male puppy german shepherd

male puppy german shepherd - Top Picks For Our Dogs Preparing Your Home For A Puppy You should treat the preparation of your home for the arrival of a new puppy in much the same way as you would for the arrival of a baby because the process is almost identical. You must be ready to provide every little thing your puppy needs in life, making sure they have water, are fed, comfortable, happy, catered for and safe. To achieve this there are 4 main things that you need to do: Go shopping for equipment and supplies Puppy proof your home and garden to make sure your puppy stays safe Set up an area for your puppy to sleep and spend time in when you cannot supervise them Decide on the rules and routines required to successfully raise a puppy Without such preparation, things will be difficult. A Nutritious Puppy Food The most important supply needed for a new puppy is a highly nutritious puppy food. Hopefully your puppy came from a responsible breeder who was feeding them a high quality, complete and nutritious food. If so, you should ask what they were feeding, stock up on and continue feeding this if possible. If not, then puppies are incredibly active, growing fast and developing bone, muscle and more every day. Because of this they need almost double the calories, more protein and have different nutritional needs to mature adult dogs. Furthermore, they have far smaller mouths than adult dogs so puppy food comes in smaller chunks more suited to their size. Click here to see our recommendations for the best puppy food for labs Bowls for Food And Water There is a bewildering array of dog bowl choices out there so choosing the best can be difficult. Looks and design aside, I recommend going for stainless steel bowls because they are long-lasting, cannot be chewed and are very easy to clean. I also recommend buying bowls with heavy rubber bottoms so they stay rooted to the spot and are harder to spill or flip over. Unless of course you buy bowls in a stand, then these problems are already solved. A Puppy Crate And Bedding A good crate is one of the most beneficial things you can provide for the good of yourself and your puppy. First of all, supply some bedding to place inside for your puppy to sleep on. My recommendation for this is VetBed. Many puppies can chew and ingest normal bedding which can result in medical emergencies and VetBed is the most durable bedding on the market. During these times you need to provide a larger, but still safe enclosure to confine your puppy. You might also like to buy a plastic sheet and some puppy pads or use lots of old newspaper for them to use as a potty in your absence. Puppy Chew Toys Puppies chew. A lot. And they seem to prefer chewing phones, footwear and TV remotes more than anything else. Just make sure whatever toys you do buy are suitable for a puppy as many will be too large for their little mouths to begin with. Interactive Puppy Toys So you can play games with your puppy, provide exercise and mental stimulation, you will want to buy a few toys that encourage the two of you to interact. Balls for throwing and chasing, soft toys and ropes for playing tug, other toys for fetch, there are many available. You will also need a collar to provide a place to attach an all important ID tag. ID Tag An ID tag is an essential means to be reunited with your puppy should the worst happen and you somehow lose them or they run away. Clicker A clicker is an extremely useful tool used during training as a reward marker that dramatically improves the timing of communication between you and your puppy when you want to reward a behavior. Although not essential, I do highly recommend you use one. Puppy Training Treats Tasty food treats are the go-to reward used during training so you will want to make sure you always have a good stock at hand. They need to feel happy with being bathed, happy having their coat and teeth brushed, their feet touched, nails clipped and having their eyes and ears inspected. To do so, you should fake going the process, getting them used to being handled, the sight and feel of the tools and so on. To achieve this, you will need to buy and get them used to the following items: Dog shampoo Combs and brushes suitable for a Labrador Scissors Cotton balls Toothbrush Use these tools right away and often, and give your puppy praise and tasty treats as you go so they form positive associations with grooming. Puppy Proof Your Home and Garden The process of puppy proofing your home is very much like baby proofing before the arrival of a child. Except a puppy is far more curious, active and destructive and can get themselves into far more trouble. A puppy is a new-born. Everything is a toy and they will run and pounce and jump and chew on anything in their environment. So before you bring your puppy home you simply must make it safe for them. For things you cannot move skirting boards, table legs etc. To keep them safe while still providing an area for them to play in and stretch their legs, you want to restrict their access to a single room, or otherwise create an enclosed space for them. To do so, either buy a pet barrier or baby gate that goes across a doorway to restrict them to an easy to clean and safe room, or buy an exercise pen puppy pen to create an enclosed space in another room. I also strongly recommend buying a crate for many reasons, but initially, mostly just to provide the perfect place for them to sleep. I shall discuss crate training a little later in this article. All of this must be decided BEFORE you get your puppy home because consistency is a key part of raising a puppy successfully. Everyone must enforce and live by the same rules for your puppy to thrive. Initially they have no idea how you want them to behave, or how and when they can expect the things they want and need in life. The more consistent everybody is with the puppy, the quicker they will learn all this stuff and the happier everyone will be. So decide and write down if necessary when your puppy will have all their needs met, make sure everybody knows who is responsible for each task and make sure everybody knows the rules. You might think the collection and journey home with your new puppy is no big deal, but there are many things can go wrong. Therefore, you should never take a puppy before 8 weeks old. During the first 8 weeks, a puppy learns a lot from their mother and litter-mates: Bite inhibition, canine body language, acceptable play and interaction with other dogs and how to accept discipline. Things you will find it very hard to teach them later yourself. The flip side of this is that the 7 to 14 week stage is the most impressionable for a puppy, where they bond strongest with people and must be socialized to all the sights, sounds and smells of the world so they grow up confident and comfortable with their surroundings. So anyway, for the journey home there a few things you need to consider: Safety in the car, the need for water and toilet breaks and the possibility your puppy will be sick. Having a loose puppy in the car presents a very real danger of leading to a crash, they can easily climb out of a box and now is not the time to use a harness and car safety belt. If the crate is small enough you can place it on a front or rear passenger seat and secure it with the seat-belt, or you may have to place it in the trunk of your car. Fully line the crate with absorbent paper in case there are any accidents, this will keep most of the mess off your puppy and make cleaning easier. And finally, place a chew toy or two in the crate to keep your puppy occupied. If you have another person to help you, your puppy can ride home in their lap if the journey is short. They must be under your passengers control. They will also need to potty every half or so. Therefore, you should plan breaks along the way every 30 minutes or so. Stop the car, allow them to drink, then wait for them to wee before setting off again. When you stop, make sure your puppy is on leash and tightly held by someone before letting them out of the car. And as an extra precaution, carry your puppy and only put them down to do their business, then carry them back into the car. Take with you some towels, plastic bags, kitchen roll and deodorizer to take care of any accidents. And when driving, take all corners slowly, and accelerate and brake gently. If your puppy is on a passengers lap, they will be able to see some warning signs that puppy is about to be sick: Their lips will curl, they will excessively salivate and then eventually start to heave. When your passenger spots these signs, they can place a thick towel beneath the puppy to catch everything and avoid a mess in your vehicle. When bringing home a new puppy, make sure you collect them and then drive straight home. Your puppy is having the most stressful day of their short life so far, try not to make it harder than it already is by taking them to strange places and passing them around to strangers to say hello. You want to get them home quickly so they can start the process of settling in as soon as possible. Whether this is inside on paper, or a spot outside, as soon as you arrive home carry them there, set them down and wait for them to do their business before doing anything else. This might take 30 seconds or it might take 10 minutes, but patiently wait and when they go, praise them profusely. Well done! Shut them in another room away from the puppy as things are intense enough as it is. Explain they have to be calm and gentle during the first introductions. Let them sniff and look around, getting used to the area and their new little world. You can now let people come and say hello. Have people sit or kneel to greet them. Once everybody has said hello, you should stay with your puppy, show interest but stay calm. Allow Your Puppy To Sleep After all the excitement, stress, massive change and huge amount of mental stimulation your puppy has just been through, they will likely need to sleep soon after arriving at your home. So as soon as they either start to look tired, or the introductions to their new living space and family have ended whichever comes first put them to bed for a short while. On the other hand they might feel completely overwhelmed, retreat into themselves and show reluctance to explore. They might slink into a corner silently and sit there watching their new world with wonder but apprehension, before falling asleep for hours. And when it comes to the first night they might sleep right through, or they might cry and whine the whole night. As your puppy begins to get used to everything, their character will start to shine through and you will begin to see their true personalities. Exactly what this will be is different for every puppy…it will be fun for you to find out! And by being the provider of everything they need in life, giving them all that is good, it will only take 2 or 3 days for your puppy to learn to love you and get excited and happy to see you when you turn up. So your task is to set up and stick to these schedules, begin training your puppy and help them to learn how you want them to behave and when they can expect the things they need in life. What should you feed your puppy You should feed your puppy the same food they had at the breeders because an abrupt change in diet almost always leads to stomach upset. Complete and balanced means it has everything a puppy needs, and in the right quantities. So seek out this kind of wording and check the internet for other owners reviews. Puppies need to eat a lot because their rate of growth is very high. For puppies up to 12 weeks, you should divide their daily requirement into 4 portions, for puppies 12 to 26 weeks, feed them 3 times per day and from 26 weeks on feed them twice per day. You should also aim to feed them as close as you can to the same times every day and evenly spaced throughout the day. This will help their body clocks fall into a pattern and will help your house training immensely because they then potty the same times every day. For example: 8 to 12 weeks old, 4 times a day at AM, AM, PM and PM 12 to 26 weeks old, 3 times a day at AM, PM and PM 26 weeks old and ongoing, 2 times a day at and Obviously you can adjust these times to take into account when you get out of bed and to fit around your life. Also… The first few