surfaces, so the boat was not a big challenge for her. While Bubba was in the boat, I threw a bumper for her to fetch. When she brought it back to me, I had her jump back in the boat and repeated this a few more times. This is a trained behavior; it is not natural for a retriever to do this. The first step toward teaching your puppy or dog this behavior is to teach HOLD as a command. You can wear a leather glove if you are worried about damaging your hand. Be prepared to have a bit of a fight on your hand. Your puppy will not like this the first few times and will likely resist strongly. After a while your puppy will not fight it so hard and may even willingly SIT and hold your hand. Once your puppy starts getting adult teeth, you will want to stop this training since the teething process is painful and your hand will cause them more pain and will do more harm than good. Increased distance for assistant marks Bubba continues to get assistant marks each day. We have begun to increase the distance but are still limited to the length of our check cord until we can get a consistent response on the HERE command. Final thoughts on training for your week-old Labrador puppy Your week-old retriever is capable of learning quickly. Set boundaries and enforce infractions with a quick correction. If you are struggling or need additional help with your new puppy, you can email me ottertailkennels gmail. I would be happy to discuss your goals for your retriever and tell you about the programs I offer. Until next time, happy retrieving. Training your week-old Labrador puppy?

Replacement costs of these types of goodies will range based on how quickly your Bulldog destroys their current supply. You can also order subscription packs from many reputable companies that give your dog new exploratory items every month. Since these dogs are at risk for many health complications, save as much as you can—erring on the side of caution. The best time for obedience lessons is between 6 months to a year, but every trainer varies in preference. Depending on the treatment, you could spend thousands of dollars in one swoop. Pet sitting is more personalized care but can rack up extra fees. If you want to save as much as possible while still giving your Bulldog the care they need, look at these money-saving tips. They mainly offer spay and neuter surgeries at reduced costs, but they can also provide basic care. You can make anything from dog toys to intricate beds. Many things you can make may not even require going to the store for materials—you can simply make them from existing items at home. Auto-Ship Dog Food If you buy your dog food from certain websites, many companies offer discounted prices if you place an automatic, recurring order. Of course, you can always save on English Bulldog costs by using low-cost services and making tons of at-home projects and toys for your pooch. Less - The English Bulldog is a wide, medium-sized, compact dog with short legs. The body and head are massive with extra skin on both the skull and forehead falling in folds. The cheeks extend to the sides of the eyes. The muzzle is wide, short and pug with a broad, deep stop. The black nose is broad with large nostrils. The dark eyes are deep set. The rose ears are small, thin and set high on the head. The jaws are massive, very broad, and square with hanging upper lips. The teeth should have an under bite. The tail is either straight or screwed and carried low. The short, flat coat is straight, smooth and glossy. Coat colors include red brindle and other shades of brindle, solid white, solid red, fawn, fallow, piebald, pale yellow or washed-out red or white or a combination of these colors. Despite its "sourmug," the bulldog is jovial, comical and amiable, among the most docile and mellow of dogs. It is willing to please, although it retains a stubborn streak. It is very good with children. Most are moderately friendly toward strangers. Although some can be aggressive with strange dogs, the breed is quite good with other pets. These dogs were bred for sheer fighting capacity, and they were famed for latching onto their prey with an iron jaw which they refused to release—they could even suffocate opponents this way. English Bulldogs are simultaneously a symbol of British tenacity and an immensely popular American pet.

May 04, Free feeding, or leaving food out for a dog at all times, can be a convenient way to keep a dog fed without much effort. Some owners prefer to feed their dogs this way because it simplifies life. There are some drawbacks to this feeding style, however. Arguably, some dogs do fine eating their meals this way but there are many benefits to feeding a dog on a schedule. There are two basic styles of free feeding that we will cover here, unlimited food and rationed food. Although they sound similar, they are actually very different with rationed portions being much more controlled than unlimited food. Unlimited food: Unlimited food is exactly what is sounds like. It means that the food dish is kept full at all times by adding more when it starts to get low. This means the dog basically eats as much as they want, when they want. Of these two styles, rationed food is by far the most desirable way to free feed, if you were to do it. By monitoring the fed daily ration, an owner would have some idea if the dog was getting the proper daily nutrition, not skipping meals, or gorging themselves. When feeding unlimited food, there is just no way to monitor caloric intake and it makes it much more difficult to identify changes in eating behavior. Health problems could easily go unnoticed for a time, especially if there is more than one dog in the home. Free feeding puppies makes potty training near impossible, too. Scheduled feedings create healthy habits Dogs do great on a schedule. When a dog is fed about the same time every day, they establish a routine that they look forward to, which makes training and bathroom breaks easier. When the dog eats at a certain time, that also means they do their business at a certain time. This makes housetraining and potty breaks much easier to manage. A consistent routine lessons anxiety Dogs are habitual and when they have a consistent routine, life is less stressful. When they know when they will eat, go outside, have playtime, spend time alone, and go to bed, they are more comfortable, which helps prevent anxious behavior. What could be more anxiety producing than being trapped inside while having to poop after eating a giant breakfast out of boredom? Prevents food guarding Free feeding does not prevent food guarding, as some people believe. It can actually trigger food guarding because the dog is hyper aware that there is uneaten food in their dish. In multi dog households, it can also lead to dog bullying or dog fights over food. Makes monitoring intake easy When a dog is fed at set mealtimes, it makes it easy to monitor their intake. It is very obvious if they begin to skip meals, eat less, or want more food. Scheduled feeding can help identify health problems. In multi dog households, it makes it easier to know that each dog is getting the right amount of food on the daily. Prevents pests Scheduled feeding helps prevent bugs and vermin from scavenging on food sitting around all day and makes it easier to keep feeding areas and dishes clean. Weight gain and loss There is no way to know why a dog is losing or gaining weight if they are free fed unlimited food or free fed in multi-dog households. Overeating, undereating, and health concerns are hard to identify in dogs fed this way. Some medications, like pain pills and antibiotics, can be very hard on the stomach and are best given with a meal. Makes emergencies easier to manage In an emergency, such as emergency surgery or need for anesthesia, it is much easier to track when a dog ate last when they are fed on a regular schedule. Helps prevent bloat In breeds prone to bloat, such as German shepherds, they should not exercise right before or after eating. Free feeding makes it impossible to know when they might have eaten last during play or exercise times. It can also encourage them to gorge all their food for the day at one time. Limits food to dry diet Free feeding limits what a dog can be fed because fresh, wet, or raw food spoils when left out. These are just some reasons to feed your dog at regular mealtimes. We hope these tips are helpful as you decide how to feed your dog. As always, please feel free to share with your friends. The puppies are now 10 weeks old and have had their first set of shots. All of our puppies are registered, I would love to adopt them. How old are they now Ajmair Khan August 26, , am Are the puppies available or its just for fun???????? Connie Pinto September 28, , am I have a 5 year old male GSD, i want to give him to a loving home who has a female GSD with them, kindly inbox me if interested. Thank you Simon Raj November 25, , pm hi there friends if anyone have german shepherd for free adoptions please do let me know my number is and my name is Simon please do contact me if anyone looking for a home where his or her pet can be taken good care with alots of love thanks will be waiting to hear from you guys. Mere bhatijo ko German shepherd chahye they literally want it really bad. I wanna give them a puppy as a gift I can not buy kindly if someone willing to give can contact me we really love pets would love to have one at our house. Capt Aakash Hussain May 25, , am Aoa I need a german shepherd puppy for adoption, i have to travel alot so I'll be having a partner. If anyone willing to give puppy , kindly contact Name.

An 8 week old German Shepherd puppy is a bundle of antics and endless energy! Your 8 Week Old German Shepherd Puppy An 8 week old your puppy requires a daily routine and training to help them become the dog of your dreams. This article will not only help you understand your 8-week-old German Shepherd puppy but will also explain to you why your little puppy has certain behaviors. Raising a German Shepherd puppy can feel like an overwhelming task at first! Just remember, your 8-week-old German Shepherd puppy is also adjusting to its new life with you. You should expect your 8-week-old German Shepherd puppy to feel stressed and uncertain. They may seem timid and unsure of their surroundings. They might cry, whine, and not want your attention. Having structure and consistency will help create a bond and help you both in getting along more peacefully and calmly. Introducing A Puppy Crate Many dog owners choose to use a crate when it comes to caring for their 8-week-old puppy. While some people consider crates unnecessary, or even cruel, crate training is a useful skill to offer your dog. With the right training your pup will see its crate as their private safe space and will even go there to relax. Leaving your puppy at home unsupervised can get them and you into a heap of trouble. Crate training helps prevent your home from being a destruction zone. This useful guide to crate training a German Shepherd puppy gets you on the right track to success! Crate training your puppy can: help speed up housetraining teach your dog to settle calm down offer your dog privacy But you must introduce the crate slowly and positively so your puppy builds a strong connection to the benefits of the crate. Never just shove or push your young German Shepherd into the crate without using positive training. Your new dog also needs a routine and schedule to help them through the early days with you and set the expectations you have for them. Having a schedule helps your puppy to know what to expect in their daily routines. It keeps you from losing your mind and helps ease a worried puppy. While you might work from home or have other obligations, try to follow a schedule that looks similar to this: Early morning: Take your puppy out for the first potty break of the day! So, they may need to go outside even before the sun rises. Breakfast time: Your puppy may want to go back to sleep after going outside and this is perfectly normal. On the other hand, some puppies are wide awake and ready for their breakfast. Either way, always take your puppy back outside shortly after their breakfast so they can sniff and have another potty break. Mid-morning: Puppies should eat 3 — 4 small meals a day. Mid-morning is a good time for another small meal. Afternoon: This is a good time for their lunch followed by a potty break and plenty of sniffing time to work off some of their energy. Late afternoon: Puppies need another potty break in the afternoon, and some puppies need more breaks outside. Evening: Their dinner meal and their evening potty time. Remember to let them explore outdoors in a safe area to help build their confidence. Scheduling exercise, potty breaks, and play at the same times every day helps ensure that your puppy learns their daily routine more quickly and settles in nicely. And, even young puppies can learn basic training in their first weeks with you. Try training your German Shepherd puppy at home to start with. In the beginning, you may find a few accidents in the house. But, stick with your potty training and remember to always watch your puppy to keep them from having messes in the house. When you stick to a regular potty schedule, the likelihood of potty training mishaps decreases, and you and your puppy are less stressed. Always, always, always… Supervise your puppy indoors when you are potty training. Your toughest time together with your 8-week-old German Shepherd puppy might be the first few nights. Your puppy has only known the comfort of his mother and siblings before. Having your puppy sleep away from you will only scare them more. And, although they are little, their cry is loud! Having a place for them near your bed is the best way to avoid a night full of tearful cries and howling. Can I let my German Shepherd puppy sleep in bed with me? Plus, when your puppy is an adult and tries to sleep in bed with you there will be no room for you! A full-grown German Shepherd can weigh up to pounds and will push you right out of your own sheets. Your puppy sleeps most of the day. A new puppy sleeps more often than they are awake. An 8-week-old German Shepherd puppy may sleep as many as 18 hours a day! Sleeping this much allows your puppy to have the energy they need to grow and keeps them ready to explore their new world. Feeding An 8 Week Old German Shepherd Your puppy should stay on the same food they were eating before you brought them home to keep them less stressed. This helps keeps your 8-week-old German Shepherd puppy from having an upset stomach and becoming ill. Sometimes, you might want to switch them over to a different food. If you choose this route, do it slowly and in stages over a few weeks. At 8 weeks old, German Shepherd puppies should eat 3 to 4 small meals per day. Although their stomachs are small if you overfeed them they could get sick and have stomach problems. Spreading their meals out throughout the day in regular intervals is best to avoid any upsets. Look for a balanced, complete puppy food for large breed dogs. As a large breed dog, your German Shepherd you should only feed your puppy food that is specially formulated for large breed puppies. Large breed puppies have different nutritional needs that are not found in ordinary puppy food. Feeding a commercially available food that is formulated for large breed puppies helps them to grow at a sustained rate. Steady growth in a large breed puppy helps to avoid stress on their bones and gives them a strong skeletal foundation for their athletic muscles. Limiting food intake in growing German Shepherd puppies has also been associated with fewer signs of hip dysplasia. This is of extreme importance in this breed due to the high incidence of hip problems and the pain associated with this joint disorder. A growing puppy is best fed a proprietary pet food that has been specifically formulated to meet its nutritional needs. Foods that are available as dry kibble are especially suitable to rear even the youngest of puppies. Opt for this specially formulated food for large breed puppies to keep your dog growing at a healthy rate that helps them stay strong. It is a complete balanced diet so nothing is missing. Within the first few days of arriving to their new home with you is a stressful time. Your puppy has just made a drastic life change and left everything they knew to be with you. Diarrhea and other stomach issues are sometimes stress induced. You can help your puppy by keeping to a regular feeding schedule and feeding them the same food they were on before coming to you. Sometimes diarrhea is also a sign of an underlying health issue and, if left untreated, can become life-threatening. If your puppy vomits blood, has bloody stools and diarrhea, becomes lethargic, or refuses to drink, call your vet immediately! To an 8-week-old German Shepherd puppy biting and nipping are all part of playing with their siblings. And, your puppy will most likely bite and nip you at some point too. They may even growl at you and tug at your hands or nip your ankles. This is all part of puppy play. But… It can really hurt you or make you bleed! Understanding bite inhibition means they know how to control the power of their play bites and how hard or soft they nip you. Preventing Nips and Bites If you know the right way to prevent and stop German Shepherd puppy biting, you can train your puppy to understand how to keep their razor-sharp tiny teeth from sinking into you. Instead… Offer them plenty of puppy-safe chew toys appropriate for their size. When they bite or nip you, calmly show them the toy to chew instead. Get their attention by moving the toy in a playful way around them so they begin to chase and bite the toy, instead of you or your furniture. Use these links to help you stay on the right track throughout their life. A daily German Shepherd exercise routine is a must for your high-energy breed! A daily exercise routine not only keeps them fit and healthy but also helps them develop better behavior. And you know how important it is to have a well-mannered dog! This guide has everything you need to start and keep your dog on the right track for a healthy life. So be sure to follow the right guide and advice for your German Shepherd. This information is for German Shepherds over one year of age who are healthy and without any known diseases or medical conditions. If you own an adult German Shepherd, his exercise tolerance will be almost limitless! This breed suits very active families and prefers lots of exercise daily source. They can become bored easily without a suitable daily routine. Exercises for German Shepherds The best exercises for German Shepherds move their bodies in a variety of ways while letting them explore their environment. They love to run, jump, sprint, swim, chase ball toys, fetch, tug, and catch. Walk your German Shepherd daily for the right amount of time. Walks are easy on most German Shepherds and are essential for dogs who spend much of their day indoors. Walking a German Shepherd is the most popular form of exercise for fitness and health. Walk your German Shepherd at least twice for 90 minutes Preferably split into 2 sessions in the morning and evening time Avoid extreme cold and heat to keep both of you safe Vary the surface you walk on to avoid damage to their joints from repetitive motions. Try this no-pull harness to have more control on your walks. The harness has 2 points to clip, in the front and on the back, which puts you in greater control of a wild-walking German Shepherd. The comfortable padding on the harness also helps prevent sore spots on your dog, avoiding any skin issues or fur loss. Walking Exercise Routine Two walks of 45 minutes to one hour each for an adult, healthy German Shepherd are a good start for an exercise routine to meet their needs. Remember, they require gentler exercises to avoid bone and joint damage. Jogging and running to increase endurance. German Shepherds love to run off-leash. Many German Shepherds love to run for fun with their owners. Your breed is built to move long distances over grassy, rocky, hilly terrain, and this shows in their desire for running. Look for softer surfaces to include with your daily exercise routine. Vary your surfaces for maximum health benefits. Also, running and jogging at a set pace is very repetitive on joints. Once your dog is more conditioned you can increase both the time and distance they run with you. Check their paws daily after each run to look for any sores, abrasions, or cuts. Tug-of-war game for strength and power training. German Shepherds are powerful and athletic, and they love to play games with their owners. Include simple strength training exercises at home to increase muscle mass and overall power by playing tug with your German Shepherd daily. And playing tug-of-war goes a long way in helping your Shepherd develop fuller, stronger muscles and more energy and