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Our 'Puppy Quickstart Program' makes bringing a new puppy into your home easier! Do you want a german shepherd puppy.We offer shipping to select states and countries around the world for these trained puppies. Please note: availability for this year is extremely limited. The answer all depends. .From weeks your puppy is in its first fear stage, which is critical for expose to scenarios they will encounter in their future adult life. During this stage, puppies should be exposed to new people and other healthy dogs, as well as differing terrain and environment. These experiences provide the foundation for the adult dog they will eventually become, but first it's important for them to become a trained puppy. It is vital to keep all activities and real-world exposure extremely positive, safe and monitored as you train your puppy. This time period is critical for their future temperament and personality. If you work a normal job, putting the necessary hours into training your puppy during it's first month at home ages weeks may not be entirely possible. And leaving your young un-crate trained puppy alone in his or her crate for an entire day is sure to have detrimental affects down the road. Training a German Shepherd puppy is hard enough. When you leave the pup in their crate all day, this "ball of energy" becomes even harder to train and house-break. Introducing, the Puppy Quickstart program.The long-requested "trained puppy program" is finally here at Hayes Haus. Here's how it works: From ages weeks of your puppy's life, he or she will remain at Hayes Haus and partake in an extremely regimented training program. During this program, your new puppy will be monitored round-the-clock to ensure proper training and development, which includes but is not limited to socialization with strangers including well-behaved children as well as safe cats and dogs. In order for your puppy to be obey you around other pets, it's important to begin training them at an early age to do so. What goes into a "Trained Puppy Program"? On any particular day at Hayes Haus, your puppy will be going through any number of proven-safe scenarios for puppies. We take short rides in the car to some of our neighborhood parks and trails to use some of the natural obstacles; we teach puppies to pleasantly accept grooming and expose them to bathing; we instill good habits such as keeping your paws on the floor and eliminating on leash; we also use puppy games to teach important life commands. Here's a more in-depth breakdown for you: Training begins at 3 weeks of age, teaching the puppy to make eye contact The puppies are monitored around the clock and follow a very regimented schedule will send exact training schedule to the email address you enter above Socialization exercises are conducted daily All trained german shepherd puppies are available for pickup at 14 weeks of age. At this time, your puppy will know his or her name and be used to the schedule you provide us, which helps with easier integration into your home. When your puppy comes home, they'll be crate-trained, and have the groundwork extensive exposure to training for the following commands: Sit. Imagine you could come home to a lovable, dedicated, companion for life! If you knew what to look for when buying a German Shepherd puppy, you could find your next best friend. Before you buy your new best friend, read this information so you know what to look for in buying a healthy, quality German Shepherd puppy. I group them into major categories. Will you show him in conformation? Do you want to work with him in Schutzhund or herding? Or do you want a confident and alert companion? Know exactly what you want from your puppy. These dogs are the least costly since they have a trait that prevents them from winning in conformation competitions. These flaws rarely matter to most pet owners. And many minor faults like flat withers or slightly smaller offset ears will probably go unnoticed by most owners. The vast majority of GSDs are family pets. These dogs make great pets as long as they have sound temperaments! They breed some dogs for certain traits that are highly desirable but considered a fault. For example, long-coat or plush-coat GSDs. Show-quality dogs have good temperament and health. You usually buy them for their breed standard qualities that make them able to compete in confirmation or show events. A show-quality dog may cost significantly more if they have the traits desirable to win at a show. This group comes from Championship show lines with a long history of winning. If you plan on showing your Shepherd this is the quality you want. Beware of any breeder who claims they only raise competition-quality dogs. Even the best breeders produce many pet-quality dogs and if a breeder says they only breed perfect dogs, this is a red flag to not buy from them. The GSD is a herding breed, and the working-quality dogs excel at working trials such as scent competitions and Schutzhund. Other work includes climbing and jumping competitions or searching and tracking. They need mental stimulation to keep them occupied and take a lot of time to handle properly. These dogs are better with experienced handlers since you use them for high drive working and competition. They require hours and years of training and preparation for you to have total control during competition. We base this decision on preference. With the correct upbringing and training, both sexes are loyal companions and good with children. They may grow into more dominant dogs, so a confident handler is more desirable. Males may hike their back legs to mark their territory. This can occur on any object — chairs, walls, couches or even your leg. I suggest an extra bout of socialization during this stage, especially with other well-behaved dogs. So they may be better for the first-time owner. Unspayed females come into season every 6 months, so they must receive monitoring and watch to avoid unwanted pregnancies. Their season time can vary from as little as every 4 months to every 9 months. They can attract males to your property and on walks that will harass them if not spayed. Certain breeders and organizations will deal only in a certain coat length and color. The standard coat length is a short coat with double layers. Guard hairs on the top cover a softer underlayer of hair that provides warmth and protection. But there are many coat lengths available depending on your liking. Look online at the different GSD coat lengths to get an idea of what type of fur you want your dog to have. The longer the fur the more grooming involved. The color you choose is a matter of individual taste. Keep in mind the color of many Shepherds alters from their puppyhood to around 2 years of age. Your dog may become lighter or darker. Perhaps they will lose some of their markings as the color fades into the adult pattern. The best way to know what color and patterns your dog grows into is to see the parents of the litter. If the father is unavailable, then ask for photos. Why should you care where your dog comes from if you only want him as a pet companion? You want to get a dog that will live a long and healthy life from a source that has quality puppies. These tips will help you make the best decision on what type of pup fits in your life. Newspaper and Internet Classified Ads Newspaper and internet ads are in abundance. Many backyard breeders hide behind ads online or in local papers. But some breeders who use newspapers and classified ads are reputable and knowledgeable. The problem is you need to visit them to find out, and this can take time to sift through them all. Try the following more reputable suggestions to save yourself time. Dog Care Professionals Ask dog professionals for recommendations. Check with your local veterinarian, groomer, and boarding kennel personnel if they know reputable breeders in town. These professionals are good sources of quality leads. Use the same caution that you will for a classified ad. Verify their suggestions. Many of these organizations regularly receive puppies they need to re-home. While you might not know the full pedigree of the dog, purebred GSDs find themselves in shelters and rescues from no fault of their own. These organizations are a good resource for your first pup. Before adopting, find out as much information as you can. Was the puppy exposed to children? Did he live with other dogs or cats? A well-organized shelter or rescue helps you choose a German Shepherd match for your lifestyle. Start with looking online for GSD rescues and local shelters. Dog Clubs Dog clubs are local and national. These groups put you into contact with registered breeders through their own programs. They can give you the name of the GSD club contact closest to you for breed contacts. Dog clubs also have dog shows open to the public. This is a good time to watch the breed in action and to ask around for quality breeders. While using a dog club to connect you with a reputable breeder is not the only choice, it is one of the more reliable. If you are using a breeder to choose your German Shepherd puppy, this section will help you know the good from the bad. Use these tips to stay safe. Are selling overpriced or under-priced dogs. Lie to you and say you can make money off your new puppy by breeding them, despite them having flaws. Tells you that the GSD is a dog for everyone, with no disadvantages. Breeds multiple types of dogs and claims to be an expert on them all. If a breeder lets their mothers get pregnant more than once a year, this affects the quality of the puppies, so ask how many litters the mother has. These breeders selling unhealthy puppies also will refuse to take bag their dogs if you need to return them for any reason and have no contracts. They have healthy puppies and will answer your questions and have you make multiple visits. Openly show you where the mother and pups spend their time, including their garden or yard. Tells you the up and downs of owning the breed. Have all pedigree and vet paperwork on hand for your review. Specializes in breeding only GSDs source. They openly share this information with you. They have screened their dogs for health issues and can confirm this with documentation which they proudly give you a copy. Healthy mothers are given rest from breeding, and a reputable breeder gives their mothers time off from reproduction. Ask if your breeder if they are willing to take back their dogs if you cannot keep them, as this is standard for a quality breeder with a good reputation. Make sure your breeder has a written contract with detailed information and health guarantees. These are expected for safe breeding practices. How to Buy a German Shepherd Puppy Following this guide gives you the best chance of buying a German Shepherd puppy that suits your lifestyle. Know what you want from your GSD and where to find quality dogs. Learn what to look for when buying a German Shepherd puppy to stay safe from a sick pup and a bad breeder. German Shepherds have their own unique set of challenges. They are a large, active, and intelligent breed that requires an understanding owner who is willing to train their GSD using positive techniques. Devote yourself to their overall health to see the best results and help give you and your dog a lifetime of happiness. Remember, your pup will need mental stimulation to keep their brain active , a gentle exercise program , and need daily love and affection. Buying a German Shepherd puppy is a choice for your whole life that will bring you many years of joy and excitement! Found this helpful? Share it! She has a Bachelor of Science degree, with Honors, and has been training dogs for over a decade. Related Posts. Life Span Did You Know? The German Shepherd is one of the most versatile, well-recognized, and popular dog breeds in the world. The modern German Shepherd is descended from a family of various German herding dogs. Breed standards were not developed until the late 19th century when Captain Max von Stephanitz, a German cavalry officer, worked with Arthur Meyer and other breeders to develop the ideal German herding dog. Stephanitz and Meyer wrote the breed standard in and the American Kennel Club recognized the German Shepherd as a member of the Herding Group in .Although they were originally bred as herding dogs, they were also bred for versatility, which made the German Shepherd an all-around working dog that could excel in a variety of applications. German Shepherds are one of the common dog breeds employed in K-9 units in both police and military applications. They also make great service dogs and, of course, are still awesome herding dogs and farm dogs! The German Shepherd is a strong-willed and highly intelligent dog. They have a playful, energetic spirit and tend to get along with children, other dogs, and other pets, which makes them a great family companion. A born protector, the German Shepherd will provide a great sense of security for their family while their loving and lively personality will make them fit right in as a companion. German Shepherds are naturally protective and can be wary of strangers at first. A well-socialized German Shepherd will bark to alert you and tends to warm up to strangers once introduced. German Shepherds are dogs that were bred to herd and work. This, plus their high energy, makes them a better fit for homes with fenced yards where they can run. They can adapt well to larger apartments as long as plenty of time is dedicated to ensuring they get enough exercise, mental stimulation, and attention every day. A bored, ignored, or under-exercised German Shepherd can often become a destructive one. They also can be sensitive to their surroundings and large gatherings can be off-putting. With a longer coat, they tend to prefer cooler climates and are sensitive to heat. The German Shepherd is a generally healthy breed, but there are some potential health concerns and good breeding practices make a big difference. Potential health concerns to be aware of in a German Shepherd include hip dysplasia, elbow dysplasia , and degenerative myelopathy. Reputable breeders will screen their dogs to avoid passing preventable issues to puppies. So, make sure you are asking about the health and genetic history of both parents. You can also ask about any health tests or clearances that have been done. As a barrel-chested breed, the German Shepherd is also at risk for bloat. While the German Shepherd is highly intelligent and highly trainable, they are generally not recommended for novice owners. If you are a novice dog owner, enroll in puppy training classes or enlist the help of a professional dog trainer; not just for your dog, but for yourself as well. Training assistance will help you grow in experience and build a strong bond between you and your German Shepherd puppy, which is essential. Also, the GSD has a thirst for training and fulfillment. They get bored easily and especially with repetition, so continued training with your German Shepherd throughout their life will be necessary. German Shepherds have a medium-to-long double coat. They will shed year-round and heavier as seasons change. Brushing a few times a week is usually sufficient; brushing daily is even better and your GSD will likely love you for it. Bathing is occasional on an as-needed basis. Ear checks weekly with careful cleanings as needed can help prevent ear infections. German Shepherds are high-energy working dogs. Not only do they require a lot of daily activity, but they also are a herding breed that was made to run, guard, and observe, so they need a job to do to be happy and healthy. Daily walks plus playtime, time to run, and other activities are usually enough for a GSD, but they will likely be up for more activity if you are. With their versatility and athleticism, you can try a lot of different activities when puppies finish growing and they are cleared for higher-impact things. A fully-grown German Shepherd usually stands inches tall and weighs pounds. German Shepherds generally live for years on average. Corporal Duncan brought him back to the United States and Rin-Tin-Tin became one of the most famous dog actors in history. Featured German Shepherd Article. May not even be aware of the breed standard. Breeds to any convenient dog. Strives towards the ideal. Often helps to define it. Does not need to promote establishment; sells to brokers, pet shops, etc. Often rescues only to attain more stock. Rarely attends shows or trials. Shows and trials to objectively test breeding stock. Often judges, provides seminars, writes articles, and willingly mentors serious Hobby Breeders. Knowledge Often pretends to know some. May share false or incomplete information. Studies continuously. Impacts the breed for many decades with knowledge of dogs over many generations. All pups sold have full breeding rights. Yes, and diligently follows up on progeny. Keeps up with health and temperament issues affecting the breeding and provides in-depth guarantees No need to; mostly supplies brokers and pet shops. Meets minimum standards as required by state law. May refuse to acknowledge most problems. Maintains a solid support system — accepts full responsibility for every puppy produced. Performs health testing for all breeding stock for genetic diseases affecting the particular breed. No interest, may offer papers as proof of quality. Papers alone are not proof of quality. No interest. May provide undocumented paperwork for appearances sake. Is unfamiliar with health testing usually statements of good health are stated to impress consumers. Intensive testing always a priority. Often initiates club sponsored seminars and clinics. Maintains records on all dogs in gene pool including progeny. Often supplies brokers and pet shops, records unavailable. Dogs and puppies are often auctioned off in lots, records unavailable. Focuses mostly on current dogs, no records or knowledge of genes. Attempts to continuously track every puppy produced. Bases entire breeding program on extensive gene pool data. Clean environment always maintained Minimum standards vary greatly in cleanliness. Minimum standards maintained for state inspections. Conditions may vary greatly depending on available income, usually makeshift accommodations. Clean, healthy and mentally stimulating environment. Expected longevity with any particular breed Will continue as long as the sales are coming. Depends on popularity of specific breeds. Unrealistic expectations — easily disillusioned. On a mission-plans to stay for the long haul. Health guarantee provided No, it cuts into profits. No health guarantee beyond proof of first set of vaccines, if that. Not qualified to give advice if a problem arises. Offers written guarantee and is available to answer questions to new owners. Good knowledge of history in dogs. Extensive knowledge of health history, offers replacements to owners of genetically affected dogs. Ability to meet the parents of the litter If available, may be in poor physical condition. If available, dogs are not used to contact with people. May or may not be well loved and cared for companions, often unwilling to show entire litter or parents to buyer. Shows friendly mother and entire litter in clean environment; stud dog too, if in residence. Helps buyer choose appropriate puppy. Can explain how breeding was planned to emphasize specific qualities and can speak at length about how puppies compare. What you can expect after purchase Nothing, may not be able to contact at all. No concern for dog after sale is final. Available for questions, and wants to keep in touch. Will take back dog or puppy at any time. After purchase will help with training and grooming, available for all questions and knows the answers. Price Priced according to market, but is marked up from original source for profit. Mid-range to move puppies quickly. High end of mid-range. Price will not reflect all that is invested. Use only physically sound, mature dogs of stable temperament for breeding. These characteristics are rarely, if ever, determined before the age of two for females. Continue to educate themselves regarding genetic diseases pertinent to the breed including, hip and elbow dysplasia. Documentation of hip and elbow screenings should be available to prospective puppy buyers. Apply the same high standards to outside bitches sent to their stud dogs as they apply to their own breeding stock. Temperament testing of a litter before puppies are offered for sale is encouraged. Take appropriate steps to have each puppy examined by a licensed veterinarian for general health prior to placement. Each puppy should be vaccinated and de-wormed by a veterinarian. Endeavor to gain personal knowledge of the temperament and health of every dog they breed, or to which they breed, in order to gather information on which to base future breeding decisions. They share this information fully and honestly with other breeders and with prospective buyers. Sell breeding prospects to knowledgeable, ethical and experienced persons or are willing to help educate and guide novices. Do not engage in misleading or untrue advertising and do not use GSDCA membership as a marketing tool. Do not sell, supply, donate or surrender any dog for which they are responsible to a pet shop, catalogue house, wholesale dealer in dogs, Humane Society or to a laboratory. They should have reasonable assurance that each individual receiving a dog will provide a home with appropriate shelter, restraint, control and responsible care. Encourage puppy buyers to go to puppy obedience classes to help their puppies to become better canine good citizens. The achievement of a Canine Good Citizen certificate should be encouraged. Since homeowners insurance and local laws vary greatly, a refusal to let you visit the kennels may not, in and of itself, be a bad sign. You should ask for and receive a satisfactory explanation. The puppies are not social or look sickly. How to read those ads. A few more things to look out for. Anyone can buy a puppy from a champion, but it does not mean that they have any other interest in the breed but to bank on the name and make money. Having a Champion in a pedigree is like having a billionaire relative. AKC registration does not guarantee quality. AKC papers are much like the title of a car; papers are issued to the junked Chevy on blocks in your yard just as easily as they are on a brand new, shiny Jaguar. AKC does not control breeding, approve litters, or guarantee temperaments. AKC Registration is automatic if you buy from a reputable breeder — they will provide all necessary paperwork when you buy a puppy. There are several groups that are registering dogs, even mixed breeds, for a fee. This registration means nothing, and is of no value to you. Are there too many defects for the animal to be bred? Shop with care. Rarely will a good breeder have the luck to own both dogs for the perfect litter. There are some good and very reasonable reasons to have both parents on site. However, you need to ask the right questions and understand why this is true. They might be, they might not. Are they too big to be cute anymore? Need more money? Is there a problem? Usually because there are more on the way. Be very wary of this one. Will a Breeder Ask Me Questions? Conscientious breeders want the best available home for their puppies. This determines the amount of time you will have available for your new addition. There are very important items that should be supplied by the breeder. Breeders will typically give you the following items: A signed pedigree A current Health Record; including de-wormings and vaccinations. American Kennel Club registration papers or application Sales contract. The type of contract varies and must be mutually agreeable to the breeder and buyer. Much depends on what you expect from the puppy show, pet, or performance. Feeding schedule including the type and amount of food. Copy of OFA certification of sire and dam, if available.