nights have the crate or exercise pen your puppy sleeps in placed in your bedroom. One night move the crate next to the bedroom door. The next night move it outside the door, but leave the door open so they can still see you. The next night further into the hallway. Finally to their eventual resting place. They might take to sleeping on their own OK, they might whine and cry. NEVER go to them to comfort them if they cry, you must only get up to take them to potty and then silently and without fuss put them back into the crate. Rewarding silence and ignoring noise is the only way they will eventually learn to be quiet at night themselves. Any time you cannot closely supervise them, you have to confine them, either in their crate, an exercise pen or a puppy proofed room secured with a barrier across the doorway. The point of confining them as a puppy is so they can enjoy all the freedom in the world once they are an adult. By confining them with treat dispensing chew toys they get rewarded for chewing the right things and develop a chew toy obsession. Confine them now, they form a good chew toy obsession and have no chance of developing bad chewing habits. Then once they are over their adolescent chewing stage you slowly open up the house to them and eventually they can have free roam and be completely trusted. A little sacrifice when young for a better life later. And a second hugely important reason for confining your puppy when you cannot supervise them is for speedier house training. In fact if you read my comments from earlier, you will see you start the very first moment you finish the journey home. In essence, house training is about creating good habits while avoiding bad ones and for the speediest success you want to start immediately. Wherever your puppy is able to potty has the chance of becoming their favored toilet spot for many weeks or months to come. So you want to prevent them pottying inside, and encourage them to potty outside. The main ingredients of a successful house training program are preventing mistakes and praising heavily for doing the right thing. Achieving this is all about schedules, supervision and confinement. Now, your puppy will need to potty anywhere from every 15 to 45 minutes. So to start with, take them outside every 30 minutes and adjust this schedule to suit their natural rhythm. You must also take them outside immediately after they wake up from any sleep, after any eating or drinking, after play and after any heightened excitement. These are times that often lead to a puppy needing to potty so take them outside at these times and you will avoid many mistakes while taking advantage of predictable opportunities to praise them for doing the right thing. In the first week or so, you will likely find your puppy almost instantaneously leaks with little warning. Simply do your best to take them out to potty extremely often so they go in the right place as often as possible. And confine them to a single enclosed room or in an exercise pen for the first week or so to protect your carpets. Crate training goes hand in hand with house training, being one of the best tools to help speed up the process. Therefore, you want to start crate training very early on, after just a few days of getting puppy home, and I personally aim for 9 weeks old to start. I prefer to wait a week or so to avoid them pottying in the crate as much as possible, doing the most I can to preserve their instinct not to soil where they sleep, the instinct that helps most when using a crate for house training. But by all means sleep them in their crate at night if you wish and I do. For more information on crate training your puppy and using it for house training purposes, please see the links below:. Cape Town, South Africa In retrospect, we didn't have a clue about bringing a new puppy home, even though I'd done a lot of reading and we had bought all the essentials. I'd read that I should take his bed with us and get his mum to lie on it -- which she did promptly when we put it down! We also took a big teddy and rubbed his mum with it to get her smell and to this day, that teddy is on his bed, just a tiny hole chewed into it, but amazingly was spared the puppy gnawing that most other toys went through and didn't survive! A vet who had bought one of the other boys had brought along a special collar with pheromones that apparently calm a distressed puppy and help him think his mom is around. She had cut it to size and left the leftover length with the breeder. The breeder put it on Snowie and said it would help.We had about an 8-hour journey ahead of us including stops. I held Snowie on my lap initially on top of the "smelly" teddy with his mum's smell and he cried and cried and cried and cried and I told my husband we should turn around and take him back to his mum and siblings, it was so distressing. But we persevered and about an hour later he stopped crying and settled down. We stopped a lot because we thought he'd want to wee every half an hour! I don't know why we were terrified he'd wee or poo in the car -- so what! But we stopped every moment it looked like he wanted to "go", and each time he didn't, so clearly we had no clue what "wanting to go" looked like! We had a tiny pink harness for him, that we borrowed, and which he wore until he grew out of a few months later -- everyone thought he was a girl, he was so pretty in pink! Having the harness definitely helped when taking him out of the car during the journey, at least we knew he was safe and couldn't dart away -- he was very adventurous and curious. We also didn't have a clue about feeding him during the journey. My sister-in-law whose dad is a vet said we should not feed him anything before or during to prevent vomiting in case of car sickness. But the breeder said no, he must have lunch, can't starve a puppy for 8 hours. Because we didn't know where we'd get hot water to pour on his pellets to soften them, she gave us some rice and a sachet of her cat's food that was wet, and he gobbled it up at lunch time! He eventually made a poo at one of our stops around 5pm. I was quite traumatised by the whole event. But now having been through it, I wouldn't worry at all! Good luck!! Non-slip bottom dog dishes Puppies naturally move their dish around as they are eating, especially if the dish has a flat bottom that easily pushes around the floor. We have found that dishes with a non-slip bottom can help so that your puppy is not chasing around his food dish. Make sure that it is large enough. And since dogs grow fast, that means they will likely grow to that size within a year to a year and a half. Almost all dogs we train eat between 4 -6 cups of dog food a day. So, make sure that your dish is large enough to accommodate this many cups. Water dish It is vitally important that your puppy have access to clean water for drinking. With the puppies we raise, we have found that it can be challenging to keep a small water dish full, so we prefer to use these 2-gallon water dishes. They are easy to fill and allow us to only have to fill them a couple times a week instead of several times a day. We suggest that you introduce a lead to your puppy as they start to grow in confidence and walk further from you when outside. There are two great reasons to do this early on. First it teaches your puppy how to handle the pressure of not being able to go wherever they want whenever they want. And it keeps your puppy from developing a habit of running away from you. A Flexi-lead works especially well if you want to give your puppy a little more freedom to go do his potty business but still keep control. Toys Puppies need toys. If you do not give them toys that they CAN chew and play with, they will chew on your sofa leg, or a book or a blanket or anything else they can find. So, purchase some good durable puppy chew toys. But watch your pup carefully. As they get older and stronger, they will be able to rip apart cloth toys and ingest them. Or they will chew rubber toys into small pieces and eat them. When your pup gets strong enough to destroy toys, it is time to take away the puppy toys and give them only dog toys designed for older , larger dogs or quality rawhides that they can chew that will not cause digestive problems. Stay away from rope toys. Many puppies have managed to ingest strings and ropes requiring surgery to remove them. Puppy-sized bumper If your plan is for your Labrador puppy to become a hunting or competition dog, you should have a puppy sized bumper. Learn more about teaching your puppy to fetch in this post. Barriers I recommend that you section off a small portion of your home and not let your puppy have full run of the entire house. Learn more about housebreaking your Lab puppy in this post. To section off a part, it can be helpful to have some child-gates available or an area of your home that you can close doors. This means that you need to show your puppy where the boundaries are and what is and is not allowed. To do this, you will need a few more tools. This is often when we see dogs that are running away from their owners, playing keep-a-way when retrieving and just basically being naughty. A lot of this could be avoided with the use of a check cord. Yes, a check cord can be cumbersome and often a pain to use, but it only takes one or two times of your puppy running away from you to make it worth it. Put a check cord on your puppy and allow them to drag it around with them. This alone is a great lesson for a dog. Dragging the weight is a type of pressure that they will need to learn to deal with. Occasionally, step on the rope and allow your dog to feel the pressure of being stopped and controlled. These sound like such minor things, but you would be surprised how much more well-adjusted your puppy will be just from learning these minor lessons. Chain or prong collar As your puppy gets stronger, it will get more and more difficult to control your puppy with a lead just hooked up to a nylon collar. As you notice that your puppy is getting harder to control, is pulling you around or dragging you down the street, you need to move to a chain or prong collar. Actually, it would be best if you changed to a chain or prong collar long before this becomes an issue. Remember, it is always easier to fix problems when they are small rather than waiting for them to become huge problems. Larger bumpers for retrieving dogs As your dog gets larger, you will want to move away from the puppy bumper and start using regular sized retrieving bumpers. We prefer to use plastic or rubber bumpers since they do not get as dirty or smelly as the canvas ones. They also last a lot longer and can be used for both water and land retrieves. Learn all about the different bumpers used for training hunting dogs here. Orange is a color that is difficult for retrievers to see, so that color should not be used for young dogs that are just learning about retrieving and hunting. Save the orange ones for advanced dogs working on blind retrieves. Final thoughts on What do I need to buy for a Lab puppy? There are many things that you will need for your new puppy both now and in the future. Take some time to prepare before you bring your puppy home so that you will avoid buying things on impulse that you may or may not need. If you are planning on using your puppy as a hunting or competition dog, check out 6 vital tools every gun dog trainer needs. You can email me at ottertailkennels gmail. I would be happy to discuss your goals for your retriever and tell you about the programs I offer. Until next time happy retrieving. What do I need to buy for a Lab puppy? Print We recently brought home Bubba, a female chocolate lab puppy. Bubba is already sold as one of our Custom Trained Retrievers, so it is our responsibility to train her and raise her until she has progressed to the level of training the owner has requested. That means Bubba will be with for almost a year and a half. We train one or two of these puppies each year, and over the years we have gotten pretty good at it. We also train adult dogs for hunting and competition, so we see a lot of dogs come into our program. Dogs that have each been raised differently. There are some definite training tips that can help you help your lab grow up to be the best version of himself. Training and socialization for very