vitality. The knots allow you to grip the rope and maintain control better while the cotton rope provides a soft surface for your German Shepherd to grip. Worried playing tug might make your German Shepherd more aggressive? German Shepherds are most active at dawn and dusk, so try to include at least 10 to 15 minutes of tug before work. Ideally, aim for tug daily if your dog enjoys the exercise. A flirt pole increases endurance. A flirt pole helps exercise your German Shepherd in small spaces. The flirt pole is a gift to worn-out German Shepherd owners! It not only helps your dog improve their basic manners and impulse control, but it also gives them a workout. And in just a few minutes of play! Look for a pole with an enticing lure to excite and interest your dog. How to Use a Flirt Pole with Your German Shepherd Lure your dog to play by dragging the toy on the ground in a large arching half-circle pattern. They chase the lure while you move the toy in different ways to keep them moving. They catch the lure and tug. You give their release or drop command and start the exercise game again. Avoid playing this game by moving the lure in tight circles or making your dog jump high in the air for it. If your dog is slipping frequently, definitely find another surface to play on. It can become damaged if left alone with your GSD or if they are allowed to tug on it excessively. Only use large arches on the ground to avoid sharp turns, especially for puppies. Include doggy squats for healthy hips. Have you heard of doggie squats for exercise? Dog squats help build strength in the large leg muscles. They also can help an aging Shepherd maintain their strength to keep them more mobile and prevent hip issues later in life. And in younger Shepherds that help give your dog the power to take on physical challenges. Dog squats are like human squats. Then, have them stand. Use treats to entice them to keep repeating the action. After two weeks, increase the reps in healthy dogs not puppies or seniors. Have your dog start with 2 sets of 5 squats and add on more squats gradually from there. Use a variety of tasty treats to keep them interested and motivated. You can increase the number of sets and reps as your dog looks more comfortable with the exercise and builds up strength in their hips. Running uphill improves muscle power and cardio health. Gently sloping hills are perfect for an exercise routine for your athletic GSD. Having your dog run uphill gives a great, free strength training workout. As your dog pushes themselves uphill, they must engage their rear leg muscles intensely. This is a great all-over bodybuilding exercise, but especially for their back end. Instead, look for a moderate rolling hill and encourage your dog by calling them up and down to you. This is also a cardio workout for you, too! Repeat this hill run a few times. Then, give your dog rest and repeat. Hill Running with Your German Shepherd Begin by exploring hill running only 2 times a week with plenty of rest in between hill runs to recover. You can gradually increase their routine to 3 to 4 times a week with longer sprints to keep their hearts in tip-top shape. A balancing disc helps improve reflexes and coordination. This is a balancing discs but only wobbles slightly on the top to avoid major falls or tumbles. The goal of balance activity is to enhance body awareness, encourage stable weight shifts, and promote stability and motor function. In a nutshell, balance exercises help teach your dog the way their body moves and how to alter their movements to adjust more easily. This means that your dog is less prone to injuries since their bodies are agile. Balancing discs are a very popular piece of exercise equipment for dogs and fitness professionals. It works by having your dog stand on the disc and using its muscles to stay balanced and stable. These are great for strengthening all muscle groups as a complete body workout. The Instability Challenge On the FitPaws balance disc, there are three basic ways to create a challenge for your dog. Have your dog place one paw on the platform and offer them a treat. Next, ask for both front paws on the board to increase difficulty. Finally, move into harder positions such as all four paws on the disc, sitting on the disk, or even backing up onto the disk with only the back paws. Balancing is also a great way to bond with your dog since they need to trust your commands and the support you provide to them. Balance Disc Exercise Routine 3 to 4 times a week start with an easy pose for your dog on the disc. As they improve their balance, increase the time slowly as you ask them to hold other poses, for example, front paws on disk, back paws on disk, and stepping on and off slowly. Sprints build muscle and cardio fitness. If you want to save your shoulder, try a dog ball launcher with your German Shepherd. And your German Shepherd naturally excels at speed because of its herding history. While excessive and sharp turns on the ground can injure your dog due to the stress of stopping, you can still play a game of catch in moderation. Instead of seeing how far you can throw the ball and having your GSD slide into the ground, aim for shooting the ball in the air a short distance in front to allow your dog to catch the ball and avoid harsh slides. You can launch tennis balls up to 50 feet in the air without exhausting your arms! Short sprints are great for burning away energy that would otherwise become pent-up anxiety in your dog. Sprints also increase lung and heart health, challenge muscles and balance, improve coordination, and make your German Shepherd happy! Instead, 3 to 4 times a week with rests during your sprints so they can catch their breath, aim for them to catch the ball from the air. Looking for the pawfect playtime for your German Shepherd? Weave poles for speed and agility. Your herding dog loves to learn to pole weave! Did you know that the German Shepherd holds the record for completing the fastest weave pole source? Nature made your breed for pole weaving! Weave poles are easy to teach by luring your dog through with a treat. Like this durable, adjustable weave pole that is easy to set up and store away, or can be adjusted quickly for beginners to learn the exercise. Set up your weave poles in your yard. Begin at one end of the weave poles and slowly lure your GSD through the poles. Reinforce their efforts with tasty rewards regularly. Once your German Shepherd has the hand of it, start narrowing the poles gradually together. This gives your dog a harder challenge. Many Shepherds love the weave and will readily enjoy it when you increase the difficulty with more poles. But some dogs, especially puppies, need extra practice to learn the weaving exercise motion. Stick with it for a great way to exercise your German Shepherd in a small area! Start slowly as they gain confidence in their new agility. Increase the challenge by adding in more poles or shortening the distance between poles. Encourage your dog to repeat the weave once they come through the end by running with them to the start of the weave poles and giving your command to weave again. Find a schedule that works for you and stick to an activity routine for the best health benefits for your companion. This means: You keep their mind active and out of trouble using puzzle games for your German Shepherd. You allow them to have a balanced social life where they interact with other dogs and people positively. Without a complete fitness and health program, your dog is likely to experience problems. And the worst part of it all? Some owners forget about starting at the most obvious foundation and neglect to give their German Shepherds the right diet. These negative behaviors can cause issues for your family that disrupts your lives. Start with a solid foundation to keep your German Shepherd healthy to avoid the fallout of poor fitness. Behavior and Mental Problems. Feed your GSD puppy a nice healthy dinner along with some fresh water to drink. Make him comfortable with a nice warm blanket and a chew toy. I know it seems like a lot and you may not have time every day to follow this type of sleep schedule. This is best case scenario. Adjust accordingly based on your lifestyle. Encourage him to rest if he seems tired. If you notice him waking up from a nap, take him outside immediately to go potty. Make sure he has a quiet place to sleep undisturbed and away from the action, especially if you have children. Teach him to sleep in his crate when you can. You can also put a little dog bed in another room for peace and refuge. Routine is key for creating sleep patterns. Your puppy will learn to go to bed when you do. Crate your puppy preferably using an adjustable partition leaving him just enough room to stand up and turn around. This will help him sleep and lessen the chance of him going potty at night. Keep him crated in your room if need be. Being close to you may help him sleep at night. Make his crate nice and cozy with a warm blanket or two on the bottom. Forget the bed as he will probably destroy it. Instead give him a couple of his favorite chew toys. Prepare for your puppy to wake up sometimes throughout the night. There is a reason puppies sleep most of the day away. The body and brain use this downtime to develop and grow. This includes their central nervous system and immune system which they need to fight off sickness and disease. Similar to humans, a lack of sleep can lead to a weakened immune system which means they are more prone to sickness or disease. German Shepherds grow at a rapid pace for the first year of their life. This means that sleep is even more crucial during this time period. Fun Fact: Dogs dream just like humans. In Closing: Sleep is vital for your German Shepherd puppy so make sure they are getting enough. There may be some sleepless nights ahead of you, especially if the crate is in your bedroom. But things will get easier the more they mature. Remember as they grow and get older, the amount of sleep they require will decline. Once they are a full-grown adult, they will sleep for about 12 to 14 hours. Stick to a consistent schedule and make sure they have a quiet place to retreat. Please leave a comment below and let us know what you think! Do you own a German Shepherd puppy? If so, what is their sleep schedule? Do you have any tips for potential owners that may help? Let us know! We would love to hear about your personal story! Share this:. Can a German Shepherd puppy start training at 8 months? How to Potty Train Your 8-week-old German Shepherd Puppy Potty training your 8-week-old German Shepherd can be stressful at first, but with a bit of persistence and patience, your puppy will learn correct behavior in no time. The potty area can be outdoors or indoors. Having a designated potty place will help your dog understand that this is the only place they should go to poop or pee. Watch Out for Signs One of the first signs is usually an increased awareness of their surroundings. You may notice that your puppy starts sniffing around more often or seems particularly interested in certain places of the house. Watch out also for changes in behavior. If your pup suddenly starts having accidents inside or seems antsy and restless, they may be trying to tell you that they need to go outside. Use Cue Words One way to help your new puppy understand what you want him to do is to use cue words. Cue words will help your German Shepherd puppy learn the connection between the words and the action. You can also use cue words when rewarding him for going in the right spot. Give Training Treats When potty training your puppy, use treats as a form of positive reinforcement. Doing this teaches your puppy that good things happen when they go outside to do their business. When choosing treats for potty training, select something small and easy to eat. This way, the puppy can eat the treat quickly and then get back to playing. It would be best if you also chose training treats that your puppy finds irresistible. Otherwise, they may not be motivated to keep trying. Puppy Crate It is an enclosure to confine your new puppy for short periods. It is also helpful in transporting puppies from one place to another. German Shepherd owners use it for crate training as they can also help with separation anxiety and boredom. Puppy crates usually have a removable tray on the bottom for easy cleaning. They also have wire, plastic, or fabric as the primary materials, and they typically come in different sizes to accommodate puppies of different ages and breeds. When buying a crate, it must be big enough for the puppy to stand up, turn around, and lie down but small enough so that the puppy does not have too much space to eliminate in one corner and sleep in the other. When used correctly, it can provide a safe, comfortable space for your new furry friend. Early Morning: Bring your Puppy Outside When your German Shepherd is a still puppy, he may have trouble holding his bladder throughout the night. If you do not let your puppy out early enough, it might create potty accidents because he cannot control their bladder. Morning: Time for a Nutritious Breakfast Puppies need a lot of nutrients to grow up healthy and strong. A nutritious breakfast helps them get the energy they need to start the day. Even though puppies spend most of their time sleeping and cuddling, puppies require several daily feedings. Place your puppy on your lap and snuggle while sleeping. It would be best if you also let them rest throughout the day. Afternoon: Lunchtime Take your puppy outside after lunch to relieve themselves. Allow your puppy time to exercise and release any built-up energy. Feeding your puppy .Between naps, you can do playtime and training activities to help release energy, encourage physical activity, and develop a strong bond between you and your German Shepherd. Evening: Last meal of the Day During the evening, feed your puppy their fourth and last meal. Afterward, take your puppy for a short stroll. Before returning, have your puppy go potty outside, then snuggle up on the sofa for some quality time. Night: Potty Break Before Bedtime Take your puppy out for one more potty time before putting him to bed. Remember that you should establish a reasonable bedtime for your puppy early on. Moreover, an 8-week-old German Shepherd may develop a better appetite for other solid meals. These include constipation, bloating, and diarrhea. Diarrhea Diarrhea is a common problem that many German Shepherd puppies face. This condition has several possible causes, including dietary indiscretion, viral infections, and intestinal parasites. In most cases, diarrhea is not a serious concern and will resolve itself within a few days. However, seek veterinary care if your puppy displays other symptoms such as lethargy, vomiting, or lack of appetite. Constipation A young German Shepherd is particularly susceptible to constipation due to their large, muscular build and fast metabolism. If your puppy is constipated, you may notice that he has difficulty passing stool and seems uncomfortable or restless. If your puppy is constipated, take him to the vet for treatment. The vet may give him a laxative or enema to help relieve constipation. Bloating Bloating occurs when the stomach fills with gas, causing it to swell. German Shepherds are especially prone to bloating because of their deep chests. There are several possible causes of bloating, including eating too fast, drinking too much water, and exercising immediately after eating. Stress can also be a factor. To prevent bloating, feed your German Shepherd several small meals daily instead of one large meal. It is also important to avoid exercising immediately after eating and ensure that your dog has access to fresh water. Yes, a German Shepherd puppy can start training at eight months. But remember that every puppy is different and will learn at its own pace. Consistency is key, and with patience, your puppy will get the hang of obedience training in no time. Training should be a bonding experience for you and your pup! Remember to have fun and keep it light. At eight weeks old, a German Shepherd puppy sleeps for around 18 hours daily. It may seem like a lot, but puppies need a lot of sleep to grow and develop properly. As they get older, German Shepherds will sleep for less time each day. German Shepherd puppies use their mouths to explore their surroundings and socialize with other dogs and people. In addition, puppies typically start teething around eight weeks old, which can cause them to bite more as they try to relieve the discomfort caused by their emerging teeth. Puppies also explore the world with their mouths, and biting is a way for them to learn about their environment. In addition, puppies may bite out of excitement or frustration, especially if they are not getting enough exercise. If your puppy is biting excessively, provide him with plenty of chew toys and opportunities to run and play. Also read:. Doggy Squats Do you know how humans do squats as a pretty standard exercise within fitness routines? Well, dogs have their very own version of squats that they can do too! German Shepherds are at a very high risk of developing hip problems as they grow older, so this is a very good exercise to have them practice every now and then. The squats can also be a very mentally stimulating exercise for your German Shepherd, and you should include treats in order to ensure they are done correctly and your dog follows your precise instructions. And to prevent your German Shepherd from eventually getting bored and losing interest, you can switch up the location of where you practice the squats, choosing different surfaces and using different treats. But how do you get your dog to squat? Easy, just follow these steps: Have your dog sit, following the sit command you have in place. Then, command your dog to stand. Do this a few times, so that your dog is performing a repetitive motion of sitting and standing, sitting and standing. This is their version of the squat. Use treats to reward each squat so that your dog is engaged and eager to follow the instructions. Start with reps of 5 squats, and increase the number of sets as your dog progresses over time. Be careful not to overdo it! Exercise Routine: Do a few sets of squats two or three times a week. However, if you suspect that your dog might have any hip issues, do not perform any squats, as this could make the issues worse. Playing with a Balancing Disk Balancing disks are really popular amongst dog exercise gear, and the great thing about them is that they can be used right at home, without the need for much space, making them pretty convenient! The balancing disk is great for improving reflexes, which in turn can prevent any clumsy falls for your dog. It also enhances body awareness, making your dog more in control overall of every movement. So your dog will be more agile, less prone to injuries, and will have better muscle reflexes. To use it, your dog essentially has to balance on the disk, by standing on top of it and staying as stable as possible. There are also various challenges you can add to the exercise, such as: Have your dog stand on the balancing disk, then give your dog gentle shoves and pushes, moving them, so that they have to readjust their body and position. Move the balancing disk while your dog is on it, so that balance becomes harder. Increase the difficulty of the exercise by giving your dog less harness support, or getting a smaller disk. Make sure you have plenty of treats to encourage your dog to perform well! The exercise can also help you bond with your German Shepherd, and it can be a very mentally stimulating activity that your dog will likely grow to love! Exercise Routine: Perform this exercise with your dog around three to four times a week. Start with the easiest levels, and slowly increase the challenge over time. Playing with a Flirt Pole A flirt pole is essentially like a giant cat toy. This item is absolutely perfect for German Shepherd owners that are a little tired out, as it allows you to exercise your dog without you having to move much! This can be turned into a really fun game to keep your dog entertained, but it also helps increase endurance and focus. Plus, if done well, it also teaches your German Shepherd to handle impulse control and to listen to basic commands when hyped up. To use the flirt pole, follow these steps: Tempt your dog into playing with the flirt pole, by dragging it across the floor in front of them and making the lure at the end move in circular patterns. Move the toy in different directions and at different speeds, while your dog chases it. Once your dog catches the lure, play a bit of tug. Give your dog the command to drop the lure, reward, then start all over again. You could be sitting on the sofa throughout this whole game, and meanwhile, your dog will be expending a lot of energy and having a lot of fun. Exercise