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Whelping means the process where a female dog gives birth to puppies. And a whelping box is a container or box designed to keep the puppies safe and warm. Having a whelping box makes it convenient for the mother to give birth comfortably. Female dogs are very protective of their puppies. Hence the nesting box offers a sense of security. Female dogs need assistance and a safe place to give birth. Hence, a whelping pen would be of great help. If your dog is about to give birth, it would be better to get a box or make it yourself. For a small dog like Pomeranian, you can convert a large card box into a whelping pen. You can put your creativity into the process and make a nesting box for your dog. If your dog is big, she might probably give birth to a large number of puppies. Hence, the size of the box should be large enough to fit the puppies and the mother. Furthermore, you can get the box from a pet store if creativity and DIY are not your forte. Here are some of the factors that you need to consider: The sides of the pen should be high enough that can keep the puppies safe for three weeks. Also, make sure that the mother can move to and fro freely. The size of the pen should be spacious enough for your dog and puppies. It should have enough space where the mother can feed her pups comfortably. In addition, it should allow them to move freely. It will help to keep the pups warm when the mom is not around. These are the factors that you need to consider while getting a nesting box. It helps the mother and the pups in the long run. You would notice the growth within the first few weeks. They can move and stand up over the sides of the whelping pen. By three weeks, they become mobile and able to move towards the edge of the nesting box. However, before it reaches that stage, you should take care of it diligently. Some pups would go astray and get lost. Hence, getting a box with proper height is essential. Sometimes the mother has to go out of the box for a nature call or food. The box offers a sense of security both to the dog owner and the mother. When the puppies are born, they have no control over their body temperature. So, while the mom is out, the box will keep them warm. However, you have to make sure that the bottom of the box is covered with a soft blanket. By three weeks, they will start moving, and some puppies might even get out of the box. So, the real chaos begins when they reach three weeks. It would be best if you were more careful than ever. How to Keep the Nesting Box Clean? Taking care of puppies can be quite tiring. Once the puppies are born safely in the box, it would be better to change the sheet or the beddings. The mother will take care of it. However, from the second to the third week, the real work starts. It will help if you make sure that the box is clean. While cleaning the box, you can keep the pups temporarily in a warm blanket. You need to replace the sheet or newspaper at least twice or thrice per day. However, keeping the box clean prevents the puppies from possible bacterial infections. It also helps to keep the puppies clean. You should see that the nesting box is clean and dry. So, like a responsible dog owner , make sure that the box is clean and warm. Changing the Whelping Box to Other Areas Once the puppies have passed the first week, you place the box in other areas. It will help them to get used to the new smell and sounds. However, make sure that the place is quiet and warm. Some kids would like to hold the pups, which would be too early and maybe dangerous. During the first two weeks, puppies are pretty delicate. So, it would be best to keep far away from children. The first three weeks are a crucial moment for you and the pups. The puppies are in their developing stage, and they need a quiet and calm environment to grow. So, you should make sure that puppies are kept safe and warm. They would be too young to take the regular food and would cause indigestion. But you can keep water for the mother. They get very thirsty while taking care of the puppies. She requires good protein and energy to keep the pups fed through her milk. You can place the food in the water once they can move or walk. However, make sure that the food is easily digestible. Also, puppies tend to eat food without a limit. So, you should give the food moderately. Overeating can cause indigestion and vomiting. Hence, it would help if you were careful not to overfeed them. It offers a sense of security to the mother and the dog owners as well. Having a nesting box helps to keep the puppies from going astray. The first three weeks are crucial for the puppies to grow and develop healthily. Having the right size of the whelping box can help both the puppies and the mother move freely. It allows the mother to breastfeed the puppies comfortably. If your dog is about to give birth, it would be better to arrange a whelping box. It offers safety and assurance to both the mother and puppies. These links are affiliate links, so if you do end up using the links, I will earn a commission. Dog Food: Every dog needs to eat correctly, and finding the best food for your dog can be challenging, as the market is absolutely flooded with products. During that first three weeks we weigh the puppies daily, trim their toenails every days, and put new collars on them every days as their growth is so rapid. The standard puppies are weighed on a regular digital scale and should gain an ounce a day at first and then up to ounces daily, whereas miniature puppies gain in a tenth of an ounce to start with and then an ounce or two a day. Jenny with litter at birth in 4' x 4' whelping box with lots of absorbent padding. Tasy in her "birthing bed" with the first three pups of the TS5 litter "Tasy" moves into her "doll crib" after the puppies are born - shown here at 3 weeks of age. We find it essential that the dam have food and water inside her whelping box the first week, however once she is willing to leave the box for short periods of time it can be set just outside the box, otherwise she will not eat and drink enough to provide all the milk needed for the puppies well being, and if you are not supplementing with goats milk, your puppies can suffer from dehydration. The standard dam has to produce almost two gallons of milk a day by the time a litter of puppies is two weeks of age. That's twice the amount a good dairy goat gives, who is at least double the dam's body weight. We find that goat milk, canned or fresh, is a much better supplement than the commercial formulas, as we have better weight gains and hardly ever have diarrhea in our puppies. If you have more than 8 puppies it is also essential that the dam's tail area and vulva be washed each time she goes out to go, as since there are not enough teats to go around there will always be a puppy trying to latch onto the vulva. The puppies can pick up bacteria and worm eggs, and a one celled organism called coccidiosis in this way which can lead to diarrhea. Mandy with AM3 Litter x Sterling at 1 week old. We practice what we call "giving the puppies an opportunity to learn" as a puppy raising method. We whelp the puppies in one corner of the living room where we have easy access to the box. We have found that moving the whelping box or puppy pen set-up on a weekly basis exposes the puppies to new scents and air currents and increases their adaptability and development by about two weeks, especially compared to puppies who are raised in the same corner until they go to their new homes. This is the first stage of their house breaking. Within hours the smartest puppies of the litter, barely able to crawl, will crawl out to use the paper and then crawl back into the whelping box. Within a few days the entire litter will usually be using the paper. Supplementing the puppies these first weeks gives us a good chance to play with the puppies feet, and get them used to their faces being handled for grooming, however even when we don't supplement we take time daily to handle every puppy and get them used to different textures, smells, and having their feet, faces, ears and tails handled. At three weeks of age when the ears open we start their cereal feeding, and use a soft clap with a "come, babies" command each time they are fed. This leads to the next step in the transition of removing the second box and the addition of a paper lined exercise pen to the whelping box at four weeks of age. At this time we start walking the puppies outside about every two hours from AM to PM. During this time ,the 4th-5th week, we teach them some basic commands - "in", "out", "potty outside", "walk", "watch", and continuing with their "come" command. Once they have understanding of these basic commands we then take them out to an outside play yard, regardless of the weather. It's really important to have this set-up close to an outside door if possible, or to use sections of an exercise pen to make an aisleway directly outdoors. Puppies can be carried outdoors, however their "potty outside" is learned much faster if they walk out the door in tune to the "out" command and the "potty outside" command at the same time. Usually within two days my standard puppies have quit having messes on the paper and are actually asking to go "out" - often at AM at this stage, and I do get up to accommodate them as this speeds their training amazingly, and I have a lot less mess to deal with - and less dirty crates when that time comes along. You can see that I do sleep within hearing of the puppies - usually until those we are continuing training with for their new families are weeks old. TS5 Miniature Litter - 2nd day of cereal feeding and 1st trip outside to the "big" world. We also start the grooming training at 4 weeks of age - starting with a bath with a soft water spray in a utility tub, and using a soft flow warm air dryer and a slicker brush - brushing the coat up the body toward the head, and up the legs toward the back as it dries. We always groom on a table, or the washer or dryer, or a counter - this is essential in getting the puppies used to being groomed on a grooming table and getting over any tendency toward the fear of heights. We cuddle them in our arms on the table to help them feel loved and secure, and to build their confidence level. We try to take pictures at birth, day old individual pictures, then every week thereafter for their new families, and for our albums. We also try to take litter shots as well at the various stages. I find that special touches add a lot of enjoyment, both for us raising the puppies, and for our families who are kept in the "link" of their puppy growing from infancy to toddler weeks. A Tasy x Promise Puppy before his first grooming and after his first grooming. My, oh my, what a difference!! We also start the worming program at four weeks of age - and this is really essential if you occasionally have a puppy that coughs after feeding, or vomits back up milk or cereal. Round worms are the one type of worm that the puppies can get in utero, and they grow as fast as the puppies. A heavy case of worms can often mimic other serious conditions in young puppies. It is also essential to use a low dosage of wormer in cases of heavy infestation, and at times give the puppy a few drops of oil by mouth, and possibly even an enema with a few drops of oil to help pass the worms. We use pyrantel pamoate for our first series of wormings. It is essential to worm every days until no worms are seen - these worms look like spaghetti - and once you see a litter of puppies pass them you never forget them. The wormer works in about six hours and is very effective. We have a computer generated health record that we complete on each puppy, and note all the worming's on it and on the litter weight records as well. Once the worming has been done, and if the teeth are coming in on the entire litter we start adding softened and mashed with potato masher kibble to the puppies cereal mixture - gradually reducing the rice baby cereal. During the next two weeks we gradually start adding cooked rice, cooked oatmeal, scrambled eggs, cottage cheese, ground apple and carrot, and a supplement Green Vibrance which has microbials in it to their soft feed. As soon as the puppies are able to eat dry kibble well and not just play with it we gradually reduce the soft feedings to AM and PM. The puppies often prefer dry kibble during times of heavy teething, however dry kibble no matter how well promoted does not meet all of their nutritional needs. Also the more organically chemical, steroid, and low grade antibiotic free a puppy can be fed, the better for its health and longevity. We keep our puppies on microbials their whole life as this keeps their intestinal system in optimal health - they absorb more nutrients, they produce less fecal material, they are less prone to other bacterial infections, they don't have smelly gas, they are less prone to bloat typical in a number of large breeds , they have better pigmentation as a result of absorbing more nutrients. We have also found that since taking this approach to diet that puppy and show coats on adults are more luxurious. As you can see their fourth week involves a lot of changes for the puppies. At six weeks of age we start the weaning process - although most "mothers" have already started it. A poodle "mom" is the most devoted creature ever the first week or two, but after that usually reclaims part of her own life to be with her human family. She will return to the whelping box every few hours to take care of her puppies needs, but other than that spends her time on a blanket or pad outside the box. Using a higher powered water spray, a higher powered table dryer, and if the coat is still thin enough a palm pro clipper again to clip the face, feet, tummy and tail. At this time Mishelle also adds standing the puppy properly on the table and does the first scissoring around the tail head and up the rump - as much to get the puppy used to the sound and feel of the scissors as because there is that much coat to scissor off. This is also when we try to take the first pictures of the puppies in a nice stance to send to everyone. This also helps to train the puppy for standing on the table which benefits when we do the conformation evaluations at 8 weeks of age. Puppies fearful on the table are very difficult to assess. This is also essential for miniature puppies that are going to be shown. It's very sad when a miniature is put on a table in the show ring for the judges inspection, and is fearful. Just minutes a day on a table, being encouraged to stand and be touched, can make a remarkable difference in just a week. A Maddy x Calvin puppy at 6 weeks of age after her 2nd grooming Six weeks is also when we remove the whelping box, as the mother now just gets in with the puppies about 4 times a day and either sits or stands to nurse them. She also starts to regurgitate her feedings for the puppies at this stage. The teeth are starting to come all the way in at this time, and the puppies will start sparring, and at times will really yelp. They learn at this stage not to bite each other too hard, and this is the first step to them learning not to bite humans too hard. We often have families who want to get their poodle puppies at this age, especially if they are going to training in agility. We do not allow any puppies to go to their new homes until they are weeks of age, as we feel that they need the "sibling rivalry" stage to learn aggressive and defensive behavior - which is learned by their interplay with each other. Many of our poodles go to homes with runners, and I can't tell you how many times they have had to defend their owners from aggressive dogs of other breeds, and always successfully. You never know when your poodle may have to come to your defense, and the maneuvers they learn as puppies at this age are the foundation for their defensive techniques, increase their alertness, and the speed of their thinking and their reactivity time. I love watching the puppies develop their skills during playtime at this stage. It is their transition from infancy to toddlers. It is also at six weeks that we remove the whelping box replacing it with two small crates without the gates on. Our favorite crates are the Furrari's, as they just snap together, and the gates can be opened from either side and simply lifted off for this stage of training. The first night all the puppies will crowd into one small crate - then I will hear them in the middle of the night groaning and grumbling, and in the morning the puppies will be divided between the two crates. That day we add a third small crate, and go through the same process - which we repeat until there are two puppies per crate. We never put the gates on at this stage, just allow the puppies the freedom to sleep in or out of the crates, and to play with them. We estimate that a poodle puppy develops 21 years in it's first year. From infancy to toddler, to preschool, to kindergarten, to pre-adolescent, to adolescent, to pre-teen, to teenager, to post teen, and early twenties. Their intelligence is equivalent to that of many humans, and the learning of human vocabulary in a standard poodle is amazing. They are a joy to work with and to train, many almost training themselves. At this point we start giving the puppies rawhide chew bones to help with their teeth cutting, the cardboard rolls from toilet paper, paper towels, tape rolls, and small boxes that they can pack around, tear up and destroy. Much like a toddler builds a stack of bricks and then knocks it down destructive stage so also does a puppy need to go through this stage. So we give them things that don't cost anything, that are light weight, and the right size around for a puppy jaw to pick up. They love it. We also start giving the puppies soft and hard toys to play with, and also try to observe which puppies in the litter are water lovers - they play in the water and empty the container almost as fast as we can fill it. We often get asked for puppies that like water by families that boat, or live on rivers or lakes, or on house boats. We start watching closely for the different types of personalities that the puppies have, how they relate to each other, to new situations, to new people, to other animals they come in contact with. Those that are more adventuresome, more curious, more courageous, etc. We are also watching for activity levels and how they move. It is also at weeks that we take the puppies to the back yard to play - as they are then big enough to be taught to go up and down steps. We have closed back steps, and open backed steps like condos and the steps at the air cargo depots for them to learn on. This can be quite a challenge to some, and we usually have to delay this training with the miniatures for a couple of more weeks when they are a bit bigger. They are so proud of themselves when they achieve success in going up and down the steps, even though it is just three steps - and will run up and down just for the joy of it. In the back yard they also learn to drink from an automatic waterer, so that they don't fear the hissing sound as it refills. Having nice clean feet, faces, and tail head and rump helps us to evaluate the puppies much better, and they will score better when all can be seen and evaluated. We do not give the puppies any treats prior to testing, nor do we do any actual crate training in closed crates. At this age the puppies get their first bath in the grooming tub with a harder spray of water instead of in the utility tub. The Force dryer is used for the first time, and the Andis or Oster clippers. This is also the clipping that helps us to determine the color that the puppies might end up as - blues and silvers are born black, silver beige and cafe-au-lait can be born very dark brown, light apricots that are going to cream out - we study the nose, feet, heels, and under the tail and neck for signs of color change. Tasy x Promise Pup - Black - at 8 weeks! A Mandy x Sterling Pup - Silver - at 8 weeks. Silvers and blues are born black and change gradually - starting with the muzzle and feet We try to schedule temperament testing 16 tests and conformation evaluations a three page form using AKC breed requirements, International breed requirements, and Puppy Puzzle testing at 8 weeks minus or plus three days, as this is the most accurate time for assessing conformation before the puppy starts its rapid growth spurts. This is at times a little early for temperament testing, however as so many families want their puppies at 8 weeks of age, it is necessary to do this before the litter starts to go to new homes. Often our entire litters are reserved before they are even born, or at least by the time they are 6 weeks of age, and this helps us to match puppies and their capabilities and personalities and temperament to the homes they are going into, especially the puppies that are shipped across the United States. This also means asking our prospective families for lots of details about their home style, their activities, other pets or animals in or around their homes, and what they want to do with their puppy as an adult. We also help families at this point to decide the best age of puppy to suit their lifestyle, as many families in todays age have difficulty getting the time those first weeks to house train a young puppy. The weekly cost covers food, treats, training, vaccinations and wormings. Temperament testing is beneficial, although there are those that disagree. It is done in a strange place by a strange person. It's purpose is to note the natural instincts and adaptability of the young puppies, and our families have found our assessments to be pretty accurate as their puppies have developed. The disadvantage of testing at 8 weeks versus 12 weeks, is that puppies can be conceived over a ten day period. The gestation period is days, with all of the body development being in the first 50 days, and the weight gain being in the last days. If the bitch whelps according to the first puppy conceived, then the last puppy or puppies conceived may not have had much weight gain - however due to genetics it will not always be the smallest puppies. When we do temperament testing we also try to be aware of which puppies opened eyes first and last, which had teeth coming in first and last - as these can be indicative of which puppies in the litter are the oldest and the youngest - as the psychological development can also be different, with the thinking processes of the youngest not being quite as developed as the thinking processes of the gestationally oldest puppies. In temperament testing we are looking at social skills, inanimate object retrieving instincts, sensitivity testing, chase response, bird retrieving instincts, perseverance and motivation. These help to determine which puppies might be best suited as companions, service and therapy candidates, agility and obedience prospects, those with "bird" instincts, and very important today those with good search and rescue and tracking instincts. Conformation evaluations are where we literally take a puppies body structure apart and put it back together again - all on paper. We are looking for the few puppies in a litter that are the most correct by breed specifications in bone structure. As companions for runners, horse back riders, hikers, bikers, etc. Most of our standard puppies, after 10 years of breeding are quite structurally correct - however we try to match structural correctness, temperament and personality to the needs of a family. To be a pick of the litter puppy it must score high in all three areas. At times a structurally correct puppy may not have the best temperament for competitive events, and a senior family doesn't need a puppy with a high working drive. When we complete the testing we vaccinate each of the puppies and tattoo them with their individual identification number - that designates their dam, her litter number, and the number of puppy within the litter - in their left ear. This tattoo must be read and entered in the medical records of the puppy by the families veterinarian at the time of the "well puppy check" within 