I am familiar with common and uncommon health problems they may face so when my boyfriend and I decided we were ready to adopt our own english puppy finding a reputable breeder that prioritizes health was most important to us. Erica and Mitch of Bruiser Bulldogs are just that. They are experienced, ethical and quality breeders. I was referred to them by my friend that I trust after I saw their gorgeous healthy puppy. Our Puppy Primrose is the light of our lives! Bruisers was there to assist us every step of the way. We would highly recommend Bruisers Bulldogs to anyone looking for their own happy, healthy pup! Leah H. We were lucky to have come across Bruiser Bulldogs and even more so the fact that they were near our family and hometown made it even better. We have had Clementine Callie for four months now, and she is a wonderful dog. Her personality is amazing, and I think part of it is breeding and the other part is Erika and her family lovingly raising the puppies in their home with plenty of attention and snuggles. I also was impressed that, rather than send the puppies out right at 8 weeks, Erika kept ours for a few extra weeks because she was tiny and not read to leave her mom yet. It's that care that differentiates Bruisers from other breeders. Emily R. Erica was easy to work with thru the entire process from application to adopting and now beyond as we host our new family member, Chief. Her on-call support and willingness to provide open, honest advice to all of our questions and concerns continues to be appreciated. We would highly recommend Bruiser Bulldogs to anyone looking for an English Bulldog to join their family. Elizabeth W. Lady L. They are experienced, responsive and knowledgeable about all things bulldog related. They went above and beyond for us and are truly dedicated to all of their pups! We love our little girl so much and would recommend Bruiser to anyone looking for a healthy beautiful bully. Jonathan E. Erica and Mitch are trustworthy, excellent communicators, fair, passionate, and produce the best bulldogs. We were at the top of the waiting list for months and Erica reached out every litter to see if we were finally ready for a bulldog. When we were, she was very easy to work with. Her knowledge on bulldogs is outstanding. We had many questions on the process and she always knew what was best for the puppy. We've had Penny formerly Blair for two months and she is very healthy, energetic, playful, and sweet. She is great with other people and dogs. We are so happy with our pup. When we are ready for bulldog 2, we will only consider Bruiser Bulldogs. Mitch C. Bowser was born April and is an integral part of our family. When we were first exploring English Bulldog breeders our biggest concern was the overall health of the dogs. We decided to work with Erica at Bruiser Bulldogs because we liked their focus on improving the breeds breathing abilities and the fact that the puppies are raised within her family environment before coming home with their new owners. Bowser also breaths clearly and our vet was impressed with his overall health from the moment we brought him home. All that said we know English Bulldogs have a predisposition to many health issues and that his current health can not predict the future. With that In mind its important to start with a breeder that open to answer any of your questions as Erica has ours, and that strongly believes in improving the breeds overall health profile. Adam B. My sister ended up finding Bruiser Bulldogs and we knew right away that they were the breeder for us. In September we ended up driving 9 hours to pick up two Bruiser bulldog puppies- one for my husband and I and one for my mom. Jackson and Penelope have been nothing but a joy. They are both very athletic and healthy. They are also HUGE snugglers and always want to be with you. It is an absolute pleasure having these two bullies in our lives! Erica is very knowledgeable about the breed. She is very hands on throughout the process and is just overall a kind and honest person to work with. With all that being said I cannot recommend Bruiser Bulldogs enough! Collyn C. One of the reasons we chose Bruiser Bulldogs was due to the claims about breeding for health. During our first visit at our vet's office, he told us that our pup was one of the healthiest English bulldogs he had ever seen. He is healthy, happy and social. Would recommend to anyone. Christina S. We seen our dog on their website and sent them an Email. Mitch called us and personally walked us through the process and made sure we had the right dog for our family. We couldn't be happier when we picked up our dog Ramsey, Erica made sure we had everything we needed and then some. They are truly amazing people who breed truly amazing dogs! Jim T. Free Bulldog Puppy Starter Kit! Sweet loving girl looking for her forever home. She is potty trained. Entergizer bunny. Needs room to roam with family to entertain. Looking for loving homes. They are super playful and good family dogs. They are all current on their shots. Shot records available if necessary. All dogs are AKC certified. She carries blue and chocolate. She has not been spayed. She is very sweet, muscular and healthy. If you are interested in her give me a call. I have attached photos of them, we kindly ask family homes only, no kennels. Each puppy will come with : - AKc paper work? Puppy pack with toys, information about the breed and routine, food. Micro chipped? Health checked? Life time support If I miss your call I will get back to you, thanks for your time. View Detail English bulldog ready We are letting thispuppies go to any pets lovers. Great pedigree. Ross-Line Bullies. Molly x Phantom. Razors edge and gotti line xxx xxx-xxx1 View Detail English B. The price and money is not the problem, but you love and time you will share with them. .They are full of fund to be with. One is red and the other is fawn. Both are top quality males. They have nice big blocky heads, huge nose ropes, are very short and stocky with lots of muscle and wrinkles. They are 11 weeks old, potty trained, vaccinated and dewormed. Tails are docked. Parents are tiny, for more details and pics feel free to text or call me at.House and kennel trained, must sell due to work schedule. Can send more pictures upon request. All papers available. He is super playful and loves to be center of attention. This little boy is a bundle of joy and full of life. The vet has commented on her health and great jaws. The parents do not have any kind of hip dysplasia or food allergies. I have two litters of Olde English Bulldog puppies for sale. One mini litter 8 weeks old and one standard litter 10 weeks old. They are gorgeous and healthy. English bulldogs for sale in texas "We pride our selves on making exceptional quality bulldogs" Health Guarantee We provide a limited 1 year health guarantee on your bulldog purchased from us. This helps guarantee the health of the bulldog. We want to make sure that our customers feel comfortable and trusted, when buying their English bulldog with us. The blueeyes Bloodline We have built up our English bulldog bloodline from scratch when we just started breeding 10 years ago. We have got colors such as Merle, blue, lilac, double chocolate, and features like Blue Eyes or exotic markings. One of the top canine color testers! This will assure you that what you see in the photo will be what you see when you meet us. We will guide you through every step from vet visits, to grooming, and feeding. If you are using your bulldogs to breed, we will also be their to help you with the process. As seen on.English bulldog puppies for sale As you can tell from our website, we mostly specialize in AKC English bulldogs for sale Texas and French Bulldogs for sale. Since we are a very small hobby breeder owning more than the breeds we already have will just overwhelm us and lower the quality of our dogs. Our main goals are to: 1. Make the breed have better health 2. Give a better quality of life to these amazing dogs 3. Give people the gift of owning a bulldog Some of the colors we offer are Lavender French bulldogs, Merle French bulldogs, Lilac French bulldogs , etc for our French Bulldogs. The Best Bulldog blog! Follow us on our bulldog blog where we frequently post tips, tricks, and new information about French and English bulldogs for sale. Additionally you can subscribe to our newsletter and stay updated on new Bulldog blog posts, and new French and new English bulldogs for sale on our website. We are trusted breeders for over 10 years, and have a lot of experience with English and French Bulldogs. So if you need some help go check out our bulldog blog and grow your knowledge of french and english bulldogs.
It is recommended to consult a veterinarian if the dog has one of the types of diarrhea described below. Watery diarrhea in French bulldogs Watery diarrhea can be a sign of stress, a viral or parasitic infection. This type of diarrhea can lead to dehydration very quickly especially in young dogs so make sure your dog gets enough fluids. Mucous diarrhea in dogs Diarrhea containing mucus may be an indicator of the presence of parvovirus or parasite. In that case, take your Frenchie to the vet immediately for an examination. Black diarrhea in French bulldogs Black-colored diarrhea can be an indicator of internal bleeding in the stomach or small intestine. How to solve diarrhea in French bulldogs? Diarrhea usually stops after a few days of home care. If the dog is generally healthy, then you can do a couple of things. To prevent your batpig from dehydration, make sure to provide him with constant access to fresh water and encourage him to drink it in large amounts. It is often recommended to restrict a dog from meals for 12 to 24 hours. Therefore, it would be best to consult a veterinarian about proper nutrition and possible food restriction. Rice water — cook rice in a larger amount of water. Remove the rice and feed the dog with rice water. White rice and peeled potatoes — Carbohydrates and fiber can contribute to normal stools in dogs. Yogurt — The bacteria in yogurt can help Frenchies who tolerate milk and dairy products. Protein — a pure source of protein such as eggs boiled and chicken without skin and bones. Special dog food — there is food that is made for the purpose of soothing digestive problems in dogs. Sometimes it is necessary to buy this type of food from a veterinarian. Not every food will necessarily help every dog. Therefore, you may need to experiment with these foods before you find one that suits your Frenchie. Diarrhea in dogs — activated charcoal Dissolved medical charcoal is often prescribed as a remedy for diarrhea in French bulldogs. You can buy it in a pharmacy and it should be given only by the recommendation of a vet. Your dog should take it max 4 days, ie. Post navigation. YouTube Frenchie Woes: French Bulldog Diarrhea Explained Even a healthy French bulldog may get diarrhea, but when it's a constant issue, there may be something else going on. Knowing the most common causes and treating minor problems with diarrhea can help your bully in the short-term, but you may want to seek the help of a vet if you feel it's more persistent and debilitating. Basically, your bully may have IBS problems due to chronic food allergies. They tend to have food allergies and sensitivities that lead to diarrhea episodes. In most cases, it's just gas. French bullies are known for their flatulence, in fact. There are several reasons that your pup may have diarrhea, but in a French bulldog's case, it's typically due to food allergens. There are also parasites, gastrointestinal diseases, and other issues that could be triggering this response. This is why it's important to monitor your bully and see if they are eating well, drinking water, and generally up to their old tricks and happiness levels. Symptoms of French Bulldog Diarrhea The symptoms will range depending on whether the problem is due to allergies or a medical condition. You may see a loose stool, watery discharge, constipation, or frequent need to defecate. You may also notice that your pup's stomach is groaning, and they'll typically be a bit gassy. You should also look out for other changes in your bulldog's stool, such as different colors like light green or even near-white diarrhea. They may display a lack of appetite and show signs of a fever. Here is a full list of symptoms to check for that require a more serious visit to the pet doctor: Bloody stool that appears black Very rotten smelling stool No energy, laying around for multiple hours with no want to get up Nausea Persistent diarrhea over 2 days Pus from eyes, genitals, or nose There are certain conditions in a frenchie's history that may also trigger diarrhea. You should look for the following conditions: Pancreatic disease Addison's disease Ehrlichiosis tick-borne illness If it's a more serious issue, you'll likely notice other symptoms about your pup, such as hanging, loos skin with a very tight, round stomach. This is a sign of bloating in autoimmune liver diseases, and your pup may need to be drained before switching to another diet. What Diet Should French Dogs Eat to Avoid Diarrhea French bulldogs, unfortunately, have a predisposition for different allergens in food, which is why they aren't supposed to eat the following: Corn. Motion Sickness my frenchie has diarrhea and vomiting One of the most common culprits for diarrhea in your French Bulldog, especially in a puppy or younger dog, will be a diet change or dietary indiscretion, such as eating garbage or another item not meant for consumption by canines. Puppies and young dogs are not unlike human babies and have a penchant for exploring the world through their mouths. While this is relatively normal behavior, it can lead to the occasional consumption of rotten food or items that cause stomach upset in your French Bulldog. Dogs usually require several days for their digestive tracts and systems to adjust to a new diet. French Bulldog owners should also be mindful of the amount of food their puppy or dog is consuming, as overeating can also cause acute diarrhea in dogs. Some dogs suffer from motion sickness, the result of which may be episodes of diarrhea, vomiting, or nausea during or after travel. Dogs that are not well adapted to travel, and only travel for instances such as veterinary visits, may find that the increased stimuli and stressful experiences that follow traveling severely impact their digestive systems. Dogs with medical issues, such as inner ear infections may also suffer from motion sickness, leading to diarrhea. Loose stools are generally the first sign or symptom of diarrhea in your dog. Diarrhea stools may be soft, like mush, completely liquid, or in some state. In that case, retrieving a sample to bring to a veterinarian for testing may be necessary. Dehydration is a primary concern for your French Bulldog if it has an episode of diarrhea. Still, if their gums are tacky or sticky, your dog is dehydrated and needs to be seen by a vet immediately. Several other symptoms to look out for requiring veterinary attention in a more severe case of diarrhea, such as lethargy, vomiting, or bleeding. How to prevent diarrhea in your French Bulldog or French Bulldog puppy: Preventative measures can be taken to avoid or decrease the number of times your French Bulldog or French Bulldog puppy has diarrhea. This means being particularly vigilant about watching what your dog eats and has access to for puppies and young dogs. Making sure garbage and trash bins or containers have secure lids or are not easily tipped over is crucial. Strictly enforcing rules against feeding human food to your French Bulldog or puppy is also important. A puppy or young dog requires constant and careful watch to ensure they do not ingest anything that could make them sick. When transitioning your French Bulldog or puppy to a new diet, it is important to do so gradually. Introduce new foods a little bit at a time, usually over one or two weeks. Also, ensure that the amount of food being given to your French Bulldog is appropriate for its age and size. To prevent diarrhea in your Frenchie while traveling, it is best to introduce your French Bulldog or puppy to travel at a young age. Attempting to make travel both frequent and pleasant for your dog will reduce the anxiety that your dog may feel during car rides and other travel experiences. Committing to the comfort of your French Bulldog or puppy through its environmental experiences will significantly reduce potential unexpected and unpleasant instances of diarrhea. Are there any natural or at-home treatments for my French Bulldogs diarrhea? Suppose your French Bulldog or puppy is afflicted by an acute or non-serious bout of diarrhea. In that case, it is important to keep them hydrated and to drink small amounts of fluids throughout the day. What can I give my french bulldog for diarrhea: Most cases of acute diarrhea can be handled at home and without veterinary care. Home remedies for Frenchie with diarrhea: Allowing your dog to fast or go without food for 12 to 24 hours is a popular method to treat diarrhea in dogs at home; however, French Bulldogs are a smaller breed that requires nutrients during illness and would not benefit from this method. Smaller dogs, puppies, and older dogs cannot handle a fast of this nature and should be given other forms of at-home treatment. Treating your French Bulldog or puppy for diarrhea at home can be achieved by doing something as simple as boiling some rice. Boiling rice, then removing the grain and feeding the creamy rice broth to your dog will keep your French Bulldog hydrated while also providing some nutrients. A bland food diet of plain rice, plain chicken without skin, or plain eggs may also be suitable for providing your French Bulldog with essential nutrients while recovering from diarrhea. When should I take my French Bulldog to the vet for diarrhea? Some instances of diarrhea are more severe than others and require veterinarian attention. Suppose your French Bulldog or puppy is presenting signs of dehydration. In that case, you should see a veterinarian immediately as this can lead to several system imbalances and cause severe illness. Take your French Bulldog or puppy to the veterinarian immediately if it is vomiting, presenting pain, weakness, or fever. Suppose your dog continues to have worsening diarrhea for more than a couple of days, or the issue becomes chronic. In that case, you should take your dog in for examination by a vet. How will the vet treat my French Bulldog Puppy with diarrhea? A veterinarian will treat your Frenchie following the seriousness of its symptoms. Some cases are easily diagnosed with certain bacteria or parasites and do not require further testing, resulting in a simple prescription of medication and dietary care instructions at home as diarrhea passes. For cases of diarrhea that have become severe, a veterinarian will run a series of tests first to determine the cause of diarrhea and how ill it has made your dog. These tests may be as minimal as fecal examination, X-rays, fecal DNA tests, or as invasive as an intestinal biopsy, endoscopy, or even exploratory abdomen surgery. Such cases of diarrhea are considered acute or sudden and are often treatable at home. Natural and home remedies can be effective but will also vary depending on the age and breed of your dog. French Bulldogs require slightly different care than larger breeds. Though rare, severe cases of diarrhea in your dog can occur, a veterinarian should be contacted immediately in such cases. The question of why your French Bulldog has diarrhea may have many answers. Still, the question of when your French Bulldog will get diarrhea is only a matter of time. There are so many different causes of diarrhea in Frenchies. It may be something that causes stomach upset like stale food, inedible objects, or poisonous substances. Common issues that produce runny poop include changes in diet or parasites. Underlying conditions or diseases such as inflammatory bowel disease IBD can also cause diarrhea. IBD can go unnoticed for years until more serious symptoms appear. Inflammation of the small intestine enteritis and colon colitis are examples of IBD. Chronic allergies to certain food products like dairy or wheat are very common in French Bulldogs and can be a cause of diarrhea. Cleaning products are another culprit. Diarrhea can even be a symptom of potentially deadly viral infections like distemper and parvo. Or kidney or liver problems can also produce loose and watery stools. How do I treat French Bulldog diarrhea? Most cases of diarrhea can be treated with a change in diet or medication. Your Frenchie may have eaten