Routine: Practice this exercise two to three times a week. Make sure you are on a soft surface such as carpet or grass, in order to avoid any injury. Playing with a Spring Pole A spring pole is an excellent item to have, as it allows your German Shepherd to play with themselves, tugging and pulling and overall using up a lot of energy. And meanwhile, you can just watch and chill! You could even have it set up in your garden! The dog can catch the lure and tug at it, and the pole will bend and move about but will stay stuck to the ground, so your dog will never quite win but keep on trying until fully tired. These are also made to attach directly to trees, which are often even easier options. This exercise enhances the power and strength of your German Shepherd, and it covers their athletic needs, as well as being a mentally stimulating game for them. Grass is ideal. Running The best way to make sure that you and your dog both get that cardio in is a good jog. German Shepherds are incredibly athletic and therefore are built for running. The best way to do this is over various different surfaces so that your dog gets a break from concrete floors, which can be hard on the joints. You should also combine different paces so that running does not become repetitive or boring. Have some slow running and then some intermittent sprinting now and then! Running is a great exercise and your dog will love it. Just avoid doing this with puppies, as they need to have fully fused bones before they can do this safely. Exercise Routine: Go for a run with your adult and healthy German Shepherd around three to four times a week. Allow for plenty of rest afterward, to avoid overworking your dog. Running Uphill Running uphill is harder than running on an even surface or even downhill, so it makes sense that this would be a more intense exercise that provides different benefits to simply running. When your German Shepherd runs uphill, they are getting bonus strength training, as they will be engaging their rear legs and muscles in a far more intense way. Or you can simply throw a ball or similar uphill for them to retrieve, saving you from the effort. Just make sure to pick moderate hills. If they are too steep they might be too big an ask of your dog and could end up causing injuries down the line. Make sure to use moderate hills, not too steep. Sprints German Shepherds are incredibly athletic dogs, with a lot of energy. They were originally bred as working dogs, and have a history of herding. This means that sprinting exercises are excellent for them, as well as being a lot of fun and very mentally engaging. Sprinting can significantly enhance their cardio fitness, as well as help build muscle and strength. It is also a great way for them to use up their energy, and it is highly mentally stimulating for them, especially if the sprinting is turned into a game. The best way to perform this exercise is by using a tennis ball launcher or similar. Something that will throw an object far away at a very high speed, for your dog to chase. In order to catch it, your dog will have to sprint really fast. The best surface to do this on is grass, or any other surface with good traction so that your dog does not slip and fall! Exercise Routine: You should perform this exercise around three to four times a week, allowing for breaks and rests in between sets of sprints. You should avoid doing it during hot or humid days. Make sure your dog gets plenty of water afterward! They are also highly intelligent and love completing exercises and training, as they were originally bred for working. This means that weave poles are an excellent exercise that your German Shepherd will not only enjoy but excel at. Weave poles can be really fun for your dog, and they will significantly enhance both speed and agility. They are also great for teaching focus, and for getting your dog to follow your lead instantly. There are plenty of weave poles available in the market, and you can easily set some up in your garden, or take some with you to the park. The grass is the most ideal surface for this exercise. To perform this exercise, follow these steps: Set up the weave poles in your garden, yard, or similar. You can adjust the difficulty, starting off with wider spaces between the poles for the easiest level. Use treats to lure and guide your dog from one end of the poles to the other, by walking in zig-zag between them. Insert a command word, so that your dog knows it has to go through the weave poles, to the end, in order to get a treat. Slowly increase the speed. Eventually, you can stand at the other end, give the command, and your dog will perform the exercise. Start timing your dog and upping the difficulty. Reward always at the end, once your dog has made it through the weave pole. If your German Shepherd ends up being really good at this exercise, you could maybe even end up in an agility competition, who knows! Exercise Routine: Practice this exercise two to three times a week, slowly increasing the difficulty and challenging your dog to get faster each time. Make sure to use plenty of treats! But why should you exercise your German Shepherd? Is it really that important? It is. In fact, here are some of the main negative consequences of not exercising your German Shepherd: Health and Weight Problems: Lack of coordination and strength Joint problems Obesity and other weight problems Muscle atrophy. Check Price on Amazon 1. If the puppy is running towards you, for example, you can begin clapping. For now, notice the following and set distinct anchors for each. For the time being, you should avoid anchors that are excessively similar to one another. My German Shepherd Willow — 8 weeks old 2. As you train your pup to understand and respond to more complex commands, this helps eliminate a lot of the resistance. As a result, the initial step should be to persuade your German Shepherd to stick close to you. We all know that dogs are descended from wolves, and wolves follow the pack leader, which means you! Needless to say, when training a 2-month-old German Shepherd puppy, you have to incentivize him to follow you. You need to build a positive reinforcement loop and let your German Shepherd establish an association between following you and receiving a pleasant experience. You can start taking unexpected turns and training your puppy to follow you despite the direction changes after your puppy has become motivated to follow you for the reward. At a young age, you should take your puppy out and about and allow him to utilize his sociability potential. One method is to pay visits to friends and family. You might also look for a dog park and take him there. Keep in mind that your pet is still learning to walk with you and follow directions. Make sure your pup has a positive experience outdoors. It is worth noting that you should socialize and introduce him to new experiences as often as you can, preferably daily. Start Potty Training You should start potty training your German Shepherd puppy the first day you bring him home. Start by showing your pup where you want him to potty, such as a sectioned-off area of your yard or garden. I cordoned off a small area and added some bark chippings. Even now, my GSD will not go on the sidewalk or hard surfaces! It has to be grass or somewhere soft. Next, you need a potty training schedule. Always take your puppy out first thing in the morning, after mealtimes and play, hourly, and before retiring to bed. Deter Biting If you read my blog regularly, you know that I am opposed to punishment-based training. In any case, using physical force or yelling at your pup will only instill fear and distrust and can actually cause aggression. If someone recommends such negative approaches, you should approach a qualified trainer and learn how to train a German Shepherd puppy not to bite. Instead, you can wait until your GSD bites during a positive activity before stopping it. This will help to anchor the result better. For example, if your German Shepherd puppy fiercely takes a treat from your hand, you can withhold the second treat until he learns to take it gently. You should act upset and convey that what he has done has hurt you. Use positive reinforcement to encourage proper behavior by rewarding with a treat. Your German Shepherd will quickly learn that good behavior is rewarded with good things. Puppies must continue to learn bite inhibition soft-mouth by continuing the work their mother taught them and what they learned from their littermates. Learn Bite Inhibition Training! Instill Patience You have to use your best judgment and patience when training your dog. In general, by the tenth week, your German Shepherd will be mature enough to understand self-control. Teach the Heel Position While your 3-month-old German Shepherd puppy will initially follow you, adjusting your pace will soon have him walking alongside you in the heel position, on your left side, without a leash, harness, or fear of punishment. To train your puppy to assume the natural heel position, use a clicker, whistle, or use your voice as a marker. Chances are, at first, your German Shepherd will also try to change his pace to walk behind you because of habit. You can avoid this problem by walking where your dog is used to. Assume Positions on Command — Sit, Down, Stand Your 3-months old German Shepherd puppy is now old enough to learn how to sit, stand, or hold a down position. You can teach him these new skills and assume a heel stance, which you have previously taught him. So by the time he is four months old, you can use the position cues and positive reinforcement to get your dog to follow. These included a clicker, whistle, clap, or saying a specific word to show your German Shepherd is doing a good job, generally followed by a well-deserved treat. Now is the time to see whether the anchors work! You used to whistle when your GSD approached you; now, you must whistle for him to start his run. This is the foundation of his recall training. While this allows the puppy to be more social when visitors arrive, an adult dog must learn to walk outside without behaving badly. Whether it is a cuddle, a pat, attention, or something tasty, you must teach your pup target training, for example, teaching him to touch a target with a specific part of his body, such as his paw or nose. Remember that your German Shepherd may end up biting or clawing to communicate if you do not teach him more acceptable communication methods. I recommend teaching your German Shepherd to use his nose to touch your hand. This is a fantastic bite substitute! Hand targeting is a fun way to train your dog to trust you while also getting him to use his brain! Begin by asking him to sit for a few seconds and gradually extend the time. Train Your Dog to Fetch If you have taken your German Shepherd to public parks and he has watched other dogs play fetch, it will be easier to teach him to retrieve whatever you throw. Your GSD may not bring the toy back to you for a second time, but he will eventually figure it out. Over the next few weeks, you can gradually turn it into a game of fetch, rewarding your puppy with high-value training treats. Continue Potty Training In the fourth month of German Shepherd training, you will continue toilet training to a degree of independence. Maintain a regular schedule and match your walks with his natural cycle to coincide with when he needs to go. Teach Your German Shepherd to Walk on the Leash Learning to walk on a leash outside is an important element of dog training. Use it to control your German Shepherd and then test his ability to follow commands off-leash. Many dog owners will opt for a rear attached harness. How to Train a 5 Month Old German Shepherd Puppy You have adequately socialized and trained your dog to recognize and associate attention, toys, walks, and food as rewards. Your five-month-old German Shepherd puppy is now ready to be put to the test for general obedience and the capacity to deal with distractions. These could be other dogs, strangers, or animals like squirrels or birds. But, if you introduce distractions gradually, your five-month-old puppy can deal with them. You must be ready for your dog to run ahead of you now! Assume, however, that you have built a strong bond with your puppy and worked on his training. In that case, he will stay close to you and prove his loyalty by sticking by your side. The good news is that all of your past training will make it easier for your dog to obey your instructions. Conclude Potty Training Your German Shepherd has had months to learn how to tell you his need to go potty. He has also likely refined how to hold his bladder instead of peeing on the floor. As a result, if your dog makes a mess, you can express your displeasure through your body language. But, all dogs can still have the odd accident up to one year old. Besides, you must be prepared for your dog to relieve himself indoors if he is excited or frightened. This is known as either excitement or submissive urination. During this time, energy levels increase , especially in larger breed dogs. While the average exercise for a pup before this is generally five minutes of exercise per month of age, twice a day, a six-month-old German Shepherd can exercise for one hour if you split his walks into two thirty-minute sessions. To train your 6-month-old German Shepherd puppy, start with two commands that will be most useful. As previously stated, you will be exercising your German Shepherd much more frequently from now on. You can teach these commands or tricks in any order from six months onwards until your German Shepherd is a well-trained adult. This is an excellent skill to teach your GSD and is one of the commands taught to police and protection dogs. This is a difficult task, but your German Shepherd will eventually master it if you practice and keep consistent. The eighth month is the time for training your German Shepherd to go to different places upon hearing your command word. This could be for practical reasons or to maximize the intellect of your dog. Alternatively, you might spend the ninth month teaching him a fun party trick! Teach Your German Shepherd to Spin By dangling a tasty treat in front of your German Shepherd and moving it in a circle until he starts to spin, you prime him for a command anchor. After a week or so, you teach your German Shepherd to follow your finger without first using a treat. Of course, you will still need to reward him after he obeys the command. By the third week, you should be able to ask your dog to spin without using your finger to guide him. It might take an extra couple of weeks, but I recommend this as an addition in the ninth month because it allows you to continue training your dog to learn previous commands better. You can train him to go to different places, hold or release objects, and fetch toys. You can now develop this further and teach him to roll over on command. Your one-year-old German Shepherd continues to learn at the same rate as he has since he was six months old. What will change is that your dog will interact with other people more frequently. You can train him to do additional tricks to give him a more appealing presence. This will deter him from merely barking for attention. You should also review previously taught commands and see any weak associations you can reinforce. If anything, this is the period where you tailor his training to your convenience. But now is the time when your German Shepherd must learn to be harmonious with your life. From the month mark onwards, you must train your doggo to be compatible with modern adult life within reason. Do not be alarmed if you have an month-old German Shepherd who appears to have had no previous training! Start by establishing authority by having a positive yet commanding presence. Once your new friend recognizes your authority and sees you as his leader, treat him as a six-month-old, albeit on an accelerated schedule, and train him accordingly. You should train your German Shepherd puppy for short and frequent sessions, ideally minutes, several times a day. As your puppy grows and matures, you can gradually increase the duration and complexity of the training sessions. What are the most important commands to teach my German Shepherd puppy? Come command helps to call your puppy back to you in case of an emergency or when you want to end a play session. Heel command teaches your puppy to walk calmly beside you on a leash, and Leave It command helps to prevent your puppy from eating something harmful or dangerous. German Shepherds are a highly trainable and intelligent breed. Your job as a trainer becomes even easier once you have a workable training schedule in place and stick to your routine. My month-by-month German Shepherd puppy training schedule will help you successfully train your doggo and make him into the cherished companion you always desired. Good luck with your training! Related Posts You May Like:. This article is designed to help you along your way. This is completely normal. Every new puppy owner has their moments of frustration and doubt. Remember that your 8-week-old German Shepherd puppy is going through a big life change, too. She may be feeling stressed and out of sorts when you first bring her home. Consistency and structure will go a long way toward helping both of you. Introducing The Puppy Crate A crate can be your best friend when it comes to caring for your 8-week-old puppy. While some people think of crates as cruel, the reality is that with the right training, your puppy will think of her crate as a safe, quiet space where she can go to relax. If you leave your puppy unsupervised at home, you may come back to find a whole lot of destruction. Puppies can get into all kinds of trouble on their own, with their natural curiosity and desire to chomp down on just about everything in their path. A crate can help you keep your German Shepherd puppy — and your belongings! While every puppy is different, chances are your daily schedule for the first week will look a little bit like this: Early morning: Time for the first potty break of the day! Breakfast time: You can feed your puppy breakfast right after her first potty break, or wait a little longer and let her go back to sleep first. Mid-morning: Time for another small meal, and another potty break. Afternoon: Lunchtime followed by a potty break. Late afternoon: Another potty break! Evening: Dinner, and then — you guessed it — potty time. Just before bed: One last trip outside before you turn in for the night. In between potty and mealtimes, your puppy will probably be playing or napping. Scheduling play and exercise at the same times every day can help ensure that you get that nice, quiet naptime right on schedule, too. Potty Training an 8 Week Old German Shepherd Potty training can be one of the most daunting tasks of raising a brand new puppy. It may take a bit longer than you expected for your puppy to get the hang of things! Your puppy has never been apart from her siblings and mother before. The best way to avoid a night full of mournful wailing is to let your puppy sleep in your room, at least in the beginning. Safer ways to keep your puppy comfortable and contained at night include keeping her crate beside your bed, setting up a puppy playpen, or even just using a tall cardboard box. In fact, an 8-week-old puppy can spend as many as 18 hours a day sleeping! This helps keep some element of consistency in her routine and her stomach. If you do decide to switch over to a different food after a few weeks, do so in stages. You can then increase that slowly over time. At 8 weeks old, German Shepherd puppies should be fed three to four times per day. Because the German Shepherd is a large breed, you should also feed your puppy a diet formulated specifically for large breed puppies. There are many commercially available diets made to help large breed puppies grow at the right rate. This helps to avoid skeletal abnormalities like hip dysplasia. Want more information on what to feed your 8-week-old German Shepherd, and how to change her diet as she gets older? We have everything you need to know right here in our guide to feeding a German Shepherd puppy. The stress of such a drastic life change can manifest in different ways, and an upset stomach is a pretty common reaction. You can give your pup a better chance of having a settled stomach by keeping her on the food she was eating before you brought her home, and feeding on a consistent schedule. Diarrhea can also be a sign of an underlying issue besides stress, however, and severe diarrhea can be life-threatening if left untreated. Your 8-week-old German Shepherd puppy is likely to bite you too, for exactly the same reason. She may even growl. And it really can hurt! Your Growing Dog As your German Shepherd puppy grows, our guides will help you care for her throughout her life. Here are a few links to get you started:.