10 days of receiving the puppy for our 2 year from date of birth guarantee to go into effect. As soon as the testing is completed we start crate training the puppies. The first night two puppies are put into a crate with the gate on, and given 3 small treats. They are cuddled before being put into the crate, and we use the "in" command which they are used to. When they are taken out in the morning they are hugged and cuddled again, and given their "go potty outside" command as we take them "out" the front door. The second night they are crated individually, and are also crated during the day for short periods of time, to get them used to taking "naps" in their crates. They are always given three tiny biscuits when we want them in their crates, and usually within three days they compete to see who can get in the crates first and turn around for their treats. Usually at this age the puppies will crate from approximately PM to about AM without having accidents in their crates, however I do get up in the middle of the night and let them out if someone gets really fussy. In hot summer weather they at times need out during the night to get a drink just as much as they need out to go potty. We always make their last soft feeding of the day by PM, so that they have plenty of time to evacuate before bedtime. Remember poodle puppies are very smart, and if they get me up several nights in a row - I watch very carefully to see if they really needed to go - and if not they have just decided to get me out of bed for some extra attention and playtime - remember the pre-adolescent who wants another drink of water, etc. They will test their new families in the same way, and if they win they are ruling the family instead of the family ruling them. At this point the puppies are ready to go to their new homes to families living locally, or those driving from other states to get their puppies. If they are flying we keep them for two more weeks - and ship when they are approximately 10 - 12 weeks old. This allows us to start travel training and leash training of the puppies, and allow them to develop better holding capacity for daytime crating before shipping. Also it gives us time to receive family t-shirts worn until sweaty and placed in ziploc bags to give to the puppies in their crates three days before shipping. Having items of clothing which we tie into knots for a pillow or toy allows the puppy to get used to it's new families scents, and helps it to adapt and bond much more quickly. It also gives us time to ship their puppy pack to them, before the puppy is shipped. We follow up on our puppies for years, and encourage our families to keep in touch with us and contact us with any questions regarding nutrition, training problems or needs. We also board our own puppies back, which is wonderful as then we get to assess their development and personalities as adults. We have families now who purposefully plan their vacations for the Oregon Coast just so they can leave their much loved poodles with us - they come from as far away as Montana, Idaho, north eastern Washington, California, Utah, and of course the closer regions of Oregon and Washington. Unless we are expecting a litter imminently they get to come back and live in the house with us, and always enjoy playing with so many other poodles in our huge back yard, and side yard play areas. We also continue any training that is in progress on the younger puppies. A Mandy boy at 15 weeks! A Lucy daughter at 1 year - sent by her family in Idaho Many of our families also return with their puppies to take the one-on-one grooming classes with us - with Mishelle now being the primary instructor. Many of our families are now doing all of their own grooming, and even if they aren't have found the class very beneficial as they have learned what to expect from a good groomer. Many have returned for second and even third classes to learn advanced scissoring techniques, and several are now learning show grooming and handling from us as well. It's biblical that the older are to teach the younger - and we feel very strongly about this after not finding anyone willing to assist us when we first started out. We want those who have a true desire to become breeders of the poodles to start in the right way, learning to do the proper testing and research, taking part in genetic research projects, learn to groom their poodles properly, and to breed properly, caring for their whelping bitches and puppies correctly. Mishelle should have been in the picture with "Eve" but was in the Show Ring with her instead. She groomed 14 standards and 2 miniatures for this show. The poodle is a wonderful and unique breed - sharing life with it's family. A whelping box is an important item to have when puppies are about to be born. You can construct something yourself or buy a specifically designed boxes from pet stores. When can puppies leave the whelping box? Puppies can often leave the whelping box at 3 weeks old. At this age, puppies can move out of the whelping box as they become more mobile. Puppies can stand up and even climb out of the whelping box nest. At this age, puppies start to explore outside of their nest, to find out more about the wide and exciting world around them. Well, I can tell you that a whelping box will help you and the mother cope better with a horde of tiny puppies in their first few weeks. What is a whelping box? Also known as a nest or whelping pen, the whelping box is a container designed to keep the newborn litter in one safe and cozy place. The mother also likes to have a place where she can give birth to her puppies in comfort while having a sense of security. Whelping means to give birth hence the name of the box. It should be placed in a quiet part of the house and set up a couple of weeks before your dog gives birth. This gives her time to get familiar with the box. Image via Pixabay. What can I use as a whelping box? If your dog is a little girl, you could convert a large, sturdy cardboard box into a nesting box. You can make your own if carpentry is your hobby or you could go to the local pet store and buy a whelping box. What to look out for when picking a whelping box You need to make sure you pick a whelping box that takes into consideration the following factors: The sides are high enough to keep the puppies safely contained in their first 3 weeks but low enough for the mother to move in and out freely. The size is big enough to accommodate all the puppies being born. The bottom of the box may come with whelping pads or you can simply line it with newspapers and a soft blanket. Some breeders will use wood shavings to cover the floor of the box. Some whelping boxes come with an extension which is great for more active puppies who are still too young to leave the pen but are moving around quite a bit. Picking the right whelping box goes a long way to keeping mum and pups comfortable and secure. When is the right age for puppies to leave the whelping box? Puppies develop and mature very quickly in their first few weeks. A whelping box is designed to keep the newborn puppies safe, warm, and comfortable. Keeping the puppies in one place and even using a heat lamp will help keep them warm. And, when the mother needs time out, she can leave the box and get some space knowing her pups are all safe in one spot. A whelping box gives you peace of mind your puppies are well-protected, staying warm, and not disappearing once they start crawling. But be ready for the exodus once they reach 3 weeks old and might start walking! How do I keep the whelping box clean? If your dog gave birth to the puppies in the whelping box, you would need to change the bedding once all the puppies are safely delivered. Keep them warm with a blanket. Use a non-chemical cleaning detergent and warm water to wash out the box. Remove any dirty bedding and replace with clean blankets, newspapers or wood shavings. Some breeders do put in a litter box for puppies once they start crawling. This could be the first step to house training your pups. Do regular inspections throughout the day to make sure the whelping box is always dry and clean. Can I move the whelping box to other areas? Once your puppies have passed their first week, you could consider moving them to different areas in the house. But remember, you need to keep them warm so make sure there are no draughts and the puppies are not too intimidated by the new environment. Be careful also with handling newborn puppies when moving them. For the first 3 weeks, the puppies are small, developing, and can be easily disturbed by too much activity around them. Do I need to put food and water in the whelping box? The puppies will be drinking milk from their mother for the first 3 to 4 weeks, before moving onto water. For the first 3 weeks, you could keep a bowl of water in the box for the mother. She will be very thirsty while nurturing her puppies. However, once the puppies start becoming mobile keep both the water and food outside the box. Conclusion Get ready for a whole lot of fun, but also stress. She will take them no doubt but being able to help just a little with whelping boxes, nesting, and more will make it so much easier for you. You might also like…. Stages of Puppy Development Birth to 3 weeks The first 20 days of a pups life it is not capable of much learning. The mental capacity is about nil. The pup will react when it is in need of food, sleep, warmth and its mother. During the first 3 weeks it is VERY important to look after the dam as well. She will in turn, look after the puppies. Once or twice a day the puppies should be handled by a human and they should be weighed daily. During the first 3 weeks most dams like to be in a warm secluded area, not in the family living area. Pups remain contently in their whelping box for the first 20 days of their life. Newborn puppies sleep most of the day away. No matter what the breed, this is the time when the dormant senses wake up. From day 21 to 28 puppies are in need of their mom more than any other time as their brains and nervous systems begin to develop and they become aware of their surroundings. As mom jumps out of the box, they suddenly watch her wondering where she went. Pups may start climbing out of the whelping box at this age, so it is time to expand their home. At this stage we add a small potty area beside the whelp box. If a puppy were to loose his mom at this stage it would greatly affect his emotional wellbeing. Emotional growth is just blossoming as the puppy realizes it is alive. It is also at this age that characteristics can develop like shyness and fear. Any negative characteristics that develop at this stage in life are often permanent personality traits. The puppies sleep 20 or more hours a day. They will not go far, but they will begin to explore. At this time we expand their area to add a play and eating area in the daytime. This is the time to move them out to the kitchen and family room area, where life is happening in the home. This is not the age to be in the back bedroom, garage or barn. During this time, a puppy will learn to respond to voices, sounds and recognize different people. The puppies in their group will establish a 'pecking order', some will want to lead and some will want to follow. The dominant ones will eat first and the omega ones will wait. The dominant ones can become bullies and hog all the toys. This is an important stage to watch to learn the temperaments of each puppy and should be used for placing puppies into the proper homes. Some scientific studies prove that if there is a bully in a litter that is making others cower and be shy it can set in traits that are very hard to turn around, but it is also important to leave puppies in a social group long enough to be adventurous and for the puppy to acquire some social competitive skills. On the same note, a puppy should never be allowed to get too pushy. While shyer puppies have to learn to handle themselves in social groups, a dominant puppy needs to learn it is not acceptable to be a bully. Different breeds need to be separated at different ages. Often if the bully is adopted out first the remaining puppies will loose some of their shyness. Puppies at this age sleep 18 to 20 hours a day. By 7 weeks, a pup is considered emotionally developed and ready to learn, but the pup does not possess an adult brain yet. At 7 weeks old the breeder of the pups can start crate training for an hour or two a day with 2 pups in a crate. This helps with separation anxiety. By 8 weeks of age a puppy should be able to go in a crate alone for a nap, and it is almost ready for its new home. A puppy should never be taken away from it's mother before weeks of age. The mother dog teaches the puppies in the litter manners, respect, social skills, and proper etiquette, along with many other valuable lessons. When a puppy misses this stage it can cause the pup to have future behavior issues as most humans do not understand natural dog behavior enough to teach the pup these things. What a puppy learns now will be retained and become part of who the dog becomes and his personality. Most dams stop caring for their pups by 7 weeks, as they have teeth and she pushes them away. If a pup is left with the dam during this period it's emotional development can be altered, as it remains dependent on her. The same can happen if littermates are placed together. They rely on each other instead of the new owner and they often do not find adequate security in their mom or littermate. They need their new owner to take over the role and it is important that the humans understand natural dog behavior in order to fulfill the puppies instincts and needs. First shots should be done at 7. When a puppy stays with his litter after 8 to 9 weeks of age without adequate human contact it doesn't adjust as well to a human social life. The optimum time to take a new puppy is from 8 to 9 weeks of age. It is always best to have a pup do his learning from his new owner and in his new home. Puppies are often adopted out at 8, 9, 10 or 11 weeks. Older puppies can do just fine if the breeder has spent a lot of time socializing them away from their littermates. Ideally 9 weeks seems to be the perfect age for most breeds to go to new homes. What the dog learns from 8 to 12 weeks will be with him forever. At this time the puppy must be introduced to other people and go for walks on the pavement street avoiding dirt or grass until it has had its 2nd shots. If the first shots are done at 8 weeks and second are done at 12 weeks it is a good idea to enroll in puppy kindergarten that starts right at 12 weeks. At this age on up to several months old, puppies will sleep 16 to 20 hours a day, give or take depending on the puppies energy level and the activity around them. Sleeping more during rapid growth sprurts. The sleep is broken up between night time sleep and naps during the day. It is common for a puppy to play hard, running around with bounds of energy, then suddenly crashing into a deep sleep. It is important to keep in mind that all puppies by this time have formed a general personality. Some are natural born leaders, some are middle of the road and could go either way and some are very submissive and really prefer not to lead anything. All puppies have an instinct to have a leader who can provide structure, because in their minds without it the pack cannot survive. Therefore even the most naturally born submissive dog may feel the need to take over as an alpha should they feel everyone else around them is too weak to care for the pack. These dogs are often very stressed out about their role because they really do not want it, but feel the need to lead just the same. After all, to them it's a matter of life or death. One of the biggest questions new owners call about is that the pup is an angel for the first couple weeks and then it starts to nip in an attempt to control things around it. This happens when a puppy does not see the humans as natural born leaders to which it can respect and it attempts to get the pack in order. If this happens it does not necessarily mean you got a bad puppy, but often means you are not being a good canine owner. Owners must be calm but firm and follow through. Set the rules of the home and stick to them. Teach basic obedience and how to heel on a leash. Do not let the puppy bolt out the door. Stay calm and confident and remember that dogs can feel your emotions. If you have emotional problems your dog knows and will see you as a weak being. Always remember to a dog anger is a weakness, so take a deep breath and control yourself. Should the puppy feel it is stronger minded than the humans it will not want to be at the bottom. Puppy owners should be prepared that the pup may attempt to establish itself as the dominant one in the family. This is where you need to understand a dog's natural instincts and learn their language so you can read them. It may see whether it can physically strike out at his owner like some teens and could nip or growl. Should this happen be prepared to stop the behavior immediately. It is kind of like kids wanting dessert before dinner or to stay up later. You just have to say NO. Each dog is different, just as kids are, therefore you need to figure out what works for you and your situation. If it is being aggressive one method is to pin it on its back and hold him there with a firm NO. If a pup is allowed to get away with bad behavior it will lose respect for the owner and learn that rebelling gets him his own way. The key is for the humans to be calm, confident and firm all at the same time. If you find yourself yelling or angry you as the human are out of control and need to learn how to portray yourself as someone your dog can look up to and respect. Dogs do not listen to unstable humans and anything but calm, confident and firm, to them is unstable. There should be zero tolerance for aggressiveness. Heaps of love and understanding will not stop bad behavior. A pup must be shown fast and firmly that you are the one in charge. If you have a good breeder who understands the dog even returning him for a few days can help as the breeder gets the dog back under control and you assess your own behavior and understanding of this animal you are trying to live with. Sending a dog away to be trained without training yourself never works, as the way your dog is acting often has more to do with the humans it is living with. This goes for any dog of any age. Learn how to groom your dog. Teach it to lie still for grooming and nail trimming. If you are having trouble call the breeder or a behaviorist for help. It is best to have earned a dog's respect and trust in regards to grooming by 16 weeks of age. A pups natural instinct will be to periodically try to test the order in the pack. Especially if there are children. If the owner is submissive, quiet and week, thus making the dog feel the need to lead the home, its respect for its owner will weaken and the owner will become inferior in the dogs eyes. In these cases the owner is destined to be owned by the dog and you will surely see behavior problems emerge. A puppy should have a good start on crate training when it leaves a breeder's home. Help your puppy feel secure by giving it its own bed and crate in a place where it can be alone when it needs some quiet time. It should be crated for one or two naps per day, especially when making and eating dinner and crated at night. It should not ever have the run of the house till after 6 months of age or housebreaking and training can become very difficult. A puppy should start formal obedience by 6 months of age, preferably sooner. Remember when you choose to adopt a dog you are choosing to take an animal into your home. The animal is not a human baby and humans are not born with canine instincts. Take some time to learn about the canine and be prepared to change your way of life to accommodate the new member of the family. The puppies have arrived. They have been weighed and identified; they have nursed and are now sleeping quietly except for the normal twitching. Now what? Your job is not over yet, in fact, it's really just beginning. Nutrition and Feeding The mother will be ready for some food and water. Bring the dishes to the whelping box, as she will not want to leave the newborn puppies. Do not leave the dishes on the floor in the whelping box, as the puppies could crawl into them. Hang the dishes from the side of the whelping box or offer her food and water at least every hours to start. She should be taken outside on a frequent and regular basis to relieve herself. Within days, the mother's appetite will dramatically increase to times her pre-pregnancy intake. She will need a near constant supply of a high quality puppy food do NOT use large breed puppy formulas, which are generally lower in protein, fat, and minerals and water to maintain her weight and health while feeding the puppies. She should not look gaunt or thin if her weight is maintained. Ideally, she should weigh the same at the time of weaning, as she did when she was bred. A healthy puppy is firm, plump, and vigorous. Puppies should nurse every 2 hours or so. If they nurse until their stomachs appear round and they sleep quietly, they are eating enough. If they are crying and moving a lot, they are not eating enough. They may be swallowing air, which makes the stomach appear larger. As they become weaker, they will lay still and not cry. Their weight should double in the first days. Before, during, and after nursing, the mother will lick the stomach and perineal area to stimulate urination and defecation. She will continue to do this for weeks. Weigh the puppy daily for the first 2 weeks, then weigh at least weekly. A food scale typically works well for weighing the puppies. Failure to gain weight is often the first sign of illness in puppies. At about 3 weeks of age, the puppies will begin to imitate the mother's eating and drinking. A secure shallow water dish should now be available at least part of the day. Prepare the puppy mush by placing 2 cups of high quality dry puppy food in a blender with .This should be blended until the consistency of human infant cereal. This feeds puppies of a medium-sized breed. The puppies should receive meals a day of this to start. Once the puppies have checked it out, walked in it, and have eaten some, the mother can be allowed to finish it and clean the puppies off. Each week, increase the amount of food, decrease the amount of the milk replacer and water that is added and the time of blending, so by 7 weeks of age, the puppies are eating dry food. Once they are on dry food, it may be left in with the puppies when the mother is out of the box or the meal times can continue. As the puppies eat more solid food, the mother may be let away from the puppies for an ever longer period of time. If the weaning is not rushed, she will naturally start decreasing milk production, as the puppies increase their intake of solid food. As the puppies begin eating the puppy mush at 4 weeks of age, start changing the mother's diet back to adult food to also help her decrease milk production. Keep increasing the adult food and decreasing the puppy food until by the 7th week postpartum she is eating only adult food. Hopefully she has been fed well during pregnancy and lactation so she weighs the same at weaning as she did before pregnancy. Want to learn how to save on your dog's veterinary care? Click here Sanitation and Housebreaking During and after whelping, the mother should be allowed to go outside to urinate and defecate. Take her out on a leash bring a flashlight if it is dark , and watch her closely, as she could have another puppy. The whelping box needs to be changed at least once a day at this stage, and times a day as the puppies begin eating solids and the mother is not cleaning up after them. A large heavy paper may be laid on the bottom, several layers of newspaper over that, and a tightly stretched blanket over the newspaper. The blanket should be large enough to fit under all 4 sides of the box. If the box was made so the sides set into the floor, the sides are picked up, the blanket stretched, and the sides set down