young Labrador puppies — week one The first week of a puppy being away from its litter is very stressful for the puppy. Most often, the first two days, the puppy will sleep a lot! The pup is adjusting to all the changes, and they need time to do that. After the first couple days you may notice a spike of energy. This is your sign that the puppy is adjusting well and is ready to be exposed to a few more things. Labrador puppy training that first week home Here are the things we work on during week one. A nylon adjustable one is usually best since puppies grow quickly. It often takes the puppy a few days to adjust to having a collar on. Intro crate We introduce our puppies to a crate on day one. Literally the day we bring them home. Most puppies will cry, bark or howl while in the crate the first few or many times. Ignore it, it does not hurt the puppy at all. Always wait until the puppy settles down and is quiet, even if that quiet only lasts for just a minute or two. Learn more about crate training. Intro to housebreaking Another day one lesson and one that will last for a few weeks or months. We introduce housebreaking day one by allowing the puppy to run around an enclosed area under close supervision. If your puppy then goes potty outside, great! The thing to remember about housebreaking, is that your puppy should never be allowed to roam the house or a room without supervision. The only way to housebreak a dog is for them to get caught in the middle of an accident. That is how they learn that what they are doing is not right. Learn more about housebreaking. Intro leash We introduce a leash to our puppies around day three of being home. But once they start getting more energy and get more inquisitive, we use a Flexi-lead attached to the nylon collar to take the puppy outside. This accomplishes two goals. The gentle tugs on the leash and pressure when the puppy strains against the leash are great training for handling pressure as they get older. Intro to pressure and correction The last thing we introduce to our new puppy during the first week home is pressure and correction. This is an often-missing element to training that can severely handicap a dog that you want to be a hunting companion or competition dog. The kind of pressure I am talking about is very mild such as saying NO to the puppy when they are chewing up your shoes or scratching through the carpet. This is the way mama dogs carry their puppies and it does not hurt them at all. This does not hurt the puppy; it is exactly what a mama dog does to teach her puppies. Learn more about introducing pressure and correction. Commands to start using that first week home The first week there are some commands we start using so that the puppy will associate the words we use with actions. Puppies play and explore with their mouths, and often they will think it is great fun to bite your hands and feet. If this does not curb the behavior, I grab her lower jaw, wrapping her gums around her teeth and squeeze. I have found this to be very effective, especially if you start this the first week you have the puppy home. The longer you wait to start, the harder it becomes to stop this behavior. It takes very little pressure to stop a 7-week-old puppy from biting. Learn more about how to stop your Lab puppy from biting you. Off command The OFF command is also started day one. The OFF command is used to stop a puppy or dog from jumping on you. It can also be used to keep a dog off a sofa or other furniture. Starting day one, I gently use my knee to push down the puppy each time they jump on me. I say OFF when I do this. Usually, a gentle push with the knee is all it takes with a very small puppy. They learn this command very quickly. If your puppy is a bit more energetic or stubborn and tries to jump on you despite your gentle pushes, then you may need to use a little more force. Even if you were to knock your puppy backwards onto her back, that is not going to hurt her seriously. But it will likely make a good impression and cause her to think twice before jumping on you again. With jumping, consistency is important. You must knock your puppy off every time she jumps on you. Learn more about how to stop your Lab from jumping on you. We use this as a que when we are taking the puppy outside to go potty. We use this while the puppy is on a leash, and we are pulling them toward us. I only use this command for very young dogs. Your goal is to get the puppy to rest in your arms and not move. But if you keep at it, you will see your dog settle for longer and longer periods of time. Introduction to retrieving Lastly, since all our puppies are retrievers, we start introducing the puppy to retrieving. The first few times are simply throwing a toy a few feet and if the puppy runs out and gets it and comes back to you, great. Then take the item and throw it again. If the puppy does not come back or does not even run out to get the item, then stop for the day. Just let the retrieving develop naturally. Next week we will start more formal retrieving training. Final thoughts on what you should do that first week with your new Labrador puppy As you can see, there is a lot of training that you can do with your seven- or eight-week-old puppy. And while you can wait for training, your puppy is ready and able to learn quickly right now. I will be posting weekly on the training we are doing with Bubba, so you can get a week-by-week snapshot of how we raise and train a puppy up to be a excellent, responsive hunting or competition dog as well as a well-mannered family dog. If you are struggling or need additional help with your new puppy, you can email me ottertailkennels gmail. I would be happy to discuss your goals for your retriever and tell you about the programs I offer. Until next time, happy retrieving. However, a healthy six-month-old labrador will grow significantly in size. Some of them can weigh up to 50 pounds. For a more balanced diet at six months, you can shift from feeding your puppy three smaller meals per day to two meals a day. To counteract this, you can drop the amount of food and gradually increase it. Setting Your Lab Puppy Up for Successful Potty Training Training an animal to control their bladders until you get outside is no different than potty-training for toddlers. In other words, crate training speeds up the potty-training process for your pet. Effective crate training depends on two things: Praising and rewarding your puppy for relieving itself outside. They come to understand this as a desirable behavior. Preventing your puppy from going to the toilet within the home. So, why is using a crate to train your puppy to go outside so effective? Initially, this should be every hour or so. As labs grow older, you can reduce the frequency as they learn to hold and release independently. Step 2: House Training a Lab Puppy Housetraining or potty-training small labs can be, well, frustrating. As a pet owner, there are simple ways to train your puppy to understand ideal behavior quickly. Instead, they simply forget that they should control it. This helps avoid any issues early on. Keep small labrador puppies off the carpet. How to Feed Your Dog for Optimal Growth Feeding your labrador puppy a balanced diet could be an entire guide all on its own. It can feel overwhelming because you do have many options when it comes to feeding your dog. For example, if you work from home, it would be easy to feed your dog homemade dog food. Similarly, you might work a and yet want to reap the health-related benefits of a raw diet. Make sure to speak to your vet first. You do have choices for what to feed your puppy and you can mix and match these. Popular feeding options for any animal include kibble, wet food, raw food, and home-cooked food. Remember, a puppy is still growing, and they need a complete profile of nutrients and minerals to support their development. There are many commercial brands of dry food or kibble to choose from and you can adjust what you buy based on the ingredients. Do your research and find a brand you trust, with as much bioavailable nutritional content as is helpful. These can harm your puppy. In order to maintain good health and prevent simple ailments, your puppy can also benefit from taking a supplement. Some families choose to mix scraps or raw food with kibble to provide moisture and decrease the amount of food versus the calories consumed. Any veterinarian will tell you that a hard and fast rule is not necessarily the type of food but the amount. Obesity is a condition that can lead to many health issues for this breed. Over-exertion, especially for a puppy, is possible. This includes activities like playing fetch or tug and release. However, breeds that worked as a hunting companion for humans love to be active. Again, this goes back to the strengths of the breed. Keeping up with your puppy could be a task-and-a-half, so in the first months of life, you should be keeping them in your backyard or playing with them at home. As they become house trained and get all their vaccinations, you can turn walks into light jogs or runs if you want. In the long-term, exercise will help keep dogs healthy and disease-free. However, early dog training can eliminate common problems with puppy temperament and help make sure that your fur friend is always as friendly and happy as possible through the years. Puppy socialization simply means making your puppy open to and familiar with new experiences. You want to provide stimulation and encounters with experiences that they will probably face as adults. The window of opportunity to make sure your puppy is always a happy and friendly pooch closes around 14 weeks. Pre-Vaccination Lab Puppy Socialization Any veterinarian will tell you that a puppy is all done with their vaccinations after 12 weeks of age. The main point is to keep your puppy away from other dogs who may not yet be vaccinated or the excrement and markings of other animals that could carry data diseases. You can head to an off-leash dog park to allow them to explore and meet other fur friends. You can also take them beyond your backyard to the countryside to enable them to swim or set up obstacle courses and play with them. Another thing that people forget about is spaying or neutering their dogs. Spaying or neutering your dog could help with behavioral issues and can also reduce the onset of certain health conditions. At the same time, spaying or neutering a puppy too early may also lead to health issues. For many people, this is a worthwhile and even enjoyable trade-off. A happy, sociable dog is always the result of consistent training. Training your dog is a significant aspect of their early years. The different stages include: Get it — Using positive reinforcement, trainers will help your dog carry out actions without commands. Teach it — This stage harnesses the progress you made in the previous stages. Your dog now knows the word and the action that goes with it. Proof it — Proofing is where many people get stuck. Your dog will learn to listen and obey commands at this stage even when they are engaged in other things. Maintain it — Consistently using the techniques you learned to keep your dog following the same desirable behavior. All breeds of dogs respond best when you train them. Every labrador retriever relies on their human taking control and showing them how to respond in any situation. You can be sure that if you follow these tips that you will be taking proper care of your new puppy and will be able to make sure that your puppy will live a long and healthy life. Share on. Quiet nights and crate training. This article will take you through everything you need to know, from what to buy, to how to help your pup settle in on his first day and night. Bringing a Puppy Home Bringing home a new 8 or 9 week old puppy is a potentially stressful experience for you and the pup. Of course, it will be better if you have been able to visit your puppy regularly before collecting him. But for most people, time and distance make this an unlikely option. Everything he sees, smells and hears, in your home will seem very strange to him at first. Fortunately, most puppies leave their mother and siblings at an age when they will readily accept their new friends and family. In a few days time, he will have settled in and accepted your home as