They thrive on human interaction and love to be involved in everything their family is doing. Miniature Poodles are quick learners and excel at obedience training. Very eager to please their people, they are a great choice for first-time dog owners. Mini Poodles are usually good with other dogs and children, but they can be a little bit reserved around strangers. With proper socialization from a young age, your Mini Poodle puppy will learn to interact well with people outside of their immediate family. Expect your new for-ever family member to have a lot of energy and need plenty of exercise. They need an outdoor walk every day to keep calm and centered. Check out this best-selling dog leash with a comfortable handle! While walks are a must, the Mini Poodle is not suited to be an outdoor dog. This breed has a long history as a circus dog, so this dog is a favorite choice for owners who want an athletic puppy who is open to learning tricks. Some Mini Poodles are territorial and highly excitable, but patient and consistent training can usually modify this behavior. For all of these reasons, finding homes for our Mini Poodle Puppies for sale is never challenging. Minatare Poodle Health Considerations The average life span of the miniature poodle is 13 — 15 years. Use ear cleaner wipes and eye wipes regularly to remove crust or discharge. All breeds of dogs should be brought in for regular vet checkups. Miniature Poodle Coat The Mini Poodle has a hypoallergenic coat which is excellent for allergy sufferers. Matting eventually causes skin irritation. If your Poodle has a long coat, you should brush out your Poodle every day. Check out this popular dog slicker brush and detangling comb that is perfect for your Mini Poodle. While Miniature Poodles are a fairly low-shedding dog breed, they still need coat care. Many Poodle owners opt for a short cut or trim to minimize grooming needs. When a shorter cut, you can reduce brush outs to a few times a week and get the coat trimmed up every weeks. Mini Poodles Puppies For Sale. They have been running around outside it's a lovely day here in CT! A flight attendant from Delta also spotted her and just wouldn't put her down, even taking her behind the counter to do her work! By the way, your children were so wonderful when we met.Our Standard Poodles do not live in kennels.They are a part of our families--my sisters and mine. They spend each day with our kids, ranging from toddlers to teenagers. Between my sister and I we have two males and two female Standard Poodles. They are a wonderful part of each of our families, and are incredibly well socialized with children and other dogs. In fact, "socialized" is an understatement. Each of our dogs have exceptional characteristics. Our poodles compliment each other incredibly well. Zoe is intelligent, eager to please, and loving she is the "mother hen" of our kids and Zion is very affectionate, engaging, sociable, and comes from a long line of wonderful therapy dogs. They make phenominal puppies. Ireland gives us some gorgeous colors--red and bright apricot.All of our puppies are very kid friendly, loyal, and nurturing. You probably have an idea of what tremendous dogs standard poodles are or you wouldn't be on our site. But, let me just tell you what our families love about our standards also check out the resources on our links page. Prince Zion -- jet black standard poodle stud. Look around our website and if you have any comments or questions, please feel free to contact us. We hope to see you again! Check back later for new updates to our website. There's much more to come! Cream standard poodle puppy. Our first priority, in the process of selecting our standard poodles, is health and temperament. Because of research and selection, we are able to combine these two conformation types to produce a superb, well-rounded Standard Poodle puppy who can be your newest family member. The Poodle Club of America is, of course, made up of humans that are pretty special, amazing and dedicated people. They write the standards for the breed, and the standard has to some extent changed the original look and purpose of the Standard Poodle. Our primary goal is to enrich the very small gene bank of the Standard Poodle pedigrees, which is and will continue to be the best weapon against genetic disorders. The preceding statements may raise some eyebrows and ruffle some feathers. It might even become a topic on Poodle Forum, but we stand firm in our belief and respect those who disagree. Again, because of our selective breeding, we can produce every color available in the breed of Standard Poodles. We have white standard poodles, cream standard poodles, apricot standard poodles, and red standard poodles. We offer the striking colors of jet black standard poodles, blue standard poodles, grey standard poodles, and silver standard poodles. In , after lots of research and prayer, we added the ability to produce the very controversial colors of phantom standard poodles and parti standard poodles. We also have brindle standard poodles and sable standard poodles. We are concentrating on the diversity of these colors by crossing our solid color Gentlemen with our parti and phantom Ladies. In the selection of our color variety of Standard Poodle Ladies we are striving to improve on the health and conformation. These colors are allowed to be registered with the AKC but not allowed in the conformation show ring. Our hope someday is that the non-solid variety of a Standard Poodle will be accepted in the show ring as a color variety just as the Cocker Spaniels and other breeds of color. However, a self-portrait of Rembrandt shows him with his parti colored standard poodle, in ! To see early history pictures and read more about the origin of these poodles of color, please click here. Below are slideshows of our Canine Ladies and along with links to their Pedigrees and any Health Testing. I have worked very close with my mom now for many years. I try very hard to be the manager, but my mom, who is supposed to be retiring in , sometimes has a hard time letting go. My mom and my sister Holley, helped me design and write the website in the beginning. I did all the technical work on the website as well as the routine updates. I was finally able to pass that on to my Aunt Beth when she came on board. I designed and created all of our forms and records we use in our daily work and routines, i. One of the most fascinating things I do is the research on color genetics and then studying the pedigrees for low co-efficiency. I give advice where needed as a nurse and mid-wife. I also spend a great deal of time with our Standard Poodle puppies. I thoroughly enjoy the responsibility of examining and performing our socializing protocol with our Standard Poodle puppies. In addition to taking care of our puppies at a young age, I work with the ones we keep and the ones we buy for our breeding program; on leash training, crate training, basic commands and socialization. I can often be found in the pictures and videos as well. During these times I receive a lot of puppy kisses and I get to smell the sweet scent of puppy breath. I am very involved and busy in the public relations department. I take very serious the responsibility of placing our puppies into the right forever home. This is exceptionally important to all of us and I assure you we all take it very seriously! I also manage our relationships with other reputable Standard Poodle breeders. I appreciate all your phone calls and emails, so daily, many hours are spent fielding your questions about Standard Poodles. All Standard Poodles possess specific qualities, but with varying degrees of these qualities. I make it my mission to get to know each potential new puppy owner and introduce them to puppies who match their lifestyle and personality. Darlene and April and the other ladies here, also meet and greet our families and help in the role of placing puppies in their forever home as well. Her wisdom and talent have proven to be outstanding in the design of our breeding facility and the structure of the entire breeding program. The knowledge she has passed on to me is invaluable. It makes me so conscious of the importance of superior maintenance and routine repair of the grounds. Mom still helps me answer health questions or training issues that her years of experience better qualify her to answer. I am still learning and am sure I will for many more years to come. Most of the website photography, up until was done by my mom with all of us behind the scenes making all kinds of weird noises to get the canine Ladies and Gentlemen as well as puppies to look at the camera and smile. She still is editing and preparing the photos for the website which she enjoys very much. She also did our co-efficiency work-ups and kept our pedigrees up to date with our canine Lady and Gentlemen information. In addition to all of this, Holley handled our litter registrations and all of our AKC paperwork. She was in charge of getting our contracts and guarantees to you. She also helped me reply to emails and phone calls from you about our standard poodle babies. Late in Holley weaned herself from working full time with our Standard Poodles because she was offered a wonderful opportunity to go back to her first love of training and showing American Saddlebreds. She works with an amazing woman who has shown and trained Saddlebreds for years. My mom is very thankful to Mary Ann for giving Holley the chance to do what she loves best and is such a great mentor and friend to Holley. Holley helps train and works the horses and has a great riding lesson program for children. Now I have been able to relinquish those responsibilities to April and my Aunt Beth. Blake is now a wonderful stay at home dad to our son born July 28, .She started out doing the daily poop scooping, cleaning, feeding and watering. She gave vaccines and medications. The list was endless. No one can deal with all of us with a smile every day. Her winning smile and her bubbly personality adds to the comradery among our team. Darlene now helps me manage the kennel and is the official full time groomer of all our Family Affair Standard Poodles. Our Standard Poodle puppies get their first face and tail haircut, ear cleaning and nail cutting from Darlene. Each of our adult Standard Poodles get groomed every 8 to 10 weeks, so the grooming is a never-ending cycle. Then moms and puppies are let out into their yards and exercise runs to potty and play all day. We are so blessed to have Darlene. She is pictured below with her beloved Raven. Although her first canine love is her Miniature Dachshunds, she is as dedicated to our Standard Poodle Ladies and Gentlemen and our Standard Poodle puppies as we are. Darlene is loved and appreciated by all of us, and enjoys spending time with us even on her days off. I think we can make it happen! She was very responsible and dedicated at that young age. When she wanted to join our team again at the age of 25, we were very pleased. She came back to us on a part time basis in early .She was reliable and observant when examining and observing puppies and adults. We quickly realized she was also a great asset in the office and computer department as well. In just a few months, she started full time and then took over a lot of the task Darlene had been responsible for over the years. Erica begins her day with a quick hands-on inspection of all the babies. She gives medication, routine wormers and vaccines. Erica weighs and individually identifies each puppy with different colors of fingernail polish the day they are born. For three weeks all our Standard Poodle puppies are weighed every day. All of that attention to babies must have affected her, because in early , Erica gave birth to a beautiful baby girl that looks like a china doll. Her name is Kaelyn. We are looking forward to working with Erica for many years to come and watching Kaelyn grow up.

With over 20 years of experience, we have shared our Labradoodle Puppies with families across this Country, and around the world. As an Authentic Australian Labradoodle Breeder, we offer our Riverbend Australian Labradoodle puppies in Miniature sizes lbs , Medium sizes 45lbs , and Standard sizes lbs. Because of our years of experience and success with our English Style Labrador Retriever Breeding Program , our Riverbend Labradoodles are stocky, heavy-boned, and have a beautiful, blocky style of head that gives them a soft, intuitive expression. We are so blessed to be involved with a fantastic Worldwide Labradoodle Breed organization, bringing together nearly Breeders from the United States, Canada, Europe, and Australia that are dedicated to protecting the breed we love so much. We are honored at the opportunity to help protect and promote the breed we love so much with our participation in these organizations. Our commitment to quality and accountability to these organizations offers peace of mind in purchasing one of our Australian Labradoodle puppies. Our Labradoodles have allergy friendly coats that are non-shedding, and we are dedicated to helping people with allergies add to their family. Our Labradoodles are known to have a laid- back, easy-going temperament, and are great family companions. They are intelligent and easy to train, and typically finish at the top of their obedience classes. Here at Riverbend, we have made it our focus to protect the health and future, while maintaining the integrity, of the Labradoodle breed. Our carefully planned breeding program is dedicated to Quality, not quantity. We believe it is of utmost importance to have OFA hip, OFA elbow, ACVO eye clearances, and also breed specific health clearances, as well as Champion Quality pedigrees within all of our dogs' bloodlines, to ensure we have the healthiest Labradoodle Puppies possible. Take a look at Our Dogs. All of our Riverbend puppies are raised in our home for proper socialization and handling from birth. Our home is designed for our puppies to live with us, so we can provide a healthy environment, to build the foundation that will help them grow to their full potential. Paying attention to how a puppy grows, from the day he is born, is important for the very health and vitality of each puppy. And, we believe that the first eight weeks of a puppy's life, is of vital importance in determining his later behavior as an adult. We share our Australian Labradoodle Puppies with loving caring families, and you can be confident that our puppies are handled continuously, are exposed to our everyday life, and everyday noises, to create a positive social experience that will enable them to become lifelong companions. We hope that you enjoy our website and find it easy to navigate, helpful, informative, and fun. If you have any questions or would like more information about this fantastic breed, please feel free to contact us by phone or email. We love sharing our Riverbend Labradoodles with others, and welcome all inquiries concerning them. Support an American Company and Small Business! We are confident these products are the best for your furry family member and we refuse to use anything else! To play, press and hold the enter key. To stop, release the enter key. Communicating with Jenna made things go so much smoother and she has an uncanny ability to help choose the right personality to fit your family's lifestyle. We now have two of the most beautiful pups!!! And we owe it all to Jenna with her guidance. The love that she has for her babies is such a commitment from the second they are born. If you are considering Greystone Australian Labradoodles as your choice, you will not be disappointed! Such an awesome and loving family producing the most beautiful pups:. We have had the best experience working with Greystone! They truly love and care about their dogs. It is NOT a puppy mill or even close, these are loved on family dogs! We cannot say enough great things about our experience! And…they are seriously the best dogs! We are completely obsessed with our doodle! If I could give more than 5 stars, I would. We got our puppy from Greystone in January. From the very begging of the process and up until now, they have been incredible. They answered numerous questions before hand and even when I need guidance with my puppy at home. They want the absolute best for their litters and you can truly tell how much love they put into getting these babies to the best home possible. We could not be happier with our little baby, Gino. He is an abustle joy and everything we could have wished for, and more. Would recommend Greystone to anyone who is looking for an Australian Labradoodle, they are the absolute best!!! We are an Australian labradoodle breeder specializing in authentic top quality Australian Labradoodle puppies in mini, and medium sizes. Sharing our puppies with families since , we have established our breeding program with fully tested breeding stock that can be traced back to the very earliest bloodlines. Located north of Dayton, Ohio in the rural area of Conover. We have shared our puppies across the US. Check out our available puppies page to learn about each one Latest News September Puppies available! Head to our available puppies page to see who is waiting to be your next family member! Available Puppies Boarding Available We are now offering boarding for our puppy families. Now taking reservations for fall. Spaces limited call Boarding Information Offering in home- training Did you know our trainer offers an in home board and train program? Get a head start before puppy goes home. Here our puppy will stay with the trainer and learn basic obedience, house training crate training, learn proper manners and receive lots of socialization to people and places. Why us Superb Temperament Australian labradoodles are known for their amazing temperament. Our love for this breed began with our first Australian labradoodle, Georgia pictured below in the snow. She taught us what the Australian labradoodle was all about. With her intuitive connection, and sociable personality, we fell in love instantly and so did everyone who met her. She was a joy to train, willing to please, gentle, and just as funny as she was affectionate. Due to their extreme willingness to please and ability to train, a percentage of our dogs have gone on to do therapy and service work. Nourishing Environment Puppies like babies need nurturing and human interaction. We are asking them to live in our world so the more human experiences they can have before going home, the easier the transition. We utilize Early neurological stimulation, Early Scent Introduction, Puppy Culture, a 10 step handling exercise, as well as extensive socialization to raise the most well-balanced dogs. All of our dogs are fed a high quality, all natural diet, for maximum health. We believe in a holistic approach to the well being of our dogs, and they are minimally vaccinated. Excellent Health While we have a strong emphasis for temperament, having a sound, physically healthy puppy is of upmost importance. Healthy puppies begin with the parents. Our breeding dogs have to meet strict requirements to enter the program. We start with carefully selected breeding stock coming from a controlled breeding line. Our Labradoodles have allergy friendly coats that are non-shedding, and we love helping people with allergies add to their family. As a registered member of the Worldwide Australian labradoodles Association, WALA our breeding program along with hundreds of other programs across the world, are dedicated to ethical breeding, and continued focus on the improvement of the Australian labradoodle breed. Worldwide Australian Labradoodle Association We are grateful that we are able to raise and share these gentle, fun-loving, and intelligent dogs with others. I would love to hear from you! If you are interested in bringing one of our Australian labradoodle puppies home, or have additional questions not included on our website, please contact Kristina. We at Aussie Labradoodle believe we are breeding the most loving, healthy, and reliable family pets around! Of course, we may be a bit biased :. Beginning with our first imported Australian Labradoodle, Macey, from Tegan Park in Australia, we've been doing our best to improve this breed since ! Initially bred in in Australia to provide assistance dogs for folks with allergies, the Australian Labradoodle became a beloved family pet that offered the best of both worlds: a large family-oriented people pleaser, highly intelligent, with low shedding to no shedding and no doggie odor. Today in Australia they sometimes call them Cobberdogs. We use only the top quality Australian and American multigenerational lines in our breeding program. We take health testing seriously, and were among the first to test hips and elbows in many lines coming out of Australia. And we are absolutely thrilled with the outcome! Although we cannot foresee every problem that could present itself, we are doing all we can to minimize the chances of health problems in our doodles. We also offer a two-year health guarantee against genetic health issues to give you peace of mind. The foundation of our Australian Labradoodle breeding stock, Macey, was purchased in whelp from Tegan Park in Australia. She blessed us with gorgeous chocolate and cream labradoodle babies and has since retired. Two of her chocolate offspring, Kona and Bella, became the foundation of our breeding stock. I grew up with dogs in our family from a very early age, and always wanted to have a career involving dogs! I went to university to become an Elementary School Teacher and later found myself in Mansfield Ohio with my husband Marc to raise our two children. In , an opportunity to become a dog groomer presented itself, and since then I have developed a successful mobile dog grooming business serving the Mansfield, Ohio area and I decided to retire from teaching in .Our first dog together was Jasmine, a Golden Retriever. Since Jasmine, we've had a couple other wonderful dogs but our love for Labradoodles started when we purchased Layla, an F1b Labradoodle. She stole our hearts and put into motion researching the breed that turned into Providence Labradoodles. This breed is extremely clever, sociable, comical and joyful! They are energetic when free, and quiet when handled. They approach people in a happy, friendly manner and make amazing therapy and service dogs as they are keen to learn and easy to train. Their amazing qualities made it very easy to concentrate only on breeding this wonderful breed! Our puppies, like our dogs, are raised in our home with lots of human contact. Our puppies are started with a focus in socialization, constant love and a nuturing environment to ensure that they will have loving and easy-going dispositions. My goal is to provide a family with a loving companion, whether a house pet, therapy dog or service dog! It is so important to me to raise well rounded and happy puppies that will make wonderful companions. We adhere to high-quality standards when it comes to our breeding dogs. Each breeding dog is carefully chosen, tested for orthopedic conditions outlined by OFA Orthopedic Foundation for Animals as well as genetic conditions prior to breeding to ensure that our puppies will be healthy. Aside from being healthy, our breeding dogs are loving, kind and have amazing temperments that will be passed down to their offspring! Our Australian Labradoodles are non-shedding, allergy-friendly, and asthma-friendly. They are sweet, smart and provide hours of entertainment! Providence Labradoodles wants the best for all involved. A well-loved, well socialized and well trained puppy promises years of delight. You can read more about our dogs and puppies on the " Meet Our Dogs " page and " Puppies " page. These puppies are a mix between Labradoodles and either an English Cocker Spaniel or an American Cocker Spaniel which means you will be getting the best of all the breeds when it comes to their coat type and temperament. Australian Labradoodles are known to be very intelligent and are one of the more popular breeds for families. Providence Labradoodles pups have playful, gentle, and calm temperaments meaning they would be a great addition to any family with children. Our puppies are all-around happy dogs that just love to be around their families.