to hold the blanket in place. Puppies can become lost under blankets or under wrinkles in blankets. When cleaning, check the consistency and color of the puppy stool. It should be brown and formed, but not overly firm. Any deviations and the veterinarian should be contacted. To facilitate housebreaking, the puppies should be given definite feeding, playing, sleeping, and elimination areas. Once the puppies are mobile, they will use one area for elimination. Cover this area with a layer of newspapers with cedar or pine shavings on top. The new owners then place a small amount of cedar or pine shavings in the preferred location of their yard to aid in housebreaking. Keep the elimination area clean and dry. Puppies head toward the heat source to nurse so do not have the heat source warmer than the mother. Hanging a household thermometer on the inside of the whelping box will help you know the temperature in the box. Puppies typically lay side by side or on top of each other to share warmth. If the puppies are scattered throughout the whelping box and away from the heat lamp, the temperature is too warm. If they are all piled on top of each other, it may be too cold. Puppies need the extra heat, as they are unable to regulate their body temperature until several weeks old. Health of the Mother Each mammary gland and nipple should be checked at least once a day for redness, hardness, discharge, or streaking color. If mastitis develops, the veterinarian should be notified immediately. If caught early, milking out the affected gland and applying hot compresses will help prevent a spread of the problem. Sometimes, antibiotics are necessary. If she gets multiple glands with mastitis, the puppies will need to be bottle fed. The puppies' nails should be trimmed weekly starting within days of birth. This will help prevent some of the scratches on the mother's mammary glands. The deciduous teeth start coming in around day .Check the mammary glands of the mother daily for bite marks. The mother will have a bloody discharge from her vulva which may be quite heavy for several days. It should decrease in amount and become darker and be almost gone within weeks. The mother's hair may have become very thick and luxurious during the pregnancy. Around the time of weaning, the mother starts to shed. This extreme loss of hair coat is natural and it should be back to normal in about another months. This shedding is more extreme than a normal shed cycle and some mothers become quite bald. This is often called 'blowing a coat. Click here Puppy Healthcare Puppies who are not thriving should be examined as soon as possible by a veterinarian to check for birth defects. Some defects, such as a cleft palate are not compatible with life. These puppies should be humanely euthanized. Dewclaws are removed and tails docked at days of age. Make an appointment with your veterinarian for these procedures to be done. Check your breed's standard, as some breeds need to have dewclaws left intact in order to show. Tail length changes, so again, the current breed standard should be consulted. When the puppies are at the clinic and having these procedures done, the mother should be taken for a walk around the block until the puppies are done. She should not be close enough to the clinic to hear the puppies crying. Once they are put back with the mother, the puppies normally nurse and then sleep. Vaccinations are started at weeks of age. Some breeders give a parvo virus vaccine at 5 weeks of age, if the puppies are at a high-risk. Ask your veterinarian if your puppies should be vaccinated early for parvo virus. They recommend puppy deworming for roundworms and hookworms start at 2 weeks of age and be repeated at 4, 6, and 8 weeks of age. Thereafter, use a heart worm preventive medication that is also effective against hookworms and roundworms. Foster and Smith suggest that owners of newly acquired puppies obtain the deworming history of their new pup and contact their veterinarian to determine if additional deworming is needed. The mother should be dewormed at the same time as the puppies. A health check done by a veterinarian at weeks of age before the puppies head for new homes should include checks for heart murmurs, hernias, cryptorchidism, demodectic mange, other parasites, eye disorders, etc. Normal puppy development The umbilical cord normally falls off within days of birth. Infections of the umbilicus are rare in clean, well-managed kennels. Puppies normally twitch and jerk while sleeping. This helps with the development of their nerves and muscles. The puppies crawl well by days, walk at 16 days, and have a normal gait at 21 days. They need to be on footing that offers traction. By 4 weeks of age, the puppies follow each other and carry toys in their mouths. They will play-fight with each other and learn how to inhibit their bites. If a puppy bites a littermate too hard, the littermate will yelp and stop playing with him. If the puppy is allowed to bite humans, he will not learn to inhibit his bite. It may be cute as a 7-week old, but it will not be as a 7-year old. Puppies are born without teeth. The deciduous baby teeth start to erupt at weeks of age. All of the deciduous teeth are usually present by 8 weeks of age. The puppies' eyes will open around days of age. The retina matures around 21 days of age. Puppies should see clearly by 4 weeks of age. Do not pry open the lids for any reason, as the immature eye is not yet ready to handle light. If the eyes appear swollen before they open, take the puppy to a veterinarian immediately as an eye infection may be present that needs to be treated to prevent loss of vision. Some puppies will take a day to open the eyes while others will take days. The eyes will have a bluish color to them at first and then change to their adult color over time. If the eyes appear white or solid blue, take the puppy to the veterinarian right away. The ears open at days of age. They should hear clearly by 4 weeks of age. Deafness may not be noticeable while the puppies are together and first noticed when the puppy is in her new home. Interactions Between the Mother and Puppies By the time the puppies are weeks old, the mother should have an area near the whelping box, but separate from the puppies to allow her time to rest. At about this time, the puppies will start trying to leave the box to explore. They should be well supervised and have safe toys available. The box at this point should be big enough to be divided between eating, sleeping, playing, and eliminating rooms. At this stage, a crate with the door removed and lined with sheepskin or a dog bed can be given to the puppies for sleeping quarters and to familiarize them with crates. Puppy Socialization Early socialization of the puppies will help them become confident and develop fewer behavior problems. The puppies should be exposed to everything possible from metal food dishes dropping, to vacuums, garage doors opening and closing, thunderstorms, sirens, garbage trucks going past, cats, and other pets, etc. Do not try to keep the area quiet during the day. The puppies need to get used to normal household noises. Children should be allowed to play outside the whelping box supervised so they do not enter the box or drop toys in , as children behave differently than adults. Everything the puppy is exposed to now, will help her become a well-socialized, unafraid adult. The puppies should be handled several times a day. They can be picked up, their teeth looked at, ears checked, toes played with nails will need a weekly trimming , and have anything that may be done as an adult started slowly now. Play helps to develop the puppy's mind, as he needs to find solutions to problems he encounters. If the puppies are not in new homes by 10 weeks of age, they should be separated from each other for a large part of the day and given one-on-one time with humans. They can have play times during the day, but they should eat, sleep, and be handled separately. Being in a kennel group situation beyond weeks of age decreases trainability. Ready to start saving money on pet wellness care? Then take a look at Mint Wellness, the pet wellness plan that provides fast reimbursement on routine pet care. Save on vaccinations, wellness exams, preventatives, dental, and more! For heating the pups in the whelping box particle board construction with adjustable entrance and pig rails , we have a lectro-kennel pad in part of it. There is a window into the rest of the shop from the room; for mama dogs' sake, I wish we had a window to the outside.But it's not a kennel setup, so it's not perfect. The pups stay in this room for weeks.When they are big enough to move outside, they spend the nights in a chain-link fenced kennel about 8 x 13 feet on gravel. If they have to be kenneled while we're home, then we can open that up to an adjacent kennel the same size. Puppy pen- I wouldn't use hogwire. We've had pups almost hang themselves in the stuff really young pups can hang up in diamond chain link too ; albeit I think the hogwire type fence we used had smaller increments than regular hogwire. Anyways, we supervised them closely when they were in this pen. Size-wise I think the largest you can provide, the better, as long as it's safe. We've used 10x10 too but it just seemed too small especially when they were weeks old. The cement blocks should work fine. Our puppy pens are on the grass and then we just move it around the yard when the grass seems to be getting too worn out.

You can bet on laying out a lot of cash for a dog like this. But purebred dogs, just like any other breed, can end up in rescue homes and shelters. Check out our list of the best Bernedoodle rescues in the USA and Canada — your best bets to finding a Bernedoodle to adopt or rehome These days, there are increasingly more options for Bernedoodle rescues around the United States. Some of these are single locations, some serve a certain state or multistate region, and some are remote networks of foster homes. If you are looking to provide a Bernedoodle with a happy home and want to work with a trustworthy rescue organization, these are some of the best options in the country. What Is a Bernedoodle? These larger-than-average dogs are gentle, affectionate, and playful. Unfortunately, because they are technically classified as a designer breed, they are often found in shelters once they have served their purpose. Best Bernedoodle Rescues 1. Doodle Rescue Collective Inc. This network is extensive, with more than locations. The goal of the collective is to save all the Doodle breeds possible. That includes Bernedoodles as well as other cross-breeds. Their website offers you the chance to apply for a dog when it needs a home. When they get a pool of applicants, the staff carefully reviews them to find the best match for the animal in need. For this reason, you might be waiting a bit longer for a Bernedoodle from the Rescue Collective than from other rescues. But the result is a pet that is perfect for you and your living situation. The team rescues unwanted and abandoned animals all around the country, including ones from puppy mills, unethical breeders, and kill shelters. Since they were formed in , the team at All 4 Paws has saved the lives of more than 12, animals. Many of the animals they foster come from commercial breeding facilities, where they are forcibly bred and then dumped when they no longer are useful. The animals rescued through All 4 Paws are placed in foster homes. If you are interested in helping, you can volunteer as a foster home or fill out an adoption form for a particular pet on their website. They are headquartered in Houston, Texas, but work with organizations around the country to help save the dogs and find them new homes. The dogs at IDOG Rescue are a mix of shelter dogs and dogs that have been voluntarily surrendered by their former owners. The mission is to find them a safe foster home until the right person can provide them with a new and permanent life. Because the network has foster families throughout the United States, it might be easier to find a Bernedoodle up for adoption in your area than you might think. You will have to apply for a specific animal to be considered. It is funded entirely through donations and staffed by volunteers. Although they mostly focus on Labradoodles, you will also find a good number of Bernedoodles at this organization. Doodle Rock Rescue operates throughout the wider Dallas area to rescue, treat, and rehome Doodle breeds. The organization was just opened in and is still a work in progress. Though their rescue efforts are based around Doodle breeds, organizers hope to open an all-animal clinic soon. Since opening its door in , the nonprofit has rescued more than dogs. If you live within miles of Dallas, this is a rescue you should consider. The organization rescues poodles and poodle mixes throughout the tri-state area and finds them homes. This smaller but dedicated effort is a great choice for anyone living in one of these three states. Mid-Atlantic Poodle Rescue screens applicants very carefully to make sure they can provide a good home for their rescue dogs. These usually include having a fenced-in yard and not having any children under the age of five. Oodles of Doodles Rescue Collective Oodles of Doodles Rescue Collective is a bit unique in that it does not operate out of a physical shelter or facility. Instead, it is simply a nationwide network of foster homes. This makes it more likely that you might find an adoptable dog since there are bound to be options in your area. With such a wide rescue effort, you can find Doodle breeds of every variety in almost every state around the country. These dogs have been rescued from abandonment, kill shelters, puppy mills, and other inhumane situations. While they wait for a forever home, they are sheltered by a foster family. Oodles of Doodles also offers a rehoming service for people who need to surrender their dog but want to avoid putting it in a shelter or a bad home. This non-profit organization operates on donations and is run by volunteers. The organization works with many dog breeds, but Bernedoodles make frequent appearances. You can chalk this up to the mountainous region, which is perfect for a mountain altitude-loving dog. This is to ensure that all the dogs go to families that will give them the time and attention that they need. The organization works with a team of adoption coordinators whose job is to match each dog with the perfect home. This extensive network of volunteers works to rescue, foster, and rehome Doodle breeds of all kinds. Anyone who lives within five hours of Dallas is eligible to apply. You will have to fill out an application for a specific dog. The good news is that you will find detailed animal bios with pictures, personal histories, videos, and more. The rescue makes sure you get a solid idea of a dog before you apply to adopt them. Doodle Dandy Rescue operates within a controlled radius for a good reason. The organization offers rehoming services for poodles and poodle mixes, which include Bernedoodles. It hosts frequent adoption events and tends to be very quick about finding dogs their forever homes. If you are approved, someone will contact you over the phone to talk about the dogs that might be a good choice for you. Like many other rescue networks, it does not have a physical location. Instead, it operates remotely to help rescue, foster, and rehome poodles and poodle mixes. Finding a Bernedoodle through an organization like this is not a guarantee. Georgia Poodle Rescue Georgia Poodle Rescue is a nonprofit organization dedicated to rescuing poodles and poodle mixes throughout the state. The organization is unique in the amount of training they offer for dogs and adoptive families alike. At Georgia Poodle Rescue, all the dogs receive basic obedience training as well as leash training. They are also housebroken and socialized before being listed for adoption. Anyone who wants to continue training sessions after the adoption is welcome to do so. Note: You can also check them out on YouTube and Instagram. NorCal Poodle Rescue — California This non-profit organization is focused on taking in unwanted and abused Poodles and mixes such as the Bernedoodles in Northern California. Being the third-largest Poodle rescue in the United States, NorCal Poodle Rescue has a wide network of volunteers and foster families in various states in the country. An important factor in their adoption process is being the right fit for the rescued pooch. How do they assess this? Usually, a volunteer takes a look at your application and if they deem you a perfect match then they will contact you for further details. Rest assured that this fee is used mostly to keep your cross-breed healthy before it goes home with you. Like most Bernedoodle rescues, Summit Dog has a stringent adoption procedure but they are set apart by a few requirements. If you live around the area, this Bernedoodle rescue may be a good place to start looking. Thus, they need a more patient and careful companion and guardian. You can check out their online contact form or review their contact details below. This, alongside the Bernedoodle rescue options from our directory, will increase your chances of bringing home the dog you desire. This rescue focuses on rehoming Poodles, Poodle-mixes, and other low-shedding dogs. You can check out their website for available Bernedoodles to take home. Oodles of Doodles Rescue Collective — Working to collect and match Doodles to their forever homes, this volunteer-run organization has been working tirelessly since .You can check out their available dogs for adoption on their website. Petfinder — Being one of the largest pet adoption websites, Pet finder allows you to browse through a wide array of dogs nationwide. One of the best things about Pet finder is that they have a search filter that allows you to narrow down your Bernedoodle search. Adopt-a-Pet — Similarly, Adopt-a-Pet is a platform that allows you to search across state lines for the Bernedoodle of your dreams. Local Animal Shelters and Rescue Organizations — Of course, the best places to look are right around the corner. Their primary owners are moving to a house with less space or accommodation without a backyard. The family went through personal problems or issues leading to their incapability to take care of the dog. The primary owner might have died and no family members want to take the dog in. The owners no longer want to put in the effort for their grooming needs. Their financial situation may have forced them to let go of their pooch as they can no longer shoulder its expenses. The family may have added a new member that is sensitive or not well adjusted to dogs. The owners could not keep up with its high exercise needs. No matter the reason, Bernedoodles end up in shelters through no fault of their own. Bernedoodles are a loyal and gentle breed that serves as a great family dog due to their innate Poodle intelligence and outgoing Bernese Mountain Dog temperament. However, breaking your bank is not a requirement to take home a Bernedoodle. This is relatively cheaper than buying from registered breeders. To provide you with a reference, provided below is a breakdown of where the Bernedoodle adoption fee goes: Expenses. Email: [email protected] Arizona Poodle Rescue is a collection of private foster homes in the Phoenix area and does not operate a physical shelter. This Bernedoodle rescue Arizona is even putting more focus recently into helping Standard Poodles and Poodle mixes so you have an even better shot at finding your Bernedoodle companion! Here are the steps we recommend taking to give yourself the best shot at finding Bernedoodles for adoption in your area… 1. Start with our list of rescues and shelters above. If they require you to apply in advance, do so. See our complete directory of doodle rescues! There is a chance that any of these organizations may have a Bernedoodle available. If not, there could be dogs of other doodle breeds that you may fall in love with! Search on Petfinder. This is a fantastic resource that lets you search for rescue dogs near you and filter based on breed, shelter, age, and more! Reach out to local shelters, human society, and doodle owner groups. It never hurts to ask around. You may even find a local doodle owner that needs to re-home their dog. Beware of Bernedoodle Adoption Scams Always do your research and thoroughly investigate any Bernedoodle adoption organization before accepting a puppy or offering payment of any kind. There are two main red flags you want to lookout for when searching for a Bernedoodle to adopt…scammers and deceptive marketing from breeders. Scammers will attempt to act as a rescue organization or charity while asking you for donations, adoption fees, or application fees. In addition to outright scammers there are breeders who attempt to be deceptive with their marketing to confuse and trick people into thinking they are rescuing a Bernedoodle puppy rather than buying one. What is the Process of Rescuing a Bernedoodle? Usually their adoption process is laid out in detail on their website. Some rescues have you submit a general application that they review each time a new Bernedoodles arrives at their shelter. Other rescues ask you to keep an eye on their website, Facebook, or Petfinder profile to be alerted when new Bernedoodles are in need of a home. At that point you would then apply. One thing that all good rescues have in common is that their application process is fairly extensive and in-depth. This helps increase the odds that the rescue Bernedoodles will only have to go through this stressful experience once. Some steps that may be involved are background checks, calling personal references, calling veterinarian and groomer references, a phone interview, and a home visit. Should You Adopt a Bernedoodle? This is why the application process is extremely important to ensure a successful experience for both dog and owner. You save money on puppy vaccinations and spaying or neutering. All rescue Bernedoodles will come with these veterinary appointments taken care of already. While this helps avoid as many upsetting surprises, you can never be too prepared for the large veterinary expenses that come with accidents and illnesses. Cons Due to their personality and history, many rescue dogs have specific adoption requirements like a fenced back yard, no children, no cats, or a multi-dog house. It may take longer for you to find the right dog for your family and the process is a lot more work. At the end of the day, choosing to rescue a Bernedoodle or purchase one from a breeder is a big decision. Learn More About Bernedoodles…. Doodle Rescue Collective Inc Lovebugs Doodle Rescue The Lovebugs Doodle Rescue has been in operation for over 10 years, and while they focus on Doodles, they do also deal with other breeds of dogs that need to be rescued and helped in some way. One thing to be aware of is that the application process with Lovebugs Doodle Rescue is one of the most involved in the country, but that is a good thing rather than something to be frowned upon. It just means they know in advance that their dogs are going to a new loving home rather than sending the dog back into a horrible situation. Based in Corona Del Mar, they always have a number of Doodle dogs in their care at any given time. We would recommend getting in touch with this organization and let them know of your desire to adopt a Bernedoodle. They can even get started with the application process in advance. That means checking you out, and that will speed things up when the perfect dog for you does indeed come into their organization. However, they cover a huge area when it comes to offering Doodles up for adoption. This organization has a tendency to bring a large number of Doodle-type dogs into their care. That does mean you will have a number of dogs to choose from at any given time. Now, we cannot guarantee that there will be a large number of Bernedoodles at any time. At least you stand a good chance of being able to find a dog that you would love to bring into your family. Also, they are breeders of