his, and your family as his own. Holding Your Puppy The first thing to master when bringing home a new puppy is holding them the right way. This is the most comfortable position for puppies. But if you have had a long car journey, the first thing your puppy will need is to pee! Carry him in your arms to the area you want him to use for toilet purposes, and put him down there. Your first steps in potty training have begun. Maintaining Regular Bathroom Breaks Puppies vary widely in how often they need to empty their bladder. Some may last an hour or more from day one, whilst others seem to need to go every 15 minutes or so. During the course of the day, take the puppy to the toilet area at regular intervals half hourly at least to begin with. In addition, take him there every time he finishes a meal or wakes from a sleep. Set an alarm on your cell phone to remind you. Many Labrador puppies are very greedy and will eat astonishing quantities of food. New puppies are especially prone to upset tummies. The new environment and the stress of leaving home all add to the risk. You can reduce that risk by feeding little and often. If you want to change diets, do this gradually once the puppy has settled in. How often to feed Four times a day is the minimum number of feeds for an 8 week old puppy. Five or even six portions are better for a puppy with an upset tummy. Remember that the daily quantity is the same. More portions means smaller portions. If you get this right, there will be little or nothing left to put in the bowl when mealtimes come around You can find out more about using puppy food in training games by joining our Puppy Parenting course Meeting the Kids Bringing home a new puppy is an exciting time for all the family. For much of the first day, your puppy will probably be cuddled and admired. Kids should also be aware of safety precautions, such as learning to let the pup be if he seems uncomfortable. Some older dogs will play too roughly with a puppy. Others will growl and appear to reject the puppy at first. These are normal reactions but they do indicate that you are going to need to keep a close eye on things for a while. A baby gate or other barrier is a perfect way to keep a puppy from annoying the resident dog or cat while they adjust to the newcomer. As the day draws to a close, your thoughts will turn to night time, and getting your puppy to sleep! Or he howls the house down either constantly or intermittently throughout the night. There are two approaches to choosing where a puppy sleeps for those first few nights. One is to get him used to his permanent sleeping quarters right from the start. The other is to have him next to your bed until he has got over his homesickness usually three or four days. And if you keep going back, the howling may well increase. Leaving a puppy to cry alone in a strange house is also probably very distressing for the puppy and not a great way to start their new life. But we recommend having the puppy next to your bed for the first three nights. This reduces the risk of getting into an increasing spiral of night howling or having your puppy miserable for the first week. Just pop his blankets in there and put the box right next to where you sleep. Night waking Most 8 week old puppies wake in the night to pee for the first week or so. But the first few days is a time for settling your puppy in, building their confidence and avoiding bad habits such as whining or howling, getting started The best way to meet all those goals, is to keep your puppy very close to you until their homesickness has passed. Bonding with your puppy Your main objective now is to bond with your puppy. Spend lots of time with your puppy. Make him feel at home. Pay him a lot of attention when he is quiet, fuss and praise him when he pees outside. Once he has settled in, there will be plenty of time to think about crate training and learning manners, but for now just enjoy his Labrador puppy loveliness, and that scrummy new puppy smell. It will be gone all too soon, replaced by a bouncing, boisterous, and joyful friend who all too often smells of pond water. What you are doing is establishing good habits, which will last a lifetime. What About Crate Training? A quality dog crate is an excellent source of help with potty-training. But a puppy should not be left inside a crate for longer than his immature bladder can hold its contents. For some puppies, this is not very long at all. Socialization is a big part of bringing home a new puppy. This is the process we take puppies through, to make sure they are comfortable with all aspects of living in human society. For instance, dogs need to be confident around things like vehicles and machines. They should be happy to meet people of all different shapes and sizes and to go boldly wherever people want to take them. A confident dog is not just a happy dog; he is a safe dog. Socializing also means taking your puppy out and about. Naturally, many worry about exposing a not-yet-fully vaccinated puppy to the risk of infection. Yes you can! If you use modern dog training methods, you can get going right after bringing home a new puppy! In the first week puppy training is based on a series of fun games. So that your puppy will be learning without even realising. The games you play should lay foundations for future good behavior, teaching your puppy not snatch, to say please, to focus on you, to love their crate, to wear a harness or collar and to run towards you rather than away from you. A lot of people worry about whether or not to take a puppy to classes, and some are unable to do so. But there is a great deal you can do at home by yourself. You can avoid this by getting off to a great start with recall training in the very first week. The video below will help you. And never chase after a puppy. Puppy recall training starts right after bringing home a new puppy. Build an association between the act of running towards you and the sound of the recall word or whistle. If you call the puppy and he does not come, you will have begun to teach him that the recall command is optional. Check out our puppy recall training video to give you an idea of how easy it is to build this a good association if you start off in the right way. You can find out more about building a great recall from the beginning in Total Recall. But for now, in these first few days at home together, make sure no one calls the puppy to them. When they want him, they can simply pick him up. If he runs away, all they need to do is run in the opposite direction and he will come chasing after them. For the first few days after bringing home a new puppy, focus on bonding and helping him to feel safe. Consider having your puppy next to your bed for the first few nights. This will comfort him while he is feeling homesick and missing his mom and playmates. Expect to get up in the night to take your puppy out to pee for at least the first couple of weeks. Set a reminder to avoid teaching your puppy to cry for your attention. During his daytime naps, dive into the feeding, potty training, and obedience training guides mentioned in this article, and head over to the forum for support from our other readers, many of whom have been where you are now, and come safely out the other side! If you want help choosing an adorable puppy name, make sure you take a look at this article too! Lab Puppy proof the house. Things like dangerous chemicals, solvents, cleaning solutions, paint and other dangerous substances need to be secured. As well you will need to look at cords hanging and things falling on the puppy if they accidentally pull something down. Stairs need to be gated off until your puppy is older and learns how to walk down them without trying to jump off. Purchase a quality dog food. It never ceases to amaze me how some people end up feeding a low quality food to their dog, or something experimental like a vegan food, or even feed them a so called raw diet and not balance their nutrition requirements. The single biggest thing you can do for your dog is feed them a proven diet with nutrients delivered in the proper ratios. A second thing to consider is where your food is made and how you can be notified if there is a recall. At the time of writing this there is a popular food under recall for toxic levels of vitamin D. There have been numerous cases of deaths related to this and yet the company claims they independently test their ingredients. The food we recommend is such because we have years and years of experience over 13 years with it using it ourselves and recommending it to those who adopt our puppies. We have actually had so few health issues with our puppies and aging adults eating this food that we have increased our warranty to 4 years and include all major organs. Bottom line, feed a high quality proven food from the day you bring your puppy home, not necessarily one with the most protein. We will provide you with feeding suggestions once you place your reservation for a puppy and a proven puppy food to feed them. Visit the pet store for the required equipment. You are going to need a large dog crate with a divider so in the beginning your puppy will have just enough room to sleep. Crate training is the best way to protect your puppy while making them safe when unsupervised. As your dog grows you can remove the divider so it has room to lay down and not touch the walls. We stock the most popular toys and cover all the different types you will need so that you can get them when you pick up your puppy. They come with explanations of how the different types are used to both stimulate, calm and play with your puppy, how to cycle them, teething, and more. A stainless steel water and food bowl is also another good choice. I would wait on getting a collar so that you can fit them properly. We have inexpensive training leashes that adjust to any size for you to purchase when you are here. Have a family meeting to establish expectations. Every human in the home will need to follow the same rules consistently so that your puppy understands what is expected of them. Schedule an appointment with a good Veterinarian. Not all Veterinarians are of equal experience. We have heard some pretty crazy stories, so we suggest you get some referrals of some long term relationships of people you trust for a Vet. You should take your puppy to the vet a couple of days after you get home so it has time to get use to its new surroundings before being taken somewhere. Prepare fore the Drive Home 1. Your puppy can last about 2 or 3 hours without a potty break. We normally feed your puppy early in the morning on the day of pick up so that it has time to go potty before the drive home. Our recommendation is to give your puppy some water every 3 hours and then let them have a pee. This could also go along with letting them play or explore outside a bit. When you stop, find an unused grassy space to potty on. Arriving at home with your puppy 1. First quickly bring them to the spot you want them to potty. This is the beginning of your dog being house trained. They will likely have to go right after you get out of the car. So when you stop, give them a drink in the area you want them to relieve themselves in. Wait until they go and then you can take them into the home. Treat your puppy like a puppy. It is breakable and will be a puppy for about a year. Things like playing with larger dogs and such should be carefully supervised. Constant supervision. Your new puppy needs to be constantly supervised until they can be trusted and you know that they understand the rules. Constant supervision means either you or someone watching them, they are in their crate the crate is the supervisor , or that they are in a section of the home baby-gated off or also an outside run with a kennel and a cement floor so they cannot dig under the fence yes they will dig. After a potty bring your puppy to the room with their crate. Introducing them to their crate perhaps with a few pieces of kibble in it will show them where their safe space is. This is also where they need to be comfortable enough to self-calm and fall asleep. If you have another dog, first introduce them outside on neutral territory. Bringing a new puppy and simply coming straight into the home could have one of three effects. The first being that both dogs might