Having a thick and broad body build, these bulldogs look formidably powerful. In fact, physical similarities between this breed and their cousins, the English bulldogs , are evident. However, this breed is more than how they look. These notorious slobberers might be the perfect fit in your family picture. Old tyme bulldogs as first pets Old tyme puppies may cost more upon purchase as well as the actual ownership. On the other hand, this is the best choice for first-time owners ready to dedicate their time for puppy training and other necessary ones. Old tyme bulldogs are good pets for families that will not leave them for long periods of time. They are best suited to households where one person can accompany him whilst the rest is out. When left alone for a long time , this breed often suffers from separation anxiety , which may lead to destructive behaviours. Moreover, they are low-maintenance when it comes to grooming. Old tyme bulldogs have short coats close to the skin. It only requires a weekly brushing to keep their coats glossy and clean. Knowing that this bulldog enjoys being groomed is another good point for keeping this pooch. The health of an old tyme bulldog is evident on his skin and coat. It is important to regularly check its folds or wrinkles, especially on its head and muzzles, to prevent skin problems or dirt build-up. Old tyme bulldogs and children Despite having a bad reputation under the belief of being an aggressive breed, the old tyme bulldog loves being in a home where there are children. Such rumours are due to the initial objective of bulldog breeding, which is to bait bulls. Bulldogs, in general, have a notable relationship with children and other pets. However, considering their large size, this breed is not the best choice for families with babies or very young children. They could be clumsy with their heavy built and easily knock over a young child. Further, an old tyme bulldog and very young children should not be left together unsupervised. It is very important to teach children how to properly behave in the presence of dogs, most especially during mealtime and playtime. Training is the vital key to strengthen the bond between dogs and its family. Old tyme bulldogs and other pets A well-disciplined and well-socialised bulldog fairs well with other dogs and pets. This is particularly true when the said pooch is reared together with a family cat. The old tyme bulldog has a calm temperament. That being said, they are not known to have a very high prey drive, unlike other breeds. However, it is still likely to chase down other cats, although not as fast as any other dogs. Old tyme bulldogs move at their own pace, which is quite slow but powerful. As they mature, they are still quite boisterous and enjoy a good interactive game or more with people they considered as family. It is very important to be extra cautious when handling an old tyme bulldog during a hot weather. Remember that this pooch is prone to overheating, which may lead to a life-threatening condition. Old tyme bulldogs as watchdogs Old tyme bulldogs, like other bulldogs, have a strong sense of protectiveness. Bulldogs are known to be loyal to every member in their pack, which includes children. It is quick to bark and notify owners as soon as it senses anything strange or the presence of strangers. This breed is not known as an excessive barker ; it only barks when it finds a concrete reason to do so. However, they are not the best choice to be kept as watchdogs due to their calm and easy-going character. An adult old tyme bulldog should be fed accordingly: Physically active: 1, calories every day Typical adults: 1, calories every day Senior and less active: 1, calories every day It is best to keep your bulldog happy with the right amount of exercise to burn off any excess of calories. Having a well-balanced bulldog is less likely to suffer from obesity, a condition that should not be taken lightly as it can lead to other health complications. Please leave this field empty. Ohld ing-glish Bool-dawg Description The Olde English Bulldogge is a muscular, medium sized dog of great strength, stability and athleticism. He is well balanced and proportioned, with no features exaggerated or standing out. He has the appearance of a dog capable of doing his original job, bull baiting. The OEB head is prominent and dramatic. The cheeks are large, well developed and display powerful jaw muscles. A slightly wrinkled forehead is acceptable. There is a crease from the stop to the occiput. It has a narrow skull and domed forehead. The muzzle is square, wide and deep, with definite layback. Distance from the tip of the nose to the stop does not exceed one-third of the distance from the tip of the nose to the occiput. Height of the muzzle from the bottom of the chin to the top of the muzzle is equal to or greater than the length of the muzzle, thus producing the deep, square muzzle. There is slight to moderate wrinkle on the muzzle. Flews are semi-pendulous. The bite is undershot and horizontally straight. Lower jawbone is moderately curved from front to back. Eyes are round to almond-shape and medium sized. They are set wide apart, with the outside corner of the eye intersecting with the outside line of the skull and are set low, at the level of the muzzle, where the stop and muzzle intersect. Eye color is brown, with black pigmented eye rims. Canine teeth are large. Broken, chipped or extracted teeth are acceptable. There are 6 corn row teeth between canines. Nostrils are wide with a line running vertically between nostrils from the tip of nose down to the bottom of the upper lip. Nose is large and broad in relationship to the width of the muzzle. Nose color is black. Ears are rose, button or tulip, with rose preferred. They are set high and to the rear of the skull. The ears are positioned as wide as possible on the outside of the skull. They are small to medium in size. Neck is medium length, wide, and slightly arched. It is a little smaller than the head where the two meet, and gets wider from that point to the shoulders. It is slightly loose from jaw to chest, forming a double dewlap. They are broad, heavily muscled and have a separation between shoulder blades. The scapula shoulder blade should be at an approximate degree angle to vertical and form an angle approximately degrees to the humerus forearm. Scapula and humerus should be roughly equal in length. A vertical line drawn from the point of the scapula top to the ground will pass directly through the elbow. The elbows are not turned in or out. The legs are set wide apart, coming straight down from the shoulders. They are straight vertically on inside of legs and well-muscled, giving a bowed appearance of front quarters. The forelegs have medium bone and are in proportion to the body. The pasterns are medium in length. They are straight, strong, flexible and nearly perpendicular to the ground. Body is sturdy and powerful. The length from tip of breastbone to rear thigh is slightly longer than the height from ground to withers. The back is wide and muscular, showing power. Topline has a slight roach or wheel back. There is a fall in the back, to its low spot behind the shoulders. From this point the spine rises to the loin. The high point of the loin is a little bit higher than the shoulders then there is a gentle curve, forming an arch, down to the tail. Loin back of ribcage to hips is muscular, medium in length and slightly arched. The chest is wide and deep with a muscular brisket. Ribs are well sprung and rounded, being at their fullest directly behind the shoulders. Shoulders to forelegs are well muscled. Hips and thighs are strong and muscular. Hind legs are well muscled and slightly longer than the forelegs. In a natural stance they are straight, parallel and set apart when viewed from the rear. Distance between hind legs is less than distance between front legs. Angulation is moderate. Stifles have a gentle convex curve when viewed from the side. Stifle angle roughly matches the angle of the pelvis. Hocks are perpendicular to the ground when viewed from the side and back. They are parallel to each other when viewed from the back. A line drawn from the rear-most part of the buttocks, perpendicular to the ground, should fall to the front of the toes. They are straight when viewed from the front. Rear feet are smaller than front feet. Tail should be set low and tapering from base to end. It can be pump handle or straight, with pump handle being preferred. Tail should reach the hocks or be slightly shorter and carried down or horizontal. Some breeders choose to dock the tail. Coat is short, close and of medium density. It should be shiny, showing good health. Color can be brindle of red, gray, fawn or black; either solid or pied with white. Solid white, fawn, red or black; solid color or pied. Temperament Olde English Bulldogges are docile, but capable and protective, fearless and athletic, fierce-looking, determined and courageous, bold and friendly around their family and friends, but fearless adversaries to anyone who threatens their masters or property. This breed likes to chew and should be supplied with plenty of toys and bones. Nylabones and rubber Kong toys are highly recommended. Rawhides, soft rubber and stuffed toys are unsafe, for they are easily shredded or swallowed whole. Olde English Bulldogges are so eager to please that they may overexert themselves in an effort to do whatever is asked of them. An owner who displays a natural authority toward the dog, socialization and obedience training are important. It is best to channel high energy individuals to some type of work and exercise. The objective in training this dog is to achieve pack leader status. It is a natural instinct for a dog to have an order in its pack. When we humans live with dogs , we become their pack. The entire pack cooperates under a single leader. Lines are clearly defined and rules are set. Because a dog communicates his displeasure with growling and eventually biting, all other humans MUST be higher up in the order than the dog. The humans must be the ones making the decisions, not the dogs. That is the only way your relationship with your dog can be a complete success. This breed tends to drool and slobber. Height, Weight Height: Males 17 - 20 inches 43 - 51 cm Females 16 - 19 inches 40 - 48 kg Weight: Males 60 - 80 pounds 27 - 36 kg Females 50 - 70 pounds 22 - 31 kg Health Problems May be susceptible to bloat —a painful and often fatal condition that can be brought on by too large a quantity of food consumed at one time. As with all large breeds, hip dysplasia sometimes occurs. Breeders are working hard to keep it out of the Olde English Bulldogge; therefore, no dog with bad hips is bred. Living Conditions Olde English Bulldogges will adapt to almost any lifestyle. They should be protected from the extreme cold and heat, although they are not as susceptible as the AKC Bulldog. Exercise This breed needs to be taken on a daily pack walk to satisfy its migration instinct. When properly conditioned they can be active dogs, however, they are equally happy with moderate exercise. They can stay in relatively good shape with good muscle tone with only light exercise. These dogs are naturally slow, and because of their unique structure, they should not be encouraged to jump or engage in strenuous exercise as young pups. This breed is an average shedder. In he became disenchanted with English Bulldogs due to their breeding and breathing problems. David's goal was to produce a dog with the looks of the 18th century bulldog, with the temperament of today's English Bulldogs, yet healthy, without breathing problems, or all the other aliments today's English Bulldogs are prone to. This new breed can now breathe. Cesarean section births are not necessary. Artificial insemination, due to male ineptness and lack of drive, has been replaced by natural ties. Lifespan is over eleven years. All breeding stock has had hip x-rays. No dog with bad hips is bred. David says he is now achieving his goal of producing a Bulldog with the health and temperament to be able to serve people, instead of forcing people to serve him. David Leavitt is breeding them to more of a working lines type dog, while OEBKC is breeding the dogs as more of a family oriented dog. His strong, hard athletic physique is still close-coupled and compact enough to promote the traditional bulldog looks that are common with regards to his breeding, making him stocky, athletic and imposing. The shoulders are muscular and slightly sloping, fore legs are straight, well boned and set well apart, elbows turned neither in or out, feet broad strong, toes tight, nails curved and strong, pads thick and tough. The hindquarters are broad and muscular, with well-developed second thigh denoting power, but not cumbersome, moderate angulations at hocks; cow hocks and splay feet are serious faults. His gait is powerful, heavy, with good drive from the hindquarters. A straight or pump handle tail is preferred and most desired, but crank and corkscrew are accepted. The Dorset Olde Tyme Bulldogge has a large, strong head; the upper region of the head is slightly convex from one side to the other, the forehead dominates the face, however it is still wider than high, the head is furrowed, with loose thick and wrinkled skin about the throat and side of head, cheeks: prominent, due to the strong development of the muscles, broad muzzle: with obvious folds, broad and deep, keeping its length in comparison with that of the entire head. The nose is broad, with well open nostrils; lack of fore face with nostrils set on top of muzzle is a reversion back to the kennel club bulldog and is very undesirable. Care is taken to keep the traditional strong bulldogge head, allowing short strong enough muzzle to not hinder breathing while still keeping the solid close-coupled broad set bulldog looks. The body is compact. The chest is wide and deep with ribs well sprung and well set down between the fore legs. The back is short, giving the impression of a well-balanced dog. The neck is slightly arched, of moderate length, very muscular and almost equal to the circumference to the skull. The topline is solid with a broad and muscular back, withers well marked, broad loin, rather short and solid. The ears are set high and wide, rose preferred, button is accepted. The coat is of fine texture, smooth flat, short coat desired, similar to the glossy sheen of the Stafford, double or oily coat un-desired. Any color acceptable, Dorsets are bred in variations of brindle, variations of pied, also black and slate gray-blue; the slate gray blue's known as Dorset Blue poole's, as a respect and tribute to the original blue Paul pol of Scotland, and the area of Poole in Dorset. This breeding is still at the early stages of Steve's breeding program, and have only just after a few years started to reproduce type in color. Temperament The Dorset Olde Tyme Bulldogge is a very good all-around family member, loyal among the children and keen to please and be part of the family circle, not homed as a guardian, but determined protector nonetheless. Keen to lie at your feet or walk at your side, a good companion very attached to his master and very