Doodle dogs. However, the adoption and rescue aspect is a big part of what they do. Be aware that they do tend to ask for more money for the adoption process than what you will often find elsewhere. They simply look to get back the money they have spent on having them checked by a vet. But to deal with this organization, will involve getting in touch with them directly. You must make sure that they know you are looking to adopt a rescue in advance. This is instead of one of the litters that they have bred themselves. While they do deal with any breed of dog, this is going to clearly include a Bernedoodle, along with other Doodle dogs as well. This organization has managed to help thousands of dogs find their new forever home. They will work closely with you to identify and find the right dog for your own unique situation. This does involve you having to pass a number of checks with the organization. However, they simply want to make sure that you are capable of caring for the dog in advance. It makes sense to do this before the adoption process is completed. They will spend time checking over your own individual situation. Next, they will also spend a lot of time checking the dogs themselves before adoption. This makes sure they are healthy before being adopted out. All of the tests and vaccinations are then covered in the adoption fee, and we recommend contacting them to learn more about the current rates. Finally, make sure you tell them you are looking for a Bernedoodle to adopt. Your name will then be added to a list. However, keep in mind that they will then determine if you are the perfect match for the dog. Additional Info:. Thanks for stopping by! If you are a first time visitor, then congratulations on your decision to adopt a dog! Your are about to improve and potentially save! Every state page here on Local Dog Rescues contains a complete list of all the local rescue organizations that we have identified in each state. You will be able to see all their current contact information, as well as a link to their website, so you can check and see what dogs they currently have available for adoption. We provide all this information to help you identify ALL the available dogs for rescue near you, so you can find your perfect pup. It is jam packed with awesome info that will help you on your adoption journey! If you are considering getting a Bernedoodle, you'll want to check out the incredible book "The Complete Guide to Bernedoodles". It's written in an easy-to-understand way but still has the expert knowledge to help any new owner successfully raise their Bernedoodle from puppy to old-age. It's widely available, so pick up a copy if you see one, or click here to grab one on Amazon. This breed blends the silliness of a Poodle with the easygoing loyalty of a Bernese Mountain Dog. They are a companion dog through and through and love nothing more than to be around you. Overall, the Bernedoodle is a wonderful companion for anyone. We are so grateful that we are able to help you rescue the dog of your dreams. In addition to coming back here, you can also check us out on Facebook , Twitter , and Pinterest for additional info on rescue groups near you, current posts, and pictures! Bernedoodle Rescues in California. For instance, you can expect the adoption fee for a Mini Bernedoodle rescue dog to be slightly higher than Standard-sized dogs. In addition, younger puppies tend to be more expensive than adult and senior dogs. Most Bernedoodles live between 12 to 18 years without major health complications, so you can expect them to be a significant part of your life for several years. It Can Take Time for Your Bernedoodle to Get Along with Your Other Pets Bernedoodles for adoption might have an unknown background, so it might be difficult to tell if they can get along with other dogs, cats, or other pets in their new homes. Before applying to adopt a dog, be sure to ask the rescue if the dog is good around other animals. If your new dog is good around other pets, consider introducing them to each other in neutral territory. Keep their interactions brief, but gradually increase their time together and reward your pets if they express positive reactions to each other. This process can take longer for some dogs, so you should remain patient and monitor them whenever possible. Yearly and monthly pet budgets can differ from owner to owner, but you can expect to spend thousands of dollars a year to keep your Bernedoodle happy and healthy. However, the organization sees hundreds of volunteer workers dedicating their time at the shelter. Why Should You Adopt from a Rescue? There are many wonderful reasons new owners should adopt a Bernedoodle from a rescue. Statistics show that every year, an estimated 1 million dogs get euthanized. The number of dogs euthanized drops significantly when people adopt from rescues and shelters rather than puppy mills. The National Humane Education Society explains that puppy mills are factory-style breeding facilities that substantially harm puppies and dogs. The conditions are notoriously bad and the mills do not provide proper healthcare. This leads to ill puppies and dogs that often have issues with behavior. Puppies in mills come from adult female dogs that live in cages and spend their lives breeding without a home. When a dog gets too old and can no longer breed, puppy mills will kill or abandon the dog. Benefits for You When you adopt from a rescue, you will receive a Bernedoodle that has been well-taken care of and usually already trained. In addition, adopting from a rescue is usually much cheaper than other options. They also are wonderful, lifelong sources of dog owner tips and information. More often than not, dogs that are adopted from rescues have already had their vaccines, have been fixed, and are overall healthier because they receive adequate care. For you, this means less work and trips to the vet. You can also remind others of your good deed when discussing your dog with your friends! You must know if you will be able to handle the responsibilities associated with taking care of an animal. Consider the following areas and tips while researching Bernedoodle rescues. Know the Bernedoodle Breed Needs Every dog breed manifests different personalities and needs. When it comes to Bernedoodles, they need a lot of food, exercise, and grooming. Keep in mind that their size ranges from 40 to 90 pounds, and their height ranges inches. Most Bernedoodles will not shed that much because of their breed mix. However, they will still need to be brushed several times a week to maintain a healthy-looking coat. Their nails will need trimming once every 3 to 4 weeks. Bernedoodles do well with children and active young families. They also live decently long for a dog with an average life span of years. These dogs can be incredibly energetic and need an owner willing to be active with them. When young, Bernedoodles can be boisterous, playful, and sometimes headstrong. Relatively easy to train, the Bernedoodle does well with an owner willing to keep up with them. Usually, Bernedoodles will be quite eager to please during training. Remove all wires, shoes, and anything that your puppy may damage, chew, or that risk injury. Regardless of age, make sure that you have a collar, leash, bed, food, water, and everything necessary to make sure your dog is comfortable. Do not forget to give your puppy some new toys as a welcome home gift, and start training your Bernedoodle from day one. Do your research on each type of food before giving it to your dog. Each dog food type comes with health risks and benefits. Kibble, also called dry dog food, is the least expensive and easiest to store. Canned food is wet food and easy to store since it has a long shelf life. However, wet food is expensive and does not provide many health benefits for your dog. If you want to give your Bernedoodle dog food, make sure that you check the nutritional label to see how balanced the food is. Sometimes, canned dog food holds too much water or proteins that may not be healthy for your pup. Semi-moist foods unfortunately have a lot of preservatives, colorings, and flavors that are not healthy for your puppy. Most dogs enjoy this food type on special occasions. Food prepared by owners usually offers the most nutritional value. As always, talk to your vet about the best diet for your dog. Be Aware of Separation Anxiety Dogs and puppies are like children and need lots of attention. However, they need to be able to handle themselves on their own. At the same time, all dogs deserve an owner who does not leave them constantly. When dogs have separation anxiety, behavioral problems form. They may chew, whine, or urinate inside your home. At first, every dog will have some separation anxiety, and Bernedoodles as a breed are particularly prone to developing separation anxiety when left alone for long periods. To combat and prevent separation anxiety in your Bernedoodle, start by talking to your dog in a soft voice while leaving or returning. Then, establish a routine or action that you do every time you leave that lets your dog know that you will be back home shortly. Many other techniques for addressing separation anxiety in dogs exist that you can investigate. The vet will be able to prescribe medication for your dog that can ease anxiety. You might also like: Top Sheepadoodle Rescues For Adoption Conclusion Remember, adopting a Bernedoodle dog from a rescue requires a lot of responsibility, time, and money on your part. However, everyone who owns a dog will tell you that their furry friends are worth it. Have you enjoyed our list of Bernadoodle rescues? Tell us what you think in the comments and share this article with your friends and family if you liked it. Meet our writer Jen Clifford is an animal behaviorist and veterinary technician with more than a decade of hands-on experience working in small animal and specialty veterinary clinics. Leave a Comment.

Read more about the pups that are currently up for adoption. Read More… Foster Dogs FBRN is being faced with an increasing number of dogs who are ill, handicapped, or need expensive veterinary care before being placed. Meet our Foster Frenchies and please consider sponsoring one of them to ensure that they receive the care that they need. Read More… Surrender a Dog Life has thrown you a curve ball and you must surrender your French Bulldog… we are here to help! Read More… Volunteer We welcome you to join us in our efforts to rehabilitate and rehome needy French Bulldogs. We have many options for you to choose from, depending on your circumstances, time and resources. Our organization is composed solely of volunteers who nurture and foster these dogs as well as provide education and training. Our goal is to place healthy and happy French Bulldogs into forever homes. Read More… Contact Us Learn about the many ways that you can get in touch with us. He has a Staffie sister, Lettie, who he adores and who has taught him so much with her gentle patience. He has doggie friends at daycamp he sees once a week. He is the best snuggler ever! He used to be a resource guarder, but will now bring you his toys for a treat! He loves our daily walks and meeting people. Thank you FBRN for picking us to be his family- we love him so much! Despite being mostly blind and deaf, Ham is thriving in his golden years, especially with his folks now working from home. Thank you FBRN for our goodest good boy! We are so grateful for every day with him. She had cherry eye surgery in March right before Covid quarantine and the surgery was a success. A gigantic thank you to FBRN for allowing me to adopt this perfect little nugget. All Rights Reserved. A c 3 Non-Profit Organization. Tax ID: .Powered by Geeks4Rent. They had been left alone by their owner to suffer through the night — and for one of them it was already too late. The surviving bulldog, dubbed Phoenix, was hairless, sick and clearly terrified by her sudden change of environment. She was started on antibiotics, steroids, medicated baths and foot soaks, and antihistamines, to treat her inflamed skin — and immediately she began to heal. Second Chance Dog Rescue When Phoenix improved to the point that she could be spayed, the surgeon found another horrible surprise. It was a miracle that the little dog had not died from complications or infection — proving that above all else Phoenix was a survivor. Her patient foster mom slowly began to train her on how to be a household pet — exposing her little by little to the outside world, and teaching her basic commands. Second Chance Dog Rescue Three months after Phoenix was abandoned, the little dog has finally learned what having a home really means. And her life as a spoiled pet is far from anything she could have imagined. By signing up, I agree to the Terms and Privacy Policy. Cookie Settings. Published on July 19, PM EDT Photo: roadogs Stanley the fluffy French bulldog has earned the nickname Stanley Smiles because of his big, natural grin, but just a few months ago, this adorable dog was found in "deplorable conditions. Yes, French bulldogs and English bulldogs are cute, but I think a lot of people have no idea how many health issues they can have and how expensive they can be to maintain. We spend a lot on vet bills," Carvey added about Roadogs. In May, authorities confiscated dogs, including Stanley, from a small residence in Modesto, California, after police officers responded to "a domestic violence call and found the dogs being kept in deplorable conditions," Carvey told PEOPLE about Stanley's origins. The authorities found the dogs packed in stacked crates with little room to move. Three Orphaned Bear Cubs Move to California Wildlife Center for a Second Chance "One officer recalled gagging and vomiting at the smell of ammonia and feces outside, and inside there was dry urine and feces all over the floors. The owner was taken to court a month later, and the DA was successful in getting all the dogs signed over to the Stanislaus Animal Services Agency. They then chose to work with several reputable rescues to ensure these dogs get the best homes. Roadogs was one of those rescues. Even though Stanley "stank of urine" and "was pretty disgusting" when he was rescued, the dog's personality shone through the muck. He was used to being confined in a cage, so even though he'll be in the bedroom with space and comfy beds, I'll find him squeezed in a tight spot behind the treadmill — or under a chest of drawers. I'm just letting him come around in his own time," she said of Stanley's recovery. Korean Animal Groups Save 21 Canines Left Behind at Dog Meat Farm from 'Unbearable Situation' While Stanley is rebounding well after his rescue, Roadogs hopes the story of how this cute-looking dog was found crammed in a filthy cage amongst dozens of other canines encourages animal lovers to research where they get their pets. These Greeders focus on creating the next rare 'It' dog just so they can charge more money — despite the fact that many of these dogs will have long-term health issues," Carvey said of illegal breeding operations that sell dogs online. That's how you end up with a situation like Stanley's, where dogs spend their lives in cages, living in filth," Carvey said. Stanley came from a Modesto duplex. And there are many more people out there with dog cages stacked in their homes or garages. Be vigilant. If you see something, report it. If you smell something, report it! Carvey also said that the easiest way to ensure you are not supporting animal cruelty when you get a pet is by adopting your furry friend from a reputable rescue or shelter. And if you adopt, you are definitely not supporting a puppy mill," she explained. For those set on purchasing a dog, Carvey advised that the animal lovers do their research, visit the home of the breeder they plan on buying from, and never agree to purchase a dog online without meeting the breeder and animal first. After some time at Roadogs recuperating from the neglect he experienced at his last home, Stanley is ready to find his forever family. The fluffy French bulldog is looking for a patient family willing to work with him on housetraining and prepared to keep Stanley on his raw food diet, according to Roadogs' Instagram. To learn more about Roadogs rescue and their life-saving work, visit the nonprofit's website. Related Articles. Introduction A very special dog is now becoming part of your life. So many of the people who have undertaken this journey before you have reported that it was the most rewarding thing they have ever done — and the odds are that it will be for you, too. Puppy mill rescue dogs Over the next year or two, you will watch a dog who has been deprived of virtually every known pleasure begin to first explore, then enjoy, a life that offers her these pleasures. But it may not be an easy road for you and for your new canine companion. Puppy mill dogs have had their world turned upside down. This guide provides you with some specific methods for helping your puppy mill survivor. It is meant to supplement our larger report entitled Understanding and Caring for Rescued Puppy Mill Dogs , which is a comprehensive summary of the findings of our study of over 1, breeding dogs who were rescued from lives in puppy mills and adopted into human households. In obtaining full psychological and behavioral profiles of them, we were able to gain a wealth of information about these incredible dogs. Some basic facts: Puppy mills. They are large-scale commercial dog-breeding operations where the happiness of the dogs is all but ignored in order to make a monetary profit from selling the puppies. To maximize profits, the dogs are housed in very small enclosures, live in unsanitary living quarters, are fed inferior-quality food, are denied decent medical care, and, most important, are severely deprived of positive human social contact. Psychological functioning. Because puppy mill dogs are born and raised in an impoverished environment and endure severe stress throughout life, their psychological functioning is not like that of normally raised pet dogs. This shows itself in how they interact with people, their desire to make eye contact, their social skills with other dogs, their desire to play, their ability to focus attention and learn — in short, their ability to function like a typical dog. Fortunately, the dogs have a remarkable capacity to recover from their psychological impairments. Many recover to the point where they appear to be completely rid of their psychological difficulties, others recover partially but not completely, and others are so severely troubled that they continue to struggle emotionally. Every puppy mill dog has a different capacity to adapt and recover, and we almost never know at the outset what this limit will be or when the dog will reach it. What this means is that adopters must accept up-front that the dog they are taking into their home may retain some psychological impairment throughout his or her life and may always be a special-needs companion. Rehabilitation of puppy mill dogs is often difficult and fraught with frustration. It may take weeks, months, or even years for the dogs to be free of their fears and other emotional struggles. But, as our studies have shown, the adopters who open their arms and hearts to these little survivors are all but assured an immensely rewarding experience. Course of recovery. For some it is fast, but for most it is slow. It can be fast, and then slow, and then fast again. Steps forward are often interspersed with steps backward. All puppy mill dogs are affected by their puppy mill experience in their own way, and their needs for healing are very unique when they escape that life. Methods of rehabilitation will also vary in their effectiveness from dog to dog. Methods that are beneficial for one dog may be ineffective and even counterproductive in another. Rehabilitation can involve some trial and error until you see what works best for your dog. Normal dog behavior. We know that there are many aspects of normal dog behavior that dogs who have spent their entire lives in puppy mills cannot be expected to show at first, among them: Showing any control or discrimination over when and where they urinate and defecate Trusting humans Desiring petting or being picked up, held or hugged Playing with humans, other dogs or toys Understanding any cues Walking on a leash Eight words to live by. Write them on a piece of paper and post it on your refrigerator so you will see it every day. For example, while almost no dog straight out of the puppy mill has any concept of or experience with a collar and leash, if a dog has been given enough time to learn about these things in a foster home, it may mean that, upon coming home with you, the dog is very familiar with wearing a collar and being on a leash. Back to top 2. How to prepare for bringing home your rescued puppy mill dog There are some things you will need to do before your new adopted puppy mill dog arrives in your home. Do: Dog-proof your house. In particular, remove or place out of reach small objects that might be ingested and anything you do not want chewed. Buy a dog crate that is the right size for the new dog tall enough for the dog to stand, long enough to accommodate the dog lying down from nose to base of the tail. Wire crates provide more ventilation, but the dogs feel more exposed correctable by draping blankets over the top and sides. The plastic crates are more den-like, thus providing a greater sense of security. The tops also can come off, allowing a fearful dog to be removed without pulling her through a crate door. Finally, be sure that the bottom of the crate is very comfortable to walk on, as many of these dogs have walked on nothing but wire cage flooring and their feet may be injured and painful. A soft blanket or pad works well for this. Have these additional items already at home before the arrival of the dog: Nylon leash, 6 feet in length Sturdy nylon collar of the correct size You should be able to fit two fingers comfortably under the collar when it is on the dog. Harness Again, you may have to wait until the dog arrives for proper sizing. Back to top 3. How to introduce your dog to your home You will almost certainly adjust to your new dog well before he adjusts to you, your family, and your household. Because of this, one of the strongest inclinations for newly adopted puppy mill dogs is to hide — behind, under, farther away — in any way that lessens the fear. The hiding can be for days or weeks, with the dog coming out only at night to get some food and water. When a puppy mill dog enters your home, your most important job is to protect him from things that frighten him. Do: Be patient. For these dogs, use of a crate will likely have to be omitted from any steps during the adjustment phase to the new home. Ideally, give her a quiet room to herself, where she can adjust without threats and disruptions for the first few days. Place a bowl of water and a little dry and canned food in the room not far from the crate. Put newspapers or piddle pads available at pet stores on the other side of the room. Then leave her alone and just peek in on her occasionally for the next few hours. Fully expect to find that your dog has urinated or had a bowel movement in the room. After a few days in his own room, bring the dog in his crate to an area of the house that has some human activity, but not a lot. The crate should either sit backed up into a corner or be shielded with towels or blankets draped over its top, sides and back end to give the dog a sense of safety behind him. The door to the crate should be left partially open. Here, the dog can feel some security in his crate but begin to be exposed to the all-new experiences of a human household. Next, set up the exercise pen in a room so that your dog can safely venture out of her crate but still feel somewhat protected. The pen also prevents the dog from going into parts of the house that you or she are not quite ready for. Always try to move slowly when around your puppy mill dog. Sudden and fast movements can be very frightening. Minimize loud and sudden noises, since they also can be very