something to trigger diarrhea. You can watch for other symptoms and withhold food for about a day. In the meantime, be sure to provide plenty of water and encourage frequent drinks. You can also provide chicken broth, beef broth or Pedialyte as well. A small portion of boiled chicken breast and white rice is a good substitute meal while your Frenchie is recovering. If the suspected cause is a food allergy, your doctor can prescribe a special diet. Other foods can be gradually reintroduced over time. Wrap Frenchie ownership requires time and patience. There are a variety of health conditions that can affect Frenchies. Pet insurance can help to defray the cost of medical bills, but certain conditions may not be covered. This should be about once a year for healthy adult dogs. Their health problems are manageable with a good vet and proper care. Featured French Bulldog Diarrhea. Its not the most exciting topic, but something we have all dealt with at least once. It seems Frenchies have extra sensitive stomachs, especially at puppy age. Many families bring their puppy home at 8 weeks old when they have recently been weaned from breastmilk and are still getting used to eating kibble. Add on top of that the stress from separation anxiety, and its highly likely to result in diarrhea. Separation anxiety is a whole other topic, so very briefly, it is a side effect of being separated from everything your puppy has ever known in his short life. The familiar faces, siblings, mother, sounds, smells, food, and area are all gone in once instant when coming home to his fur-ever family. The stress from this tremendous transition in life can cause many things, including diarrhea, and can even depress the immune system. This is one cause of diarrhea I have seen over many years of breeding and experience with my French Bulldogs. They need a stable, loving environment first and foremost. Another cause of diarrhea can be sudden change in food, eating table scraps, eating rancid food, an intolerance to any specific ingredient, or food poisoning. If you think your French Bulldog might be intolerant allergic to an ingredient, ask your vet for an allergy test. If you are thinking about switching foods, do so slowly to avoid causing diarrhea. Mix the new food into the old food, each day decreasing the amount of old food, and increasing the amount of new food until you are only using the new food. Next likely cause is parasites. Dogs like to lick their behinds, some lick other dogs behinds. Some dogs even eat feces that they find outside. No matter how clean you keep your beloved pet they are most likely carriers of parasites. Giardia a single celled parasite can be found in the water, and even on the grass. It will live for months in moist conditions so all it takes is your Frenchie going on a walk outside, coming home, and licking his paws. Your vet should have your French Bulldog on a regular deworming schedule. I personally deworm once or twice a year preventatively with fenbendazole for five days following my vets recommendation for dosage which depends on weight. Its very important to remember you must follow up with a second treatment in two weeks. This is because many dewomers only kill the live parasite, but not the eggs. Not all dewormers target the same kinds of parasites. The transmitter of tapeworms are fleas. So if your French Bulldog has fleas, treat the fleas at the same time as tapeworm. If you see blood in your dogs poop they are likely infected with coccidia another type of parasite. Your vet can take a poop sample to test for parasites and give you medicine if you are not sure what they might be infected with and what to treat with. I deworm my French Bulldog puppies preventatively with fenbendazole and albon before they come home to their fur-ever family. However, giardia particularly can be resistant to treatment and persist in the right conditions. The right conditions would be including stress, very young or very old age, during pregnancy, active disease or condition which depresses the immune system. I mentioned earlier that separation anxiety can cause so much stress to a newly rehomed puppy that it depresses the immune system. Only tender loving care, and time can help with separation anxiety. However there are other things you can do to strengthen the immune system for example feeding super premium, easy to digest food, and probiotics to help the gut. I also feed my French Bulldogs ground raw pumpkin seeds which are a natural dewormer and help to make the poop solid. Yet another cause of diarrhea can be from a virus. Parvovirus and distemper both cause diarrhea and can be fatal. It is transmitted through contamination with infected feces and can be very difficult to treat in young puppies. Your vet can quickly test for parvo with a poop sample. My puppies come home with a minimum of their first set of vaccinations including parvovirus, distemper, parainfluenza, and adenovirus. That being said, the puppy will still need booster shots so talk to your vet about what vaccines your puppy might be due for. If your French Bulldog continues to have diarrhea despite ruling out anxiety, food related issues, parasites, and virus I would talk to your vet about ordering a lab to check for pancreatitis. A friend of mine ruled this out in his Frenchie. It was an expensive test, but after finishing the meds his dog finally stopped having diarrhea. Also ask your vet for more recommendations, especially if the diarrhea is accompanied with vomiting and other symptoms you need to act fast. Please comment down below if you think there is something I missed or if you have an experience that you would like to share. As always, sending our hugs and our love from NW Frenchies. Home » Blog » What to do if your pup has diarrhea? As we get a lot of questions about diarrhea, we take a closer look at what could cause that and how you can help your pup and when to ask for help! Why does my Frenchie have diarrhea? Common reasons why your poor pup has the misfortune of diarrhea could be: Eating leftovers causing a viral or bacterial infection. This is why we always recommend you regularly scan your kitchen and dining room, remove leftovers, and ask your family members to do the same. A sudden change in their diet. Make sure you check with the breeder what meals, which type of food your pup has been eating so that this could be continued. Unknowingly providing them with an abrupt change in their diet can cause a reaction that triggers diarrhea. We always tell the puppy parents what we fed their puppy with on the farm, and give recommendations on their future diet. Swallowing a small object. Back to being curious! Your pup may stumble upon small objects left on the ground or at home such as a small plastic toy, which can cause them to have an upset tummy and diarrhea — understandably! An allergy. Pups can have allergies, particularly to dairy or wheat, which can make their system react adversely. Allergies are hard to prevent, this is why we carefully select every TomKings parent puppy from an award winning bloodline so that we build the healthiest and most Frenchie-authentic gene pool for our TomKings babies. It would be loose stools that are watery in consistency and your pup would have frequent bowel movements. Chronic diarrhea — this is associated with more long-term issues such as an allergic reaction or Irritable Bowel Syndrome, which can be worsened by a change in their diet. Subscribe to our weekly blog newsletter: Subscribe to our blog newsletter! First name Email OK, so what do I need to do to help my poor pup? Make sure your Frenchie has plenty of water to drink — this is to avoid any dehydration. As harsh as this may sound — do not feed your pup for up to 12 hours so that their body has time to adjust and flush out the issue. Do provide them with a mild and low-sodium soup like a chicken or beef broth to have as a meal replacement. This still provides your pup with all the necessary water and nutrition they need to get back to bouncing health. After this, — depending on whether or not your puppy has vomited again during this time — do feed them in small doses a few times a day with bland food such as rice or plain, boiled white-meat like chicken. If their health is improving; gradually start to include their usual meals in their diet. Normally, diarrhea is not a serious issue and often gets better over a hour period. However, please do look out for more serious signs such as: A lack of appetite. Diarrhea in Frenchies can be messy, smelly, and downright frustrating. What causes dog diarrhea? And what can you do to help your best friend right now? The bottom line is there is no one size fits all cure for dog diarrhea, but there are some techniques that can help to calm things down literally. There are numerous different causes for a French bulldog dog having diarrhea we will discuss them and also focus on treating your French bulldog diarrhea naturally. Portrait of purebred dog bulldog isolated over studio background in neon gradient pink purple light. What are the causes of diarrhea in French bulldogs? There are many causes of diarrhea in French bulldogs. The most common ones are food allergies, dietary indiscretions, intestinal parasites, and bacterial infections. Food allergies can cause diarrhea in French bulldogs because they trigger an abnormal immune response that results in inflammation of the intestines. The most common offenders are beef, chicken, fish, and dairy products. Dietary indiscretions can also result in diarrhea in Frenchies. Eating any type of food that is not normally consumed by dogs can cause them to have loose stools as their system tries to process this new type of food. This includes chocolate, bones, and raw potatoes which are toxic if ingested in large quantities or over a long period of time longer than 10 days. These foods should be avoided at all times due to their high toxicity levels which can cause severe health issues such as organ failure or death if consumed regularly over long periods of time longer than 10 days. Intestinal parasites are another cause of diarrhea in Frenhies. Here are some common home remedies that can help in treating your French bulldog diarrhea naturally. Put your dog on fasting If your French bulldog is suffering from diarrhea, you may be tempted to feed them something to get the problem under control. One thing that you should do is put your Frenchie on fasting if they are suffering from diarrhea. This will help prevent further dehydration and allow their body to focus on healing itself instead of digesting food. You should only fast your Frenchie for 24 hours before reintroducing food slowly over the course of several days or weeks depending on how severe their condition is. When your pooch has diarrhea, they can be thrown out of whack and their immune system can get compromised as a result. French bulldogs with diarrhea may also have an upset stomach, which could cause them to have a decreased appetite. If this is the case, they may not be getting enough nutrition and vitamins through their food. These enzymes break down food so that nutrients can be absorbed into their body. This will help them feel better faster! Probiotics also help to build up their immune system, which can become weakened due to stress or illness like diarrhea. This means that pups who are suffering from diarrhea will be able to fight off infections quicker than before! The next thing to consider is whether or not you should give your Frenchie prebiotics. If you find that your dog has a lot of loose stools, it may be a good idea to try giving them prebiotics for about two weeks and see if that helps with their symptoms. Give bland diet If your Frenchie is suffering from diarrhea, the last thing you want to do is give him a bland diet. The best way to recover from diarrhea is to feed him foods that are high in protein and fat. The nutrients in these foods will help repair the lining of his intestines, which may have been damaged by whatever he ate that caused diarrhea in the first place. Feed pumpkin When your Frenchie has diarrhea, you may be tempted to give him a pumpkin. It also helps relieve gas, bloating, and constipation. The best way to feed your Frenchie pumpkin is to give him tablespoons mixed with his regular dog food. You can also add it to a small portion of water for him to drink if he prefers. Pumpkin can be used as an occasional supplement for dogs with chronic diarrhea or those who suffer from frequent bouts of loose stool. Conclusion Diarrhea is one of the most common stomach problems that a French bulldog can get. It can be the first sign of illness or it can develop and suddenly attack your dog without warning. Either way, you must treat it as soon as possible to make sure your dog gets better, in the same way, you would for any other stomach problem.
He has tremendous ball drive, is an outstanding elite level dock jumper and a strong and powerful protection dog. Cheryl feels this breeding will produce physically stunning and graceful dogs with excellent working ability for agility, dock jumping, nosework, obedience, rally and perhaps biting sports too! Lowell Road, St. Johns Michigan All rights reserved. Click here for detailed copyright notice. We use cookies to enable essential functionality on our website, and analyze website traffic. By clicking Accept you consent to our use of cookies. Read about how we use cookies. Cookie settings Accept Your Cookie Settings We use cookies to enable essential functionality on our website, and analyze website traffic. Cookie Categories Essential On These cookies are strictly necessary to provide you with services available through our websites. You cannot refuse these cookies without impacting how our websites function. You can block or delete them by changing your browser settings, as described under the heading "Managing cookies" in the Privacy and Cookies Policy. Analytics Off These cookies collect information that is used in aggregate form to help us understand how our websites are being used or how effective our marketing campaigns are. Save settings. The original-type purebred Dutch Shepherds have a below-average predatory drive and were bred to get along with and work alongside other dogs. These old-fashioned working-stock dogs are generally amiable with everyone. With over 36 years of experience, our Aachen Dutch Shepherds excel at a variety of K9 tasks and settings from family guardians, to the sport enthusiast, to professional trainers, to law enforcement. And about everything in between. You name it, our Aachen Dutch Shepherds are doing it or have done it! Our dogs DO what their owners want them to do. With over 40 years of experience, our Aachen Dutch Shepherds excel at a variety of K9 tasks and settings from family guardians, to the sport enthusiast, to professional trainers, to law enforcement. We have puppies that are ready for your home today! Our puppies that we have right now are ready for you! Pick your month and pick your puppy! Now also accepting deposits for puppies that are ready or will soon be ready! Book and reserve your choice puppy NOW, so that when the time comes, your puppy is already paid for and you can take home! We feed and recommend the entire pet food and pet care line of products from pawTree and Lifes Abundance. Deposits, payments, purchases, are non refundable. Federal License 73A.Life Span Did You Know? The Dutch Shepherd is a herding dog that originated in the Netherlands in the s. The Dutch Shepherd was a versatile, intelligent, and independent working dog commonly used by farmers and shepherds to guard flocks of sheep, herd them, and keep them away from crops. They were also known to be a reliable farmhand that would herd the cows for milking and pull milk carts. The Dutch Shepherd would also alert farm owners when strangers came onto the property and even kept the chickens away from the garden kept for use in the kitchen. These dogs were bred to be sturdy in order to adapt to herding over harsh rural regions and so that they had few demands in a sparse environment. The first breed standard in the Netherlands was developed in .The AKC currently recognizes the Dutch Shepherd a part of the Miscellaneous Class, which means the breed does not yet have full recognition. But, they have been given the Herding Group designation. Although they have maintained their herding and farm dog skills, the Dutch Shepherd is also a good fit for work as a police dog, search and rescue dog, tracking dog, and even a guide dog! A Dutch Shepherd is a loyal, affectionate companion and a highly intelligent dog breed. They make a great addition to a family as they get along well with children and other animals. These dogs are also active, alert, and watchful, which makes them a good watchdog. Because they were bred to be guard dogs and herding dogs, they may be suspicious or wary of strangers. As with any dog, socialization early and often results in a well-rounded dog that is confident in a variety of situations and with different people. Because the Dutch Shepherd is a high energy working dog, they are generally not a good fit for apartments. These dogs thrive in larger homes with yards where they can run or on a farm or ranch where they can roam and work. They tend to be a good fit for most climates. As with many dog breeds, they can be sensitive to extreme heat or cold. The Dutch Shepherd is a generally healthy dog breed. As with any dog breed, there are some health conditions to be aware of including hip and elbow dysplasia, thyroid issues , and goniodysplasia. Goniodysplasia is an eye defect that can result in small drainage openings, which can prevent eye fluid from outflowing normally. Asking the breeder about the genetic history of both of the parents and asking to see any health clearances can help allay potential concerns you may have. High intelligence and an intuitive nature make the Dutch Sheperd highly trainable. This dog breed is able to work alongside their owners or deal independently with their tasks. But, obedience training is necessary to keep this dog mentally stimulated and to let them know what they are expected to do. This dog breed has independence and a strong character that can be a challenge for first-time dog owners when it comes to training, which can result in an obstinate dog that makes its own decisions. Dutch Shepherds tend to be a better fit for active owners and families who have experience with dogs. First-time owners can do well with this dog, but enlisting the help of a professional dog trainer or enrolling in training classes is recommended for effective obedience training. Common coat colors are gold brindle or silver brindle, but the rough-haired coat type can sometimes be so curly that it loses its brindle look. Each coat type has its own grooming needs. The short-haired coat type requires brushing a few times a week and daily brushing during the heavier shedding sessions twice a year. The long-haired coat type only requires brushing about once a week. The rough-haired coat type tends to be quite curly and only needs to be brushed once a month. During seasonal changes twice a year, their coat also needs to be hand-stripped to help keep them comfortable. For all coat types, bathing is on an as-needed basis. Checking in on their nails monthly and trimming as needed is usually sufficient. You want to make sure their ears are dry, free of wax buildup, clean, and clear of debris. This can help prevent ear infections. Dental care for dogs is often overlooked, which is why dental disease is one of the most common health issues in dogs. You can also use vet-approved dental hygiene chews or treats, or even a specially-formulated dental care diet, to help supplement your efforts. By getting them used to it early and keeping it a positive experience, you can help make grooming a much easier process for both you and your dog throughout their life. It may even become a bonding time that your dog looks forward to! This dog breed is a working dog with a lot of energy, so they need more than just a few walks every day. The Dutch Shepherd is known for being a competent working dog, which means they need a job to do to be happy. That, paired with their trainability and high energy, make them a good fit for dog sports. Generally, Dutch Shepherds are a good fit for herding trials, tracking events, obedience, and more. A fully-grown Dutch Shepherd usually stands between inches tall at the shoulder and weighs between pounds. A Dutch Shepherd generally lives years. They were often tasked with herding the sheep to pasture in the morning and bringing them back to the barn in the evening and expected to do so on their own without prodding or guidance. Featured Dutch Shepherd Article.