be ok with it. Second is that the older dog has an issue with a new strange animal in its territory. This would result in your older dog being defensive, maybe even protective or possibly anxious and scared and once this has happened it is out there. Undoing this type of trauma could take days or weeks. Relax and let them get to know each other and all will be good. After some get familiar time begin training your puppy without distractions using Positive Reinforcement training methods. We suggest that everyone participates in some training classes either in a group format or private. The important thing to understand is that you are training you to train your puppy. Your puppy will also lose any training it has done if it is not reinforced by everyone in the home. Other resources are 80 Puppy Training tips that you can learn as well as an excellent site with video called Puppy Trained Right. We have a discount code available for those who are taking home one of our puppies. This will allow them time to eliminate most of their food and urine and will give a better chance of sleeping the night without having to go potty. Prepare their crate in a quiet, dark spot. Make it a sleepy place, place a blanket over the top and down 3 sides to block draft and to make it den-like. Some mild exercise or training just before bed. Just like a human, you want them to be tired before bed. So for example if you let them sleep from 9 to 11 pm they may not need to go down at 11 to sleep. The last while before bed try to stimulate them mentally and physically so that they are ready to turn in. This can be training sessions, a walk, a play session or even fetch in the house. One final potty around 11 pm. After you prepare them for sleep take them out one more time and give them ample time to relieve themselves. Bring them back in, let them settle in the crate, put an item of clothing in there that smells like you for them to snuggle on. The quicker they learn the new pack and learn to settle in the crate the better and that happens by not reminding them of their old litter. If they smell their old litter they will whine for them to find them. Settling in their crate. Once your puppy goes down you will want to be teaching your puppy that the time in their crate is for sleep, they are safe in there, and that if they bark or whine they cannot summon you to save them. So, what if they really have to go? This is something you will have to figure out. It may be possible that they must go outside to relieve themselves, but, they may also just want you to hold or feed them. If they go, just put them back in their crate to settle and go back to sleep. You will know within reason that next time they are just lonely. This normally stops after about 2 or 3 days. Whoosh them out to their pee spot. Pick them up and carry them quickly to their pee spot. When they go reward them with praise and say the potty word that you use. Feed, and then woosh them out again to their pee spot. Puppies often need to poop right after they eat, or sometimes while they are eating. Some exercise, training and mental stimulation. After waking up and eating they will be ready for a walk and some training. Setting them up for their first full day in the home. Plan their day out so that there is a balance of play, training, napping, eating, and potty. In the beginning your puppy will need about 20 hours or so of sleep a day so be sure it is getting enough. If your puppy gets nippy they may be trying to tell you they are tired and want to be left alone in their crate. Every opportunity that your puppy presents in the form of nipping is a training opportunity to teach bite inhibition. Coming home to your puppy after work. Learning how to greet them. If you work full time it is important to understand that a young puppy cannot hold their bladders for more than 3 or 4 hours. If you work full time you will need someone to watch them or at least visit them once or twice during the shift to let them out, drink and play. When you arrive home this is the time to teach them manners. Most dogs will be excited and will jump on you to greet you. Be sure you teach them how you want them to greet people. We will teach a dog to sit in front of us before it gets any attention. No attention means no talking, no eye contact and no touching. Will they need to relieve themselves? If they have been in a crate you will likely need to let them go potty, a walk or some fetching would also be good at this time because they likely have some energy to expend. Training pre or post feeding? There are also some Labs who are not food motivated. So if your Lab is not responding well to training after they are fed, you may want to train them before eating so the hunger is on your side. Socialization with people other than your family, and animals other than those in the home. While socializing you want to expose them to many people while not overwhelming them. To start we recommend 1 new person each morning and one new place each night. After you can see that your puppy is not overwhelmed you may decide to increase the frequency of exposure to new places, animals and things. Prepare for night time routine. Get your new furball ready for bed time as outlined above. Setting your puppy up for success. Avoiding dog parks and strange dogs. Until your puppy is fully vaccinated around 14 weeks old they are vulnerable to other diseases by unknown dogs. By all means, if you know someone who has a dog and you can verify that their dog is up to date on all shots such as Parvo, Rabies, Leptospirosis, Kennel Cough, Distemper, Hepatitis, Corona and Para Influenza, 2. Get into a reputable training class or private training with a reputable trainer. Training classes are mainly to train you. Ask around in your area for a recommendation of a good trainer at a reasonable price. Gentle, regular exposure to everyone and everything. For example, while you are exposing them to people you will need to expose them to female babies, toddlers, pre teens, teenagers, young adult women, middle aged women and older women. You will need to include women with glasses, hats, soft voices, loud voices, etc…. Adjust their food as they grow and as their activity level increases or decreases. If for example your dog is much more active or much less active then the recommended feeding amount will not be correct. Instead use your eyes. You might have to adjust the food amounts up or down as your Labrador gets more or less activity. Positive Reinforcement training by everyone in the pack. When you get into your car and you to go somewhere, you tell your gps where you want to go. Dogs are the same way. Instead teach your dog what you want it to do. Instead of scolding, simply withdraw your attention. This is enough punishment. Then, get back to showing your dog what you want it to do. If your puppy is not eating or has a loose bowel movement. Not eating much is pretty common when a puppy goes to its new home, however if it stops drinking then that would be cause for an immediate vet visit. In a new home your puppy might not be comfortable for a couple of days and eating might be just grazing. This is ok as long as it is drinking and seems to be playful. Loose bowel movements in the beginning could be due to nerves or your puppy could also have a parasite. At this young age puppies put everything, and I mean everything into their mouths. It is quite common for puppies to get loose stool from a parasite. This can be addressed easily if you take a stool sample into your Vet for analysis. What is a puppy emergency that requires a visit to the vet? Our rules for an emergency trip to the vet are: Uncontrollable bleeding, puppy not breathing properly, broken bone, puppy is not drinking and appears lethargic. If any of these present themselves you may want to consider getting help right away. Other things can normally wait until the next morning to be addressed because they are not critical. Depending on where you live however you may have a vet that is open 24 hours and even on the weekends. So this is a start for you to think about when you take a Labrador Puppy home. Information contained on this page is provided by an independent third-party content provider. Frankly and this Site make no warranties or representations in connection therewith. If you are affiliated with this page and would like it removed please contact pressreleases franklymedia. Be among the first to get breaking news, weather, and general news updates from News 9 delivered right to your inbox! Morning Headlines.

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male puppy german shepherd - Phantom Abstract The most common Labradoodle colors include black, cream, and gold. The three rarest colors for this breed include phantom, abstract, and red. A rare Phantom Labradoodle coat. Photo courtesy of Labradoodles by Cucciolini in Ontario. Chocolate Labradoodles are common in many households. Their color can be even throughout their coat, even as they age, or they may have a combination of light and dark hues mixed. Most chocolate Labradoodles may appear to be almost black at birth but fade to a deep chocolate brown. Some of its baby hair will fall out, and the new coat will grow in, having a somewhat different hue. Older dogs will tend to lighten in color due to aging, usually around age five and up. Poodle puppies are notorious for clearing their color as they grow. So no matter which color a poodle is at birth, typically, you will not know the final hue until the dog has reached about two years of age. Color Clearing Since Labradoodles contain these clearing elements from their parents, you can expect your beloved pet to have a coat color that will lighten until around two years or so. Once your pup turns three, its color should be stable and should not change much more, if at all. Once your pet reaches five years old or more, you may notice a bit of lighter coloring around the face, chin, or other areas. This lightening of the color is typical for Labradoodles. A cute Labradoodle takes a sleep on the couch Environmental Factors When you have a chocolate Labradoodle, you may notice that their coat will change color at different times of the year. This altering can be from environmental factors that affect the hair, causing it to fade or change color. Some dogs will have lighter hair in the hot summer months from being outdoors with harsh UV rays. In addition, if your Labradoodle swims in water that uses chemical treatments, like swimming pools, these additives can also affect the hair color. Some owners will use pet sunscreen to help protect their four-legged friends while out in the hot sun. However, it is imperative that you use unique formulas made for animals that do not contain harsh chemicals that could harm your dog. These products can be an excellent tool for helping your pet stay clean and look great. The Infamous Labradoodle Coat One of the reasons why this cross-breed is so popular is their soft, luscious coat of hair. In addition, some pet owners with allergies find that Labradoodles are terrific companions that they can own without issues. There are three distinct coat types which you will find with Labradoodles. These options include: Wool Fleece Straight Hair This Apricot Mini Labradoodle is looking up at the camera, because he thinks he might get a treat he did. This coat is the least-shedding type of the three and will produce virtually no animal dander. Wool coats will need a regular grooming routine to avoid matting since it can be a common problem. Fleece The fleece coat on a Labradoodle will look more wavy than curly. They may appear shaggy with their long hair but are a terrific variable between curly and straight hair. Fleece coats still require regular grooming, but they can cause some problems for allergy sufferers with the dander they produce. Straight Hair On the other end of the spectrum is the straight hair coat. Labradoodles with straight hair get this characteristic from the Labrador Retriever parent rather than the Poodle side. Often, this straight coat looks scruffy, especially if the hair grows out too long. The coat is easy to maintain, but it can shed almost as much as another dog breed, making it not ideal for pet owners with allergies. Are Chocolate Labradoodles Expensive? Since chocolate Labradoodles are a standard