frightening. In fact, having another friendly and compatible dog in the house is what adopters tell us is the single most effective thing you can do to rehabilitate the adopted puppy mill dog. At night, having your dog sleep next to your bed can help him adjust to you in a non-threatening way. This may not be suitable for all adopters or the dogs themselves, so each adopter must decide which nighttime sleeping arrangement is best. You want him to learn that, in his safe place, nothing bad happens, which then allows him to feel more relaxed at all times because he knows he can always go to his safe place. Introducing puppy mill dogs to other friendly dogs in the house usually goes smoothly, but here are some tips to encourage a successful meeting. If possible, carry out the first contact between your newly adopted puppy mill dog and your current dog s in a neutral location — that is, someplace that none of the dogs have been before. With you supervising, allow them to watch and smell each other for a few hours. Let the dogs stay there for another hour or two. Next comes face-to-face introductions. If you have several dogs, do the following introduction with just one dog at a time. Put a collar and leash on your dog and also on the puppy mill dog if she accepts it. Have someone else bring the other dog into the room where you and your puppy mill dog are waiting. Be ready to use the leashes to separate them promptly if either shows any signs of aggression growling, snarling, baring of teeth, attempting to bite. When they start to show interest in other things in the environment rather than fully focusing on each other, it will tell you that they are generally accepting of each other. If you have to leave the house, confine the dogs separately so that your puppy mill dog and your other dog s cannot physically interact. You can keep them in separate rooms, or use a dependably strong baby gate to separate them, so that they can still see, smell and hear one another. Feed the puppy mill dog in an area at least 10 feet away from where the other dogs are fed, preferably where they cannot see each other while eating. If your puppy mill dog appreciates toys, she should have her own. Sharing things like toys, beds, food, and treats will come later, once your dogs become friends. Praise all the dogs for friendly behavior toward one another. Maintain a soft and soothing that is, not excited tone of voice so as not to startle or worry a noise-sensitive puppy mill dog. If you notice this happening, keep interactive sessions short until the dogs appear more calm during play. Back to top 5. Puppy mill dogs suffer on both counts. And because of this, puppy mill dogs arrive in the human home with very little willingness or ability to trust you or any other human. More importantly, the trust you want to help your dog develop is a trust in the world, of which you are one very valuable part. For puppy mill dogs, fear diminishes and trust grows in small increments over time. Our studies show that the vast majority of puppy mill dogs come to trust humans, but we have also learned that, for some of the dogs, this trust is extended to only one or two people. As long as the dog has at least one person he can trust, the opportunity exists for him to fully enjoy his life. Establish a consistent schedule that the dog will learn she can depend on. This is a critical part of building trust. Make a schedule for feeding times, going outside, play, rest and sleep — and stick to it. You want to teach your puppy mill dog that he can trust the world, that he can depend on the world to function in a reliable and nonthreatening way. Teach your dog that you are the source of good things in life, starting with food. Most puppy mill dogs will not eat from your hand at first, but with patience you can almost always teach this degree of trust. You can also build trust using treats. Sit on the floor with delicious treats placed at varying distances on the floor around you. It could take minutes or it could take months, but over time almost all puppy mill dogs will eventually start coming closer and closer to you to get the treats. Then, gradually shorten the distances between the treats and your body and between the treats and your hand, until you can place a treat in your upturned palm and have the dog take it out of your hand. When this happens, it is a huge sign of acceptance and trust. You will also want to simply teach your dog that you mean her no harm whatsoever — that you are not something to fear. So, sit on the floor, preferably and talk very softly to your dog. Many people read aloud in a soothing tone, which benefits both your dog and you, since you can get some reading done. If your dog is very frightened, you can read to her as she lies in her crate. Back to top 6. How to touch and handle your dog It is human nature to want to comfort frightened creatures by holding and embracing them. Giving hugs, cuddling, and showering them with love seems to be just what rescued puppy mill dogs need. Most puppy mill dogs are uncomfortable with physical contact by humans, and some are outright terrified. And, in light of their life experience, they have every reason to be. They have received very little or no positive human touch their whole lives. Change takes time, so be patient. Occasionally and gradually edge your arm, hand, leg, or body closer to your dog to show that nearness is no cause for alarm. Given enough time, almost all puppy mill dogs will eventually get close enough to sniff you — a huge step for them. Sometime after that, the dog will usually touch you with her nose or a paw. Let your dog have several weeks of developing confidence in her touching you before you try to touch her. If your puppy mill dog accepts your touch, you may try to pick her up, but do it in gradual steps. First, make sure she allows you to touch her sides, then allows you to place a hand under her body. Just back up to the point at which she did accept it and move through the steps more slowly. If at any point she seems distressed, stop and give her a few days before trying again. Dogs who do this also may roll onto their backs and even pass some urine. All of this is a show of submission. Celebrate your dog making her first physical contact with you. Remain absolutely calm and silent. Any sound or movement could erase the big step the dog has just made. Make direct eye contact at first. Point your head a bit off to the side and keep visual contact out of the corner of your eye. Ever startle a puppy mill dog by touching her from behind. Back to top 7. Early exposure to and interaction with humans during puppyhood is essential for the developing canine brain to form the connections that make for positive social relationships with humans throughout life. So, if a puppy is exposed to stairs in a positive way, for example, his comfort level with stairs will be natural throughout life. By contrast, if a puppy grows to adulthood without ever encountering stairs, he may have a persistent fear of stairs. As you can imagine, puppy mill dogs are routinely deprived of exposure to so many things that dogs living in homes experience every day. So, our overall goal in socializing puppy mill dogs is to lessen their fears of the basic, normal things that pet dogs encounter. We are striving to have them feel comfortable with being around humans and other dogs, being outdoors in wide open spaces, walking on solid ground, going through a doorway, playing with toys, riding in a car, hearing a vacuum cleaner, going up and down stairs, getting bathed, and so much more. Our greatest efforts, of course, are directed at helping puppy mill dogs to become comfortable around and bonded with people so they can enjoy living in human society. Because of the uniqueness of each and every rescued puppy mill dog, socialization plans must be tailored to the individual. Every aspect of the plan — what they are socialized to, where they are socialized, what specific steps and pace are required, what supplemental help e. Other dogs serve as a valuable role model for everything from how to play to where to go to the bathroom. Based on extensive reports from adopters, socialization efforts are very beneficial for many puppy mill dogs, but for others it can actually create distress. First, it is crucial for the puppy mill dog adopter to accept that every dog will maximally socialize to a different level. For example, some puppy mill dogs may be initially unwilling to walk on stairs, but over time will become completely comfortable running up and down stairs. Others may become better on stairs but never comfortable, and still others may become comfortable going up stairs but not down, or vice versa. The same is true with regard to socialization to humans. Some dogs may never achieve a comfort level with certain people in their lives. Only time will tell. All but a few of rescued puppy mill dogs will bond to their primary person, however. Have another dog around to help socialize your puppy mill dog. If you do not have one already, consider adopting another dog in need of a home. Misery may love company, but misery also compounds misery when two fearful dogs live together. Use desensitization and counter-conditioning to help socialize your dog. These techniques make the fearful stimulus e. The goal is to get your dog to associate good things with going to the vet. The same technique can be used to get a dog to enjoy the presence of people, other dogs, or a new baby in the house. When using desensitization and counter-conditioning, everything is done in small, gradual increments. Progress may occur rapidly or very slowly, and different dogs have different limits. Have all interactions between your dog and people she is shy around or fearful of e. They should stand sideways to the dog, crouch down if possible, not make direct eye contact, make no sudden movements, and talk to your dog in a calm, quiet tone of voice. If it is safe to do so i. If this goes well and your dog remains comfortable, give some treats to the person to place in the palm of the hand that she extends to your dog. Avoid the avoidable, when possible. Try pheromone therapy, which can ease anxiety and fear in many dogs. Dog-appeasing pheromone DAP comes in a spray bottle, a plug-in wall diffuser, and a collar. It is available through many online websites and at pet supply stores. Consult your veterinarian to see if this option is appropriate for your dog. Provide whatever comforting words and gestures seem to help your dog cope with his emotional challenges. How this absurd notion ever got started is a mystery, but it is scientific nonsense. Use common sense here. If you had a snake phobia and were placed in a box where snakes were poured on top of you, would you come out of the box less or more fearful of snakes? Ignoring the barking is the best response, because it prevents the dog from being rewarded for trying to get people to go away, and hence reinforcing the behavior. Back to top 8. But we must realize that bodily eliminations inside the house are not accidents at all to the puppy mill dog; in fact, to these dogs, this is perfectly normal behavior. To make matters worse, most of these dogs are very fearful, so training them to do anything — even with strictly positive techniques — can make them even more fearful. For puppy mill dogs, the basic rule is this: Reward the good, distract from the bad. Punishment is never a good idea when house-training a dog, but it can be even more harmful for the fragile and sensitive emotional make-up of rescued puppy mill dogs, impeding and even reversing any progress they are gaining in trusting people. House-training may take a week, it may take a month, it may take a year. Try not to get discouraged. As our studies clearly show, some dogs will achieve full mastery of eliminating in the right place. Be very careful when using even the gentlest-sounding house-training methods with puppy mill dogs. Because of the fear these dogs can have, even the most benign things, such as rewarding the dog for urinating in the right place, can scare them. Keep in mind that many puppy mill dogs are very frightened of being outdoors, which is, of course, a major hindrance to training a dog to do her business outside. For these dogs, use piddle pads or newspaper to train the dog to eliminate indoors initially. As an aside, not everyone wants or needs to train their dogs to do their business outside. For them, having the dog eliminate indoors on piddle pads or paper is just fine. It may happen, but do not allow it to be your expectation. Back to top 9. How to deal with marking Marking is when a dog most often a male, but occasionally a female urinates on specific objects or locations because of the influence of sex hormones or some source of stress. Male dogs in puppy mills, all of whom are not neutered obviously , mark in their cages and enclosures as a territorial signal to the other nearby males. The longer they do this before they leave the puppy mill, the more habitual it becomes and the lower the likelihood that it will fully stop even when they are neutered. In addition to the influence of sex hormones, marking can also be triggered by stress, anxiety and fear. And because we know that these emotional states are prominent in rescued puppy mill dogs, it is not surprising to find that marking is common in their new adoptive homes. Competition over human attention, sleeping places, access to certain locations e. Try dog-appeasing pheromone DAP , which comes in a spray bottle, plug-in wall diffuser and a collar, and is available for purchase via many websites. Use belly bands available at pet stores and online if needed. Clean all urine markings very thoroughly with white vinegar and an enzymatic product, which neutralizes urine odors available at pet stores and online. How to leash-train your dog It is extremely rare for dogs in puppy mills to have ever been on a leash. While we take for granted that for a dog or a human , using your neck to pull against something is no big deal, if you have never done that in your life, it would be a very unusual and possibly even scary sensation. This is likely why, in our study of puppy mill dogs, they pull against a leash much less often than typical pet dogs. Similarly, any pulling of the puppy mill dog with a leash is likely very frightening to him because he has never had something pull against this part of his body. Why leash-train? It allows you to gently get your dog out of a tight hiding place, such as out from under furniture, if need be. And it allows you to gently lead the dog to the chosen potty area if the dog is frightened of being picked up and carried. Purchase a sturdy nylon collar and a harness of proper size and fit. This will provide a mild pulling sensation on the collar that should not be upsetting. Be sure to always supervise the dog very closely to prevent the leash from catching on something and endangering your dog. Use the same leash-dragging strategy with the leash attached to the harness. You can alternate this with the sessions of collar attachment. Use only the harness if the collar is upsetting to your dog. Use delicious food treats as enticements and rewards when you first attach the collar, harness or leash, if your dog seems resistant but not distressed. Feed the treats while another person is placing the collar or harness on, or attaching the leash. Doing this in short trials over several hours or days should lead the dog to associate the apparatus with the treats and then be accepting of having them put on and wearing them. When it appears that leash-dragging is well tolerated, pick up the leash and follow your dog as she walks around, occasionally giving a very slight pull on the leash. Slowly increase the amount of resistance so she can feel what a little tension against the collar or harness feels like. Using this method, most dogs become quite comfortable with walking on leash. When she seems relatively confident with the outdoors, you can take her outside on the leash. Almost all of these things are eventually achievable, but you must go very slowly and be guided by what your dog shows he is ready for. Back to top .How to crate-train your dog The first thing to know about crate-training a puppy mill dog is this: Not all puppy mill dogs can be — or should be — crate-trained. Seeing, and especially being in, a cage-like enclosure may arouse memories of the puppy mill. Why crate-train? For this function, the crate door is left open. There are times when you need your dog to be in her crate, such as during the night or when workers are in the house and your door may be inadvertently left open. For this function, the crate door is kept closed. Make being in the crate a positive experience for the dog. Try feeding the dog in her crate and offer treats in the crate. In fact, anytime you lead your dog into the crate for the purpose of confinement, include a favorite treat e. Make sure your dog has first had the opportunity to go to the bathroom anytime she is put in the crate with the door closed. Start with short periods of time in the closed-door crate and slowly work up to longer periods of time. This means first observing how long your dog is comfortable in the crate before showing any indications of anxiety, such as pacing, pawing at the crate door, digging into the corners of the crate, crying, whimpering or barking. If possible, do several of these sessions each day. Then, over the next few weeks, very gradually increase the time she is spending in the crate during each session. In most cases, you will be able to extend the length of time that she can comfortably spend in the crate by several hours. He will very quickly form a mental association between crate and fear, and that may simply escalate the fear level. Use the crate in any way as punishment. Allow anything to make the crate an unpleasant experience. How to teach your dog to respond to basic cues Teaching your dog to respond to basic cues e. Basic training also establishes a leader and follower relationship, which is the most basic foundation for correcting any problem behaviors that may arise later. For the dogs who are negatively affected by training, there are two main factors at work: fear and an impaired ability to focus and concentrate. Actual training methods can be found in many books and online videos, including the Best Friends online pet care library. What you need to know here is how standard methods of basic training must be modified for the special needs of puppy mill dogs. Take your dog to training classes if you prefer having the structure of a class, but only if the other dogs, people and commotion do not cause your dog distress. Make certain that the professional trainer if you use one is knowledgeable about rescued puppy mill dogs and has had experience with them. Learning requires the mind to concentrate and maintain focus, and our studies show that, when compared to typical pet dogs, puppy mill dogs are less able to do this. None of this means that puppy mill dogs cannot learn, but they will have different capacities for how fast and how much they can learn. Try desensitization and counter-conditioning techniques if your dog seems very fearful or distressed by attempts at training. How to deal with poop-eating Dogs coming out of puppy mills do some strange things, but eating poop known as coprophagia is certainly one of the most unappealing to us humans. Puppy mill dogs eat poop for many reasons — ranging from hunger to relief of boredom. There are food additives that can make poop distasteful to a dog. The additives must be added to the food of any dog whose poop your dog is eating. Other things that your dog may prefer over poop include crumbled dog treats or small bits of bread. Punish your dog for eating poop. If you are considering applying for one of our puppy mill survivors, please read the following essay and think very carefully about whether you can provide the consistency, patience, experience and care that a puppy mill dog requires to thrive. If you are a first time dog owner, a puppy mill dog is probably not for you. However, once you have been an experienced dog owner, you may find that sharing your life with a puppy mill dog creates a unique bond. Please note that an adopted puppy mill rescued dog may be at different stages of rehab so we have tried to start this from the beginning. Permission is granted to use this article, unedited, on your website or in print, as long as credit is linked to this page. Every mill survivor is different. What works on one, or many, will completely fail on others; the only thing that is consistent is that they will need lots of patience, understanding, love, and probably most importantly, unconditional acceptance of what they are and what their limitations may be. At first glance a mill survivor may look like many of your friends' dogs; maybe not a perfect example of the breed, but close. What you won't see is the condition they were in when they came into rescue. Many have fur so matted that it all had to be shaved off, and even the short haired breeds suffer from thin dull coats. Many times removing the filth and matting have revealed open sores, usually from flea allergies or sarcoptic mange. Their ears are often full of filth and usually mites, and some survivors suffer from permanent hearing loss because of untreated ear infections. Most survivors require the removal of rotten teeth, even young dogs. Their gums are usually very infected and the teeth have excessive buildup on them. Many vets who are not familiar with puppy mill rescued dogs will miscalculate the age of the dog if using only the teeth as their guide. Many survivors also suffer from swollen, splayed and sore feet from so much time walking on wire. While finally getting some good nutrition and extensive medical care after arriving in rescue, all too often there remains the psychological damage that can't be fixed with a bath, medicine, or surgery. We would love to say that every puppy mill survivor only needs love to turn it into a wonderful family pet, but that would be a lie. Love is definitely needed in large amounts, but so is patience. The damage done during the years in the mill usually can be overcome, but it takes time and dedication. It takes a very special adopter for one of these dogs. Not being "up to it" is no crime, but you need to be honest with yourself, and us, about your expectations. These dogs have already been through more than their share of heartache and if your entire family is not willing to make the commitment, the dog is better off staying in our care until the perfect home for them is found. Handling: Many mill survivors have spent their entire lives in the mill with only an elevated wire cage to call home. Puppies growing up in a mill miss out on many crucial socialization periods with humans and they never learn to trust, to love, or to play. They have had minimum physical contact with people and have virtually no concept of what to expect or what is expected of them when they are placed in a family situation. Their life in the mill may have been what we would consider unpleasant, but it is the only life they have ever known. In the mill, they were probably fed and watered using automatic dispensers, and their feces and urine was only cleaned after it fell through the wire that they lived on. Actual human contact normally came when they were being vaccinated, dewormed, or moved to a new cage to breed or to whelp puppies. Many of the quirks that mill dogs might have will be discovered while the dog is still in our rescue, but there are things that may develop after the dog feels a little more comfortable in your home. Most of the dogs we encounter have had their spirit broken many years before and aggression is not normally something we encounter; however, there are memory triggers that the dog may experience after it is settled in your home, so we will talk briefly about these. The physical contact that they have received probably has not been pleasant. For one thing, because they are not handled enough, they are scared. Many mills handle their "stock" by the scruff of the neck. They have work to do, and don't really