German Shepherds of all ages are typically heavy year-round shedders. The reason for their noticeable increase in shedding is that this is when they start to grow in a new adult coat. For this to happen, their baby fur has to go. Yet, unlike other breeds where they shed their hair all at once. It happens gradually over the course of a week or two. It then gets replaced with a new, coarser, denser coat. Keep reading to learn more about when these adorable puppies and their coats. Losing the Puppy Coat At Birth German Shepherd puppies are born with a dense, fluffy coat that keeps them warm and snug. It was also thick enough to keep him protected from bumps and falls. That soft, but highly dense, coat helps reduce their risk of injury. You probably know by now that German Shepherds are big shedders anyway. Although, during that time, there will be a distinct increase in shedding. GSDs have a medium-length coat that consists of two layers: an undercoat and an outer coat. The undercoat is the one closest to their skin. This fuzzy layer is thick with fluffy hairs that are relatively short, measuring less than two inches on average. It serves one primary purpose: to keep the dog comfy and cozy all winter long. Then, you have the outer top coat. It comes in three different lengths: short, medium, and long. Even though GSDs shed non-stop all year long, there are two times during the year when their shedding becomes excessive. They do this again in the fall to make room for a new, thicker coat to grow in preparation for winter. This ability to adapt is one of the reasons why GSDs are great at functioning in all kinds of various weather conditions. His online resource contains Hundreds of Excellent Dog Training Videos that will take you step-by-step through the process of developing a healthy, happy well-behaved dog. That said, they still do a lot of shedding, and their fur is just as susceptible to getting tangled and matted up. Thus, the best type of grooming brushes for this short-haired breed is pin brushes. It helps remove tangles and dirt. They also work to eliminate pests, such as fleas and ticks. Slicker brushes work best with dogs that have wiry hair. They have short, thin wires placed close together on a flat surface designed to effectively remove mats, dirt, and pests. Those with hair on the longish side will also benefit from an undercoat rake. Long-Haired To keep their coats slick, shiny, and tangle-free, long-haired GSDs do well with an undercoat rake. As the name suggests, this grooming tool has many tiny, curved, sharp blades placed close together. It also helps break up mats and remove loose hairs. Dogs with a long outer coat will also need a slicker brush to ensure their fur is clean, knot-free, and shinier than ever. It should be no different for your dog. But you need to help him. The Ultimate Guide to Dog Health is the answer. This handy guide will help you recognize the symptoms of the health problems above. Get the knowledge to stay ahead of these terrible issues that can rob your lovely dog from vigor and life. This is especially important because GSDs are such people lovers. So, being the friendly, fun-loving dog that he is, grooming becomes a special way for the two of you to spend quality time together. Check out more emotional benefits grooming has on your German Shepherd: Increases the special bond you have with your furry four-legged friend It makes your pooch calmer and more relaxed The positive reinforcement dogs get during grooming makes them more confident Fosters positive behavior Paul S. Paul has been creating content for the dog niche for many years. The information he shares comes his first hand experience growing up in dog lovers household and then owning multiple dog breeds of his own as an adult. Paul enjoys doing the hard research to collect, analyze and present our dogtemperament. Do German Shepherd puppies change color? Yes, as they grow, these puppies naturally change their coats. Expect a dramatic coat change as it turns into an adult. Do you ever wonder how these puppies go through color changes? You can witness these fun replacements of colors until your dog reaches two years old. They naturally change their overall appearance as they age. Even the color of their eyes changes, too! Adult coats simply replace them gradually as they grow. When you see a newborn puppy, it will be hard to tell what its dominant color will be. There are also German Shepherd puppies that are born with overall white color, which is an exception. White pups will stay all white until adulthood. At Age 0 to 2 Weeks At this age, changes to the puppy coat begin. Some keen dog breeders can tell if the German Shepherd puppy will have an all-black coat or change its color. Aside from coat color, you can also tell at this point if your dog will have short, medium, or long coats. They may turn all black, or their color may develop a darker or lighter color. At 4 to 6 Months When German Shepherd puppies turn four to six months old, they start to shed off their puppy furs. As a result, their coats gradually become thicker and denser as well. By this time, you can see your puppy develop into an adult dog. There will be small or drastic changes, and at this stage, you can usually tell what the dominant color of your dog will be. This is one of the most exciting stages. You can certainly tell if it has turned out to be black, black and tan, gray, or sable. You can often see them in the show ring. However, the original color of German Shepherds is sable because they were bred as working dogs. Nowadays, there are a lot of colors that German Shepherds can have. Black and Tan When you think of a German Shepherd, the first picture that comes into your mind is black and tan. The black appears mostly on the upper limb and their faces, while the dominant color for the chest, neck, and underbellies is tan. Black and Red For this one, the black color mostly appears on the saddle or upper limb and face. The chest and underbellies, however, will have a dark red appearance. Black The dog has a pure black coat, and it is very rare. You cannot see any visible color on them aside from black. Their origins are either both black parents or black and tan. Bi-color Bi-color dogs are those that have a dominant black coat color with a sign of another color. Their face, legs, and feet may have minimal color variation. They are bred intentionally. Gray German Shepherds with gray color have a distinctive appearance. You will see the whole body of the dog with the dominant liver color. You can see most of them in dog shows. Its coat is literally like that of a panda! This is a purebred dog and not a combination of parents with different color breeds. The rare gene altercations are responsible for its cute color. The coat appears to have more black and tan colors and a few white spots. Sable Sable is one of the most popular colors of German Shepherds. You can mostly see this coat color with the working lines of German Shepherds. Red Sable Red sables are rare breeds. They are sold expensive because of their unique color. It resembles a rich brownish-red coat. Its fur has black tips. At 24 months, German Shepherds generally tend to stop changing their colors. If you notice an excessive change in color at this point, consult your veterinarian for immediate assessment. There might be some underlying conditions that you need to address. All canine friends are great companions. When you own a German Shepherd, you will be amazed at how they change their colors into adulthood. Each German Shepherd has its unique coat color. The genes have the biggest impact on their color. The most important thing to note is that you own a healthy and happy German Shepherd regardless of its color. Paul S. Paul has been creating content for the dog niche for many years. The information he shares comes his first hand experience growing up in dog lovers household and then owning multiple dog breeds of his own as an adult. Paul enjoys doing the hard research to collect, analyze and present our dogtemperament. Hair is close to the body Hair is slightly longer than short coat Hair is longer and thicker Minimal feathering on legs and tail Feathering on legs and tail Feathering on legs and tail is more pronounced Easier to maintain and groom Can be more prone to matting and tangling Requires more grooming and maintenance Shedding can be more noticeable Shedding can be moderate Check Out Our YouTube Video on German Shepherd Coat Type Lengths… Short vs. Medium vs. They shed continually throughout the year, albeit at a varying rate as the amount of fur shed by the undercoat is heavier during the fall and spring seasons. The fur around the neck is slightly longer and thicker, and they have marginally longer hair on the rear of the hind legs to the hock and the rear of the forelegs. This type is a safer purchase for anyone unsure about the show circuit. They are also the preferred choice as working dogs. Medium-haired varieties qualify for shows as well but can be more expensive. The type at a glance: Has a double coat and a topcoat with 1 inch or shorter hair. Most common coat type. Often used in working roles such as police, military, search and rescue, and service dogs. Commands a medium-to-high price. Can enter dog shows depending on color acceptability. This entails brushing him two to three times a week. This will help remove loose fur trapped in his coat and simultaneously form a mutual appreciation bond. Brushing and de-shedding will need to increase to three to four times a week in the spring and fall seasons because the undercoat shedding increases. I like it because it reaches safely through the topcoat and removes the loose undercoat with ease. Generally, a German Shepherd needs no more than two to three baths a year. They have a fuller look, and they combine the most desirable traits of both the short-haired and long-haired types. Longer topcoat fur makes a dog look aesthetic. My German Shepherd is medium-coated, as you can see in the below photo. My German Shepherd Willow is medium-haired Plush coats have a topcoat length somewhere in between the short and long-coated varieties. They also have an undercoat which allows them to take their beautiful appearance to dog shows. On average, a medium-coat German Shepherd has a topcoat length between 1 and 2 inches. Since the greatest driver of the medium-haired dog price-hike is his ability to get into and win dog shows, you should pay extra only if you want to enroll him in one. Having said that, many owners, including myself, will purchase a medium-haired German Shepherd having no intention of showing. They appreciate the look and temperament of this type. The type at a glance: Has a double coat and a topcoat with 1 to 2-inch hair. Coat type is not common but not uncommon either. Commands premium price, especially if they have a qualifying color. Also used in various working roles such as law enforcement and service dogs. However, they will also require regular brushing. Again two to three times a week is a good practice. Shedding in plush-coated dogs also increases in the fall and spring when they shed their undercoat ready for the new season ahead. Regular brushing also fluffs up the coat for the best appearance. Before using the de-shedding tool mentioned above, I use the FURminator grooming rake , also from Amazon. This is better for thicker fur, such as the plush coat, and I use it for extra undercoat care. Medium coats should also be bathed times per year as over bathing will dry their skin and remove natural oils. However, their undercoat is often missing, which makes them unfit for AKC conformation events. The hair is often shiny and may form a parting along the back. Feathering occurs on the ears and legs, and they will have longer and thicker fur around the neck, which looks like a mane. On average, the topcoat features hair of at least 2 inches in length. In fact, in many instances, their missing undercoat requires a longer topcoat cover for temperature regulation. Ruskin House of Shepherds Long-haired varieties are considered objectively beautiful. However, their absent undercoat disqualifies them from a competition where said beauty would be rewarded. Because the long-haired variety cannot usually enter conformation, you can buy one much cheaper than a short or medium-coated dog. The least common coat type. Usually commands a lower price. Cannot enter a dog show unless double-coated. Friendlier temperament due to lack of working drive. Shedding is consistent throughout the year in single-coated dogs, without the massive increases in the fall and spring. You will still need to brush them frequently to prevent knots and tangles in the long fur. I recommend a good slicker brush, such as the Hertzko self-cleaning brush from Amazon. This brush is excellent for getting rid of tangles and knots without hurting your doggo, as the fine bristles do not scratch. They also retract back into the brush to avoid getting damaged when not in use. Looking at the appearance of long-coated GSDs, one would assume they require a lot of washing. The lack of an undercoat makes it too risky to wet the topcoat as the dog can get cold. Double Coated or Single Coated? The only German Shepherds with a missing undercoat are the long-haired ones. In some rare instances, a short-haired German Shepherd might have a very thin undercoat and might be disqualified from the show ring for the same reason. You can afford to have a single-coated pet if you live in a warmer climate. With the absence of an undercoat, they are more vulnerable to extreme temperatures. That said, you should not pay a premium price for an open coat since such a coat type is considered a fault. Open Coat at a Glance Technically has an undercoat; however, it is practically non-existent as it is extremely thin. Cannot enter dog shows. It is considered a fault, the same as a single coat by the AKC. Should cost less than the average German Shepherd. Temperature Regulation Open coat German Shepherds with longer topcoats are simply called single-coated. If your dog has an open coat, he is vulnerable to the elements. Making sure your dog is sufficiently protected from the cold and heat is one of your key responsibilities. Puppies When choosing a companion dog, it is normal for coat color to be a major consideration. But how about the German Shepherd coat? Do German Shepherd puppies change color? This article will discuss German Shepherd puppy coat coloring and how that coloring changes over time. Yes, German Shepherd puppies change color as they develop into adulthood. Even after they completely shed their puppy coat and grow their permanent adult coat, you can still expect to see some subtle changes in color. Instead, it sheds and changes continuously from birth to around 6 months. Once your German Shepherd turns 7 months old, the changes to their coat color will be more subtle. Nevertheless, it will continue to transform until they become adults at around 2 years old. Puppies are single-coated and their fur is generally soft and fluffy. Over time, they will shed that coat and develop a double-coat composed of dense fur and coarse outer hairs. Thick, downy fur helps puppies regulate their temperature within their first few months of life. However, their needs will change as they develop into adults. In the spring, German Shepherds blow their undercoats in preparation for the warm summer months. They will again shed heavily in the fall to develop a thicker and possibly darker winter coat. However, their appearance will still change—possibly multiple times—until well into adulthood, which starts at around 2 years old. However, you may still notice some subtle changes in thickness as the seasons turn. The color might also change slightly due to various factors like diet and sun exposure. However, experienced breeders can often tell whether a puppy will be long-coated before they turn a month old. It is also common for some unique markings to appear or disappear at this time. Nevertheless, the change in appearance might still be significant between 7 and 18 months old. Their shade could become darker or lighter, and their coat pattern can show some slight changes as well. Changes could still occur as a result of diet, environmental exposure, or health issues. No matter what color you prefer, your German Shepherd will benefit from proper nutrition and supplements for dog coat growth. Liver These are all approved show-ring standard coat colors in case you want to show your GSD. But is there any way to know for sure what coat color your GSD puppy will have when they grow up? First-time German Shepherd owners are often very surprised to learn that a large breed dog like the German Shepherd can continue growing for 24 to 36 months. An adult German Shepherd dog may weigh anywhere from 50 to 90 pounds and stand anywhere from 22 to 26 inches tall paw pad to shoulder. That is a lot of growth that needs to get done. For this reason, genetically speaking, it is advantageous for a large breed puppy to grow in spurts, spacing it out over time. Canine coat color experts explain that dogs have two basic pigments: eumelanin melanin and phaeomelanin. Eumelanin Eumelanin pigment always defaults to black. Eumelanin not only determines basic coat color but also controls for iris eye colors and nose colors. Phaeomelanin Phaeomelanin always defaults to red. Like eumelanin, the introduction of different genes can determine where on the red spectrum phaeomelanin expresses shows up. Unlike eumelanin, phaeomelanin only affects coat color and not eyes or nose. This is the chart many breeders use to design breeding programs to focus on certain coat colors. Each parent dog contributes a set of genes that control for color: coat color, eye iris color, and nose color as well as skin color. If you have a preference for a specific adult coat color, whether because you want to show your GSD or you are developing your breeding program, the best guarantee is to work closely with a knowledgeable breeder who understands coat color genetics. There is one exception to the coat color change to be aware of: often GSD puppies born with white coats will stay white. The coat is no exception here, as we mentioned in the introduction here. When your GSD puppy is born, all the puppies are typically but not always solid in color. The most common GSD puppy colors are black, grey, or — surprisingly — white. Kennels Von Lotta, a German Shepherd breeder, and kennel have posted this picture of a litter of newborn neonate German Shepherd puppies that were born black. Whelping to 2 weeks The puppies will start to show some differences in coat color and also coat length. By the day mark, breeders say it is often possible to tell if a GSD puppy is potentially going to grow up to have a long coat. As South Florida Shepherds kennel and breeder explains, the very same parent dogs can produce GSD puppies with very different adult coat colors. Because nearly all GSDs are displaying their permanent adult coloration by 18 to 24 months, continued changes or a sudden recurrence of color changes should always be investigated further. Now you know what to watch for as your little fluffy German Shepherd puppy starts to display their full and fabulous adult coat color and pattern.