color of this breed, will they still be expensive? Typically, rare colors will cost more, so your chocolate Labradoodle may fall on the lower end of this pricing scale. However, how you take care of its coat will depend on the hair type since there will be varying methods for wool, fleece, and straight hair dogs. If you are unsure of how to groom your chocolate Labradoodle, talk to your local pet groomer. Often, pet owners prefer to take their beloved dog in for complete grooming rather than attempt this process at home on their own. For pet owners who want to groom their Labradoodle at home, there are many terrific resources online, including Youtube videos , to choose from that will take you through each step. With proper grooming habits, you can keep your chocolate Labradoodle from getting matted or suffering from skin conditions. Chocolate Labradoodles are a terrific breed to have as a pet. This color is relatively easy to find at a breeder and makes a great companion for any home. Remember that it will lose some color until age two, but it should remain stable after then. You can expect your brown four-legged friend to have the same brown color as they age, as long as you avoid harsh grooming products and harmful UV rays. My wife and I love playing with our active miniature Labradoodle Max. We want all Oodle puppies to be healthy and happy, have lots of fun and be part of the family. Load More. Finding a healthy black Labradoodle puppy. A lot comes into play when breeders attempt to create a specifically black Labradoodle. That is because both the purebred Labrador retriever and the purebred poodle come in three different color varieties. Genetics are difficult to control, and sometimes it takes a few generations for breeders to get the desired color of a Labradoodle right. Especially when working with a first generation F1 black Labradoodle. Where Do They Come From? The Labradoodle craze is believed to have begun in Australia. Enthusiastic breeders went on a mission to create an intelligent, friendly and responsive service dog that had all the desirable traits of the Poodle and the Lab. Still, because the Labradoodle is a newer generation crossbreed, there is a lot of speculation regarding the majority of his roots. The Labrador is an ancient breed who hails from Newfoundland, Canada. The Standard Poodle is of German descent and is believed to be over years old. Both breeds were used as waterdogs for fishing and duck hunting, and were renowned for their intelligence and retrieving abilities. Defining Characteristics of the Black Labradoodle Just about the only thing you can guarantee about what your black Labradoodle will look like will be his color. This is because he is a crossbreed. For that reason, his coat texture, size, weight and more will be left up to chance. Despite having similar temperamental traits, the poodle and the Labrador are very different looking dogs. Both the Labrador and the poodle come in three color varieties. The Lab, for example, comes in chocolate, black and yellow, while the poodle comes in black, brown and apricot. Both breeds are athletically built water dogs, however. So a prospective black Labradoodle owner can expect this crossbreed to be similarly built, with a long tail, floppy ears, and a sweet, expressive face. How Big Is a Black Labradoodle? An adult Labradoodle size is going to depend on several factors. Because he is a crossbreed, your Labradoodle full grown will vary in size. This will be based not only on which genetic traits he inherits from his purebred parents, but also how big each parent breed is. On average, the black Standard Labradoodle is around 15 to .Black Labradoodle Grooming and General Care While the Poodle is considered to be a hypoallergenic dog who hardly sheds and produces very little allergy-inducing dander in his coat, the Labrador sheds heavier twice a year during shedding season. For this reason, grooming maintenance could vary when it comes to your black Labradoodle mix. They might also shed. On the other hand, if the black Labradoodle has a coat more like his Poodle parent, his fur could be prone to matting and will need brushing a bit more frequently. However, your black Labradoodle will need an occasional bath every few weeks. He will also need his nails trimmed regularly to keep them from breaking and his ears cleaned to keep them from developing infection due to waxy build up. But these are claims based mostly on biased and superstitions, with little to no evidence supporting them. Truth be told, a black Labradoodle is still just a Labradoodle. And he will carry whichever temperamental traits he inherits from his purebred parents. As previously mentioned, the Labrador and the poodle have very similar temperamental traits. They are both family-oriented breeds who do well with children and are incredibly intelligent. However, they are also both highly energetic and athletic. For this reason, a black Labradoodle will more likely than not require a lot of time and patience when it comes to training and exercise. The black Labradoodle is the crossbreed offspring of two very intelligent and active breeds. He could therefore be prone to boredom and becoming destructive if left to his own devices without doggy jobs or activates. For this reason, we recommend early socialization and obedience training beginning in puppyhood. This will help to ensure the black Labradoodle is a well-adjusted and happy dog. Can You Show a Black Labradoodle? The black Labradoodle makes an excellent family pet and service animal when properly trained and socialized. However, he is a newer generation crossbreed and is still not officially recognized by official clubs and organizations, like the American Kennel Club. For those interested in show dogs, purebreds are the best and safest bet. Still, there are purebred standards that dogs used for show require. This means their black Labradoodle offspring is likely going to be similar. A dog with smarts and energy will require a lot of exercise. Anyone considering getting a black Labradoodle crossbreed should prepare to spend an adequate amount of time every day providing this dog with what he needs to be happy and healthy. But what kind of exercise do they require? Daily walks, jogs, hikes and swimming can all serve as excellent exercise outlets. Your black Labradoodle will also enjoy games of fetch, chase, and Frisbee in a large, fenced-in backyard. Keep in mind that the Labradoodle is the crossbreed offspring of two dogs who were bred for hunting. Make sure that you spend plenty of time working on your recall. Now, what about training? The Labrador and the Poodle are both very smart breeds, but with intelligence comes independent thinking. For the most part, the Lab and the Poodle are eager to please and make loyal, hard-working students. So long as the training sessions are kept fun, positive and rewarding for them. This means that your Labradoodle should be simple to train. Health and Lifespan A Labrador Poodle mix is likely to live into their teens. Provided the dog is well treated and that both parents have been fully health tested. They usually combine a Standard Poodle with a Lab, and have a dark wavy coat. Most chocolate Labradoodles weigh around 50 — 65 lbs. You can expect them to have the same temperament as other colors of Labradoodle. Could a chocolate Labradoodle dog be the right choice for your family? Keep reading. What is a Chocolate Labradoodle? Chocolate Labradoodles are just like any other type of Labradoodle. Except for the fact that they sport a luxurious dark brown coat. These dogs can be the standard or miniature in size. Standard Labradoodles weighs up to 65 lbs. Whereas the miniature version usually only weighs around 20 lbs. Chocolate Labradoodles are popular dogs for families. Particularly those with older children. Best Environment for Them This breed prefers an active environment so they can run about and socialize with others often. But they can also be quite boisterous. So, they may not be suitable for families with pets or very small children. The main difference is indeed the coat color of the coat. But, some evidence suggests the chocolate color might be linked to specific personality traits too. But otherwise, chocolate Labradoodles are just like any other Labradoodle. For example, the Goldendoodle is a Golden Retriever-Poodle mix with similar traits to the Labradoodle. With obvious differences in appearance, of course. Typical characteristics of the Labrador Retriever Labrador Retrievers are are water dogs native to Newfoundland, Canada. They stand up to .Labradors are prized for their companionship and outgoing nature. They love to swim and run, and make excellent service dogs, too. These agile natural athletes have a waterproof coat that helps them excel at hunting and retrieving waterfowl. Labrador Retriever Coat Colors Although there are many types of Labrador Retrievers, people generally break them down into types by color. The three main coat colors for Labrador Retrievers are black and, of course, chocolate. Poodle Characteristics Poodles, on the other hand, have fluffy coats that can be multicolored, solid, or bi-colored. Chocolate brown is a popular coat color in Poodles, too. Genetics Behind the Labradoodle Two pairs of genes that determine the basic coat colors in dogs like Labrador Retrievers, Poodles, and of course, Labradoodles. While chocolate is not as genetically common as black, dogs of many colors can carry the genetic instructions for chocolate fur. And you might be surprised to hear that even two black dogs, can create chocolate Labradoodle puppies! Or a black dog and a yellow dog. Chocolate Labradoodle Temperament Chocolate Labradoodles behave just like any other kind of Labradoodles. But with one small exception. Does Color Matter? The chocolate coat color in Labs might be correlated to higher excitability. At least, one study published in the journal Applied Animal Behavior Science seems to provide some evidence of this. Scientists discovered a greater tendency to become agitated when ignored. And in addition, lower trainability but also lower fear of noise. These trends are based on owner-observed differences between Labrador colors. Labradoodle Temperament Of course, the temperament of the individual Labrador parent will be a large influence. Chocolate Labradoodles are usually also quite friendly, playful, and energetic. Although they can be somewhat reserved around strangers. This particular trait is common in Poodles. But it can be dampened down by regular socialization. Labradoodles are strong and active. They are often chosen for hunting and farm work as well as for public service. In addition, Labradoodles make excellent seeing-eye dogs, guide dogs, and other types of service dogs. Training Requirements of the Labradoodle Labradoodles are easy to train and they respond best to positive reinforcement training. Plus, Labradoodles require frequent interaction and positive reinforcement training. This is something recommended for all breeds. They also benefit from lots of activity. This can help reduce behaviors like jumping around small children and other guests. Chocolate Labradoodle Health There is little detailed evidence to suggest the chocolate color has any link to overall health. But, a limited amount of research shows that chocolate Labrador Retrievers are becoming less healthy as a breed. And therefore, dying much younger sooner than black or yellow Labradors. Genes The gene that creates a chocolate coat is recessive. So, breeders that want to guarantee a high proportion of chocolate-colored puppies in their litters must mate two chocolate-colored Labs. As a result, the gene pool is much narrower and the risk of inheriting health conditions is higher. This includes problems like obesity, ear infections, and skin problems As a result, it is possible that your chocolate Labradoodle may suffer from the same health conditions as its Labrador parent. Inherited Health Conditions Ultimately, any health issues your dog inherits will depend on the genetics of the parents. And how purebred the parents are. If your dog was bred from a purebred Labrador and a purebred Poodle, it can be tough to determine what kind of health problems your dog might have. After breeding further generations of chocolate Labradoodles together, it may