want to stand around holding some stinky little dog any longer than necessary. It is not uncommon for these survivors to be sensitive at the backs of their necks, after all, touch there brings the unexpected. Many mill dogs will try to always face you, not trusting you enough to give you easy access to them from behind. NEVER startle a mill survivor from behind: you will lose any trust that you may have gained. Always make sure that they are anticipating being picked up and consistently tell them what you are going to do with the same word, like "up". It is not uncommon for a mill dog to drop their bellies to the floor when they know you are going to pick them up, some will even roll on their backs, often urinating in the process. This is a submissive move on the dog's part, and while it may be frustrating trying to pick up a dog in this position, these dogs will seldom show aggression in their lives. It is okay to pick up a dog while they are in this position, but if time is not of the essence, encourage the dog to come to you by sitting a few feet away and calling him. The most common posture we see in mill dogs is the "freeze;" the dog will initially try to escape you, but when they realize there is no escape, they simply freeze up--rigid, like a statue--and accept their "fate. Always be gentle and try to avoid picking them up until you see that they are receptive to it. Imagine how you would feel if taken hostage at gunpoint. The gunman may never harm you in any way, but you are aware of the danger the entire time, and you don't have the ability to leave when you want. No matter how nice the gunman is to you, you will never enjoy the experience and will always watch for an escape route; however, you can turn the tables around and see a ray of hope. Imagine the gunman has been captured and you decide to visit him in jail. Now you are in control. You call all the shots, and you have the ability to leave at any time. The bottom line is that these dogs have to progress at their own pace. Anything you force them to do will not be pleasant to them; let them visit with you on their terms, whenever possible. .Learning about the House: Many times when you bring a mill survivor into your home, it is their instinct to hide in a quiet corner. Any new dog that you bring into your home should be kept separated from other family pets for 7 days. During this time it is fine to crate or confine them to a quiet area. After that, though, they should have exposure to the household. If crating, the crate should be in a central location. The ideal spot is one where there is frequent walking and activity. This allows the dog to feel safe in the crate, yet observe everyday activity and become accustomed to it; they need to hear the table being set, the dishwasher running, phones ringing, and people talking. Very few mill dogs know what a leash is. After the quarantine, when the dog is out of the crate and supervised, it is not a bad idea to let them drag a leash around with them. Let them get used to the feel. It is easy to fall into the mindset that they must be pampered and carried everywhere, but leash training is important. It will make your life easier to have a leash trained dog, but it will also offer your dog confidence in the future. Gaining Trust: A mill dog has no reason to trust you. Your trust needs to be earned, little by little. Patience is a very important part of rehabbing a mill survivor. We have seen a lot of mill dogs that don't want to eat whenever people are around. It is important that your mill dog be fed on a schedule, with you nearby. You don't have to stand and watch over them, but you should be in the same room with them. They need to know that their yummy meal is coming from you. For the majority of mill dogs, accepting a treat right out of your hand is a huge show of trust. Offer treats on a regular basis especially as a reward. Don't concern yourself too much if your dog does not eat for a few days. Because most of our mill rescues have been fed with self-feeders and confined to small places, it is not uncommon for them to be a little overweight. If there is no vomiting or diarrhea and your dog is otherwise acting healthy, a few days of nibbling at their food while they learn to live by your schedule, is not going to hurt them. It is important to teach them that food is fed on a schedule and you should not be leaving food down at all times. While you shouldn't force yourself upon your dog, she does need to get used to you. Sit and talk quietly while gently petting or massaging your dog. It is best to do this an area where she, not necessarily you, is the most comfortable. Some dogs sadly, never will adjust, and we'lll talk more about them later. Never allow friends to force attention on a mill survivor. Ask them not to look your dog directly in the eyes. It is not uncommon for mill dogs to simply never accept outsiders. Let your dog set the pace. If the dog approaches, ask them to talk quietly and hold out a hand. No quick movements. Ask that any barking be ignored. Remember that these dogs bark to warn and scare off intruders. If you acknowledge the barking you may be reinforcing it with attention. If you take your guest outside, you have just reinforced to your dog that barking will make the intruder go away. Housebreaking: A child spends the first one to two years of their life soiling their diaper and having you remove the dirty diaper and replace it with a clean one. A puppy mill dog spends its entire life soiling its living area. Potty training a child and housebreaking a puppy mill dog are the exact same procedures.A regular schedule, constant reinforcement, praise, and commitment on your part are musts! Would you scream at your child, march him to the bathroom and make him sit on the toilet AFTER you discovered he soiled his diaper? A dog is no different in this sense; scolding them after the deed is done is of no benefit to anyone. The two most important things you can do are to get your new dog on a regular feeding schedule which will put them on a regular potty schedule and to observe them closely after feeding time. Getting them on a premium, low residue food is very important. This will produce a stool that normally is firm very easy to clean up and only one or two bowel movements a day are normal. Low cost or over the counter foods have a lot of fillers, and it is very hard to get a dog on a regular cycle using these foods. Before you even begin to housebreak them, you must learn their schedule. As soon as they are finished eating, command "outside". Always use the exact same word in the exact same tone. Watch them closely outside and observe their pattern as they prepare to defecate. Some will turn circles, some will scratch at the ground, some may find a corner, some may sniff every inch of the ground, some will get a strange look on their face.We could give you a million tips that our adopters have found to work best for them, but as we have said, every dog is different. As long as you always keep in mind that housebreaking and potty training are one in the same, you should eventually see results. Never do to a dog what you would not do to a child. It may take a week, it may take a month, it may take a year.In most cases, the success of housebreaking depends on your commitment. While we have focussed mainly on bowel movements, urinating in the house is just as hard to correct as defecating in the house if not worse. Below we will discuss "marking," which many people associate only with male dogs. We will go into that in more detail, but if urinating in the house remains a problem for your dog, we highly recommend crate training. This can be researched online in more detail, but if crate training is not working because your dog is soiling in the crate, you should discontinue the training immediately--as you are only reinforcing that it is okay to soil their area. In general, if you can understand your dog's bowel patterns, you will usually find that they urinate before or after a bowel movement. Reinforce the positive and work on the negative, as most dogs will understand "outside" and associate it with both urinating and defecating. Of course, in the meantime, you will want to protect your carpets by either removing any that can be rolled up, or confining the dog to a tiled floor when you aren't holding it on your lap. This should only be done during the training process, as socialization is just as important as house training and often tiled floors are in areas that we don't spend a lot of time. Marking: Puppy mill survivors all have one thing in common.A dog that marks its territory is 'warning' other dogs that this is its area.However, in a puppy mill situation, the dog's area is normally a 2X4 cage with other dogs in and around their 'territory'. It becomes a constant battle of establishing territory and it is not uncommon to see male and female survivors with marking problems. Normally, marking is seen in dogs with a dominant nature. This is good in the sense that these dogs can normally withstand verbal correction better than submissive dogs. The word 'NO' will become your favorite word as you try to deal with the problem of dogs that mark. Don't be afraid to raise your voice and let the dog know that you are not happy. Always use the exact same word and don't follow 'NO' with "now what has mommy told you about that, you are a bad dog. You have to teach them that it is not acceptable to do this in the house. The only way to do this is to constantly show your disappointment and stimulate their need to 'dominate' by allowing them more time outside, and even to areas where you know other dogs have been.While you and your survivor learn about each other, and your survivor develops a sense of respect towards you, you will have to protect your home from the damage caused by marking. Here are a few tips that you will find helpful. White vinegar is your best friend. Keep a spray bottle handy at all times. Use the vinegar anytime you see your dog mark. The vinegar will neutralize the smell that your dog just left behind. Using other cleaning products may actually cause your dog to mark over the same area again. Most cleaning products contain ammonia.Your dog will feel the need to mark over normal cleaning products, but normally has no interest in areas neutralized by vinegar. Potty Pads.These can be found in any pet store, but most 'housebreaking pads' are treated with ammonia to encourage a puppy to go on the pad instead of the carpet; since we are trying to discourage your dog from marking, these aren't always the best choice. You might check at a home medical supply store. The blue and white pads used to protect beds usually work best. Staple, tape or pin these pads white side facing outward to any area that your dog is prone to mark walls, furniture, etc. Do not replace the pads when your dog soils them.These are not a solution to the problem, but will help protect your home while you deal with the problem. Scotch Guard. Scotch Guard is really nothing more than a paraffin based protector. It puts a waxy substance down which repels water and spills and in our case, urine. Shake and spray this onto the fabric areas you want to protect, such as the base of the sofa and the carpet below doorways or areas your dog is apt to mark. It may make the area stiff feeling at first but it will normally 'blend' in with normal household temperatures and humidity. After the first use, you will need to microwave the bottle and emerge the spray mechanism in a bowl of hot water so that any wax residue will melt. I have never had any problems, but it is always best to check beforehand. Belly Bands. Belly bands can be easily made at home out of things you probably already have. Depending on the size of your dog you can use the elastic end of tube socks, the sleeve of a sweatshirt, etc. Simply fit the material to your dog and then place a female sanitary napkin under the penis. Another easy way is to measure your dog, cut the fabric and sew on Velcro to hold it in place. There are also many sites on the Internet to order these if making them yourself is just not up your alley. Just remember to take the belly band off every time you bring your dog out to potty. Again, this is not a solution, but a protective measure. Quirks: Poo-poo, shoo-shoo, ca-ca, doo-doo, 2, feces, poop, stool.But nothing is more gross than owning a dog who eats poop! Coprophagia is the technical term, but for the purpose of this article, we're just going to call it the 'affliction'. Dogs of all breeds, ages and sizes have the affliction but in puppy mill rescues, it is not uncommon at all to find dogs afflicted with this horrible habit. As in any bad habit, the cure lies in understanding the unacceptable behavior. There are three primary reasons that a puppy mill survivor is afflicted. We'll start with the most common, and easiest to remedy. It tastes good and they are hungry! Rescues that have come from a mill where dogs were not fed properly often resort to eating their own or other dog's feces as a source of food. These types of situations will usually remedy themselves when the dog realizes that he is always going to get fed. It is also easy to discourage this behavior by adding over-the-counter products to their food which are manufactured for this purpose. Ask your vet which products are available and you will normally see results in weeks. Learned behavior. This is usually the cause of puppy mill dogs that have the affliction. There are several reasons why a dog learned to behave like this, but the most common cause is being housed with dominant dogs who fight over food. These dominant dogs will often guard the food dish and prevent the more submissive dogs from eating even if the dominant dog is not hungry. Food aggression in caged dogs is usually fast and furious and often results in severe injury to the submissive dogs. Because the dominant dog is often eating much more than is needed, the stool is virtually undigested and contains many of the nutrients and 'flavors' of the original meal; therefore almost as tasty to the submissive dog as if he'd ate the real thing. Puppies that were raised with a dominant mother or dominant litter mates also pick up this habit very early--in this case, it is a little harder to treat, but it can usually be done. This eating pattern is usually maintained throughout the dog's life, so the age of your dog will play a big role in how hard it is to correct the behavior. It's become habit.Dogs with the affliction will actually go hunting for a fresh stool when you take them outside. The key is to give your dog something better to hunt for. You may find something that he likes better and is as readily available and affordable. The good thing about popcorn is what your dog doesn't eat, the birds will. We can almost guarantee that once your dog has learned to search out the popcorn, he'll pass those fresh turds right up, LOL! It may take weeks or months before your dog 'unlearns' to seek out stools but most dogs are receptive to this training. You may have to sprinkle the lawn with popcorn the rest of your dog's life.As mentioned above, Coprophagia means 'eating poop'. Coprophagia is a form of a much more serious problem called Pica. Pica is the unnatural compulsion to eat foreign objects. Dogs suffering from Pica will eat not only stools, but rocks, dirt, sticks, etc. A good rescuer will observe dogs prior to placement and will recognize the seriousness of this problem. A dog suffering from Pica should never be placed in an inexperienced home or any home that is not aware of the problem and the dangers. Dogs suffering from Pica will often end up having surgery.If you are the owner of a dog which you believe suffers from Pica, I suggest you consult your vet; these dogs often require medication for their disorder and only your vet can guide you on the best way to proceed. Before we close this section on Pica, we want to say that true Pica is rare. Most dogs will chew on sticks or rocks--or sofas and table legs. However a dog suffering from Pica will not just chew on these items.Just because your dog is eating his own stool.If in doubt, consult your vet. The "special" ones: Occasionally, we see the survivor who has survived the mill, but at such a great cost that they can never be "brought around". These are the dogs that have endured so much suffering that they remind us of children who are abused, and survive by separating their mind from the body. These damaged dogs will never fully trust anyone. So where does that leave these poor souls? Most are still capable of living out a wonderful life. They need a scheduled environment but most importantly, a home where they are accepted for who and what they are. They may never jump up on a couch and cuddle with you, or bring you a ball to play catch, but you will see the joy that they take in living each day knowing that they will have clean bedding, fresh food and water, and unconditional love. To them, those small comforts alone are pure bliss. These "broken ones" are the ones that normally never leave their foster homes. Ironically, these types of dogs normally do very well in a group-dog setting. They seem to have shunned the world, and most certainly mankind, and have created their own little world without humans. Whenever we suspect that a mill rescue may be "too far gone" for a fast paced family, we try to place them in experienced homes; quiet homes; or homes with other dogs. These are by far the hardest ones for our hearts to accept, but they are also a constant reminder of why we do what we do. We work not only to adopt dogs, but to educate their new owners about the truth behind that puppy in the pet store window. We hope that you will keep a journal or blog on the reform of your puppy mill dog, and we hope that you will join us in our campaign to educate the public--through the eyes of the survivors--by always taking the opportunity to further educate others. Together we have made a difference in the life of just one dog, but together we can also make a difference in the lives of hundreds of thousands of dogs still caged in puppy mills. It is only when the public realizes the connection between pet stores and puppy mills that we will end the demand, end the supply, and end the abuse! Copyright A New Start on Life,

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View all adoptable dogs Our Mission Our mission is to find safe, loving, lifelong homes for Golden Retrievers. No Golden Retriever will ever be turned away, regardless of medical needs or age. Every furry friend goes through a wellness check with our experienced veterinarians. We make sure every dog is up-to-date with current vaccinations, are spayed and neutered if necessary, receive heartworm treatment and are treated for any other medical issues that are needed. We have a c 3 classification with the IRS, making your donation tax deductible. We also meet the requirements for corporate matching, employee giving, and volunteer grant programs. Help us out today! Volunteer We are always in need of kind-hearted volunteers to join our team. Check out a few of the great volunteer roles available and then fill out an application form. Our Volunteer Director will get in touch and match your time and talent to our needs. Volunteer today! Community Events These community events are vital to new volunteer recruitment as well as finding homes for our dogs. Most events are held on the weekends throughout the year. Volunteers are always needed to help set up, man our table, and help tear down. We have answers. What are Golden Retriever puppies for sale near Birmingham like? A Golden Retriever is a large, lovable, and highly intelligent breed of dog. Their thick golden coats make them irresistibly cute, and many people find that they can't help but take home one of these beautiful animals. Golden Retrievers were originally used as working dogs, which is why they are so obedient and loyal. They excel in activities like tracking, retrieving, and obedience competitions and are also great for jogging companions, search-and-rescue missions, and as therapy dogs. With Golden Retriever puppies for sale in Birmingham, what is their coat like? The Golden Retriever has a beautiful double-coat that consists of a waterproof, outer coat and a fluffy, downy undercoat. This coat may come in different shades of gold ranging from light cream to dark golden. The long, thick outer coat can protect them from water, cold temperatures, and even some brush and brambles. The undercoat can provide insulation during the cold months. Grooming for the Golden Retriever can be time-consuming and require weekly brushing to keep the coat free of mats and tangles. Do Birmingham Golden Retriever puppies for sale have special dietary needs? Yes, Golden Retrievers do have special dietary needs. Unlike some other breeds, Goldens require a nutrient-dense and balanced diet to stay healthy and active. Protein should make up between 18 and 25 percent of their diet, and it should come from sources like fish, poultry, and meat. They should also be given omega-3 fatty acids and other fats to help keep their coat and skin healthy. Fruits and vegetables, as well as grains and cereals provide necessary carbs, vitamins, and minerals. Am I ready to adopt Golden Retriever puppies in Birmingham? Before bringing your new Golden Retriever home, it's important to create a safe environment for them. Start by puppy-proofing the home by making sure any areas with electrical cords are secured, any cleaning or potentially toxic materials are moved out of reach, and any small objects that could be swallowed are put away. Next, get the supplies you'll need for your pup, such as a comfortable bed, healthy food and treats, water and food dishes, and any toys you'd like them to have. How big do Golden Retrievers for sale in Birmingham get? Golden Retrievers are a larger size of dog, typically weighing anywhere from 55 to 75 pounds as adults. On average, mature male Golden Retrievers can reach between 21 and 24 inches tall, while females tend to be slightly smaller, ranging between 20 and 22 inches. That being said, some may be smaller or larger than this depending on the individual. The most important thing is that Golden Retrievers receive a balanced diet and plenty of exercise to stay healthy and strong. How many minutes per day should I walk Golden Retriever puppies near Birmingham? The amount of time you should walk your Golden Retriever on a daily basis depends on a number of factors including age, energy level, and size. Generally speaking, an adult Golden Retriever should receive at least 30 minutes to an hour of daily exercise. This can take the form of a leisurely walk, a more efficient hike, or even playing fetch. Of course, exercise needs may vary depending on the individual dog, so it is important to monitor your pup and adjust the amount of time he is walking per day accordingly. Are Golden Retrievers in Birmingham good with kids? Golden Retrievers are renowned for having gentle dispositions. Their intelligence and ability to learn quickly make them excellent family companions. They are patient and playful, so they are ideal around children and are always willing to share their love. Golden Retrievers are even-tempered, affectionate, and loyal. Their warm and loving nature ensures they will happily give any child they meet their full attention. With supervision, they are the perfect companion for adventures and activities, so they are more than capable of being a wonderful companion to any child. Is training Birmingham Golden Retrievers for sale easy? Training a Golden Retriever can be an easy endeavor if the proper techniques and principles of dog training are followed. Golden Retrievers are known for their intelligence, athleticism, and eagerness to please, making them well-suited to learn with positive rewards-based training. This approach focuses on rewarding desired behaviors with praise, verbal cues, and treats in order to reinforce good behavior. While patience and consistency are key during the training process, Golden Retrievers are quick learners and exceptionally responsive to the positive reinforcement of rewards-based training.