Labrador Feeding Questions Here are some common questions that Lab owners have when deciding how much to feed their dogs. Can I feed my Labrador once a day? Feeding frequency for dogs, including Labradors, can vary depending on various factors such as age, activity level, and overall health. While some dogs may do well with one meal a day, it is generally recommended to divide their daily food intake into two or more meals. Labradors, in particular, are known to have a tendency to overeat and become overweight. Feeding them once a day can lead to hunger and potentially encourage them to eat too quickly or excessively in one sitting. This can increase the risk of bloating, a potentially life-threatening condition. It also provides a more consistent energy level throughout the day. They can consider factors such as age, weight, activity level, and any underlying health conditions to provide tailored feeding recommendations. How much should I feed my overweight Labrador? Feeding an overweight Labrador requires careful portion control and a balanced diet. This will serve as a reference point for developing a weight loss plan. Choose a high-quality, low-calorie diet: Opt for a balanced dog food that is specifically formulated for weight management. These diets are lower in calories while still providing essential nutrients. Follow portion control: Follow the feeding guidelines provided on the dog food packaging, but keep in mind that these are general recommendations. Your veterinarian can help you determine the appropriate portion size. Monitor treats and table scraps: Limit or eliminate high-calorie treats and table scraps, as they can contribute to weight gain. Consider a gradual weight loss approach: Rapid weight loss is not ideal for dogs and can have negative health effects. This slow and steady approach is healthier and more sustainable. Regular exercise: Along with a controlled diet, regular exercise is essential for weight management. Consult with your veterinarian about appropriate exercise routines for your Labrador, taking into account their current weight and any existing health conditions. Should I feed my Labrador twice a day? Yes, feeding a Labrador twice a day is generally recommended for optimal health and digestion. Splitting their daily food intake into two meals helps to promote better digestion, prevent overeating, and maintain a consistent energy level throughout the day. Labradors have a tendency to overeat and become overweight, so dividing their meals can help control portion sizes and prevent excessive food consumption in one sitting. It also helps to regulate their metabolism and prevent hunger pangs. By feeding your Labrador twice a day, you can provide them with a more balanced and manageable feeding routine. It allows for better absorption of nutrients and reduces the risk of digestive issues such as bloating or stomach discomfort. Foods to Avoid for Labrador Providing leftovers to your Labrador can be harmful to its health because there are some foods that dog parents should avoid giving their dogs. Chocolate is rich in a stimulant known as theobromine, which is somehow similar to caffeine, which is why it is poisonous for the Labrador. The number of stimulants may depend on the type of chocolate. This caffeine-like stimulant directly affects the heart and central nervous system of the Labrador. It may also cause some kidney issues even within 24 hours of eating chocolate. Vomiting, along with diarrhea, is a side effect of chocolate. Many vegetables are highly suitable for the health of Labradors, but onions and garlic are never allowed. Both of these can be toxic even if eaten in small quantities. Therefore, while cooking homemade food for Labradors, you must avoid garlic and onion. Alcohol is another harmful and toxic food item for dogs. If your pup consumes it even in small quantities, it may suffer from vomiting and diarrhea. Moreover, alcoholic beverages also cause depression, a shortage of oxygen, tumors, and blood change. Moldy foods and trash: Bread, nuts, some dairy products, and moldy foods are rich in toxins that cause illness. Take extra precautions to make sure that your Lab cannot access any moldy food. Best Food for Labradors When choosing a food for your Lab, of course cost is an issue. Labs are big dogs that eat a lot of food. Of course we want to spoil our furry friends, but buying the most expensive food on the market is not necessary. In fact, buy a good quality middle-of-the-list food, and even if you can afford more expensive food, put that money away for any unexpected veterinary expenses. Also, counseling the vet before choosing canine food can be a sound methodology for your Labrador retriever. No products found. As always, your veterinarian is a great resource for Lab feeding information. More Lab Information. Table scraps and snacks There are so many different brands of Labrador food available! And so many different opinions on dog food generally. Not to mention the alternatives to commercial food. Labrador Feeding Guide The amount you feed your Lab will vary depending on his age and the type of food you are giving him. The Eukanuba Adult Breed Lamb and Rice food suggests these serving sizes: 40 — 45 pound Lab, feed: — grams per day 50 — 55 pound Lab, feed: — grams per day 60 — 65 pound Lab, feed: — grams per day 70 — 75 pound Lab, feed: — grams per day 80 — 85 pound Lab, feed: — grams per day 90 — 95 pound Lab, feed: — grams per day However, these serving sizes will change depending on the food you use, and only apply to dry kibble! Most experts agree that the best food for any dog is one that keeps him in excellent health at a reasonable price. And choosing the best dog food for Labradors is not straightforward. We will look at the different styles of feeding first. How to feed a Labrador — different methods There are currently two very different approaches to dog feeding that are popular with many Labrador owners. Both methods of feeding have their supporters and detractors. At one time a lot of dogs were fed on canned food with an added biscuit mixer. Nowadays, only a small number of dog owners still feed this way. What about BARF? At one time, raw feeding or what you probably know as the BARF diet was considered to be a cranky and extremist fad. But as interest in raw feeding has grown and more dogs are fed this way, it is becoming clear that they are thriving too. The majority of dogs are now being fed kibble and a substantial and the growing minority are fed raw. Labrador dog food choices — dry kibble By far the majority of Labrador owners nowadays, feed their dogs on kibble. That is the dried pellets of dog food that you can buy in pet stores and online. All major pet food companies now supply a dried version of their brands. Is kibble good for dogs? It is really only a very short time a couple of decades since almost all dogs were fed on canned meat. These are a lot less popular now. The effect that this shift away from wet food and onto dried food, has had if any on canine health remain the subject of intense speculation. Busy modern homes are pressed for time these days. So convenience is an important factor. Storage Not only is kibble convenient, it also stores well, even after opening. Provided that it is stored in an appropriate container and kept in a dry place. Most dogs nowadays are trained with food. But what comes out of a kibble-fed dog smells very unpleasant. These are additional bulking agents that are not fully digested and that pass through straight through the dog. These fillers mean that kibble fed dogs produce much greater quantities of poop and much smellier poop, than dogs fed on raw meat and bones. Kibble fed dogs may also need their teeth cleaning on a daily basis. There may also be a small increased risk of bloat in susceptible dogs fed on a dry food diet. Should I feed my dog raw meat? Over the last ten years a more natural raw diet of meat and bones has become increasingly popular. Some people now believe that raw meat is the best food for Labrador Retrievers and many other breeds of dog. This is despite some websites giving out dire warnings of the dangers of letting dogs consume bones. Unfortunately, raw feeding does seem to attract a few extremists. Plus, it can be tricky to find objective and unbiased discussions of the pros and cons of raw feeding on the internet. The pros and cons Raw feeding is quite a big topic. It is both complicated and simple. Complicated because we tend to worry about the nutrients our dogs are getting. Raw feeding is not as convenient as kibble feeding, It requires plenty of freezer and refrigeration space, a designated preparation surface, and good meat preparation hygiene. Just as with meat preparation for people. Small puppies are growing fast and are vulnerable to diets with a poor nutrient balance. It is very important you do your research before attempting to raw feed a small puppy. This is because raw fed dogs get messy. It is hard in this situation to keep raw meat juices containing pathogens, away from children too small to understand the importance of hand washing The important fact here is that there is no right way to feed a dog. Your family needs to be considered as a whole. The feeding method you choose needs to fit in to your lifestyle and current circumstances. I fed raw to my dogs for many years. But I did not do this and could not have done this, when my kids were little. Nowadays, I sometimes feed kibble, if circumstances demand it. But prefer to feed raw whenever I can. Remember, many dogs thrive on kibble, and many dogs thrive on raw. Choosing the best dog food for Labs may also depend on your own circumstances. If you have a small puppy you may be happier feeding kibble With children under five, it may be safer for you to feed kibble If your dog has a close relative that has suffered from bloat, he may be safer eating raw If your dog suffers from allergies, he might do better on raw Now may be the right time to feed raw for you, or it may be the right time to feed kibble. Your circumstances are unique so only you can decide. For those of you the majority that will be feeding kibble. Choosing the lowest price Labrador food may not necessarily be the cheapest option. As very often, you will need to feed larger quantities of the cheaper food. Biologically appropriate kibble? It is usually a reasonable option to choose a mid-range in terms of cost food and see how your dog gets on with that. If your wallet can stretch to it, we especially like the Orijen brand. Orijen is what my dogs have as training food, and when I am not able to feed them raw. So if you decide to switch brands, do it gradually over the space of a few days by adding a little more of the new food and a little less of the old, each day. How often to feed your Labrador Many dog owners continue to feed their dogs twice a day throughout their lives. Some people feed their dogs once a day after twelve months of age. We do know that there is an association between bloat and large meals. Though this may only apply to kibble Once daily feeding is probably fine if you decide to feed raw meat. But with kibble it may be too much dry food in one go. I recommend that you feed your adult dog morning and evening. How often to feed puppies The amount of food that your Labrador puppy needs to eat each day must be divided into several portions. But it will almost certainly give him diarrhoea and could damage his stomach as kibble swells after drinking. From eight to twelve weeks your puppy will benefit from four meals a day. Breakfast, lunch, tea and supper. Space the meals at least three hours apart to give him chance to digest them properly. And make sure the last meal is a two to three hours before his last trip to the toilet at bedtime. Once your puppy gets to three months old you can divide his daily ration into three portions, and by six months to two. Breakfast and supper. How much to feed a Labrador? Recommended quantities can be found on kibble packaging and these will vary quite widely from brand to brand. They are also often on the high side. If your dog is a little overweight, feed about a third less than recommended for a few days and then re-assess his appearance. Your dog may well need less food than you think. How long should a dog take to eat his dinner? I prefer my dogs to eat their meals up fairly quickly. Plus, he will eat more enthusiastically at the next meal if he is a little hungry. How to feed a Labrador slowly A much more common problem in Labradors, is the dog that scoffs his dinner in a heartbeat and then begs for more with pleading eyes. There is an association between bloat and rapid eating, so if you can slow down your dog a little, it is probably good thing. The best way to do that is by using a slow feed bowl. Provided there is nothing in there which is unsuitable. Giving leftovers to puppies Puppies need a very well balanced diet to grow up strong and healthy. Unless you are a very experienced dog owner and knowledgable about nutrition and the dietary needs of a growing animal, it is not a good idea to feed your puppy on household scraps. And complete puppy foods contain all the nutrients your pup needs to develop a healthy body. Dog feeding equipment and storage There is a huge choice of feeding bowls available. You can get some very cheap and colorful plastic bowls. I like stainless steel. But I admit it is quite noisy to handle and use. And not as pretty as some of the ceramic products. Think carefully before you buy raised bowls as some studies have associated these with bloat. Storing dog food Kibble is for the most part a convenient food source. To keep your food fresh, an airtight container is a better bet. We like the wheeled pet food storage bins and they enable you to move heavy quantities of food around without putting your back out! This slimline version fits nicely in a cupboard. Well worth thinking about, especially if you have several dogs to feed. There are also some gorgeous storage containers now that beg to be put out on display. Feeding Labrador puppies When you first bring your puppy home, your breeder should have provided you with a diet sheet, some food, and plenty of information on feeding Labrador puppies. It is really important to stick with his familiar food for the first few days. Moving home is traumatic enough for an eight week old pup without giving his tummy a shock too. If you have not been given any food or any information on how to feed a puppy then I suggest you call in to your local pet store and buy a small sack of kibble puppy food that is appropriate for his breed and age. Giving water to your Labrador Puppies and older dogs need water available to them at all times during the day. Provided that it is at least an hour since his last meal. Kibble fed dogs drink quite a lot of water, raw fed dogs may drink very little. This is normal. When feeding problems need veterinary help All puppies need regular veterinary check ups and when you take your puppy to the vet for his vaccinations. This is a great time to ask any questions you might have on his diet and welfare generally. All dogs may eat less in very hot weather. But changes in appetite, especially sudden changes, can be a sign that a dog is not well. How often and what time to feed I will show you the best puppy foods, whether dry, wet, or raw, and look at food safety, together with schedules, quantities and even a handy puppy diet chart. Best Puppy Food for Labs The best Labrador puppy food provides a diet that is nutritious, healthy, and tasty. So, what is the best puppy food for your Lab? Puppy kibble or dried food is the most popular option. Kibble is complete and can give a perfectly balanced diet. Puppy kibble and tinned dog meat combined is another common choice among puppy parents. Feeding your Labrador puppy on home cooked food or on a totally raw diet is also possible. Raw puppy food is growing in popularity, and there are pros and cons to raw feeding your puppy. People often feel very strongly that one way of feeding is better than another, and you can always find evidence to support your view. Dog breeders, veterinarians and even nutritionists have their own strong views. The dire consequences they list for not listening to them can have puppy owners very worried. The truth is that there is no good quality evidence showing that kibble is better for the long term health of your dog, or that raw feeding is better. There are risks and benefits to both, and the main thing is to ensure that your dog has good quality food to eat. Puppy kibble suits some better, and raw puppy food is better for others. Puppy Kibble for your Labrador Puppy food made into pellets is called kibble. An airtight plastic container or tin will do the job, although you should make sure it is food grade quality. Puppy kibble is the best way of feeding your Labrador according to most breeders and your veterinarian is most likely to support this method of feeding. Good puppy kibble will contain every nutrient your Labrador puppy needs in order to grow and remain healthy. The kibble pieces will be tasty, good for keeping teeth healthy, and free from additives that can provoke allergies or stomach problems. Labrador puppy kibble only needs to be fed next to water. Puppy kibble from a reputable manufacturer is intended to be a complete and balanced food. But some owners like to mix in canned dog food or even scraps of raw food with kibble. Your puppy is likely to get an upset stomach or to not have the right balance of nutrition when fed this way. Whether you decide to feed only with kibble or you want to mix it up, pick a good dried food manufacturer and stick with them. Feeding your Labrador puppy raw food has its benefits and drawbacks. One of the downsides is that there is a lot to learn. Here is a link to the articles you need to help you decide whether or not raw feeding is for you: Although I like the raw diet for my dogs, most puppies fed kibble go on to have long and healthy lives. Whatever puppy food you choose, the most important thing is portion control. How Much to Feed your Labrador Puppy? People often tell me how much their puppy weighs, and ask how much puppy food they should give him. Your Labrador is particularly at risk if they grow too quickly. The following diet chart is for kibble fed puppies and does not apply to raw fed pups. It gives you an idea of how much to feed your Labrador puppy Lab Puppy Feeding Chart The Lab puppy feeding chart below is only a very rough guide. The quantity of food you need for your puppy will vary depending on your puppy and on the brand of food you are feeding him. Labrador puppy food must be aimed at medium to large breed dogs. Check the pack carefully and look at the dietary charts. Ideally, you want the optimal protein content and the lowest amount of additives. Part of this always comes down to the cost. The healthiest puppy food is usually the most expensive and may not be affordable for some families. The Cost Of Puppy Food Some puppy food brands are more concentrated than and contain a higher proportion of proteins, essential oils, and other nutrients. The absence of these fillers means that you can often feed lower quantities of more costly food, making them less expensive than they first seem. You might also find that cheaper brands make your puppy poop more due to those extra fillers going straight through him. While some brands are beyond the budget of many families, it is usually good to buy a premium brand. High Quality Brands of Puppy Food Some brands of puppy food have developed a reputation for producing a high quality product and have many devoted supporters, including breeders that have fed them to generations of puppies. The best food for Labrador puppies to consume in their first two to four months of life is milk from their mother. This specialised care is usually left to trained breeders or veterinarians, who are knowledgeable in caring for pups with no mother to nurse from. If you have recently brought a Labrador puppy into your family, they are most likely older than 8 weeks, and so have started to eat solid foods. You can do this by mixing some dry food with specially formulated puppy milk to form a soft mixture. You can feed your puppy this mixture three to four times a day. Over time, you can reduce the amount of milk you include in this mixture, until they are at the point where they are happily eating dry foods. Read on to learn how much you should feed a Labrador puppy as they get older. In their four months living with you, and once they are weaned off milk, Labradors are likely to reach almost half their adult weight. They will reach their full adult weight by the time they are 6 to 7 months old. With this rapid growth can come some risks. Labradors can be susceptible to bone growth disorders, like hip dysplasia and joint abnormalities that can start in puppyhood. Once your Lab puppy hits 6 months, their growth begins to slow down. Once puppyhood is over, you can move to feeding your lab twice a day instead of 3 or 4 times. Labs are still very active in their adolescent years, and so should be fed with this in mind. The transition from puppy food to adult food should happen at around 15 months. This is because, being a breed who grows very quickly, you want to ensure that you are feeding them according to their large breed needs. You need to take special care when considering what you should feed your Labrador puppy, as they require different nutrients compared to their adult counterparts. It is also dangerous for a puppy to overeat. Labradors are large breeds, which means they need plenty of nutrients and calories as they grow to ensure they go from being active puppies to healthy adult dogs. Labrador puppies need to eat food that is high in proteins and fats. Carbohydrates are also essential for supporting your active pup. Aside from nutritionally complete dry puppy food, Labrador puppies can benefit from the extra protein that raw meat can provide them with, such as lean beef, turkey, chicken, or fish. The amount of food you give your Labrador is determined by their weight, energy levels, and age. For most adult Labradors, around 1, to 2, calories per day from high quality food sources is ideal. Female Labradors, who tend to be around 5 to 10 kilos lighter than males, may need less food, as will less active dogs. Dogs who need less food, whether they are less active or simply older, will usually still need around 1, to 1, calories per day. You may want to alter the amount of food you are feeding your Labrador based on how calorically dense their food is. Adult Labradors should be fed twice a day, once in the morning and once in the evening. Their daily allotment of food should be split evenly between these two meals. For most dogs, it is recommended that you exercise your dog before meal times to assist with potty training. However, some dogs may benefit from exercise after eating: especially high energy Labs with a lot of energy to burn off. You should also try to give your Labrador a high quality food that is specially designed for large breeds, especially if they are very active. For example, less active senior dogs will need to eat less food as they will not be burning calories as quickly as a lively little puppy will. Senior dogs may benefit from a higher fibre and lower calorie diet. Your dog may also develop chronic or short term medical conditions that require specially formulated food. For example, Labradors can be particularly susceptible to obesity. As a breed, they tend to be one of the most commonly obese dogs in Australia. This is due to several factors, including a genetic predisposition to unhealthy weight gain and a famously large appetite. However, plenty of Labs suffering from obesity are simply overfed and not getting enough exercise. Choosing a low carb diet is crucial to preventing obesity in your Labrador. If you are unsure about what you should feed your Labrador, you should always consult your vet. They will be able to determine if your dog is suffering from any chronic health issues, and they will be able to create a nutritional plan to help keep your dog healthy and happy for many years to come. Wet food for Labradors is often high in protein and fat, and is better at keeping your dog hydrated than other food sources. Chewing on dry food can be especially good for teething Labrador puppies. A raw diet can be a good option for your Labrador as you have more control over the kinds of food and amount of nutrients your pup is consuming. For this reason, raw diets require a lot more work on your part as an owner. Whatever you decide to feed your Labrador, all dogs need a similar ratio of nutrients in their diets. Different dog breeds will need different kinds of nutrient support as they go through the various stages of their life. It can also be easy to overestimate the amount of food your Labrador needs to stay fit and healthy — especially if they are skilled at begging! You need to make sure that your dog is eating the right amount of food for their breed, their size, and activity level. You should also avoid foods that, while delicious for humans, can be harmful or toxic for dogs. Foods like onions, nuts, alcohol, cooked bones, and artificial sweeteners are commonly included in dinners meant for humans, but can cause serious health issues for your Labrador. No matter how old your Lab is, it is important to keep to a consistent feeding schedule. A feeding schedule can help you keep track of any changes in behaviour around food that might signal illness or physiological stress.