affectionate; longs for leadership and to be loved. They are usually good with non-k-9 pets, especially when raised with them from puppyhood and they usually get along well with other dogs; socialize well. Height, Weight Height: 19 - 21 inches 48 - 54 cm Weight: 60 - 90 pounds 27 - 41 kg Preferring a strong, stocky muscled physique—height and weight should be in keeping with a symmetrical, well-proportioned body, keeping the appearance of strong traditional bulldogge looks. If they are kept outdoors they will need the benefit of a good, dry draft-free kennel. They will do fine in an apartment. Exercise This Bulldogge can handle any amount of exercise. They are keen to lie at your feet or walk at your side, but like all dogs, need to be taken on a daily walk to fulfill their primal canine instinct to walk. Life Expectancy Some dogs have been known to live up to 14 years Litter Size Varies greatly, 3 to 12 puppies Grooming Coat care can consist of a daily wipe over with a cloth or soft brush; care should be taken to make sure all wrinkles around the muzzle are free from any dirt or staining. Origin With a breeding program known to go back to the late s, Steve Barnett set out to re-create his ideal bulldogge of old, utilizing his earlier experiences of the various bulldog crosses he was involved in breeding, some of which went into the foundation stock of the late Victorian Bulldog breeder Mr. K Mollett, who originally set out to produce a fitter kennel club bulldog. Steve Barnett's goal in his own words has been "always to produce a national bulldogge, a dog which is brought out into the show or ring with pride, to stand beside your dog knowing that he is an athlete, capable of non-stop energy, worthy of the name gladiator, a true bulldog both in appearance and traditional bulldog temperament. Not a nuisance around animals and other dogs, but with an inbred fire if needed, or called upon, a dog that would grace the arena of any show in any country any were in the world, and be gazed upon with true spirit and real national pride, not shown amongst the fruit and veg in a wheel barrow like the kc dogs of today. During the Tudor period both these bloody sports were at a height of national pastimes, the normal person, although poverty stricken and hungry, seemed to always find the odd half penny to attend the various bear pits that lined the south side of the Thames as early as , mentioned by Shakespeare and other known writers in their day. Henry the VIII had a real strong liking and interest in the early bear pits and bull baiting, appointing the first official master of the game, documented in history Queen Elizabeth had a fascination for the sport of bull and bear baiting. She once visited Kenilworth Castle in , then owned by the Earl of Leicester, here 13 bears were assembled for her amusement, although this was the height of the bull and bear baiting period in old England. A bill to end bull-baiting was defeated as late in history as by forty-five votes, only to be abolished 6 years further on in .A royal sport that has been documented throughout history for close to years, these early dogs were the backbone to the now out-of-shape bulldog of today, the kind that won the hearts and minds of the early writers of the day, that stamped the seal, that brought national pride to the words English bulldogge, our goal has been to re-produce this early broad-muzzled, flat-faced dog of old, but to still keep the traditional shape and character we have all come to love. Pictures are taken of each litter of pups at 4 and 6 weeks of age. We do not honor any other photo requests for pups that are sold and waiting for their release day. Delilah is bred to Oscar pups due October 10th. Accepting pick of litter deposits. Finding Your Perfect Olde English Bulldogge Puppy As the premier breeder of Olde English Bulldogges in the Southeast, we love providing families and individuals of all ages with healthy, happy puppies from this amazing breed. Our puppies turn into healthy, well-tempered and athletic dogs that will make a loving addition to your home — whether you have young children, lead an active lifestyle, or want a couch companion. They can keep up with an active lifestyle of jogging, hiking and camping or a more relaxed one sitting at home and watching TV. Our bulldogges have gone on to live with people from all walks of life, including single adults, couples, families with children, active retirees, and the elderly. Loving They become very attached and love spending time with their families, including young children. Athletic Compared to other bulldog breeds, Olde English Bulldogges are athletic dogs with strength and stamina. They love getting outdoors, playing, jogging, and being part of the fun. Trainable Olde English Bulldogges are eager to please and responsive to commands. Healthy Our bulldogges have fewer of the genetic issues that commonly impact bulldogs, such as airway issues, breeding difficulties and climate sensitivity. As a result, our puppies are healthy, well-adjusted, IOEBA registered, and have a documented blood line with five-generation pedigrees. With the scientific expertise of our owner, we provide dogs with common, rare and tri-color combinations. In addition to our high breeding standards, we pride ourselves on having superior customer service. We love our little Stella. She is so playful and sweet. Was super easy to potty train. Thank you Robyn for all you do! Lee W Davenport, Iowa. White, fawn, red, or black Suitable for: Families with both small and large kids, single pet homes, and multi-pet homes Temperament: Loyal, trustworthy, calm, brave, and protective The Dorset Olde Tyme Bulldogge offers a rare combination of calmness and protectiveness, paired with the ability to hang out with small and large children alike. But what else do you need to know about these dogs to care for them? We break it all down for you here. Dogs that are harder to train will require a bit more patience and practice. Proper exercise, nutrition, and hygiene also play an important role in the lifespan of your pet. More social dogs have a tendency to run up to strangers for pets and scratches, while less social dogs shy away and are more cautious, even potentially aggressive. But where these dogs really shine is with sociability. Finally, while these dogs have a comparatively short lifespan, they have fewer health concerns than other Bulldogs. This loving and calm temperament makes them a great family dog, no matter the age of your kids. If your life consists of driving one kid to practice every day throughout the week, you better be able to bring your Dorset Olde Tyme Bulldogge along for the ride. As long as you socialize your Dorset Olde Tyme Bulldogge early, they get along great with other pets. With socialization early and often, the Dorset Olde Tyme Bulldogge does great with almost any other pet. At a minimum, you need to take your pup out for one walk a day to keep them healthy and happy. The length of this walk can vary, but we recommend at least 30 minutes a day. These pups are extremely smart, allowing them to learn a wide array of tricks, but they are also incredibly stubborn. This takes a ton of time and patience, and it can easily frustrate an impatient owner. Still, you should use a soft brush on them every day to help remove any excess hair and keep their skin healthy. Furthermore, you need to brush their teeth several times a week to maintain proper oral hygiene. Use a top-notch doggy toothpaste to clean their teeth, and it can save you a bundle at the dentist in the future. Here, Below we highlighted a few of the most common genetic problems that you need to keep an eye out for. Minor Conditions.

What Types of Images are Available? Our collection includes hundreds of images of yellow Labrador Retrievers in various poses, settings, and activities. You'll find everything from close-up portraits to action shots of these friendly and lovable dogs in different colors and backgrounds. Whether you're looking for images of puppies or adults, playing or resting, indoors or outdoors, we've got you covered. You can choose from realistic or artistic styles, depending on your project's tone and purpose. What's more, our images are available in different resolutions, so you can choose the one that best fits your needs. All the images are carefully curated to ensure that they meet the highest quality standards and are visually appealing. Yellow Labrador Retriever images can be used for a variety of purposes, including: Print and digital advertising campaigns Social media posts and blogs Web design and development Product packaging and branding Personal projects, such as photo albums and cards Whatever your needs are, our images can help you convey the message you want to send in a warm and friendly way. Yellow Labrador Retriever images are perfect for pet-related businesses, but they can also be used in other industries that want to add some positive emotions to their brand identity. How to Use Images Correctly? Images are powerful tools that can make your projects stand out and connect with your audience on an emotional level. However, using images incorrectly can also hurt your message and reputation. Here are some practical tips for using our Yellow Labrador Retriever images effectively: Choose images that match your project's tone and purpose Use high-quality images that look good on different devices and media Respect copyright laws and give credits to the authors when needed Avoid using images that are too generic or overused Take care of image compression and optimization to reduce page load time By following these tips, you can create projects that look great and resonate with your audience. Yellow Labrador Retriever images can bring warmth, joy, and authenticity to your visual content. Reviewed by Monica Tarantino Dr. Monica Tarantino, DVM, is a small animal veterinarian and writer with five years of general practice, emergency medicine, and geriatric pet health experience. She is certified as a Fear Free doctor. Emily has been a proofreader and editor at a variety of online media outlets over the past decade and has reviewed more than articles for The Spruce Pets for factual accuracy. These pups make a great addition to every home, as they are excellent with kids, love to cuddle, and will do anything to make their owners happy. They are medium-to-large sturdy dogs with excellent balance, obedience through the roof , and an adorable face. Keep scrolling to see the cutest photos yet and discover mind-boggling Labrador retriever trivia. Despite their name, Labrador retrievers originally came from Newfoundland, not Labrador. Continue to 2 of 16 below. Continue to 3 of 16 below. Continue to 4 of 16 below. Continue to 5 of 16 below. Continue to 6 of 16 below. A little training will go a long way. Continue to 7 of 16 below. It may require some training, but their instincts will know how to handle soft items. Labrador retrievers go crazy for plush toys and are often found napping with their favorite ones. Continue to 8 of 16 below. I had dogs all my life until my beloved Golden Irish Emmy died 2 years ago. I was working on obtaining my Master's degree at the time and knew that besides not being ready for another companion just yet, I didn't have adequate time to devote to another dog. I started biting at the chomp a few months before finishing school and could hardly wait to find my new best friend. I think I was more looking forward to getting a new dog than graduating! Cody was my graduation present to myself and came home on May 12, , at 10 weeks of age. Even as a water-loving breed, Lab puppies still need to learn how to swim, and for his safety, I got him a life vest for swimming in deeper waters such as lakes and rivers. He loves playing in shallow water and is quickly learning to love the pool. He can't stand for me to be in it without him! He has a very calm temperament and trains easily. From the first day I had him he sat for treats without command and was totally housebroken within 2 weeks. He already retrieves the newspaper from the mailbox and drops it in my hand on command every morning. Pretty good, I think! He goes to Puppy Kindergarten every week to learn good manners and be socialized. He will become a certified therapy dog and enrich the lives of others, just as he has mine. I think the most important thing I've learned is the need to be "pack leader. Another thing I have put into practice is generating the kind of energy I want Cody to have. He will react to situations based on the vibes he receives from me , so I must be diligent in projecting the correct energy. I have never put this much work into training a dog before, but I already see the rewards of my efforts. Sometimes it seems sad that he is no longer that small little fur ball, but it is so much fun to see him grow and watch him develop. It is especially nice to see those razor puppy teeth falling out! I look forward to enjoying many more years of companionship with him! He is growing rapidly, and his paws are big, therefore the vet says he will be a huge dog! Logan is a pup who wants to play all day and sleep at night. Whenever he greets people, he gets excited and loves to get belly rubs. He is very good with the children, and doesn't like to sleep alone. He needs to be at your feet or by your side. Logan likes to jump around like a rabbit, especially when socializing with other dogs. He is very good at it. We have not mastered the art of retrieving yet, well.He likes to keep it. In all the pics I am sending, he is sitting pretty for me, but I think Logan likes to have his picture taken, he is such a ham! Logan makes us smile every day. Good night, Lolly. This is Mindy. She is sitting with her brothers Steven, age 12 and David, age .This is Jake! He is pounds 52 kg and loves to swim! As an adorable pup Rudy the Lab at two years old Happy Rudy! Pet Project Updated May 25, 3. Are you in the mood to see some adorable photos of Yellow Labrador dogs? This is a list of some of the cutest Yellow Lab photos. You can add your own special Yellow Labrador Retriever photos to the list, and you can vote for your favorite pictures of Yellow Labrador Retrievers to get them ranked higher on the list. The English Labs are heavier, thicker and blockier. The American Labs are from American bred stock and are tall and lanky. Their double coat is smooth and comes in solid black, yellow or chocolate. Labs love to play in water, and are very good-natured and eager to please. They are large dogs, some reaching to over pounds in size. They are also very energetic and need regular mental and physical exercise to keep them stimulated or they can become high-strung. These large dogs excel at almost everything, and can be used for service dogs, guide dogs for the blind, search and rescue and sledding, among many other activities. Labrador Retrievers have a strong willingness to please and are highly intelligent. These beautiful animals make excellent service dogs and are a top choice for service dog work. The nose and eye rims are black on Yellow Labrador Retrievers, and their coloring is a pretty yellow. Enjoy these cute pictures of adult and baby Yellow Labrador Retrievers, and see what great dogs they can be!