One or both of this puppy's parents have undergone genetic testing. One or both of this puppy's parents are hip certified. One or both of this puppy's parents is OFA Heart certified. This puppy has had early neurological stimulation exercises. The sad truth is that many pet store purchased pups actually come from puppy mills. Basically, there is zero authenticity with pet stores. When it comes to adopting any animal from a pet store, there is an increased risk of unforeseen health or genetic problems. You also cultivate a life-long relationship with the breeder, meaning support is available to you anytime you may need it. With My Golden Retriever Puppies , you have the option to come and visit both the puppy and the breeder in person! Golden Retrievers are an adaptable breed, meaning they are better at adapting to seasonal changes and various types of climate than certain other breeds. Goldens sport a double-coat, which ensures that these sweet pups are able to tolerate slightly colder temperatures than their friends from other breeds. Your pup deserves better than that, which is why here at My Golden Retriever Puppies , we ensure high-quality care is taken of your pet at all times. We even have all types of golden retrievers for sale! At My Golden Retriever Puppies, we pride ourselves on our golden retriever price being fair and affordable for high quality puppies. Location Information for Virginia Beach Customers Our home office is located in Ohio, but we understand that long-distance travel can be inconvenient. If you prefer to meet a breeder in person, they may be able to offer private visits at their home. Of course! Here at My Golden Retriever Puppies , we value family and authenticity, which is why we always guarantee our pups through our 2-year genetic health guarantee. Like adopting a Golden Retriever from a pet store, there is an increased risk when adopting a pup from a rescue center or shelter as well. For example, pups purchased through a shelter or rescue center are far less likely to come with the kinds of health guarantees and reassurances that a breeder can provide. What type of Golden Retrievers are sold in Virginia Beach? We have some good news! Ready to make your Golden Retriever dreams come true? Take a look at our convenient list of available puppies. How do I know which breeders to trust in Virginia Beach? Our independent network of trusted breeders have already been pre-screened and verified, so that you can focus on what really matters: choosing your dream puppy. Be the first to know when we have new puppies! All Rights Reserved. Share 0 Shares When purchasing any new puppy from a dog breeder, it is crucial that you look into them to make sure that they are reputable before actually buying a puppy from them. When it comes to Golden Retrievers, the best breeders will health test their dogs before breeding them and offer new owners a health guarantee. Good dog breeders also make sure that puppies are up to date on things like vaccinations, vet visits, and other types of preventative care. All of their dogs come from established pedigrees, and they are all cleared through health testing before being bred. This ensures that their adult dogs and puppies are all in genetically sound health. Of course, puppies are all kept up to date on all of their age-appropriate and vet-recommended vaccinations, deworming, and vet visits. This gives them plenty of room to run, play, and explore. It is important to note that you will likely need to be placed on a waitlist and put down a deposit before purchasing a Golden Retriever puppy from Meadow Grace Goldens. The OFA, working with the breed's parent club, recommends the following basic health screening tests for all breeding stock. Each of our dogs has a link to the K9data showing test results. Tests that are performed: Echocardiogram The examiner must be able to perform two-dimensional, pulsed-wave Doppler, and continuous-wave Doppler examinations of the heart. The availability of color Doppler is valuable but not essential for most examinations. The echocardiographic examination should be performed and interpreted by individuals with advanced training in cardiac diagnosis. Board certification by the American College of Veterinary Internal Medicine, Specialty of Cardiology is considered by the American College of Veterinary Medical Association as the benchmark of clinical proficiency for veterinarians in clinical cardiology, and examination by a Diplomate of this Specialty Board is recommended. Other veterinarians may be able to perform these examinations provided they have the appropriate equipment and have received advanced training in echocardiography. This view is accepted world wide for detection and assessment of hip joint irregularities and secondary arthritic hip joint changes. To obtain this view, the animal must be placed on its back in dorsal recumbency with the rear limbs extended and parallel to each other. The knees stifles are rotated internally and the pelvis is symmetric. Chemical restraint anesthesia to the point of relaxation is recommended. For elbows, the animal is placed on its side and the respective elbow is placed in an extreme flexed position. Eyes Genetic diseases are those that are passed on from parent to offspring through genes that carry the codes for each specific trait. Many of the diseases and disorders that affect the eyes have genetic factors. OFA Eye Certification examinations are screening exams performed by board certified veterinary ophthalmologists. The exam is performed 30 to 40 minutes after pupil-dilating drops are placed in the eyes. The Eye Certification exam consists of indirect ophthalmoscopy and slit lamp biomicroscopy. It is not a comprehensive ocular health examination, but rather an eye screening exam. For example, Eye Certification exams do not entail measuring tear production, staining the eyes for the presence of corneal ulcers, or measuring intraocular pressures. If a serious ocular health problem such as glaucoma is suspected during the Eye Certification exam, the examiner will recommend a more comprehensive ocular examination. The diagnoses obtained during an OFA Companion Animal Eye Registry exam refer only to the observable phenotype clinical appearance of an animal. Thus it is possible for a clinically normal animal to be a carrier abnormal genotype of genetic abnormalities. Embark DNA Testing for genetic diversity, health conditions, and traits. Complete and return Puppy Questionnaire, please be thorough as this help determine puppy placement. Puppy application cannot be completed on a smart phone sorry you will need to complete it on your computer. Once puppies are born I will reach out to schedule a phone conversation. If there is a mutual agreement that Argos Golden is the right fit and we are able to accommodate your request for a puppy, your deposit will be required at this time, with a signed copy of the contract. What if I don't want a "show dog"? Why do people recommend choosing a breeder who shows their dogs to folks who are just looking for a pet and have no interest in showing? Why should breeding to breed standard be important to a pet home? Soundness: The state of physical and mental health when all organs and faculties are functioning properly, each in its rightful relation to each other. Type: Breed type encompasses appearance, character, condition, bone structure, temperament, and movement; "breed type is all these things. Gait: The gait of a dog is its quality of movement. You want to see ease of movement, unimpaired by illness or poor structure. Temperament: The general attitude a dog has towards other animals and people. The ideal disposition is one of a kindly, outgoing, tractable nature; eager to please and non-aggressive towards man or animal. The Golden has much that appeals to people; his gentle ways, intelligence and adaptability make him an ideal dog. Aggressiveness towards humans or other animals, or any evidence of shyness in an adult should be severely penalized. You want a pet, a companion, not a show dog, right? Well, you chose a Golden for a reason. That their good and kind nature predisposes many Goldens to be excellent therapy dogs. Good, responsible breeders seek to preserve those definitive and positive characteristics. What about type and structure? How the dog is put together, able to move freely and comfortably? Or just trust someone who has no interest in proving their dogs? Well-bred, but maybe with a slight imperfection, and those are the puppies placed in pet homes. If you want a healthy dog, with a properly sweet temperament, choose your breeder wisely! This was authored by Terri Lewin Gilbert. Please direct any inquiries to her if you have any questions about sharing it on any other media. The simple answer to that is no. You decide what sex you would want. I will do an aptitude test called The Volhard Pet Aptitude Test on the puppy to help determine which puppy will be placed with each family. Top Dog Tips: The ideal age to test the puppy is at 49 days of age when the puppy is neurologically complete and it has the brain of an adult dog. With each passing day after the 49th day the responses will be tainted by prior learning. These tests determined that it was indeed possible to predict future behavioral traits of adult dogs by testing puppies at 49 days of age. Testing before or after that age affected the accuracy of the test, depending on the time before or after the 49th day. PAT uses a scoring system from and consists of ten tests. The tests are done consecutively and in the order listed. Each test is scored separately, and interpreted on its own merits. The scores are not averaged, and there are no winners or losers. The entire purpose is to select the right puppy for the right home. Together with Social Attraction and Following a key indicator for ease or difficulty in training. During the testing make a note of the heart rate of the pup, which is an indication of how it deals with stress, as well as its energy level. Puppies come with high, medium or low energy levels. You have to decide for yourself, which suits your life style. Dogs with high energy levels need a great deal of exercise, and will get into mischief if this energy is not channeled into the right direction. Finally, look at the overall structure of the puppy. You see what you get at 49 days age. If the pup has strong and straight front and back legs, with all four feet pointing in the same direction, it will grow up that way, provided you give it the proper diet and environment in which to grow. If you notice something out of the ordinary at this age, it will stay with puppy for the rest of its life. He will not grow out of it. Puppy Development and Stimulation Before your puppy goes home with you it will have experienced many interaction with people and situations. Grooming: Your puppy will have had many baths along with being placed on a table for drying and grooming. Nails will have been trimmed weekly from week 2 of age. Starting with a clipper and ending with a dremmel tool. Potty training: Potty training starts early at 4 weeks of age. Crate training: Your puppy will have a great head start on getting used to a crate and will have taken many naps in the crate by itself. Crate training is VERY important for the safety of your puppy. Socialization: Your puppy will have been exposed to many different people, noises, smells and situations. My goal is for you to have a even tempered, well socialized puppy. This girl is currently super scared of new things and will need a lot of work to grow her confidence. Willow is a 2 year old, female Golden Retriever. She weighs 59 Pounds but looks way smaller and compact. She will be spayed, vaccinated and microchipped as part of her adoption. She is thankfully Heartworm negative. Willow does have a serious medical issue. She has a higher level heart murmur. She will need a family that can afford cardiology visits and likely medication for life. This is not fixable, it is something that needs to be managed throughout her life. Currently you would never know there is anything wrong with her health. If you do not have serious funding for vet care please do not apply to adopt her. She needs a home capable of supporting her through this for life. She is very shy at first and startles easily with loud noises. If you give her a few hours she becomes your shadow. She loves to cuddle up with you and get all the pets. She is doing great with other dogs and another confident dog in the house really helps her. We do not know how she would do with cats. She is not fostered with kids but did great at the vet with children loving on her. She does need the kids to give her space for the first few days while she adjusts. Willow is doing great with her training so far. Shes potty trained and crate trained. She will go in her crate on her own and relax if you leave the door open. Shes great in the car and does well on the leash. She has a medium energy level currently. When she settles in she gets more playful and excited but also has a lot of relaxed cuddle times. She loves you to be petting and touching her at all times. She likes running around the yard and is starting to play with toys. Due to her shy nature and her heart issues we are requiring a fenced yard for her. So far we have not seen any issues with her sharing food, treats or toys with other dogs or people. Goldens are just like other dogs. They need training, exercise and socialization. There seems to be a false narrative that they are instantly easy perfect dogs and that is just not true. Every dog needs their owner to support them with the things listed above. They also typically have a high energy level until they get a little older. Proper exercise is crucial. Shes overall a very sweet and gentle girl with so much potential. Please only apply if you meet all the requirements and can provide her the life she deserves.

We specialize in breeding Mini Goldendoodles as well as a few other breeds. We also have partnered up with several other high quality breeders that raise mini goldendoodle pups that meet our strict genetic criteria and testing. So we usually have a good selection of very high quality puppies. View Our Available Puppies! Not all mini Goldendoodles are equal, there are a few different versions to choose from each having a little different genetic background based on the pups parents. We will explain all the differences in Mini Goldendoodle puppies and how they are bred below. We raise all versions of the mini goldendoodle breed. F1 Mini Goldendoodle Pups. A F1 puppy is also known as a First Generation puppy. The puppies mother is a Golden Retriever and the pups dad is a Mini Poodle. This version of mini goldendoodle usually has soft wavy or curly puppy fur. They will shed until they lose their puppy fur, after shedding they will shed a lot less, but will shed. This version is partially hypoallergenic and usually requires low maintenance. F1 mini goldendoodles usually need to be groomed every 6 months along with daily brushing to keep their curly hair from matting and getting tangled. The dogs usually grow up having great temperaments similar to golden retrievers. They usually get about inches high at the shoulder and range in weight from pounds. F1b Mini Goldendoodle Pups. An F1b is known as a second-generation mini goldendoodle with the pups mother being already an F1 Goldendoodle and the pups dad being a mini poodle also. So the difference between F1 and F1b is that the mom is not a golden retriever but an actual F1 Goldendoodle. They also have very soft curly hair but with almost no shedding. This F1b version is semi-hypoallergenic and a better choice for anyone who has pet allergies. The F1b also should be brushed on a daily basis but will need to be groomed more frequently then a F1. A 6 to 8 week grooming schedule is recommended to keep their coat in perfect condition. F1b Mini goldendoodles get around 18 to 20 inches tall at the shoulders and range between pounds in weight. F1bb Mini Goldendoodle Pups. An F1bb goldendoodle is also known as a third-generation mini goldendoodle. This mini goldendoodle version has a coat more similar to a poodle than of a golden retriever. This is because the pup is more of a poodle than a retriever. Making it the very best version for anyone with pet allergies. A 6 to 8 week grooming schedule is required to help prevent knots or matting. This version is super intelligent and loving, and usually seems to have more energy than the other versions of Mini goldendoodles. This version is usually smaller in size, weighing around pounds and only getting inches tall at the shoulders. The smaller size makes them a great size for smaller homes and apartments. So if you live near Columbus Ohio and are looking for a healthy and beautiful Mini Goldendoodle puppy then checkout our available pups now by Clicking Here. Below are some Mini Goldendoodle Pups that have been adopted! Are you looking for Mini Goldendoodles in Ohio? At Hidden Road Doodles we know Doodles! We are a family doodle breeder that has specialized in Poodle crosses for over a decade now. We believe in the best nutrition for our puppies and parents as well as making sure our puppies are well socialized by the time they are ready for their forever home. All of our puppies come with a one-year health guarantee against congenital illness. Our farm is located in the rolling hills of central Ohio and we would love to have you stop by for a visit. Please feel free to contact us with any questions or concerns you may have. Our puppies are excited to move to Ohio! These sweet F1b Mini Goldendoodles are just what you have been looking for!!! They all would be super excited to meet you. Each of these puppies has been very well looked after. They are all up to date on their shots and dewormed, and have all had wellness checks with the vet. They are very playful, outgoing, and family-raised. These energetic and friendly little pups will make the perfect traveling companion and even better, best friends!! If there are no puppies that suit your fancy, please sign up for our new litter alerts. When we have a new litter you will get an email about the new litter when it is to be posted to the website. Mini Goldendoodle via doodle. You want to choose one carefully as their breeding practices will have an impact on the temperament and health of your Mini Goldendoodle puppy. Start by looking at online sources such as Google reviews, online forums, discussion groups and social media platforms to see what other people are saying about the breeder. Did they have a good experience buying from them? To take your research a bit further, you can ask Goldendoodle organizations and clubs based in your area about their opinion of the breeder you are considering to purchase from. Many Goldendoodle clubs also have their own lists of responsible breeders so they can give you additional recommendations for good Mini Goldendoodle breeders. You may also consider visiting some dog shows and events as they are a good opportunity to meet breeders in person and see their Mini Goldendoodles. You can also ask other dog owners that are showing their Mini Goldendoodles for breeder recommendations. Finally, ask potential breeders for references and consider contacting these people to ask about their experience with the breeder. Reputable breeders always prioritize the well-being of their dogs and strive for positive reviews. You should inquire about temperament and health of the Mini Goldendoodles these people purchased. Use this information to make an informed decision. All reputable Mini Goldendoodle breeders conduct them on their breeding dogs — whether they are breeding from purebred Golden Retrievers for F1 Goldendoodles and Poodles or from Goldendoodles for later generations like F2 Goldendoodles. A stipulates the health testing requirements for Goldendoodles and if the breeder is registered with G. A, you know that the breeding dogs have undergone full health testing. A heart clearance O. Ask to see documentation of these clearances before purchasing from a Mini Goldendoodle breeder. All responsible breeders should be willing to provide any health documentation. They should also be happy to answer any questions you have about their breeding program. However, if you have the opportunity to check out the facilities you should do it. Check that the kennels are clean, that they dogs and puppies have access to fresh water and also that there is not a build up of feces or urine. Comfortable living conditions: The breeder should keep their Mini Goldendoodles, Golden Retrievers and Poodles in comfortable living conditions. They should have large, comfortable kennels or dog beds and also have a decent amount of space to exercise and socialize with other dogs. Healthy breeding dogs and puppies: If you get the opportunity to meet the parents of the Mini Goldendoodle litter you are interested in, make sure they are well-tempered and also healthy. Sometimes the mother will be quite protective of her puppies so she may show signs of aggression. If you are purchasing a puppy online and getting it delivered, ask if the breeder would be happy to video call you or send videos of their Mini Goldendoodle puppies and breeding dogs to you. Ask About Socialization Mini Goldendoodle breeders should begin the socialization process before their puppies are sold. The puppies should be exposed to a wide variety of sounds, experiences, people and places so they can adjust to their new homes and adult life. Nevertheless, they should start exposing them to sounds like household appliances, provide mental stimulation with toys and games and also encourage playtime and interactions with their littermates and family. The most common ones are: Lack of registration: If a Mini Goldendoodle breeder cannot provide registration papers or other relevant documentation, it may be a sign that they are not operating a reputable breeding program. Overbreeding: Think twice about purchasing from a Mini Goldendoodle breeder who always has puppies available or offers an excessive amount of dog breeds. This may suggest that the breeder is overly focused on profit instead of the health and wellbeing of their puppies. Lack of health checks: A reputable Mini Goldendoodle breeder will conduct health clearances on their breeding dogs to ensure they are free of genetic health issues that could be passed on. If a breeder cannot provide documentation of these health checks, it may be a sign that they are not prioritizing health. Further Reading.