How Is Skylit Different? There are a number of ways that Skylit Labradors are different from other Labradors and breeders out there. Each of their pedigrees was unique. Several were the sons or daughters of show Champions. Others came from strong working lines. Skylit Labradors pedigree lines are unique to New Zealand. At Skylit Labradors I have the ability to produce a range of different shades — the darkest and lightest of yellows, the traditional black, chocolate, and yellow colours, as well as dilute versions of those colours. I do not breed strictly for colour but am aware that people have personal preferences. Health, temperament and fit-for-purpose are my primary focus with colour next on the list. I love developing their special traits and sharing their abilities with the community. I have a purpose and goal for each litter that I produce as well. That purpose may be to produce a litter of fantastic family members. Or it may be to produce great candidates for therapy or service dog work. It may be to produce a litter that will work well for active families, competitors or weekend hunters. It may be to find the next best scent dog candidate. I look for the natural tendencies in my Labs… what they gravitate toward… and that is where they are likely to excel. This in turn allows me to make better matches for those looking to add a Labrador puppy to their family. Life at Skylit If you want a Lab that will live outside or in your barn, then by all means, get a puppy that started life outside or in a barn. If you plan on keeping your dog in a kennel, then be sure that its parents were raised that way as well. Skylit Labs begin life immersed in both dog and human family life. They begin life in our shared home on 40 acres in the Manawatu. The dogs spend their days lounging around and playing with each other, me or friends but they also go on playdates, hang out at cafes, have visitors over, plod around the property, go for swims in the pond, lay by the fire, curl up on the couch, go on road trips across country, have sleepovers, and regularly run often boring errands with me. Health Testing I am a strong advocate of health testing. My Labs are genetically health tested for the common diseases found within the Labrador breed as well as several other diseases. Their elbows are also assessed by OFA. Hip and elbow evaluations help me to ensure I am making good breeding choices and reducing the risk that offspring will develop hip or elbow dysplasia due to a genetic predisposition. Note: No breeder can guarantee that their puppies will not develop hip or elbow dysplasia as both conditions can be caused by a mix of genetic and environmental factors. Breeding for good health is a non-negotiable rule for each of my litters I plan. What that means is that I feed what I feel is the most applicable species appropriate diet for canines — raw meat, bones and organs. They primarily eat beef, chicken, fish, lamb, duck, venison as well as the occasional quail, rabbit and wallaby. They are fed twice each day. Raw feeding plays a major role. The Puppy program Pre-Birth Producing a great litter begins long before the breeding takes place. It begins with properly assessing your dogs to ensure they are fit to breed. Are they healthy? Have they fully recovered from any previous pregnancies? Are they physically mature? Are they mentally mature? What are their weaknesses? What are their strengths? Do the potential mother and father compliment each other? The care of the mum-to-be before and during her pregnancy is paramount to a successful whelping. I have been blessed with wonderful mums and I hope that continues for as long as I breed! By taking the best care of them, they take amazing care of their babies. My key role in the early days is to support the new mum. That way she can do an exceptional job whelping, raising and nurturing her babies as life intended. Weeks Once the babies are born, their weight is tracked daily for the first two weeks to ensure proper growth. Each puppy wears a different colour collar so that I can be aware of each puppy individually. This helps with things such as fireworks, children crying, doorbells, thunderstorms, and much much more. Around 3. At 4 weeks of age the puppies begin separating themselves from mum and start exploring the outside. At this age the door is removed from their cubby so that the puppies can come and go as they please to use their potty boxes or to begin exploring outside. Weeks By 5 weeks of age the puppies are spending full days outside in their puppy play yard. Their mum is primarily nursing them in the afternoons and I am providing meals for them. Typically my mums finish nursing around 6 weeks of age but the puppies still have much to learn before they are ready to leave Skylit! This consists of my removing the potty boxes and putting the door back onto their cubby. Now at night time they are placed into their cubby and I will let them out through the night as needed. Within nights the puppies are sleeping through the night without needing to go out and they are alerting me if they DO need to go out to go toilet during the night. At this point I begin separation conditioning by initially splitting the litter into two cubbies and then three cubbies etc. I have found this process makes the departure from Skylit so much easier on the puppies AND their new families. Puppies are settled in their crates which is especially important for those puppies that fly to their new families. Other key events happening during this time period include a variety of visitors interacting with the puppies, exploration walks around the pasture and main house yard, as well as water play in the puppy pool. The puppy play yard adjoins the adult dog yards so the puppies frequently have doggy visitors as well. The puppies have their full vet checks based upon when they will be leaving Skylit and that involves their first car trip into town and lots and lots of cuddles at the vet clinic! Puppy Placement The Right Fit Labs vary considerably in their build, energy level and natural tendencies. Some live to retrieve, others to swim, and still others to cuddle up on the couch. Others are happy-go-lucky. Some are incredibly smart and love to learn. Others… not so much. Some are food driven. Some are toy driven. Some have big thick blocky bodies and some are built like extreme athletes. Like humans, each Lab is an individual. There are some traits and tendencies that tend to pass from parents to offspring. There are also signs of what that puppy may be like as an adult that begin developing from a very young age. As a Breeder I strive to get to know my puppies and look for how they are similar or different from their parents or other puppies I have raised. I have an application process for my puppies. They are not placed on a first come, first served basis. Instead I look for families who will embrace that puppy as a member of their family, loving and caring for it as fiercely as they would any family member. But my diligence is to your benefit. If approved for a Skylit Labrador, you have an advocate at your side that will do all in her power to ensure your puppy is a good fit for your family. I made a promise to my girls when I started breeding that I would only ever place their puppies in environments that would be at least as good, if not better than, the life I could give them if they remained here. New Family Guide In order to help each new family through the process of adding a Skylit Lab to their family, I have developed a step-by-step guide for my families. As new questions arise, I continue to add to the New Family Guide so that it can hopefully be a wonderful resource for each new Skylit Lab family! While the Sales Agreement may change slightly depending on the litter, the terms and conditions are fairly consistent. This is to protect the integrity of my program. I have invested countless hours and money into building my breeding program. It requires little to no thought and very little if any investment to throw two dogs together in a backyard and produce a litter. That is not how I breed and those are not the type puppies I produce. Breeding in that manner can do irreversible damage to the reputation of my program and its future success. If a family should desire a puppy from their Skylit Lab, I encourage them to reach out to me and we can look at whether it may be possible in partnership. This is due to several of my foundation Labs carrying the Dilute gene. While other kennel clubs around the world are more accepting of this gene, Dogs NZ has chosen to not permit the registry of dilute-coat-coloured Labradors nor any litter that had the genetic potential to produce dilute-coat-coloured Labradors. To learn more about this colour gene and the controversy related to it, click HERE. I register all litters with Dogs NZ that meet their dilute gene requirements. I do not breed to any Labradors that are not kennel club registered unless they were born here at Skylit and I can therefore be assured of their pedigree. If at any time you can no longer maintain or no longer wish to maintain custody of your Skylit Lab, they are to be returned to Skylit. They will either remain at Skylit for the rest of their life or should I happen to find a well-suited home for them, I will place them. If there are any proceeds from their re-homing I will return them to you. You can see a sample copy of the guarantee HERE. My puppy families know that they can reach out to me at any time, night or day, days a year. I take my commitment to my Labradors and their families very seriously. I WANT to know if they are struggling. I may be able to help. I am not a vet but my experience with my own Labs, all the puppies I have raised, my puppy families experiences and also the research and learning I do gives me a unique advantage to possibly be able to provide insight into what may be going on should a challenge arise. The same goes for training. I am not a professional trainer but I am happy to share what I know and perhaps it can help or perhaps I can recommend a resource that may be able to help. I truly care. The Skylit Labrador family is a community of puppy families across New Zealand, the UK and Australia that have one key aspect in common: They all have added a Skylit Lab to their family. They very likely followed your puppy from birth, may have a relative to your puppy, and have been in your shoes with raising their own Skylit Lab. Given that they may have a relative to your puppy or even a littermate! Many Skylit families reach out to others in their area for play dates as well. There are Skylit families who are more than happy to watch your Skylit pup for you should you be going away on holiday. Here we share in the joys and challenges of raising our Labradors. It is a devoted group that is truly interested in you and your puppy. We also have regular social get togethers with our dogs and even Skylit road trips! Being part of the Skylit family is a wonderful and unique benefit of adding one of my puppies to your family. Manawatu, New Zealand. They currently are:- Hip and elbow Radiographed and scored by a recognised panel DNA test for PRA [ or both parents DNA clear ] So this means if you breed a puppy that is by a clear over a carrier that meaning it can only be clear or carrier you can then put it to a clear dog A current eye certificate. Owners should not allow any of their dogs to roam at large or to cause a nuisance to neighbours or those carrying out official duties. Owners should ensure that their dogs should wear properly tagged collars and should be kept fully leashed or under effective control when away from home. Owners will clean up after their dogs in public places or anywhere their dogs are exhibited. Owners should agree without reservation that any veterinary surgeon performing an operation on their dogs, which could alter the natural confirmation of the animal, should report such an operation to the New Zealand Kennel Club. Owners should not agree to breed from a bitch in any way which is deleterious to the bitch or the breed. Owners should take care to ensure that when selling dogs there is a reasonable expectation of a happy and healthy life and will help with the rehoming of a dog if the initial circumstances change. Owners should provide written details of all dietary requirements and give guidance concerning responsible ownership when placing dogs in a new home. Owners should not sell any dog to commercial dog wholesalers, retail pet dealers or directly or indirectly allow dogs to be given as a prize or donation in a competition of any kind. Owners will not knowingly misrepresent the characteristics of the breed nor falsely advertise dogs nor mislead any person regarding the quality of the dog. Owners will ensure that all relevant New Zealand Kennel Club documents are provided to the new owners when selling or transferring a dog. Advises new owners about the NZKC Register that the dog is recorded on and explains any endorsements that may be applied to the puppy and why they have been applied. Permanently identifies breeding stock by DNA profile and microchip or tattoo. Makes use of health screening schemes as they become available , relevant to their breed, on all breeding stock. Ensures their puppies are well socialised before going to their new homes. Provides written advice to new owners on feeding, worming, socialization, exercise and future training of their puppy. Provides a written record from a veterinarian on the immunisation measures taken to date on the puppy. Is available to give reasonable post sale advice to the new owner. Provides the new owner with a Sale and Purchase Agreement, detailing any of the endorsements that may have been placed on the dog. Advises the new owner about the requirement and recommendations that apply to them as an Accredited Breeder and also make the buyer aware of the NZKC Complaint Process. Provides written advice, in the Puppy Sales Wallet on the continuation of socialisation, exercise and future training. Important — The Labrador Club is not liable or responsible for any puppy bought from a breeder promoted on the Labrador Club website. If you do feel that a breeder has not honoured the above declaration please correspond with the Club in writing. The Labrador Club does not guarantee the service of breeders on our Breeders page and the buyer should review and take responsibility for all contracts with the breeder. The Labrador Club does have a Code of Ethics and we strongly suggest you read it. Display Email Mistybrook Labradors are excited to announce that we are expecting a very special litter very early September !! Litter of 7 has arrived, all black! Our main interest is in producing happy, healthy, sound and typical Labrador Retrievers with exceptional temperaments. We breed, exhibit and compete with the dogs we love that are raised in the family environment. Our aim is to build a distinctive line of Labrador Retrievers we can be proud to take anywhere, do anything with and relish in the beauty and love at the other end of the lead. Puppies going off to their new homes will be DOGSNZ Registered, fully health and vet checked, vaccinated, microchipped and will have already started to have been integrated into our family environment. Generous Puppy Feeding Packs will also be available as well as feeding instructions. Jan and Peter Wallace are always available for any questions or advice. Extensive written instructions and advice on puppy Labrador rearing within the Puppy Pack. Visitors are always welcome at Mistybrook Labradors. For all further details, you can ring or email mistybrooklabs gmail. Display Email We David, Anne and son Andrew have been involved with Labradors since the early 80's - shooting over them, showing and occasionally breeding. We are a small kennel who have imported several from England and Australia, one from Sweden and semen from both England and Australia, all in the interests of breeding the best we can. We breed to the highest ethical standards and only from parents who have acceptable results from the health tests required by Dogs NZ. We breed primarily for us to have something for the show ring, although some do not make the grade! Despite our focus on showing most of our pups are sold as pets to approved homes. We have some yellow and some black bitches no dogs available for stud at present and typically produce pups in those colours too. We do not usually breed chocolates. We very occasionally have older dogs available for re-homing to approved homes. Please contact us if you would like to discuss buying an adorable Charing puppy, or taking advantage of a Lab who is a bit older. PS We are delighted that we have a litter of yellow puppies expected at the beginning of October. We are happy to take enquiries from people who want family pets.
Our Bernedoodles are from excellent bloodlines and all Pedigree information traces back to their AKC lineage. Our Dams and Sires have obtained extensive health clearances prior to being bred. These dogs will have a higher success rate for non-shedding, and are recommended for families with allergies. F1 Bernedoodles all have loose wavy coats that are typically minimal to light shedding, while F1B Bernedoodles coats can be loose wavy just like the F1 or curly and there are both coat types within the F1B litter. The F1B Bernedoodle is typically minimal to non-shedding. The coat of a Bernedoodle can vary from straight, loose wavy or curly. An F1 Bernedoodle will have a loose wavy coat, while an F1B Bernedoodle litter has both curly and loose wavy coats within the litter. The coat colors of Bernedoodles can vary based on the color genetics of the parents. We will also have Parti Bernedoodles. Daily walks are a must if you don't have a safely enclosed area for them to run freely. The Bernedoodle can be independent and does great being with family engaging in play, then happily laying on their own with a toy. It is still unknown how long Bernedoodles will live as it is a newer cross. The expected lifespan is hoped to be years. As with any dog, socialization and training should start while the dog is still a puppy and continue throughout its life. Look for a puppy kindergarten class locally or join the AKC S. Puppy Program , training based on positive techniques. You do not have to be an AKC purebred puppy to participate in their S. Puppy Program. Find a class here. This is a great place to start socializing and training. A well-socialized, well-trained Bernedoodle makes a wonderful family companion. Early socialization and training establishes those lifetime bonds between the family and puppy as these programs teach you how to communicate with your new puppy and get started on the right foot. You've come to the right place. Here, at Premier Pups, our Mini Bernedoodles are happy, healthy, and ready to embark on a life-long journey with their new families. These puppies are raised with love and cared for by the best in the business. We align ourselves only with the best breeders that meet our high standards. All our Mini Bernedoodles come with a year health guarantee that backs up our Premier Promise. Nationwide delivery is available for all out-of-state customers looking to adopt a Mini Bernedoodle. The beautiful Mini Bernedoodles are a blend of fluffy looks and darling personalities. They can be small or medium depending on their generation, but regardless of their size, they are simply adorable. Mini Bernedoodles are designed to be loyal and loving companions for equally loving owners. They thrive in a setting where attention and fun are plentiful. We partner with the best dog breeders in the nation to offer you healthy, happy Mini Bernedoodle puppies. Find your dream Bernese Mountain Dog and Poodle mix puppy today! A few of our Mini Bernedoodle Pups. This location lends itself to inspire a very desirable temperament in dogs; so that we have both "nature and nurture" going for us. The Bernedoodle is a mix between a Bernese Mountain dog with a Poodle. Click here to learn more about terminology concerning levels of cross breeding. Our Bernedoodle puppies are intelligent, friendly, playful, and goofy. Best of all they are loyal and loving. All our puppies are raised in our home and are highly socialized; we raise our puppies on the principles of puppy culture and Badass Breeder programs. We start crate training and potty training before any puppy goes to their forever home. We mainly focus on breeding F1b standard size bernedoodles. All WT Bernedoodles come from genetically cleared parents, and with a two-year health guarantee for inherited diseases. Go to our "parents" page to see the genetic reports of our parent dogs Again, our dogs are raised in our home, not in kennels. To ensure the best life for every dog in our program we keep a limited number of dogs in our house because we want to be sure each puppy receives the attention they need. We do utilize guardian homes also as are program is growing. We also will be rehoming our retired females when it's time. Please visit our FAQ's page for more details about guardian home opportunities and Retired dogs. Many times folks that are looking for goldendoodles, labradoodles, sheepadoodles, or aussiedoodles will often decide to adopt from us, mainly because they haven't yet heard of Bernedoodles! About us We are Matt and Sara Rigdon. Matt has been a landscaper, heavy equipment operator and builder. Sara is a Registered Nurse of 25 years but is now working full time with the bernedoodles and cabin rentals. We built and own a log cabin rental business in the mountains of NC where it is a great place to visit year-round. If you need a place to stay when you come to pick up your puppy just let us know and we will try to make sure a cabin is available for you. You are also invited to come visit the puppies at 7 weeks of age. Our website to reserve a cabin is www. Besides our cabin rentals we are also are parents to 2 biological children and foster parents. Our Current foster children are big helpers with the care or our dogs and puppies. We love people and animals. Our dogs were purchased not only to have hiking buddies and loving companions but to share their puppies with others because they are such great dogs. Our dogs and puppies also serve as therapy to the foster children that come into our home. Foster children are traumatized due to unfortunate circumstances and when they leave the only family they know they find great comfort in the love that our dogs and puppies give them. We cannot say enough good things about our Poodles and Bernedoodles. Sara Phone Text, email or call between 9am and 9pm daily except text messages or email only on Sundays. View Our Available Puppies! You should not confuse Mini Bernedoodles with Standard Bernedoodles. Our adorable Mini Bernedoodle are of the F1 variety. All the doodle moms are purebred Genetic Tested Bernese Mountain dog females. Our mini Bernedoodle pups usually end up weighing pounds and around inches tall when full grown. Most Mini bernedoodles live to be around years old. Mini Bernedoodles have become really popular because they shed very little after they shed their puppy coat, they are very hypoallergenic. We have specialized in breeding Mini Bernedoodles as well as a few other breeds for many years. They are a big part of our family and farm. We have also partnered up with several other reputable breeders that raise mini bernedoodle pups that meet our very strict criteria and genetic testing. We usually have a good selection of very high quality doodle puppies. So if you live near Half Moon North Carolina and are looking for a healthy and beautiful Mini Bernedoodle puppy then checkout our available pups now by Clicking Here. Below are a few of our Mini Bernedoodle Pups! View Our Available Puppies! You should not confuse Mini Bernedoodles with Standard Bernedoodles. Our adorable Mini Bernedoodle are of the F1 variety. All the doodle moms are purebred Genetic Tested Bernese Mountain dog females. Our mini Bernedoodle pups usually end up weighing pounds and around inches tall when full grown. Most Mini bernedoodles live to be around years old. Mini Bernedoodles have become really popular because they shed very little after they shed their puppy coat, they are very hypoallergenic. We have specialized in breeding Mini Bernedoodles as well as a few other breeds for many years. They are a big part of our family and farm. We have also partnered up with several other reputable breeders that raise mini bernedoodle pups that meet our very strict criteria and genetic testing. We usually have a good selection of very high quality doodle puppies. So if you live near Raleigh North Carolina and are looking for a healthy and beautiful Mini Bernedoodle puppy then checkout our available pups now by Clicking Here. Below are a few of our Mini Bernedoodle Pups!
Easiest Dog to Take Care of: Top 10 Breeds for a Happy Home Do you ever dream about having a furry best friend who loves to play fetch, gives the warmest cuddles, and greets you with the happiest tail wags every time you come home? A friend who is not just any dog, but the easiest dog to take care of? We know, it sounds like a dream come true, right? But we also understand that bringing a new puppy home is a big step. It's like adding a new member to your family, a little brother or sister.Top 30 Smartest Dog Breeds In The World If you're a dog lover, you've probably heard the age-old debate: which dog breeds are the smartest? While all dogs have their own unique intelligence and personality, some breeds have proven to be consistently brilliant over time. In this guide, we'll explore the top 30 smartest dog breeds ranked, from problem-solving whizzes to trainable and intuitive pups. We've done our research to provide you with an updated and informative.These pooches are joyful, lively, eager to please dogs. They are adventurous, kind, family-oriented pups who love hiking, swimming, canine games, sports and any, and all, family activities. These puppies are merry and bouncy little marshmallows. They are cuddly and sweet pups who love running around, playing, making friends and are very enthusiastic learners. The breed is divided into 3 recognized categories: Toy Poodle; Mini; Standard. Although they differ in size, one thing is for sure: they are glamorous companion pets. Questions about Poodle puppies for sale in Orlando FL? We have answers. Give me an overview of Poodle puppies for sale in Orlando FL. Poodle puppies range in price depending on the experience of the breeder or breeding company. Other factors that influence the cost of poodles include the pedigree and coat type or color. If you are looking to find a poodle within a certain budget, you can simply set your preferences on Uptown Puppies to reflect the price range that works for you. Do your breeders arrange travel for Orlando Poodles out of state? Yes, the majority of breeders and breeding companies on our database offer puppy transportation as part of the package. If you match with a puppy on the other side of the country, you can simply request to have it delivered to the closest major airport near you. Depending on your preferences, you might even match with a poodle puppy right around your corner! How do you screen Miniature Poodle breeders in Orlando? Uptown Puppies upholds the highest standards when it comes to experience and ethical practices. All of the breeders and breeding companies on our database have been thoroughly vetted to ensure proper healthcare, living conditions, and breeding practices. Once a breeder or company has been approved, they are then required to sign the Breeder Pledge. Why is Uptown Puppies different from other miniature Poodle breeders Orlando? By going through Uptown Puppies, you are guaranteed peace of mind when you match with the poodle of your dreams. What is a puppy mill like for miniature Poodle Orlando? Puppy mills are notorious for their unethical breeding practices, unkind treatment of puppies, improper living conditions and inadequate healthcare. Puppies raised in a puppy mill are often fraught with behavioral conditions that can last a lifetime, and typically have a number of health problems too. Are there any miniature Poodle puppies Orlando for sale now? Why not check the current availabilities right now, by quickly choosing your preferences to search our database?! What kind of dogs are mini Poodle puppies Orlando? Poodles are super cute and intelligent dogs, whose easily trainable natures make them a top choice for circuses and guide dogs alike. Poodles are cuddly, affectionate and playful little dogs that make great pets for the whole family. Poodles will keep you constantly entertained with their imaginative antics and fun-loving temperaments. How do I know I can trust you with miniature Poodle puppies in Orlando? Our organization is passionate about linking ethical breeders and breeding companies with loving homes around the USA. Feel free to take an in-depth look at our reviews and puppy alumni for proof of who we are and what we do!