labrador puppy weight - Teach an alternative behavior like "lick" or "kisses" Alright, let's dive into each tip below. Exercising a puppy is one of the best ways to help alleviate problem behaviors like biting. Again, how much exercise your puppy needs will be largely dependent on their breed and age. A general rule of thumb is that a puppy can have 5 minutes of exercise per month of age, twice a day. So a 4-month-old puppy can exercise for 20 minutes twice a day. The more energy your pup uses, the better! Exercise can also take the form of , just be careful not to overrun your pup. Excessive exercise can cause joint problems in the long run. There are a host of options to help you overcome this issue so you can still effectively get rid of their energy. Consider getting a flirt pole. Flirt poles are a fantastic option because they allow you to play very energetic and fun games of chase, without worrying about getting your hands nipped at. You can get one here. Another option is to teach your pup a structured game of fetch. Fetch is great because it exercises dogs both physically and mentally. Zak George lays out how to teach your dog to fetch in our free online training class, 30 Day Perfect Pup. You can sign up here. Remember, many dogs can have been bred for hundreds of years to have high levels of energy. Be sure to give your pup an outlet with exercise to help stop that puppy biting! Don't miss out! That is the perfect time to engage them mentally with a quick training session! Not only does it deter them from biting, but it gives you an opportunity to reward them for positive behavior. In its simplest form, the leave it behavior is all about restraint. A dog that can restrain from lunging and grabbing a treat on the ground, is much more likely to be able to leave your hand alone when you ask. Step 2: Show your pup a treat and then close your hand so your pup cannot access it. Your pup will likely try to get to the treat by licking, biting hopefully not , or pawing at your hand where the treat is. Step 3: Practice that behavior multiple times until your pup starts to generalize the concept. The next step after that would be to try putting a treat on the ground and telling your pup to leave it. Step 5: Practice, practice, and then keep practicing. If your pup starts biting into your skin, give the leave it command, and reward when they stop. Practice makes perfect! For example, as you teach your pup the sit behavior you can help them understand yes and no. Over time trust me, it takes time , your pup will better start to understand the difference between yes and no. My wife and I raised two Yellow Labs that are about 7 months apart. And they were the first puppies we had raised as adults. So please, trust me when I tell you that getting frustrated will only make things worse. When you are frustrated, your pup likely is as well. And when puppies are frustrated, they won't learn! So, if you find a certain puppy behavior like biting or situation starting to overwhelm you… take a timeout. Let your pup cool down in their crate or sleep area and give yourself a few minutes to regroup. Guess what. So, do what you need to do for a personal break, and then recommit and get back at it! They have a keen sense of noticing our emotions. When frustration creeps in, learning stops for both human and dog. Redirecting to a game of tug of war can help teach your pup what is okay and not okay to chew on. As we mentioned before, puppies explore the world with their mouth, that is totally normal! Many pup parents have found it best to approach your pup with the toy in hand so you can be ready if the hand chomping starts happening. Teaching your dog tug can be a great way to stop puppy biting. Just remember, these behaviors can take significant practice and time to overcome. The question is, are you rewarding those positive behaviors and moments as you should be? If you are going through the process of overcoming puppy biting, you need to remember to praise the successful moments. When your pup comes up to you and lets you pet them without getting nippy, praise and reward them! Maybe you will see your puppy chewing a toy instead of your slippers or hand, reward them! If your puppy licks your hand instead of biting it, reward them! A huge part, and often underlooked, of training a puppy is to praise their successes. Treat each victory as a party and break out the fun, , and praise. Your job as a pup parent is to teach your dog what you want them to do. PS- If you're looking for a high-value reward treat for your pup, we've got your back! Check out our. Of course, you praise the positive moments but at times, you have to take away what your pup is desiring. In the instance of biting, pups are looking for playtime and engagement with us humans. Leave the room, put them in another room, or put them into a playpen for minutes. Implementing this method consistently will help your pup come to understand that when biting starts, playtime stops. A note on this, in most cases it is best to not use the crate as a negative reinforcer like a timeout. For example, when your pup starts nibbling, do your best to not jerk your hand away quickly. Most dogs love things that are moving! So if you jerk your hand or foot away, your pup may think you are trying to be playful. If your pup starts biting, let your hand go limp. Another way to make your skin a little less enticing is to keep them covered when possible. Being a successful pup parent oftentimes comes down to how well you can set your pup up for success. So if you know your pup is going through an extreme biting phase, consider keeping that skin covered when at home. It can be wearing socks, long sleeves and pants, and other things like that! When the puppy biting phase is at its worst, every little bit of help is important! Dogs are obviously very skilled at helping each other learn what is okay for play, and what is too aggressive. One quick note on socializing your puppy is that you should always be there to monitor them! Be active and aware and be ready to intervene if the play gets out of hand or aggressive. Some dogs have lower levels of patience with puppy biting, so be aware of how the other dogs are responding. Many pup parents find that the more they can correctly socialize their puppy, the milder the puppy biting will become. If you can effectively teach them a behavior that they can only do without biting then you'll be much closer to no biting! While there are plenty of alternative biting behaviors you can teach, here are some favorites:. By Chris Lab puppies are the definition of cuteness. But they are not always the angels they seem! What can you do when your Labrador puppy develops a biting habit? How to stop a Lab puppy from biting? These adorable little guys possess some not-so-good behaviors, especially during the first few months of their lives, a major one being biting. At first, it may seem cute, but it can be irksome, especially when your pup starts destroying things around your house or even begins biting you. Read on to learn some valuable tips on how to train your Labrador puppy to stop biting. What Causes Puppy Biting? Teething in puppies often starts when they are approximately three weeks old. By the time they are six weeks old, these little guys will have all 28 deciduous teeth. When your pup is around 12 weeks old, it will start shedding these teeth, paving the way for the permanent teeth to grow. You may notice these teeth around your home, but most likely, your furry little friend will swallow these teeth while eating. Your puppy tends to chew on everything because the teething process is quite uncomfortable and painful. That is why it will bite and nip on anything to try and relieve that pain. You may also notice your pet drooling excessively and not eating much during this phase. Even strong swimmers like Labs need a break every now and then Your Puppy Is Exploring Its Surrounding During the socialization stage which is from 4 to 12 weeks of age , puppies tend to bite and nip as a way of exploring their environment. At this stage, your pup will chew anything out of curiosity and to test its social boundaries. Separation Anxiety Puppies and older dogs who suffer from separation anxiety mostly exhibit destructive behaviors such as excessive biting. Separation anxiety is basically when your puppy becomes agitated, anxious, or depressed when you prepare to leave, or you have already left. Typically, puppies require between 16 to 18 hours of sleep every day. When they do not get enough sleep, they may begin exhibiting destructive behaviors such as excessive biting. Puppies who have the zoomies tend to show behaviors such as barking and biting excessively, running and spinning around, and so on. A lack of exercise is the leading cause of dog zoomies. These destructive behaviors are a way for your puppy to release that pent-up energy it has held in for quite some time. Here are a few ways on how to train your puppy to stop biting. Labradors are huge fans of babies as they age. Active families love a Lab! Try Bite Inhibition Bite inhibition is one of the most common methods puppy owners use to train their pups to stop biting. This is simply training it on how to control the force of its bites. Of course, you cannot entirely train a puppy to stop biting because it is part of how they socialize. Usually, puppies nip at each other while playing with their littermates or mothers. When your pup bites another puppy too hard, it will yelp, scaring your puppy enough to let go. You can take advantage of this behavior and teach your dog how much biting is acceptable. When it releases you, try ignoring it for approximately 10 to 20 minutes, then continue petting and playing with it. Another way to train your puppy to stop biting is by using positive punishment. Apart from yelping when it bites, you can also use a calm but firm voice to make it stop that behavior. Unlike humans, yelling at your puppy makes it more hyperactive and excited, making the habit even worse. When your puppy is biting excessively, you can gently place it in its cage for a couple of minutes until it calms down. However, it is essential to use this method sparingly to prevent your dog from developing negative responses. This may lead to your pup acting up when it sees someone walking towards it, which can be dangerous. It is also essential to reward your puppy when it calms down and stops biting, as it will help reinforce that positive behavior. If your pup tries biting your finger or hand, you can pull it away quickly before it does and provide a chewy toy for it to nip on instead. Do Labs like water? However, there are many things to consider when shopping for the ideal chew toy for your puppy. If you notice that your puppy shreds or destroys something it bites on within minutes, you should get a chew toy made of rubber or hard plastic. When choosing a chew toy for your furry little pal, make sure it is a good size for your puppy. Go for a toy that is not too big for your pup to carry and not too small that it can swallow and get lodged in its throat. It is also recommendable to get a treat-toy for your puppy. These toys allow you to stash some treats in them to elicit more interest. Such toys will help keep your puppy engaged enough to stop chewing on things around your home. Allow Your Puppy to Socialize With Other Puppies Arranging a playdate with other puppies is also a great way to train your puppy to stop biting. Like we mentioned earlier, puppies bite and nip at each other when playing. When one pup bites the other one too hard, it yelps, making the puppy stop nipping. This response helps your dog learn how much force of a bite is unacceptable. Is your dog a Prince or Princess? A Hero or a Pauper? Jasmine or Aladdin type? Would you give your puppy a Disney dog name? Conclusion While puppy biting is normal, it can become dangerous and uncomfortable as they grow older. My wife and I love playing with our active miniature Labradoodle Max. We want all Oodle puppies to be healthy and happy, have lots of fun and be part of the family. Load More. We may receive commissions from purchases made via our links. Lab puppies are incredibly cute, but their teeth really hurt when they are puncturing your skin every time you try to play. No one likes to be bitten, so how can you get a lab puppy to stop biting? The best way to stop a Lab puppy from biting is through a combination of proper exercise, training, redirection, and the use of positive affirmation. Most owners attempt at least one of these methods, but it is the combination and use of all of them that will effectively curb unwanted biting. Keep in mind that before you can stop it effectively, you should know why Labrador puppies bite so much. Additionally, know when they tend to naturally stop biting. Only then can you effectively begin to work on preventing them from biting. Lab puppies use their mouths to explore their environment and gather important information. When puppies are growing their adult teeth, they will often chew to soothe the ache along their gums. Labs may also bite to play or out of fear and aggression. Biting for Sensory Information When a puppy bites something, they learn how hard they can bite it, what it tastes like, how it feels, and if they can bite it again. All of this information is stored in a mental catalog your dog looks back on when encountering a similar object. This learning process is very important for puppies to become well-socialized dogs. When a puppy bites another puppy too hard they will lose their playmate. Biting too hard can have negative repercussions! Biting for sensory information is a totally normal behavior for puppies and even adult dogs. Since they don't have hands to explore with, their mouths are the only option. However, if you don't want your dog's mouth on you or your belongings, there are ways to stop this biting but we'll get to that later! Biting for Teething As your Lab matures, their mouths will start to change. Once their adult teeth begin to push up through their gums, the teeth they were born with begin to fall out one by one. It is the same process humans go through when their baby teeth come in and are later replaced with adult teeth. Just like with humans, this process is somewhat painful and incredibly uncomfortable. To help quicken the process, puppies will chew on things to wear down the gum between the new tooth and their mouth. This practice is also very soothing for puppies, especially if they chew on something cold. Biting for Play vs Biting for Aggression In the wild, dogs and wolves play by wrestling around and biting one another. Since your dog sees you as a member of its pack, they will try to play with you in a similar way. Of course, this biting still isn't ideal, but it's important to know the difference between play and real aggression. When a dog bites out of aggression, it is because they are scared, or you are asking them to do something they really don't want to do. Biting out of aggression is important to watch and fix at a young age so you don't end up with an aggressive dog. The most significant indicator of aggressive biting is body language. When a puppy is being playful, their body and facial muscles are relaxed. When a puppy is biting out of aggression, their body will be stiff or frozen, their face will have a lot of tension in it, and their lips may be pulled back in a snarl or growl. If you are seeing a lot of aggression in your puppy, you should contact your Veterinarian to make sure they are not in pain. When a dog suddenly becomes aggressive, they may have an unseen condition that is causing them to lash out. If you get a clear bill of health, you should seek the help of a professional trainer to help you. As we said earlier, as your Labrador matures, they will start to develop adult teeth. This change usually occurs around 12 to 16 weeks of age; the process will reach its end at about 7 months. Therefore, if your Lab is biting to soothe its gums, then the biting should end around the same time their teeth have fully grown in. If your puppy is biting for sensory information and play, it will lessen as your Lab matures and begins to slow down. While there is no magic number that says when your Lab will calm down , it usually happens between the ages of 2 and 4. First, don't hit your puppy as punishment. They aren't doing anything wrong in their mind because biting is natural. You also can't decide when it is and isn't okay to bite. Doing so can cause great confusion. When trying to prevent your Lab from biting, a few tips can help you. Exercise, training, redirecting, and positive affirmations are your secret weapons against those adorable, tiny, sharp teeth. Exercise Exercising your Lab daily will cause them to be too exhausted to do anything but sleep, let alone bite you. You can exercise your Lab by playing fetch, going on walks, or using enrichment toys. Training First, I recommend formal fundamental training before attempting anything specialized. Training your Lab not to bite sounds complicated, but it can be as easy as slapping some butter and seasoning on. If your Lab is biting YOU, put some butter on your arms and clothes wear they like to bite you. Show the butter to your Lab, and when they lick at it, say "yes, kisses, yes. This associates the word "kisses" with the act of licking and the yummy taste your dog gets. The next time your Lab tries to bite you, say "kisses," they should start to lick you instead as they try for the yummy taste. If your Lab is biting furniture or shoes, there is another approach. Grab a spicy seasoning, like paprika or taco seasoning, and sprinkle it on the places your Lab chews. Then, the next time they go to chew it, they will get a nasty taste in their mouth and leave the thing alone! Redirecting Redirecting your dog to things they are allowed to chew on when playing is another way to avoid being bitten. Have some good chew toys handy whenever you are playing with your Lab. When your Lab starts to bite you, show them a chew toy and try directing the bite towards it. After a while, your puppy should go after its toys instead of you. This type of training takes time , but is proven to be very effective. Positive Affirmation When your dog does what you want, whether it's licking or going for a proper toy, make sure you give them lots of praise. Tell them how good they are and even provide them with a treat or two! Final Thoughts Biting is a natural part of a Lab's life, but it is crucial to decipher playful nips and aggressive ones. Playful body language is loose and relaxed Aggressive body language is stiff and snarling If you are seeing a lot of aggressive body language in your Lab, make sure they are healthy and contact a trainer A Lab will probably stop biting after they stop teething If your Lab doesn't stop biting after teething, they should stop upon reaching maturity between 2 and 4 years of age Exercise, training, redirecting, and positive affirmation are the best ways to stop biting NEVER hit your dog to stop biting. We may earn money or products from the companies mentioned in this post. You turn your attention back to your computer screen and suddenly feel little teeth grabbing at your sock! You look down. Your once-angelic puppy is now having a full on game of tug-of-war with your pant leg! This cute baby is now more like a furry little monster. You get up and try to walk away, but the fur alligator is still attached, munching away at your trousers and having the best time! If this sounds like your life, read on to learn how to stop a puppy from biting. Why Do Puppies Bite? Believe it or not, this scenario is actually very common! Biting is one of the most natural things in the world to a young pup; and they do it for many reasons. You would be left with your feet and mouth to interact, taste and feel your environment. Now, what if you had puppy paws — incapable of grasping anything? That leaves you with one final way to interact — your mouth. For good measure, add in the incredible curiosity of a child. How many times do you see a baby grab things with their hands and pop them into the mouth? Puppies have that same mindset. Your mouth strength and play bite helped you communicate and determine your rank in society. Your mouthy mojo gave you respect in canine culture. Puppies interact with their surroundings largely through their mouths. Labradors, like most sporting breeds, have the drive to chase after prey, put it in their mouths, and bring it back to you. This translates into a strong need to chew. They will try this same tactic with their human pack members. If ignored, one bite on the toe is often enough to get the focus back on them. Remember, to a puppy even negative attention is still attention. Terrible Teething When you add teething into the mix, you have the recipe for a furry gator. Most pups will have an increased need to chew while teething , which can begin at 6 weeks and last to 8 months of age. Unlike teething, there is no magical age that puppies grow out of a learned mouthing behavior. Thankfully, with positive training, most dogs eventually lose interest in chewing on their owners. Types of Biting: Aggression or Play? Puppies use their teeth in many ways. However, this is actually just very intense play. Play biting can be accompanied with growling and snarling. This is just part of the fun to a young pup. Instead, we will look into how we can prevent playful mouthing. However, it is important to recognize the signs of aggression. Pay attention to the timing of the biting as well. If so, the motive behind the bite may be more aggressive. Could it be Resource Guarding? Some dogs also aggressively bite when they are guarding a toy or food item, commonly called resource guarding. With resource guarding, you will see the same behavior as aggressive biting, but they will also stand over an object and defend it from any perceived threat. If you think your puppy is behaving aggressively, seek professional help to learn how to actively manage this issue. In contrast to this, playing puppies will be relaxed and have a wiggly body. They will be bouncy, easily roll onto their backs and often be panting with open mouths. Even if they are growling, a relaxed face and body mean a happy puppy. What Can Trigger Biting? Do you really want your pound Labrador to target your hands as a toy later? Children Little kids tend to excite puppies more than adults. Children move erratically, run around, make strange sounds and have a lot more energy. Puppies can easily associate them with toys. Ankle Biters Puppies target fast moving objects that excite their prey drive. Your feet moving by at their eye level can be irresistible. After all, what self-respecting puppy would snub shoes with those floppy laces that are perfect for playing tug? How do we do this? Redirection with Hands When training your puppy, always have a toy to offer. Remember, puppies are like babies. Your job is to redirect them to fun toys instead of human skin. You must do everything possible to make toys extremely attractive so the puppy chooses them over your clothing, hands or feet. Redirection with Kids You can also use redirection around children. First, teach your puppy to use interactive toys and then show your child how to play with the puppy correctly. In the event that your dog forgets, teach your kids to be a tree when their puppy begins to bite them or their clothes. This position makes them less interactive to the puppy. They look boring and the puppy will lose interest. Most bites occur because the child is running or moving erratically. Remember, dogs have the same prey triggers as wolves. If something is running away, it looks like prey. Your job, therefore, is to have an even more amazing toy than your feet. You can take a toy, tie it to a rope, and