Photo from: miss. Hybrid breeds are crossbreeds of two purebred dogs that are, essentially, of a different breed. Labradoodles come in several sizes, depending on their Poodle parent. You can find standard Labradoodles, micro Labradoodles, and even rare teacup Labradoodles! They also come in several dozen coat colors and patterns. Why is that? Its parents are the Labrador, which comes in three standard colors, and the Poodle, which is bred in ten coat variations. When you multiply these, you get an almost infinite number of combinations. Golden Labradoodle This is a pretty standard color for this breed. As the apricot color was the last to be recognized as a standard shade for Poodles by the AKC, it probably originated from mixing blue, silver, and dark brown genetic traits for fur pigments. The same can happen with golden Labradors, as well. This usually includes their nose, eyes, eye rims, and toenails. Sometimes, their nose can also be brown. These cute little dogs resemble teddy bears and look more like a toy than anything else. Apricot Doodles tend to become lighter as they grow older. In fact, a golden Labradoodle puppy might, later on, be confused with the cream Labradoodle since their color fades that much. Cream Labradoodle If your pooch picked up more features from their Labrador parent, some people might not even believe you when you say he is a Labradoodle! For example, you can find cream shadings in the merle Labradoodle, parti Labradoodle, or the phantom Labradoodle. They can have both dark and light noses, various eye shades, and even light toenails. However, most cream Labradoodles have fairly pinkish skin under their bright coats. In fact, the possibilities for this shade are so great that you will hardly struggle to find two same dogs in this coat color. Red Labradoodle This shade looks quite similar to the mahogany hair color in humans. Red Labradoodles are relatively rare, as the shade is inherited via recessive genes. Also, neither Poodles nor Labrador Retrievers come in red — not if the AKC acknowledges them as there are red Poodle varieties out there. Because of this, they can be quite challenging to find. While the exact fur shade is more of a very dark golden, breeders prefer calling these dogs red as they are easily distinguished from other colors. Red Labradoodles are usually bred as the offspring of a dark-colored Poodle with a cream or tan Labrador. Black Labradoodle Another standard color for Labradoodles, the black shade is typically the result of crossbreeding a black Poodle and a chocolate Labrador. Unlike Goldendoodles, Labradoodles often come in pure black color. This is because both the Poodle and the Labrador can come in dark shades, unlike the Golden Retriever that is lighter in color. Unless both parents are black or at least chocolate, it can be difficult to breed a black Labradoodle. In fact, even if both the Poodle and the Labrador are black, you might get chocolate puppies. All of this can make black fur color somewhat unpredictable. Typically, black Labradoodles come in a solid black color. This includes their paws, noses, eyes, paw pads, and all other physical attributes. There are several different shades these dogs can come in, so you can find Doodles in milk chocolate, dark chocolate, or even dark mahogany. This type of coat is usually described as a dark, red shade with a dull pecan color. Chocolate Labradoodles often have two shades mixed into one. This is because dark tones are recessive, so the second color, which is usually lighter, tends to mask these genes. You can even find multi-colored chocolate Labradoodles. Blue Labradoodle Blue, or silver Labradoodles, have a unique coat shade that is rarely found as a solid color. In fact, this hair tone is usually located in multi-colored Doodles, such as the sable, parti, or merle Labradoodles. If you have a hard time imagining this color, think of it as a washed-out black. Finding a Labradoodle that is entirely blue is almost impossible, despite this being a standard Poodle color. These dogs have two coat colors, and one of them has to be pure white. The other color can be of any shade that Labradoodles come in, but brown and apricot are the most common ones. They can also come in blue, while black is rare. The recessive gene found in Poodles is responsible for this pattern. To get a parti Labradoodle, you should breed two Doodles with this recessive gene, then hope their offspring will inherit it. If there is just one dominant gene in any of the parents, it can easily mess everything up. Because of this, parti Labradoodles tend to be quite expensive. Most breeders will conduct DNA testing to ensure a pup would have the parti patterns. As this color combination is fairly rare, there are virtually no two parti Labradoodles with the same markings. Tuxedo Labradoodle A tuxedo Labradoodle — or a black and white Labradoodle — is becoming more and more popular in recent years. These dogs have distinct features, such as a white tummy and legs, while the rest of the body is black. As the markings resemble a tuxedo, this is how this variation got its name. However, not all black and white Labradoodles are considered Tuxedo. Some Labradoodles can also have white markings on their chests, muzzle, and top of their heads. This means they are not Tuxedo. This is yet another pattern that is quite tricky to breed. To get a black and white Labradoodle, a breeder needs to crossbreed a parti Poodle with a white Labrador Retriever. This makes these Labradoodles quite rare. Sable Labradoodle Chances are this is the most unique color pattern in a Labradoodle — especially since the sable pattern is tough to predict in Labradoodle puppies. These dogs are entirely black during puppyhood. Then, as they grow older, most parts of their coat lighten, but some, such as the muzzle and their ear tips, remain black. Even if a sable Labradoodle ends up being light cream when adults, some parts of their body will remain pitch black. They are quite rare when breeding two Labradoodles, as at least one has to have a strong merle gene. The merle Labradoodle is quite different from the parti Labradoodle in that a dominant gene determines the merle pattern. This means that only one parent has to have it for it to show. However, there are many health issues related to the merle gene. Because of this, you should never breed two merle Labradoodles, as their offspring can have problems with their bone structure, be visually or hearing impaired, and develop other similar health issues. Grey Labradoodle These Labradoodles resemble their Poodle parents the most. In fact, at first glance, they look just like a medium or large-sized silver Poodle. This is yet another problematic coat type to predict in puppies since they are born looking like a chocolate Doodle. The best way to know if the puppy will grow into a grey adult is to look at his skin underneath the brown coat. If their skin is light, chances are their coat color will fade. At the same time, this is yet another shade that is usually seen in Aussiedoodles, so these two hybrid breeds can end up mixed. Phantom Labradoodle Finally, we get to the main color combination of this article — the phantom Labradoodle! This is an exceptionally rare color for a Labradoodle because for a Labradoodle to be considered a phantom, it has to have distinct colors in specific areas of its body. However, you can also find them in other colors, such as blue or a chocolate phantom. The typical color combination for a phantom Labradoodle is black and brown. However, you can find them in quite a few other colors, such as brown and silver, black and cream, or brown and cream. Phantom Labradoodles can also have white markings. All of this makes phantom Labradoodle the rarest of all coat patterns. Luckily, a phantom Labradoodle is easy to tell right after birth. Other colors, however, can be quite challenging to predict. A general rule of thumb is to pick a Labradoodle that is at least a shade darker than you expect it to be since most will fade over time. While all Doodles are adorable, there is something special about phantom Labradoodles. Whether it is their unique pattern or how seldom the pattern appears, it seems like no one can resist them. Blue merle sable pup coat Blue merle phantom tuxedo Black wolf sable pup coat Black wolf sable adult coat chocolate wolf sable puppy coat Chocolate wolf sable adult coat Coat Types Wool Wool is the tightest and curliest coat type, much like a lamb. It is springy and will stand up on its own when brushed out. Easy to maintain with bi-weekly brushing or regular trimming every weeks. A wool coat on an Australian Labradoodle is made up of thick, dense, and tightly curled hair that resembles wool. The hair is often coarse to the touch and provides excellent insulation against the cold. Wool coats are commonly found in breeds adapted to cold climates, such as the Poodle and Komondor. Wool coats can grow very long and require frequent grooming to prevent matting and to maintain their appearance. Fleece Fleece is silky soft and comes in varying degrees of curl. Spirals, loose curls, and waves are all seen in the fleece coat. It is the most commonly seen Labradoodle coat. This coat can be maintained with weekly brushing and trims times yearly. A fleece coat on a Labradoodle is typically made up of soft, wavy, and fluffy hair that resembles fleece or cotton. The hair tends to be longer than other coat types and grows in loose, elongated curls. Fleece coats are low to non-shedding and are usually hypoallergenic, making them a popular choice for people with allergies. Fleece coats require regular grooming to keep them looking their best and to prevent matting and tangling. Hair The hair coat is straight or wavy and prone to shed. This coat is rarely seen in Australian Labradoodles as advancements in genetic testing allow breeders to avoid it easily. The hair coat is typically less curly and less dense than the other coat types, and it can range in texture from straight to wavy. Hair coat Labradoodles require regular grooming, but typically shed less than other coat types. This coat is easy to maintain with regular brushing and can be less time consuming to bath and dry because it is less dense. Allergies Not all Labradoodles are Allergy and Asthma friendly. They have had an extremely high success rate so far. We recommend that if you can meet one of these beautiful dogs in person, you should check to see if you have any reactions before you decide to purchase your new puppy. We recommend that any family member suffering from dog-related allergies or asthma should look into a Wool coated labradoodle as it has the highest success rate. Great Day Labradoodles. The most common Labradoodle colors are black, cream and gold. Black Labradoodles are common finding generally one per litter. These Labradoodles represent the base price for a dog within this breed. The color of a cream Labradoodle can vary between different shades with some having red tinges through their coat. Although the color cream may vary the whole coat should be one consistent color. Apricot Labradoodles are often born with lighter colored coats that darken over time while others that are born apricot in color develop to have a light cream coat. The entire strand of fur on a golden Labradoodle should be the same color. Golden Labradoodles often fade as they grow. These dogs are neither common or rare. These Labradoodles should hold their color until adulthood. The chocolate colored Labradoodles tend to be a popular choice. Their coloring should be even. Chocolate Labradoodles often appear almost black at birth. A parchment should not have other colors mixed into the fur. Large blotches of any color on white make for an acceptable Parti colored Labradoodle. The hardest to breed and come by is the red Labradoodle. Any combination of two colors is acceptable as long as they have the distinctive markings. A black and gold phantom is among the most common. These dogs are on the rarer spectrum. These Dogs are on the rarer spectrum. While gold is a common color, the birth of a Labradoodle with a deep red coloring is as rare as they come. A red Poodle is unusual making a red Labradoodle even harder to come by. The roots of a red Labradoodle should match the tips. Red Labradoodles are hard to breed and even harder to come by. Red Labradoodle Puppy and Adult The range of Labradoodle coat colors is extensive although no matter which puppy you pick, Labradoodles make loving life long friends. Related posts:. One of the unique features of Australian Labradoodles is the wide variety of coat colors and patterns. While Labradoodle colours are interesting, we maintain that you are buying a living creature and not a coat colour. It is essential to retain the appearance of an Australian Labradoodle within the breed standard, but we feel charging for colour is not a fair practice. Van Isle Doodles looks for families whose focus is on adding a labradoodle puppy as a family member to their home. Depending on the intensity of the pigment, a red dog may appear to be a deep red color all the way to a light brown color. Cream Cream labradoodles range from almost white through to latte depending on the intensity of the pigment. This is our Bruno Mars who is a light cream color with black leathers. Black Black Labradoodles range from jet black to silver. This is Cinder Ella an example of a jet black Labradoodle. Chocolate Chocolate Australian Labradoodles range from a milk chocolate color when pigment is diluted to deep, dark chocolate when pigment is intensified. Oceana middle is a dark chocolate Labradoodle with brown leathers. Caramel Caramel ranges from a creamy color to a darker red. The brown leathers make the dog caramel rather than red. Here are some examples of our caramel dogs. Parti Labradoodless can come in any color. This is our caramel and white parti girl, Bernadette. Phantom A phantom is a solid color with tan points. The markings are similar to those found on Yorkies, Rottweilers and Dobermans. Tan points for the phantom pattern are pips above the eyes, along the side of the jaw, a band across the chest, run halfway up all four legs, on the vent and sometimes on the underside of the tail. Phantoms may be either black Labradoodles or Chocolate Labradoodles. Dexter is a chocolate phantom Labradoodle. Tri A tri colored Labradoodle is a phantom plus white. A tri Labradoodle may be black or chocolate. This is Tawnee who is a black tri. Sable A sable Labradoodle has each single hair in their coat banded by color. Each strand of hair has two colors. The tip of the strand will be either black or brown and the color at the root may be red, tan or apricot. Because the top inch or so of the strands of hair are either black or chocolate, at birth a sable Labradoodle will appear to be a black or chocolate dog. Once the strands start to grow out, the change color becomes visible. The amount of time it takes to see the second color varies from birth through to about six weeks of age. Since Labradoodles do not shed, at least as little as any dog is capable of not shedding, they do not generally grow new strands of hair. Once a sable Labradoodle has been groomed, the dark chocolate or black tips are lost and the dog then becomes red or tan in color. This is Ripple our chocolate sable parti girl. Brindle Labradoodles are not common. This puppy is a brindle Labradoodle. If you look at his feet, you will notice the stiped pattern of his color. Van Isle Labradoodles. Contact Us Labradoodle Colors Australian Labradoodle coat colors colours come in a wide variety of options. Below is a listing of the different coat colors, coloring descriptions and what to expect with their coats throughout their lifetime. Caramel Caramel colored dogs have liver noses brown. Their range of coat color can vary between light yellow to almost red in hue. The difference in a caramel dog and a chalk, cream, apricot and red dog is their nose color. Chocolate True chocolates are brown in color. Many chocolates do fade over time. Cream This color comes in a wide variety of shades but it should be creamy in appearance. The nose pigment is black. The pigment for the nose is black. Parchment This color is a creamy beige chocolate color. It has been described as a cup of coffee with a generous addition of milk. These dogs are born milk chocolate and will develop their parchment coloring over time. The nose pigment is rose. Red True reds should be rich and dark in color and the roots should be no lighter. Sadly, this coat color tends to fade over time. The nose color is to be black. This color develops over the first years. Nose pigment should be rose. Chalk This color is a white looking color. However, if you were to compare it to a true white, it would appear to be more chalk-white in color. Nose pigment is black. Black Black Labradoodles should be solid in color with no sprinklings of other colors throughout the coat. Their pigment color should be black. Silver These pups would start out black and their silver coloring develops over the first few years of their lives. The color range can be anywhere from a light pewter to a dark charcoal. Silver dogs need to have black pigmentation. The blue coat will develop over the first few years. The color should be solid once they are full grown. It should be a dark-medium smoky blue. Lavender This color has a smoky lavender chocolate coloring that almost gives off a pink to lilac appearance. These pups are born chocolate and will come into their beautiful lavender coats over the first few years. Their pigmentation should be rose in color. Parti These dogs need to be at least fifty percent white, with spots or patches of any other above solid color. Full or partial saddles are acceptable, but are not preferred. Ticking in the white of the coat is acceptable but not preferred. The nose pigment needs to match the solid color. Any combination of acceptable colors is allowed. Nose pigment should follow requirements listed above based on the solid base color. Information and photos republished with permission from Australian Labradoodle Association Save Ready for your puppy? This color can do some interesting things! It can fade into at least three distinct, official Labradoodle colors! Go figure!! I have had one of my chocolate girls turn completely Lavender on her body but not the head, then within a year, go completely back to dark chocolate. So, like a good Boy Scout, when you purchase a chocolate Labradoodle, be prepared for anything! All are lovely, but they are almost impossible to predict with any significant degree of accuracy. Once again, be prepared for anything! Chocolate Colors Now we get to the fun part; the color combinations! This is where things get interesting. Partis can come in any color, with either color nose. Some are mostly white, while some have lots of color and less white. The ones that are mostly white are called "Extreme" Partis. The variations are endless and unique, like a snowflake. The colors, such as chocolate, on a parti can change in the same ways that they would on a solid dog. Often confused with "Parti" is a dog with heavy white mismarks or a Tuxedo. White mismarks can be very small or very heavy, or anywhere in-between. The puppy is born either Black or Chocolate and immediately begins to lose the dark color, revealing anything from a cream to a red underneath! The tips of the fur may retain their dark cast, but the dog will present as somewhere on the cream-red spectrum. I have included her picture below showing her in the middle of the changing process. The genetics of color are absolutely fascinating!

They have goofy personalities, they crave all the love and attention we like to give, and their pint-sized nature make them the perfect on the go companions. Notorious for taking naps just about anywhere, these lil' comedians will keep you smiling day after day. And it doesn't take much to keep these easygoing pups entertained, too! Just give them a good plush toy —and of course some of their favorite treats—and they're one happy camper. While Frenchies are incredibly popular and lovable companions—owning one of these breeds usually means plenty of visits to the veterinarian. If you're considering adding a French bulldog to your family be warned they are a brachycephalic breed, which means they can have trouble breathing and are susceptible to gagging and regurgitation, exercise intolerance, and obesity. If you're having a bad day or just need a reason to smile, here are 18 pictures of French bulldogs snuggling, smiling, and sporting their best costumes. I need some fashion tips from this doll ASAP. Stop and Smell the Flowers I can't tell which view is more beautiful … harleyishandsome or the garden. Just kidding, Harley is one of the most beautiful Frenchies we've ever seen! If your dog loves sniffing flowers too, brush up on dog-safe plants, shrubs, and trees. Beep Beep! Get in loser, we're going shopping for treats! The Perfect Cuddle Buddies Something about dogs and cats cuddling just makes me tear up every. A little bit of water, some sun, lots of treats, and a bunch of hugs and kisses! This photo is transporting me to Disney World , and I'm totally here for it. Triceratops Frenchie Sorry for the mix-up. This is supposed to be an article about cute French bulldogs. This is clearly a Triceratops. Don't know how this photo snuck in here. Fin-tastic Run for your lives! Joy the shark will smother you with cuteness and kisses! If you love dogs dressed as sharks, you should check out these hilarious aquarium pups. Here are the best treats for training your dog , according to a professional dog trainer. Passion for Fashion Can someone get me the number for these dogs' stylist?! I need to look as fly as they do when I go out for happy hour. Party Animal loganouioui is clearly the life of the party. I mean, that face just screams "Let's dance all night long! Congrats on your epic stick score bulldogbuddha! But Allorathefrenchie is so darn cute in her little bow that we'll let her wear pink all day every day. Sweet Potato Dogs are actually a lot like sweet potatoes if you think about it. Both are squishy, the perfect size, and sweet in the best way! Not saying I'm totally jealous of a dog … but I'm jealous of a dog. You deserve all the bones and sun Dilla! There's so many adventures to be had buddy! Catching Some Rays Do not disturb, too busy tanning and being too adorable for words. Don't forget the doggy sunscreen mr. Pin19 19 Shares French Bulldogs are renowned as being one of the most friendly and sociable dog breeds on the planet. In fact, they do smile, and I am going to show you how! Do French Bulldogs smile? French Bulldogs have very wide mouths and can show a smile by opening wide with their lips curled up. Can my French Bulldog smile? Some Frenchies will have more expressions in their face than others. Some French Bulldogs can smile with a huge and obvious grin, others not so much. If you are going to buy a puppy, and really want a smiler, ask to look at photos of the mother and father if possible. Handy Hint: For first time buyers of Frenchies, read this guide to what you really need to know before taking the plunge and getting your pet. Photos of French Bulldogs smiling I took a look on Pinterest to see if I could find some of the best examples of French Bulldog smiles so you can see exactly what their adorable grins look like. Check these winning smiles out below. Image copyright FrenchieLoveNz on Instagram no longer a live account. This Frenchie has a beautiful grin and smiling eyes. Image copyright of Pixabay. Probably the most famous photo of a French Bulldog smile you will find anywhere on the Internet. Image copyright of Stockunlimited. This is our own French Bulldog smiling, his name is Claude! Image found via Reddit. This looks like a Frenchie puppy younger than 8 weeks, so only a breeder could have taken this photo. And if all else fails, you can always get your Frenchie to fake a smile! How can you tell if a Frenchie is happy if he is not smiling? Your French Bulldog might not always smile to show happiness. He wiggles his bottom he needs to with that lack of a tail. He gives you the classic puppy dog eyes look. His mouth is in a relaxed position. His ears are relaxed and not in a backwards position. His body is relaxed and not stiff. He wants to play and have fun with you. He is not exhibiting any destructive behaviour including eating his poop. He has a healthy appetite and is eating his food. He might stick his tongue out a little bit see the 4th photo in my gallery above of Claude when he was a puppy. He has a healthy and clean coat of fur. He likes to be close and lean into his owner. How you can keep your French Bulldog smiling If you want to keep a happy and health pet there are a few things you can do to help keep your Frenchie smiling. Make sure he has plenty of regular and interesting exercise. Make sure you clean his ears and skin folds clean. Make sure that he has some chewable toys to play with see some great examples. Make sure you keep him groomed with regular weekly brushing. Make sure he lives and stays indoors they are not outdoor dogs. Why do French Bulldogs smile though? Other dog breeds have far more expressive faces, and experts believe the dogs learned to smile in response to humans. Over the years of being domesticated, dogs have learned to smile in order to reflect happiness back to humans. They have also learned that they might even get a positive response such as a treat if they smile at us. To find out more, read this article on DogHealth. Handy Hint: If you think your Frenchie is sad and depressed you might want to read this guide to Frenchie depression. It contains all the signs to look out for should you pup be unhappy. All transactions are between the consumers and the breeder. Smiling French Bulldogs is not responsible for any transaction made between the parties. Money arrangements, contracts, rehoming, co-owning, shipping, meeting arrangements and any other transactions between the two parties is solely the responsibility of the consumers and the breeder. If you have issue with anything, you must take it up with the other party. If you feel a breeder has violated our community standards, you can report the breeder to us. After investigation of your complaint, we will determine a result and reply to you with our results. If we feel the breeder has breached our community standards, they will be blacklisted, and we will cut all future business with that breeder. We appreciate all feedback and encourage that everyone does good business with proper etiquette. Our transaction went smooth and everything was very professional. Bryant We are doing a co-own and they have gone above and beyond what we expected. They are amazing people and they take their business very seriously. Rosa Thank you so much! Our daughter is going to love him! Alicia My girls are in love! Thank you for being super professional.