mountain cur boxer mix puppies - We may earn money or products from the companies mentioned in this post. We put these two on our puppies from day 1 to get used to the feeling of a leash and collar. We have some more detailed information on best leashes and collars for your puppy below. I would advise against trying during the first 2 or 3 days in your home as they have enough to deal with getting used to a completely new environment and family. But by getting them used to a collar and leash at 10 weeks old, they will be comfortable wearing them by 12 weeks when you can start to walk them outside. How long will it take to get them used to a leash and collar? Some take hours, some take days, most will be comfortable by the end of 2 weeks as long as you take care to introduce them to it methodically. I have two highly informative buying guides for choosing the right size and style of leash and collar for every situation that you can find here: How to choose the right collars and how to choose the right leash. Otherwise it will be too heavy and uncomfortable. Choose a small, lightweight collar. The lighter it is, the easier it will be to get used to. Choose a wide, flat collar and not a thin round one. So get a wide flat collar, but one that is as light as you can find. Choose a collar with quick and easy to use clips and not a buckle fastening. You need to get the collar on and off as fast as possible and not have to fiddle with it. This makes the experience is as stress free as possible. Opens in new window. Be patient. It may take hours, it may take a couple of weeks, not all puppies learn at the same speed. So be patient and eventually they will get it. Try to act as though wearing a leash and collar is no big deal and is completely normal. Calm energy from you promotes calm energy in your puppy. They can become snagged on things and cause strangulation. For a puppy that constantly chews on the leash, spray it with Tabasco sauce, bitter apple or one of many other pet-safe bitter-tasting sprays available to deter their chewing. What you want to do is the first time you put it on, leave it on for just 5 minutes then remove it. Repeat this every half hour or 45 minutes for the first couple of days. Then leave it on for 10 minutes in each hour for the next day. Then 20 minutes in each hour the next day, and so on until you can leave it permanently on. By day 6 or 7 most puppies are used to their collar and comfortable wearing it for hours at a time. A puppy will learn at their own pace. To have the best chance at the quickest success, use the following tips and techniques. Any tighter than this is uncomfortable for your puppy and may even restrict their breathing. Any looser than this and they may be able to slip it off. This is why a plastic clip fastening is best as you can do it in a second. Some will remain quite calm rarely! A few will go absolutely crazy, scratch at it, roll around and make a huge fuss. You need to ignore their struggling. Just ignore all the fuss. To help combat this, you can use the power of distraction. Put the collar on before you feed your puppy one of their meals. Or put it on and then offer to play with them and their favorite toy. Also: You should only take the collar off when your puppy is calm and relaxed. Obviously you want to avoid this. So use food, training or play to distract them and get them into a calm state before you remove the collar. Then they will offer calm behavior to get it. You have to wait for calm. And you should also avoid giving treats when you take the collar off. Now, once your puppy is comfortable in a collar, you can move on to training them to get used to a leash. How To Get Your Puppy Used To A Leash ikostudio The following tips will get your puppy used to a leash and lay a great foundation to build upon for future leash training. You will learn to avoid developing bad habits that lead to pulling later on and develop good habits that help in future training. First of all, make sure your puppy is comfortable and confident wearing a collar, then in a secure and familiar room of your home you can attach a leash. As with the collar you want to almost ignore them. No encouragement, laughing or telling them off if they chew at or try to remove it. If the need arises, you can calm your puppy by using distraction. Call them over to you, ask for some obedience commands or offer them food or a toy and it will redirect their focus and attention away from the leash. Leave it laying just outside of their confinement area where they can see it but not get at it and use it as a chew toy, or place it near to their food bowl when eating so they can see it but will be too busy eating to want to play with the leash. We want them seeing the leash around to learn its nothing to fear, without being able to play with or chew on it. A good tip is to practice this from the minute you get your puppy home, a couple of weeks before ever attempting to attach the leash. Now you can start to pick up the other end. Instead, hold the leash and follow your puppy around, keeping the lead slack for them as you both go. It pays to have a pocket full of treats so if this does happen you can grab their attention and lure them toward you with a treat. You should practice this a few minutes every hour for a day or two. The first few times you lead them, have a treat in your hand or one of their favorite toys and use it to lure them around the room with you. Now put your puppy on the leash. Just encourage them your way you by calling their name and slapping your thigh. Make a HUGE fuss to make it a massive reward that they came to you. They will come eventually, just wait until they do and then praise and treat enthusiastically. Now repeat steps 1 to 4. Step 6: Repeat this exercise 5 to 10 times per session, each hour of the day and repeat for a few days until your puppy consistently moves toward you when they feel the slightest bit of pressure on the leash. This will not take long and once it is learnt it will benefit your future leash training massively! Step 2: As soon as they stop freaking out give total release of all pressure on the leash and give warm praise and a treat. This rewards them being calm. A few repetitions will teach them that outbursts get them nowhere and being calm gets the leash to slacken off and earns a treat. Step 3: Once your puppy has learnt to be calm to earn a loose leash, they have to do a bit more to earn their treat. Repeat this a few times. Step 4: Now only reward them for coming even closer. They will soon catch on to the fact that being calm and moving toward you earns praise and a treat. You can now follow the processes of stopping them pulling on the leash and leading them around the room as described earlier in this article. So try to avoid the following: Pulling on the leash yourself: This will achieve absolutely nothing. Additionally, dogs like most animals fight against restraint so when you pull, it just makes most pull harder. Also, your puppy pulls, they go forward. You pull back a bit, then eventually give in, they still go forward. So they learn your pulling is only temporary anyway and their pulling gets them where they want to go. Rushing forward to slacken the leash when your puppy pulls: This teaches the puppy that pulling works! When you snap or jerk a leash, you loosen it first, then snap it tight to startle a dog and get their attention. But when used incorrectly and too often, your puppy pulls, feels the leash go slack and then gets yanked back. Not good. We want them to think the pressure on the leash is totally released when they move toward us, so never add any back in although this is usually only a problem when using a long leash to be fair. Well, maybe this works to a degree. But by following the techniques described in this article, the process will be as stress free as possible, and you will have laid the foundations for training your puppy not to pull on the leash later, instead of them learning bad habits that you then have to break. Are you having problems getting your puppy used to his collar and leash? What techniques have your tried? Tell us about your experiences in the comment section below. Helps ease anxiety in their new home. We love using Bully Sticks to help divert these unwanted behaviors. For a list of all the supplies we get for our new service dog puppies check out our New Puppy Checklist on the PuppyInTraining. These tips will also help you to advance your dog so that, eventually, you can trust them to be off the leash in a safe area. Don't release your dog until they can demonstrate knowledge and obedience on the long leash and in many different settings. To begin with, walk them in the house and in the yard. Dogs learn 'contextually and by repetition'. These hints will help you to become the pack leader. Be certain that this is only reason that your dog will follow you. Make time to walk your dog Whether you walk your dog in the morning or evening will be influenced by your program. Whenever you exercise your dog, the walk should allow for 'focused time' and 'free time'. Two leashes will facilitate this. If they are under 12 months old, take some water with you. Also take a back-pack and a treat belt available on Ebay. I recommend no more than thirty minutes of walking in total for a dog under 14 months old as their growth plates are not set until this time. Be careful of overly vigorous activity, particularly if you have an older but playful dog. I don't recommend running for more than very short bursts for the same reason. Healthy hips and elbows are critical for a healthy, active and long life. Use two leashes - a long leash approx 7m and a short leash approx 1m Start your walk with the labrador pup on a short leash. The short leash will help you to direct and guide the dog. This allows you to maintain full control over your dog. Set up your walk for success. Start by getting the dog to sit or at the least be stationary and under your control. As you begin, keep your dog behind your body alignment. Be patient and encourage your dog. Do not show aggressive frustration. This will only cause confusion and fear or aggression. If your dog is not complying, stop and reset. You are the master Walking in front of your dog demonstrates that you are the master or the pack leader. You should be first out the door. The dogs should exit the compound only at your command. This is essential whether you are walking 1, 2 or more dogs. If your dog controls the pace and direction of the walk, they are the pack leader. Your dog should be beside or behind you during the walk. Dogs learn contextually The next two hints are important training essentials. Firstly, labradors learn contextually and their training in not immediately transferable to a new environment. Using the same disciplines and routines, train your dog the same way in different settings. This will entrench your expectations. Correct immediately Secondly, a labrador has about a five second retention of information. After five seconds the dog has lost any association between your assertiveness and their behaviour. If they disobey you, you must correct them within five seconds or not at all. If the dog is disobedient or simply does not understand, reset and start again. The long leash I'm a big fan of the long leash. A long leash will help you to correct bad behaviour at a distance. After a period of training with the short leash, remove it and connect the longer lead. Keep the leash in your hand, releasing it slowly and progressively. As they master this, you can back away while the dog is 'sitting and staying'. Reward your labrador pup with vigorous affection and a treat. After this, you should allow them to wander and sniff around. All this time you will keep your dog on the long leash and under your control. Be sure that the free time is less than their focus time. During the socialisation phase, 8 - 16 weeks, you will need both leashes as you expose your labrador pup to other dogs. As you walk your dog, you will come across small and large dogs that are aggressive. Walking on either leash will give your complete control. And it will ensure safety at all time. You new labrador pup has no innate road sense. Walk them, getting close to roads. Expose them to vehicles so that they do not panic. Reward your dog for good behaviour. Remember that dogs register tones and frequencies, not words. Use higher tones to affirm, reward and encourage. You approval is the greatest reward for a Labrador. Direct eye contact without high vocal affirmation will be interpreted as aggression. Use lower growling tones to reinforce disapproval. Try to avoid 'No' as a command. It is too general and therefore confusing to the dog. Always reward and reinforce obedience to specific commands. Use food treats to begin with, however you must gradually phase them out. Your vocal affirmation and affection should be your longer term goal. As your dog maintains the proper behaviour, reward them with treats. Reward your dog after the walk I recommend that you reward your labrador pup after the walk. Let them have a drink firstly then give them a portion of food that is less than a meal but more than a treat. It will not take long for your dog to anticipate the whole experience. When you appear with the leashes, they will become very enthusiastic. If you adhere to these eight hints and maintain the discipline of your training, you and your dog will value and enjoy the experience. Finally, remember to pick up after your dog. Don't go on a walk without your poop bags on hand! Find a vet you can have confidence in. Pawling Chocolate and Black Labradors. Andorra and Spain I wouldn't use a front-fastening harness for a young puppy. They are generally used for stopping a dog from pulling, but don't help with training. Front fastener tend to either work by tightening around the dog as he pulls, making it uncomfortable to pull, which we'd call an aversive and most of us would choose to avoid. Or they work by preventing the dog from getting traction into the forwards motion, often by turning the dog slightly. If you have a problem with a dog pulling, and either have to have them on lead before they've been trained not to, or if you're physically unable to have the dog pulling you at all due to injury or somesuch, then they're fine. But in the case of a brand new puppy, I'd suggest that they're unnecessary, and you should be focussing on training him to walk without pulling from the get-go, which you can achieve perfectly well on a standard back-fastening harness. Since the puppy has no real weight to put behind it at this stage, you should be able to manage without the mechanisms in a front-fastener. I'd recommend looking at the articles on teaching your puppy to walk on a loose lead and start putting the recommendations into place immediately. Here are some articles that may help:. We may earn money or products from the companies mentioned in this post. Then you get a reality check. Walking nicely on a leash is not an instinctive behavior, and your Lab is just as likely to try and pull you in whatever direction they choose. Until they start getting into their senior years, Labs are excitable, curious, and powerful animals. Labradors are well known as strong leash pullers. But, like any desirable behavior, your dog can learn and you can teach. If your Labrador pulls like a rambunctious plow horse, read on to find out how to get back on the straight and narrow. There are times when a dog will attempt to assert itself as the leader of the pack, and some people believe that pulling is just such an attempt. The simple truth is dogs are overcome with excitement and overwhelmed with sensory input when they get outdoors, especially someplace other than their own backyard. Over stimulation Before long, your dog is so caught up in seeing, smelling, exploring and peeing, that all training goes right out the window. Even the act of pulling itself can be rewarding if your Lab likes the feeling of a little extra exercise. Freedom and autonomy in the great outdoors! Now your dog knows that pulling on the lead pays off in spades. But once the association is made between the leash and going for a walk, it becomes one of the single most exciting objects in the world! Once all four paws are on the floor or the dog is sitting; whatever your preference then move to attach the leash again. If the bad behavior continues, you back off once more. Why leather leashes? Short Practice Sessions A simple way to preserve your patience is to keep the length of your training walks to a minimum. The more time you spend with your dog pulling you along, the more likely you are to become exasperated. Nothing good will come of that for either of you. You need to be in the right frame of mind to convey reinforcement to your dog. A good idea is to choose a short route in your neighborhood, and walk it repeatedly. A familiar walk is still a pleasant one, though considerably less stimulating. Your dog will be less distracted if he sees the same things repeatedly. Burn Off Extra Energy in Advance Dogs in general, and Labradors in particular, have a lot of energy and they need to expend it in some manner. Short walks will not be enough to keep them satisfied, and they may be inclined to try to make up for it by pulling extra hard. Have an exercise session before your training walks to help combat this problem. Have some fun throwing a ball around the yard, or get in a good game of tug-of-war before heading out on the town. I always figured playing toss with a tennis ball was enough, but three things sold me with the Chuck It. You can launch the ball further with less effort. Keep Up the Pace Being a fairly large breed, your Labrador will have no trouble outpacing you without much effort. Reward Good Walking You know from your other training sessions that your Lab loves treats! When the walk is going just the way you want, offer praise and a tasty reward. Do this frequently to keep reinforcing the good behavior. And make sure they are compact and easily chewed treats that can safely be eaten on the go. When your dog starts to pull, you stop walking! If your dog is already proficient at coming when called, even when there are distractions, this may be the method for you. This technique may be difficult for smaller individuals, the elderly, or anyone with a physical disability. Ask your dog to come to you and give the sit command. At this time, resume your walk. If they continue to walk along beside you, repeat your praise word and offer another treat. Keep doing this periodically. Should they start to pull again, come to a stop and repeat the first step. When they pulls towards an object, stop as you did before. Call them back and have them sit. Again, offer the word of affirmation, but do not give a treat. Instead, walk to the item they want to inspect and have let getting to the object be the reward. Load up your pocket with treats, or carry a treat bag on your belt. Keep several in your hand at all times while walking, and replenish from your reserve. Cut them up into smaller pieces to make perfect training treats! Every few seconds, pop a treat in their mouth. Should they start to veer off or get ahead and start pulling, the walk stops. As with the previous method, call your dog back to you and get them to sit. When they do, give praise and then resume the walk, once again with the treats held in front of the nose. After a bit of uninterrupted practice, say a week or so, stop carrying treats in your hand, but have them nearby. Keep offering them frequently. Begin offering treats less frequently; start by giving a reward every 5 steps or so, and then gradually space them out over larger distances. Be aware, this method should only be used if your dog is not wearing a head halter or slip lead. The idea of this technique is to surprise your dog when they reaches the end of the leash. First, start with a verbal warning cue for your dog when they are about to run out of slack. Give praise and a reward as you continue to walk. Keep walking in the opposite direction, and praise your dog as they catch up to you. Once your Lab is back beside you, resume walking in the original direction. Repeat this step as necessary. The idea is to teach your dog that walking too far ahead and pulling leads to an unpleasant sensation, and diverts the walk away from where they want to go. Use this method if positive reinforcement is not having the desired effect. Watch for signs that your dog is under extreme duress; cringing, cowering, yelping or any other outward display of fear or pain are clear indications that this method is not working. Desist immediately and try something else. Collar Tug Like the previous method, this technique also uses a bit of negative reinforcement, and should not be used in conjunction with a slip lead, or a head halter. Again, this should only be tried if positive methods are not proving fruitful. As before, when your dog is approaching the end of the leash, administer a verbal warning. The force of the tug will depend on the size of your dog, and it may need to be repeated before you really get their attention. In the case of my own dog, his neck muscles are far too strong to make this effective, and the same may hold true for your own Lab. Exercise extreme caution with this technique. Choosing a good collar and leash will help as you teach your Lab to walk nicely. The Classic Collar Of course a traditional collar is perfectly acceptable, either with a buckle or snaps. For a selection of classic collars recommended by us, please click here. Harnesses A harness is a good option, especially for anyone who has had difficulty walking a dog using a collar. Many dogs will respond to pressure around their neck by pulling even more in the opposite direction. Pull that one out at parties and impress your friends! Head halters and no-pull harnesses can be very helpful during training. They make your dog easier to control, and discourage pulling almost entirely on their own. Be warned, though, that they should not substitute for actual training if you really want your Labrador to learn to walk on a loose leash. While your dog will walk perfectly well when using this equipment, they are unlikely to repeat this behavior with a traditional collar. Choosing a Leash Make sure you give some thought to what leash to buy. When yours truly bought his first leash, the selection was based on color and not quality, a decision I regretted when my very eager puppy snapped the leash and made a run for it! This gives enough length to give your dog a bit of freedom, but keeps it short enough for you to maintain control and have them close enough to praise and reward. Click here to see a selection of leashes as recommended by us. Things to Avoid No decent dog owner wants to hurt their dog, and yet pain-inflicting devices are all too commonly used for training. As mentioned earlier, negative reinforcement can be helpful if used cautiously and sparingly. However, to use it as your sole method for loose leash training is not acceptable. Choke and prong collars deliver strong doses of pain to a dog in order to deter them from unwanted behavior. It is extremely difficult to control the amount of pain generated during a correcting move with such a collar, and the force delivered invariably exceeds the required amount. It is our very firm belief at Labrador Training HQ and in the dog community in general that these items are cruel and barbaric. Avoid them at all costs. The good news is the repetition can be fun and rewarding. You and your dog will get plenty of exercise and quality time together, and opportunities for socialization and training , too. Labradors are strong and energetic dogs, especially in their youth. They love to get out and explore, and this desire coupled with their devotion to their owners, make loose leash training, well… a walk in the park. Get out and enjoy! Are you having trouble with your Lab pulling on leash? What have you done to help get your dog to stop pulling? Tell us your experiences in the comment section below. A very good, 4-part guide with steps to follow to train a loose leash walk. I highly recommend checking this out! You might want to try some yourself? Helps ease anxiety in their new home. We love using Bully Sticks to help divert these unwanted