be easier to determine which health conditions are genetic. Health Testing Always select a breeder who has tested the chocolate Labradoodles for known genetic health problems. According to the Canine Health Information Center, you may want to test your chocolate Labradoodle for problems such as: hip and elbow dysplasia. Contact Us Labradoodle Colors Australian Labradoodle coat colors colours come in a wide variety of options. Below is a listing of the different coat colors, coloring descriptions and what to expect with their coats throughout their lifetime. Caramel Caramel colored dogs have liver noses brown. Their range of coat color can vary between light yellow to almost red in hue. The difference in a caramel dog and a chalk, cream, apricot and red dog is their nose color. Chocolate True chocolates are brown in color. Many chocolates do fade over time. Cream This color comes in a wide variety of shades but it should be creamy in appearance. The nose pigment is black. The pigment for the nose is black. Parchment This color is a creamy beige chocolate color. It has been described as a cup of coffee with a generous addition of milk. These dogs are born milk chocolate and will develop their parchment coloring over time. The nose pigment is rose. Red True reds should be rich and dark in color and the roots should be no lighter. Sadly, this coat color tends to fade over time. The nose color is to be black. This color develops over the first years. Nose pigment should be rose. Chalk This color is a white looking color. However, if you were to compare it to a true white, it would appear to be more chalk-white in color. Nose pigment is black. Black Black Labradoodles should be solid in color with no sprinklings of other colors throughout the coat. Their pigment color should be black. Silver These pups would start out black and their silver coloring develops over the first few years of their lives. The color range can be anywhere from a light pewter to a dark charcoal. Silver dogs need to have black pigmentation. The blue coat will develop over the first few years. The color should be solid once they are full grown. It should be a dark-medium smoky blue. Lavender This color has a smoky lavender chocolate coloring that almost gives off a pink to lilac appearance. These pups are born chocolate and will come into their beautiful lavender coats over the first few years. Their pigmentation should be rose in color. Parti These dogs need to be at least fifty percent white, with spots or patches of any other above solid color. Full or partial saddles are acceptable, but are not preferred. Ticking in the white of the coat is acceptable but not preferred. The nose pigment needs to match the solid color. Any combination of acceptable colors is allowed. Nose pigment should follow requirements listed above based on the solid base color. Information and photos republished with permission from Australian Labradoodle Association Save Ready for your puppy? Use tab to navigate through the menu items. This gene determines how soft the coat will be. Furnishings are facial hair. This trait test is a breeder's best indication for shedding. Hair, Fleece or Wool? Labradoodles can have coats that shed a lot, shed a little, and that do not shed at all. There are differences you should be aware of to help you determine which coat would be better suited for you and your family. It can be difficult for a breeder to predict coat-types for first and second generation F1 or F1b labradoodles. Some pups are wavy when born and have produced very fleece type coats when they got older. Some pups are straighter haired when born and end up with a beautiful fluffy non shedding coat. Then there are some pups that appear like they have a wavy coat, but end up shedding, or a pup that looks wavy but ends up curly as an adult. The only way to know for sure what coat you are getting from an F1b litter, is to have the coats DNA tested. Doodle Sweethearts includes this in their breeding program using Paw Print Genetics! The fleece coat is low to non shedding, depending on 1 or 2 furnishings; tends to look shaggier than wool and it hangs in silky, light, loose locks which flow and ripple when the dog moves. Some feel this is the ultimate labradoodle coat or teddy bear coat. Puppy coat is easy to care for, but during transition to the adult coat, it can become very high maintenance due to matting. The final adult coat may or may not be easy care after puppy transition has been completed. Mostly non-shedding, but some have been known to shed minimally. Should be fairly allergy friendly Should be no doggie odour. Typically seen in F1B labradoodles or second generation and multigen lines. There are different types of fleece coats as well, some fine or thick, some wavy, curly or straight. As a puppy this sometimes can be hard to differentiate between a fleece coat or a wool as an adult, but with DNA coat testing, this can be determined. Fleece and wool coats can be kept short or long depending on your lifestyle but generally need to be clipped times a year every wks Weekly brushing is required to clear any mattes Curly Soft Wool Coat What is a Curly Soft Wool Coat? Wool is generally non shedding; it is denser and thicker, curlier and soft.Fleece and wool coats can be kept short or long depending on your lifestyle but generally need to be clipped times a year every wks Weekly brushing is required to clear any mattes Unlike some other breeds, dogs with fleece and wool coats shed very little dander skin cells a common cause of allergies in humans which makes them excellent for households with allergies. Proudly created with Wix. It was a tragic and unexpected passing of our sweet 6 year old dog. In his absence we quickly started considering getting another dog. Enter the labradoodle puppy! However, I acquired Emmett when I was a single woman. Married to an avid hunter, it was time to talk about a breed for both of us. My partner was very excited about the prospect of having a hunting dog; although poodles are born water dogs, he was interested in something a little different. Therefore we made an excellent compromise and agreed to learn more about the labradoodle breed. Why We Chose a Labradoodle After having a standard poodle for more than six years, I must admit that I fell in love with the non-shedding coat of a poodle breed. That along with toys would be too much! All of my previous dogs have had shedding coats, so I know the experience! But at this kid-centered time in my life, hair versus fur is a welcome change! The second reason why we chose a labradoodle puppy is because of their amazing temperament. After seeking out a reputable breeder, meeting the mom dam and the identical siblings, we quickly realized that the labradoodle puppy was energetic, smart, and very trainable. These were all traits which we were seeking in our next family dog. The final reason we chose a labradoodle puppy is because of their water-loving nature. As an avid bird hunter, my partner was very excited to train a dog to retrieve waterfowl; our standard poodle surprisingly was water-phobic. Finding a Reputable Breeder When we ultimately decided that the labradoodle puppy was top on our list, we set out to find a reputable breeder in our region. We were open to traveling within a 12 hour radius to find the best dog for our family. We spoke with several different breeders, all of whom had slightly different dogs to offer. Some had higher poodle percentage while others had higher lab percentage; these distinctions impact their coat, temperament and appearance. Some breeders were very friendly and casual while others were very business-like. They answered all of our questions, were very inviting, and seemed passionate and knowledgable about the breed. In fact they had been breeding labradoodle puppies for years, with the same sire and dam for two different litters. We were invited to meet the mom and one of her one-year old babies at our first convenience. Once we met the breeder and the dam and daughter along with her ten new puppies , we set out to learn more about the stud dog. Though some breeders are less transparent about these details, this level of open communication helped us feel more confident in our selection. After all, this labradoodle puppy was a financial investment for us — and a big family decision. Selecting the Best Labradoodle Puppy We visited the puppies on two separate occasions then selected our actual puppy on our third visit. As the first family to put down a deposit on a dog, we literally had the pick of the litter. We spent nearly an hour and a half on our final visit interacting with the dogs, watching them closely, and weighing out the pros and cons of what we were observing. The breeder was with us throughout this visit but that was okay. My partner and I spoke openly and honestly about what we were seeing and what we thought of each puppy. Ultimately we chose a dog that displayed traits favorable to us; we are the parents of two small children. We inspected each labradoodle puppy from nose to tail. Many of the dogs seemed very healthy in size and temperament so it was a difficult decision to say the least! Not everyone will agree with us, but we decided to bring our children when we made our final decision. We were very curious to see if there were any alarming behaviors from the labradoodle puppy before we brought her home. The puppy we chose was not overly mouthy, but when she got annoyed kiddo pulled on ears, etc. This was a trait we were specifically looking for — communicative but in a gentle way. Caring for That Famous Coat No one can deny that one of the primary reasons people love that labradoodle puppy is because of that amazing coat! I am a huge lover of the hypoallergenic, non-shedding coat. I first fell in love with owning a standard poodle. A labradoodle needs grooming on a regular basis; neglecting this for them is unfair and unhealthy for them. Is this something I want to manage? I started off grooming my own standard poodle thanks to some instruction I got from my trainer. Honestly my hat is off to dog groomers! It is definitely a skill and an art. Invest in a great set of pet grooming clippers and an excellent dog grooming book. But please — study before you do anything! We decided to find a great groomer in our community and have gone back to them religiously for years. This price includes a head-to-toe bath as well as a trim of her body and face hair. The groomer also cleans her ears — the hair grows in there, too! We live in a rural setting with lots of dirt, plant life and sticks. The dog gets dirty and plays outside often! This cut is perfect for her lifestyle and grows out fairly evenly. Training our Labradoodle Puppy The first step in training a labradoodle puppy especially on leash is to choose the right collar. We learned the hard way that this poodle-curly-hair coat requires a special collar. The dog has been unbelievably easy to train. She has such a willingness to please us and seems to be a step ahead of us at all times. Training has been a breeze; well, as much as training any puppy can be easy! At nearly six months old, she walks well on leash we use a training collar on walks under the guidance of my trusted dog trainer and is mastering the art of heel, sit and stay. My partner works with her daily on retrieval skills in preparation for her to be a hunting dog ; this is perhaps her favorite part of the day. She works hard each day — and plays hard each day. The perfect balance! I firmly believe that a tired dog is a happy dog. But it seemed as though our previous male dogs were much easier to housebreak than this one. How She Plays The labradoodle puppy is a fun-loving dog if ever I have met one! This dog absolutely loves to retrieve. They are so obsessed with retrieving something, anything, that they are spun out and driven at all times. Not so with this dog. She absolutely loves to retrieve and is really good at it. Super fast and super accurate in her run and retrieval we use these sporting dummies during work time. We like to be outside and not have a dog obsessively dropping balls at our feet. As with any puppy, she is mildly mouthy when she plays. Even when we go on training walks, if I brush up on her ear she will turn her head up and use her mouth to explore what caused the sensation. They can be