then tie the rope to your belt so that you are dragging the toy whenever your pup is out. If your puppy is coming for your feet, stop moving them and wave the toy around excitedly instead. Once the pup is attached to the toy, you can start walking again. This way, they will pounce on the toy instead of you! Bite inhibition simply means that the puppy learns not to apply too much force behind their teeth. They apply gentle, but firm, pressure to their greeting. Puppies also learn to limit this pressure with their mouths by feedback from pack members. When puppies are little, they learn bite inhibition through play with their siblings. If two pups are tussling, and one bites down too hard, the other puppy yelps loudly. This startling sound usually causes the offending party to let go. The play stops for a few minutes, as the first pup nurses his wounded ego. Play then resumes, but with less brutality. Instead, let the puppy release your hand and then simply get up and and move away from your pup while ignoring them. Your job is to teach them when they bite down on you, the fun stops. Ignore them for about a minute, then return and resume the play and praise them when they focus on the toy. If they bite you too hard again, repeat this process. You can either step over a puppy barrier or go into another room and shut the door. Just make sure they are in a puppy-proof area, as they may take out their frustration on inappropriate household items. You can also keep the puppy on a leash while playing with them. If they bite you, you can calmly tether them to something and then walk out of their reach. Your goal is to correct the puppy only by taking away your fun presence. You should not be threatening or angry. Give them the appropriate time out from the fun interaction to settle down, and then come back with a toy to redirect their energy. Once they understand they have to be gentle, you can then start to ask more of them by ending the game with lighter and lighter pressure on your skin. Finally, you can take the game to the highest standard — no teeth on human skin at all. If you slowly progress to this over weeks, you teach your pup to have a soft mouth. If they do feel the need to put their teeth on a human, they know not to put much pressure into their bite. You need to teach your puppy that human skin is fragile and requires a softer touch than a canine interaction. Your goal for this exercise should be to help your puppy understand that the play and fun things continue as long as they keep their teeth on their toy and not on you! More Ways to Stop Your Puppy Biting While the yelp and time-out method works for most pups, there are additional ways to reinforce good behavior. When your puppy bites your hand, they get a terrible taste. You can use anti-chewing sprays like Bitter Apple to make your hands less appealing. When your puppy bites you, be still and wait for them to react to the bitter taste. When they let go, praise them and redirect them onto a treat or toy. You want the crate to always be associated with only good things. Crates also should be in the middle of the household, with the rest of the pack — not isolated. This is the same way other canine pack members would isolate them. A laundry room or puppy pen works well for this exercise. Make sure the room is comfortable and safe for your puppy. When the puppy is too stimulated, calmly put him in the room with some teething toys and leave. Teaching them interactive games like fetch or bringing you a toy to tug helps show them that they can have even more fun when they play by your rules. Positive play helps develop a bond with your dog. You never want to avoid it, you just want to show them how to play without biting you. Teaching puppies to retrieve objects helps to tire them out, gives them something positive to chase, and focuses their bite on an appropriate item. Plus, most Labradors are pretty good at retrieving! Remember, anytime we ask a puppy to stop a behavior, it should be because they are rewarded in an even more exciting and positive way for doing something else and things our way. The following video shows how. Video: How to Stop a Puppy from Biting This video shows how to use clicker training to stimulate a puppy in situations where they normally would bite; and then reward them when they choose a closed mouth and calm interaction. Dominant Puppies Dogs are individuals. However, as puppies mature, there may be the rare pup that uses biting as a way to take charge. Dominant puppies may bite to show you that they want to be the boss as they mature. This happens naturally among littermates, as all packs have a pecking order. This reinforces to them that you are backing down and that they are the leader in the relationship. Always remain calm and assertive with your puppy, but end the game as soon as they begin vying for leadership instead of playing. Remember, the alternative to not training your dog is a large animal putting his mouth on people. Be patient with your puppy. Remember, mouthing and biting are normal parts of canine culture. If you stay patiently positive, train consistently, and redirect and reward good behavior, you will soon see a puppy that learns to bring you a tug toy instead of shredding your trousers. It is not intended to be nor can it be considered actionable professional advice. It must not be used as an alternative to seeking professional advice from a veterinarian or other certified professional. Please consult a professional before taking any course of action with any medical, health or behavioral related issue. Helps ease anxiety in their new home. We love using Bully Sticks to help divert these unwanted behaviors. For a list of all the supplies we get for our new service dog puppies check out our New Puppy Checklist on the PuppyInTraining. Print How to stop your puppy from biting your hands and feet — fast! Have you ever watched a litter of retriever puppies play with each other? They are all mouths and feet as they growl, bite and paw at each other. Over time, if left to it, each pup will naturally figure out their place in the pack. However, when you bring your Lab puppy home there are no longer littermates with whom to tussle. And the result is often that your Lab puppy will start biting and growling at you! The problem is that puppy teeth are sharp. Very sharp! And when your puppy bites you, even if they are playing, it hurts. So, what can you do to stop this behavior before it gets out of hand and you find yourself or someone in your family injured by your puppy? Before I go any further, I want to be clear about what we are talking about. You should seek professional help and evaluation. Why puppies bite and growl Puppy play is a kind of training for a dog as they grow and mature. It is also a way that dogs determine rank within a group. Remember, dogs are pack animals. In a pack there is only one Alpha lead dog. Every other dog is under the authority and control of that dog. No two dogs share the same rank. So, while biting and growling starts as play, it does not stay that way. All dogs, whether in a group of dogs or a human family, want to understand their place in the family. They need to know their place. It helps they be more mentally balanced and will help solve a multitude of behavioral problems. Once a puppy or dog understands where they rank in the pack, they often assume that place, at least for a while. Remember, they are dogs. They are not robots so occasionally they may challenge their position, but if the boundary remains clear, the challenge is short lived. Biting, nipping and playful growling at a human can become a challenge of dominance. If your puppy is young, you can quickly and easily end this behavior by establishing boundaries and consistently enforcing these boundaries each and every time your puppy shows this type of behavior. If you have let this behavior go on for a while, you may be in for quite a fight to take back your authority. Biting is not the same as chewing A puppy biting your hand or feet is not the same as a puppy chewing on a shoe, toy or other item. All puppies have a need to chew. As their puppy teeth grow and their adult teeth come in, it is common for dogs to chew on things to relieve the pain and help the new teeth to come in. This should not be discouraged, but rather encouraged on an appropriate item like a chew toy, nylabone or rawhide. And if this works, this is an appropriate solution. Instead, it is likely an issue of dominance. How to stop puppy from biting you Biting is just one puppy dominance behavior. There are many others such as jumping on you, putting a paw on your feet, and lifting and placing paws on your arms or legs. The behaviors I have listed are often gateway behaviors that escalate into more aggressive or troublesome behaviors like stealing food off your plate or the counter, pushing you out of the way when going through doors and pulling you around on a lead. Start by establishing firm boundaries The first step to stopping your puppy from biting or mouthing you is to set up firm boundaries for your puppy. You can set these up for not only biting but for all dominance behaviors. So, what is a boundary? Well, here are some examples. Some people we have worked with are okay with their puppy mouthing their hand as long as there is no tooth pressure. If you feel the same way, then make that a boundary. But if there is any tooth pressure, a swift and consistent correction will follow. This boundary is stronger and does not give the dog any room for confusion. In fact, they often will understand what your boundaries are but will test that standard against everyone else in the family. Each person needs to set and enforce boundaries. React with firm consistent corrections After you establish the boundary, you now need to react every time your puppy or dog crosses that boundary. Each and every time! There can be no room for confusion. Your corrections must be swift and consistent. Not all dogs react to the same level of pressure. For some dogs, this squeeze and strong words will be all it takes to stop the behavior. Especially if you are consistent in your correction. But some dogs have a stronger or more challenging personality. This will give your puppy a taste of his own medicine since his puppy teeth are sharp and will pinch into his lips or flews. You must be consistent. How long will it take to stop my puppy from biting me? If you are firm and consistent, the behavior should stop for the most part in a day or two. Some dogs require more pressure, some less. Your puppy should feel some discomfort. That is okay. The point is to show your puppy that biting hurts and that it is not an acceptable behavior. When nothing seems to work If you puppy is a bit older and has been getting away with biting and mouthing you for a while, you may struggle to end this behavior. Often the problem is a strong dominance issue that needs to be addressed. If your puppy continues to snap or bite at you even after a correction, you likely need to exert some dominance over your puppy. This is similar to what a mommy dog does to a puppy that is not behaving. Humans can do the same thing to show dominance over a rebellious puppy. I know, it sound a bit ridiculous but it really does work. Instead, remain calm and patient. Stay in control. Reacting with emotion can lead to strong reactions or punishment that you will later regret. The point is to show your dog that you are the Alpha in the relationship, and you can and will determine what behavior is acceptable. Biting is not love As a professional dog trainer, I am always surprised at what some of clients consider appropriate behavior. Some owners feel that setting boundaries and enforcing those boundaries means that you do not love your dog. That you need to accept all dog behaviors otherwise you do not love your dog. This is a false and faulty mindset. We have seen clients who have been injured by their dog multiple times and they still refuse to take steps to end the behavior. That is not love. What if the next person that dog bites is a child? Would you be able to live with that? A dog that is allowed to continue harming humans is only one bite away from having to be put down. It may sound harsh, but it is the sad truth. Some people may argue that the dog is unable to understand what they are doing is wrong. This is not based on reality. Dogs are very smart. They can learn to do amazing things and become incredible hunting partners and family companions. But they rarely achieve this potential without an owner who cares enough to set boundaries and enforce them. Final thoughts on how to stop my puppy biting me all the time You can stop your puppy from biting you and others if you are willing to take the steps necessary to make your dog understand that biting is not an acceptable behavior. A firm consistent correction each and every time your puppy bites will quickly teach your puppy to stop biting. These corrections will not harm your relationship with your puppy, but will, in fact, enhance it. Your puppy will quickly learn where the boundaries are and how to operate within those boundaries. We see it time and again, once a puppy is taught that there are boundaries, they quickly adjust and become wonderful loving and obedient family members. Help, my Lab puppy keeps biting me! How to teach your puppy bite inhibition. To make sure your puppy stays out of trouble, when he comes home it is your job to put the finishing touches to his bite inhibition ability. This is especially important if he does not have a great deal of access to playing with other dogs. The right way to stop your puppy biting All puppies bite. And biting hurts! Puppies have very sharp teeth and they bite really firmly. Often making fierce growling noises whilst they do so. You may be tempted to correct your puppy firmly for biting, after all, he needs to know it is wrong to bite people! A process that will help you put an end to biting, even though it takes a little longer. Conflicting advice is very confusing, and the best way to be confident in what you are doing is often to drill down to the reasons behind each approach. And studies suggest that if good bite inhibition ability is not acquired by the time a puppy is around five months old, it may never be achieved. Stopping your puppy biting! Some people, including some experienced dog breeders , will recommend that you simply stop your puppy from biting by firmly correcting him each time he does so. Some will even advise physical punishment. And it does. So this might seem like a sensible course of action. But there is a problem here. Suddenly stopping puppies from biting may give you a fast result, at the expense of some more important aims. One problem with correcting a puppy for biting is that the puppy quickly learns to be selective about who he bites. This is very important in families with children where puppies will often bite children ferociously, long after they have learned that biting grown ups has an undesirable and even painful consequence. Being completely prevented from even gentle biting, may mean that the puppy does not learn just how much force is safe to use on people. Why is bite inhibition for puppies so important? The trouble is, stopping biting is not the same as learning to control biting. The concern is that preventing the puppy from learning advanced bite inhibition may cause him to harm a human. Perhaps much later in life, when his bite is much more powerful and potentially dangerous. The answer is that there are triggers for biting, that may cause any dog, no matter how nice, to bite. Those triggers are fear, and pain. Many dogs that are injured, will bite for example. Many perfectly nice dogs that are trapped and tormented by a toddler, will eventually bite. We can do our best to make sure that our dog is never injured or tormented, but we cannot always be sure of protecting him. One day he may be hurt or badly teased, his growl of warning may be ignored. Small children are especially vulnerable in this kind of situation, as they fail to recognise the intention of a growling dog. If your dog is forced to defend himself, he may do what dogs do in this situation, and bite. Or at the very least, their homes. Most dog bites are not serious Although many people get bitten by dogs, fortunately, most dog bites are not serious. The reason for this is that most dogs do have good bite inhibition. So that if he is ever put in the awful situation of having to defend himself, he is able to pull his punches and give a mild warning bite. Essentially, by teaching good bite inhibition to our puppies, we are doing what we can to ensure that their bite is always inhibited. And never the bone crushing, devastating bite that a fully grown dog is capable of. How to teach your puppy bite inhibition What you will be doing is providing your dog with numerous opportunities to find that really painful bites are not rewarding for him. This means ending any game or cuddle, and if necessary removing yourself from his presence. Some puppies will stop biting if you squeak, squeal or yelp, and many people recommend that you do this. By all means try this. But be aware, the noise has no effect on some puppies and is encouraging to others. Your main trump card is the thing your puppy wants more than anything else — your attention. The rule for the first month is Withdraw all attention from the puppy for very hard bites Allow less painful biting and mouthing This is teaching him to reduce the force or pressure that he applies with his jaws. As a rough guide, aim for eliminating all painful biting by around three months of age Persistence and repetition in stopping your puppy biting Persistent repetition is the key. This is a process, not an event. If you correct the puppy for biting, be careful not to frighten him so much that he stops biting altogether. He needs to work through this learning process. Most experts now agree that it is better not to use correction at all for this process. Once you have withdrawn your attention for a short while, offer the puppy a toy to bite on or play with. Or let him sit on your lap and chew on a toy whilst you hold on to the other end. And become much more sensitive about how hard your puppy can bite. Until by about four or five months old, he is no more than gently mouthing at your hands. At this point, all force or pressure in his bite should be eliminated. The final stage of teaching bite inhibition Of course, mouthing is not acceptable in an adult dog. And the last phase in our training puts an end to mouthing. Calm puppy behavior. Conflicting advice on how to stop your pup biting Many articles will tell you to ignore a puppy when he bites and to offer him a toy instead. Some people will tell you to punish your biting puppy. Others will tell you that you must not stop your puppy biting too suddenly, or punish him for biting, for fear of drastic consequences later. So who is right, and who is wrong? Does ignoring stop your puppy biting? Many new puppy owners try to ignore the biting puppy initially. This failure tends to be for one or more of the following reasons. Does noise stop puppy biting? There is no doubt that a sufficiently loud squeal, followed by immediate withdrawal of attention, will cause many Labrador puppies to break off from biting. Sometimes long enough for a skilled owner to then redirect the puppy into a more appropriate activity. There is also no doubt that for some puppies, this has the reverse effect, and causes them to bite harder and more fiercely. A puppy that has spent sufficient time with his Mum, may be more likely to take heed of this verbal warning, as he will expect it to be followed by a sharp click of her teeth and a fiercer rebuke if he ignores her. But there are no guarantees here. And the fact is, squealing simply does not work as an effective anti-biting strategy, for some puppies. Punishing the puppy to stop biting I have heard, even quite experienced, breeders tell new puppy owners to punish their puppy if he bites. Either by intimidating the puppy with an angry growling voice, or even with physical punishment such as a scruff shake or slap. But there are problems with this approach. This process is called bite inhibition. And the use of punishment may curtail all biting rather than just the hardest, most painful, bites. Nowadays many people like to train dogs without punishment. And there are strong reasons for joining them — check out this article — the downside of punishing dogs. Teaching puppy to stop biting Why would we want to teach dogs to bite humans gently? Why is it not best to teach them not to bite at all, right from the start? The idea of reducing biting gradually was popularised by Ian Dunbar. The theory is that a dog which learns to inhibit his bite i. You can read more about bite inhibition here: Labrador Puppies Biting. The concept is a sound one, and most canine behaviorists agree that teaching gradual bite inhibition is a good thing. The problem for many new puppy owners, is stopping those painful bites in the first place! The first step is not a technique at all, but an adjustment in the expectations that we have of a small puppy How much do Lab puppies bite? New puppy owners tend to have false expectations of puppies. They also anticipate that stopping a puppy from biting will be a fairly quick and simple matter. None of these expectations is true. Most puppies bite hard, frequently and growl fiercely whilst they are doing it. This noise is not a sign of aggression see Help my puppy is aggressive. Stopping a puppy from biting is a process, a journey. And it can be temporarily an uncomfortable one! It is important to accept that there is no guaranteed way of stopping biting immediately. Indeed, as we have seen, bite prevention rather than inhibition may be a bad thing in any case. Supervise your puppy around children Once you have got your head around the fact that this process will take some time, that it will be a gradual thing, you need to think about how you are going to protect any children that might come into contact with the puppy. This is important because small children can, both hurt and, be hurt by small biting puppies. Calm your puppy to stop him biting The next priority is to keep your puppy calm. Overexcited puppies bite harder and more frequently than less excited puppies. This will merely start the biting up all over again. There are lots of ways to interact with puppies without physically playing with them. Check out our article on playing safely with your dog. What to do when a puppy bites When your puppy bites you really hard, take immediate action. Stand up, move away from him and completely withdraw your attention. You can try the squeal thing if you want to. This works well with some puppies. Be ready for it, and repeat your actions. If the puppy chases after you, biting at your legs and feet, step over a baby gate, or pop him in his crate for a few minutes. You can read up on this process in more detail in this article: How to cope with biting. Remember, puppies enjoy chewing , and teething puppies need to chew on something. Whilst you and your clothing are not suitable chew toys, you need to provide your puppy with alternatives, like Kong toys. How to stop your puppy biting Biting is normal Biting should be inhibited in stages Training takes time The key points to take away from this are that biting is normal, and that training a puppy not to bite takes time. Stop the painful bites first, then work on putting a stop to mouthing. If what you are doing is not working, you probably just need to be more patient and persistent. If your children are suffering, you need to separate and supervise. Work hard on keeping your puppy calm — it makes the biggest difference.


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