behaviors. For a list of all the supplies we get for our new service dog puppies check out our New Puppy Checklist on the PuppyInTraining. Basic Dog Training How to Teach a Puppy to Walk on Leash The key to teaching a dog to walk on leash is taking it slow—and using lots of positive reinforcement. She is passionate about human-animal interactions, having founded the nonprofit Animal Assisted Professionals, which provides animal-assisted interventions, including animal-assisted therapy and activities. She has held roles in the pet industry that have included service and therapy canine training, rescue and shelter management, veterinary care, and animal behavioral consultation. In her free time she is passionate about providing animal-assisted interventions, training and preparing therapy dog teams, and spending time with her wonderful husband, charismatic daughter, two glorious dogs, and two very fluffy cats. Daily Paws' Editorial Guidelines Published on February 12, Whether you just brought home that tiny, fluffy bundle of puppy joy or you recently found your perfect canine match at the local shelter, every dog-owner relationship involves a great deal of time and effort dedicated to teaching important life lessons and skills. Our dogs are not born with the ability to comprehend human words and they certainly don't come equipped with the ability to walk nicely on leash. Walking on a leash is something every dog should know how to do. Not only does it allow them to journey about with you, their favorite human, but it also keeps them safe and protects other dogs and people, too. It doesn't matter if you live in the city or enjoy the quiet country life, your dog should always be walked on leash. Teaching them to walk by your side takes time, but with patience and positive reinforcement , you and your dog will be enjoying daily walks together soon. Teach a Marker A marker or bridging stimulus is a sound or hand signal that pinpoints the exact moment your dog did something that earned them a reinforcer a treat. A clicker is a great example of a marker and a conditioned reinforcer. If you don't have a clicker you can use a consistent word like "yes" or "good," or a hand signal like a thumbs up. But pick one and stick to it. Mark the behavior the second you see it. The more accurate and quick your mark is, the more effective your teaching becomes. Build a Positive Association Before he goes off on an outdoor adventure with you, your dog needs to feel comfortable and enjoy wearing walking equipment. This includes his collar, leash, and possibly a body harness. Be sure you are in a quiet, non-distracting area of your home like your living room. Start by giving your dog time to get used to wearing each item. Put his collar on while he plays in the house or goes outside to potty and each time you put it on, mark and reinforce by giving your dog a treat. Attach the leash to the collar for short moments throughout the day, being sure to mark and treat him as he moves a few steps while wearing it. If you plan to use a body harness , introduce it slowly, providing treats and praise as you place it over his head and connect the straps. Teach Your Dog to Give Attention It may seem as though you should just start walking with your dog but before you can move, you need to make sure he is actually paying attention, otherwise he may pull and dart about. Be patient and wait for your pup to offer you this is capturing even a tiny moment of eye contact or look at you—then immediately mark and reinforce. Repeat this frequently so that your pup understands looking at you equals treats. You can add a "cue" for attention, too. Say "look" or "eyes" right before your dog is about to look at you and then mark, reinforce, and praise. Start Moving by Backing Up This may seem counterintuitive, but the backward steps are a great way to begin moving without encouraging your dog to pull. With your dog wearing his collar and leash, take a few steps backward and as he follows you mark, reinforce, and praise. Gradually increase the number of steps backward you take. Start with two or three steps and then turn to walk forward two or three steps. Mark and reinforce him if he stays by your side. Practice With "Come" Teaching your dog to "come" while on leash is a great way to help prevent future issues or pulling or forging ahead. It also gives a good opportunity to teach your dog to come on cue without the risk of him running away. With your pup wearing his collar and leash, toss a treat just a few steps away from you. After he eats the treat and turns back around to face you, say "come" and quickly mark and reinforce the moment he moves towards you. Repeat this so it becomes a game of tossing a treat and then turning around to come to you for another one. Practice Taking a Few Steps on Leash Outside Once your dog has mastered the basics of leash training inside, you can begin to move outside, but be sure to find a place that has few distractions. Your backyard or garage are good options. Practice walking just a few steps and stopping and asking for attention. Mark and reinforce for moments of nice leash walking every few steps while in motion and anytime you stop, wait for their attention and then reinforce, too. Don't rush it! Baby steps, baby steps, baby steps. Gradually Increase Distance Slowly begin to move from your home to the neighborhood. Begin by walking the distance of just a house or two and gradually increase the distance as your dog masters the skill. Be sure to mark and reinforce constantly until your dog becomes better and better at this set of skills. It takes time to get good at coordinating the mark and treat delivering while moving, but after a few days of practice rest assured you will be a pro. Keep with it and stay positive! Remember that puppies have short attention spans despite their seemingly endless amounts of energy. Don't expect a young dog to walk long distances with you until they are more mature and grown. Be patient and allow your dog to sniff, to pee on trees and bushes doggie email , and to enjoy being outside with you. Walkies should always be fun, not a chore nor a time for perfect heeling. Was this page helpful? How to leash train a Labrador. Labradors can pull like trains Everywhere you go, you will see dogs on leashes. Others have a rather different style. You will see their owners, hurrying along with one arm stretched desperately out in front. A stressed hand grips an outstretched leash, and at the end of it a dog fighting for air. Front feet scrabbling at the pavement, this dog is intent on choking himself! One way to help resolve this unpleasant situation, is to teach your dog to walk on a loose leash. And you can do that by waiting them out. Where you just stand still and refuse to move forwards while the lead is tight. But this can take a very long time with a determined puller. Please avoid retractable leashes. Make sure the leash is attached to a body harness , which is much safer for a strong pulling dog. Later on, your dog will not need frequent feeding to maintain his loose leash, but to begin with generosity is the key. An event marker A clicker is used to accurately tell your dog exactly when she did what you wanted her to. It is a very helpful aid in the training process. But you can equally use your voice. If you have to drive your dog to a deserted car park or quiet street so be it. A hard surface tarmac or paved is ideal is helpful as it enables the dog to quickly find and pick up the treats. How often to train your dog Set aside at least ten minutes for this training and do it at least twice a day. Three or four times a day is even better. Try not to miss a day, at least for the first week How to leash train a Labrador Take your dog to your chosen training location and attach the lead to his collar or harness Step 1: Start Set off walking forwards Step 2: Stop As soon as your dog to gets to the end of the leash this may be almost immediately , stand still Step 3: Wait Now wait for the dog to give you some attention. Drop a treat just behind you for him to collect as he reaches you. Start walking forwards Step 1 again as soon as he has gathered his treat from the ground. The dog will probably then charge past you to the end of the leash. You know what to do. STOP walking. Make like a tree. Pause, gather your thoughts. Rinse and repeat the steps from 1 through 4. Make a little kissy noise with your mouth for example. As soon as he looks at you drop a little food on the ground then turn away from him. The idea is that when he eats the food he will be in the right position just behind you, and that this position will become attractive to him. Start associating a kissy noise with food, at home, in the garden, and elsewhere. Your rewards may need to be upgraded to something more attractive and smelly. He should be hungry and eager to eat. Making progress with loose leash walking The first few sessions will be a bit boring. There will be waiting, and hanging about. Hang on in there, you need to be determined. Just focus on the fact that you have simply had enough of letting your dog drag you around. It may take three or four sessions before the dog figures out there is no point in charging past you, starts to pay you more attention, and watch where you are walking. But these occasions will become fewer and further between. And you will be able to walk longer distances and get to where you want to go, without stopping and changing direction every two seconds. All you have to do is stand firm when your dog gets it wrong, and reward him when he gets it right. You can do this. It takes a little patience, but you can do it. Introducing distractions to loose leash walking Just like any other skill you teach your dog, you need to start in a distraction free area. But there comes a point, when the dog has really grasped what you are teaching him, when you need to introduce some distractions into your training. Dogs eventually have to learn to walk past other dogs, people and the neighborhood cat, without charging about like lunatics. It helps to start with any distractions at a distance and to set up training exercises where it is easy for the dog to win because you have some control over the other participants. You can do this with friends or at a training club. Write it down At the end of each session, I suggest you make a note of how you got on. Rewarding good behavior As your dog gets better at walking on a loose lead, it becomes tempting to forget the rewards altogether. This is a sure way to see your efforts undone. Always carry a few treats on you when you are out with your dog. Reward him from time to time when he is being good. He deserves it. Before you learn how to leash train a Labrador This is a simple exercise designed to help people who are struggling with a dog that pulls them around on a lead. This is because every forward movement your dog makes on the end of a tight leash is a reward for him an reinforces the pulling behavior. There are various ways to tackle this You can drive your dog to his exercise area You can stop exercising the dog outside of your own garden whilst you train him to walk to heel You can use an anti-pull device whilst you are not training him Just remember, you can teach an old dog new tricks. And if you stay calm and patient, your Lab will get there in the end too.
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Pet insurance reimburses you for out-of-pocket veterinary costs and provides a safety net should the worst happen to your Poodle. As purebred dogs, Poodles are more prone to genetic health problems, like bloat or hip dysplasia, which can quickly become expensive to treat. Final Considerations Poodle puppies grow into elegant, proud dogs who are true aristocrats of the dog kingdom. We know how much your Poodle pup means to you and that they deserve the best! Give yourself peace of mind today when you use Pawlicy Advisor to compare personalized pet insurance quotes from the top Poodle pet insurance companies. Do you want to find the best pet insurance? Let's analyze your pet's breed, age, and location to find the right coverage and the best savings. Analyze My Pet About Pawlicy Advisor The pet insurance marketplace endorsed by veterinarians, at Pawlicy Advisor we make buying the best pet insurance easier. Proper care for the Poodle will involve many aspects that will all work in combination to maintain excellent health and promote learning and good behavioral habits. It is important to establish a foundation of proper care during the puppy stage that will carry over throughout the Poodle's life. We will discuss: The items that you should have to care for a Poodle puppy Details on the 5 most important tips for proper care - Feeding, house training, offering the right amount of exercise, grooming and how to offer a healthy environment. Toy Poodles and Mini's will be puppies for the 1st year; standards mature at a somewhat slower rate and are considered to be puppies until the age of 2 years old. During this time, much care is needed for both physical growth and mental development. Bringing your new Poodle home is not as simple as just picking up your new family member from the breeder. Good care involves planning ahead. It helps to have all needed items well in advance so that you can focus on the puppy without having to rush out for a needed supply items. One of the most important elements to be aware of is that no matter what the puppy has been fed since he or she began eating solid food, you should have the exact same brand on hand. Quickly switching foods can cause upset stomach and other issues…and in the case of a puppy it can be the cause of hypoglycemia. A slow change must be made. If you opt to go with a different brand or to home cook, have enough of the 'old' food on hand for several weeks, as well as the 'new' so that that you can make gradual changeover. A quality dog bed — A new puppy will feel stress going to even the best of new homes. This is why making sure that you have a nice, soft, comfortable dog bed is important. You should show your Poodle that this is the area in which he can rest, sleep or just get away from noise when things seem to overwhelming. If you will be leaving your puppy home alone during the day, it is best to have the bed placed in the area where he will be staying. A gated off section of a room or inside a canine playpen works well. The entrance to this can be left open when you are home with your puppy can of course, closed off when you are away. In this way, the puppy will become accustomed to the area. If you will be home with your puppy, place this in the corner of room that is frequently used but not chaotic. Dogs like to have their own quiet spot, but not feel isolated. Walking and ID accessories — Along with a retractable leash and a collar for ID purposes, it is highly recommended to have a harness for your puppy. Toy Poodles no matter what the age and all Mini and Standard puppies should have on a harness and not a collar when they are on a leash. When a leash is connected to a dog collar, this can create too much tension on the neck, which can cause collapsed trachea. The trachea windpipe is protected by rings of cartilage…when this happens, those rings collapse in, causing pain and breathing problems. These can be purchased at a pet supply store and come in many unique and interesting designs so that your Poodle always looks stylish. If you are not sure which harness would be best for your Poodle puppy, you may wish to look to both 'Accessories' and 'Clothing- Harness' in the Poodle Specialty Shoppe. A Car Safety Seat - Long ago cars did not even have seat belts for humans. But now, of course, we all know how many lives they save. The very same is true for dogs. Even if you are a conscientious driver, you cannot be in control of those who are driving near you. Be sure to secure your Poodle into a canine car safety seat. All it takes is 1 second of you having to quickly brake for your Poodle to go sliding off of the seat, completely unprotected. These are also great for dogs that are prone to car sickness. A raised booster seat will assist a puppy in being able to look out of the window which reduces motion sickness. However, choosing high quality toys that can stand up to continual chewing and hold a puppy's interest is better. Puppies are full of energy and filled with curiosity; having a good supply of toys at all times will be very helpful. Puppies that are in the teething phase will be experiencing discomfort and teething toys will help to sooth sore gums and offer a chewing outlet See also: Poodle teething Grooming Supplies - Poodle care certainly involves proper grooming. This includes nails, dewclaws, bathes, drying, wrapping, trimming, clipping and topknots. See also: Bathing a Poodle Clothes - Particularly for tiny toy Poodles, protection against the elements should be implemented as needed. During cold, icy winters the use of canine shoes or paw wax helps protect paw pads from ice melt chemicals and aids with traction. A sweater or cute vest can keep a small Poodle puppy from becoming chilled. During hot months, shoes help protect sensitive paws from hot surfaces. Bowls - Plastic bowls often contain heavy dyes that can cause staining on a Poodle's coat. In addition, tiny scratches that easily develop in plastic bowls can also harbor dangerous bacteria. It is best to use stainless steel or ceramic bowls for both food and water. Dishes should shallow so that a puppy can easily reach both food and water without bumping their heads or straining to reach. Toys and Mini's may like raised bowls. However, Standards - who are prone to bloat- should only eat and drink from bowls that are at floor level. Free feed until 3 months old leaving food out at all times and then give your puppy 3 meals per day plus healthy snacks. Please choose your food wisely; cheaper foods with fillers will not offer the proper nutrition needed to aid with the rapid growth that is associated with the puppy phase. You will find that if you reserve snacks and treats as rewards for training, housebreaking and command training will go smoother. Read more: Feeding a Poodle 2- Start house training right away, keeping in mind that it is your commitment to the process that will bring about success. Generally, housebreaking takes 2 to 3 months. If your Poodle puppy will be expected to use an outdoor area, do not focus too much on indoor training when the pup is home along, since it is difficult for puppies to learn 2 different methods. Do keep in mind that young puppies should not be over-exercised since it can interfere with growth plate development; however a daily 20 to 30 minute per walk is perfect. Walks allow a puppy to release pent up energy, it expands their view of the world and is a good staring point for socialization techniques and learning proper heeling. Poodles are generally very active dogs. Aside from a walk each day, this breed loves to run , jump and show off their agility capabilities. Playing catch, Frisbee or training your Poodle to jump through hoops will keep them in good health, both physically and mentally. See also: Poodle Exercise Requirements 4- Begin a routine of grooming and care. While many puppies will balk at the idea of being brushed or having teeth cleaned, doing these tasks on a regular basis allows a puppy to become accustomed to being touched and taken care of. Taking care of the teeth during the puppy stage is important since dental hygiene will affect the adult teeth that have not yet erupted. Read more: Poodle dental care 5- Limit stress, focus on fun. One of the most important elements of Poodle care is to offer a loving, safe environment. Puppies and dogs are sensitive to their owner's moods and the atmosphere of the house in general. Puppies can become easily stressed in noisy, chaotic homes. Puppies should be given a designated area to retreat and rest if feeling overwhelmed. Often, a gated off area that is secured when a pup is home alone, but the entrance is open when owners are home works best. Speak to your pup in a pleasant voice and remember that positive reinforcement for good behavior works much better than scolding for bad behavior. Take time to puppy proof the home, clearing the floors of any small items and stowing away shoes and other objects to higher ground. This should be done before bringing a puppy home but also on a regular basis. See also: What it means when a Poodle puppy shakes - If a Poodle is suddenly shivering, you'll want to look to these top reasons. Poodle Winter Care - Everything you need to know about caring for your Poodle during the wintertime. Other Articles: Apricot Poodles - This is a super popular coat color. Details and photos. Black Poodles - Another gorgeous color. Poodle tear stains - Putting to rest the old myths on what works. A list of the most effective at-home treatments to remove stubborn stains. Poodle hair tangles - Due to the nature of the curly coat, tangles are not uncommon yet should be removed as soon as possible with a method that does not affect hair growth. Are You a Member Yet? When you sign up to become a Member of the site, this allows you to receive a friendly notice when new pages of information have been added. Always something to help keep your Poodle happy and healthy. All rights reserved. We are a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for us to earn fees by linking to Amazon. Share Us. We will pause our breeding program until futher notice. Your puppy can remember which behaviors he is allowed and where and when he is fed. He can even begin house-training and start becoming used to being groomed. He is ready to leave his mother and littermates to go home with you, fully capable of taking his place in the family. The following list will help you know what to expect from your puppy has he develops. Most puppies will gain or grow rapidly between birth and 6 months of age. How much they grow or gain will depend on their breed, diet, and ultimate adult size. Growth is generally steady until they attain their adult size. You need to build trust with your puppy. Don't ignore crying but address the cause for the crying with attention and care. Touch is the first sense a dog develops and remains a powerfully important sense throughout his life. The entire body, including the paws, is covered with touch-sensitive nerve endings. Although they can see and hear, their sense of vision and hearing is quietly maturing. They are also developing their general sense of smell. This means you will need to take them out at least every 3 hours to get them "housebroken". A general rule of thumb for how long puppies can hold their bladders: one hour for every month of age, plus one. So if a puppy is two months old, he can wait up to three hours. Although capable of learning, they have a very short attention span. Keep a variety of simple toys for your puppy to investigate. He will also play rough and tumble with his littermates and will gradually begin learning to play by himself. It is extremely important that puppies socialize with people at this age. Include lots of people of varying ages, sizes and shapes to interact positively with your pup. Some puppies have a brief phase of "fear" at this time as they may respond to noises or new objects. Expose your puppy to new objects and allow them to investigate on their own terms until they are comfortable with the new situation. After all, most puppies just learned to walk at 3 weeks of age and run at 5 weeks of age, which was just a few short weeks ago. They are developing their gross motor skills that help them to run, play, and "hunt". Their fine motor skills will come later. Puppies also learn to jump up at this stage. This is a normal behavior that can turn into an undesirable behavior when the puppy reaches adult-hood and jumps on every visitor. You can begin correcting your puppy and giving him positive reinforcement for good behavior. Get your puppy used to the brush and comb by gently using them on him for very short sessions that are kept positive. Don't hold your puppy down to be brushed or combed if he does not want to be. Their muzzle is getting longer but overall they have the characteristics of a puppy. The ears may begin to stand up in some breeds. The rest is spent eating, playing and eliminating.