mouthy! Therefore we spend a lot of time teaching her not to use her mouth and how the kids can discourage the behavior so that she will eventually grow out of it. They always do! In fact, how the children and the dog would mix was our top concern when selecting our next breed. The labradoodle puppy has not disappointed us! Just as we train the puppy on what not to do to people, we teach the kids how to discourage bad puppy behavior. They are growing their relationship and we empower our kids namely the oldest to be a commanding presence with the dog. The puppy does occasionally causes the kids to shed a tear or two. It always happens when she moves while a little too close to the kids and accidentally knocks them over. All puppies remind me of the two-man horse costumes in a parade — the front half has no idea what the back half is doing! Crashes happen and we move on; I know the puppy will grow out of this clumsiness as she grows into her body. Labradoodle Puppy Diet Our family had such great luck with the Diamond Naturals brand dog food with multiple dogs that we continue to feed it to our labradoodle puppy. We use the Large Breed Puppy Formula and have been very happy with it; her coat is so shiny and soft especially after a groom and she is growing at a healthy rate, according to our veterinarian. I will say — this is one thirsty dog! Of course all dogs need water but this one can go through gallons in a day. We keep it fresh and available to her all the time; our dog is fed 2x daily as directed by our veterinarian. I thought no breed would come close to the standard poodle. However we have found everything we loved about the standard poodle and more! We find this breed to be very smart and a gentle, loving family dog — great with little kids, with huge potential as a hunting working dog. What size do you have? Please share a comment below with your fellow dog lovers so we can continue to celebrate this wonderful, fun-loving breed! Dark Chocolate Labradoodle Dark Chocolate Labradoodle via pearlygirl Dark Chocolate Labradoodles feature a rich, dark brown coat that sometimes so dark that appears to be black unless under sunlight. Dark Chocolate Labradoodles have dark brown noses and dark brown or black eyes. These locations include the chin, throat, chest, legs, beneath their tail, above their eyes or on the sides of their muzzle. Phantom Chocolate Labradoodles are different from Chocolate Parti Labradoodle as Parti Labradoodles can have patches anywhere on their body and their base color is white instead of brown. Specifically, Chocolate Merle Labradoodles feature a chocolate, copper, beige and white coat in a mottled pattern. Most of their coat is a beige-grey and they feature chocolate, white and copper patches throughout it. Chocolate Merle Labradoodles have light or dark brown noses. In most cases they have light brown eyes however they can sometimes have blue or greenish eyes. Chocolate Labradoodle via lizzee. Wavy and curly coats are the most common while straight or flat coats are seen in Labradoodle generations that have a higher percentage of Labrador Retriever genes than Poodle genes. Wavy Coat Wavy coats are very common for Chocolate Labradoodles. Their coats are quite light, loose and shaggy looking and usually ripple when they move. Wavy hair is classified as a fleece type coat. Curly Coat Another common coat type for Chocolate Labradoodles is a curly coat. These coats are much denser and thicker than wavy coats and more closely resemble the coat of a Poodle. Curly hair Chocolate Labradoodles are usually more hypoallergenic than other coat types as they shed less and therefore release less dander into their immediate environment. Curly hair is classified as a wool type coat. There can be variation in what straight coats look like for Labradoodles. Chocolate Labradoodles with straight hair can feature: Medium long fur that grows consistently over the face and body Scruffy fur with tufts of hair sprouting out randomly over the body Straight tufts of hair with a short wavy undercoat Feathering along the tail, legs and face Slick and glossy coat.

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male puppy german shepherd - The first step helps you determine why your GSD is barking and then address the underlying issue rather than reprimand the behavior. Top reasons your dog might bark at unknown people might include: Trying to greet the person but having poor greeting manners. Showing territorial behaviors, like protecting their home or yard. Seeing strangers as potential threats. So, they often bark when they notice strangers near their home or yard to protect and alert. They warn their families to threats by barking at people, even when they are not near their home or close to their yard — yet your dog hears them. Your dog will still remain watchful and aware of dangers, even if you discourage excessive barking. The goal is to help them understand the difference between non-threatening objects and threatening objects. If you think your GSD is becoming aggressive, then read up on deterring aggressiveness in your German Shepherd. Harsh punishment—such as hitting, kicking, or using shock—increases aggressiveness in some situations. Other times, owners may use a shock anti-bark collar as a method of punishment for barking. Using painful anti-bark collars and muzzles should be a last resort. Try more positive methods first before adding in negative punishment. Put the treat right up to their nose and let them smell it. Praise him and give him the treat. Repeat this procedure regularly over a period of several days until your dog starts understanding what the command means. Gradually extend the waiting period to five seconds, then 10 seconds, then 20 seconds and then 30 seconds and longer. Finally, work up to the minute mark for the waiting time until the reward. If your German Shepherd barks at strangers when he is outside the house, for example, during walks, then begin a desensitization program. This is a way to find their threshold when they start barking and to work on decreasing the distance to the stimulus the stranger they bark at. Use treats that are soft, like cheese, tiny pieces of fresh-cooked chicken, or even homemade dog training fudge. Reserve these treats only for outside training times, which makes them more high value to your GSD. Be on the lookout for: a stiff body hair standing erect on the back and shoulders attentive staring at the stranger or nuisance object When you see your dog showing these signs, move away from the stimulus stranger. Hold the treat in front of their nose so they can smell and see the treat. As he looks at the treat and walks past or away from the stranger, give him the treat before he has time to bark. You are looking to get their attention away from the distraction. Check out the following for the best German Shepherd training commands for the ultimate in behavior modification. Remember that learning a new behavior takes time, especially a self-rewarding behavior like barking. This means your dog may take weeks and weeks of training to curb its desire to bark at strangers. Keep rewarding them with pea-size pieces of soft treats when outdoors and when they look at you and sit or performs a command you ask , instead of barking. Territorial and alarm barking arise when your dog sees or hears something that excites them. This is why your German Shepherd barks at the living room window or along the fence as strangers walk by. The fastest method to stop barking at the window or in the yard is to control their environment. In your yard, install privacy fencing or place reed fencing to fill in the gaps in the fence and cut off views to adjoining yards or activity in the street. Indoors, leave the curtains or blinds closed. Keep your dog away from the areas where strangers walk past, like your front door and rooms near the street or sidewalk. If your dog barks at strange noises, then install a white noise machine to help blur the background sounds that cause them to bark. Use this guide to exercise your German Shepherd and meet their physical needs to reduce unwanted behavior. Changing a self-rewarding behavior like barking at strangers can take weeks or months of diligent practice. Many forward-thinking German Shepherd owners, like yourself, who want to teach their dogs to listen to them and avoid unwanted behaviors with positive training did so by joining an online training program that uses scientifically-backed protocols found in the online Brain Training for Dogs program. Imagine learning how to control your German Shepherd with kindness, compassion, and science. The step-by-step obedience videos help teach your dog to listen to you and, with time and training, to listen to your quiet command and stop them from barking at strangers. Take a moment to look over the online training program and learn how to use brain training for better behavior. You and your dog deserve a break from their barking to have some fun! She has a Bachelor of Science degree, with Honors, and has been training dogs for over a decade. Related Posts. German Shepherds can be protective over their house and their family, so they want us to know when there is someone nearby that is a stranger. Barking because the doorbell rang Another common reason why dogs go crazy barking is because the doorbell rang. Dogs have learnt to associate the doorbell sound with someone sometimes a stranger being at the door. Thus, when the doorbell rings they immediately start barking to let us know someone is at our place. Funny story about my German Shepherd and the doorbell. One time we were taking a road trip to visit my mother, and there was a commercial on the radio that had a doorbell ringing. Allie immediately went to barking! Barking in excitement Another common reason dogs bark is because they are excited. This is why when their favorite person or doggy friend comes over, they go to barking like crazy because they know playtime is coming. Barking due to boredom German Shepherds can also bark because they are bored. That could include barking at everything they see outside or just barking to try and get you to notice them. A tired dog is a quiet dog! Barking to gain your attention Another reason German Shepherds bark is to gain our owners attention. Barking because they sense a threat GSDs will also bark if they sense something or someone that is threating. Dogs also have a good sense of judgment for bad situations and people with bad intentions, so sometimes they bark at times when you may not sure why because they sensed a threat from someone or something. Barking to get you to play or go outside German Shepherds are playful dogs. How to stop your German Shepherd from barking too much? One of the best ways to teach your dog how to control their barking is actually to train them how to speak on command. Once they have learned how to speak on command, you can also teach them the quiet command which will get them to stop barking on command. Check out my article on teaching your dog to speak and quiet to learn more. How to tell if your German Shepherd is barking aggressively? You can usually tell if your German Shepherd is barking aggressively, by the tone of their bark, their body language and the situation. The tone of an aggressive bark will typically be lower in key and your GSD will be more intently focused on the target they are barking at. Additionally, their body language will be stiff, the hair may stand up on their back scruff and they may even growl or show their teeth. Sometimes you can also tell if your GSD is a barking aggressively by the situation. Check out my article discussing whether German Shepherds are aggressive , you may be surprised to learn that aggression is often misinterpreted. Final Thoughts German Shepherds being a vocal breed can definitely bark more than other less vocal dog breeds. However, it is important to remember that barking, like whining , growling , and howling is just one of the ways German Shepherds communicate with the outside world. Depending on your living situation having a chatty dog breed is definitely one of the things you should consider before getting a German Shepherd. Also, remember that good training is the best way to quell barking that becomes too excessive. Does your German Shepherd bark a lot? Let me know in the comments!